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General Information => General => Topic started by: zukgod1 on July 06, 2008, 03:26:42 pm
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I know jack about turbos.
I know I can kill an K24 with ease.
I would like a k24/26 hybrid turbo but the shaft size is to damn small so I need a Garrett or equivalent turbo that has a larger shaft and a larger compressor than the k24.
I have been reading for a while now but without pictures I just dont get it when it comes to turbos.
Trim and AR confuses me.
First off anyone have the trim info on a K24 for me to compair to other turbos.
I think with this info I can pick what I need.
My car is a stock 1.6, gasket matched that's it.
10mm pump
Merc injectors
ARP head studs
AAZ head gasket
FMIC already mounted for boosting!!
I use it for a 62 mile commute and run around 3000rpm ont he freeway so I need a turbo that's damn near spooled by then so I can actually drive the damn thing.
MAIN thing is the current K24 specs so I can compare.
Can anyone help me without sending me to Garrett's web site?
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You looking for a new turbo, or a junkyard/oem application?
How prepared are you to make a new exhaust manifold/manifold flange to adapt to, say, a standard T3 style flange?
What kind of boost capability would you like from this turbo?
Answering these will help to narrow down your choices.
I would bet a large VNT would be awesome....Has anyone done a VNT20 on a 1.6 yet? :twisted:
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I think I want New. No more used stuff for me.
I have no problem making an adapter plate to mount the standard T series turbo.
Want 25-35 psi on the top end cruising want 10 or so.
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I have a Merc 300TD T3 I will be selling soon I think. .48AR on the turbine housing. Thats a bit bigger than stock VW turbos, it will spool a bit later unless you have the fuel turned up and a free flowing exhaust. I believe it is a 42AR compressor with a 45 trim. It has the capability to move more air than either the stock T3 or K24 at slightly lower temps. You would need a standard T3 flange / manifold to run it. It has been dissasembled(lots of propane,PB Blaster, knuckle skin, cursing etc..) hot tanked and bead blasted. I have the high performance complete T3 rebuild kit with the 360 bearing upgrade from gpopshop to go with it. Just needs to be bolted back together.
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How much are you thinking? Drop me a PM.
or some reason I'm thinking it will be to big on the exhaust side for me to spool it for daily driving. Sounds like it would be perfect for road racing maybe.. Either way let me know what your thinking for price.
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Personally I think a 24/26 hybrid would be perfect if not for the damn weak shaft they have...
I'm REALLY tired of breaking these things.
Why the heck did they neck down the damn shaft on the compressor side?
If they would have kept it the same DIA to the end or maybe to up to the last .250" I would still be running the original k24!!
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Want 25-35 psi on the top end cruising want 10 or so.
You will not find a turbo that can push more than 25 PSI and still be operating on its compressor map. How high above sea level do you live? Altitude makes a big difference when it comes to the Pressure ratio across the compressor.
The .35 AR T3 is actually pretty good for big boost and decent cruising efficiency, see page 3 of the linked thread for the T3 map with points plotted for various running conditions, again those points are for a 1.9, but estimate the LBS/Min, subtract %15 and replot the point, the pressure ratio will stay the same so the point will just move left a bit.
Check this thread (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=304473&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20) out for a bunch of compressor map theory. I plotted all those points for a 1.9, for the 1.6 take %15 off the LBS/Min (X axis numbers) and you'll be quite close.
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i don't think you would really want 10 psi for cruising... more psi = isn't always a good thing... you really only want boost on demand. for passing/hill climbing/accelerating.
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i don't think you would really want 10 psi for cruising... more psi = isn't always a good thing... you really only want boost on demand. for passing/hill climbing/accelerating.
This is true more of a flow than pressure deal and yes on demand boost is what I want.
I just found a good VNT 15 in the next town over for a fair price.
I'm not to sure about the flow on the 15 vs the k24 though and building a VNT controller that actually works sounds like a pain in the BUTT.
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Want 25-35 psi on the top end cruising want 10 or so.
You will not find a turbo that can push more than 25 PSI and still be operating on its compressor map. How high above sea level do you live? Altitude makes a big difference when it comes to the Pressure ratio across the compressor.
The .35 AR T3 is actually pretty good for big boost and decent cruising efficiency, see page 3 of the linked thread for the T3 map with points plotted for various running conditions, again those points are for a 1.9, but estimate the LBS/Min, subtract %15 and replot the point, the pressure ratio will stay the same so the point will just move left a bit.
Check this thread (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=304473&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20) out for a bunch of compressor map theory. I plotted all those points for a 1.9, for the 1.6 take %15 off the LBS/Min (X axis numbers) and you'll be quite close.
I disagree on finding a compressor that will move 25 psi but finding one that will move enough air lower as well will be a problem with a compressor large enough to move 25 psi.
Turbo maps do me no good. Unless someone is standing here explaining to me what they mean it's like a deer in the headlights.... Thus this thread, I can post up what I want and answer questions as to how everything it/will be set up though.
Will a VNT 15 move enough CFM to do what I want maybe?
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Zudgod1, jackbombay isn't saying you can't find a turbo that won't push 25psi, what he's saying is you won't find one that can push 25psi and still be within it's safe operating limits. When you push mechanical devices significantly past their design operating parameters they tend to destroy themselves.
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I understand that, what I need is one that won't grenade when running 25psi. Its going to go there with the fuel I'm running so it need to be beefy enough to deal with it. I do think a k24/26 would do waht I need but not for long, would end up with a twisted shaft yet again.
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Zudgod1, jackbombay isn't saying you can't find a turbo that won't push 25psi, what he's saying is you won't find one that can push 25psi and still be within it's safe operating limits. When you push mechanical devices significantly past their design operating parameters they tend to destroy themselves.
Exactly.
You can run 35 PSI, but you will continue to blow turbos.
A bigger compressor won't really help that, the problem with high boost levels is that the pressure ratio goes through the roof, sometimes bigger comp wheels can drive higher PRs, but not always, also with bigger comp wheels the map moves to the right with relation to LBS/Min so you run a decent risk of surge (crossing the line on the left), especially at altitude.
Run a turbo in its "happy zone" (on the map) and it will run forever.
See this thread (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=148730) if you want to learn how to read a compressor map.
This GT 20 (http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT20/GT2052_727264_3.htm) has a good map and could work well for you, I can figure some typical operating conditions for you if you like. What RPM do you cruise at on the freeway? How many PIS on the freeway? What altitude do you live at? What max boost do you want to run? What is the highest RPM you run the engine up to?
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Whats the bore and stoke of a 1.6?
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Well, here is that gt20 map with a couple points plotted on it, right on the surge line at cruising speed, but thats probably ok, I assumed you lived at 5000 for the calculations,
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/gt201.gif)
and here are the same couple points on the smallest GT15 map, nice and efficient at cruisiing speed, but out of breath for high RPM and high boost.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/gt15ss1.gif)
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This should help
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml
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Here's the map for the Merc .48
(http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/maps/t3-45.gif)
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Well, here is that gt20 map with a couple points plotted on it, right on the surge line at cruising speed, but thats probably ok, I assumed you lived at 5000 for the calculations,
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/gt201.gif)
and here are the same couple points on the smallest GT15 map, nice and efficient at cruisiing speed, but out of breath for high RPM and high boost.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/gt15ss1.gif)
So These would be similar to maps for VNT 15's and VNT 20's except a VNT would spool faster than a GT, so you could get the same pressures at lower rpm's.
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So These would be similar to maps for VNT 15's and VNT 20's except a VNT would spool faster than a GT, so you could get the same pressures at lower rpm's.
Here is a VNT 15 map note the X scale is in KG/min, divide by 2.2 for lbs.
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/car%20pics/3809turbomap_1st_idle.jpg)
and a map for the 52mm compressor VNT20,
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/car%20pics/VNT-20_map.jpg)
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Here are those same 2 points plotted on the Merc map,
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e208/schmeldenhoffer/t3-451.gif)
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I can figure some typical operating conditions for you if you like. What RPM do you cruise at on the freeway? How many PIS on the freeway? What altitude do you live at? What max boost do you want to run? What is the highest RPM you run the engine up to?
Thank you sir.
I will look at the maps you posted as well to see if I can make sense of them
I'm @ 4500' so your guess of 5k was probably close enough.
76 mph is about 3000 rpm which is where I cruise most of the time.
Max boost will be ? no idea, I would like to be able to get 25.?
Top RPM is 4200 (ish) I've never taken it past 4500.
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BTW jackbombay, I REALLY appreciate the guidance here.
I found a Garret T3 today at a local Turbo shop I can get for a song (pays to know people sometimes).
I'm going to get the trim levels so we can see if it will work.
Then I found a good VNT 15 as well.
Do you think a VNT15 will work for me if I can get a control made for the VNT part?
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VNT 15 won't make anywhere near the pressure you want.
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VNT 15 won't make anywhere near the pressure you want.
That's what I was concerned about. I could get great spooling but crappy upper RPM performance.
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With the small displacement of the 1.6 you'll be close to surge with any turbo you choose, and there are only a couple that will push 25 while still staying close to the map. The GT20 map I posted earlier is looking pretty good. your probable highway speed boost and rpm are just on the map, where thats not the case for the merc turbo, or even the VNT 15, or even the stock .35 AR T3 that used to come with the TDs. Which shows that crossing the surge line is not the end of the world, but if you can stay inside of it you'll be better off and have a happier longer lasting turbo.
The real question is how will the GT 20 spool. Wasn't malone running a GT20 on his franken motor? I'd look through his thread and see if he listed the specific model, there are 5 or so GT20s available on the garrett website, I linked the one I mapped the points for which has the highest PR and will push 25 PSI the best of any of them.
VNT 15 won't make anywhere near the pressure you want.
Yep, the pressure ratio only goes to ~2.5.
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But don't the actual VNT points depend on how the vanes are? BTW, I'd bet the GT20 and VNT 20 cold sides can be swapped.
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But don't the actual VNT points depend on how the vanes are?
The vanes won't change the characteristics of the compressor map, but they will change how much boost can be produced at what RPM.
Example, I can plot 30 PSI at 500 (five hundred) RPM, but that does not mean the turbo will make 30 PSI at 500 RPM, but we can be pretty sure that it will make 10 PSI at 3000 on the highway, or close to it, so plotting that point will give us some pretty good info, same with 25 PSI at 4500 RPM.
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i have a VNT-25 that i bought off Tintin :) but i'm saving that for my PD motor. that thing should be able to move some serious air.
if you want a turbo that is very robust and will outlast your engine, go with a VNT-20, and use Tintin's linkage setup as a guide. chances are you will wreck the motor before the turbo, just like those TDI guys :lol:
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i have a VNT-25 that i bought off Tintin :) but i'm saving that for my PD motor. that thing should be able to move some serious air.
if you want a turbo that is very robust and will outlast your engine, go with a VNT-20, and use Tintin's linkage setup as a guide. chances are you will wreck the motor before the turbo, just like those TDI guys :lol:
Trying to find a VNT-20 is the problem.
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Kerma has them.
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Well I have been searching for hours and have found nothing!
I can find ones like this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-Turbo-Turbocharger-w-wastegate-Boost-Controller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ002QQitemZ120271301922
And ones close but it looks like that's to big for what I need.
I found a VW manifold with the T3 mount so I can mount it without having to build an adapter (which it what I'll prob end up doing anyway to save money).
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Kerma has them.
Ya, I'm not spending $1200+ on this deal...
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I was willing to try that T3 that Pete has listed on his site but there still not available :(
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i think tintin was selling his vnt-20 for about $600??? having a brand new one sure is nice, but quite pricey!!!
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http://cgi.ebay.de/Turbolader-Turbo-Mercedes-CDI-Garrett-GT20-200CDI-TOP_W0QQitemZ220252146722QQihZ012QQcategoryZ61308QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
that would be a decent turbo... basically a vnt-20 but with a regular wastegate.
zuk the one you posted from ebay is only good for a gasser. the a/r is off by too much.
http://cgi.ebay.de/gebr-Turbolader-Audi-A4-und-A6-TDI_W0QQitemZ170233889502QQihZ007QQcategoryZ61915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
looks like a PD150 turbo right there. 8)
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i think tintin was selling his vnt-20 for about $600??? having a brand new one sure is nice, but quite pricey!!!
Ya for sure.
I think I'm going to have to stick with a t3/t4 deal and make an adapter.
May just weld the flange on the OE manifold so it will bolt right on.
I would like to get a new manifold as well so it just bolts on and may still do that, just with all the other adaption crap I have to deal with as well, New DP and intake set up as well and the inter-cooler piping..
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This one doesnt look to bad but no compressor map to compair to :(
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-45-TRIM-TURBO-CHARGER-stage3-oil-line-dp-flange_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ025QQitemZ380042262114
I would have to build a external waste gate as well.
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zuk the one you posted from ebay is only good for a gasser. the a/r is off by too much.
That's what I thought, what about the last one I posted?
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zuk the one you posted from ebay is only good for a gasser. the a/r is off by too much.
That's what I thought, what about the last one I posted?
COMPRESSOR .42 AR COMPRESSOR
TURBINE .48 AR TURBINE
hmmm thats not bad. it will be more like the mercedes turbo from what andy2 has said. it will be a bit laggier than the T3's that came with our engines, but should stand up to quite a bit of abuse.
if it wasn't for shipping those european turbo's would be awesome!!! :)
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Never dealt with them, but, http://www.spooledmotorsports.com/turbochargerscat.php?category=Used
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Never dealt with them, but, http://www.spooledmotorsports.com/turbochargerscat.php?category=Used
Hmmmmmm!!..
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So this is what it looked like after a 530 miles drive with no turbo.
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=72)
After a quick wash job.
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=74)
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=73)
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PM sent.
275 plus shipping
Jim
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was it smoking bad? maybe that was just the residual oil burning off...
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quickly went through this thread ...... and i could find no one who has sugested compund turbo's .......
compound turbo's would give very fast spool up , but huge amounts of air on the top end , while also giving reliability of a single turbo at stock presure levels ( assuming it's enginered properly )
to prevent the k24 from self destructing at 25 -35 psi , add a bigger turbo that feed into it , taking alot of stress off it , and putting it back with in it's operating limits .
the question is , what would make a good big turbo to pair up with the k24 ?
would something like a k26 be large enough ?
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So this is what it looked like after a 530 miles drive with no turbo.
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=72)
After a quick wash job.
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=74)
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=73)
Dan i wanna see your pics. from coming back from montana!
your link did not work!
and your K26 is on its way with other stuff you ordered from me!
sent out last nite!
Duane
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was it smoking bad? maybe that was just the residual oil burning off...
Picture a TD with a now restricted intake manifold and exhaust manifold being in NA mode with TD fuel.
Ya it was smoking ALLOT!!
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quickly went through this thread ...... and i could find no one who has sugested compund turbo's .......
compound turbo's would give very fast spool up , but huge amounts of air on the top end , while also giving reliability of a single turbo at stock presure levels ( assuming it's enginered properly )
to prevent the k24 from self destructing at 25 -35 psi , add a bigger turbo that feed into it , taking alot of stress off it , and putting it back with in it's operating limits .
the question is , what would make a good big turbo to pair up with the k24 ?
would something like a k26 be large enough ?
Believe me compounds have been considered. Problem being i need to drive the thing. The problem is the mounting/ plumbing of said compound system and the time frame available.
I'm with ya on the k24 but I think a k14 would be better for the small turbo, them something like a T3/T4 with a .50 AR on the cold side and a .68 on the hot side would finish it off.
With that amount of air flowing i'll bet you could keep the pressures down around 15 psi and still have more air than a k26 could move..
Keeping the head bolted down could be a problem though.
Compounds have been done and keeping the head on just didnt happen.
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So this is what it looked like after a 530 miles drive with no turbo.
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=72)
After a quick wash job.
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=74)
(http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=73)
Dan i wanna see your pics. from coming back from Montana!
your link did not work!
and your K26 is on its way with other stuff you ordered from me!
sent out last nite!
Duane
I don't know why they aren't showing up Duane.
http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=72
http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=73
http://www.dubnetworks.net/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=74
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wow :shock: you could almost scrape it off and put it back in the oil pan :roll: L,O,L how was the trip back? run at 70mph all the way home?
Duane
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wow :shock: you could almost scrape it off and put it back in the oil pan :roll: L,O,L how was the trip back? run at 70mph all the way home?
Duane
70???
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Down hill sure.
I could JUST get to 65 on flat ground, hills were a joke..
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Never dealt with them, but, http://www.spooledmotorsports.com/turbochargerscat.php?category=Used
These guys don't appear to be doing business.
There # just rings and no reply to e mail.
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So my current plan sounds like it's going to be to use a K26 center section and compressor, have the K24 exhaust housing machined to clear the 26 exhaust wheel and bolt it on.
I don't have a good 24 wheel and shaft unless the turbo I just bought from blkboostedtruck is the same as the 24 (fingers crossed) so using the 26 wheel and shaft is my only option if I want to keep the spooling of the 24 and get a larger compressor at the same time.
just looks like changing everything over to the T3/4 style turbo is a apin in the butt..
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You can actually use the k24 center section for the hybrid.I have a k24/k26 hybrid sitting around with the k26 turbine wheel machind to fit the k24 housing.I was going to use it on my compound setup however I did some turbo research and figured it would not be efficent as the k26 compressor housing A/R (bigger) is not suited for higher PR's and the k24 turbine housing is a bit small on the A/R.This combo is a bit of a mismatch so I decided to get a 50 trim T3 (not T3/T4 TOO BIG) off ebay.And it spools slow but its a properly matched turbo with a .42 A/R comp and .48 A/R turbine and 50 trim comp and turbine.
The gt20 is nice but won't last forever at 25-30 psi as it has a small shaft when compared to the T3.I've seen these gt20's with broken shafts,they are not that tough Which is why I'd never use one!I would only use a turbo that I know would last The k14 has a bigger shaft than the gt20!
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So here's is where I sit right now.
I ordered a k24-26 rebuild kit from gopropshop and should have it tomorrow, I have a good k26 coming from blkboostedtruck and I will be using the compressor side of that one on my k24 center section along with the k26 shaft and exhaust wheel.
I'm having the k24 exhaust housing machined for the k26 wheel.
This should give me better pressure ratios and help the turbo to live longer and I can just bolt it on without having to fab up stuff.
I do think I'm going to go full blown T3 in the future though.
I'll pick up a manifold with the T3 foot on it then get a NEW t3 and have a small exhaust housing put on it so I can spool it. Thinking I'll get a .28ar on the exhaust and I will use my spare engine to get all the oil feed and drains fabed up and maybe even the DP so when it's time to bolt it all on I will just have to run the IC piping and air filter and be done..
Truth be told I'll prob just refresh the spare engine and just swap engines with the t3 already mounted.
Still up for suggestions/tips as I go here.
I'll post pics of the turbo and it's assembly if I have time before I reassemble it and install it.
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If you can find a compressor map for that K26 I'll plot out a few points for you...
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I wonder how accurate it will be though?
As I'm using the smaller housing off the k24 with the larger k26 wheel (exhaust).
I'll see if I can find one but I don't think I've had any luck in the past trying to find one.
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If you use the cold side compressor housing and comp wheel from the 26 the map will still be accurate. The compressor doesn't care whats turning it as far as its efficiency goes, "whats turning it" only affects when it spools. but using points like 3000 RPM and 10 PSI were pretty safe, ie, the turbo will surely be able to make 10 PSI at 3000 RPM and thats going to be reasonably close to 75 MPH on flat ground...
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Lets see if this works. This is for the K26
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/zukgod1/k26_map2.jpg)
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2.3 for a max pressure ratio is pretty low :?
I'll plot a few points this evening.
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And another one.
I think this one is the turbo I have, it's off an Audi not a Porsche
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/zukgod1/k26_map.jpg)
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That makes more sense for a diesel 8)
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Well I got it put together and bolted to the car last night, it's a good thing no one told me a 26/24 hybrid was a direct bolt on, we would be having words about now.
Had to grind the crap out of the compressor housing to get it to clear the intake manifold.
I drilled some 1/8" holes in the bottom of the IC tanks to drain out any oil left over. I didn't want to pull it again, it's a pain in the butt having to remove the bumper and all the piping.
Took it for a 25 mile drive to just get all the oil blown out of the IC, was only hitting 10 psi.
I had the waste gate @ factory settings and the 2 hole sin the IC compounded the problem. I put some screws in the holes and tightned the WG down.
I think I'm going to T into the line going to the WG and run a line in the car with a bleed screw, install a boost gauge on the exhaust manifold as well so I can get the drive pressures set as close to 1:1 as I can.
Head to Nevada here in a min so if I make it back with the turbo still spinning i'll post u.
I'll get some pics of the destroyed k24 as well when I return.
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zukgod1 ,
is that turbo off of a 5 cyl gas or diesel audi engine ? ....
i'm wondering because i can get my hands on a gas turbo cheap .
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Gasser app I belive.
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So we are blasting down the freeway about 250 miles from home and the car looses power instantly! We go from 80 to 55 and in my mind I'm swearing up a storm saying "I should have just gone T3", anyway I limp it off the exit which was about 1/2 miles away watching the rear view for blue smoke that never came thank goodness, stopped under a over pass as it was at least 100deg outside. Popped the hood and BAM!!!! I didn't tighten one of the IC clamps enough and it had blown off. Dodged a bullet there. Still have another 300 mile run home so hope she just keeps going.
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So what have you noticed in the 1st 250 miles as far as boost and power go in cmparison to your old setup? Earlier, later, different shift points etc?
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To be honest I can't tell a difference. Seems to spool about the same, maybe just a tad slower. I can't get more than 20psi out of it but I haven't really been trying either. I noticed my EGTs seem to get higher going up long inclines. I'm kinda thinking maybe the tubing I used for the air filter maybe be to small and possibly restricting the intake some. The inlet on the 26 is smaller so I wasn't able to use the OE intake boot. I used some of the left one 2" IC tubing I had.
I think when I get home I'll see about making a larger intake and use if that will help.
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Well we made it home. Other than the scare when the IC boot blew nothing exciting to report.
To be honest I'm kinda bummed about this "upgrade". It spool's a little slower and I can't tell a difference at all on the EGT's or power.
Seems to me if anything they (EGT's) are a tad higher, this may be due to using the 24 housing and machining it for the 26 wheel making it smaller inside and increasing back pressure.
I'm going to get another boost gauge to check driver pressures as a reference. This will tell me if I have to much back pressure due to the small housing.
I changed the intake last night to the OE intake just had to make a bushing to get it to fit but that didn't help.
Right now the WG doesn't even have a boost reference tube going to it.
20psi is max and I'm still getting allot of smoke in the upper RPM's.
I still don't think I'm getting enough air.. :(
I've played with the waste gate till I got sick of it.
I just dont think I'm going ot be happy with this set up.
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Give me shout if you want to go .48 turbine, .42 comp, 45 trim.
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Give me shout if you want to go .48 turbine, .42 comp, 45 trim.
I will, save your PM..
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I still vote for:
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pts/712415462.html
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I still vote for:
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pts/712415462.html
Well crap had I seen that before I waisted all my money...!!!
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my car has gone through several t3's... so until i do a gt20 or gt25 or maybe a vnt... this latest t3 i have the boost turned wayyy down.. i'd rather drive it slow and weak than not at all. and it's a summer car only.
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my car has gone through several t3's... so until i do a gt20 or gt25 or maybe a vnt... this latest t3 i have the boost turned wayyy down.. i'd rather drive it slow and weak than not at all. and it's a summer car only.
I hear ya, I've done the same.. 20 psi max and no fast shifts causing it to bark... Not as much fun to drive but as you mentioned it's better than not driving it at all.
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Hey Zuk, what exactly is causing the 'bark' from the turbo?
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DUMPING fuel in there and shifting while @ 30+ psi..
Sounds really cool until it goes "zzziiiiIIIIIINNNNNGGggggg" then it's not fun anymore :(