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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: lildevil on December 29, 2008, 09:24:01 am
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alright boys, I was curisin the good ol German auto parts, and i seen there are two different fuel filters, ones preheated(which I have) and ones not(which I would like) for a couple reasons. I got air bubbles coming out of everywhere, and I'm going to shave my engine bay, so less lines the better. My question is, how can I do this. Do I need to cap off the last injector for the return line, like the first? or do I leave the return line, and cap off it going to the fuel filter. I'll try to get a picture, much easyer sorry if ive confused anyone..I'm a bit confused myself lol
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b116/AbsentG/td1.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b116/AbsentG/Td.jpg)
oh and dont mind my clean engine bay
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Simply take the #1 in your picture and delete that plastic piece with a straight through pipe. Then rejoin the 2 hoses.
You need to keep a return and a feed at the pump, and the injectors also need to return lines
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alright so what your saying is to skip it from going into the fuel filter, So could i just delete that clear fuel line return and drag the #1(which is return)under my intake and buy another piece of the black line and plug it onto my pump. Would you by chance know what size it is? I want to lose and tuck as much as I can, thanks a bunch man
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(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/td1_annotated.jpg)
How cold is it where you live ?? The preheat filter is the superior design....assuming the O-ring is in good condition.... :wink:
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oh boy...it gets -30ish sometims -40 or more. Does the preheated filter really make that much of a difference when running/warmed up?
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I've had vehicles with both in Edmonton where we can see -35C... the engine with the pre-heat filter was much more drivable while warming up.... particularly for city driving, short hops to work, etc. Less surging, sputttering, etc... makes sense when you think about how thick cold diesel is.
My personal opinion: a cold diesel needs all the help it can get. Prewarmed fuel sounds good to me.... particularly given how little you actually save in plumbing by deleting it.
BTW, I'd be cautious about deleting the clear lines in their entirety as you shave the bay... a small section of clear line at both the inlet and outlet of the pump are infinitely useful for troubleshooting. :wink:
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alright I will keep it how it is, till summer anyways, I'm sucking in alot of air bubbles, that line is pretty much full of air, maybe 1/4 full of fuel, I will buy some new orings hopefully that will help, that piece does move around alot...thanks budd
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Acuatly i have another question for you lovely folks, when I opend my water tap at the bottom, nothing came out, it made a suction noise like it was suckin in air, NOthing came out. I would think that is a problem, should i change the filter? or is something casing it?
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Start by taking your gas cap off and running the car and see if that clears up some/all of the bubbles.
If not, then delete the water separator under the car.
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what would i need to delete the water seperator under the car? im going to the store to get some stuff, Id be smart to get it now, as my cars in pieces as is, thanks
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First and foremost, there will be an in-line anti-drainback valve. It's really delicate and the stealership charges big for it but it's not worth saving in the end...get a new one. The stress put on it by taking off the fuel lines will make it feel like seperating a couple weeks later when you're in the middle of nowhere....You'll want some extra fuel line to replace the missing inches the water separator is taking up right now; and some dual male 'barbs to join them (don't forget the hose clamps, and don't use cheapies.
I'd recommend leaving in the heated filter if you're living in the Lakehead. I'm from farther north and every time I go visit in the winter....well, it wouldn't even be worth trying to start her without it.
Cheers,
Andy
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Well I just pulled the return lines(preheat) and there was no Oring or any gasket, I cant remember if there was one when i swaped the filter, Anyone know what kind of O ring i need?