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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Gearhead on November 04, 2008, 01:44:24 pm
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Is everybody using the regular oil pan bolts when installing a windage tray? It's not terribly thick, but I'm sure it will not compress as much as the OE gasket.
Thanks.
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Stock bolts will do fine.
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Ok as clever as I think I am I've never seen a 'windage tray' [AFAIK :shock: ] Anyone with a picture :?: :mrgreen:
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(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3578.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3578.jpg)
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(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3578.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3578.jpg)
Thanks for the pic TurboJ
So what is it, a DALEK?
More importantly do Quantum's need them :?
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It's basically just a baffle to prevent the oil from slopping around all over the place in hard cornering/accereration/braking situations to help prevent oil starvation.
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also helps prevent the oil from getting whipped around the crank and foaming up... but thats only at high rpm :wink:
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It will fit the quantum pan if a small section is cut out of it. Not exactly necessary, but possibly helpful. I like the integral rubber gasket.
Andrew
Ah so it's windage as in meanderage :shock:
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I actually bought it because it was $30. IIRC, that was about $15 more than the reusable rubber gasket. Hopefully someday I'll need the "tray" part. Right now, I just have a leaky gasket.
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I've heard that there's a "mist" of oil hovering around in the bottom, and the windage tray helps eliminate it by catching the oil slinging off of rotating parts and making it drip into the oil pan. This reduces the mist of oil the crankshaft has to rotate through, helping lessen any drag caused by the mist. True/false? Meh, the `trays are cheap these days so one might as well use it instead of cork.
Any longitudinal application will require the small section to be cut out. The section to cut out is the area where the subframe goes under the oil pan (without the cutout the `tray doesn't sit flat with the oil pan's gasket surface). If you have a special oil pan, there's more to cut out 8)
(http://www.vwot.org/community/modules/Gallery/albums/album113/ABA2005_13.sized.jpg)
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I've heard that there's a "mist" of oil hovering around in the bottom, and the windage tray helps eliminate it by catching the oil slinging off of rotating parts and making it drip into the oil pan. This reduces the mist of oil the crankshaft has to rotate through, helping lessen any drag caused by the mist. True/false? Meh, the `trays are cheap these days so one might as well use it instead of cork.
Any longitudinal application will require the small section to be cut out. The section to cut out is the area where the subframe goes under the oil pan (without the cutout the `tray doesn't sit flat with the oil pan's gasket surface). If you have a special oil pan, there's more to cut out 8)
(http://www.vwot.org/community/modules/Gallery/albums/album113/ABA2005_13.sized.jpg)
What is that pan off of?
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X2 more info on that KILLER pan!!! 8)
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windage tray's have been proven on the dyno to give a couple HP in high perf apps. :D
now translate that to a 70hp diesel.. and you'll get 1hp if your lucky :lol: but i too like the re-useable rubber gasket part, and the not starving my motor while i run through a corner real fast.
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windage tray's have been proven on the dyno to give a couple HP in high perf apps. :D
now translate that to a 70hp diesel.. and you'll get 1hp if your lucky :lol: but i too like the re-useable rubber gasket part, and the not starving my motor while i run through a corner real fast.
I agree, I didn't get mine because it had a windage tray built in but for the rubber gasket instead.
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I've heard that there's a "mist" of oil hovering around in the bottom, and the windage tray helps eliminate it by catching the oil slinging off of rotating parts and making it drip into the oil pan. This reduces the mist of oil the crankshaft has to rotate through, helping lessen any drag caused by the mist. True/false? Meh, the `trays are cheap these days so one might as well use it instead of cork.
Any longitudinal application will require the small section to be cut out. The section to cut out is the area where the subframe goes under the oil pan (without the cutout the `tray doesn't sit flat with the oil pan's gasket surface). If you have a special oil pan, there's more to cut out 8)
(http://www.vwot.org/community/modules/Gallery/albums/album113/ABA2005_13.sized.jpg)
What is that pan off of?
Schrick?
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The oil pan is a factory European Passat part. Both B1s (VW Dasher/Passat) and B2s (VW Quantum/Santana/Passat & Audi 4000/80) got aluminum oil pans as options, I believe in the "GT" models.
I've seen 3 different variants: 1-piece and 2 different styles of 3-piece (the baffling was different between the two). They're all shaped, baffled and finned for longitudinal applications.
If trying to put the 1-piece into a VW Fox, the radiator gets in the way of the reservoir on that side. I tried to devise a way of raising the stock radiator up to help with clearance but that didn't work. The solution ended up being trading the 1-piece oil pan for a 3-piece, whose reservoir is smaller on that side.
I'll dig out some pictures of all the pans in the next few days. I've seen pictures online of a factory VW oil pan like mine, but designed for transverse applications. If I come across that on my hard drive, I'll post it too.
To stay marginally on-topic for this thread, the aluminum oil pans use the same bolts with the exception of 2, which have to be much longer.