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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: subsonic on March 15, 2008, 10:18:16 am
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I have been looking for some info on this. I did a search on google but mostly came up with lightened aluminum intermediate shaft pulleys.
I did find a picture of a turned and balanced one on line. It looks like it would be quite a bit lighter. I will give them a call and talk to him about it.http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/605702921.html
Does anyone here have any experience with with this? Anyone done it, or have a good link to some information on it?
I would think that having this lightened and balanced will help extend the life of the intermediate shaft bearings, as well as reducing reciprocating mass.
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anyone?
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How much does a stock intermediate shaft weigh? And isn't it's only point really to drive the oil pump?
I know the 5-cylinder diesels don't have them...
Also, I doubt the intermediate shaft contributes anything to reciprocating mass. Rotational mass perhaps, but since the intermediate shaft only spins instead of oscillating in any fashion, I can't imagine it contributing anything to reciprocation mass.
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Also it looks like it turns at about 1/2 the engine rpm, so lightening it wouldn't have as much effect as weight off the crank/flywheel.
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i may do it on my tdi-m right now,but yea,its not gonna be a big gain cause its 1/2 crank speed
but its somethin easy to do cause i got a lathe+im a nutty power junky
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I figure if it's out, it cant be that hard to do. Set it up on the lathe, back and forth, a few times. Just like turning straight bar stock. Finish up with the emory cloth.
It's been a while since I picked mine up, but I remember it was not light. I think you could get some good weight off it, not to mention doing this would probably help true it up.
Like you said hillfolk'r, it may not be a big gain, but it's an easy gain. Take it where you can get it :lol:
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Just sent this to the guy who was selling the kit at the beginning of the post. I will post the response when I get it.
Hey Josh,
I saw the add you have going on for the 2.0 engine kit. I am building a high output 1.6TD. I am looking to go from 68 to 200hp. I cant use what you have up for sale, but I do have a question for you. I have been looking into getting my intermediate shaft lightened. I have it out allready. I know it only turns at half engine rpm, but it looks like easy weight to lose. I have not been able to find much information on the subject. I see people selling light weight pulleys, but nothing on the shaft itself.
I have just had my con-rods polished and shot peened, cranks done, new pistons are back from swain tech, etc. I will be having the rotating assembly professionally balanced in a week or so. I would like to have the shaft balanced as well.
Did you keep track of the weight difference before and after?
I am kind of worried that if I take too much off of the shaft in the center I will get flex, even if it is balanced.
What did you mean in the add when you said the shaft had been clearanced?
Thanks, Jim
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I was looking at the IM shaft today. I tried to take a picture but the batteries died right as I pushed tthe button. :x
There seems to be a pretty good taper to the shaft, much thicker on one end, running down to quite a bit thinner on the otherend. There is also a fairly large offset lobe on the shaft near where it connects to the vacume pump. Perhaps 3-4 inches away. The lobe looks like it sits right under the plate cover on the block that is held on by 3 bolts, right next to the vacume pump. Pictures would help I know, I will try to get some tomorrow on the way to work. What the hell is the lobe for? Is that a throwback for a gasser engine? It looks like if you ground off the lobe, and turned the shaft OD to the size on the small end, you could remove a fair amount of material. What do you think?
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Don't quote me on this but I think these diesel were meant to have a lift pump that runs off the lobe.
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12943 (http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12943)
See in the second pic it has a lift pump and on the filter it looks like there is a pressure relief valve, regulator or check valve, not sure which, so it supplies constant pressure. Someone on here said the IM shaft has opposite ground oil/vacuum drive gears so it is diesel specific. I think you would see small gains from balancing the IM shaft, the factory casting looks pretty sloppy.
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Just sent this to the guy who was selling the kit at the beginning of the post. I will post the response when I get it.
Hey Josh,
I saw the add you have going on for the 2.0 engine kit. I am building a high output 1.6TD. I am looking to go from 68 to 200hp. I cant use what you have up for sale, but I do have a question for you. I have been looking into getting my intermediate shaft lightened. I have it out allready. I know it only turns at half engine rpm, but it looks like easy weight to lose. I have not been able to find much information on the subject. I see people selling light weight pulleys, but nothing on the shaft itself.
I have just had my con-rods polished and shot peened, cranks done, new pistons are back from swain tech, etc. I will be having the rotating assembly professionally balanced in a week or so. I would like to have the shaft balanced as well.
Did you keep track of the weight difference before and after?
I am kind of worried that if I take too much off of the shaft in the center I will get flex, even if it is balanced.
What did you mean in the add when you said the shaft had been clearanced?
Thanks, Jim
Got the response:
" Jim:
I can lighten your intermediate shaft. I lighten intermediate shafts regularly. I take about 50 grams off. Probably more important than taking the weight off the shaft is when it is machined it is also being balanced, because a stock intermediate shaft doesnt spin very true. I have many 200+hp naturally aspirated street engines with lightened intermediate shafts and they work perfect. I charge $60.00 to lighten and balance your intermediate shaft. I do intermediate shafts in batches, so it will take roughly 2 weeks. Just to let you know I also lighten connecting rods as well. I take 50 grams off each connecting rod. If you look at the picture on craigslist real close you will see that the connecting rods have been lightened. I will also have a display at the Woodburn bug run. THANKS"
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http://scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=23
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IIRC the lobe is for the fuel pump on the old carbed gassers
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I'm not absolutely sure of this, but I think I saw an application where the lobe was also used to help power a dry-sump oil system.
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Some more info:
"So do you take the taper out of the shaft? What about the lobe that is on the shaft, near the gear end, that drives the vacume pump? Do you take that off as well?"
Reply:
"I take the taper out of the intermediate shaft as well as the bump."
From doing a bit of reading, it appears that the IM shaft is pretty rough, and I suspect, not very balanced.
:idea: I am going to put forth the hypothesis that the IM shaft being out of balance is one of the leading causes of the dreaded IM shaft bearing failure / flaking.
I would further suggest that balancing the shaft will reduce or eliminate many of these failures. :idea:
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I wonder if the AAZ shafts are different. Not that I was looking for one, but I don't remember any bump on mine, just the 2 bearing surfaces and the gear. I think I would have noticed a bump.
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I will get a picture up of mine today if possible. I guess if anyone has a AAZ shaft they can snap a picture of, we can compare them.
Does the AAZ engine have the same problems with the IM shaft bearings going bad?
If it does not, and the shaft does not have the extra lobe on it, that may help support my idea about the failures on the 1.6 models.
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Unfortunately if this thread was a few weeks earlier, I could have taken pics.
BTW, my bearings looked great although they supposedly have less than 50k on them.
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Here are the photo's: (still looking for someone to add a AAZ IM shaft photo)
Full shot of the IM shaft. You may be able to see the taper. The end that has the gear to drive the vacume pump is the smaller diameter end. The lobe for the old style fuel injection pump is on the right.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0366.jpg)
The big side and the small side of the lobe. Close up.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0367.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0368.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0370.jpg)
These are pictures of scoring on the end of the shaft. If I run my finger nail over them I can barely feel them. Any opinions on weather you think this will be ok if it polished off?
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0373.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0372.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0371.jpg)
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That looks like the area where the seal rides.I dont think thats metal bearing surface right there.strange,dont know why the seal would do that.Unless there was dirt and debris slowly grinding away 8)NEVER MIND im wrong im thinking of something else :oops: ,You could polish and fit a new bearing. :)
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It may be a seal there, I will need to check the bentley.
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I believe that is where the seal rides. My AAZ shaft sure didn't look like that, so I guess it has no hump.
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From what I've read on vwvortex, im shafts badly need to be lightened and balanced.
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important /critical,huh??
i i really dont see where itll make a huge difference still,,being its running 1/2 speed
but if you are going all out,it cant hurt
id think there would be more gain by running no dampener pulley
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I don't think it is critical. But what the hell. I have it out and sitting at the machine shop. No way that thing is very balanced looking like that. Couldn't get much easier than it is right now to clean it up. Couple passes on a lathe. BAM!! Drop a little weight, get rid of some shake. :lol:
Hell, if I had it out on a N/A I would do it to. Course there is no way I would be tearing this thing out of an engine just to turn and balance it.
Just one of those things you should do while it's apart I guess.
I post a picture when it's done.
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How did your lightening and balancing go? Any before and after pics/weights? Was that Techtonics you contacted about doing this for you?
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The guy who was turning it probably has it done. I need to go ask him. Last time I was there he was way busy. He builds race engines on the side, and everyone wants to get started in the spring. I will post a photo of the finished product for comparison with the photo at the top of the post.
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Weighing before and after would have been interesting to do some mathematics... :cry:
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Perhaps there is another member who has one out of the car.
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Tempting to pull mine and balance it, while I have my engine out.
Not to threadjack, but from what I understand, the lobe can be completely removed?
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Yep, That baby comes right off when it is turned.
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When I did mine, I talked to the builder about the shaft. He builds mega-horsepower race engines every day. His feelings were to put it in a lathe and cut off the lobe and clean off the casting marks (reduces stress points) and install it with new bearings.
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Subsonic, who did you originally talk to that does several of these each week? I'd like to send mine to someone who has done a few before. Thanks.
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There are a few links to people who do it on the first page. Any machine shop should be able to.
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Went by the shop today to drop off some bolts. Sitting on a shelf was my IM shaft, all turned and polished. :D I did not have my camera with me, but I will snap some pics for sure before it goes back in. My bud said that when he spun it in his lathe he was shocked. The ends spun mostly true, but the middle, in his professional opinion:
"Looked like a nasty tree branch spinning around."
"It was god awful."
"It was completly unbalanced and vibrating like a mother ***er."
He said that after he finished turning it down, and polishing it with emory cloth the vibrations were gone and it spun nice and true.
Niiice 8)
Pictures of my shaft to follow :wink: :lol:
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Perhaps there is another member who has one out of the car.
I have mine out of my 1.6 ECOdiesel. I will weigh it tomorrow. I'm considering having it turned down.
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I won't post a pic of my shaft but since it isn't turned down then my shaft should be bigger than yours and still vibrating like a MF :wink: :lol:
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I won't post a pic of my shaft but since it isn't turned down then my shaft should be bigger than yours and still vibrating like a MF :wink: :lol:
True, but mine has more miles of use on it:lol: :lol:
Perhaps there is another member who has one out of the car.
I have mine out of my 1.6 ECOdiesel. I will weigh it tomorrow. I'm considering having it turned down.
That would be really cool. I was told there was a substantial pile of metal after it was done being turned. I am guesssing it is between 1-4 onces lighter.
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this is very interesting... the IM shaft is quite large... and it seems as though it doesn't really need to be that big. does oil pressure and vacuum pump make THAT much stress???
while i can still take mine out, maybe i'll see about having it turned :wink:
thanks!
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When I got my rabbit out of the junkyard the IM was broken off were the pulley goes. No clue why.
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This thread is great, just loaded with inuendo!
For any UK readers of Viz magazine... Finbar saunders would have a field day here!.
:lol:
For US readers.. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finbarr_Saunders)
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this is very interesting... the IM shaft is quite large... and it seems as though it doesn't really need to be that big.
While i can still take mine out, maybe i'll see about having it turned :wink:
thanks!
Bigger is normally better, but having a light shaft that you can use at high speed definitely has it's advantages if you want to get the motor revving and warmed up fast. :lol:
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All we need now is a well placed "that's what she said"
I just weighed my IM shaft.
3.2 lbs. +/- .1
1452 grams or 1.452 kg
I live very close to SCCH http://scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=23 so I think I may pay them a visit to see if they can true and lighten diesel IM shafts.
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I just weighed my IM shaft.
3.2 lbs. +/- .1
1452 grams or 1.452 kg
Nice work. Is that weight for just the shaft, or does it include the bolt and washer? I am going to make a guess and say that there will be some deviations between shafts due the rough casting quality of the center section, but this is a great start. I should be able to get pictures tommorow. I will also measure the new OD of the shaft.
What did yo use to weigh it?
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I weighed it without the bolt and washer. I used my wife's digital scale which reads to the tenth of a pound. I weighed myself and then myself + IM shaft 4 separate times then took the average. I will verify the IM shaft's weight with a digital balance I use at work.
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I was hoping to use my high speed digital reloading scale to measure the weight, but I just checked and it's only good up to 100 grams / 3.527 ounces. Accurate to a 10th of a grain, but not able to weigh the shaft. Going to have to find somthing else accurate to use.
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I looked through are there any pictures I missed of the finished balanced shaft? I saw the before ones, just wondering.
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(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/CS147J111170/Intershaft.jpg)[/img]
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SWEET! :shock: :D
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very nice!!!
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Here you go, before and after shots: Worth doing if it's out.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0366.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0395.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0370.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0367.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0398.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0399.jpg)
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That looks sweet! I'm pulling my engine today and want to send off my IM shaft. Where did you have yours turned and balanced and how long did it take to get it back?
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I am definitely getting that done to my SB project :shock:
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Friend at a local machine shop did it for me. Any decent shop should be able to do a good job. Cost me one loaded cheese steak .
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Cost me one loaded cheese steak .
lol
locally I believe its going to be more expensive than that, a lot of machine shops closed, and the ones still open demand a lot for puny jobs like these :(
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I just installed my lightened and balanced intermediate shaft.
Here are the pics:
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/13-CIMG0963.jpg)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff271/xedice/VW%2008%20-%20Intermediate%20Shaft/14-CIMG0962.jpg)
Overall impressions: I don't notice any difference in power. The intermediate shaft spins at half the engine speed anyway. But my old intermediate shaft was broken, and I had to take my new one to the machine shop anyway, so I had this done.
I'm glad I did it though, one less part to worry about. And any freed up weight, no matter how small, is welcome on my car (it is an N/A, it needs all the help it can get)
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Well, if you took off a pound or so of rotating mass, it is going to free up power. It might be hard to tell, but trueing the shaft must help with vibrations. In stock form it is ungodly out of balance. Nice work. I see you turned behind the gear as well. Nice job.
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Neat job, but was it worthwhile? Shavings amount to a couple of oz's at most. Moment of inertia at 2000 rpm at max? But less than 1500 generally. 1cm from axis?
Remember the offending lobe was only the bit in excess of the ring of meat all way round.
As Sir Walter Raleigh would say "Small potatoes"
Nice lathe sample though :lol:
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Worthwhile is subjective. The part needed to be replaced, and he all ready had it at the machine shop. Turning the shft is a very simpy job. Cost should have been low. There is no question that the part is improved. Balance has been improved and weight reduced, both good things. Is it the same as a flywheel turned down to 10 pounds? No.
Does it help with engine performance / longevity? Yes.
Would I pull the IM shaft just to turn it? No way. If I had it out during an engine rebuild, and had the opportunity to improve it at a low cost, would I? I sure would. Lots of small improvments add up to a better engine, cost goes up, but you still end up with a better product.
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Man I got my IM shaft just sitting here...I think I may throw it in the lathe today and turn mine down.
so did they take the tapper completely out of the shaft??
this should be a real easy job...I will weight mine before and after too.
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Some more info:
"So do you take the taper out of the shaft? What about the lobe that is on the shaft, near the gear end, that drives the vacume pump? Do you take that off as well?"
Reply:
"I take the taper out of the intermediate shaft as well as the bump."
From doing a bit of reading, it appears that the IM shaft is pretty rough, and I suspect, not very balanced.
:idea: I am going to put forth the hypothesis that the IM shaft being out of balance is one of the leading causes of the dreaded IM shaft bearing failure / flaking.
I would further suggest that balancing the shaft will reduce or eliminate many of these failures. :idea:
Interesting!!! Then how do you run the vacuum pump, once you've installed the new lightened/balanced/bumpless IM shaft?
J.R.
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Some more info:
"So do you take the taper out of the shaft? What about the lobe that is on the shaft, near the gear end, that drives the vacume pump? Do you take that off as well?"
Reply:
"I take the taper out of the intermediate shaft as well as the bump."
From doing a bit of reading, it appears that the IM shaft is pretty rough, and I suspect, not very balanced.
:idea: I am going to put forth the hypothesis that the IM shaft being out of balance is one of the leading causes of the dreaded IM shaft bearing failure / flaking.
I would further suggest that balancing the shaft will reduce or eliminate many of these failures. :idea:
Interesting!!! Then how do you run the vacuum pump, once you've installed the new lightened/balanced/bumpless IM shaft?
J.R.
there is a gear on the end of the shaft for the vac pump...that part stays stock 8)
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(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/CS147J111170/Intershaft.jpg)[/img]
that gear on the right drives the vac pump
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Man I got my IM shaft just sitting here...I think I may throw it in the lathe today and turn mine down.
so did they take the tapper completely out of the shaft??
this should be a real easy job...I will weight mine before and after too.
Correct, taper was removed. After the old gasser lobe was removed, it is just a matter of removing the taper with a few passes until you have the same dia at each ends. You can also turn behind the gear a bit if you want. I would not turn it too much. Finish up with emory cloth. If you have the equipment or access to the equipment go for it.
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Man I got my IM shaft just sitting here...I think I may throw it in the lathe today and turn mine down.
so did they take the tapper completely out of the shaft??
this should be a real easy job...I will weight mine before and after too.
Correct, taper was removed. After the old gasser lobe was removed, it is just a matter of removing the taper with a few passes until you have the same dia at each ends. You can also turn behind the gear a bit if you want. I would not turn it too much. Finish up with emory cloth. If you have the equipment or access to the equipment go for it.
Sweet thanks for the info...I just weighted it and mine was 3.0 lbs even on a digital postal scale.....
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well I did it...it was real easy too.(since my work has a lathe)
MAN i can not believe the wobble this thing had in the lathe!!!! it was WAAAAY out of balance..now it is smooth as silk 8)
here are my before and after pics...
before 3.0lbs
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j240/53willys/1991%20Jetta%20GLI%20diesel%20conversion/imshaftbefore2.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j240/53willys/1991%20Jetta%20GLI%20diesel%20conversion/imshaftbefore.jpg)
After 2.75lbs
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j240/53willys/1991%20Jetta%20GLI%20diesel%20conversion/imshaftafter.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j240/53willys/1991%20Jetta%20GLI%20diesel%20conversion/imshaftafter2.jpg)
so I lost about 4oz's.... I weighed it on a different scale and it says I lost 5oz's
the scale I used does not break it down lower so the numbers may be +/- 1oz
I would think this mod would be worth the balancing alone..the weight loss can just be a bonus...lol
Sorry for the crappy pics...iphone is a cool little phone but it sucks as a camera.
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Worthwhile is subjective. The part needed to be replaced, and he all ready had it at the machine shop. Turning the shft is a very simpy job. Cost should have been low. There is no question that the part is improved. Balance has been improved and weight reduced, both good things. Is it the same as a flywheel turned down to 10 pounds? No.
Does it help with engine performance / longevity? Yes.
Would I pull the IM shaft just to turn it? No way. If I had it out during an engine rebuild, and had the opportunity to improve it at a low cost, would I? I sure would. Lots of small improvments add up to a better engine, cost goes up, but you still end up with a better product.
A few thoughts...
The shaft certainly looks better. I didn't realise it was so heavy. So you took off about 5 oz's, probably not significant momentum wise. I wonder why it was tapered in the first place?.
How common is the diaphragm type of vaccuum pump compared to the rotor type? My thoughts are on the amount of 'work done' by the shaft and whether its pulsed. Additionally because the oil drive is taken off tangentially, I wonder if it causes a degree of bowing, which would increase with your machining? Would this be detrimental to the bearings?
I have yet to take one of these shafts out. Sourcing bearings in UK is not possible AFAIK! Which bearing usually goes first? Neither?
I wonder if loading of the 2 pumps is insignificant compared with pulsed and continuous leverage from the timing belt; correctly tensioned, let alone over tightened :?:
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I just checked the dia on mine. It is still .70". I did not measure the length of the turned shaft but it is not very long. You would have to have some pretty good force on it to get flex.
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I never heard of a diaphragm vacuum pump, the lobe is there for a diaphragm fuel pump in the gasser applications.
I remember seeing a pic of it being used on a diesel, but on a early stage of development of the 1.5D.
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I never heard of a diaphragm vacuum pump, the lobe is there for a diaphragm fuel pump in the gasser applications.
I remember seeing a pic of it being used on a diesel, but on a early stage of development of the 1.5D.
it installs where the distributer would be driven on a gasser.
i've only even seen a diaphragm in use.
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dodge used this engine as a gasser. i think it had a mechanical pump which would be where the lobe was. not 100% certain though
question i have is how are the harmonics of this new engine? does it idle smoother?
i've made thousands of those shafts for other diesels, and unless someone overgrinds one they should all weigh the same.
my thinking for the taper is, the shaft was smaller going to the lobe, where extra material was added (for the lobe). then making it more balanced in gerneral but not very perfect.
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dodge used this engine as a gasser. i think it had a mechanical pump which would be where the lobe was. not 100% certain though
question i have is how are the harmonics of this new engine? does it idle smoother?
i've made thousands of those shafts for other diesels, and unless someone overgrinds one they should all weigh the same.
my thinking for the taper is, the shaft was smaller going to the lobe, where extra material was added (for the lobe). then making it more balanced in gerneral but not very perfect.
Maybe the mismatch of the lobe was counteracted by the sprung lever of the gasser pump. Is there a possibility of creating a lift pump for the diesel when it gets old... perhaps a gasser pump would do it?
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perhaps, but i would have to look at a dodge gasser to find out if i'm right on thefuel pump. would be a late 70's eily 80's before the 2.2 came out. also would the ve pump benifit a lift pump? i know dodge/cummins guys do it w/ ve pumps and p pumps when looking for power.
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a lot of vw people even put a lift pump in, like daves nearly 200hp jetta td. it'd nice to use something so oem like a carbureted rabbits fuel pump
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Omni-Plymouth-Horizon-CARTER-Fuel-Pump-78-83_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34198QQihZ004QQitemZ140261740962QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
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you guy's are right on top of it. so who is willing to try it?
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you guy's are right on top of it. so who is willing to try it?
Don't look at me ;) our diesel is sooo good we don't know what a water separator is, and all our pumps spout like fire hydrants [sp]
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I'm damn tempted but I'm already running a pusher pump from back where the seperator used to be.
BTW can get that pump from Partsamerica.com for $26.00
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i think it'd work but its kind of weird since it will increase volume with higher engine speeds, which i think may be an issue? but also if these could be used as a vacuum pump that is dependent on rpm it would be a good solution for the vnt, and then also attach the throttle to it for when you are wot.
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i think it'd work but its kind of weird since it will increase volume with higher engine speeds, which i think may be an issue? but also if these could be used as a vacuum pump that is dependent on rpm it would be a good solution for the vnt, and then also attach the throttle to it for when you are wot.
I think these kind of pumps 'max out' because some of the vehicles they're on don't have a fuel return and would burst a pipe when float chamber shut off on a carb. REmember the Gunsens fuel pump/vac testers?
EDIT My prettyglass domed pump onthe 1970 Bedford CF is rated at 2 to 3 1/2 psi.
Edit pt 2 ,the Quantum 1.6/1.8 have a pump rated at 2.9 to 3.6 psi and the 1.9 5 ganger is 5.1to 5.8psi
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I saw a diagram of that fuel pump on a diesel once, I think it had a pressure regulator on top of the fuel filter so you'd feed the IP constant pressure and the excess fuel went into the return line.
Also, the carburated rabbits do have that pump, I have a '84 1.7L w/ that settup. My parts rabbit is a 1.6cis gasser and it's got a "box" bolted on the block over the lobe hole w/ some wires plugged into it.