VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Jettage1 on November 25, 2008, 05:50:14 pm
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Discovered that the IP on my '92 EcoDiesel seems to have recently started leaking. Top and front side are clean and dry. Underside is wet, and the side of the block & hoses below also show moisture. It isn't pouring out, but there are a number of drips on the floor.
Based on what I can see, it looks like there's moisture on the back side (next to the block) where the fast idle lever assembly is. Perhaps that's leaking somehow.
So what now? Is this a common thing? Easy fix, or am I looking at an IP rebuild while I'm at it? :( Crap.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
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Check the FAQ. Most people can reseal that one themselves. Andrew also offers a complete reseal service, check the vendors section. You will need to remove the pump either way.
You can try filling the pump with ATF and letting it sit for 48 hours. That usually will "fix" the leak for a month or two while you come up with a better plan.
Now is the perfect time to find a TD pump (or use your current pump) and have Giles build you a super pump
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Thanks Tyler. I did check the FAQ, but the page that the resealing link goes to appears to have dropped the resealing info. (either that or I'm an idiot - a strong possibility...)
I'll run a search on "reseal" and also check out the vendor section. I thought about the pump upgrade, but have heard that a new pump ain't chump change...
I'm taking the car in for a tranny rebuild next week (my 020 AVX has some questionable sychros) and not sure I can stomach two big tickets at once.
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Step one, don't rebuild that gear box. It's a horrible box. Get something with decent gears and start from there. You'll save a lot of wear and tear on your motor, and also money on diesel.
If you are getting one rebuilt, I would get broke ( www.brokevw.com ) to do it
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Oh. I hadn't run across much on the 020 AVX... What makes you say it's bad, and what would you consider to be a good one?
(not questioning your opinion - trying to learn here & see if I need to change directions...)
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Go to www.scirocco.org/gears and punch in some numbers and you'll see it's not very good. a 4S, ACN (I think) and a few others are nice direct swaps.
Also, thanks for the tip on the bad link. I fixed it and if you recheck the FAQ, it should lead you to the right page now
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Thanks for fixing the link - much better! Also I should have run a search before - I know better! Just frustrated with the stooopid car at the moment. I'll check out the tranny link you posted too.
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Going a bit OT here, but I did go to the tranny link. Looks like the main difference between the ones you suggested and the AVX is that the AVX has a final drive of 4.25 and the others are 3.94. Based on the calculator it means a difference of about 223 rpm at 65 mph.
Interesting...
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Yeah exactly.
There are worse transmissions out there, but if you are going to be spending money on one, I wouldn't chose the AVX
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the ACN that Tyler mentioned has a 3.67 final.
Using that figure your looking at going 62mph @ 3000 rpm with the 4.27 vs 72mph @ 3000 rpm with the 3.67
That's more like 500 rpm.
4.27 is WAY to low and in my opinion so is 3.94
If you must have a 3.94 at least get a .71 5th so you can drive it on the open road.
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Back OT.
On your pump, they really are not that tough to reseal but as Tyler mentioned Andrew can reseal it for ya so all you would have to do is R&R it.
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Thanks for all of the advice guys.
On the pump, I'm pondering my time vs money pain threshold & will figure something out. I'll either fix the one seal myself or send to Andrew. I can't really afford Giles right now, but IF I were to consider moving to a stock, non-ECO IP, what one would you recommend, and what might I expect to pay for a known working one? Any known reliable sources?
On the MTX, my mistake on the ACN - my eyes jumped a row... I guess the tradeoff is between lower highway rpm on the units you recommended, and a bit quicker accel with the high FD ratio on my current AVX. Am I right or did I miss something else?
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On the MTX, my mistake on the ACN - my eyes jumped a row... I guess the tradeoff is between lower highway rpm on the units you recommended, and a bit quicker accel with the high FD ratio on my current AVX. Am I right or did I miss something else?
Exactly correct
Used pumps range from 50-350 from what I've seen. Remember that the seals in a used pump are probably just as old as what are in yours now.
Get a NA or a TD pump, both would be an upgrade over what you have now.
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...each answer leads to more questions, of course. :roll:
For a basically stock motor, any functional diff btwn NA & TD pumps?
...And what other things would I need to change on my ECO to use either of them?
I understand about the old seals. Guess I was thinking if I was going to reseal something, maybe might as well be a better performing pump...
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Thanks Andrew - that's very helpful.
Regarding the cat - that's how one thing leads to another! :wink: You know - new pump, new 2.5" exhaust, etc.... Next thing you know you're into Real Money :lol:
I might nurse my existing pump along until I can find a good TD pump to swap in... Then do the pump and change the timing belt all at one swell foop. (for most people its a fell swoop, but for me it's usually the former...)
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FWIW, an update...
Swell foop has been completed: new Giles-blessed IP, new timing belt, new injectors, new water pump, many miscellaneous bolts anti-seized, and one Eco (finally) back on the road!
I do want to double check my timing adjustment, and possibly adjust the max fuel. I set timing around 95 but it does seem a bit rattly at idle. Also a bit too much black smoke under throttle... Still as someone else has said, it's clack-a-lack-tastic! Speedier too! (need a boost gauge now)
Oh, need to have the muffler shop nix the cat... hopefully next week. Am going to inquire about a 2.5" system, but given the wallet convulsions incurred by all of the above, a simple cat-splice may win the day.
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Going a bit OT here, but I did go to the tranny link. Looks like the main difference between the ones you suggested and the AVX is that the AVX has a final drive of 4.25 and the others are 3.94. Based on the calculator it means a difference of about 223 rpm at 65 mph.
Interesting...
Don't forget about your wheel and tire sizes when comparing these ratios depnding on what you have or might want to get heigth wise :)
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Keep track of how much you move the fuel screw. Once you get the free flowing exhaust on there you will want to turn it back up.
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Backed it off 1/8 turn tonight. We'll see how the smoke is tomorrow.
Engine still sounds more rattly than before, but I double checked the timing and it's 95 - 96. I think I have the timing belt tension about right (45 deg. twist max), and the car starts fine. So unless there's something I'm really missing here, it's gotta be okay. Anything other than timing I should be worried about here?
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Cam and crank are spot on?
Were they before?
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Cam and crank should be fine - new timing belt was installed with crank at TDC and cam locked with the flat tool. I did confirm that the lobes on #1 were pointing upward. Belt was tensioned with cam pulley loosened.
IIRC, the crank was just slightly off of TDC when I initially locked the cam and took things apart. I chalked that up to prior misadjustment and did my best to "zero" everything correctly on the reinstallation.
This is the only one I've done, so have no "depth of experience" to draw upon here...
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As long as you turned the engine over and then rechecked everything you should be good to go.
I know I had a rabbit and when I bought it the cam was out about 1/2 a tooth. It wasn't a huge difference in sound or performance when I retimed it but it was definitely different.
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Thanks Tyler. That could help explain things. I didn't consider that my changing the timing from before would change how it "sounds"... Duh.
I also need to figure out how to install a larger air cleaner & get rid of the cat. Then I can try to dial in the max fuel & "smoke" screws a bit better.