VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Grunttorque on November 06, 2008, 07:02:58 am
-
Hey guys what a good site here.. I just bought a 97 AAZ with a lot of miles/km and am cuious if you guys think I should do anything before i put it in my Samurai. I def. want to get a Giles pump and possibly an intercooler and different turbo. This front crank gear pulley problem Im reading about is scaring me, is there an easy fix for it? This engine has a serp setup on it also. Thanks for any help!
-
Welcome ! The search tool is your friend. http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/search.php
Be sure to put your search terms on the top right line, even if you select "all terms", and select the search button at the bottom.
What's the health of the engine ? Normal blow-by ? Good compression ? If so, I would change the oil with Mobil 1 10w50 or some similar high quality synthetic and install it as is, after you replace the timing belt and idler if that has not been done in the past 50K miles. You would do well to check the glow plugs and build the super dooper glow plug system many of us are using.
-
Thanks! I'm not sure the health of it. It has 264k on it so its probably tired. I bought it from a wrecking yard we do a lot of business with and they said it ran good before they pulled it.
-
254K ? Just getting started !! LOL, well, if the owner changed the oil regularly and never over heated it. I'd do the timing belt / idler and see how it ran before I tor it down. You're looking for torque on the trail, not a million miles on the freeway. Its small enough that it would be easy to pull from the Sami.
-
Damn I would have loved to have a 1.9 in my zuk.
I'm looking for another now, leaning towards a sidekick though over a zuk.
Be sure to post up some pics as you go through your build.
-
while the engine is out it's always easier to do everything.
Maybe change common seals to prevent leaky mess. a light Hone & ring would be easy + a head gasket change (obviously). That would keep it in good shape for sure. While the head is off you could check how well the valves are seating. Just get a good idea how it's all doing and put it back together.
-
I agree with eddy BUT.......
If you tear it down its just silly to not just rebuild it.
On the other hand a tear down and reseal as mentioned is a good idea. At that point you could get ARP head studs and never have to worry about your HG again..
The problem I have when doing stuff like that is before ya know it I have new bearings, seals, gaskets, rings, had the head checked at the machine shop. So just shy of a actual TOTAL rebuild.
Sometimes its just easier to install and run it.
-
What is the difference between that and a real rebuild?
Why bore if you don't need to?
what else is missing....
do a head job and there you go.
Im assuming the condition of the block is mint. and will do with a light hone for basically cleaning purposes.
-
What is the difference between that and a real rebuild?
Why bore if you don't need to?
what else is missing....
do a head job and there you go.
Im assuming the condition of the block is mint. and will do with a light hone for basically cleaning purposes.
The difference is about $800.00.
Unless you actually measure the taper in the bore you have no idea what your building.
It could "look" good but in reality be out of spec and you will end up with excessive blowby etc.
Having the head work done is quite a bit more in depth than just having it checked for flatness/ vac tested.
There is damn near as much work to do on the head as the block when doing a full rebuild thus the reason it's expensive.
If all you wanted to do was toss in some rings and gaskets then all your really doing is what I would refer to as a budget refresh not a rebuild, even if you add bearings.
-
i got a really good deal... about $260 for new lifters, shave head, guides, seals, oh and the hot tanking to remove all of the EGR build up, and then it was pressure tested. the thing came back looking MINT!
quick note, make sure to check the center of the lifters for the very small cracks. if its just barely noticeable, it won't be long before they break. they can last quite a while though... i replaced mine then and there so i didn't have to worry about it down the line. makes for an expensive job though :(
-
Grunttorque - Welcome to the forums. Well, I have been lurking enough myself so I thought I would finally register.
I too am a Zuki fan. I have a 95 Sidekick with a 4 link Suspension and Toyota axles. I bought a 1.9TD AAZ also and am in the process of finalizing the installation.
Oh, I am located in Oregon, so we are close!
(http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/MotorGoingIn.jpg)
(http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/95Kick-1.jpg)
-
Wow you guys are awesome.. thanks for the welcome. I'll be sure to get some pics when I start the swap. The swap kit I bought is in shipment so it wont be long! I would love to tear it down and clean it all up and put head studs in but im not sure yet. The engine looks pretty nasty on the outside I wish there was a way to make it look better but I did pull the valve cover this morning and it looked really good inside.
The fabric lines coming off the injectors.. are these return lines? If so is there a kit I can buy to replace them? They look pretty worn and nasty.
Donkeyworx I wish I had the money for the 4 link! Your rig looks really good. Maybe we can get together down the road sometime.
-
Grunttorque - Welcome to the forums. Well, I have been lurking enough myself so I thought I would finally register.
I too am a Zuki fan. I have a 95 Sidekick with a 4 link Suspension and Toyota axles. I bought a 1.9TD AAZ also and am in the process of finalizing the installation.
Oh, I am located in Oregon, so we are close!
(http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/MotorGoingIn.jpg)
(http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/95Kick-1.jpg)
Hey I see a Zukiworld sticker..
You know Eric B?
Nice to have some fellow zukers around :)
-
I have a 1.6TD in my Samurai. I completely rebuilt the motor, had it installed running great, then I retorqued the head and cracked the block. Now it's all apart and will be getting another block as soon as I can save a few more bucks.
I am also rebuilding the trans which is all apart now (unfortunately I need a 1st gear which I need to track down).
I would recommend the following, some of this will depend on what kit you are using:
~I used a Geo tracker gear reduction starter, it's very small and works much better then the stock starter.
~Rebuild the trans, the kit's are like 90 bucks and pretty easy to do (compared to other tranny's) I regreted not doing mine originally, but now it's out again so I'm glad I'm doing it, it needed it.
~Install a heavy duty clutch, they're not much more then stock.
~Use a bigger rad then stock (I used a rabbit rad w/ 2 10" elec fans)
~ You can probably adapt the stock Sami clutch cable bracket, I ended up making one that was not as strong as I thought, it flexed a bit, so now I'll be adapting the stock bracket
~Do a good job cleaning up threaded holes in the block (engine mounts, etc) and be sure to use the right length hardware and locktite. It is easy to break the cast bosses - and that would suck!
~ Make sure you engine mounts are in good shape.
~ You will need some lift for diff to pan clearance.
~ I would definitely pull the head and check it out, it probably could use guides and a fresh valve job, use studs in the block. If the bottom end looks OK you might as well run it (?)
~ Install an EGT gauge.
These are all I can thing of at the moment, best of luck, theis is an excellent swap!
I'll be re-gearing my t case, rebuilding trans, reassembling motor and building another IP this winter. I'll do it all one at a time since that would be alot of small parts spread out all over the shop!!!
At some point I will be pulling out my rocky road springs and installing wrangler spring SPOA with long shocks.
-
Sweet Sidekick!
This is my Sami, not pretty but it's a solid offroader.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t13/markp-svoimages/Sami034-1.jpg)
-
hehe, Do I know Eric....
Why Yes... Yes I do: Close friend of mine.
:D
-
Did the samurai or side kick ever come with a diesel engine option?Ive got e check here and was wondering if you guys deal with this.
-
hehe, Do I know Eric....
Why Yes... Yes I do: Close friend of mine.
:D
That's awesome!!
Next time you see him tell him Dan from Utah says Hi.
I used to live up there, went wheelin with Eric several times, Moab as well.
Sky and the guys as well.
Good people.
-
Did the samurai or side kick ever come with a diesel engine option?Ive got e check here and was wondering if you guys deal with this.
Nope sure didn't.
Just he anemic 1.3ltr sami and the 1.6 kick.
Um, "e check"? What are you referring to?
-
He probably means emissions. Some states wont allow a diesel to be swapped into gasser vehicles.
-
He probably means emissions. Some states wont allow a diesel to be swapped into gasser vehicles.
I'm actually kind of worried about this since I have emissions here. I'm hoping they can just test off what engine I have instead of what its supposed to have.
-
I don't see why that would be a problem.
what difference does the car body make to emissions.
get it tested as a 1990 turbo diesel jetta. (or what ever the aaz was I don't know these things)
Talk about judging a book by it's cover.
-
Grunttorque, you will love that motor in your rig 8) my opinion is get all the temp sensors, oil, water, boost, egt. run a front mount and an air to oil cooler, all these are neccessary because our rigs are shaped like bricks! Im running the AAZ in a uk vitara (sidekick escudo tracker) The torque of these motors with some light tuning is enough to kill a transmission in a very short time so i would think how much power you need before you go giles :twisted: Unless its more for economy :roll: :lol:
Oh and i would do the rear crank seal and throw it in, then go from there, it may have had a pampered life and still be good!
Good luck mate
Pete
-
There was a guy here who had one in his Sammy and he would have overheating problems on hills. I don't know the size of his radiator however. So x2 on a bigger one. He however randomly adjusted his timing with no tools at all, so who knows what it was set at either, which may have been his real problem.
-
I don't see why that would be a problem.
what difference does the car body make to emissions.
get it tested as a 1990 turbo diesel jetta. (or what ever the aaz was I don't know these things)
Talk about judging a book by it's cover.
It makes all the difference.They vehicle in question(body)would have to have come with a diesel option somewhere in its production history.The epa wont allow a vehicle that never came with a diesel, to be tested as a diesel.Therefore failing emmisions and not getting your plates.It sucks
-
I don't see why that would be a problem.
what difference does the car body make to emissions.
get it tested as a 1990 turbo diesel jetta. (or what ever the aaz was I don't know these things)
Talk about judging a book by it's cover.
they aren't as lucky as us canucks! :P
we can simply change a car over to a diesel no sweat! just go to the DMV and get it changed over, then booya! 8) :lol:
the EPA are like nazi's... no worse... at least the nazi's had style :shock:
-
I don't see why that would be a problem.
what difference does the car body make to emissions.
get it tested as a 1990 turbo diesel jetta. (or what ever the aaz was I don't know these things)
Talk about judging a book by it's cover.
It makes all the difference.They vehicle in question(body)would have to have come with a diesel option somewhere in its production history.The epa wont allow a vehicle that never came with a diesel, to be tested as a diesel.Therefore failing emmisions and not getting your plates.It sucks
That depends on the state and maybe the vehicle. There have been quite a few newer Rovers that have been converted to diesel, most using engines never offered in the US.
-
as long as it was offered somewhere in the world,as you are allowed to import vehicles/engines.It doesnt have to be a rover engine per say,just a diesel.
-
I finally got some pics posted.. I couldnt wait to install all the wiring so I ran some jumpers and fired it up. It sounds pretty good and snappy. My only problem was I had a bad head cold when I hooked up the remote oil filter system and connected the oil lines backwards.. not good. I think I took half the life out of the turbo by letting it idle with no oil. We'll have to see how it does after I get some lift so the oil pan doesn't hit. But its coming along!
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1511.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1512.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1513.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1516.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1519.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1522.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1523.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1585.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1587.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/passionforcars/IMG_1591.jpg)
-
Ok, I have to ask this....
Did you have the original VW Flywheel ON when you received the engine?
Here is the deal, I did not see any type of timing mark "Transfer" on your engine picture. If you did NOT transfer the Top Dead Center (TDC) mark from the back of the engine to the front of the engine... You are going to have a HECK of a time when it comes time to replacing a timing belt and such.
Sorry I did not mention this earlier to you... :oops:
Oh, and one last thing that I learned from my swap: Did you put an EGT Sensor in the Exhaust manifold BEFORE you put the engine in?
Now that I have my engine in, I am kicking myself in the ARSE for not doing it when the engine was out.
Looking good man!
-
you know I was reading about somebody else having the same problem the other day.. I didnt have anything on the engine when I got it. No flywheel, no alternator, no tensioner pulley. It was a pain. Im not sure how Im going to get the timing marks set..
I just read your last part. I didn't put an egt probe in either. This thing has been squeezing my wallet so I thought I would wait a little.
-
you know I was reading about somebody else having the same problem the other day.. I didnt have anything on the engine when I got it. No flywheel, no alternator, no tensioner pulley. It was a pain. Im not sure how Im going to get the timing marks set..
I just read your last part. I didn't put an egt probe in either. This thing has been squeezing my wallet so I thought I would wait a little.
If you ever need to pull the head, you can slap a dial-indcator on #1 piston to find TDC... Then scribe it someplace you like.
-
prothe can be your friend for cheap stuff.
I bought an egt set up for 55$ US from him. get more than 5 items (or something?) and shipping is paid for.