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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ryanp on January 27, 2009, 02:25:09 pm
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Hi,
Where is the best place for me to buy these from? I can find the boos guages for about £15 each but the EGT are about £90. Anyone got any ideas? i have not paid that for the engine!
Ryan
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check out ebay, they have all those three for a set, I think it was 125 bucks for all three, aswell as probes and wiring and what not, I think they were called glow shift...not sure on that but search it up
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One of the cool things about this board is that it's international in scope...we have folks from all over the planet.
That being said, if your profile is included your location your question might receive answers that are as useful as possible. :wink:
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If you want accurate EGT you will need to pay for it. There are some brands that are garbage.
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Check out - http://www.egauges.com/VD2_main.asp I found them to be about the best price wise.
If you like Steward Warner then there's - http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Stewart-Warner-Gauges_c_10-3-0.html
Lastly there's always Summit, they have just about everything - http://www.summitracing.com/
I'm getting a set of ISSPRO - as you do get what you pay for.
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I like Isspro....they come factory on MANY heavy equipment diesels...
IMHO one thing not to skimp on is a pyro...
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I like Isspro....they come factory on MANY heavy equipment diesels...
IMHO one thing not to skimp on is a pyro...
Westach pyro for me. If it's good enough for aircraft, it might be good enough for my VW. :D
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Bought my EGT from a aero shop - cost about £40 with sender, fitted in the MK1 pod and looked factory.
Nice and fast response.
I'll digout details if you are in the UK.
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Airworld UK ltd
Probe £17.25
(http://shop.airworlduk.com/ekmps/shops/airworlduk/images/300855.jpg)
http://shop.airworlduk.com/thermocouple-probe-for-egt-gauge-screw-in-300855-981-p.asp
Gauge £27.44
(http://shop.airworlduk.com/ekmps/shops/airworlduk/images/300842.jpg)
http://shop.airworlduk.com/egt-gauge--round--single--2-300842-23-p.asp
Nothing to do with me. Just helpful people and good service
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prothe's gauge he sells has really quick response time but i don't know if it's accurate or not. Pretty hard to test without two probes.
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I got mine from hoyt electrics.It was like 60$ coupled with the "spruce" thermo.It is very fast reading.Itr will detect the slightest peddal movement.
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prothe's gauge he sells has really quick response time but i don't know if it's accurate or not. Pretty hard to test without two probes.
problem with his gauge is it does not start to read until 600*...kinda dumb IMHO
600*- 2000*+ is not the most desirable temps ranges for our cars...
plus those gauges are cheap china...that same company contacted me and tried to get me to sell their gauges..but I would not do it because of the weird ranges...those china pyro gauges are about $11 bucks each dealer cost :shock:
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I wouldn't get any EGT gauge that didn't read down to 200°F.
What's the issue with the range? I don't understand?
I thought I'd only need be concerned with high temps?
In use, my guage would never more much unless I was really trying - 1/4's and sprints would see it over 700C
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I wouldn't get any EGT gauge that didn't read down to 200°F.
What's the issue with the range? I don't understand?
I thought I'd only need be concerned with high temps?
In use, my guage would never more much unless I was really trying - 1/4's and sprints would see it over 700C
the reason that range is not really desirable is because you can't get a accurate "cool down" temp.... you wanna let your EGT's cool to around 300* so it does not "choke" up the turbo internals from cooking non-circulating oil...
cool down is important to me...cool down=longer life for the turbo..
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I wouldn't get any EGT gauge that didn't read down to 200°F.
What's the issue with the range? I don't understand?
I thought I'd only need be concerned with high temps?
In use, my guage would never more much unless I was really trying - 1/4's and sprints would see it over 700C
the reason that range is not really desirable is because you can't get a accurate "cool down" temp.... you wanna let your EGT's cool to around 300* so it does not "choke" up the turbo internals from cooking non-circulating oil...
cool down is important to me...cool down=longer life for the turbo..
Ditto that for me.... when I work in research at Federal Mogul, I baked engine bearings in a cup of motor oil (non-synthetic) at 450 F for a number of hours. The oil would turn a nasty black goo the same day. That's why I never shutdown my turbo diesel engines while the turbine is hot and spooled up.
I wish I had an oil / water cooled turbo like Subaru and other started using in the late 1980's. Is there such an animal for us small enough for a 1.6L ? I currently have the tiny GT15 on mine...
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I wouldn't get any EGT gauge that didn't read down to 200°F.
What's the issue with the range? I don't understand?
I thought I'd only need be concerned with high temps?
In use, my guage would never more much unless I was really trying - 1/4's and sprints would see it over 700C
the reason that range is not really desirable is because you can't get a accurate "cool down" temp.... you wanna let your EGT's cool to around 300* so it does not "choke" up the turbo internals from cooking non-circulating oil...
cool down is important to me...cool down=longer life for the turbo..
Ditto that for me.... when I work in research at Federal Mogul, I baked engine bearings in a cup of motor oil (non-synthetic) at 450 F for a number of hours. The oil would turn a nasty black goo the same day. That's why I never shutdown my turbo diesel engines while the turbine is hot and spooled up.
I wish I had an oil / water cooled turbo like Subaru and other started using in the late 1980's. Is there such an animal for us small enough for a 1.6L ? I currently have the tiny GT15 on mine...
my Audi k26 turbo is water/oilcooled :wink:
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Yes it is but you better tell them what we did to make it work.. :D
Other wise there may be people sending you nasty messages asking why the k26 they just bought wont fit their car :roll:
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Surely there is a significant hysterisis difference between gas and housing temperatures. I wouldn't base my cool down on EGT's alone. But then my old GTD ran pretty cool.
I'd always drive the last mile of a journey with 0 ish boost and idle for a while once stopped.
Would turbo coolant temperature provide a good indication of housing temps?
Also in the UK, it's rare to see a EGT fitted, even a boost controller is alien to some - maybe it's the relative cost of replacing an engine over here?
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Thanks for that, useful stuff to know.
If installing a water-cooled turbo, one would need to have a temp controlled after-run pump to prevent coolant boiling in the housing after shut-down.
I know that my GTD had this feature i.e the coolant pump circuit was connected to battery direct. But I don't know it that is the way it was from the factory. (My GTD was in a Mk1 Caddy)
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Yes it is but you better tell them what we did to make it work.. :D
Other wise there may be people sending you nasty messages asking why the k26 they just bought wont fit their car :roll:
you mean the K24 exhaust housing??
yes to run a k26 on a stock vw manifold you will need to run a K24 exhaust housing..and I also had to make a 1/2" spacer so that the k26 compressor housing would clear the factory intake manifold....
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Thanks for that, useful stuff to know.
If installing a water-cooled turbo, one would need to have a temp controlled after-run pump to prevent coolant boiling in the housing after shut-down.
I know that my GTD had this feature i.e the coolant pump circuit was connected to battery direct. But I don't know it that is the way it was from the factory. (My GTD was in a Mk1 Caddy)
not real sure if the after pump is needed from what I have seen on my car...
my coolant temp gauge is in the head and it only reads 195*-200* when I shut down at 300*EGT..(this is with a lower temp fan switch installed so I over all run slightly cooler..)
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Lot's of dieselheads get boost gauges that don't have the vacuum side of the scale, figuring that a diesel won't produce vacuum. I always get vac/boost gauges as it will alert you to an intake restriction such as a clogged air filter (or a squirrel that climbed up and made a nest in your air-cleaner).
Andrew
Me too. That's why mine is vac/boost.
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When you shut down after being fully up to normal operating temp and lift the hood, you don't hear the coolant boiling in the turbo? Perhaps the turbo is located well enough that thermosiphon takes care of it. If so, then you're lucky. If you need to add a pump in the future, then adding a pump is fairly easy.
Andrew
yeah I have not noticed any boiling.....and as you know I have been all over this engine...every time I stop the hood gets popped open and I go over it with a fine tooth comb :oops: ...my wife and son have been making fun of me saying all vw hoods automatically open every time they park..lol :lol:
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...my wife and son have been making fun of me saying all vw hoods automatically open every time they park..lol :lol:
HA!!
As I parked this morning at work I instinctively reached down and released the hood :shock:
realized what I had done and shut it as I walked in. :lol:
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this is a good thread.
my EGT reads from 200C to 1300C (392F start) but ofcourse it is often pegged at 200C. i figure for exhaust gas, 200C is pretty cool pre-turbine. having said that, the cool down feature is something i still look for - i mainly watch that before shutting down the guage has been pegged at 200C for several minutes.
i also notice that if i really get into it and see a 600C reading on the guage (1100F) that the guage takes a long time to come back to "normal" range, i guess because the manifold gets REALLY hot.
interesting the vac/boost should be mentioned - i too run a vac/boost guage, which is also electronic. with the small k14 and electronic wastegating, its possible to read a small vacuum on overrrun when the wastegate is open off throttle, and i also notice the guage reads below 0 when i got up the mountains (lower air pressure)...
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When you shut down after being fully up to normal operating temp and lift the hood, you don't hear the coolant boiling in the turbo? Perhaps the turbo is located well enough that thermosiphon takes care of it. If so, then you're lucky. If you need to add a pump in the future, then adding a pump is fairly easy.
Andrew
ok so I wanted to see if I could get the turbo hot enough to boil the coolant on shut down so I took the car for a GOOD burn around town and on the freeway to make sure EVERY thing was nice and hot....I still cooled the turbo EGT's to just under 300*....when I shut the car off and popped the hood I could not hear any boiling at first...but when I stuck my ear RIGHT up next to the turbo housing I could here some boiling going on.... :cry:
good call Andrew!!
guess I'm gonna have to look into a after pump......
got any links??
thanks for bringing this up again...
does it damage coolant if it boils?? if the coolant is not damaged like oil is when it is over heated then I may not even worry about it...but if it's gonna ruin my coolant from boiling it...then I'm gonna add a pump....
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Mark, Pull one off a car at the PNP.
The Audi has one as do a few VW's.
I think if you look through your Bentley you will find some mention of it on a few cars maybe?
I think I saw mention of it in the one I have for mk3's
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Yeah, that's the sad thing. Most of the parts in the yards will never get used and a big reason for that is the ridiculous prices they charge.
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Not to go too far OT, but I'm with Andrew. It also applies to stuff on Vortex - I've saved some money, but half the time when I get the part there's some minor production difference that I didn't know about, rendering it useless to me. Or the condition isn't up to my standards, but it isn't the sort of thing that I can argue with the seller about - one does have to allow for subjectivity...
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Yes, they are available in the junkyard. The nearest junkyard is 45 minutes away from my house. It's funny, it's gotten to the point that few things are worth the trip. By the time I've loaded up the tools, driven there, found out that they might have what I need in the far back corner, searched, rolled around in the dirt, dropped dirt and squirted coolant in my face, soaked my shirt, and paid them 1/3 what it costs new, I wonder on the trip home about my priorities... When the Fedex guy knocks on the door with the new part I always seem to smile. :D YMMV.
Andrew
Most of the boen yards here in Michigan are like that too, but here are a few exceptions. You negotiate up from on price. Usually $20 for any big part, and $5 or $10 for small parts. They don't care what it is - if you can carry it and they can stay in the office, that's the price.
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I don't recall ever seeing a after-run pump on any of the RX7's I've ever worked on. They have water cooled turbos, and talk about high EGT's... Just FYI.