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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: mainer on August 20, 2008, 07:52:38 pm
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i've got a 90 jetta with a 85 1.6 td swapped in.
80k with 40 over pistons fresh 2 notch gasket (had a 1 notch) and new stretch bolts.
has a k24 turbo.
i turned the max fuel screw up about 1/3 turn and sligthly adjust the start wheel/ boost pin. it now smokes quite a bit and i'm guessing i'm only seeing the stock boost of 10 psi.
what can i do to get some more psi out of it? T into the metal line going to the wastegate?? or is it possible to just adjust the wastegate. what is the same boost limit?
thanks
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I have heard 15-20 is safe. im shooting for 25 to see what happens.
You know....with studs in your cummins, you should be able to push 40-45 psi or so........ :D
I know those motors inside and out....the vw's i am just learning.
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don't forget to block off the blow off valve. there is an adjustment screw that you can screw right in....
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don't forget to block off the blow off valve. there is an adjustment screw that you can screw right in....
You can't screw it down enough to close it completely and screwing it in only makes it change about 2 PSI. You have to take the screw out, find a short allen screw that will drop down the hole. Put the small allen in the hole, CAREFULLY re-thread the screw in, and tighten it down againsts the smaller screw, and then it will be locked shut.
If you have a pre-turbo EGT measurement, and a full 2.5" exhauste proceede as follows
With a K24, the screw in the waste gate dash pot does very little, but you can successfully screw the waste gate shut with it, which will get you 30+ PSI.
The easyiest way to get more boost is to back out the banjo bolt on the waste gate line. Fill it with copper permatex. let it cure. Unscrew the line at the waste gate, and leave it loose. Put the permatex filled banjo bolt back in and snug it down.
The waste gate will blow open at 20 to 25 psi from pressure on the valve.
I recomend putting the fuel screw back to where it was, and rotate the boost pin to 3/4 of the ramp. Take it for a drive and see how you like it.
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and rotate the boost pin to 3/4 of the ramp
Sorry, which is this?
I turned my fuel screw and drove a little but learned the concequences. (thankfully no damage) What is the boost pin of the ramp? i don't understand what you mean by ramp or boost pin?
Sorry I don't know the in's and out's of the IP
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If you look at this (http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8646) post over at the vwdieselparts.com forums in Fig. #1 item #8 is the boost pin. The write up explains how the LDA works.
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Ohhhhhhhhh okay
so turn it CW or CCW?
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If you look at the pin, the slope of the cut changes as you rotate the pin. When you take the cover off the LDA and look at the top of it there is a dot (I don't remember what the color of the dot is, it might be white or silver) and that dot is exactly opposite of the steepest slope of the pin. If you turn the pin so the dot is towards the passenger side of the car you will be on the shallowest slope of the pin and conversely if you put the dot to the drivers side of the car you will be on the steepest slope of the pin. I would put it so it is towards the back of the car and maybe a little towards the drivers side and see how the car responds.
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Hmmm
Alright. So that nut on the top over the stud with the allan head... leave that alone?
Can you run me through what to do briefly. I know if you try to take the nut off the top the whole thing spins and from the diagram it looks like that changes protrusion of this pin we're talking about onto the cone? or does it just hold everything together quite innocently...
How should I go about turning this pin?
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The nut on the top of the LDA just sets the starting point for where the boost pin is, it doesn't rotate the pin. The post over at vwdieselparts.com forums has an excerpt from the Bosch VE Pump manual that I posted and it explains exactly what parts of the LDA do what.
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On eBay for $9.00.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/stewardc/BC-T1-BL-1.gif)
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steward you got a link to that controller? thats nicer than the 5buck flea bay special i bought!
Duane
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http://cgi.ebay.ca/Turbo-Boost-Controller-Kit-EVO-STi-240SX-300ZX-G35-G20_W0QQitemZ300250729997QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Turbo-Boost-Controller-1-30-Psi-240sx-S13-S14-350z-B_W0QQitemZ180277979346QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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perfic thanks stew!
Duane
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I think I'll install one of these, myself. 2-stage baby
http://agpturbo.com/product.php?productid=16157&cat=255&page=1
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yea but i would always be on high boost ! so no need for something elaborate for me!
Duane
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ASctually, the ones I posted are bleed-type and not the best. These are the better type.
http://store.jdm-spec.com/tuxsstboco.html
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=97
http://www.eagleday.com/tuboco.html
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so i dont know if i getting this wrong but cant i just put a valve between the wastgate and the turbo? from what i understand you have to do that other thing with adding a screw in the wasgate, i see 20PSI all the time should i not worry bout it???
OH and i have my pin looking towards the back of the car and it still smokes quite a bit if i go in to low a gear and get on it the more goes away when my boost comes up its very minimul when in boost how come when ya see some guys cars in boost there a thinck black cloud mine has never done that and if it was thinck like that in boost wouldnt it be imposible to drive just around town as soon as you gave it alitle gas and boost wasnt on yet you would be pouring and i getting this right?
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i have a AAZ and my IP doesnt have a spar wheel that im awear of
just a boost pin its set at half right now but i dont want to back it off so that im starving for fuel in full boost and my pump was just rebuilt and he said that he set it to factory or on the high end of factory i turned up the pump maybe 1/8 of a turn that would do much would it???
i want it to be steep when in full boost but dont want the smoke in low boost...
am i asking for to much...... i never see more then 1300-1350 EGT so im no im not flooding it......
what should i do i want max fuel in high boost but dont want to flood the guy behind me just driving around and i give it alittle extra gas and black him out
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so i dont know if i getting this wrong but cant i just put a valve between the wastgate and the turbo?
No, you have to have a T fitting with the valve on the T's empty leg, the closer to the actuator, the better. A valve just inline will only slow the reaction time of the actuator as it does nothing for pressure, just volume. You need to reduce the pressure to fool the actuator into making more boost.
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how do i do this ya just have a T with a screw that i screw in and it makes more boost........
what do i need to do i dont want to make crazy boost but if im doing simething wrong i want to be corrected
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how do i do this ya just have a T with a screw that i screw in and it makes more boost........
what do i need to do i dont want to make crazy boost but if im doing simething wrong i want to be corrected
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/stewardc/BC-T1-BL-1.gif)
Take this for example. The T goes in the line between the turbo and actuator. The leg of the T goes to the valve. the other leg of the valve goes to the air. You can adjust the valve as you drive to bleed more or less pressure off. If for example, the actuator normally opens the wastegate at 9 psi, and you are bleeding some of the air from the line, then the turbo will have to make more than 9 psi before the actuator sees 9 psi. If the valve is all the way closed, it will act like it did with no bleed on it at all. that is how you want to start out. Then slowly unscrew it until you get to the max boost you want.
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so lets say i prchase a kit like that will i notice any differnce>>>
is it easyer on the turbo??