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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: mtnbob on September 11, 2008, 05:21:45 pm
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I knew something was wrong from the thumping noise, but when I checked out today, I noticed the outer boot was completely gone. The tuned absorber had slipped down closer to the wheel, and I believe was the source of the noise. It didn't sound like the standard clicking noise at all. When I do a tight circle with the car, there is no clicking at all. My question is, can I just take the shaft out, clean up the joint area, regrease the joint, and put a new boot on it? Also how hard is it to remove the hex bolts? Any suggestions or tricks that would help me on removal of the shaft? Any input is appreciated!! 8)
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My question is, can I just take the shaft out, clean up the joint area, regrease the joint, and put a new boot on it?
Yes. But some will argue that if its missing the boot dirt and water will have ruined the joing. Its a matter of opinion.
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On my other cars, when the CV joint starts going, it starts clicking. This one is not, so that is why I'm wondering if I can clean it, regrease it, and put a new boot on. Do VW CV joints start clicking, first mildly, then worse, when they start going bad?
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There's no reason you can't try to repack it. Just made sure the bearings and races aren't scored.
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Also how hard is it to remove the hex bolts?
If you are talking about the ones that hold the inner CV to the tranny, those aren't hex bolts. They are 8mm 12pt internal bolts. Make sure you get the right tool, sometimes called triple square (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_Square_screws)
They aren't too bad with an impact. Long extensions (like 3 feet worth) is pretty much manditory on the passanger side
I think you could just repack it and go if ti isn't piled full of grit
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Ty for the info tyler :D Do i need air tools? Is it possible with hand tools alone? It is the passenger side :shock: Guess I better get the PB blaster on there now and let it start soaking 8)
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Sometimes you can't tell if they are junk until you pull the CV apart to clean it.
If I see areas in the outer CV that are eaten away, I replace it.
but if it's not clicking you are probably OK.
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my boots have been broken for over a year but i just check them to make sure they still hold lots of grease. No clicking yet...
well made parts i guess?
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If it was a japanese or american car i would say almost for sure it is toast, however if it's the original or german replacement just repack it and you'll probably be okay.
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If it was a japanese or american car i would say almost for sure it is toast, however if it's the original or german replacement just repack it and you'll probably be okay.
I beg to differ, I owned a '91 GMC Jimmy 4X4 and driver's side boot was torn for close to a year before I had to take the hub off for a bearing, and I loved off roading thru the mud up to the doors :twisted:
but, Caveman, you have nothing to loose in cleaning and repacking the old joint, worts case scenario is that il won't last and you'll have to replace it.
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I simply want to add that I hope you are planning on disassembling the joint and looking over the cage and balls and inner joint machined "races." A lot depends on just how dry it all got and what shape the joint was in to begin with.
Then, you need to decide if you are interested in long-term or short-term "fix." It's one of those learning-curve issues.
It is true that, once again, the German work ethic of heat treatment comes into play here. Just how good was the carbon infusion process that they used. Cheaper joints will wear through their thinner hardened surface much faster.
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i'm pulling it today if i can find a 8 mm 12 point tool around here :shock: Do i need to buy new bolts? or just reuse them if i don't destroy them getting them off
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i'm pulling it today if i can find a 8 mm 12 point tool around here :shock: Do i need to buy new bolts? or just reuse them if i don't destroy them getting them off
i've re-used them, but i think in the bentley it says to use new bolts... i highly recommend cleaning the bolts before putting them back in though. so much grease and grime on mine when i took them off (because the surrounding area was pretty grimey)
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Anyone here have a source for the bolts and tool? No one around here has either
:shock:
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i'd say just re-use the bolts. they're around what, 33ft/lbs torque each? mine are fine and i just gave good and tight, then a wee bit more.
our local NAPA here sells them. about $8
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Sorry for all the questions, but i'm a rookie :shock: finally found a 8mm 12pt and it fits into my 8mm socket, but is there a way to keep the axel from turning when you try to unloosen the bolts? :(
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Put it in gear perhaps?
that may seem obvious to me but maybe im the one confused and you're talking about something entirely different. or maybe im an idiot.
I'd use an impact gun if you have access to one. Best and sometimes worst tools in the world.
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I don't think putting it in gear works because of the diff and one tire being off the ground.
Step on the brakes, or have a friend do that. Or use a piece of wood wedged against the seat and the brake pedal.
I just use an impact gun (electric) best $75 I ever spent
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Bob, leave one wheel on the ground.
Lay on your back with the car jacked and safely blocked (no falls) loosen one or two bolts.
Reach up and use the shift rod from the shifter to take it out of gear. Rotate axle/wheel to get to next bolt or bolts.
Put it back in gear......wash, rinse, repeat, go back to Walmart and get more!!!!
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i used an impact gun to remove them. very easy! tightening them was easy as well.
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75$ electric impact gun? What is this tom foolery...
the only electril impact i saw was like 400$
where on earth did you find that. Does it have enough torque?
Please PM me im interested... perhaps ill just pm you
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MtnBob,
With "last leg" axles like you have. I put a good set of vice-grips on the axle shaft so that it is resting against the control arm. to keep the axle from turning.
But impact wrenches are the way to go, even the old fashioned hand ones like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P
Is better than just trying to do them by hand.
VelocityConservation
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They come on sale at Candian Tire a few times a year. There aren't a lot of bolts that it can't take off. It does take a while though. I wouldn't mind a bit more torque but for the price, 100% worthwhile
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I have now sheared off the screw that goes into the brake rotor :shock:
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No worries... there was a 90% chance that was going to happen... especially if the screw was original (no antiseize).
You can either live without it (makes it a tiny bit more of a challenge when installing your wheels since the brake rotor will not automatically be aligned with the hub), or drill it out and install a new one... 75 cents from the dealer.
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thanks for the reply wasn't sure if it was completely necessary :shock:
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My first 3 VWs all had that screw completely snapped off before I bought them. I didn't even know it existed until the 4th one :lol: