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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: catlin_cava on September 01, 2008, 08:00:14 pm
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Does the Cold Start Cable need to be connected?
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yep! helps in starting when not at operating temp!
Duane
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yes the new car manual states this on a new daily start up.
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ok, if there an easy way to connect that cable, because it drove me crazy :evil: trying to hook it up
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easy? lol! ahhh removeing the injection pump. easy for me yes. time consuming yes. actually if i ever remove another glo plug i will remove the pump, mark my word. back on track you need one of those long craftsman screw drivers and 3 fingers and maybe some wd40 for that little screw.
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Using a little telescopic, pencil sized magnet helps to establish the desired position and maintain the position of the "holed" retaining screw.
It also helps with the large washer behind the clip which holds the cable in the large rubber eyelet on the pump. Patience and fine motor skills are prerequisites.
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Just for kicks, anyone know where to buy a cold start cable assembly?
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post it in the wanted section someone may have a extra car sitting around with one.
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Here's a thought to consider: are the cold start device cables different between early- and late-style 1.6L TD injection pumps? Early pumps only have 1 position while later pumps also have the fast-idle position. Are the 2 positions solely a feature of the injection pumps?
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I removed the cable on my AAZ swap and It starts just fine. 8)
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I removed the cable on my AAZ swap and It starts just fine. 8)
until what temp outside?
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I only run it into the fall, but I've started it no probs down to 10 degrees F.
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Buddy, I'm in Northern New Brunswick...Tempatures go down below -50 with the windchill...you use eather to start gas motors...Any tips on starting a diesel in that cold?
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A block heater if you have a power source.
A manual switch to run glow plugs.
Battery blanket.
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what about the fuel then? when does it get to cold for it, or what do you people do when it gets below 0 to the fuel to keep it from gelin?
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Wally world sells anti gelling additive. Or any auto parts store OR a truck stop.
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zukgod1 do you drive yours in the winter? will it start not plugged in for 8hrs while at work? i can plug in at home not at work.
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in extreme weather, you need to add the diesel fuel anti-gel addative to the tank, but I bet at -50 you'll still have so much wax it will not run for more than a few minutes.
A garage would be the best solution. If you can't do that, and it really is -50 you'll have to find a way to keep the fuel lines and tank above 0 F.
Maybe you slap a Tanis heater on your tank http://www.tanisaircraft.com/heaters.html
and add a "T" between the filter and the IP, and another one after the IP fuel return line. Between these 2 "T"'s add an electric fuel pump
(http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/jcwhitney/images/imagecache/G_21049G_SW_1.gif;pv123bf015bb7e53eb) - JC Whitney ZX277501 - pumping from the filter to the tank and a fuel shut-ff valve for when you drive the car. (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/graphics/6749.jpg) Aircraft Spruce # 6749.
Power it with a 12v supply - (http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/jcwhitney/images/imagecache/G_22560G_SW_1.jpg) Whitney # ZX295810
When you stop for the night, plug in block heater, plug in the tanis heater, open the fuel shut-off valve, plug in the charger. This will keep your tank, lines, filter, IP, from gelling up. It should start easily once you put it back to the driving positions. maybe you wire all 120V through a GFI to one cord.
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I'm going to have to look at something for our beautiful winters....where in 4 hours you get 2 feet of snow...and tempatures vary 40C
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Good compression, good glow plugs, good oil, good battery = no problem starting in Edmonton at -35C
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Good compression, good glow plugs, good oil, good battery = no problem starting in Edmonton at -35C
Add "good diesel" to that list, too? Or just lots of anti-gel?
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The Station I'd be fueling at ALL the time, we never had a problem with the diesel in our tractor...and shes a beast to try adn start in cold weather...
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most cold climates have "winter" fuel with plenty of anti-gel in the fuel all ready.
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Well, for me winter time has always been a matter of using #1 diesel in various ratios as needed. I would mix my own ratio ("guesstimations") based upon how cold the weather was predicted to be. Back then, I was driving A LOT and was constantly replacing tankfulls of fuel at least every other day.
I accomplished this by purchasing the fuel at places which have the two choices (#1 and #2) at the same pump. I would begin my fill-up with taking on how-ever-much #1 I thought was going to be necessary to keep the tank liquid. Then, top off the rest with #2.
Once it becomes a habit, it doesn't seem like so much of an inconvenience. However, I bet I would pee my pants to look at the cost of #1 right now!!
I personally never had luck with additives no matter how I mixed them. I also never trust the ratios which are written on "winterized" fuel. I used to see my Rabbit sitting in the frost with a frozen tank on "winterized" fuel.
A true 50-50% mix or 60-40 % (more #1) would allow me to get going at -20 F. Of course, a block heater and battery blanket (household heating pad) were necessary. Along with lighter oil.
Don't get me wrong. True winterime is a challenge with these. That is why I always kept at least one gasser at the ready.
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Good compression, good glow plugs, good oil, good battery = no problem starting in Edmonton at -35C
Add "good diesel" to that list, too? Or just lots of anti-gel?
In my region there's no issues with getting properly winterized diesel.... I have a jerry can that sits outside just for fun and I've yet to see wax... lucky I guess.
I *do* run Stanadyne year-round, but for lubrication and celtane rather than anti-gel.