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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: gratefuljoe on January 13, 2008, 05:16:22 pm
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Dearest All,
Yesterday, the ever-gracious Vince spent the time with me to install 1 fresh-out-of-the-oven Giles pump. The operation was 100% smooth and we had the new pump in, new lifters installed and a timing belt replaced within 4.5 hours.
The Pump: Do what ever you have to in order to get your hands on one. I'm going to write another thread on the real-world experiences of the famed Giles pump, but suffice to say: It Kicks A$$. I have just experienced driveability in my 91 golf 1.6 for the very first time.
HOWEVER: My celebratory full-throttle shenanigans have been halted do to a very sneaky fuel leak that I'm starting to worry about more and more...
The leak is NOT coming from: the pump, the lines, the injectors, the returns, the lines from the pump, or, in fact, anywhere around the pump. It's coming from lower than that and covering the bottom front of the motor and dripping down. There's 1 drop that drips every 5 seconds or so. AND, when I look at the gasket between the top end of the motor and the bottom end, I can see a small bubbling at the base of one of the injector casts.
Where in the world could a fuel leak be coming from all the way down there?
Please help so I can get back to ripping and reporting.
Thanks,
gratefuljoe
1991 Golf 1.6 NA
Edmonton, AB
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Yes I can attest to the butt-dyno impact of a Giles pump... never heard a diesel rev that high or an N/A pull that well.
Joey we saw a lotta leaks under that engine: oil, coolant, old diesel from the previous leaky pump.
My opinion: gotta start with a clean slate to track those suckers down. Canadian Tire sells a good citrus-based biodegradable engine cleaner.... grab a can, head to a coin car wash, soak the top and bottom of the engine in cleaner, then hit it with the high-pressure hose (staying away from the alternator).
With a clean running engine and a flashlight you should be able track down some specifics. Fuel pretty much has to be coming from the parts you've mentioned.
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Joe, if you have a leak / bubbling coming from around the injectors, Giles suggests that you have a look at the heat shields / the area where the heat shield contacts the head seat. Did you replace the heat shields when you reinstalled these injectors? If not, it's possible that this is the problem, and that the bubbling you're seeing is a compression leak coming up around the injectors due to an imperfect seal. (That's all from Giles. 8) )
As Vince said, best bet is to get the engine cleaned up and go from there - but if you haven't checked on these items, you may want to have a look at them before going to any elaborate cleaning steps.
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If you are working on the injection system or the internals of the engine (heatshields) you should have the engine clean anyways to avoid potential problems. Plus it's more fun to work on
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If you are working on the injection system or the internals of the engine (heatshields) you should have the engine clean anyways to avoid potential problems. Plus it's more fun to work on
Awe, what's a little dirt in a cylinder? Oh, never mind! :evil:
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Hey guys,
We didn't touch the heat shields or the injectors. That, and Vince is meticulous, so everything we worked on was quite clean.
Vince has recommended that I replace the cloth-covered rubber lines to ensure that they're not the culprit. I'll do that and then report back.
Another symptom - she's losing her prime pretty much every time I turn her off now. I takes about 10 seconds of cranking to get the fuel back to the motor, then she starts right up.
-gratefuljoe
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If you are working on the injection system or the internals of the engine (heatshields) you should have the engine clean anyways to avoid potential problems. Plus it's more fun to work on
You raise a very good point. I guess I should have said "Before giving the engine a complete shampoo and show-level shine, here's stuff you could check" :wink:
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The cloth covered lines are an excellent place to start with. They get brittle and just bumping them with a wrench can cause them to leak, either under vacuum or pressure
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The cloth covered lines are an excellent place to start with. They get brittle and just bumping them with a wrench can cause them to leak, either under vacuum or pressure
yea i hate the cloth covered lines... mine are around a year old and they seem to be leaking again... not cool! any alternatives?
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The cloth covered lines are an excellent place to start with. They get brittle and just bumping them with a wrench can cause them to leak, either under vacuum or pressure
yea i hate the cloth covered lines... mine are around a year old and they seem to be leaking again... not cool! any alternatives?
yes i been using clear vynal tubing 1/4o.d. x 1/8i.d. i use it till it gets dark or when i service something! and i replace it! very cheap pennys a foot i also use the larger size for my fuel lines! makes it easy to detect air leaks in the system as well?
thanks Duane
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vinyl you say... i'll give it a go! do you need to use any clamps on the lines or do they hold enough???
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I haven't used any clamps on the little lines at all! but if you can find some small crimp clamps that will insure a tight seal! the bigger tubing i've had to use a clamp sometimes? but i been happy with how it looks and performs and from 10 to 25 cents a foot at any hardware store i can't complain?
buy a little and try it?tell me what you think?
thanks Duane
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The cloth covered lines are an excellent place to start with. They get brittle and just bumping them with a wrench can cause them to leak, either under vacuum or pressure
yea i hate the cloth covered lines... mine are around a year old and they seem to be leaking again... not cool! any alternatives?
yes i been using clear vynal tubing 1/4o.d. x 1/8i.d. i use it till it gets dark or when i service something! and i replace it! very cheap pennys a foot i also use the larger size for my fuel lines! makes it easy to detect air leaks in the system as well?
thanks Duane
I think he means nylon. If not it's a better alternative than vinyl and I think it has a higher melting point. It's cheap so you can replace all your lines for a dollar or so.
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best thing i found, 1/4 inch synflex air line, no clamps required, using it for 2 years, no leaks, no brittle lines.
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I'd warn against vinyl...it may be cheap but its not durable and will soften and deform with heat. Ultimately, viton is what you want as its resistant to biodiesel and has a high temp rating but it is expensive and hard to find.
You can get it here
http://www.greaseworks.org/store/index.php?cPath=27_43_45
If you want something clear and cheaper, its polyurethane you want. It is much more durable and has a higher temp rating than vinyl.
Edit: Im sure nylon would work great too
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advantages #2 and 3 of an electric lift pump: no drainback, and leaks are easy to spot!
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I have been using a chartruse/clear fuel tubing for chain saws and small motors it fits tihgt and it is in expensive. Any lawnmower repair shop has it.