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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 53 willys on August 02, 2008, 11:20:30 am
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So what would a guy need for a conversion like this??
seems like it would be really easy right?
I have been looking ALL over the place and can not find ANYBODY who has converted a gasser to a 1.6td..do you all have any links to a conversion like this?
what about...
the motor mounts are the same?
the TD's only need a 12v source to run?
trannys are the same or atleast interchangeable??
what about the gasser wiring harness vs the diesel??
can I just hack out what I dont need on the gas harness
what about check engine lights
what about the diesel instrument cluster/ will I need to change my cluster?
thanks for ANY help or info you guys or gals have 8)
Mark
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Lots of folks have swapped gas engines for diesels in the VW world. For a Mk1 or Mk2, prior to the more involved computerized controls, it's as simple as removing the gasoline engine, putting the diesel engine in, bolting it up, and doing a bit of plumbing and wire-sorting.
You will need a single switched 12v source for the injection pump's fuel stop solenoid; use terminal 15 from the coil for this purpose, as it's on at the appropriate times.
If you have CIS of any ilk, remove the high pressure pump, accumulator and filter assembly from the underside of the car. Run new fuel hoses from the fuel tank pickup to the hard lines running under the car. You'll install a new fuel filter mount and filter under the hood of the car.
If you would like, you can use the CIS in-tank low pressure pump as a "lift" pump, but you will need to devise some way to lower its delivery pressure to within 5psi. Any higher and you could possibly alter the injection pump's internal timing. If you don't want to mess with this, delete the in-tank pump and run a diesel fuel tank pickup.
You can open up the wiring harness and cut out all that you aren't using, but I'd recommend just tying it back unless you really want to get involved in a project. Without the computer the connectors won't do anything, so it's not really a big deal.
You'll need to wire up a sub-harness for the glow plugs. I'd suggest using the Vince Waldon's Pimped Glow Plugs (http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28) method, it's nice, its easy, and he explains it quite well.
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thanks for the GREAT info!! that helps a ton!
newbie question???
what is CIS?
and ilk??
could I get rid of ALL the fuel pumps and just use this pump/air separator/filterhttp://www.pureflowtechnologies.com/AirDog.htm
then I could have an all in one unit.
or should I just get this pump and run it to the stock filter and then to the IP??http://www.pureflowtechnologies.com/Raptor.htm
or just source a stock diesel set-up??
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thanks for the GREAT info!! that helps a ton!
newbie question???
what is CIS?
and ilk??
CIS is the mechanical fuel injection setup used by VW through the Mid/Late 70s, the 80s and into the very, very early 90s. With a '91, you might have Digifant, which I have no experience with. Others will need to chime in on that topic.
If you open your hood and you have what look like 4 braided stainless lines running from a boxish thing with your airfilter to the cylinder head at the intake manifold, you have CIS of some type.
Ilk is just a synonym for type.
Sourcing a stock diesel setup would be the simplest solution for your fuel system. Fuel pick up and filter mount.
The VW diesel doesn't need a lift pump, it's there more for convenience: filling the fresh fuel filter, putting a little positive pressure on the line to prevent air from being pulled in, that sort of deal. The vane pump inside the IP is strong enough to pull fuel from the tank without issues.
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thanks for your help buddy!
I am getting real excited about this conversion! should be pretty easy.(famous last words LOL)
what about the radiator?? should I source one from another VW diesel or get some other brand or?????
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thanks for your help buddy!
I am getting real excited about this conversion! should be pretty easy.(famous last words LOL)
what about the radiator?? should I source one from another VW diesel or get some other brand or?????
On that one I'm not sure. I had a Dasher diesel radiator on hand when I converted my Fox wagon, so I went ahead and swapped. You'll have to ask around and see what other folks are doing for radiators. They seemed to be the same core size, so I don't know if it was necessary or not in my case.
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I know a guy who has done this to alot of vw trucks. He told me that there is something to do with the a/c and non a/c radiators are a little different, but he uses whatever is in there. I believe and I could be wrong, but the gas with a/c is the same as the diesel radiators. The gas non a/c is different. If I remember correctly he said the gas non a/c didn't return to the resivior from the top....Like I said IIRC and if he was correct in the first place.
At any rate for the function of cooling I do know that he said either one has always worked for him.
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so I will probably want to freshen this IDI engine up some before I install it...I do plan to turn this baby up for some more HP...what mods should I do to the engine before I reinstall it??
I was going to do FULL ARP's on everything
mains
rod bolts
headstuds
oil pump bolts
ring gearbolts??
what else should I do??
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Make sure that your refreshment includes all of the various gaskets and seals. For some, like the rear crank main seal, this is the best time to do it. Front crank seal, intermediate and cam shaft seals, might want to think about upgrading to the rubber cam cover gasket.
New head gasket, obviously.
Dunno if you'll actually need the full ARP setup, though. Seems most folks do fine on the stock stuff, just upgrading to headstuds rather than the stock headbolts.
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Before you go any farther you really need to get a Bentley service manual and read the engine chapter, a couple of times.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/moses_bentley.jpg)
With the basics behind you the next step is to read read read, here and www.vwdieselparts.com.
That way you'll benefit from many different perspectives and can pick a course of action... there's no right or wrong to this stuff and a couple of responses to a single post will only give you a fraction. You'll find that your two questions have been asked and answered many times... from many different perspectives.
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*Saves another Bentley/Moses picture.* :D
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thanks for the tips guys!!
where is the best place to get a Bentley service manual??
do you guys think I should do a 1.9 TDI with a mechanical pump???
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Now you're in a completely different relm.
calling jimfoo on the M-TDI stuff and a couple others that have them is your best bet.
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You can borrow my Bentley until you find one 53 willys,
That book has everything you need to know about that car.. :)
Good stuff man..
As per our phone conversation I think you should stick with the 1.6, for no other reason than costs. Finding a good 1.9 for a reasonable price will be hard.
Off we go..!!!!
:twisted:
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You can borrow my Bentley until you find one 53 willys,
That book has everything you need to know about that car.. :)
Good stuff man..
As per our phone conversation I think you should stick with the 1.6, for no other reason than costs. Finding a good 1.9 for a reasonable price will be hard.
Off we go..!!!!
:twisted:
thanks Dan I am super stoked!!
yeah I have been looking around for the 1.9's and they are WAAAY to expensive IMO
I think I will stick to the 1.6 8)
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If you are going to run air conditioning with the diesel engine, you will need a different radiator and hose set-up. And your IN line on the air conditioner will have to be different, I believe.
Plus, you will need the respective brackets as well.
I don't know if your GLI has a hydraulic front motor mount (my GTI does not), but I prefer the floater mount to the standard caged rubber one. You get less of a drone in the cab.
I highly suggest you find a non or poorly running or rusted donor car to look over before you scavenge it for much of the stuff you need.
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If you are going to run air conditioning with the diesel engine, you will need a different radiator and hose set-up. And your IN line on the air conditioner will have to be different, I believe.
Plus, you will need the respective brackets as well.
I don't know if your GLI has a hydraulic front motor mount (my GTI does not), but I prefer the floater mount to the standard caged rubber one. You get less of a drone in the cab.
I highly suggest you find a non or poorly running or rusted donor car to look over before you scavenge it for much of the stuff you need.
so what radiator do I need?? a VW one? or some aftermarket one?
I know summit racing has a ton of aluminum radiators in many sizes...I am sure I can find one to fit??
but if there is a VW one that fits better let me know!
yeah I will be making some trips to the pick and pull! hopefully I can find some stuff there.
Thanks
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Whoa there cowboy! That chassis came from the factory with a TD.
You will need a CE2 cluster from a '90-91 eco-diesel. Thats plug and play.
The radiator you have should suffice. I may have missed something if you said you wanted AC.
I took the 16v out of my Scirocco and put a TD 1.6l in there. Works great!
I have had no problems running the factory in tank pump to supply fuel to the IDI pump.
Pay attention to the Moses pic. He knows what you need.
Wiring is VERY simple. Just need to wire in a glow plug relay and run the black (terminal 15) wire from the coil to the stop solenoid.
If you plan an M-TDI most of this is still applicable. Its just going to cost you a lot more. I would suggest selling your old engine and all of the stuff that goes with it to help compensate for the outgoing money you will need for an M-TDI.
The trans will bolt up fine, but I suggest selling that too. The ratios are going to be all wrong for a TD of any Ilk ;) try getting a wide ratio tranny to go with it. If you plan on having gobs of torque, make sure you rebuild it with at least a bolt kit on the ring gear.
Engine mount will all bolt up. Make sure you use the hydraulic front mount. its kinda spendy as opposed to the other mount, but your GLI should have come with the hydraulic one in the first place.
You will need to modify the filler tube for the gas tank. Your GLI will have a restrictor in there to make sure idiots dont put Diesel (or what we used to have, REgular leaded) in the tank. That restrictor will need to be removed in order to fill up with a Diesel nozzle at the pump.
Like was said before. Eliminate that whole fuel box under the car that contains the fuel pump, fuel pressure accumulator and fuel filter. You wont be needing any of that. Sell it on Ebay. Many MKII owners need that pump for a VR6 swap.
Dont worry about a check engine light as the IDI does not have a computer. Get a dummy switch to replace it with. If you have the CEL in the little window that has the brake and fasten seatbelt light too, then just get one that has no CEL.
HTH
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Ooh man great post!!
I went ahead and ordered a Bentley service manual since it comes so highly recommended!!!
thanks for all the great info...
so YES I would like to have A/C working on this car! will the stock radiator work with the A/C or is that to much heat?
I dont want to spend the cash on the 1.9 conversion...it's gonna be a 1.6TD for sure...I already have the engine and a whole bunch of other parts lined up from my buddy "zukgod1"
I thought I read that the GLI trans was the best trans for the diesel swap?? what trans would be a better choice? years??
what about a source for the cluster??
great info guys!! thanks for all your help!
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I found a used CE2 cluster but i'm not sure if it's the right one??
take a look...is that price good or bad??
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3835051
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never mind that is NOT a diesel cluster....
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Most radiators have the upper hose port pointing straight toward the engine,... the AC alternator setup won't allow this.
For AC; the radiator will have an upper port aiming more toward the passenger side,.. and a long curvey hose, with a small line coming off it heading toward the resevoir.
Can be a spendy hose.
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He is going to need a larger radiator in this climate.
Its been in the 100's here for days and running the A/C is going to compound that problem.
Then I'll bet we end up with a FMIC on there and that will restrict the air flow to the bottom of the rad as well.
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So what would a guy need for a conversion like this??
seems like it would be really easy right?
I have been looking ALL over the place and can not find ANYBODY who has converted a gasser to a 1.6td..do you all have any links to a conversion like this?
You didn't look hard enough, try here (http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=10800). :D
what about...
the motor mounts are the same?
Yes, they are. While you are at it, Think about some Hydraulic Mounts (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3491708). I didn't do them on mine when I swapped but, I should have. They'll be in there eventually.
the TD's only need a 12v source to run?
Yes, One for the glow plugs, wire up a relay or a push button. The fuel cutoff solenoid needs to be hot when key is on, most use the Coil +12V Wire for it.
trannys are the same or atleast interchangeable??
Yes, 16V will be a close ratio transaxle but is probably a 2Y with a 3.67 final drive and 0.91 5th gear. It will bolt up to the engine, It will also have 100MM Axles, use those too. As far as the best transaxle, I love the ASF but, anything with a .75 5th gear and 3.67 Final would be ideal so, AON, ACN, ACL too. When rebuild time comes I'll probably have a .71 5th gear put in the ASF for even lower Highway RPMs. For transaxle codes, gear ratios, and RPM calculations go here (http://www.scirocco.org/gears/)
what about the gasser wiring harness vs the diesel??
can I just hack out what I dont need on the gas harness
what about check engine lights
Totally different. You can hack it up but, it's messy, there will be a ton of extra sensor, computer, and injection wiring. Compare the wiring schematics here (http://www.3dzubehor.com/pages/howto2.html). I swapped the entire harness when I did my swap, glad I did. I have a 98% complete and not totally hacked Jetta CE2 TD harness in a box in my storage unit, it has the fuse box, bracket, Non-Tach Cluster, etc. It is almost all there for the dash, been hacked a bit from an afetrmarket stereo install. If you want it I might maybe would sell it. :lol:
what about the diesel instrument cluster/ will I need to change my cluster?
Yes, Gas Clusters are different. You'll need a diesel one that corresponds to the wiring in the car, CE1 or CE2. I recommend burn_your_money for a nice TD tach cluster, contact him and see if he has any.
thanks for ANY help or info you guys or gals have 8)
Mark
You are Welcome.
As for the A/C, you'll need a different radiator and hoses.
Radiator (https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=fthknbemldzmye45fpeewsv5&partnumber=%20191121253AZ)
Lower Radiator Hose (https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=fthknbemldzmye45fpeewsv5&partnumber=%20191121051P)
Upper Radiator Hose (https://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=fthknbemldzmye45fpeewsv5&partnumber=%20191121101AK)
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Wow great post!! great links...awesome! thanks buddy 8)
Pm me a price on that harness would yah?
Great job on your conversion...you got me pumped up even more!
this is gonna be fun. :D
Thanks again
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I'm going to recommend we stick with the solid rubber mounts over the hydro.
Hydro lets the engine move around to much, I switched from the hydro to solid rubber (G60 mounts) and it's MUCH better to drive now. The shifts are better just a better driving experience all together.
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PM Sent.
zukgod1
I hadn't thought about movement with the hydraulic mounts, good point. If the shifter was a cable type maybe not such a big issue but, I can see how the engine shifting around could cause havoc with the linkage type shifter.
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All that movment didnt really create
problems" pr sey but after I switched over to the solid rubber mounts I noticed it was much easier to shift/ drive in general.
Power felt like it was actually getting to the ground.
Engine felt smoother etc.
Ok I think I've made my point.. :lol:
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I emailed you the info on the Totalseal rings 53 willys..
I'll be ordering a set here myself SOON.
We better take a look at this block ASAP to see what it's going to need. Maybe we can order 2 sets at the same time and save some shipping. Not like rings are going to cost allot to ship but hey..
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I emailed you the info on the Totalseal rings 53 willys..
I'll be ordering a set here myself SOON.
We better take a look at this block ASAP to see what it's going to need. Maybe we can order 2 sets at the same time and save some shipping. Not like rings are going to cost allot to ship but hey..
yeah man let do it...if we order from summit they charge like 10 bucks handling...but we might as well save where we can ...
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I emailed you the info on the Totalseal rings 53 willys..
I'll be ordering a set here myself SOON.
We better take a look at this block ASAP to see what it's going to need. Maybe we can order 2 sets at the same time and save some shipping. Not like rings are going to cost allot to ship but hey..
dan I was just reading the spec on those rings and it says
"Gapless second ring. Not recommended for use with nitrous or forced induction. 10.5:1 or lower compression."
are you sure these rings will work/last??
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Yup, will be fine ;)
I even talked to one of the tech guys at TS, that's where I got the actual part #.
Worse case we save a couple bucks and go with OE however, every comment I had read about the Total Seal rings has been good so I personally think I'll be using them.
:twisted: Your call though.. :D
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Yup, will be fine ;)
I even talked to one of the tech guys at TS, that's where I got the actual part #.
Worse case we save a couple bucks and go with OE however, every comment I had read about the Total Seal rings has been good so I personally think I'll be using them.
:twisted: Your call though.. :D
man I feel a little overwhelmed after all the info I was trying to absorb from our meeting last night!!
my list of things to buy seems to have grown!!!....a lot!
can you send me a link to your parts guys?
thanks
and thanks for all your help too.
I love your car it's even coooler in person!!
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Yup, will be fine ;)
I even talked to one of the tech guys at TS, that's where I got the actual part #.
Worse case we save a couple bucks and go with OE however, every comment I had read about the Total Seal rings has been good so I personally think I'll be using them.
:twisted: Your call though.. :D
man I feel a little overwhelmed after all the info I was trying to absorb from our meeting last night!!
my list of things to buy seems to have grown!!!....a lot!
can you send me a link to your parts guys?
thanks
and thanks for all your help too.
I love your car it's even coooler in person!!
Relax, it's easy :)
Link sent to your PM and thanks for the comments.
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timing belt kit
water pump
engine reseal kit?
head gasket..notch? wont know till I measure piston protrusion.
new piston rings
both motor mounts.(rubber)
injectors rebuilt or new?
stronger clutch..what was the clutch place you said was online??
36mm oil pump
what else am I forgetting??
ARP studs
I am off to the power washer right now!!
:evil:
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timing belt kit
water pump
engine reseal kit?
head gasket..notch? wont know till I measure piston protrusion.
new piston rings
both motor mounts.(rubber)
injectors rebuilt or new?
stronger clutch..what was the clutch place you said was online??
36mm oil pump
what else am I forgetting??
ARP studs
I am off to the power washer right now!!
:evil:
Tensioner for timing belt
Your GLI may have the solid rubber mounts already
Clutchnet.com, better off calling them but need to wait till we decide what trans you are going to be using. There are different spline counts and no need to get a disk to find out later it wont fit the new trans.
Other than that I'd say your good.
And ya, I wanted to wash that thing before you came over but I didn't want to give it to you with water in it either, figured it would be better if you put the water in it 8)
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ok so whats the word...
ARP main studs?
ARP connecting rod bolts?
ARP oil pump bolts?
should I get them or not??
knowing me I will probably make some big power with this motor so building it to last is ok by me even if it's a little over kill...
so should I only do ARP head studs and call it good or should I do the full blown ARP pimp out?
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Dan I also noticed the center Freeze pug was missing on this engine??
will you parts source have freeze plugs??
I also noticed the IP was leaking out of the front seal. :( so should I rebuild it myself?(never rebuilt a IP before) or should I send it to industrial injection?? or should I send it to Gilles(sp?) or????
Dan I pretty much torn the whole engine down today!!
looked pretty good inside..still has the crosshatching on the cylinder walls.....I still dont know what to think about the washer I found on top of the #4 piston!!!!!!! :shock:
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Dan I also noticed the center Freeze pug was missing on this engine??
will you parts source have freeze plugs??
I also noticed the IP was leaking out of the front seal. :( so should I rebuild it myself?(never rebuilt a IP before) or should I send it to industrial injection?? or should I send it to Gilles(sp?) or????
Dan I pretty much torn the whole engine down today!!
looked pretty good inside..still has the crosshatching on the cylinder walls.....I still dont know what to think about the washer I found on top of the #4 piston!!!!!!! :shock:
There was probably a block heater in that hole, that's what I would recommend you put there anyway. You know how warm it is around here in the winter :shock: Parts for Imports in Orem has them in stock or can get it next day.
How can you tell the IP was leaking? Was there trace?
Anyway, we can reseal it easy enough and do a couple mods while we are there or if you have a "G" to throw at it send it to Giles you wont be sorry..
That washer could have fallen down through the open ports sense it didn't have manifolds on it.
Text me your address and I'll come by on the way home tomorrow and take a look and help you make a good parts list.
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trannys are the same or atleast interchangeable??
Yes, 16V will be a close ratio transaxle but is probably a 2Y with a 3.67 final drive and 0.91 5th gear. It will bolt up to the engine, It will also have 100MM Axles, use those too. As far as the best transaxle, I love the ASF but, anything with a .75 5th gear and 3.67 Final would be ideal so, AON, ACN, ACL too. When rebuild time comes I'll probably have a .71 5th gear put in the ASF for even lower Highway RPMs. For transaxle codes, gear ratios, and RPM calculations go here (http://www.scirocco.org/gears/)
do the ASF AON ACN ACL trannys have the bigger 210mm clutch??
like my 2y does??
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I belive they have the smaller clutch but it's easy to adapt.
Clutchnet makes a 210 mm clutch disc with small splines so any 020 trans will work once you find the gear ratio you want.
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I belive they have the smaller clutch but it's easy to adapt.
Clutchnet makes a 210 mm clutch disc with small splines so any 020 trans will work once you find the gear ratio you want.
I was using the RPM calculator and it seems like the ASF or same ratio trannys are the way to go....I would be doing 3712rpm@75mph with the stock 2Y trans...if I swap to a ASF or similar it would be 3059rpm@75mph ....none of the other trannys have any thing as good as the ASF....
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ok so whats the word...
ARP main studs?
ARP connecting rod bolts?
ARP oil pump bolts?
should I get them or not??
knowing me I will probably make some big power with this motor so building it to last is ok by me even if it's a little over kill...
so should I only do ARP head studs and call it good or should I do the full blown ARP pimp out?
I just realized I didn't respond to this.
Mains, not necessary but your call.
Rod bolts? Toss up. I'm using OE
Oil pump bolts, if they are cheap then sure other wise OE is fine here as well.
Head bolts yes, regardless of what gasket you use they are better.
I say rod bolts and head bolts and save your money on the others.
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I was using the RPM calculator and it seems like the ASF or same ratio trannys are the way to go....I would be doing 3712rpm@75mph with the stock 2Y trans...if I swap to a ASF or similar it would be 3059rpm@75mph ....none of the other trannys have any thing as good as the ASF....
I wouldn't take the calculator as gospel, have a look at this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE88ckZgJN0) I took that somewhere near Baltimore on I95 when I drove up from Florida, Its the ASF trans with a set of 195/60-14 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires I had put on just before leaving Fla.
The RPM calculator says I should be at 2989 RPM at 75MPH. At 75MPH I am ~2750 and don't get close to 3000 until 80. I suppose my Speedo could be off by a few MPH and maybe there is a margin of error.
If I swap in a 0.71 5th gear it'll drop the RPMs about ~160 at 75MPH.
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I was using the RPM calculator and it seems like the ASF or same ratio trannys are the way to go....I would be doing 3712rpm@75mph with the stock 2Y trans...if I swap to a ASF or similar it would be 3059rpm@75mph ....none of the other trannys have any thing as good as the ASF....
I wouldn't take the calculator as gospel, have a look at this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE88ckZgJN0) I took that somewhere near Baltimore on I95 when I drove up from Florida, Its the ASF trans with a set of 195/60-14 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires I had put on just before leaving Fla.
The RPM calculator says I should be at 2989 RPM at 75MPH. At 75MPH I am ~2750 and don't get close to 3000 until 80. I suppose my Speedo could be off by a few MPH and maybe there is a margin of error.
If I swap in a 0.71 5th gear it'll drop the RPMs about ~160 at 75MPH.
I picked up a ASF today at the pick n pull for $65...how hard is it to swap to a .71 5th gear??
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I was using the RPM calculator and it seems like the ASF or same ratio trannys are the way to go....I would be doing 3712rpm@75mph with the stock 2Y trans...if I swap to a ASF or similar it would be 3059rpm@75mph ....none of the other trannys have any thing as good as the ASF....
I wouldn't take the calculator as gospel, have a look at this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE88ckZgJN0) I took that somewhere near Baltimore on I95 when I drove up from Florida, Its the ASF trans with a set of 195/60-14 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires I had put on just before leaving Fla.
The RPM calculator says I should be at 2989 RPM at 75MPH. At 75MPH I am ~2750 and don't get close to 3000 until 80. I suppose my Speedo could be off by a few MPH and maybe there is a margin of error.
If I swap in a 0.71 5th gear it'll drop the RPMs about ~160 at 75MPH.
I picked up a ASF today at the pick n pull for $65...how hard is it to swap to a .71 5th gear??
what I should have asked was....where can I get a .71 gear??
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I was using the RPM calculator and it seems like the ASF or same ratio trannys are the way to go....I would be doing 3712rpm@75mph with the stock 2Y trans...if I swap to a ASF or similar it would be 3059rpm@75mph ....none of the other trannys have any thing as good as the ASF....
I wouldn't take the calculator as gospel, have a look at this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE88ckZgJN0) I took that somewhere near Baltimore on I95 when I drove up from Florida, Its the ASF trans with a set of 195/60-14 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires I had put on just before leaving Fla.
The RPM calculator says I should be at 2989 RPM at 75MPH. At 75MPH I am ~2750 and don't get close to 3000 until 80. I suppose my Speedo could be off by a few MPH and maybe there is a margin of error.
If I swap in a 0.71 5th gear it'll drop the RPMs about ~160 at 75MPH.
I picked up a ASF today at the pick n pull for $65...how hard is it to swap to a .71 5th gear??
what I should have asked was....where can I get a .71 gear??
http://www.brokevw.com/forsale.html