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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: giulianot on January 11, 2008, 06:25:23 am
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when reinstalling injectors on an aaz head is there a specific torque spec or do you just tighten till all the return lines are in line?
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1/2 impact gun and rattle the hell outta them!!!! :D
That's a joke BTW, dont want anyone thinking I was serious there :roll:
Andrew's advice is spot on.
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thankyou will torque to 52 ft-lbs :D
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Torqueing to 52 ft/lbs scares the heck out of me, and I'm fearless. So thats how scarry it is.
I lube the hole, and Injector with copper antisieze, then torque to 30 ft/lbs.
The 52 ft/lbs spec is probably a 'dry' torque. I back it off quite a bit due to the liberal use of copper antisieze, but haven't had any issues yet, like busted injector bosses, or leaking injectors, stuck injectors, or stuck heat shields.
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Torqueing to 52 ft/lbs scares the heck out of me, and I'm fearless. So thats how scarry it is.
I lube the hole, and Injector with copper antisieze, then torque to 30 ft/lbs.
The 52 ft/lbs spec is probably a 'dry' torque. I back it off quite a bit due to the liberal use of copper antisieze, but haven't had any issues yet, like busted injector bosses, or leaking injectors, stuck injectors, or stuck heat shields.
but who wouldn't use some sort of anti-seize on the injector threads??? seems foolish...painfully remove gunked up injectors, and re-insert them to get gunked up and hard to remove later down the road... i LOVE the tdi design!!!! 8) way easier to remove the injectors.
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My point exactly with respect to the OEM torque spec.
I suspect the antisieze drastically alters the thread friction during torqueing.
Taking 20 lbs off is my 'fly by the seat of my pants' guess on how much to reduce the torque.
I've done it for years with only positice results.
I think its important to use a torque wrench as well, and to specifically grind the heck out of a socket and extension to fit behind the LDA.
The injector hole behind the LDA is the one I always see with a stuck heat shield on other folk's engines. That one is always tough to get to with standard tools, And I think tightening by 'feel' never gets it fully steated. This results in leakage, wich gets a big gob of carbon built up around the injector tip and heat shield.
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I don't use antisieze so I torque to spec (52)
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When I was changing my head I had to swap the injectors over to the new head. I had a 18inch breaker bar and a friend to hold the head down (it was off the engine) and I could barely get one of the injectors loose and the I just turned it 'till it came out, no back and forth or WD-40. I don't think it cracked the head, but I don't care either. Then I put 'em in the new head dry and torqued on 'em whatever way was handiest, no problems yet.
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I used anti-seize paste and torqued them to 50lb. No problem at all.
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yeah, well the only reason I didn't push towards the head is 'cause I didn't know it was better :oops: definitly good advice though.
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also work it in and out! i still busted one of my bosses on my head!
the antisieze clunks up and binds and will break a boss!
important to clean all old antisieze out before reinstalling! i think thats where i made the mistake when i broke my boss?
thanks Duane
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The copper antisieze doesn't wad up like the silver stuff does under heat.
I think thats why they copper coat the exhaust stud nuts.
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The copper antisieze doesn't wad up like the silver stuff does under heat.
I think thats why they copper coat the exhaust stud nuts.
yea i noticed that too! all i use is the copper now!
i have a couple can of silver that are dried up but the copper don't that bad?
Duane