VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: duff on October 09, 2008, 04:09:43 pm
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hey i just rebuilt a 1.6 TD out of an 80 something jetta and i was wondering what oil does it take. i know diesels take a special oil but what weight and what runs best in these IDI's
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Well, since it's just rebuilt I'd go with a regular diesel motor oil. The grade depends on how cold your winters are. After the engine is broken in I use Rotella 0w40 synthetic.
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atleast get 2 oil changes in before switching to synthetic oil!
Duane
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hey thanks for the help. i live in Texas where it gets down to a freezing 65 degrees two months out of the year. so what grade would you recommend, 15w-40??
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I live in central Alaska and run delo 400 15w-40 year round, I have a block heater and 150W of oil pan heaters though. I wouldn't run very thin oil in Texas.
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if you installed new rings, then dont use synthetic as stated above. you should even give it a good 10'000km's to seat the rings... then switch on over to synthetic for the life of the motor and it should last a good long time.
make sure the diesel oil is rated CF (CD is the old standard for turbodiesels)
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Just tonight, I was in Walmart and was going to get a 2.5 gallon container of 15/40 Rotella. Then I saw the price on 15/40 Motorcraft CJ rated oil. It was $10.68 for 5 quarts. The Rotella was an even $26.00 for 2.5 gallons.
I decided to put my "usual" back on the shelf and go with several containers of the Ford Motorcraft. I believe it is probably good oil...better price right at the moment. This would suit you well.
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Like everyone said, if you did your rings, use regular oil with a CF rating - like a 10w-40 for your first 2 oil changes - about 10K km. Then go with a full synthetic. You could start with full synthetic like Mobil One, but if you have fresh rings they will take for ever to seat and you'll be burning quite a bit of motor oil for your first 50k km - maybe a quart every 2k km. - Been there, done that - expensive lesson.
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I think in the"C" rated oil, the -4 rating is for 4 stroke applications. The current -4 rating is CI-4. Rotella 15W40 would be a good choice.
API Oil Guide (http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf)
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I think in the"C" rated oil, the -4 rating is for 4 stroke applications. The current -4 rating is CI-4. Rotella 15W40 would be a good choice.
API Oil Guide (http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf)
Tyler should add that oil guide to the FAQ section that he's doing!
Duane
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I know there are certain break-in additives you want in your oil on gas cars, i'm not sure for diesels. There was a special lube I had to put on my new cam for break-in as well.
Also, what all was done? What oiled parts are new?
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I know there are certain break-in additives you want in your oil on gas cars, I'm not sure for diesels. There was a special lube I had to put on my new cam for break-in as well.
Also, what all was done? What oiled parts are new?
The cam lube for a new cam is because it is under a very high psi and will be mostly dry on initial startup.
The CD-4 rating was among other things for soot suspension. Mobil 1 does not have this and this is why it can't be used long term in a PowerStroke diesel - their injectors are powered by engine oil pressure and fired via a 110v solenoid. This long device has close tolerances that become plugged with soot if the oil doesn't have CD-4 Mobil's industrial synthetic oil - Delvac 1 has this CD-4 rating.
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Ok so CD-4 is a good oil then.. Check..
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Delvac 1 has this CI-4 rating.
Fixed it for yah
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does anyone use the amsoil 5w40, they guarantee 25000 miles in a diesel. expensive up front but cheaper in the long run, also what oil filter do people recommend
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I used to work for a company which had a lot of Amsoil synth. oil sitting in a corner and it never got used. They ran a lot of delivery trucks and, at some point, stopped using the stuff.
So, I began adding one quart per oil change to my '82 Jetta which already had about 180k miles at that point. The other 4 quarts would be Texaco 15/40 or Rotella. All I know is, that car finally lost compression and wouldn't start at 435k miles. I can't help but think the Amsoil had something to do with it.
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I mean, I think the Amsoil helped it run so many tough miles.
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amsoil is really good stuff... i've heard of guys running the same oil for over 2-3 years and getting excellent oil analysis.. (gasser engines)
on diesel engines if you had a bypass filter that removed over 99% of the soot, i bet you could easily do the same.
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whats the deal with those long intervals?25,000miles?Are you kidding,without an oil change?Whats the deal with the filter less oil changes?Ive heard of guys leaving oil in and swapping out filters.Wouldnt that kind of duration also include an excellent filter?
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I think the amsoil filters are like 2 microns while typical filters are maybe 30 microns? I'm sure someone could get exact numbers cuz those might not even be close to right.
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DELO, never lets you down
Rotella, smells like dog poop.
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15w 40 Walmart million mile diesel oil year round. Changed every 5000 km.
I do use a block heater in the winter though.
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i use AGIP 15W40 and change every 7500km.
used to go with 10w40 but my turbo is going and dont want to add oil all the time...
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The local napa guy told me their diesel rabbit filter is 20 microns.
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I built a bypass filter but having a heck of a time finding anything smaller than 10 microns with a 3/4 x 16 thread.
It's on there and I'm sure it's helping but I still want to go to a 2 micron filter if I can find one.
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what is the mic of the mk 1 spin on fuel filters?2 microns for oil would have to be a huge filter i would think.
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I built a bypass filter but having a heck of a time finding anything smaller than 10 microns with a 3/4 x 16 thread.
It's on there and I'm sure it's helping but I still want to go to a 2 micron filter if I can find one.
Amsoil has some spin on bypass filters. Check them out.
Details???
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I built a bypass filter but having a heck of a time finding anything smaller than 10 microns with a 3/4 x 16 thread.
It's on there and I'm sure it's helping but I still want to go to a 2 micron filter if I can find one.
Amsoil has some spin on bypass filters. Check them out.
Details???
I did but I cant find a spec sheet. I can find filters all over the place but specs on them is nil.
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Details???
I have a single filter mount I mounted to my strut bar, took the oil supply off the OE filter mount, brazed the hole in the fitting and drilled a 1/16th (I think that's what it was) hole in it then used a old vac fitting on the block to return the oil.
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I have a single filter mount I mounted to my strut bar, took the oil supply off the OE filter mount, brazed the hole in the fitting and drilled a 1/16th (I think that's what it was) hole in it then used a old vac fitting on the block to return the oil.
pix?
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I have a single filter mount I mounted to my strut bar, took the oil supply off the OE filter mount, brazed the hole in the fitting and drilled a 1/16th (I think that's what it was) hole in it then used a old vac fitting on the block to return the oil.
pix?
Oh WOW!!!
Ok, I'll see if i can get something posted up for ya to see.
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pix?
Oh WOW!!!
:? <--- that's a confused face btw.
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Ya ya!!
Your just gonna have to wait till I'm good and ready :lol:
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I like syn oil, especially in winter, but diesels get oil dirty so fast I prefer to change it often and it's just too expensive for me to do that with syn. I also run veg and like to change oil often for this reason alone.
I may run syn in the samurai once the motor is broken in since I don't put alot of miles on it (but the miles I do are very hard), but in my Benz that see's 700 miles/wk, I could not justify spending the money, I prefer to change it every 3K and that thing holds 8qts. I use Rotella, get it at TSC in 5 gal pails, comes out to $9 and change per/gal.