VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: pimpjoe24 on February 08, 2008, 09:03:15 pm
-
81 rabbit diesel has been sitting for six years but it only has 106,600 miles on it ,has some issues. The headlights do not work but the highbeams do. It started right up after I read some of the helpful input on this site before I joined up, but the motor dies and I have to prime the engine with an outboard primer I put in the fuel line,plugged tank/lines?
-
change the fuel filter asap! diesel fuel can break down over time. that should help a bit. the in tank screen could possibly be clogged up a bit too...
-
I put a new filter on it and I am still getting the same effect.start right up idle great and then the engine starts to die and I have to pump my inline bulb and it runs like a champ again. Those cars have an in tank screen?I opened up the hatch under the rear seat and the only thing that came up was the sending unit.
-
where is a good site to find repair manuals for an 81 rabbit anyway. I can work on gasers but diesels are a whole new language.
-
a list of probs with the 81 rabbit: #1 temp gauge not working #2 alt light is dim then get bright and them battery dies #3 rad fan wont turn on #4 I have to pump an inline outboard primer to keep it running I think I know how to trouble shoot that #5 when it is running and I give it some throttle the RPM's are very high and I have to shut off the key and then restart the engine for it to go back to normal. Oh yaeh the car sat un started for six years but it only has a little over 106,000 miles so I think it is worth putting some money into.
-
where is a good site to find repair manuals for an 81 rabbit anyway. I can work on gasers but diesels are a whole new language.
Bentley (http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=vrd4) is the one you want
-
hummmmmmmmmmmmmm..................... build yourself a remote start system mounted in the engine bay.
Will keep you from having to duck back into car to restart it, or kill it.
A switch to feed power down to the starter solonoid will do, start car from inside, restart from engine bay. A second switch in line to fuel stop valve will allow you to shut it down.
Have you run automatic tranny fluid thru you IP yet? In case the old diesel has gummed up the vanes and they are not working correctly?
Checked to make sure the return lines are clear? Put 5 psi air preasure on the fuel tank and see if you get diesel out at 1) filter feed; 2) IP inlet (after filter); 3) Thru the IP; 4) At each injector; 5) At each retun line ?
Checked to see that there is no damage to the fuel lines and that there is no air leaks in them?
Headlights might be 1) Fuse; 2) Light switch. You know they only work
with the key on, yes?
#5 sounds like "runaway" . I have posted some ways to deal with that ,ie a kill switch in line with the fuel stop valve.
Alt light could be anything from loose belt to cluster messed up to new alt time.
The search function here sucks.... Use the aurthor search, more or less better results, of course some have a few thousand posts................ :roll:
Is your primer pump before or after the IP?
Keep us posted, we like this kind of .........fun! :twisted:
-
when I pump the primer bulb (it is between the filter and the IP) it holds pressure and the engine will run for at least a couple of minutes and I can usually hear when the motor is starting to die and it gives me time to pump the primer again. I actually filled up the IP with ATF on its first start after sitting I think I should fill up the filter with it also to make sure I get it really good. also i didnt drain the fuel tank :oops: someone I know told me that diesel fuel doesnt get that bad over time and that it would be fine if there were still some old in there. I will try some of the suggestions you have listed with the air to help me see where the problem lies.
-
So the engine is running on the pressure built up from the primer, not the IP itself?
Be carfull not to excead 5 psi MAX! If you do, tank and or line joints will leak!
Once you have 5psi (convert a fuel cap for air fitting and remove the vent section) you can check for fuel leaks in the lines....Remember to remove the return line and place it in a catch can, otherwise, the system will be at equilibrium, and there will be no flow. Of course plug the other end of the return line, so as to keep preasure in the tank.
To check the IP, feed it from a seperate fuel source, ie: a fuel can, and see if you can get it to run that way.
It really souds like your IP is not functioning properly for some reason, check on burn_you_money posts, he has a few post on flushing the IP.
Maybe pump ATF directy into the IP and see if it will run and clean its self out?
Lots of info here if you can find it! :twisted:
-
I got out and did some testing today and: I am getting flow through all of my lines but I replaced the return line with some clear fuel line and there are tons of tiny bubble flowing through it! Then it will start to run clear then tons of tiny bubbles again.the IP is loosing prime. I have it sitting right now, full of ATF. I seemes like the ATF is starting to help the IP work properly.I dont see any wetness around anything that would cause air to be fouling up the IP. It sat for so long who knows? Can I use anyhting like wd-40 or some kind of spray lube to free it up inside or would a more gradual approach like ATF be better.
-
I got out and did some testing today and: I am getting flow through all of my lines but I replaced the return line with some clear fuel line and there are tons of tiny bubble flowing through it! Then it will start to run clear then tons of tiny bubbles again.the IP is loosing prime. I have it sitting right now, full of ATF. I seemes like the ATF is starting to help the IP work properly.I dont see any wetness around anything that would cause air to be fouling up the IP. It sat for so long who knows? Can I use anyhting like wd-40 or some kind of spray lube to free it up inside or would a more gradual approach like ATF be better.
-
wd40 likes to eat seals... for a quick fix you could try lubro moly diesel purge...
-
where do you find it in canada?
-
oh yeah i also drained the fuel tank and added some fresh stuff. :D
-
Bubbles in return line(after IP to tank) not as big a problem as bubbles in feed line. Still not good.
Slow and easy is best on IP's.
If you can, use clear fuel line betwween filter and IP. If you have bubbles, you have a leak somewhere.
Not so dumb thing, when you replaced the filter, did the old gasket come off too? Would not be the first time one ended up with two gaskets there. I have done it once or twice myself.
How do you know if the temp gauge works or not if it does not run for more than a few minutes? Or are you out there pumping like crazy?
On a lot of these vehicals, you have to get the RPM's above 2k to get the Alt to kick in. There are a LOT of posts on that one!
Have you tried cracking the hard lines at the injectors while it is running th bleed out any air?
Good luck and lots of fun!
-
no bubbles in lime frome filter to IP just after. I have not cracked the injector lines while it is running,I will try that next. I think I will just put in an aftermarket temp gauge. when the motor gets a little weak I only have to pump the primer like two or three time to get it running good again. Yeah there is the little one and the one attached to the filter I got them both off. someone recomended diesel purge I think I might try that and see if ti helps a little better.
-
well some good news! the rabbit RUNS!!! :D I got it to run on its own for about 15 minutes with no problems. got the headlights to work (kind of the headlight switch is shot but the rad fan works everything else electical work accept for the temp gauge, but hey I am very happy,but I only seem to be having one problem. when it is running the engine seems to be losing its prime? when it is running and starts to run weak, I will be in the car and give it some throttle (floored) and it will be barely be running then it will die and I will restart it and it will run perfect,repeat,repeat. Then as a test I shut it down and held down the primer bulb I put inbetween the IP and the filter and It will be nice and hard and I will put alot of preesure on it and in about 20 seconds it will go flat. will a bad gas cap be the cause? I replaced all the line with a little smaller line so that I will avoid air leaks,repaced the soft line from the tank to the hard line that goes up to the filter,the line from the filter to the IP and the return line. Is their a soft line from from the end of the retun line that hooks it to the fuel tank? I dont see any leaking from anything under the hood. Any help would be awesome :) This site rules!
-
Without using the primer, will the car start and run?
If not, sounds like the IP still has problems.
Groun out one of the sensor leades at the head,(One will be for the glow plugs, one for the temp gauge)The one for the temp gauge will peg the gauge, showing thet it does work once you get the engine warm.
More funns for ;you!
-
it is weird, the engine will start on its own then run for as long as I want it to. Then when I get in the car and give it throttle it bogs down and almost dies. then I shut the ignition off and immediately restart it, it runs perfect! I almost think that there is something in the tank that floats to the outlet on the fuel tank. I definately think that the IP was gummed up but it is getting better. I went and bought some stuff called diesel clean and cetain boost, it seemes to be working pretty good. I hope to get it on the road this weekend and drive it a little bit. So ground out the temp sensor on the water outlet on the head. There is two of them on opposite side of each other, I will try them both. Thanks for the info.
-
Get this, I got a 16 ounce water bottle filled it with diesel hooked a new line up to the IP and hello it ran perfect! :D I then pulled some more fuel from the tank with the primer and It pumped it really good so I decided to remove the primer bulb completely and repaced it with a single hose and I drove it for three miles with no problem, accept for when I run up the RPM's before switching gears the idle stays high and I have to ether put it in gear or turn the key on/off for the idle to drop. Is the IP still a little gummed up?
-
shouldn't it be "wascally"
-
Well hell(o) and enjoyment for you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad to hear that it runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Search under my sig for runaway stuff...Basicly I put in a relay to "kill" the power to the fuel *** off valve while I shifted. Put the button that controles the relay on the shifter. When yo kick the clutch in, hit the button, momentatily killing the fuel to the motor.
Otherwise you have your clasic case of runaway. You can search for that..............what the heck, a few thousand posts..........
Once again CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We like to hear the we done some good.
w