VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Jettage1 on September 28, 2008, 06:34:03 pm
-
This is on my '92 ECO Diesel...
The part in question is a small plastic copper-lined tube with a 2-wire connector. Located in-line on the rubber hose that connects the fresh air intake duct to the "PCV" valve on the valve cover.
I did do some looking in my Bentley but so far have come up empty. Anyone know what this sensor does? Maybe something to do with air temp???
Thanks in advance!
Steve
-
Your engine will look a little different, but do you mean "A" in this picture ?
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/enginecompartment.jpg)
If so, it's a small in-line heater:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1674&highlight=crankcase+heater
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3156&highlight=crankcase+heater
-
Yes! It is similar to the "A" in your pic and the links you attached make sense.
Thanks Vince! You were spot on.
Steve
-
I wonder if that thing ever goes. I think I will check it today.
-
I don't know... The Bentley manual doesn't seem to even mention it. Is it always on? Guess I'll do some checking with a voltmeter...
-
I just bought a 91 echo and was wondering the same thing the links don't work anymore does anyone have any more info on this part and why you would need to heat the crank case fumes? ???
-
There is a pressure drop as the crankcase fumes enter the intake. The crankcase is mildly pressurized and intake between the filter and compressor is a negative pressure area. There is also a fair amount of water vapor in the crank vent fumes as one of the combustion byproducts. Just as compressing a gas will make it hotter, decompressing it will make it colder. That drop in the temperature of the crankcase fumes as they enter the intake can cause the water vapor to freeze in colder weather sending ice crystals through your turbo. The little heater warms those gases enough to avoid that situation.
-
Good info do you know. How I check it to see if it still is working after 23 years. Also I was wondering if anyone is using a oil can for the PCV fumes insted of reintroducing them back to the engine? I do this on my 7.3 in my F250. The car I bought has 230K on it, and a bit of blow-by would it hurt to do this?
-
Plenty of info on that, just do a search here or Google "blow-by catch can". A few have posted issues with the engine running away as an incorrect install can suck oil. There's a fix for that as well.
-
Good info do you know. How I check it to see if it still is working after 23 years. Also I was wondering if anyone is using a oil can for the PCV fumes insted of reintroducing them back to the engine? I do this on my 7.3 in my F250. The car I bought has 230K on it, and a bit of blow-by would it hurt to do this?
Plug it up to 12v and see if the copper gets war, I'd think.
As for the catch can, you can run one and still have the PCV gasses re-enter the intake hose. Just get a catch can that has a filtered outlet; that way your PCV gases stay in the tank and the air doesn't get dumped into the bay to dirty things up. Some even have one-way valved returns to the crankcase; search "Provent catch can" for more info on that; it's a nice piece.