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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jackbombay on April 28, 2005, 04:13:00 pm
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My TD has not run in, well I am not really sure how long. It has all new belts and is timed correctly (on the advanced edge of the spec). I have pulled fuel throught the pump with a mighty vac, fresh motor oil, and all fluids are topped up.
Should I crack the injector lines and crank till the oil pressure light goes out then snug up the injector lines? Do this to get oil throughout the motor before it fires up, or is that unnecessary?
Any other things to do/check before I turn the Key for the first time on my conversion?
TIA
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You're cracking the injector lines to bleed air out of the pump & injector lines. Sounds like it's all ready to go - I've heard of a couple drops of oil in through the injector holes to make sure the upper cyliners are lubed, but that may be unneccesary -
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The pump should be full of fuel, but I was thinking of cracking the lines so it would not start so that motor oil could get to the turbo and all the other moving parts. Sound good?
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if you're worried about the turbo at startup, don't. :lol:
it should be fine. Only a few seconds of oil starvation shouldn't do much at all (just think about when the car is left for a week without running, cylinders should be nearly completely drained of any lube and they start pretty good)
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You can disconnect the wire to the fuel solenoid if you don't want it to start. Don't be surprised if it burns a bit of oil or smokes a lot for the first little while.
Steve
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haul out the vacuum pump. Put a 6 mm allen socket (or whatever size) on the end of a 6" or longer 3/8" extension and chuck the allen into a drill. fit the square end of the extension over the tip of the oil pump driveshaft and spin it with the drill. for easiest results, put a test light between the battery positive terminal and the upper oil pressure switch to tell when the pressure's up. Let her rip for a minute or two. This'll pump up the lifters and lube everything, including the cylinder walls via the oil squirters.
put it all back together and fire up without worry. If you've had the injection system apart, crack the fittings at the injectors and crank until they start to leak.
good fun
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Unfortunatley the 2.0 has a different oil pump set-up, it is driven directly by the crank so it can't spin independent of the motor. This engine is quite similar to the inline 6 in the volvos, my vaccum pump is driven by a belt off the back end of the cam though, unlike the few volvos Diesels I have seen.
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Jack, have you turned the engine over several revolutions by hand to ensure the valves are missing the pistons (sanity check on your timing)? If you have, just do as a couple guys suggest by cranking with either the fuel solenoid disconnected or the lines cracked. Once you see ANY oil pressure on a gauge (or 10 seconds of cranking), button everything up and fire that beastie! :twisted:
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when you crack open the lines at the injectors you usually just open the one line at cylinder #1. Then crank until the engine kicks, retighten the line, and start her up. Also what kind of oil do you have in the car? You should maybe put some thin synthetic, like say Castrol syntec 5/40 or something like that, so that you get a lot of flow right up front as soon as you crank. You don't want anything too thick that will take a while to build up pressure.
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I've turned the motor over many revolutions by hand, good to go there.
I've actuall got some 15/40 Delo in there, maybe I'll set the 500 Watt work light under the oil pan to warm it up before I crank it over.
I'll report back this afternoon, I've got a few things to do that slipped my mind, and I seem to have a coolant leak at one of the connections for coolant to the heater core :(
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Well I turned the key, it seems to cough on 2 or 3 of the 5 cylinders, and someone put a bunch of exahaust in my coolant expansion tank before I started cranking appearantly, because after blowing some smoke out the tail pipe there was smoke and a lot of pressure in the coolant expansion tank...
I know, I'm looking for a headgasket now :evil: :x :cry: ...
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:shock: OUCH!!!!!!!!!!! :(
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you might be eligible for a new headgasket!! fun fun fun
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you might be eligible for a new headgasket!! fun fun fun
I was under the impression that it could only be a bad HG, is there something else that could cause this?
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Well I turned the key, it seems to cough on 2 or 3 of the 5 cylinders, and someone put a bunch of exahaust in my coolant expansion tank before I started cranking appearantly, because after blowing some smoke out the tail pipe there was smoke and a lot of pressure in the coolant expansion tank...
I know, I'm looking for a headgasket now :evil: :x :cry: ...
I know I'm missing something here but where exactly did you get this engine from, and why did you think it would run if you put it in your quantum? It seems an awful risk to take, if indeed you took it, to put an engine whose condition is completely unknown, into your car, and then say your prayers and hope it will start.
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The guy I bought it from said it was a "runner", which is what he was told by the guy he bought it from (met him later on here) , which is what he was told when he purchased it. I could not see/hear the motor run before purchase because it was not installed. This was the case for the last 2 owners as well.
It suppose I should have asked to pull the head off before purchase, but that would have cost a bunch of unnecessary work had it all been good to start with as believed, all though it would have saved my current headache that is far more labor/cash intensive :( . Live and learn...
I believe that the 2 previous owners are/have been truthfull, I knew there was a risk with this motor for sure, and I "Lost". It would have been a good deal had the motor been a "runner"...
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precisely the reason why I never buy a used motor unless it is in the car and startable or has been rebuilt and I can talk to the person who rebuilt it. (or if it's on a stand and hooked up to run). I have absolutely no faith or trust in other human beings, and so far this outlook on life has saved me lots of money.
Sucks that you got burned on a motor. It happened to me once back when I was 16 (young and stupid) and I bought this black rabbit with a supposedly blown head gasket that was supposed to be an easy fix. Turns out the cylinders were so worn that the walls had deep grooves in the tops of them (engine needed re-sleeving), the head was warped, and the entire engine was full of coolant, which had been sitting in the bearings for about a month, completely rusting them into worthless garbage. The engine was a complete loss. To top it off, the car had been in an accident some time in the past and had been "fixed" by someone who didn't understand geometry, and the body was not straight, so the tires were badly worn (I thought at first it was alignment until the guy at the shop showed me the creases in the underbody). Since then, I've never trusted anyone who is selling me a used car, a used car part, or a used engine.
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No need to rub it in...
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No need to rub it in...
sorry. I've been burned buying used stuff before so I know how it feels
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Yeah so no big deal, just pull the head, get the head checked and replace the gasket. If you can re and re an engine you can definitely do a head gasket.
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The money for a rebuild is the problem though. Head is warped, $300 to align bore and flatten it with new valves, and $350 to hot tank the block, sleeve the bad cylinder and hone all 5 holes. I will need rings head bolts, bearings and maybe a piston or 2. I am also looking for a used motor from a wrecker and weighing my options...
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>> It suppose I should have asked to pull the head off before purchase, but that would have cost a bunch of unnecessary work had it all been good to start with as believed
I feel your pain. I would have done the same thing as you. I guess I take people at face value a bit too much and hope for the best. Also, for me at least, the initial excitement of really pushing forward on an exciting project (like a QSW-D) would have pushed me past the point of disassembling everything first.
I've been following your project since the start and I felt bad when your ran into this problem.
>>The money for a rebuild is the problem though. Head is warped, $300 to align bore and flatten it with new valves, and $350 to hot tank the block, sleeve the bad cylinder and hone all 5 holes.
Yikes... seems like a lot of expense. If it's any consolation, just think of what peace of mind you'll have when you have a completely rebuilt motor that you KNOW is sound.
>>I will need rings head bolts, bearings and maybe a piston or 2. I am also looking for a used motor from a wrecker and weighing my options...
Are the 5-cyl diesels that plentiful out there? I don't think I've EVER seen one on the road or in a yard here in my area (Ohio / Kentucky).
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Are the 5-cyl diesels that plentiful out there? I don't think I've EVER seen one on the road or in a yard here in my area (Ohio / Kentucky).
They are NOT, that is part of the problem, I have never seen one either, although the rebuilder called it before I had the back of the station wagon open.
the initial excitement of really pushing forward on an exciting project (like a QSW-D) would have pushed me past the point of disassembling everything first.
So true...