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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: ashleyroe on January 28, 2009, 06:30:57 am
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i searched alittle and couldn't find anything.
recently me and my boyfriend have rebuilt an 84 rabbit 1.6. the head had gone out for machine work and we pretty much replaced everything else except the injection pump and bottom end.
a few days ago we had our first start, however, the car will not idle on it's own. i'll crank the car and my bf will hold the throttle slightly open and once it running it's fine. he chucks rev's and it sounds great. but the moment he lets go it stalls.
we timed the pump with the tool and everything. we did notice that it was way out. it had to be moved alot. also, the car did have a/c but we took out the compressor, condenser, and hoses. i don't know if that might have anything to do with it since there are those switches on the pump that i've noticed no other car has.
we were told to move the screw but i'm not sure if it's right to move it THAT much. i was also thinking that there still maybe air in the lines preventing it from running on it's own.
any help is appreciated because i'm new to diesels.
thanks.
ALSO: there is no alternator and pullies on the water pump at the moment, if that makes a difference. we've been using a battery charger for start ups till the rest of the parts come in. we only let the car run for 20 seconds at a time maybe twice a day after tweeking just to see if anything results.
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If the car had been sitting for some time (like years) and then you rebuilt it, it may be the case that the vanes (feed pump) in the injection pump are stuck. It only takes a little bit of moisture to make the vanes get stuck, and freeing them up usually involves disassembling the pump.
If you have free fuel lines (feed and return) and a fresh fuel filter, then I'd say play with the idle screw. If you find that you REALLY have to crank up the idle screw to get it to idle right, then turn in the MAX fuel screw a bit to bring up the RPMs a bit more quickly.
Otherwise, I'd assume your pump needs some attention.
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I believe Quantum has cover the bases for ya..
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Sounds like the throttle lever shaft needs moved.Did you take the throttle lever off the shaft?
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i searched alittle and couldn't find anything.
recently me and my boyfriend have rebuilt an 84 rabbit 1.6. the head had gone out for machine work and we pretty much replaced everything else except the injection pump and bottom end.
a few days ago we had our first start, however, the car will not idle on it's own. i'll crank the car and my bf will hold the throttle slightly open and once it running it's fine. he chucks rev's and it sounds great. but the moment he lets go it stalls.
we timed the pump with the tool and everything. we did notice that it was way out. it had to be moved alot. also, the car did have a/c but we took out the compressor, condenser, and hoses. i don't know if that might have anything to do with it since there are those switches on the pump that i've noticed no other car has.
we were told to move the screw but i'm not sure if it's right to move it THAT much. i was also thinking that there still maybe air in the lines preventing it from running on it's own.
any help is appreciated because i'm new to diesels.
thanks.
ALSO: there is no alternator and pullies on the water pump at the moment, if that makes a difference. we've been using a battery charger for start ups till the rest of the parts come in. we only let the car run for 20 seconds at a time maybe twice a day after tweeking just to see if anything results.
Don't be to quck to worry about anything yet. Just the fact that you mentioned you used the timing tool tells me you boh have a pretty good idea what you are doing. You can't really diagnose anything until you get it runing with the cooling system hooked up and let the motor warm up a little. I would suggest if you haven't already done this is to fill your definately {new} fuel filter with a 50/50 diesel- ATF mix to help loosen up and clean the injectors and pump. At least get that mix into the pump and injectors doing your 20 sec. runs the way you are doing. This also seems to help with leaks too, but for how long though I don't know. Don't start turning screws right off the bat tough, you will probably create a problem you don't have now instead. If you set the timing at 1 m/m with the cold start in the off position it should run pretty decent with the cold start {on} for a while after you start it. Also make sure you have 4 working glow-plugs. Just don't expect miracles till you get it warmed up and run it a little with some ATF in it or some other form of lube-cleaner in the fuel. I think you are on the right track though :D
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i second the need for a new fuel filter. if you've already installed one, then it is a pump related issue.
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Don't be to quck to worry about anything yet. Just the fact that you mentioned you used the timing tool tells me you boh have a pretty good idea what you are doing. You can't really diagnose anything until you get it runing with the cooling system hooked up and let the motor warm up a little. I would suggest if you haven't already done this is to fill your definately {new} fuel filter with a 50/50 diesel- ATF mix to help loosen up and clean the injectors and pump. At least get that mix into the pump and injectors doing your 20 sec. runs the way you are doing. This also seems to help with leaks too, but for how long though I don't know. Don't start turning screws right off the bat tough, you will probably create a problem you don't have now instead. If you set the timing at 1 m/m with the cold start in the off position it should run pretty decent with the cold start {on} for a while after you start it. Also make sure you have 4 working glow-plugs. Just don't expect miracles till you get it warmed up and run it a little with some ATF in it or some other form of lube-cleaner in the fuel. I think you are on the right track though :D
everything is new in the car. all new glow plugs, all new filtres of every kind (air, oil, fuel), new timing belt, tensioner.
only thing we didnt touch were injectors and the pump. the injectors were already new from the previous owner.
i know i am probably jumping to think something is wrong just because i'm impacient and want to see it run haha, and also the fact i never owned a diesel before.
we're gonna see what happens once we get the ABF serp set-up completed and let it run and work out it's problems on it's own. i'm sure it just needs to run and break in.
thank you for all your input though, it's very much appreciated.
my ABF alternator came in today so i'm just waiting on the 1.8t crank pulley with spacer and it will be all set.
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you didn't install a bigger alternator by chance did you???
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90 amp alternator which i think is what it came with stock.
EDIT: 65 is stock on non a/c cars and 90 is stock on cars with a/c.
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Don't be to quck to worry about anything yet. Just the fact that you mentioned you used the timing tool tells me you boh have a pretty good idea what you are doing. You can't really diagnose anything until you get it runing with the cooling system hooked up and let the motor warm up a little. I would suggest if you haven't already done this is to fill your definately {new} fuel filter with a 50/50 diesel- ATF mix to help loosen up and clean the injectors and pump. At least get that mix into the pump and injectors doing your 20 sec. runs the way you are doing. This also seems to help with leaks too, but for how long though I don't know. Don't start turning screws right off the bat tough, you will probably create a problem you don't have now instead. If you set the timing at 1 m/m with the cold start in the off position it should run pretty decent with the cold start {on} for a while after you start it. Also make sure you have 4 working glow-plugs. Just don't expect miracles till you get it warmed up and run it a little with some ATF in it or some other form of lube-cleaner in the fuel. I think you are on the right track though :D
everything is new in the car. all new glow plugs, all new filtres of every kind (air, oil, fuel), new timing belt, tensioner.
only thing we didnt touch were injectors and the pump. the injectors were already new from the previous owner.
i know i am probably jumping to think something is wrong just because i'm impacient and want to see it run haha, and also the fact i never owned a diesel before.
we're gonna see what happens once we get the ABF serp set-up completed and let it run and work out it's problems on it's own. i'm sure it just needs to run and break in.
thank you for all your input though, it's very much appreciated.
my ABF alternator came in today so i'm just waiting on the 1.8t crank pulley with spacer and it will be all set.
It sounds like you really did it up nice with all the new parts you put in the engine and especially thinking about the timing belt tensioner, a lot of people don't give it a second thought. Your serpentine belt setup should be nice too. I think your pump and injectors will be fine as long as they didn't get water in them and rust somwhere along the line, just run it with some good cleaner-lubricant for a couple tanks but start it off with a fuel filter full of a good mixture of Diesel-ATF or some mixture like that of your choice. I like the ATF on a first start on the pump and injectors, you can use it 100% if you want and it is relatively cheap and you can get it anywhere. There are a million different aditives for diesel and i'm sure they all work but you don't have to worry about too much ATF doing something to your seals. Fill up the filter, throw a quart in the tank and run the little beast and I bet he'll be fine in a day or so if not sooner :lol:
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i'll be sure to get some atf in there.
i did use some power service in the fuel filter and in the tank.
there's maybe two new gallons of diesel in the car but i cant put much more till i drive around because the car already had 3/4 of a tank in it.
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we were able to get the car running by moving the idle screw a TON.
and we did drive it for maybe a minute down the street.
however, we had lost most of the throttle pedal. and had absolutly no power.
so we turned the screw back and the pedal is normal now.
we have not driven it since.
we're gonna finish up the pullies just waiting on the belt to come in.
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Sounds like you might have to pull the accelerator lever and rotate it a notch.
That'll raise the idle, allow you to back the idle screw out and give you plenty of peddle travel.
This special tool should be a great help:
(http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/3104/ipumpspringholder0op.jpg)
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since i had the day off today i went down and screwed with the car alittle bit.
i still can't get it to run.
if i hold the throttle pedal down enough that the lever isn't touching the first upshift switch, the car runs. but like i said before it has no power.
i sat there and tried and tried starting it normally.
glowing, tried starting. nothing.
glowed, pulled out cold start, tried starting. nothing.
glowed, held down throttle, started.
minute i let off the throttle, it dies.
i even though maybe something with the upshift idle switch might have something to do with it. i did notice, i dont think the relay for the upshift is in.
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Two quick questions to help the diagnosis:
- what timing value did you set the pump to?
- when it is coughing away is there smoke out the exhaust pipe, and if so what colour ?
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there use to be smoke when we first got it started, lots of dark grey and white. recently when we try to start it there is only a few puffs and then its gone.
im not sure what exactly the pump is at, kevin is outside at the moment but i believe he set it to somehting like 92 or 91
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you could try to advance the pump to no more than 1.05mm. The range I believe is between .90-1.05mm depending on year, but most hear time it to .95mm. I wouldn't worry about it until you leave it idle with the radiator cap off until it is warm and do the bolt retorqe. Then you will have to have the valve cover off anyway.
PS- sorry if it offends any of you and the OP, but do you guys find it absolutely hot that this woman has so much interest in the VW diesel? I'm just saying :D
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do you guys find it absolutely hot that this woman has so much interest in the VW diesel?
yes. 8) we must learn how to harness this interest, and spread it amongst more women. only then will we achieve perfect harmony with our counterparts.
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PS- sorry if it offends any of you and the OP, but do you guys find it absolutely hot that this woman has so much interest in the VW diesel? I'm just saying :D
haha, no offense at all. :wink:
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Maybe if you could see into my head you might... :lol:
(http://tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:zLbi2kIrK_lGvM:http://www.jokechallenge.com/funny_pictures/women_fix_cars.jpg) This pic didn't display, but if you go to google images and type women mechanics there is a pic titled why women aren't mechanics that you should look at.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_opptvFBa4ck/STmaLe-7SYI/AAAAAAAAIjE/vxlOtSU1CXs/s400/Cute-car-mechanics-.jpg)
(http://www.camera-werks.com/GPetty_PinUp-onWrench.jpg)
I am just saying that this kind of thing comes into mind when I think of women working on cars...especially VWs That is why I figured some may think it offensive. I also agree now with jt's comment to infuse it on more women, but not my first idea :shock:
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Maybe if you could see into my head you might... :lol:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_opptvFBa4ck/STmaLe-7SYI/AAAAAAAAIjE/vxlOtSU1CXs/s400/Cute-car-mechanics-.jpg)
that looks more like the beginnings of a porno... :lol: but yea i'd help them anyday fixing cars 8)
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haha, well, i think i'm alittle shorter than those girls. and have alittle bit more tattooes, heh. probably the same age though, those girls look about 22 or younger.
anyways, the car is going to the dealer on tuesday or wednesday to have one of the tech's who has been there since these cars came out, work on it. well... just look at it really and go over pump timing, just to make sure. maybe he can see something we missed. the same guy 'johnny-o' also helped me when the muffler fell off my cabby till i ordered my techtonics. he welded it on so i could drive for the week while i waited for it to come in.
here's an old picture of the car i found before we started taking it apart...
interior shot because i love this interior since it's so mint.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4041.jpg)
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WOW and WOW
1st wow= Tatoos and short and young...you are playing right into the ideas in my head, PICS??? on 3nd thought better not :lol:
2nd wow=enough with the hyjack and what a beautiful interior. The car is mint. Did you put the towel on the seat to not get it dirty. Maybe that is why my car isn't so mint. Great car.
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towel was so that any parts i was leaving on the seat wouldnt get it dirty. i have clear mats on the floors now to protect my NOS vw grey floor mats!
the backseat looks like it was never ever sat in.
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Did you get it to idle yet? Also keep the pics comming of this build...and one of you working on it :lol:
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we haven't work on the engine for awhile but i have been doing small interior stuff to keep me busy till we can get it to the dealership to work on it with the lift (i need to put an oil pump in). i'm also hoping to have all my brake goodies in by then.
i painted my center console with vinyl dye, grey to match the rest of the interior and started doing other bits that faded and it looks amazing.
i will post pictures of that.
the trunk is still leaking on me despite the fact that i just sealed the trunk seal with f-ipg :( not as bad though, i have to do a test when its dry to see what i need to fix. i have a tarp on the car at the moment.
i will have video when i get it running.
here's my orginal build thread (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3980968), as you will see my plans have changed greatly. i went from wanting to paint the car porsche amethyst and putting in a black interior to keeping it the exact way it is because it grew on me.
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ou are doing better than me currently. I am not a fan of purple but that looks sweet. The oringinal color I like better and glad to hear your sticking with it. Update pics when you work on the engine and interior is done. Looks great. I hope my beater turns out this good
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4211.jpg)
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car's going to mattie volkswagen tomorrow night.
should have pictures and/or video up on wednesday.
i'll update you with our findings.
car's gonna get a full bath, and interior's gonna get a steam cleaning with my steam cleaner :)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4213.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4214.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4215.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4216.jpg)
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just got an update from kevin at work at the dealership...
pump timing is off.
didn't say how much or anything else, so we shall see!
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ALGAE in the fuel tank :shock:
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cleaned out the tank. put all new fresh diesel in.
idle issue was solved with adjustment to the pump's timing, still has power issues.
fixed the alternator light issue, the oil light issue too.
everything is in working order now :)
starts up and runs on it's own.
just some more tweaking.
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new lines, shift linkage, and injectors.
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(http://www.old-picture.com/united-states-history-1900s---1930s/pictures/automobile-mechanics.jpg)
Now these are some smokin' Women :P:P Central High-school in Washington D.C 1927
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idle issue was solved with adjustment to the pump's timing, still has power issues quote
It is a 1.6l n/a right? you will probably always have power issues :lol: .
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It is a 1.6l n/a right? you will probably always have power issues :lol: .
aww :oops: :(
haha, no i mean throttle is still messed up, the pedal is still almost at the floor. and there's little pedal travel.
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post pics... of you and the pump :lol:
With as many pump gurus are around here they will definately be able to help. I would guess that you might need to take arm off and relocate it. I have done that and the only suggestion I have is take pics so you at least know where you can go back to. Oh and try to hold onto the springs, they are sometimes nasty little guys to get back on correctly.
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they let it run in the lot for 45 mins today...
i got a call that it was smoking ALOT, of blue smoke.
tech says's it's coolant, mayeb the headgasket.
i don't believe it is cause we just put that new one in perfect.
they took it off the bucket of new fuel and they are running it off the tank of old gross fuel right now. i think it's all the crap in the tank burning off.
any opinions?
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they let it run in the lot for 45 mins today...
i got a call that it was smoking ALOT, of blue smoke.
tech says's it's coolant, mayeb the headgasket.
i don't believe it is cause we just put that new one in perfect.
they took it off the bucket of new fuel and they are running it off the tank of old gross fuel right now. i think it's all the crap in the tank burning off.
any opinions?
Blue smoke is not normal and you do not want to be driving behind a truck that produces it. Blue smoke occurs when oil is entering the combustion chamber and is burning along with the fuel. Blue smoke usual indicates a condition which should be corrected a.s.a.p. Blue smoke also smells like oil burning. Possible causes include valve seals or cracked piston rings.
taken from the FAQ here (http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=10588)
i doubt its the headgasket. its possible that the engine's timing is still off, and its blue-white smoke. my old '86 jetta with mech lifters did this on cold startup. there wasn't too much of it though. i would make sure that the engine is getting up to temperature, otherwise the swirl chambers won't be hot enough. when i installed a 160F t-stat in my 1.6TD, it would smoke quite a bit more than when i installed the 192F t-stat.
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engine's timing is perfect. it's been perfect since we did it in the garage.
just the pump was off. i think it was at liek .38 or something ridiculous.
it's set to .93 now.
it's constant smoke, and alot.
the smoking got worse the longer it ran.
i haven't seen it yet but they are finishing it up and i'm just gonna drive it.
we thought maybe it was coolant in the exhaust from when the HG blew the first time, but it would have all burned off by now.
they'ev been driving it and said it runs great and idles perfect. so who knows what's up with it.
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If coolant got into the exhaust it will take a long time to burn it out of the muffler. Blue smoke is sometimes oil burning or really rich condition. If it runs good and idles well I would just run the crap out of it and see what happens. If something major is wrong like a headgasket then it will show up either way.
Old fuel could act very badly as well. You should get rid of that and run some good into it. Keep a couple fuel filters and replace them after a tank or 3 and that should clear it up. Maybe an injector has some of the algea junk in it and sticking open a little? Seafoam and diesel purge can help as well as ATF.
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well, i saw the car run today in person.
there's not much smoke at all. i'm not sure what they were talking about.
on rev's it pumps out a cloud of blackish dark grey smoke.
the idle bounces until the car warms up and then idles fine.
it also has a fairly hard time starting.
more clues for this mistery.
should i just put in a new IP?
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If coolant got into the exhaust it will take a long time to burn it out of the muffler. Blue smoke is sometimes oil burning or really rich condition. If it runs good and idles well I would just run the crap out of it and see what happens. If something major is wrong like a headgasket then it will show up either way.
Old fuel could act very badly as well. You should get rid of that and run some good into it. Keep a couple fuel filters and replace them after a tank or 3 and that should clear it up. Maybe an injector has some of the algea junk in it and sticking open a little? Seafoam and diesel purge can help as well as ATF.
yeah i am just gonna drive it.
i think it's all teh bad fuel, but their pump to take teh fuel out at the dealer is broken.
thanks for the help.
i need to buy some more fuel filters :roll:
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well, i saw the car run today in person.
there's not much smoke at all. i'm not sure what they were talking about.
on rev's it pumps out a cloud of blackish dark grey smoke.
the idle bounces until the car warms up and then idles fine.
it also has a fairly hard time starting.
more clues for this mistery.
should i just put in a new IP?
this sounds like every NA that I have had. I would run it as long as I could and then see MR.Giles in the vendor forum for an IP if you ever need it. The more you run this the better it should get. I would run some sort of cleaner in the fuel filter when you change it and some in the tank as well until things get worked out.
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it sounds to me like the car just needs a good old fashioned italian tune up :lol:
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it sounds to me like the car just needs a good old fashioned italian tune up :lol:
:o and what's that! lol
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Pedal to the metal, and balls to the wall baby!!:twisted: :twisted:
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ok here's the video.
you can hear the idle bouncing and missing for a few moments and then straightens out.
you can also see the smoke that i'm blowing out.
i still think its just the bad fuel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/th_DSCN4245.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/?action=view¤t=DSCN4245.flv)
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From what I can hear it sounds a little noisy. Almost a metal to metal sound, but it could just be the camera. The smoke to me looks like a little unburnt fuel and the rough idle with the sound makes me think the pump may still be off. Or the glowplugs are bad and the fuel is bad.
I would recheck the pump, cam, and crank timing. If that looks good run a couple of tanks of fuel through it. Also, you could check the spray of the injectors.
That wasn't you in the car was it? :lol: I figured you looked WAY different LOL.
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Im way way late on this thread, but that video was me a month ago. Loud engine, erratic idle and very long cranking time. I know it cost a lot, but it solved my problem. I had the pump rebuilt. :(
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the engine timing is perfect.
the pump timing is perfect.
they did just put all new lines in it this morning.
so i dont think it's fully bled which is why it took a while to start.
injectors were all tested on the injection machine, they were all perfect.
PS: the exhaust is hitting under the car also!
thank you all though, as i said before i'm gonna try new fuel with power service in it, and new filters, and just drive drive drive and see how it goes.
the car does start right up everytime after once it's warm.
in that video i want to say it was only about 35 degrees out too.
and kevin just admitted to me that he hasn't been glowing it before starting! :shock:
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oh! and supposidly my cold start doesnt work either according to the diesel tech.
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Did you confirm that the timing mark on the flywheel corresponds to ACTUAL TDC?
i would definitely get this checked... and the rough starting is probably the pump sucking in air from changing the lines. if it starts like that everytime then you have an air leak, or some bad glow plugs. even with bad compression and good glow plugs, it will start wayyy quicker than that.
now if the timing is actually okay, and the valves aren't hitting the pistons, then maybe the valves need to be adjusted??? i've heard enough mech lifter engines to know that yours does sound like something is wrong, unless its the camera amplifying the noise.
one time i let my 1.6TD drive with low rpms (really lugging the engine :oops:) - enough that the oil pressure was probably really low. soon after i noticed a bad clack sort of like what you're experiencing. i checked my oil and it was indeed low so i topped it off, and then after some revving and spirited :twisted: driving, the noise went away and never came back. oh the joys of hydraulic lifter sticking :lol: one of the benefits of mech lifters- they don't stick!
sometimes stuck injectors can sound like that too... but i wonder if a bad delivery valve or pump could produce the same effect? hmmm
once everything is confirmed and you have an oil pressure gauge (and enough oil in the pan :lol:) confirm you're in the green with regards to that, then you might just need to do the ol' italiano tuneup.
ps watching that video again... the way it sounds when you turn it off... it shouldn't clack like that without fuel. (thats not diesel pinging-so not injection pump or injectors) remove an injector and use a metal anything-that-will-fit-through-that-hole-into-the-cylinder to absolutely confirm that the flywheel has the right TDC. there is also a slight chance that it is the mech valves that need adjusting, but i dunno. they could be a little too tight maybe.
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Did you confirm that the timing mark on the flywheel corresponds to ACTUAL TDC?
Did you confirm that the timing mark on the flywheel corresponds to ACTUAL TDC?
i would definitely get this checked... and the rough starting is probably the pump sucking in air from changing the lines. if it starts like that everytime then you have an air leak, or some bad glow plugs. even with bad compression and good glow plugs, it will start wayyy quicker than that.
now if the timing is actually okay, and the valves aren't hitting the pistons, then maybe the valves need to be adjusted??? i've heard enough mech lifter engines to know that yours does sound like something is wrong, unless its the camera amplifying the noise.
one time i let my 1.6TD drive with low rpms (really lugging the engine :oops:) - enough that the oil pressure was probably really low. soon after i noticed a bad clack sort of like what you're experiencing. i checked my oil and it was indeed low so i topped it off, and then after some revving and spirited :twisted: driving, the noise went away and never came back. oh the joys of hydraulic lifter sticking :lol: one of the benefits of mech lifters- they don't stick!
sometimes stuck injectors can sound like that too... but i wonder if a bad delivery valve or pump could produce the same effect? hmmm
once everything is confirmed and you have an oil pressure gauge (and enough oil in the pan :lol:) confirm you're in the green with regards to that, then you might just need to do the ol' italiano tuneup.
ps watching that video again... the way it sounds when you turn it off... it shouldn't clack like that without fuel. (thats not diesel pinging-so not injection pump or injectors) remove an injector and use a metal anything-that-will-fit-through-that-hole-into-the-cylinder to absolutely confirm that the flywheel has the right TDC. there is also a slight chance that it is the mech valves that need adjusting, but i dunno. they could be a little too tight maybe.
once again than you all for your advice and opinions.
however, i don't think i'm getting anywhere here.
i know what valves hitting pistons would sound like.
i maybe a girl, but i know what top dead center looks like.
we know for a fact that oil pressure, injectors, and the pump timing is all correct and perfect. i'm not new to cars. i'm new to diesels.
i either need a new pump or new fuel.
that clanging you here is the exhaust because it only has one hanger at the moment.
thank you again though.
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I just read the whole thread. You have done a lot of good work. I also peeped over to the Vortex thread you have. Give this poor little bunny the new Injection Pump she deserves. :wink: It been working hard for over 20 something years. ( I dont know your year, looks like an 84?)
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I just read the whole thread. You have done a lot of good work. I also peeped over to the Vortex thread you have. Give this poor little bunny the new Injection Pump she deserves. :wink: It been working hard for over 20 something years. ( I dont know your year, looks like an 84?)
yes she's an 84 :)
i dont remeber if i gave yo guys the back story on this car but it was found in a barn by my friend chris (the son of the owner of the dealership - seen in the picture towing the rab). i guess it was this old guys car and when he died his wife stuck it in the barn for years and years. then chris found it and bought it for 400 bucks. sold it to our other friend adam for 1400 who drove it back and fourth from taunton to providence for work for like 6 months until he blew the car up. it sat in his yard for a year and then i bought it for 1300.
i was hoping that the pump stayed in good condition but i think i just might have to send it out for a rebuild!
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i think i just might have to send it out for a rebuild!
Send it Up to GILES to have it Rebuilt and SUPERPUMPED!
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It sounds like the idle is too low to me, or the timing is retarded.
I haven't read your entire thread so I apologize if this has been covered, but what is the pump timing set at?
How did the diesel tech confirm that your cold start lever is not working?
I couldn't see your pump close enough in the video but being a 84 I doubt it has a fast idle; which makes it pretty hard to determine if the cold start is doing anything or not. If the cable is hooked up and the lever on the back of the pump is moving then the cold start is working. Either that or the advance piston is seized, which does happen on very, very rare occasions.
In the video, the engine was cold right? When it's warm, does it idle or run any different? Have you checked the valve clearance?
Do you have any fuel leaks at the injectors or pump? It could only be running on 3 cylinders. How violently is the engine rocking when it is at the lowest RPM it can sustain?
Get your boyfriend to hold the RPM as low as he can and crack open the injection lines one at a time. If there is no change in RPM then you have a bad injector. Just because they were good on the test stand, doesn't mean they are still good. Injectors are the most finicky thing. The smallest spec of dirt or rust can cause them to stick.
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I was hoping that it was something other than valve contact. If the pump had been previously untouched I would send it off to Giles as I stated earlier. That is if the driving it for several hundred miles with the ATF and diesel purge don't help. Like I said earlier it sounded noisy, but I didn't want to say that I knew what it was for sure. It really didn't have a sound that I recognized for sure and I am so glad that you said it was exhaust hitting the car. That is fixed with a couple rubber hangers or coat hangers and mechanics wire :D
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It sounds like the idle is too low to me, or the timing is retarded.
I haven't read your entire thread so I apologize if this has been covered, but what is the pump timing set at?
How did the diesel tech confirm that your cold start lever is not working?
I couldn't see your pump close enough in the video but being a 84 I doubt it has a fast idle; which makes it pretty hard to determine if the cold start is doing anything or not. If the cable is hooked up and the lever on the back of the pump is moving then the cold start is working. Either that or the advance piston is seized, which does happen on very, very rare occasions.
In the video, the engine was cold right? When it's warm, does it idle or run any different? Have you checked the valve clearance?
Do you have any fuel leaks at the injectors or pump? It could only be running on 3 cylinders. How violently is the engine rocking when it is at the lowest RPM it can sustain?
Get your boyfriend to hold the RPM as low as he can and crack open the injection lines one at a time. If there is no change in RPM then you have a bad injector. Just because they were good on the test stand, doesn't mean they are still good. Injectors are the most finicky thing. The smallest spec of dirt or rust can cause them to stick.
thank you very much. i will check on these points and get back to you.
pump is set .95
yes, after the car is warm it idles fine.
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yes, after the car is warm it idles fine.
Have you done a compression test with the engine cold?
If it idles fine warm I think it`s fairly safe to say your injectors or pump are not as likely to be at fault, unless it's air related.
You should hook a clear line up to the feed and return of the pump and look for air bubbles.
What grade of oil are you running?
Does it idle better with the clutch in (engine cold)?
Can you take a clear picture of your pump from the top straight down?
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well the car is fixed!
the load screw had backed out and was loose for some reason.
they turned it back in and it fixed the throttle pedal.
car starts up on first try and idles now.
the idle is still alittle low, so we just need to turn up the screw a tad and we're good to go!
might need an oil pump in the future, oil pressure is borderline when the engine is hot.
thanks for everyone's advice.
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Sweet! I didn't even think about that. I had the same problem once...I completely forgot.
Now how about the pics of you working on the car :D and a new video of the beast running.
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Sweet! I didn't even think about that. I had the same problem once...I completely forgot.
Now how about the pics of you working on the car :D and a new video of the beast running.
coming right up!
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Even SWEETER!
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i can't bring the car home till next week :(
i wanna drive it.
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for now you can add something like lucas oil stabilizer to keep the oil pressure up, until you change the oil pump.
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good idea, thanks.
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Glad to hear you got it running.
When you have the oil pan off to do the pump you should do the main bearings as well.
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Glad to hear you got it running.
When you have the oil pan off to do the pump you should do the main bearings as well.
i was planning on it, i wanna make sure that engine's in good running order. i don't want to have to worry about it again. i'll probably still send that pump out for a rebuild too around the same time.
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i don't want to have to worry about it again
Sounds like a Giles pump is in order then :)
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What is your hot idle oil pressure? What viscosity of oil are you running?
28.
15-40 rotela t.
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at the flange.
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let us know what is happening with your car. I can't wait to see the finished product.
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oh hai guys!
car is still smoking slightly at idle and alot when giving it gas. crusing speed isn't too bad.
idle screw needs to be adjusted a little higher and maybe the load screw needs to go in a tad. we really haven't touched it since it got home. i am gonna work on it this weekend. i need to put the rear bench back in.
and bees have started to decide to make the seam between the fender and door their home.
i started the car up today and let it run for a few.
more updates as i go.
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i insured the car today and im going to register it tomorrow.
take it out for some test drives and get you more video.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4275.jpg)
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my car has 15 psi hot idle at the flange. mostly because i'm running a bypass filter.
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switched wheels.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4282.jpg)
recent bay shot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/DSCN4283.jpg)
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That thing is absolutely hot. I love the serp alternator.
If you want 2 things to do that may help you I will tell you. First, and you probably already know, is to put the timing belt cover back on now that the pump is straightened out. Rocks, busted serp. belts, insulation from hood, plastic/metal clips all do bad things to the timing belt. Once the timing belt breaks it is game over...like I said you probably know that one.
The other is the air cleaner. I put a fabed cold/forced air pvc pipe into mine and it made a huge difference performance wise. You would probably use something a little nicer looking than my pvc, but if you want a little more out of it I would go that route and then turn up the fuel a little. I ran mine exactly like you have yours and didn't notice any difference other than it seemed louder in car. If you want to run a factory set up then let me know as I still have the original intake pipe for that.
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Nice looking rig. :)
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and you probably already know, is to put the timing belt cover back on now that the pump is straightened out.
If you want to run a factory set up then let me know as I still have the original intake pipe for that.
both of those things are already on there ;)
wish i had more recent picture to post, but i don't.
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hey boys,
so i've decided to go with this to put in my VDO tach which is in my center console...
(http://www.dakotadigital.com/cartimages/prd_zm_128.jpg)
i read the instruction booklet and seems fairly easy.
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little teaser, just me moving it out of the way in the driveway.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/th_DSCN4290.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/?action=view¤t=DSCN4290.flv)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/th_DSCN4292.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v727/pointyourgun2/?action=view¤t=DSCN4292.flv)
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sent an extra pump out to giles today ;D
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sent an extra pump out to giles today ;D
I'd like to see how it acts with the timing at 1.0, .95 seems low to me. None of mine ever ran decent till around 1.0 and if your cold sart cable isn't fully advancing the lever that will make it even harder yet to start. Giles will probably give a recomendation on the pump timing spec. with his pump though. I have my N/A pump on my T/D right now and its set at 1.17 and has been like that since Feb. I will go back to messing with the T/D pump again in a few weeks when I get laid off for the Winter.