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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Smokey Eddy on November 22, 2008, 06:11:27 pm
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I just honed and re-ringed my pistons.
Putting them back in with a friend we found it was very difficult to turn the crank with a breaker bar (that 19mm bolt on the end of the crank) with just one of the pistons in. But it was do-able.
we did number 2 and 3 and now come time to get # four in it's impossible to turn the crank...
Niether of us are strong enough to do it.
we tried using the starter to do it, it can't do it.
We know we could tow the car very slowly to get the crank in the right possition to get the last piston in there but I'm a little scared that i've done something horribly wrong.
New bearings are in place and everything is very well oiled. I got covered in oil lying under the car as my friend get the cylinder walls oiled up for the pistons and i did so oiling the bearings and the con rod and crank.
Any ideas? experiences?
My course of action for tomorrow is going to be to drag the car backwards in reverse gear slowly until the piston can get onto the crank, then once it's on torque all the nuts down and slowly pull it in 5th periodically slapping oil on everything including down the cylinders.
the whole block is bare. It's just the block & crank. The head is off obviously and the oil pan is off ect.
What should i do? :(
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I would recommend not pulling the car around in gear
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i just tried to get the three con rod caps OFF and i can't get them off now ....
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my guess is carbon deposites behind the rings .
the next thing i'd look at , with used pistons , the old rings can sometimes leave a bit of a burr or ledge where they wear on the piston .
install new rings without at least smoothing out the ledge / burr and the new rings want to sit where the old rings used to sit , only problem is the face of the new rigs isn't worn , and is forced into the cylinder causing binding .
btw when you take the motor apart again , wash the pistons and rings in laquer thinner , blow them off and asemble them dry . same goes for the cylinders , wipe them down removing all the oil .
doing this will cause the rings to properly seat much easier and faster , and elimating glazing the cylinder walls .
things will only be dry for a few seconds after the initial fire up .
btw make sure you use asembly oil on the bearings .
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i just tried to get the three con rod caps OFF and i can't get them off now ....
did you put the bearing caps on the right way , both rods and mains ?
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well i was doing it with my friend and i think what he calls cylinder #1 i call #4.
So the caps may be on backwards.
I did wash everything in laquer thinner but i know to use oil when putting pistons in to prevent breaking them.
I got the caps off with vice grips :roll:
I'll try putting the caps on in the reverse order and see if it turns easier. I took cap #4 and put it on the piston that is in the #1 possition and it turned much more pleasantly.
Is there a big problem to having the pistons back to front? 4 is where 1 used to be
2 and 3 are reversed and so on.
ps. im using conventional oil for proper ring seating instead of using synthetic.
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phew! my arms are getting sore!
I just reveresed the order of all the rod caps and the number "95" is upside down when reading them off of the rod caps from under the car with my legs sticking out the front.
can anyone check that that is the way they should be?
it is easy as pie to turn with the nuts loose on the caps but as soon as i get them ratchet tight (so the ratchet clicks) its near impossible to turn.
im going to try putting all the rod caps so that "95" is the right way up reading it with me legs out the car.
If that doesn't work then i'll reverse the order of the caps to the way they were the first time i thought they were correct.
If anyone can give me a way of telling what way they are supposed to be it would save me a lot of trouble. If not i'll keep going at it!!!!
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the notches on the bearings go on the same side .
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Oooooooooooooo
okay Thanks!!!
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That's why im asking here.
It is VERY hard to turn with the con rod caps hand tight.
I have to use a breaker bar to turn it and its exhausting.
Why is it like this???
All i did is put the pistons in. One piston in particular is hard to turn the others, how ever are still difficult, are not quite so as the last one i put in.
I know something is wrong and im asking wtf is wrong!!!
I'm trying to give as many details as i can!
honed, new rings, new bearings. Thats IT. crank is easy to turn by its self. one piston was hard to put in i had to mallet it down with a piece of wood. Should i take the last one out? could a ring be broken?
I've forced it through probably 6 revolutions (of the crank) and i can't see any lines from broken rings. They seal exceptionally well. I put oil in the cylinder to ease the movement and none of it (well almost none) as gone past the rings. Since making sure all the caps were the right way around it has gotten easier to turn but i still have to use a breaker bar.
There is one section of the rotation that is particularily difficult. a very small amount. Maybe 15 degrees of the whole revolution is very difficult.
From what i can tell #3 and #2 are just past the bottom of the stroke and are just starting to go back up at that point.
when all 4 are the closest to the head it is the easier to turn and VERY easy to turn at that. I always smash my nuckles when im pushing hard for the hard point and it zips to the easy part and i smash my hands on the A arm.
ps. if you have the pistons back to front from what they were can you have issues with that even though i changed the bearings on the con rods?
could that be causing my problems? (i don't see how though, the rings are what touch the cylinders not the pistons them selves.
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Ahhh
Thank you Andrew.
We'll, they are oriented correctly in the sense that they are facing the right way in regards to the rod. Thanks to burnt servo.
They could be however
cap 1 with rod 4
cap 2 with rod 3
cap 3 with rod 2
cap 4 with rod 1
So i'll switch those around again now that they are oriented correctly.
Thanks so much for the input!
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The rods and rod caps should be numbered/marked somehow to make sure you can't mix them up, either numbered 1,2, 3, 4 or maybe dots..... In the future, never more than one cap off a rod at a time........
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100X as per the previous suggestions above... 99 times out of 100 a tight bottom end means one or more main or rod caps got interchanged...
Mark'em with a punch before you remove 'em... same with the camshaft BTW :wink:
Another thought is that you've got the wrong bearings and/or one or more is mis-labeled etc... Plastigauge will help sort it out if need be.
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What is your piston ring end gap?
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The rods and rod caps should be numbered/marked somehow to make sure you can't mix them up, either numbered 1,2, 3, 4 or maybe dots..... In the future, never more than one cap off a rod at a time........
Yeah i thought they were marked. You can see a trace of many paint? but it doesn't tell me anything. They are either backwards or the right way right now. I kept them in order i just don't know now which end is 1 or 4. Know what i mean?
I really hope the bearings aren't the wrong ones. They have oil holes where the old one's didn't. there are holes in the crank for oil so i didn't think they were wrong. I bought them as bearings for MY engine...
anyone know if the bearings with holes aren't the same thickness as ones without? If i had digital calipers i would check. I don't have plastigauge either i guess i could buy some...
But i'll swap the caps around right now and see if that does it. IF it's still impossible to turn with he nuts tight then I guess i got the wrong bearings... (totally sucks if that's the case)
Don't know if this link will work but this is where i got them. I got the "Standard" ones...
http://catalog.worldpac.com/marks/wizard.jsp?header=http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/cdnheader.txt&footer=http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/cdnfooter.txt&partner=marks&clientid=importcarpartscanada.ca&baseurl=http://www.importcarpartscanada.ca/&cookieid=0691641042IO0W2J7Y&year=1990&make=VW&model=JET-D-001&category=All&part=Rod+Bearing+Set
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What is your piston ring end gap?
What do you mean by that?
what is the gap in the rings when they are compressed?
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If you mean when they are compressed uhhh 5mm? i'm not sure i didn't really measure it.
My friend broke a small piece off the oil ring on one of them :evil: being too rough putting them into the block while i lined up the rods with the crank. but it wasn't messed up or anything the gap on that one ring is like 15mm compressed.
I don't think i know what you're refering to though
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100X as per the previous suggestions above... 99 times out of 100 a tight bottom end means one or more main or rod caps got interchanged..
could that really make it impossible to turn though when the caps are tight?
I really think now that i just got the wrong bearings :cry:
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Those are the right bearings for your engine... chances are they are *not* the issue.
The bearing caps are line-bored so very very specific to each other... even one in the wrong orientation or order will completely bind up the engine. If you consider the fine bearing clearances at work (thousandths of an inch) here you can see how that can be the case.
At this point you may want to take a break and re-group ? I just saw the part about needing to mallet one piston in place and a broken piece of oil ring... and you're definitely gonna want to read up on "ring gap" and the use of Plastigage to confirm bearing clearance.
If 'twere my engine I'd give serious thought to pulling the tough piston out to see why it was so tough... no mallet should be required for engine assembly. I've seen several broken rings in my day... none of which left any visible scratches on the walls during testing. :wink:
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They are either backwards or the right way right now. I kept them in order i just don't know now which end is 1 or 4. Know what i mean?
as i mentioned beofe the notches in the bearing shells go together , where the bearings sit in the block and the cap , or rod and rod cap , also have a spot for the notch . so just put the notches together .
with the pistons make sure they are in the right direction .
the mains will be numbered , can't recall what numbers are on the rod bearings , but many times they are marked at the factory ( look for punch marks on the side , near the parting line of the cap and rod , the marks will be the same for a rod and cap that belong together ) .
btw #1 cylinder is ALWAYS the front of the engine , #4 is always the rear of the engine , and the rear of the engine is always hooked up to the transmission .
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btw #1 cylinder is ALWAYS the front of the engine , #4 is always the rear of the engine , and the rear of the engine is always hooked up to the transmission
Yeah that's how i look at it. My friend i think looks at it backwards to that.
Just some mis-communication.
OK! so i see the notches in the caps and i guess i'll take out piston number 4. He was a stubborn bastard.
I got "Standard" rings not over bore or anything. I used a ball hone so the walls are a little rough for the rings. You can push the other three in by hand. i just found it easier to use a piece of wood and tap it in. The fourth was an issue so i'll take it out.
thanks so much guys.
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augh...
ok so i took them all out. they all pushed right out the block easily except for the stubborn one. it seemed to be stuck to the crank? i had to tap it out with a 1/4 drive extention and a finishing hammer (very lightly tapped it out) to get it to leave the crank then it pushed out fairly easily.
I've been staring at the rods and caps for about 20 minutes now and i just CANT see any marks that would match them up. I see the audi symbol, "BER", "80" and notches but all the notches are the same!!! I guess i'll have to just try all the different combinations. so thats like 4! (factorial) thats a lot of combinations, 24 actually. I really want to avoid doing that. :roll:
perhaps i can match machining marks? :( Am i just an idiot? are there markings that are supposed to make this easier?
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My rods don't appear to have any sort of distinguishing marks. :( All they have is the number 114 stamped onto the bottom of the cap.
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yeah mine say 95...
how do you go about this? i'm really screwed if i can't match them up because i can't take the crank out.
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The mains bearing caps sometimes have numbers cast into 'em... dunno that I've ever actually seen them however... I've always punched my own dots.
I've never seen any distinguishing marks on the rods.
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im getting really exhausted from coming out from under the car and holding my arms up and doing up nuts and undoing them.. what a work out. and trying to turn the engine over.
i figured i could at least have 1 cap on correctly so i loosened all nuts cap nuts off. then tightened one at a time and tried to turn it over. If any of the nuts are just ratchet tight it's near impossible to turn over.
while under the car i have to put both feet on the wall and do a squatting motion with both hands on the end of a breaker bar to turn it over with just one of the con rods on snug (not even torqued).
I guess i'll take all the pistons out AGAIN and try and do it one at a time.
That would work. 1 piston in and just go through the caps until one works...
and if that doesn't work i'll try putting my old bearings in and seeing if that does anything.
when you change bearings is it a MUST that you change the mains at the same time?
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You know that the con rod bolts are stretch bolts right?
I think you should buy some plastigage so you know what's going on. They have have sent you oversized bearings.
What do the insides of the bearings look like?
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pull the #1 main upper ( the one that is in the block ) it will be worn out if the rings are worn to the point of needing replacement .
WAIT don't do that ..... it can be a *** to get out , then back in again .
changing the #3 upper main in the car is a *** too
next time you attempt this , actually pull the motor out of the car , it will make it much easier
also vw updated the oiling system in it's diesels with a bigger oil pump , and a full groove bearing on #4 main .
something to try , get a set of calipers and measure the thickness of the old bearings , and compare them to the new ones .... the size should be almost identical.
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aw frick i didn't know they were stretch bolts.....
seriously? is that what has been the problem all along...
they have splines in them though how would you change them? knock the new ones back in excactly where the splines are?
the insides of the new ones look grey, glazed with something. since being in there and turned they have some shiny spots.
frick how much are con rod bolts going to set me back. Im runing out of cash here...
guess i'll go buy new bolts... augh
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i've reused the rod bolts on more than a few engines . and several recent vw diesels , with no worries . that also includes my car which just recently spent close to 8 hours over 4000rpm with no problems .
as long as they give a normal torque value , like 50 inch pounds , it can be reused .
if the torque value is like 50 foot pounds + 3/4 of a turn , then it is a true stretch bolt anbd can't be reused .
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well i have no idea what they were supposed to be :P i took them off! they were relatively easy to take off unlike torque to yield head bolts.
phew, don't need new ones.
That still doesn't solve my issue though. I guess next i'll try 1 cap at a time on 1 piston and work my way down from there and if that doesn't work use the old bearings as stupid as that sounds...
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you know the little notches on the bearings ......
are they all properly lined up into the notches in the rod and rod cap ?
if not that will cause your binding problem .
other wise your bearing shell might be the wrong size ( meaning too thick ) .
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Yes they are lined up properly. but i can't match the caps to the rods. There aren't any defining marks. I tried to line them up based on wear marks.
now im going to do 1 piston at a time 1 cap at a time until it works and if it never works then i'm going to measure (or try to) the thickness with some feeler gauges i have...
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con rod cap to con rod .....22 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Where are the shiny spots exactly?
Those are the areas that are rubbing.
Any scoring on the rod journals?
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are there markings that are supposed to make this easier?
Yup.... the ones you make *before* you pull it apart !!
Ah well... you'll get 'er... one piston at a time will work too.
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I'll up load some pictures at as high quality as i can to show the wear.
my old bearings read on them...
8451
02-87
VW (audi symbol)
069 701A
my new bearings say
BB 494
and on the other side (the original bearing doesn't have anything on this side but this one does)
a box with a half circle cut out (so like a bearing symbol i guess?) 6 05
025
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC04972.jpg)
wow that is blurry i'll try and take clearer ones. (there we go :) )
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well, i have concluded that i have no faith left in humanity. I was sent the wrong bearings.
No combination of caps worked on 1 piston in any orientation.
I can only see a slight hint of copper on 2 of my old bearings, should i re-use them? ... :?
bah well i did.
i made sure to put the ones with little to no wear with the ones with the most wear.
that may have been a really dumb idea but it made sense in my head.
it spins freely now with old bearings.
my bearing/ring job is now just a ring job... sounds dirty :wink: .
but i assure you it's not! lots of solvent!
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This is most strange.
I received the right part no. but it won't fit?
They are 0.25 bearings...
I don't know what my old ones are supposed to be...
Why won't they work?
the old bearings work fine back in place.
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(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/bearings.jpg)
odd, according to this the bearings i took out are supposed to have oil holes... and they don't ...
and are the same size as the new ones i got. (0.25mm)
The bearings i got are 0.25mm (says on the box) and the right part no. to work in my engine...
But they don't work? what is wrong here... My old bearings work fine but the new ones in the same orientation don't work...
this is really aggravating.
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from what i can tell none of the new bearings in any combination work...
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i seriously think you have stretch bolts for the con rods... they're not cheap either. dealer wants about $4-8 each!!! for the amount of times you've removed the caps, i'd say that ARP hardware would be very economical in your situation :lol:
i guess let this be a lesson to you... always keep the parts sorted in order of which rod/piston/etc. and the orientation of that part as well!
bummer about getting the wrong parts though... compare the new and the old side by side with a magnifying lens or even a caliper if you have one.
people must know where one can get cheaper con rod bolts out there!!! there was a thread a while back where someone had the rod cap come loose and punch a hole through the block... i wouldn't want that to happen to you man!!
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SO did you replace the broken oil ring?
You getting me EXTREMELY concerned here.
Do you have a Bentley? Are you reading it?
There are VERY specific steps required when taking apart and assembling a engine.
Did you not check the "New" bearings when you received them to make sure the matched the #'s on the old ones? As in "STD" or ".010" etc etc?
Your freaking me out Ed..
I don't feel to bad about you reusing your bearings as much as I would like to see you with new ones but that broken oil ring is makin me bug for some reason.
Not trying to be harsh Ed none of us want to see you go through all this work only to have problems in the near future as I'm sure you don't either. So my freaking out is a good thing :)
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Thanks guys i really do appreciate it.
about the oil ring, my shop teach. gave me a shatty ring comp. to use along with one he said not to use. I ended up using the one he said not to and it worked great. the oil ring lost like less than 1cm of length so i'm not too worried about it.
I was actually sent the wrong bearings. i just emailed the company a second time. I doubt i can get anything back or a replacement because i put them in and they have wear marks now so they aren't really new anymore.
About the con rods, i never actually torqued them to any where near spec just until i couldnt turn them with my fingers and i did like a 1/4 turn with a ratchet and the crank bound tight stuck. So, I'm not too too worried and i don't intend on pushing the RPM band. I also don't have the coin for ARP con rod bolts.
at this rate i won't be able to insure it for at least a month and i dunno if my brothers are going to get the best christmas presents if you know what i mean :(
no i haven't replaced the broken oil ring but i may pop by AVR and see if they can sell me just 1 singe oil ring for less than $1,000,000
no i don't have a bentley (why do you think i post like a f**k**g maniac on here?)
I just checked the box and i was sent the wrong bearings.
BELIEVE ME, i'm kicking my self way harder than you could possibly think i am.
I just spent TWO days ****ing around with those bearings only to look at the box and realize they ARE NOT standard bearings.
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Ed, I dont know why you shop at AVR ? if I need anything I would go to the Lordco Machine shop in abby and talk to the guy runnin the show there, I cant remember his name but I trust him, he is a master engine rebuilder that has done it all...and has helped me out many times in the past you would be surprized in his prices compared to those AVR idiots !!!!
Dan
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I got to AVR for things that other places, like lordco, would have to order. Like a 1 hole metal aaz head gasket. AVR is cheaper for things like that.
But for most other things they are on par with wakefield sperling and outrageoudly over prices for other things.
I'm not looking for an engine builder, im busy ruining mine my self. I shopped online and spent probably 45% of what i would have normally if i went through lordco or wakefield sperling.
I haven't actually bought anything from Lordco but just calling for price checks they seem to be the same as wakefield.
And sometimes, quite often, they [AVR] do have good advice/insight. I'm sure at least one of them are on this forum.
VW vortex for sure anyways.
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1cm is a lot for the oil control ring... even a few mm's is enough to give you some pretty nasty blowby under boost.
the bentley would be a great investment for you. be sure to check out how much new con rod bolts are as they would be a good idea. i wouldn't trust the old ones at this stage. i think its 22 ft/lbs & 1/4 turn. do the turn in one fluid motion.
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Ok.
I'll pick up a new oil ring and con rod bolts.
Thanks guys.
I probably have the rings mixed up. It's the ring that has the spring in it.
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re-use your old con rod bolts first, to make sure that the bearings move freely and the crank turns good. once you're satisfied that its in ok, install the new con rod bolts and enjoy!!! 8)
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no i don't have a bentley (why do you think i post like a f**k**g maniac on here?)
oh man, you're crazy. The day after I bought my car I bought a Bentley manual (at AVR I might add). It has some short comings, but its way more useful than not having one. You can borrow it if you want.
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con rod cap to con rod .....22 ft/lb + 1/4 turn
Here is the spec from the bentley.
I've seen more then 1 rod come through the block because of re-using rod bolts. They may not be cheap, but they are a lot cheaper then a new block.
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[Quote from all three of you guys goes here]
Thanks for the suggestion, i will use the old ones to make sure the bearings are good and get new ones.
You're right, i do need a bentley. It's ok, borrowing yours wont be any good when i need to refer to it down the road but i do appreciate your offer that's very kind of you, thank you.
Thanks again for the torque specs :P and yes a replacement MF block would be pricey. much more than con rod bolts.
In other news that i'm delighted to share,
turns out im a complete moron and i apparently ordered bearings that were out of stock and it is my fault i got the wrong ones.
Oh well, thank goodness they were only 13$.
Another lesson learned, thankfully that was a fairly cheap one. A rather time consuming and aggravating one though. my arms are still sore from working under the car for so long.
I worked on my new rad fan mount and inter cooler mounting today. Unfortunately i didn't post any pictures of my plans but i will next time i have it all out.
I have two Taurus V6 fans that i'm going to be using to cool my rad and inter cooler.
YES they are 14 and 16 inch fans. YES they over lap the rad. YES the curtains went flying when i powered them up with my spare batt. in the living room. (on cardboard or course. the garage is TOO cold!and cluttered)
It's a bit of a job making a bracket for them and shroud but it's really worth it if you're looking for two thin high powered fans. I got them at the junk yard for 40$. washed they look new. I didn't check the year though.. mid to late 90's i think.
BUT 'tis for another thread i s'pose.
Thanks all of you for your help with my stupidity. i'll forever read the box that the parts came in from now until i die... and double check what it is i need to buy.
i feel like a dick for wasting your time but i learned a lot about bearings. like the wrong one's don't fit :D !!!
but i am serious about feeling bad for wasting every one's time because of my idiocy. :(
foot note: a lot of my advice in the future is going to be, "Make sure you have the right parts if you're having problems with new stuff" but im sure most are not as dumb as i. I get too excited when stuff comes in the mail. :oops:
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I asked a guy who works at a VW shop look up the con rod bolts in some vw book he has and it said they were NOT torque to yield, but the gas ones ARE.
That's why our con rod bolts are so much more expensive, apparently...
Any thoughts on this? Have people read that they are not torque to yield?
I gotta find the name of the book he read it in.
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All the Bentley says is 22 ft. lbs + 1/4 turn. It says nothing different between gas and diesel. :?
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well the price in the bolts is fairly significant...
maybe they are higher quality and don't stretch?
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I see.
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Well, i figured it out.
The rods will also bind if you have a broken oil ring. Waited two weeks to get it, replaced the one i broke... and immediately i break another one. :x :x :x :x :x :x :x Tightening the ring compressor is hear a little *crack* tears then followed. and swearing.
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Are you lightly oiling the face of the rings before you try to put the piston in the compressor and block? It sounds as if the compressor is binding on the rings, and resulting in localized compression of the ring instead of the entire ring. The I.D. of the compressor should be very smooth, and if you oil the surface of the rings it should allow them to slide freely in order to compress across the entire surface. I would also make sure you have a good quality ring compressor. I presume you are using the band type?
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The should also be a small taper on the very top edge of each bore to help get the rings in a tad easier.
It sure is easy to snap one if your not VERY careful.
Did you buy a complete new set?
If you only broke one of the two oil rings you can use one of the original ones if you need to. Better than nothing.
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Thanks for the responses guys.
I threw out the old ones nievely :(
I use a paint brush to lather everything in oil. Maybe i used too much? i use so much oil that it collects on the garage floor :P
I think there might be something nodged in the piston groove that i missed when i was cleaning them out. I have to get in there with an artists knife and cut everything out i think.
Yes im using the band type. The first oil ring i broke i broke using the other type of ring compressor. I dont know the name of it?
I first used
(http://www.cj-3a.com/DSC01954.JPG)
I don't really like it but i know you can get much better control of the tightness with it. I think the one i have is for much bigger pistons.
I'm using this type now.
(http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/tools2003/KD-2284.jpg)
Already ordered the new ring set. Should be here in 12 days. Sigh. (but that's not going to happen if Christmas has something to say about it)
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Just checked with the VW dealer here since it is next door and for my one engine (CR 1.6 NA) the rod bolts are NOT torque to yield older engines did not have them. I don't know about the TD. The TD does have different specs for torquing the rod bolts (higher) so maybe they are TTY. He also said older production engines were re-usable? both TD and NA.
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Hey, thanks mate.
Yeah i thought 25ft/lbs wasn't very much for the bolts to be torque to yield but they do have the "1/4 turn" making them appear to be torque to yield. The bolts just seem much to beefy to be TTY with such a low setting. i have a true TD "MF" bottom end. as far as i can tell it was made in 1990.
Looking at the old sleeve that the broken ring came out of i couldn't find any carbon or anything to bind the ring? Maybe i just effed up, twice.
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Have you made any progress ed? Are you still waiting for parts?
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Did you make sure you can see shiny aluminum in the bottom of each ring groove?
Hope you can get it going.......I've had projects drag out and it's no fun. :(
Oh yeah, put the rings in the pistons and make sure you can push each ring in past the side of the piston all the way around, if any of the rings won't go flush with the piston then there is carbon in there that has to come out. Also carbon likes to add up on the edge of the groove, inside but not in the very bottom of the groove, in other words it's hard to see the carbon but it's there and it'll break your rings. Good luck :)
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thank you both very much for posting!
Yes, i attacked the groove with an artists knife. Should be good now (i hope) I'll go over it again. I'm waiting for that ring set to replace the broken one still.
I got exhaust valves finally last night so the new head is almost together.
Once i lap them and get the keepers in i just have to drill and tap the intake for the LDA and Gauge.
so, im waiting for a cam cover that Tyler is sending me and a sandwich plate Greg is trading me air cleaner parts for :D Both of which i'm very happy and grateful for!!! Kudos to you guys!!! :D
Merry Christmas
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Best of luck to you getting it going! :) What sort of time frame are you looking at?
Have you been happy with the prothe 1.9 head so far? I'm interested in seeing your results with it as I'm thinking about doing the same.
Merry Christmas!
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The head looks as good as i could expect? It looks like an allum cast turbo diesel head :P
the machining looks fine, there aren't any oddities. There were some shavings that came out of it when i first got it. I polished the casting marks and smoothed it out.
LOTS of material came out from dremeling the inside with sanding cylinders.
Haha, i don't want to talk about time frames. All my brothers are over for Christmas and they reckon by this time next year my mess of car parts will have spread to the ENTIRE garage (so like on the canoe and on the freezer) and all over the basement.
I'm currently using 1 table in my basement and most of the garage. But of course everyone still complains about it :roll:
and they think it will be there indefinately. My dad wants to have the jetta taken to a wrecker even after i've spent almost 1 grand on a new head + semi-rebuild.
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Haha, i don't want to talk about time frames. All my brothers are over for Christmas and they reckon by this time next year my mess of car parts will have spread to the ENTIRE garage (so like on the canoe and on the freezer) and all over the basement.
I'm currently using 1 table in my basement and most of the garage. But of course everyone still complains about it :roll:
and they think it will be there indefinately. My dad wants to have the jetta taken to a wrecker even after i've spent almost 1 grand on a new head + semi-rebuild.
Hang in there pal, I've been there. You're learning the hard way, without anyone there to teach you. You're also learning many valuable lessons...ie the importance of good information (Bentley), double checking that you have the correct parts (lots of room for errors in the supply chain), and figuring out the root cause of problems before continuing (there has got to be something wrong with the piston, cylinder, or installation process where that oil ring keeps breaking).
FWIW, I don't believe that just because a bolt has a torque turn spec means that it is torque to yield and needs to be replaced. I know that many of the larger diesel engines I work with have torque turn head, rod, rocker shaft, and main bolts yet can be re-used infinitely according to the manufacturer. I bet the Bentley manual specifies whether bolt replacement is required in this case.
Anyway, merry christmas and keep at it...you'll get there :D
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Thanks Bud :)
I can almost smell the burning diesel now.
About the ring thing.
I think it was just me being too careless tightening the sleeve. I used different cylinders the two times they broke.
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here is the piston that is giving me troubles.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_7247.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_7246.jpg)
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Were those pictures too large to view?
usually someone replies by now...
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after i said "here is the piston that is giving me troubles"
I uploaded two very detailed pictures. Can you see them?
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That piston looks fine, except for the missing oil ring. :roll:
BTW, the 77-84 diesel bentley says 33ft-lbs for rod bolts and the 85-92 gasser/diesel bentley says 22ft-lbs + 1/4 turn.
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Cheers mate
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try test fitting the rings by applying some pressure from your hands to make sure they fit in. sometimes a small obstruction can go unnoticed.