VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Goat on September 11, 2008, 07:08:05 pm
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Yup.. it takes a lot of talent to do it, but it's good as done. Any suggestions to getting it out so I can maybe one day drive the car I've been slaving over for months?
I'm so mad I can't believe I have the composure to write this...
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What do you mean "get it out"? Did you round off the head or strip the threads of the block?
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I rounded a head off at a junkyard one time. I gave up on the engine. Had it happened in my driveway I would have drilled the head of the bolt off and just lifted the head off as if it was stud.
Obviously you would need to be very mindful of the metal shavings
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you could try an easy out it's a drill bit the spins counterclockwise. The friction of the drilling eventually leads to the bolt spinning itself out of the block. Just be careful not to break it as there very hard and almost impossible to remove if sheared off.
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I like the 12pt method. I've used it before on smaller but siezed applications. I used a torques socket. post again if you don't have any luck, i can imagine how frustrating this can be.
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if its a rounded head, you can use a nut extractor set, looks kinda like a socket but with cutting edges inside so when you turn the ratchet to loosen nut it grips the rounded nut head. I saw a post on here not long ago but can't find it now... anyway you can pick up a set at Sears ( craftsman )
good luck
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I did it the first time I did a head gasket, I didn't have the pt. tool and was using a torx bit that fit. I couldn't fit a bolt extractor in it. I used an air chisel to spin it out. I was nevous about damging the head, but it came right out.
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I had lost my Tripple Square 12mm bit too, so I used a torq bit. I had it snap too on the 3rd bolt.
I went to Sears and if you go there, they will let you order their tripple square bit for $9.95 online from the store's PC and you don't pay shipping. It came about 3 days later. When I used it to remove all the other bolts first, then for the one I stripped, I tapped it to the bottom of the stripped bolt head with a brass hammer. This worked and it removed the bolt w/o any other tricks. The tool was unharmed and the damaged bolt was used to make an alignment stud.
No, I don't reuse these stretched head bolts on a VW again, but I'm a cheap skate so I use them for other projects ;-P
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Yeah I stripped the head out because I used a torx bit. I was so excited to get the head off that I didn't think everything out clearly.
Arb,
What you're saying is I should take a real triple-square bit, and hammer it down into the rounded bolt and back it out like normal? I tried the socket over the bolt method, and it works with driveshaft bolts, but not in this case... If anything else I'll try the nut extractor.
When cracking these headbolts, is it normal to hear a sharp metal-on-metal EE-EE-EE sound? I think the previous owner may have over-tightened.
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Goat that sound is normal...and not good feeling too! My TDI and a fellow AAZ er's head did the same sound. I think it has something to do with the VW bolts.
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Yes, I suggest you get a tripple square and wack it into the stripped head before you do anything more. It worked for me. You can get them at most local auto parts stores. Take one of the bolts with you.
You could use an air chissle like the others have if you want to say $10.
But, are you going to use the Cogsworth studs or the factory 12mm bolts? If you use bolts, you'll need the tripple square anyway. I didn't want to wait for the studs, so I got the bolts locally. Remember, you can't reuse them anyway as they stretch when torqued correctly ( your noise you heard when they let go)
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don't forget to loosen the bolts in the proper sequence... apparently you can actually warp the head if you don't :shock: and yea that screetching noise seems to be normal. i guess after a while all the oil burns off.
hope you can get it out without too much effort... one of those rounded off nut removers should work :wink:
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here is what i was talking about earlier... http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15829
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just thought i'd add that these bolts are great for use on an engine stand :wink: they fit right into the block
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here is what i was talking about earlier... http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15829
Yes, drive these over the OD of the head bolt.
as previously mentioned, I also use a std 12 pt socket (not triple square) and drive it over the OD head of bolt. thus you are broaching a spline on the OD of the head. I have to use this technique frequently on the allen head bolts on Crankshaft and WP pulleys.
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here is what i was talking about earlier... http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15829
first thing I thought of when I read the thread. I've used these on engine bolts a previous owner stripped they work (at least for me) great! Hammer it on to the bolt and it works in a similar fashion to an easy out, tightens up on the bolt as you loosen it.
Be sure you have a vice and pin punch to get the bolt out of it though.
-Todd
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augh i HATE the screeching sounds the head bolts make
*shivers*
thank god i got studs
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I didn't think there would be room for one of those inside the head, good to know
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here is what i was talking about earlier... http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15829
Wow cool! A trip to Sears is in order, tomorrow. I think I'm going to have the head checked by my machine shop and make sure everything is level.. once it's off.
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So I went to Sears and shelled out $40 for some low-profile female easy-outs. I bring them back home, only to find out the only one that fits over the head bolt (#10) is too big to fit in the galley.
I took a 1/2 inch drill bit and drilled out the head, dipping the bit in motor oil every five seconds or so. When the head gave up, I used a socket wrench to drive an easy out, taking the rest of the bolt out very easily.
So the driver's side of the head will lift off the deck, but the belt-side is not so willing. I disconnected the oil line for the turbo, and I don't see anything else holding it on. Help? :lol:
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Head studs out
oil line on the TOP of the turbo
oil RETURN line on the BACKKK of the turbo off? (DONT forget this one!) need a big wrench for it where it goes to the oil pan. easy to get at but a BIG ONE i use a crecent on it. Monkey wrench the first time i took it off. It's a torqued cocksucker!!! also gets hot so... really REAF on it but make sure you're turning the right way, its kinda confusing it screws onto the part that comes out of the oil pan
If you've already done this then my suggestion is, as my dearest wrenchin bud says: BFH!!! (Big F*ahem*ing Hammer!!!)
but it sounds like you forgots the oil return for the turbooo
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You did take the tensioner off right?
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Haha no I left the tensioner on, as well as the bolts that hold the IP bracket to the inner timing cover, AND the top turbo oil line! It's all off now, and I discovered that some of the passages in the HG look like they've been blocked with sealant.
I need to know: how do you determine the headgasket sizing? Is it by the two holes on the front?
Also: My head is mechanical, right?
Pictures:
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/MTZrabbit/P9160012.jpg)