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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Riverfurm on July 05, 2008, 07:49:42 am
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Well I thought I had a head gasket problem but now I think I have a block problem. It's a 1.6 turbo solid cam. I saw some leakage between the head and block so I thought I would replace the head gasket. While I had the head off I installed studs. It was fine for a while but then I got a coolant leak at the front of the engine. It seemed to be coming from the head gasket. Put some stop leak in and it stopped but, it would burn some coolant about a pint for 750-1000 miles. Installed another head gasket. Coolant leak came back, Installed a new (brand new) head still the same problem.
Tried to check the deck of the block for straightness seemed OK. Also it consume allot more coolant and their seems to be more prs. then before in the coolant system. I think their is a crack somewhere on the block.
Any other ideals?????
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Did you check the head for straightness and cracks? That's more common than block deck warp.
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Did you check the head for straightness and cracks? That's more common than block deck warp.
You think a brand new head would be wrapped and cracked from the factory. and leak in the same place????
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Sounds to me that you've bought a new head for nothing. Not many places an engine [diesel] can leak coolant and as you say burn it. I suggest your not burning it but leaking it.
750 to 1000 miles to loose a pint of coolant could take a long time to drive that distance with coolant under operating pressure. Only a pin hole neccessary. I had a leak facing engine in the waterpump to back of engine 's' hose. It left no residue and only leaked when driving in the form of a fine steam jet. Always shut off before totally depressurising coolant. I cannot remember how I found it. I seem to recall I'd given up and happened across it by accident.
1 US baby pint is only 16 fluid ounces isn't it? Leakin at less than 1cc per 2 miles....
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Sounds to me that you've bought a new head for nothing. Not many places an engine [diesel] can leak coolant and as you say burn it. I suggest your not burning it but leaking it.
750 to 1000 miles to loose a pint of coolant could take a long time to drive that distance with coolant under operating pressure. Only a pin hole neccessary. I had a leak facing engine in the waterpump to back of engine 's' hose. It left no residue and only leaked when driving in the form of a fine steam jet. Always shut off before totally depressurising coolant. I cannot remember how I found it. I seem to recall I'd given up and happened across it by accident.
1 US baby pint is only 16 fluid ounces isn't it? Leakin at less than 1cc per 2 miles....
Oops you do say that you've found seepages :roll:
Not much chance of getting from block to combustion unless face of block corroded. Try a steel rule and feeler gauges to test for flatness :idea:
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I did use a steel ruler and found it to be straight. Three gaskets and one new head and I have the same problem, there is something going on with the block. I have combustion gases in the cooling system, and the coolant disappears with no leaks on the ground. I have prs test the cooling system and found no leaks. I have seen a crack in the cyl. bore on other diesel engines (Kubota) and maybe that is what I have. Its very hard to see. Also when I am driving and hit a big hill and have a steady boost of 10 psi the coolant temp will start to shot up. This did not happen before this problem, it would hold a steady 190 F.
I use this car for work as my shop car. I have a few hundred pounds of tools in it and work gives me the fuel for it. So with the price of fuel I need to get it fixed.
So right now I am looking for a short block.
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I have a few 1.6 TD cores
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Maybe I should go this route....
http://www.gex.com/17edslup.htm
I wonder what mods have to be done for the 1.9 to fit.
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Are you sure your not leaking it from the rad or a loose hose?
I had a similar problem and after much stressing I found a loose clamp top rad hose. It was running down the passenger side tank and not really enough to see a leak after parking it over night either.
Just an idea.
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I only wish I did. I have a liquid that I use to detect exhaust gases in the cooling system. It will change color from blue to yellow, and it did. And yesterday it overheated over a long pull up a hill. Since the head has been replaced it pretty much rules that out. At this point I would have to pull the motor out, disassemble it and have the block magnaflux for cracks. So I will need a short block and thats what I am looking for now. This engine was overhauled before I got it. It was bored over sized, I don't know how far you can go before it's a problem.
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I order a short block from Parts Place for $1295. They said it would take about 3 weeks, I gave them a deposit of $500. Hope I didn't make a big mistake????
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I order a short block from Parts Place for $1295. They said it would take about 3 weeks, I gave them a deposit of $500. Hope I didn't make a big mistake????
depends on what exactly you get for $1295. is it just the bare block, or is it the complete short block (no head) ???
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I talked to them what a short block consist of. The block and all of the rotating parts plus oil pump. No tin (oil pan and other sheet metal parts). I hope they use a good machine shop!