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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: fuslit on July 15, 2008, 03:25:27 pm
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Thought I had started a thread here, but perhaps not. Anyway I'm thinking about putting the turbo diesel motor that I have into my daily driver. A 95 mk3 jetta glx. (pre-ob2)
I've started with a turbo diesel motor I have was supposedly freshly rebuilt but since it's not something I want to drop right in, I'm going to go back over it and clean a few things up. Change out a few things, larger turbo, different pump then what I got it with, swap the belt system to a tdi serpentine belt tensioner setup etc. I'm staying with an o2a transmission because I don't mind the hydraulic clutch and cable shifting of the car and it would be 'quicker' to swap in for me (less stuff to try and track down.)
So, while it's not going to be stock 1.6td and I've got a few things to help it push out some more power... The end question is will it have enough power to push the car (and bike rack) at an acceptable speed?
Non standard things that I have which will be on it
- Raceware head studs
- GTD injector nozzles
- Bigger turbo
- Large front mount intercooler (of some type)
- 16v passat o2a AGC trans (with a tdi 5th gear set)
- rebuilt turbo diesel pump with some mods to push more fuel.
- Serp belt kit from tdi
Things I need for the conversion:
- 1.9td mk3 wiring harness
- Tdi fifth gear set
- g60 flywheel for a vr6 clutch
- diesel starter
- alternator (I can use a vr's)
- Downpipe and Exhaust
Things I'm thinking about for the future?
- 1.9 turbo diesel head
- metal head gasket?
- frybred wvo tank?
- bio-diesel
What else would I need to change / swap to get this to work (the air-con might be a project but figured I'd keep it since it still works...)
Thoughts, suggestions, threads of people who've already done this? (I did a quick search but wasn't able to find anything that directly addressed this particular topic.)
-Todd
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The day before yesterday I started getting the motor torn down so I can clean it up a bit and change out a few things before I swap and make sure things are in order. (that the previous owner supposedly did.)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080713_turbo_diesel/IMG_0956_640.JPG)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080713_turbo_diesel/IMG_0964_640.JPG)
I've got a 'real' td oil pan, so I've pulled the one that was on it (anyone want to turbo their car? I've got a spare oil pan... make me an offer)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080713_turbo_diesel/IMG_0957_640.JPG)
I've also pulled the clutch that was on it as it's for an 020 tran (a sachs something er other, I'll have to lookup what it is again. That might be for sale as well.)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080713_turbo_diesel/IMG_0961_640.JPG)
again, code on my transmission it is is an AGC so I looked up the info on that.
_________1st___2nd___3rd___4th___5th___R&P____Notes
AGC====3.778 =2.105=1.345=0.971=0.795=3.944= Passat 16V
I've found a few sources for a tdi .775 fifth gear set. I'm wondering how much of a difference that it would make in the rpm's in fifth gear. I guess it'll depend what the final price point on the gears turns out to be. I hopefully will be able to make the final decision today as I've been slammed with work/family stuff...
For kicks and grins I test fit the serp/alt belt holder from the tdi longblock I have on the motor, 3 out of four bolts fit.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080713_turbo_diesel/IMG_0968_640.JPG)
I'm am going to hold off on buying the serp belt from a 1.9 td now, and I've been thinking about just selling off the parts from the tdi that are still good... (head, 3 pistons, crank, etc... keep an eye out I might have some tdi parts for sale.)
For me this is real progress! (my projects tend to move slow... as I have a ton of stuff going on at once...)
-Todd
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I made some progress last night!
I pulled some more from the busted TDI longblock I have (serp pulleys, vbelt pulleys for the h20 pump, ip bracket, lower belt guard, etc.)
So far, everything seems to swap over, the IP bracket while it does hold the pump, has some complications (the mounting points are off, only one of four bolt holes fit) With only one bolt lines up and the 'outside' bolt which the serp tensioner belt is on does not line up w/the way it currently sits. Still for fun I put it on to get some ideas. Put the oil pan (held on w/three bolts) to see how it fits/sits and found a return line to test fit.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080714_turbo_diesel_mockup/IMG_0973_640.JPG)
the pulleys seem to line up (even though I suck at taking pictures to illustrate that point.)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080714_turbo_diesel_mockup/IMG_0975_640.JPG)
with the timing belt on, the lower guard did not fit in place, but I was more interested in the TDI injection pump bracket then the guard so I test fit things w/out it.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080714_turbo_diesel_mockup/IMG_0982_640.JPG)
And my camera ran out of battery's, since I have other crap (non-car related) I need to get done so I quit for the night.
So, That's not to shabby for progress
I am trying to uncover things in my pile of jun.. I mean spare parts *grin* that I want to use on the engine (correct oil lines, etc) more progress tomorrow! (hopefully)
-Todd
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Depending on your elevation I don't think your going to want to go with a larger than OE turbo. To big and it wont spool till your at the top of the RPM range.
Use the turbo off the TDI that would rock!!
I would get a Metal head gasket off a AAZ engine as well while your there.
Also the FMIC will create a problem with the cooling.
I kept wondering why my car would keep getting warm, it never got "hot" but it would warm up to the point I started to feel uncomfortable.
I replace the T stat with an OE unit and the Radiator with a larger (thickness) core and added "Water Wetter", while it was better it would still climb up on long hills.
Good luck on your build.
I climbed up under it the other day and realized the bottom 1/2 of the rad was covered by the FMIC.
So I cut the front bumper where the Euro plate would be to get more air flow through the IC and rad.
Seemed to have solved my problem other than if it's 90 deg out side and I'm climbing a steep hill for a long time it will still climb a bit temp wise..
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Couple other notes.
What turbo do you currently have.
And on the trans. Unless all your doing is putting around town your going to want a taller geared trans all together.
Go here http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
This has older trans codes but may help ya.
If you go with what you have planned (adding the TDI 5th) your going to be running 65 mph @ 3000 rpm (approx) 3500 will net you 76 mph.
I was using a 205/40r16 tire for the calculation.
That's just to fast for any type of economy.
Again depends on what your going for as an end use.
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zukgod1, I've got a 7A trans in my '91 Jetta TD and the trans program says I should be doing 2693 RPM @ 65 MPH with 195/50R15 tires. Not to hijack this thread but is a 7A transaxle good for our 1.6L TD's? Fuslit, what are the ratios of your current trans?
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hey,
if you have a small turbo, T2/k14 or k03-003 keep it. 1.6's desperately need more bottom end power, and putting a larger, slow spooling turbo is going to hurt driveability.
Toss that 3 puck clutch junk too. You'll want to commit suicide within a day of driving that!
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hey,
if you have a small turbo, T2/k14 or k03-003 keep it. 1.6's desperately need more bottom end power, and putting a larger, slow spooling turbo is going to hurt driveability.
Exactly!!!!
Toss that 3 puck clutch junk too. You'll want to commit suicide within a day of driving that!
If it has a sprung center it may not be to bad but if it's solid I will agree. Toss that thing to someone that races.
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zukgod1, I've got a 7A trans in my '91 Jetta TD and the trans program says I should be doing 2693 RPM @ 65 MPH with 195/50R15 tires. Not to hijack this thread but is a 7A transaxle good for our 1.6L TD's? Fuslit, what are the ratios of your current trans?
I dont know where the "sweet spot" is for our engine, hopefully someone will chime in.
I try to keep my freeway cruising to 3000 or lower just for fuel economy reasons.
I dont think you will hurt anything @ 2700 or even 3800 for that matter.
Just depends on what your using it for.
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'sweet spot' is as low as you can get. some will argue soot buildup will occur down low, but i believe that is only when accelerating too hard in a gear too low. good way to needlessly burn oil as well. if you can run 100km/h @ 1500 rpm on the highway, do it. you'd be getting into 60 mpg territory right there :wink:
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for best fuel economy per hp/kw produced it is 1800 rpms. The info is floating around the internet some where. I posted it over on the vortex but no one seemed much interested.
at 1800 rpms the 1.6 uses 264 grams/kwh (kilowatt hour) of work
diesel weighs between 820-950 grams/liter ~ 885 grams/liter
so if at 1800 rpms it uses 264 grams/kwh
885/264=3.35 kwh/liter of fuel
1 horsepower = .75 kwh
3.35/.75= 4.46 hp/liter
1 liter=3.79 gallons
4.46*3.79= 16.92 hph/gal (horse power hours/gallon)
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for best fuel economy per hp/kw produced it is 1800 rpms. The info is floating around the internet some where. I posted it over on the vortex but no one seemed much interested.
at 1800 rpms the 1.6 uses 264 grams/kwh (kilowatt hour) of work
diesel weighs between 820-950 grams/liter ~ 885 grams/liter
so if at 1800 rpms it uses 264 grams/kwh
885/264=3.35 kwh/liter of fuel
1 horsepower = .75 kwh
3.35/.75= 4.46 hp/liter
1 liter=3.79 gallons
4.46*3.79= 16.92 hph/gal (horse power hours/gallon)
Eyes glaze over........
No wonder no one showed any interest, what the heck does this really mean as far as fuel economy goes?? And are you taking into consideration the load placed on the engine while going 1800 rpms is say 4th gear?
Looks like your figures are unladen.?
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in 4th gear at 1800 rpms doing what... going up hill... going down hill... traveling on flat ground.....
The figures are what they are. The 1.6 produces the most power per volume of fuel at 1800 rpms. The numbers don't reflect any real world situations... since it varies so much. I.E. how much fuel consumed going up hill at 1800 rpms. vrs. traveling on flat ground at 1800 rpms. The figure simply shows that all conditions being the same the engine will consume the least fuel at 1800 rpms...... and that if the engine produces 16.92 horse power (continuously for an hour) it will use 1 gallon of fuel.
In ideal conditions it would be best to gear a 1.6 to stay in the 1800 rpm range while traveling at the speed it sees most. I.E. 1800 at 60 mph in 5th gear. Unfortunately in real world conditions it might take more hp than the 1.6 produces at 1800 rpms to keep it at that speed.
any way hope this helps explain what it all means.
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(http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/2185/comparison2um5.jpg)
just by changing the turbo you could change the spec fuel consumption etc.
vnt-15 with intercooler and voila. 1500 rpms is now the 'sweet spot'
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I think that to a large degree friction plays a factor here.
To maintain a given speed, it takes X HP. You can make that HP over a wide range of RPM with a given engine.
All things being equal, this HP demand requires X amount of fuel per time, as stated above. So really, it shouldn't make any difference whether you're using a light accelerator pedal and high rpm (moderate torque x high revs to hold the given speed) or pedal to the metal and low rpm (big torque and low revs).
Except that in this case (and pretty well every other stinking thing in life :roll: ) all things aren't equal.
The moderate torque X high rpm approach suffers from more internal engine friction/time than the low rpm approach.
So by accomplishing the work needed to hold the given speed at a lower rpm, you're not producing as much negative hp (frictionxtime) and therefore use less fuel.
It's 6:17 am, and i'm working nightshift. So if none of that made any sense, just ignore me. I'll be better after some sleep. Goodnight.
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and what about pumping losses? the IDI has a LOT of them because of the high CR, lowering th CR would reduce them.
in my view, I would: reduce CR, decrease injection time(bigger pump head/camdisk?), improve spray (4 or 8º injectors).
the camshaft also plays a very important role on the sfc curve, but on a diesel there isn't much that can be done.
a turbo doesn't make a difference on the sfc, but it enables us to use a lower RPM that wasn't usable on NA mode.
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ok that makes sense, and goes in the same line of thought I was having in the local café: the pumping losses we can control are due to the restrictions on the intake and exhaust, so the 1.9 head on 1.6 bottom end should need slightly less fuel for the same power output right?
it would take less power to suck in the same amount of air.
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THANK YOU jtanguay..... that is exactly what I was looking for. I had the information for were it was the most efficient but not were it is least efficient. It's interesting to see that the curve is so shallow between 1000 to 3000 rpms. I did the math based on worst(280 g/kwh)/best(264 g/kwh) case scenarios over the 1000-3000 rpm power band and found there is only a 6% difference in fuel consumption in that power band..... very interesting... So really, unless your hyper miling, as long as you keep it under 3000 rpms range you'll be getting good millage.
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Wow, quite a bit of info to digest!
The clutch that was on it was from a guy who was racing it, it won't work against an o2a transmission anyhow.
I didn't get a chance to work on the engine last night, I had to meet with a client I do some web work for.
I've calculated the rpm band that I'll be in w/the tdi fifth and the current gear set. (fifth is my major concern as I'll be using it the most during my hr commute) I'm running 195x50xr15's with the o2a trans ACG gearset which has a 3.9 RP and fifth gear of .79 (.8 if you round up)
From the http://www.scirocco.org/gears/ page
Stock: At 65 in fifth gear the rpm's will be 3036 rpm
.756 tdi 5th: At 65 in fifth gear the rpm's will be 2869 rpm
If I get a g60 o2a transmission with a 3.6 r&p I drop the rpm's considerably.
with the Tdi fifth 2651 rpm) I'll have to keep an eye out for one to see what I can find. (I'm guessing that they are prob a tad hard to find though...)
I don't have the info on top of my head so I'll pull the info from it tonight. It's much bigger than a 1.6 turbo
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/02-06-07_k24_turbo/IMG_8295_640.JPG)
Right now the engine has a three notch head gasket on it, I haven't pulled the head (I should just to be sure everything is ok) but I'm debating...
We'll see how much progress I make tonight.
-Todd
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So really, unless your hyper miling, as long as you keep it under 3000 rpms range you'll be getting good millage.
This backs up what I have physically discovered.
If I can keep it below 3k my mileage is much better.
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What turbos are those Todd?
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Off the top of my head, I believe smaller one is a k14 (eco diesel?) the larger one is a k24 from an audi 5000 (I think). I'll get the #'s from the larger one tonight. It's the one I plan on running on this particular swap, I've gotten rid of the smaller turbo, but I do have a similar sized one which I got w/this engine.
Alot of this project is 'trial and see how it works' so I'm sure i'll be changing things around from what I initially thought would be 'ok'.
-Todd
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If the smaller one is a 14 than the larger one is either a 26 or a 27.
If your using the OE intake and exhaust manifolds the larger turbo isn't going to fit (if it's a 27). The 26 will fit with some grindage on either the intake or the compressor.
If its a 27 (which is WAY larger than a 26) it wont fit at all unless you go custom manifolds.
Also you will hate the larger turbo for anything other than 3000+ RPM's.
If the turbo that came with the engine is a 24 and the larger turbo is a 26 take the exhaust housing off the 24 and have it machined to clear the larger wheel on the 26 exhaust side so you can still get a good spool and have the larger compressor as well.
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that small turbo is your friend. :D
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that small turbo is your friend. :D
Exactly what I was thinking.
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I took it part again, tore it down and separated the head from the block so I could make sure the head and pistons were ok.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080716_turbo_diesel_teardown/IMG_0987_640.JPG)
you can tell where at some point the valves were on the pistons (perhaps when I took the belt off?) while there is marks in the carbon, there really is no 'indent' into the piston.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080716_turbo_diesel_teardown/IMG_0988_640.JPG)
I feel better about moving forward with the rest of it, not that I was worried but it would be kinda sucky to get everything together to find that a piston is/was hosed. Everything appears to be good to go.
Found a different oil filter holder which has a turbo oil line part.
Can you re-use head gaskets? The # on the one that's in it is 285 049
I pulled the info off the turbo I might use (a k24 I think?) I'm ok with it taking a little while to spool (at least I think I will be at the moment) if not I've got a k14 I can put on.
anyway the info tab is three lines... and in German so it can be a puzzle to figure out what it is. I haven't had a chance to go through it.
K *scratch so I can't read* NR: 069145703
ALT NR: 829180331
AUSFÜHRUNG: 5324 970 6081
I've got an adapter plate that will allow the turbo to be hooked to the current exhaust manifold I have.
Now I'm satisfied with the head and block, I'll start cleaning things up to get things ready for the 'build up' There are a couple seals that have small tears in them that I want to replace since I've got it down this far. I pulled the tdi flywheel from the tdi block and it should bolt up with out any problems! I'll call up the machine shop I use and have it resurfaced and start cleaning the transmission up.
I'm starting to compile a list of seals and bits I need for the build of the injection pump, block and transmission.
-Todd
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Can you re-use head gaskets? The # on the one that's in it is 285 049
No you cant.
Get a metal AAZ head gasket according to your piston protrusion.
I pulled the info off the turbo I might use (a k24 I think?) I'm ok with it taking a little while to spool (at least I think I will be at the moment) if not I've got a k14 I can put on.
anyway the info tab is three lines... and in German so it can be a puzzle to figure out what it is. I haven't had a chance to go through it.
K *scratch so I can't read* NR: 069145703
ALT NR: 829180331
AUSFÜHRUNG: 5324 970 6081
I've got an adapter plate that will allow the turbo to be hooked to the current exhaust manifold I have.
-Todd
Take a pic of the manifold and turbo will ya?
The mount to be specific, I'm curious why you would need an adapter to mount a stock turbo is all.
The k24 will be ok for ya I'll bet, I thought mine was fine till I snapped the shaft (twice).
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Can you re-use head gaskets? The # on the one that's in it is 285 049
No you cant.
Get a metal AAZ head gasket according to your piston protrusion.
I thought that was the case, on the head gaskets, I'll have to measure the piston protrusion and figure out what metal head gasket to get (although since I want to push a bit more boost, I'm thinking that it might be better try and lower the compression ratio with a wider hg. another thing I need to research I guess)
Take a pic of the manifold and turbo will ya?
The mount to be specific, I'm curious why you would need an adapter to mount a stock turbo is all.
The k24 will be ok for ya I'll bet, I thought mine was fine till I snapped the shaft (twice).
The reason the turbo needs an adapter is this is not a stock vw turbo. so the bolt holes don't line up correctly to the vw turbo diesel manifold. (may be other types of manifolds, i'm not really that knowledgeable in this area)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/01-27-07_turbo/Audi5-cyl2_640.jpg)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/01-27-07_turbo/Audi5-cyl3_640.jpg)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/01-27-07_turbo/Audi5-cylk241_640.jpg)
It bolts up to the stock manifold with the adapter in those pics. I started to do that last night but got sidetracked pulling the rest of the engine apart. . .
Hopefully I won't snap the turbo's shaft, how much boost were you pushing when that happened?
-Todd
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Aw there ya go, it has a T3 foot on it. Makes sense now.
Did you make that plate?
Can I pay ya to make me one? Seriously..
At the manifold I'm running about 27 psi on the top end with my 26/24 but usually it tops out around 22psi.
Before the intercooler and when running the k24 under hard accell I could touch 40 psi (shock).
At that point is when I decided I had better get a FMIC as I was pushing the turbo WAY past it's efficiency range. Then afterword's I could just touch 30 on a good day so I upgraded the FMIC to a larger core and toasted the turbo shortly there after :(
I know it was due to my driving style so after the first turbo I turned the pump way down and drove nicer and yet the second turbo snapped as well. I didn't know the condition of the second turbo (do now) so I had to just drive nicer. It snapped on level ground with the cruise control set @ 72 mph.
Now I have a hybrid 26/24, the 26 has the same dia shaft so I'm driving it nicer again. I'm going to change over to a T3 (thats why I need that adapter) to gain the larger shaft and also for parts availability. It's hard to get anything other than a rebuild kit for the k series turbos.
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Aw there ya go, it has a T3 foot on it. Makes sense now.
Did you make that plate?
Can I pay ya to make me one? Seriously..
I did not make the plate, but I was planning on making a few templates of it. It would be fairly easy to make up I'd imagine, I've got the majority of the tools needed. I could trace it out on some cardstock and send you a template if you want.
At the manifold I'm running about 27 psi on the top end with my 26/24 but usually it tops out around 22psi.
Before the intercooler and when running the k24 under hard accell I could touch 40 psi (shock).
At that point is when I decided I had better get a FMIC as I was pushing the turbo WAY past it's efficiency range. Then afterword's I could just touch 30 on a good day so I upgraded the FMIC to a larger core and toasted the turbo shortly there after :(
I know it was due to my driving style so after the first turbo I turned the pump way down and drove nicer and yet the second turbo snapped as well. I didn't know the condition of the second turbo (do now) so I had to just drive nicer. It snapped on level ground with the cruise control set @ 72 mph.
Now I have a hybrid 26/24, the 26 has the same dia shaft so I'm driving it nicer again. I'm going to change over to a T3 (thats why I need that adapter) to gain the larger shaft and also for parts availability. It's hard to get anything other than a rebuild kit for the k series turbos.
That sounds like quite a bit of boost to be pushing for sure, I've got a large FMIC (I'll see if I can dig up some pics of it) but I haven't decided to use it or not. Perhaps I should re-think that if you are having issues snapping turbo shafts.
I do need to figure out what type of Downpipe/IC pipe setup I'm going to use, Once I finish working on the engine I'll start working on that.
-Todd
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Aw there ya go, it has a T3 foot on it. Makes sense now.
Did you make that plate?
Can I pay ya to make me one? Seriously..
I did not make the plate, but I was planning on making a few templates of it. It would be fairly easy to make up I'd imagine, I've got the majority of the tools needed. I could trace it out on some cardstock and send you a template if you want.
At the manifold I'm running about 27 psi on the top end with my 26/24 but usually it tops out around 22psi.
Before the intercooler and when running the k24 under hard accell I could touch 40 psi (shock).
At that point is when I decided I had better get a FMIC as I was pushing the turbo WAY past it's efficiency range. Then afterword's I could just touch 30 on a good day so I upgraded the FMIC to a larger core and toasted the turbo shortly there after :(
I know it was due to my driving style so after the first turbo I turned the pump way down and drove nicer and yet the second turbo snapped as well. I didn't know the condition of the second turbo (do now) so I had to just drive nicer. It snapped on level ground with the cruise control set @ 72 mph.
Now I have a hybrid 26/24, the 26 has the same dia shaft so I'm driving it nicer again. I'm going to change over to a T3 (thats why I need that adapter) to gain the larger shaft and also for parts availability. It's hard to get anything other than a rebuild kit for the k series turbos.
That sounds like quite a bit of boost to be pushing for sure, I've got a large FMIC (I'll see if I can dig up some pics of it) but I haven't decided to use it or not. Perhaps I should re-think that if you are having issues snapping turbo shafts.
I do need to figure out what type of Downpipe/IC pipe setup I'm going to use, Once I finish working on the engine I'll start working on that.
-Todd
I think I'm one of the few that have snaped a shaft so dont let that scare ya to much. That and as I mentioned the first one was due to my driving style I'm almost positive. Shifting while under high boost isnt good but it sure sounded cool!!
I would love a tempate of the plate, with measurements would rock.
I'll PM ya my address :)
Making a DP is fairly easy if you have a mig. make a flange or buy one and a couple of "U" bends and your off to the races.
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I think I'm one of the few that have snaped a shaft so dont let that scare ya to much. That and as I mentioned the first one was due to my driving style I'm almost positive. Shifting while under high boost isnt good but it sure sounded cool!!
I would love a tempate of the plate, with measurements would rock.
I'll PM ya my address :)
Making a DP is fairly easy if you have a mig. make a flange or buy one and a couple of "U" bends and your off to the races.
I could send you something in the mail no problem.
I've got a mig and a bottle for it so I should be able to turn out a fairly decent downpipe.
I'm debating about taking my car's current transmission which has a 3.3 R&P but I'd rather do the full swap where I pull one engine/trans and put the next in place.
Either way there are going to be some issues I think. but I was hoping to keep the down time minimized.
Any suggestions where I can pickup the metal head gasket, pump seals (bio-diesel resistant) and downpipe parts?
-Todd
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Contact myke_w on the board for the head gasket.
I'll PM you his email addy.
As far as the DP is concerned I made the flange out of 3/8 plate.
I wish I would have used 1/2 but I've not had any problems so far and almost 10k miles so must be ok.
Summit racing sells U bends for a fair price or if you weren't to picky you could have a muffler shop bend you some 3" in varying bends like I did and just chop saw where needed to get the shape you need and weld together.
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Andrew, thanks for weighing in on my thread :) I'm going to use that turbo... it's just my projects move slow and sometimes change direction *grin*
Yeah, that'd be a good design change, tapping the adapter plate would make it a bit easier...
zukgod1: I'll try and get you a template sent out by sat (with all measurements)
-Todd
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zukgod1: I'll try and get you a template sent out by sat (with all measurements)
-Todd
Thanks Todd that would be great!!!
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(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080723_motor/IMG_1005_640.JPG)
Gonna try and paint the block this weekend :)
-Todd
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so, it's been awhile ... I kinda got side tracked with a million other projects. Also, my cousin and I have been collecting large chunks of iron (milling machines, Lathe, and machinist tools)
while it's hard to tell, I got the block painted and started putting bits back on, then I came to another road block which head gasket to get?
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20080918_shortblock/IMG_1288_640.JPG)
I'm planning on running a metal 1.9 td headgasket but wasn't sure if the piston protrusion was correct for the previous head gasket.
So since I have the milling machine, I used it as the excuse to make a piston protrusion tool to figure out how high the pistons protrude.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081123_piston_protrusion_tool/IMG_1397_640.JPG)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081123_piston_protrusion_tool/IMG_1398_640.JPG)
The good news is, it works which I'm excited about, now I can continue to work towards finishing the build.
-T
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(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081123_piston_protrusion_tool/IMG_1398_640.JPG)
The good news is, it works which I'm excited about, now I can continue to work towards finishing the build.
-T
Too cool!
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I drilled steam holes in the head and block for the extra holes that the new 1.9 aaz gasket has. Raceware headstuds in, headgasket is on and torqued down.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081214_headgasket/IMG_1472_640.JPG)
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081214_headgasket/IMG_1473_640.JPG)
You can see here the one spot to the upper right that the gasket doesn't seal, so I found a thread that addressed that and used some high temp copper gasket seal and a piece of innertube to fill in the gap. Again something which is supposed to work well, we'll see I suppose hopefully it won't leak.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081214_headgasket/IMG_1475_640.JPG)
Now, I need to pickup some stuff that will allow me to clean up my ip and some other bits that I want to clean and paint before putting on the engine.
-T
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You can see here the one spot to the upper right that the gasket doesn't seal, so I found a thread that addressed that and used some high temp copper gasket seal and a piece of innertube to fill in the gap. Again something which is supposed to work well, we'll see I suppose hopefully it won't leak.
(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081214_headgasket/IMG_1475_640.JPG)
I sure hope that was a super thick peice of inner tube?
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(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081214_headgasket/IMG_1473_640.JPG)
Did your valves come in contact with the pistions ?
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(http://fuslit.org/photo_gallery/picKLE-cache/misc/car/turbo_diesel_buildup/20081214_headgasket/IMG_1473_640.JPG)
Did your valves come in contact with the pistions ?
read page 2.... 8)
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I see it now. :-) I guess my attention span is not 5 months ;-) Good to see it was cosmetic.
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it still looks like the pistons hit the valves with some good force... unless there is a thick layer of soot on the pistons :lol:
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looks like he was turning it over without a head gasket in.
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Well, I've never had/heard the engine running and was told it was in good working order. I was able to turn it over by hand and did not feel any valve/piston contact. From what I can tell everything turned/turns over w/out interference issues. As I mentioned on page2, removing the timing belt (honestly I don't really remember the exact sequence of events in taking this apart as my memory sucks as well) caused the valves to contact the pistons (which had a fair amount of soot on them even after I removed a bit)
Yah, my projects um tend to last a long time (understatement) ... life seems to get in the way I guess.
-T