VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: drrtybyl on October 04, 2008, 01:00:33 am
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I've just picked up a trashed [budget] '79 Rabbit diesel L (1.5L) and have been digging through the forum for info, but haven't found any definitive solutions to the problem I have. I'm new to VWs and the diesel engine, but have plenty of experience with gas vehicles new and old and am ready to dive in to get this car running smoothly again.
(http://www.billykettler.com/img/rabbit.jpg)
The last owner decided to change the timing belt, at which point he says the car began to smoke at idle. The engine starts up with relative ease, but runs a bit rough and emits lots of white, diesel-smelling smoke, which, after 30 seconds or so, turns into a much smaller quantity of black smoke that persists (I'm guessing the timing is somehow retarded?). There is also a small amount of white smoke that puffs out from under the hood right after startup. I noticed air bubbles in the fuel filter-to-pump line, which I thought might be causing the problem. Here's my checklist to try and remedy this issue:
1) Pull timing cover and confirm timing following Bentley; time injection pump using Vince's guide
2) Replace fuel filter & tank to filter lines if filter replacement doesn't get rid of the bubbles (injector lines look new)
3) Pull the sucker for a rebuild and new head gasket
Am I missing anything here? The car is a complete basket case and needs a lot of work, but for the moment I just want to get it running consistently. I'm ready to do an engine teardown if it comes to that. Any help is appreciated.
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Sounds like you are on the right track. Make sure you have diesel in the tank regarding the air in the lines. I thought I had a huge leak but I had just run out of fuel. Stupid gauge was lying to me.
There is also an intank screen/filter on some mk1s in the gas tank. Have a look in the access cover under the back seat.
It definitly sounds like a timing issue.
You should also verify that the glowplugs are working
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Followed the steps to make sure the timing belt was on properly this afternoon (it wasn't beforehand). Still getting a lot of white smoke at startup/idle but not while moving, and the engine runs smoother -- no more air in the fuel line. Going to check the glow plugs and fuel screw tomorrow -- the previous owner played around with the idle fuel after changing the timing belt, and I'm thinking this might be the cause of all of the unburned fuel in the exhaust..
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After spending hours accessing and removing the IP bolts (someone installed them on the wrong side of the bracket) I was able to modify the timing.. Still getting smoke, but far less -- and now it's black. Also noticed fuel leaking from injector #4 around its threading :shock: Pulled the line and confirmed that fuel was/is getting to the injector. I'm thinking this is probably causing the unburned fuel smoke. Going to try: 1) cleaning and reinstalling the injector 2) replacing it 3) compression test cylinder 4.
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New heat shield HIGHLY recommended if you remove the injector and be sure to torque it when you are reinstalling, The head can crack around the injector boss. :shock:
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New heat shield HIGHLY recommended if you remove the injector and be sure to torque it when you are reinstalling, The head can crack around the injector boss. :shock:
Where's the best/cheapest place to get new heat shields? thanks
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The previous owner decided to slice off the exhaust, so I threw a muffler on it. The car doesn't sound like a train any more, but it's still smoking like one.
(http://www.billykettler.com/img/rabbit/muffler.jpg)
I've played with the timing and fuel screw endlessly and was able to get it running without smoke with slightly retarded timing/lean idle fuel -- only trouble was that without light pressure on the gas pedal, the engine died.
(http://www.billykettler.com/img/rabbit/engine_bay.jpg)
Next course of action is to swap the injectors with new heat shields, then test compression.. I don't think it's the glow plugs because when it does start up billowing, the black/grey smoking continues even once the engine has warmed up. I'm starting to think this engine may need a head gasket/rebuild.. :?
maybe the smoke means it wants a turbo :D
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Some progress..
Body stripped:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/bare_metal_pass.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/bare_metal_pass2.jpg)
Etching Primer:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/primer.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/primer2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/primer3.jpg)
Vac pump rebuilt..
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/vac.jpg)
ARP stud part number 204-4203 is correct for the 11mm bolts..
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/stud.jpg)
Culprit for low compression in cylinder 4 (very slight edge on wall + tons of carbon/gasket buildup):
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/block.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/head.jpg)
Tons of carbon on #4
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/head2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/chanzy.jpg)
Lots of parts on the way. Hoping to have the block pulled and the remaining body recesses filled this weekend. Zero rust-through!
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Looking good. Definitely get the injectors tested while you are at it.
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/crack.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/crack2.jpg)
So I've had the block up on a stand for a couple of days now and finally scraped all of the crap off of it, pulled the oil pan, and made an upsetting discovery. A crack is running all the way through the block for about 5 inches around #4.. :cry:
What are the merits of plugging in some JB weld or similar?
This may not be a 1.5TD project for much longer..
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here is your solution right here.
Seen this done a few Cummins engines with great success.
http://www.locknstitch.com/
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Thanks -- I saw that posted in another thread (along with the tale of successful JBwelding), still waiting on stitch kit pricing. I've got a lead on a 1.6TD on the cheap: going to see if that pans out. If the lock n stitch kit ends up being expensive I may just JBWeld it. 5 years with no leaks sounds pretty good, heh.
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I doubt they're compatible but, I have a 1.6L block that I just removed and stripped from a car if your interested.
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Thanks for the offer. I actually picked up a 1.6 TD block this weekend. After dunking it and doing a thorough cleaning I decided to go ahead and repair the 1.5 block. The crack area is held together by the pan and is supported by a tranny bolt, so I'm thinking it won't see enough stress to open up again. The 1.6 block needs boring and re-planing, and isn't compatible with my 11mm studs.
I'm going to install the oil squirters from the 1.6 block, cut some notches in my pistons and re-ring them before putting everything back together. All components appear to be in pretty good shape after exhaustive cleaning.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/block_paint1.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/block_paint2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/block_paint3.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/block_paint4.jpg)
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here is your solution right here.
Seen this done a few Cummins engines with great success.
http://www.locknstitch.com/
Dan i read what that company said about welding cast iron with nickel rod!
and i disagree with them! i have welded with nickel rod and is machinable !
my shinney black truck has a welded cast iron with nickel rod and i machined it ,milled it drilled it taped it with no problem!! there is a even better rod to weld cast with i've heard and soon i will learn what that is the next time a cast job come up at this little shop i been working at he will show me! supposed to work better then nickel rod! and nickel rod welds nice on cast! but with cast there is always different qualities and this new process i learn it will not matter what the quality is
Duane!
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ok, so your idea of putting the oil squirters in your 1.5 block.. good luck. and that cracked block, i would have just put your internals in a 1.6 block under a 1.6 head. 1.5 blocks are garbage and way too weak. you were going in the right direction with the TD motor. jb weld might work for a little while, but if you throw any boost to that motor at all, the crack is probably gonna open right back up, maybe bigger. this is one of those things i would not skimp on or (profanity removed by mod). i may not have much room to talk since i rebuilt my last engine for (including the cost of the engine)$17.85, but hey, its the best runner ive had so far. but yea, its way easier to do things right the first time, rather than half ass them once then pull them out later to fix it again.
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ok, so your idea of putting the oil squirters in your 1.5 block.. good luck. and that cracked block, i would have just put your internals in a 1.6 block under a 1.6 head. 1.5 blocks are garbage and way too weak.
So basically what you're saying is to upgrade to the 1.6.
It looks like you're running 18psi on a 1.5 block per your sig :?:
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rabbit on roids is right! a turbo motor pressurizes the crank case and with that crack and that the 1.5 all ready have poor breathing passages your gonna be prone to a fast failure! the 1.6 were better engineered from what was learned by the 1.5 from VW!
JB weld just wont hold up to the constant heat and contraction of the crack!
i personally think it will leak after the first day!
Duane
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So basically what you're saying is to upgrade to the 1.6.
It looks like you're running 18psi on a 1.5 block per your sig :?:
I would make it a full 1.6.
1.6 parts are so much more plentiful that it'll be much easier in the long run.
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i am running 18 on a stock block, 25 is about as high as you can safely go. i ran it for a long time with boost peaks of only 25psi. but one night i was racing a civic, and i was determined to stay ahead, so i neglected my gauges for a few seconds too long. i looked down at them after it went POP tho. my boost gauge was at 37psi. the whole end of the block after the #4 cylinder was trashed, pulled the threads right off the block. cracked the deck, and messed up the threads on 3 bolt holes. well, pulled the threaded bosses clear out of the block. ok, enough of my storys..
ive had enough different motors under my hood tho. the two 1.5's ive had, have way more top end power than the 1.6's i could never get a 1.6 to spool my turbo to 30 psi like the 1.5's. i even had a 1.6TD that had a ported/gasket matched head, and that still didnt touch the performance i got out of my 1.5 motors. im not going by what people say about these motors, but by my own experiences. and personally, i think the ultimate cheap high rev diesel would consist of a turbo block & head with a 1.5 crank, rods and pistons(notched of course). i think it would be worth balancing the whole thing too, just because its a free upgrade. the 1.5 is a great engine, its just hard to keep a head on it under boost.
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why not a 1.5 crank in a 1.6 block? or better yet a 1.9 block?
i know it's been done the other way around!
i know the 1.5 do rev faster then the 1.6 and 1.9 thats always been the
advantage on the 1.5 with the right pump (a yellow dot pump!)
Duane
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thats what i was talking about earlier, a 1.5 rotating assy in a 1.6 block. you have to use the 1.5 rods and pistons tho, as the rods are longer, and the wristpin-to-crown distance is also bigger. if you put 1.6 pistons on 1.5 rods, there would be nowheres near enough compression. the pistons wouldnt even protrude out of the block. ive done lots of thinking and comparing just to see if it were even possible. im way more partial to the 1.5 for its better top end. but there blocks are simply too weak. and i do have a yellow dot pump on it right now. i wanna modify, or pull the fuel limiter pin out of that pump and throw an LDA on it.
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I used this (http://www.jcwhitney.com/CARGO-CHEMICAL-THERMOSTEEL-ENGINE-REPAIR-COMPOUND/GP_2000759_N_111+10201+600016924_10101.jcw) instead of JBWeld. If it looks like it's going to open up I'll get the 1.6 machined and swap everything over.
It's a small hairline crack held together in multiple places -- makes me wonder how it got there. The car was, after all, running with this and a leaky head gasket, heh.
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This may be a stupid question, but do any other modifications need to be made to a pump (internals, etc.) to add an LDA, or is the LDA simply a RRFPR-to-pump attachment? From the looks of it, it just screws into top of the pump? Would it possible to simply use a standalone RRFPR on that side of the pump instead of an LDA?
This mechanical fuel management stuff is still new to me..
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rrfpr? i dont really know what your talking about there. but yea, an lda will bolt on a n/a pump, but it wont fuel like a turbo pump would. its got a fuel limiting pin in the side of the case. if you grind down, or remove that pin then it would work. and as for whatever you were talking about with the rrfpr, assuming its part of the pump.. i wouldnt mess with one
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Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator. Increases fuel pressure as boost is sensed..
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The Bosch pumps do it differently - they increase fuel quantity rather than pressure as boost pressure increases. The LDA for all intents and purposes cranks up the fuel screw when it detects boost allowing more fuel to be injected. There's no change in fuel pressure either within the pump or on the injection side.
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adding pressure to the inlet on the pump will have little affect as the low pressure pump in the IP is a positive displacement vane pump.
the vane pump will pump a certain volume regardless of pressure, and since diesel does not compress adding pressure to the inlet will not allow the vane pump to pump a higher volume the way you can do with air pumps.
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yea, i agree with what he said ^ ^ ^
i like how he put it way more technical..
my brain doesnt work like that anymore.
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I meant that it would have little effect to how much fuel was pumped through the vane pump, but you are right about the internal pressure metering as well.
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/squirter_hole1.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/squirter_hole2.jpg)
Does anyone know for sure if the oil passages line up the same on the 1.5 block as with the 1.6? The 1.5 doesn't have the ridges the 1.6 does where the squirters plug in. I don't want to blindly start drilling holes.
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unless you are extremely confident of your skills, i wouldnt tackle this job. and i wouldnt do it unless your gonna make tons of power or really high combustion pressures. i ran the snot out of my 1.5 and i never even came close to melting a piston, never had an EGT gauge either. just had the stock oil cooler on it and it always stayed cool.
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I would assume it is the same, BUT I don't know it. Looks like the same IM shaft location, same trans bolt pattern, and same oil pump parts but I don't know about the oiling. The way VW likes to reuse everything in the design makes me think they wouldn't change it. I would say go for it and if it were me I would go for it on a rusted cracked junk yard block first if I had the option. Or ask someone on the forum that has a junk one they could drill really quickly for you.
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/piston4.jpg)
It's kind of hard to tell in this picture, but when pulling and re-ringing pistons I discovered that the oil ring in #4 wasn't expanding at all: it was being held shut by all the carbon and other crap lining the piston..
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/protrusion.jpg)
Apparently all of those extra pieces you get in the super-low budget pump timing kit are good for something
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/front_primer.jpg)
First coat of outer primer
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/bumps2.jpg)
Tons of dents (pre-popping)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/bumps.jpg)
This area has been tons of sanding/filler work to flatten even with most of the pitting pulled and hammered out.
The body is almost completely smooth and ready for basecoat at this point...
My 1.5 is now ready to go. Just need to finish the body and drop the engine in.
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rotate it over just a box hair to touch the deck to achieve zero. then rotate it a box hair back on to the piston. or is my thinking wrong?
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i actually considered that, but wasnt for sure if everything was threaded. so, yea, it wouldnt give an accurate reading..
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Deck was set horizontal with a level; dial reset with straight edge held across the deck/piston.. The assembly there is very rigid. Got the same protrusion measurements for 1/4 and 2/3 with multiple checks.
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I suppose you could place a piece of fairly sturdy piece of flat across the cylinder with the piston below it. Then measure to the top of the piece of flat and zero the gauge. Then bring the piston up.
you know what, i had that exact idea right after i did my last post, but i was just too damn lazy to edit my post. lol
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/basecoat.jpg)
The car is finally prepped for sealer, base and clear coat. I've been dropping in on yards for the past few months trying to find turbo parts without much luck. Yesterday I came across an amazing deal on a complete TDI from a wreck including harness, cluster etc. which I pulled and am now planning to install instead.. It's funny how the DME is located in the rain tray area right under the wipers -- just asking to be destroyed.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/tdi_cart2.jpg)
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Put down final primer, sealer, base, and 2 coats of clear. The color seems much greener over larger areas than I imagined it would be. Going to put down 2 more coats of clear and then wet sand even.
scuffed and clean:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/setup2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/setup4.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/setup6.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/setup5.jpg)
sealed:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/sealed.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/sealed2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/sealed3.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/sealed4.jpg)
painted!
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/painted2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/rt_quarterpanel.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/setup3.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/painted.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/bumps.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090818/quarterpanel.jpg)
Now to do the doors, hood, and sort out the TDI. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 98 Jetta TDI? ;D
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I doubt they're compatible but, I have a 1.6L block that I just removed and stripped from a car if your interested.
I would have TIG welded it, but if you wanted to try JB weld, you should have stop drilled that crack to prevent it from propagating further, then JB welded it. remember, JB weld is great stuff for blocking a leak, but is not structural on a crack in case iron because you can't get it into the entire crack's surfaces.
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I would have TIG welded it, but if you wanted to try JB weld, you should have stop drilled that crack to prevent it from propagating further, then JB welded it. remember, JB weld is great stuff for blocking a leak, but is not structural on a crack in case iron because you can't get it into the entire crack's surfaces.
I now have a TDI that is going in the car instead.. So the topic title is a bit misleading I guess.
Also, the crack was V-ed out and drilled at the ends.. I just went overboard with the plugging.
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Outdoor paint booth, I like it! :)
Build is looking good!
Brendan
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Outdoor paint booth, I like it! :)
Build is looking good!
Brendan
Yes I like that paint booth too and you can get those canopy thiings pretty cheap now days and use it as a car cover too, until it blows away ;D
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Nice Ride! I always wanted a TDI Radio Flyer. :P
LAWL
Thanks for the encouragement Lord_V. I'm really having to move with this as it had transitioned into the -getting yelled at- phase. That's mostly gone away now that some paint is down.
Would my 1.5 have enough power to push a mid 80s s10 Blazer with a k04 & turbo pump added? I see that those trucks had an optional 2.2L Isuzu diesel engine that put out 58HP... It would need mount fab and trans adapter plate? My dad's '84 came with the "powerful" 2.8L V6 that puts down 110HP/148lbs and gets between 13-18MPG. The emissions vacuum on the thing is a horribly twisted nightmare.
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Nice Ride! I always wanted a TDI Radio Flyer. :P
LAWL
Thanks for the encouragement Lord_V. I'm really having to move with this as it had transitioned into the -getting yelled at- phase. That's mostly gone away now that some paint is down.
Would my 1.5 have enough power to push a mid 80s s10 Blazer with a k04 & turbo pump added? I see that those trucks had an optional 2.2L Isuzu diesel engine that put out 58HP... It would need mount fab and trans adapter plate? My dad's '84 came with the "powerful" 2.8L V6 that puts down 110HP/148lbs and gets between 13-18MPG. The emissions vacuum on the thing is a horribly twisted nightmare.
i have never seen an S10 diesel. ever. in my entire life.
ive seen lots of isuzu pup diesels and chevy luv diesels tho.
the V6 engines are a waste of time. they had a tiny 1 bbl with an intake air heater.
and the bottom end of those engines, lets not even go there. i will just say that the crank wasnt even rated to hold 110 hp. my cousin owned a 4x4 s10 truck once, by the time we sold it, it was on its 6th engine. it would just break cranks left and right. or spin rod bearings or always something.
but as for the VW into the blazer?
is the blaze 4 wheel drive?
did it come with a 2.8 or a 2.5?
you ever thought of how much those bastards weigh?
my toyota weighs 4k. and those s10 blazers are definitely more heavy than a 4runner, half of my truck is fiberglass.
it might move it yes, but its not going to be a rocket by any means. i even have the infamous 3.0 in my truck, and the only reasons i havent taken out yet is:
1.) it runs too good
2.) its not broken
3.) i cant find a suitable diesel replacement that wont be absolutely gutless.
and i cant think a 1.5 with four thousand pounds of chevy around it would be very happy, or go very fast. it would work the guts out of the poor little 1.5. lol, these engines came in cars that weighed between 1600 and 2000 lbs. say you doubled the HP output of the engine, or even bumped it up to a honest 100 hp. its still going to be exactly as fast as it were in the car in stock form.
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1.5 into an S10 isn't something I'd do either... the TDI would be happier, but neither engine is really going to be even remotely ideal. That S10 wouldn't haul anything any longer, with the 1.5 in it...
In all honesty, I'd say find yourself a nice military surplus 6.2, or better one of the earlier 6.5 GM V8s to shoehorn in there. Either one of them would be much happier in that environment, and they aren't bad engines; just fairly gutless next to the 7.3 Fords and 5.9 Cummins they inevitably struggled to compete with.
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Agreed. The 1.5 will work much better in the Radio Flyer.
The 58hp Suzuki diesel s10 must have only existed in California. I bet there weren't many made, and probably even fewer still in operation. The engine is listed in the shop manual for the s10.
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You see Perkins 4-cylinders on ebay every now and then. Various sizes from 2.5-4-ish liters. Some turbo some not. The newer versions, (which I can't remember the series now) even meet a lot of emissions requirements. They are rated low hp output but usually their rated hp is for genset or hydraulic applications where the rpm's are low. I'm sure they could handle some tweaking and more rpm's. I'm still on the "holy grail" search for a smallish-diesel engine for a small truck/utility vehicle (Jeep in my case, though I got rid of mine) that is plentiful, and powerful enough to drive it like a normal car or even tow/haul with it. The Cummins 4BT is just too damn big and heavy and the VW variants (that we have in the US) are too small.
Brendan
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Nice Ride! I always wanted a TDI Radio Flyer. :P
LAWL
Thanks for the encouragement Lord_V. I'm really having to move with this as it had transitioned into the -getting yelled at- phase. That's mostly gone away now that some paint is down.
Would my 1.5 have enough power to push a mid 80s s10 Blazer with a k04 & turbo pump added? I see that those trucks had an optional 2.2L Isuzu diesel engine that put out 58HP... It would need mount fab and trans adapter plate? My dad's '84 came with the "powerful" 2.8L V6 that puts down 110HP/148lbs and gets between 13-18MPG. The emissions vacuum on the thing is a horribly twisted nightmare.
I know all about the getting yelled at in that phase of a project. Around 1971 I got a 57 Chevy 2 door hard-top with no engine or transmission with a perfect body and all primed with all the trim peices for $200, that's about all they were worth at that time not running. I had just gotten married and didn't have a pot to piss in and my Step Dad got after me to get it done or get it out of the garage downstairs because I had everything tied up and don't blame him. I actualy ended up giving that 57 2 door hard-top away back then but like I said before they were a dime a dozen at that time. The trouble is back then most of us gear-heads didn't have the necessary dime when we needed one. Look at it like this, what's a 15 year old Caprice worth today with no drive train, next to nothing. I guess it was for the best anyway back then, my marriage would have probably ended about 2 years sooner than it did. I did make it to 3 though and in the end I had a Vega and 2 kids. I still have the kids ;D
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You see Perkins 4-cylinders on ebay every now and then. Various sizes from 2.5-4-ish liters. Some turbo some not. The newer versions, (which I can't remember the series now) even meet a lot of emissions requirements. They are rated low hp output but usually their rated hp is for genset or hydraulic applications where the rpm's are low. I'm sure they could handle some tweaking and more rpm's. I'm still on the "holy grail" search for a smallish-diesel engine for a small truck/utility vehicle (Jeep in my case, though I got rid of mine) that is plentiful, and powerful enough to drive it like a normal car or even tow/haul with it. The Cummins 4BT is just too damn big and heavy and the VW variants (that we have in the US) are too small.
Brendan
when you figure it out, let me know.
and if i figure it out before you, ill share my results also.
i have a few toyotas here that could stand to have their gas hearts ripped and replaced with oil burners.
i kinda toyed with the idea of a D24 in a yota, but never made anything materialize.
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Still working on this thing. Finally got around to installing replacement struts. Now to install motor ;D Need to find a TDI pedal cluster. Here are a couple shots from painting front panels a few weeks ago:
prep
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/unpainted.jpg)
pre-clear
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/painted.jpg)
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090927/hinges.jpg)
Visited podunk scrapyard for straight hood hinges and other body-related items. Their 2 rabbits were stacked on top of dodge stratuses stacked on rims, which made for fun jungle-style access only. Also picked up drive by wire pedal.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090927/hinges2.jpg)
De-oxidized and protected
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090927/engine_trans.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090927/crank2.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/090927/crank.jpg)
Pulled pan on the TDI. Guts look healthy -- 7/97?
To do:
-figure out dash/cluster setup -- my dash is crackeddddd
-Chop IP bracket mount for TDI fit
-Install tranny on engine; install in car
-New CV boots, reinstall axles
-Run power to donor fuse panel [lazy] -or- migrate lighting/cig/tank sender/etc. wiring to new box
-1 or 2 more coats of clear; Polish
-Install exterior trim
-Misc. interior tweaks: sunroof, headliner, etc.
My rabbit has a hood and fenders again. It almost looks like a real car
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So I've finally made some progress on this project.
Modified mount/belt cover plate:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/091121/mount.jpg)
I really wish I had a load leveler.. Had to remove hood of course
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/091121/lifting.jpg)
In!
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/091121/bay.jpg)
I'm a little concerned with how close the waterpump pulley is to the frame. It doesn't rub, but it's really close. Might require some modding.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/091121/waterpump.jpg)
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/091121/hood.jpg)
Now to sort out the wiring and begin endless cosmetic tweaks
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looooking goooood :) Congrats on everything so far.
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i cant wait to see some full boost burn outs...
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After re-aligning the back transmission mount the water pump pulley is nowhere near hitting the frame. Been rebuilding axles, installing lighting, trim, etc. More photos to come
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oh man, so close to some full boost brodies...
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After re-aligning the back transmission mount the water pump pulley is nowhere near hitting the frame. Been rebuilding axles, installing lighting, trim, etc. More photos to come
I read that as "installing lightning" the first time I read it, and thought that you were taking the TDI install just a little too seriously. :P
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"rebuilt" axles:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/100106/axles_rebuilt.jpg)
in
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/100106/axles_in.jpg)
Rebuilt shift linkage. For some reason installing axles in this thing with the engine/transmission already in as a unit was a real PITA. I had to unhook one of the mounts and tilt the engine to get the pass. side axle to connect.
My engine came with half of a downpipe, so I am fabbing the other half that connects to the flex pipe. Then it's on to wiring, and finally, driving. Progress has been slow lately due to lack of garage and abnormally cold/snowy weather.
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100131/downpipe.jpg)
my ghetto welded downpipe
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100131/emblem.jpg)
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the d/p is temporary right? that flex section is grossly restrictive, it goes down to around 1" in places.
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the d/p is temporary right? that flex section is grossly restrictive, it goes down to around 1" in places.
Ya... My goal at this point is just to get the car drivable.
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put some fuel in a bottle and run a line from it directly to the pump and try that. it's easy to do and will eliminate your fuel supply system. crack your injector lines while it's running and see if the cylinders drop out if they are all firing your black and white smoke is probably injection timing
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prothe door handle fail:
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100202/handle.jpg)
At least my old handle was in decent shape and I was able to slug in the new lock. Hey, $15 for new chrome inserts and a matching set of locks still isn't a bad deal.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100202/wires.jpg)
Let the carnage begin!
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seeing that last pic, i would run far, far away from that mess of medusa...
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(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100210/fusebox.jpg)
So I was able to get everything organized and tagged - and it's all ready to go into the car, but now I'm seriously considering going mTDI instead. I'm liking the idea of mTDI because:
-Cluster swap is extra work/fab. The mTDI setup wouldn't have a tach, but the speedo would still work, and there are aftermarket tachs a plenty. Swapping to the TDI cluster means getting a unit to convert speedometer output from my dinky old 5sp
-No pedal swap/throttle cable removal
-Lots of work left to port the fuse box into th car
I'm thinking I'll go ahead and continue with the electronics transplant -- going back is always possible.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100210/intercooler_fit.jpg)
Going to use the one on the right or the stock TDI IC. The Volvo IC isn't going to fit without serious core support/panel cutting.
(http://www.drrtybyl.com/img/rabbit/100210/intercooler.jpg)