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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Han Solo on December 31, 2007, 01:15:50 am
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hello everyone,
i want to start off by saying im new to the whole engine modification and tuning arena. this project is the first engine i have ever done work on, and ive spent alot of time reading up on the topic.
especially here there is alot of good information that has helped me learn alot about making diesel power. there is a wealth of knowledge here in this forum and i hope i can take some of that knowledge and apply it to my own project and know even more when the engine is all said and done.
however sifting through all the information and topics on the various setups and opinions on how to make power and how to keep driveability ive gotten too many ideas swirling around in my head. so im still unsure of just what needs to be done to achieve 200hp while staying dd-able. or more specifically the simplest way to go about doing it. I currently have a 1.6na and my plans are:
1) get oil squirter's machined into the block for cooling
2) get a aaz head for better airflow
3) get a turbo setup then turn up the boost and use a small water cooled intercooler to prevent lag while still cooling the air
4) get a aaz fuel pump
5) get 1.6td pistons so i dont "karate chop" of the squirter's
6) lighten and balance the crank (dont knife edges because it increases vibration?)
7) lighten the flywheel
8) get the PP cam if the site ever gets finished :P
9) port and polish intake and exhaust
10) run a 3" exhaust
11) ceramic coat exhaust and specific engine components
12) use a windage tray to prevent oil splash around crankshaft
13) front mount setrab oil cooler from a volvo to help cooling
questions:
1) i know i need more oil pressure for the squirter's, so do i just get a td oil pump?
2) how long does it generally take Giles to tune a pump? and how do i go about contacting him?
3) is a twin turbo setup overkill? other than machining intake and exhaust parts, how hard is it to run?
4) when balancing the crank what all is involved? crank, crank gear, and flywheel? or just crank and gear?
5) would the 1.6td pistons be up for the task of that range of power and boost or would i need the alh forged items?
6) im sure im over looking something, but would that setup get me to my goal (or near it) while still being drivable?
7) any other good ideas or tips?
my main goal is to be able to get up hills at highway speeds and pass people on the highway, and just have some fun flying with the diesel
thanks for the help in advance,
-Jay
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Jay, this is an excellent topic. I hope other will chime in here. Your goal is a good one, although I am not sure how feasable it is. I can answer a few of your questions and negate one of your speculations.
speculation #3.
an air to water intercooler is only acceptable if there is absulotely no room for an air to air unit. air to water intercoolers are only more effective than air to air when applied in a drag race scenario when ice and such can be added for cooling. Air to air is the way to go if you have room and are not running into a problem with huge charge pipe lengths.
Q #1: TD or hydraulic oil pump will do the trick. For some reason 46mm comes to mind
Q#4: the entire rotating assembly is whats needed for balancing. Crank, rods, entire clutch kit, flywheel, bolts (only so the balancer can attach things), crank pulley(s), pistons, and rods.
Q#5: ALH pistons will not work at all. They are of the TDI variety and will make your engine not run. Look into ceramic coating the stock pistons if you are worried about high temps.
HTH and I hope those that know more will contribute. I shall be watching this thread constantly.
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air to water intercooler has many benefits. firstly you can put an air water intercooler with less piping than an air/air intercooler. (less turbo lag and less awkward bends in piping. if done correctly of course)
plus water can hold 4 times the amount of heat that the same volume of air can hold. that is quite substantial. benefits from that are less heat soak in traffic, and the ability to hold boost for much longer periods while keeping the charge air temperature down. sure ice water will keep the temps down really low, but for a street car that is unnecessary. i think overall the air/water intercooler is superior in theory. the radiator used to cool the liquid can be as large as the cars radiator and be much more efficient than those smaller intercoolers.
now for the drawbacks. it absolutely requires an electrical pump to function; sucks juice from the alternator. if the liquid reaches high enough temperature, it will take much longer to cool down without some sort of fan blowing on the radiator. this requires that the cars fans be run, or an auxiliary fan of some sort. either way it is another draw on the electrical system.
so the air/water system is geared more to the power hungry minded because of its potential for efficiency, and ability to absorb much more heat than a regular air/air intercooler. but because of the necessity for an electrical pump and hoses, it makes it less desireable. i've considered running a system like that myself and using a thermoswitch to control the pump. i would most likely install the thermocouple inside to measure the charge air temperature and control the pump by that. controlling the pump by water temperature would be way too 'laggy' as the water takes a while to heat up. it wouldn't be hard at all to rig something up to a secondary radiator either. just think about it... if your rad can cool down your engine that creates tons of heat, just imagine what it can do to your charge air temps :wink: but you do need a high flow high psi pump. the more psi the better as it will carry the most heat to be dispersed.
i dunno... the more i think about it the more air/water sounds better. its just that damn water pump for reliability... then again the air/air intercooler can be a bit of a drag on the system in traffic though... the intercooler will succum to heat soak and actually increase the charge air temps making the car run worse... but for the most part everyone is launching their cars and accelerating fast with lots of air flowing through the intercooler which makes them work great.
some in-between options include water/meth injection into the charge air stream, and also a water spray kit to spray onto the intercooler. evaporative cooling works excellent since the water absorbs so much heat when it evaporates. but then again you still need a pump! :lol:
RabbitGTDGuy has an air/water setup, but i'm not sure how his is going. i think his radiator is a bit small though :wink: i would probably just pick up one of those newer skinny radiators to conserve space. the fins are sooo fine it must do a great job at getting rid of the heat!
check out his mTDI:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1956&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=105
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I donīt know what do you mean by reliable 200hp. So far 3000km with 2,4bar boost and 220 crank hp with no problems. But Iīm not expecting it to hold for tens of thousands kmīs either :lol:
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what you got mjf? :twisted:
Bert
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Aaz block, 1,6 crank, 1Y pistons, carrillo rods, main girdle, 1,6 mech head, ARP head studs, stock cam & injectors, gt2359v, 3" exhaust and 12mm pump.
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:shock:
Bert
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thanks for the help everyone :D
on the topic of the intercooler, i was thinking, what if i just hooked it into the current water cooling system and upgraded the pump somehow? i could run the water line through the intercooler first then bring it back down into the block.
another idea i just got would be to have the intercooler oil cooled with a fan. i figure that would absorb loads of heat?
ive also seen people using old mustang radiators, anyone have any experience with them? and i was also thinking about using the dual fan setup from newer vw's to help move the air.
im hoping with all those additions to the cooling process i wont have to worry too much about egts
how much boost are you running MJF? and do you have a build thread? its encouraging to see that someone got to my goal, and it sound like it was fairly easy.
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well that idea is toast haha
would a g60 water pump be an upgrade for the system?
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we should section this sucker off
-reliable 100hp
-reliable 150hp
-reliable[?] 200hp
like stages, nahmeen? so people know what to get/do first.
i am also new to the diesel world and would love to get even just 100hp out of my 1991 TD jetta.
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^that would likely help 1st timers out alot, such as myself
i just want to get power between 150 and 200hp, and obviously the more the better. i just dont know how much i need to do to get there, and i dont want to have to go back and redo alot of stuff after i get the motor working.
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my dad has always told me this when we talked about modding his mustang.....
cheap, fast, reliable....you can pick only two
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RabbitGTDGuy has an air/water setup, but i'm not sure how his is going. i think his radiator is a bit small though :wink: i would probably just pick up one of those newer skinny radiators to conserve space. the fins are sooo fine it must do a great job at getting rid of the heat!
check out his mTDI:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1956&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=105
My setup is up and running and working great. I have had no problems as of yet with the size of the radiator that I am using and its size is also very deceiving do to the thickness of the radiator itself. Also, I have a fairly large reserve/res. not to mention the capacity intercooler jacket itself and the lines I've run. During the hot days this summer and after sustained boost runs I've been able to easily feel the intercooler pipes and discern a distinct difference in temperature pre and post intercooler the intake manifold is cool to the touch. I've been amazed at the system actually compared to my previous experiences with air/air intercooling (my previous IDI GTD MK1, Lysholm Stg 4 Corrado and a few others). If you read most major theories on air/water intercooling and doing it properly, the size of the heat exchanger itself is more at the least of importance because of the amount of time that any particular amount of water sees the exchanger itself. The res. size is a more important feature as well as the overall capacity of the system itself.
I plan on refining the system slightly this winter and either adding a filler port to the "keg" I'm using for my res. and may try to find a larger/thinner heat exchanger just to make things "fit" more easily. I'd like to also had an pre/post intake air temp measurement system and possibly control my pump as well by a thermoswitch...if I find a small/thin radiator with a switch bung in it, I may be able to do this via the use of a OEM switch and some resistors to get it to turn on/off as I need it. However, using a series of VR6 auxilary water pumps (the same as a Ford Lightening intercooler pump), I've had no problems. Also, haven't had an draw problems on the electrical system...especially being mTDI, I don't have that many electrical demands. My pump is one that I arm/run all of the time.
I'm very happy with the system and its performance thus far and only look towards refinement!
Joe
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interesting. I have to admit that my only experience with air/water intercoolers is on Vanagons. The first one we did had a fairly small radiator (about 20"x8"x1"). After driving the van on the freeway at a sustained speed of around 75MPH I checked the reservoir temp (1.5gal) and the intercooler. Both were almost hot to the touch. The pump was a VR6 aux water pump.
We decided that was unacceptable so we redesigned the core to about 36x42x2 and that helped a bit. Still had a warm intercooler and warm charge pipes post intecooler.
On my scirocco, I have an air/air unit. After getting off the freeway the post cooler charge pipe is cold to the touch. Same thing with the intake manifold. I have another friend with a 1.8t in his scirocco and after a good freeway run, his intake manifold was ICE cold.
I guess if most of your driving is around town an air/water might be ok. I just prefer to stick with what I have seen and know. Also on the point of water being able to absorb 4 times the amount of heat; although that may be correct, how long does it take to dissipate that heat? I would venture to guess it takes longer to cool off water than it does to cool off aluminum with air blowing through it.
Then there is also the consideration of weight. Water weighs quite a bit more than aluminum. I think I will stick with my 3 psi pressure drop and have a cold intake vs. adding an extra cooling system and having a warm intake.
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interesting. I have to admit that my only experience with air/water intercoolers is on Vanagons. The first one we did had a fairly small radiator (about 20"x8"x1"). After driving the van on the freeway at a sustained speed of around 75MPH I checked the reservoir temp (1.5gal) and the intercooler. Both were almost hot to the touch. The pump was a VR6 aux water pump.
We decided that was unacceptable so we redesigned the core to about 36x42x2 and that helped a bit. Still had a warm intercooler and warm charge pipes post intecooler.
On my scirocco, I have an air/air unit. After getting off the freeway the post cooler charge pipe is cold to the touch. Same thing with the intake manifold. I have another friend with a 1.8t in his scirocco and after a good freeway run, his intake manifold was ICE cold.
I guess if most of your driving is around town an air/water might be ok. I just prefer to stick with what I have seen and know. Also on the point of water being able to absorb 4 times the amount of heat; although that may be correct, how long does it take to dissipate that heat? I would venture to guess it takes longer to cool off water than it does to cool off aluminum with air blowing through it.
Then there is also the consideration of weight. Water weighs quite a bit more than aluminum. I think I will stick with my 3 psi pressure drop and have a cold intake vs. adding an extra cooling system and having a warm intake.
Well, thats quite the slam to any air-water intercooling system right there I guess....according to your opinion anyways. I don't think its the best way to approach that topic but to each his own.
cost wise, air-air is much cheaper...and is ok efficiency wise... air-water...more costly, but more efficient if designed properly.
I can't imagine having effective air-water intercooler, or a good intercooler setup on a vanagon in the first place (i've had one too... and a friend of mine does TDI, m-TDI, AAZ, etc. etc. swaps in vanagons all the time as well as has his own Syncro mTDI ). I can tell you right off the bat that a 1.5 gal res. is half the size you need for an effective system.
I can argue the pros/cons of it all night and there are merits to each respective system out there. I've even whipped out the books too in the past. I can only vouch for my setup and what it has done thus far and the care that I took in putting it together (the air/water unit itself was originally for the Lysholm 'rado but I sold it before I ever installed it). Your reference to warm intake air I hope is in regards to your own system that you had previously had on the vanagon I'm assuming because mine is def. cool... :) That, I'll bring to the table anytime. Part of wanting to upgrade a few items on it...or rather, add on is to provide air temp measurements as they are SIGNIFICANT.
Now...Ice cold...lets talk about that...
I'd love to see a 1.8T intake manifold that is ICE cold to the touch (or any gasser for that matter), especially when heat dissapates back through the manifold when the car is off, at idle or not under load...
I suppose if it was really cool outside, maybe running some sort of misting system? I don't know...but just straight intercooling, I'd like to see ICE cold.
I too am not worried about the very amount of weight that the water in my system contributes to the cars overall weight (5 gal overall...maybe ...especially considering the mk1 body (the heavy beast that it is lol) ... not to mentioned the engine's overall power itself...think there is a tradeoff there...
I'm not drag racing either nor have become a weight weenie with the car. It was built for fun driving (which by the way...most is interstate driving).
Twas a friendly post highlighting extra information in reference to a post linked to my project page.
To each his own...
Happy New Year!!!
Joe
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hey now, I didnt mean to come across as attacking. I just wanted to point out what I have dealt with.
I would also point out that on the vanagon, the total capacity was around 3.5-4 gallons of coolant. The second revision got a 2.25 gallon res tank.
If you were closer, I could certainly arrange a ride and you can feel the intake manifold for yourself on the 1.8t rocco. If you are on Vortex, his username is Hybridvw. His name is Kelly. Really nice guy. And yes, ice cold intake manifold. No misting. Ambient air temp was around 70 degrees. It was on Grants Pass in Oregon around May.
I might also point out that all the air/water systems we have put in Vanagons are built by Bell Intercoolers if that helps you get an idea what we are dealing with. I would love to see cold charge pipes with an air/water but I just havent seen it yet without or the like.
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Wow, sounds great. I'd love to do that...
On another note...part of the reason why I went with the air-water unit was the fact that I had the cooler already to go for the 'rado and never sold it off after building it. Also... with the mTDI project I wanted to do something different and I never liked having to find a huge amount of space on the mk1 for a large front mount air-air unit. My air-water unit allowed me to simply make a clean look to things be relocating the battery, optimizing the size and path of the intake track as well as kept me from cutting big holes, etc. etc. Not to mention...I have a whole "70 something" scene I'd like to obtain in the end and having the keg in the back of the car just makes it all that much more fun.
Not attacking...more contrasting.
Anyways...back to topic and I have to finish preparing the New Years feast of food and choice drinks!
Joe
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And yes, ice cold intake manifold. No misting. Ambient air temp was around 70 degrees.
And I thought I was the cheapskate. Why don't you guys get a non contact thermometer? They're on sale right now for $30 at Harbor Freight. Mine works really well. Then you won't have to argue ice cold vs. kinda cold vs. really cold. I hope I don't come across as rude. This is an interesting thread but I think it lost sight of its original purpose. OTOH, intercoolers are a very important part of making turbo power. On the A/A, is it FMIC or top mount?
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And I thought I was the cheapskate. Why don't you guys get a non contact thermometer? They're on sale right now for $30 at Harbor Freight. Mine works really well. Then you won't have to argue ice cold vs. kinda cold vs. really cold. I hope I don't come across as rude. This is an interesting thread but I think it lost sight of its original purpose. OTOH, intercoolers are a very important part of making turbo power. On the A/A, is it FMIC or top mount?
Might have to do that...sounds like a hell of a deal! And yah...partly my fault, but it did get off topic...
Joe
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My bad too. Sorry for the OT stuff. I actually plan on installing a temp sender on the IC on my rocco. I have put the factory MFA cluster in it but still need to wire the goodies in.
914turboford: all of the air/air speculation/testing (if you can call it that) is on FMIC. If you dont have room for an FMIC then go with the air/water. In my opinion, the SMIC is on par with the air/water setup for the most part.
Ok so lets get back to that 200hp formula.
Oh and have a happy new years all! Be safe out there, lotsa drunks. That reminds me that I need to put my rocco in the yard so it doesnt get smached bya drunk.
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interesting. I have to admit that my only experience with air/water intercoolers is on Vanagons. The first one we did had a fairly small radiator (about 20"x8"x1"). After driving the van on the freeway at a sustained speed of around 75MPH I checked the reservoir temp (1.5gal) and the intercooler. Both were almost hot to the touch. The pump was a VR6 aux water pump.
We decided that was unacceptable so we redesigned the core to about 36x42x2 and that helped a bit. Still had a warm intercooler and warm charge pipes post intecooler.
On my scirocco, I have an air/air unit. After getting off the freeway the post cooler charge pipe is cold to the touch. Same thing with the intake manifold. I have another friend with a 1.8t in his scirocco and after a good freeway run, his intake manifold was ICE cold.
I guess if most of your driving is around town an air/water might be ok. I just prefer to stick with what I have seen and know. Also on the point of water being able to absorb 4 times the amount of heat; although that may be correct, how long does it take to dissipate that heat? I would venture to guess it takes longer to cool off water than it does to cool off aluminum with air blowing through it.
Then there is also the consideration of weight. Water weighs quite a bit more than aluminum. I think I will stick with my 3 psi pressure drop and have a cold intake vs. adding an extra cooling system and having a warm intake.
i'm going to do it and use the newer style car sized radiators and use the thermoswitch from one to control the fan to cool it. I will have cowling to make sure that air flows through the intercooler before the condensor/rad (yep... i want to try and keep a/c if possible :wink:). the size alone of the radiator will really help cool the intake charge temps and the fan will also help keep the temps down in traffic. IMO this setup would be FAR superior to any air/air setup. true that once water is up to temp it does take more to cool it, but the size of the rad will help cool it off.
but enough with theory, i want to get it done already... just need to find the right air/water cooler first. i liked the spearco ones. the ebay ones look good but i'm not sure how efficient they are... one with very fine fins would be excellent.
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We tried to fit the intercooler radiator in with the condenser and the engine radiator, but the intercooler radiator was too huge. We ended up mounting it under the van at an angle where the spare tire goes. It seemed to get plenty of air. I suppose if you use a smaller intercooler radiator or cut the body a bit you could get away with it.
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good point. unfortunately, the guy REALLY wanted his AC so we couldnt mount it anywhere else. This was on the second setup btw. The first setup used a setrab cooler and it was small enough to fit in front of the condenser. that was also the one that got really warm.
it was also a syncro so there was plenty of room for flow. The guides that we put in probably helped a bit too.
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I know I'm out on a limb here, but all this ac talk and mention of an ice cold intake charge has me thinking.. has anyone ever tried to use ac refrigerant and a compressor to make a "refrigerant to air" intercooler, I know the power suck would be massive, and it's probably kind of complicated, but if the gains were great enough...?
Also, at what intake temp do you start to see a diminishing return, at what IAT does it become foolish to strive for a lower IAT yet?
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IIRC Porsche uses the AC to cool the IC.
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Ok so lets get back to that 200hp formula.
yes.
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The idea of the use of AC as a cooling medium has been discussed before...i don't know if on these boards specifically but elsewhere (maybe TDIclub....def. the vortex...).
In the end do you think the power requirements/drag of the A/C system will really provide enough positives to offset the latter?
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that would be interesting...
You first!
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ok guys, we are acting like a bunch of ADHD kids. :D we have gone completely sideways from the OPs direction. I think we have almost dominated one entire page about intercoolers and still havent come up with what the OP wanted.
We all know that a mere intercooler on a TD will not net 200whp. so lets move on towards the other things.
I wish I had more to contribute. Big exhaust (2.5-3") would get you started. small intercooler piping will help too. I hear the best thing is to have the inlet piping for the IC a little bit smaller than the outlet piping. This will help accelerate the charge pressure through the IC.
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My sense of this is that the amount of heat that needs to be removed from the charge air going into the engine is quite significant. Any mechanical refrigeration system is not going to be able to cope with this. The only reason that air to air intercooling works is that it rejects heat to the ambient air. There are no mechanical losses involved since there are no pumps or machinery present. With air to water intercooling there is at least a small pump involved but the heat absorbtion capacity is increased since water is capable of taking in much more heat than air is. With any mechanical refrigeration system there are pumps or compressors which have there own inherent mechanical inefficiencies. Absorbtion refrigeration systems use the density difference in the gasses & liquids to power the refrigeration cycle, so they have few moving parts but are not very powerful for their size. I'm generalizing somewhat but I am doubtful that anyone is going to get a refrigeration powered intercooler working anytime soon. I see the basics as
Air to air, good for continous operation, should be large to be effective, should have exposure to free flow of cool air for best results. Simple.
Air to water good for intermittant operation due to heat accumulation in the cooling medium. easier to fit into the engine compartment since it doesn't have to be as large as air to air. Should be a separate cooling circuit from the engine otherwise it will mostly transfer engine heat back into the charge air. more complex.
Refrigerant to air , other than Drag race style cool cans or ice packed intercoolers. Don't see how it could be done. Way too complex
Anyone else can jump in here with thoughts . Probably should be in it's own thread rather than the 200Hp one. Cheers Dan
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well im pretty sure if i just add a fan to an air2air intercooler, i think that should make me happy and it will still get me to the power goal i need... again there are too many differing opinions to try to decide between, ill just have to try each when the time comes
for now though, the question remains: how do i get to 200 hp?
specifically looking at the internal parts of the engine... because im rebuilding the engine and just want to have a solid base to work with. i mean i dont want to have to go back in and add forged pistons when i find out they cant handle the boost or that i dont even have enough compression to get the motor going. if the other, more accessible items need to be worked on i can address them later, but id like to know about the internals please.
my questions again are simply: is my setup good in the core area? or is there something else i need to look at? and is there anything else i could do? (keep in mind its a DD)
thanks for all the responses and hope everyones new years was full of good times 8)
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do you have a TD engine to start with? If so great! Either way, balance the entire rotating assembly and ceramic coat the pistons. The rods should be able to take 200hp.
you are thinking gasser when you mention forged pistons. AFAIK noone makes forged pistons for the IDI. Oil squirters and ceramic coating should take car of what you need for the bottom end.
Port match the head to the gaskets. This will help flow into the engine and into the turbo.
If you have a hydraulic engine, get an AAZ head. I dont think you will be able to reliably reach 200hp without it. If you cant afford that, then at least get some bigger valves in there. I have even heard of people getting SS valves from another application and cutting them to fit. This mostly applies to the intake valves. Audi 5ktd valves come to mind, but I am not for sure on that.
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thats pretty much what i had in mind, i dont have a 1.6td though. :? i was going to machine in oil squirter's to make up for it.
and i was planing on the 1.9 head just didnt know if it bolts right up or not?
and how would doing that affect the engine, like does the compression change or anything? (this is kinda where ive found it hard to find information, i know its been done, but by people alot more skilled and knowledgeable than myself)
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Well, the AAZ head has slightly lower compression due to the larger precups.
The next task you will have to deal with is the gasket/oil return. There is an extra one between #1 and #2 injector on the AAZ head. This will need to be plugged in order to use that head. The gasket that should be used is the AAZ gasket. but then again, you run into the extra oil return. I currently have the AAZ gasket on my mechanical 1.6 engine. I dont know how long my idea will last so I would like to reserve my trick until I know it will last a while. I currently have about 3k on the idea that I used for the gasket.
The AAZ head will require longer AAZ only head bolts. These are 12mm in diameter. If you have an 11mm block, your options are to drill and tap the block or get a kit from ARP that allows 12mm head with 11mm block.
I personally have an 11mm block but also have some 12mm blocks lying around. I will most likely be building one of the 12mm blocks for the AAZ head. I was going to put the AAZ head on the 1.6 block a few weeks ago until I found out the block in the car had 11mm bolts. And the head is cracked and has been welded on the 1.6. I figure that if I run into a problem with the 1.6 at least I can know what I did wrong and make it right for the build of the AAZ 1.6
machinig the oil squirters is a good idea. I dont know if anyone has had success with this though. still get the pistons ceramic coated. its a good precaution.
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http://www.fastvws.com/acatalog/FASTADDICTION_com_Clutch___Transmission_Parts_9.html
should i get the:
Rapid Performance Sport Clutch Kit
Limited Slip Upgrade Kit
and the Techtonics Deluxe Short Shift Kit
anyone have experience with these types of products? i figure they will be able to take the power im attempting to put down?
and thanks again for all the helpful advice everyone
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wait a minute... you don't have a TD? and you want 200 hp? :shock:
are you trying to kill the engine? hehe... yea you need a huge exhaust, 3"... huge intercooler... EGT gauge (try to keep below 1300 or so) and a really good pump.
why don't you firstly take a look at andy2's thread. compound turbo's. he slightly bent his rods so he went to PD100 rods which were bolt ons (for a 1.9 AAZ)
the 1.9 AAZ head will be good for the power... the lowered CR will help put less stress on the engine and maybe keep the rods from bending, but your cold starting will be pretty rough.
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well like i said... i was going to get oil squirter's machined in would that not do the trick?
and will the compression still be an issue if i lighten all the spinning mass? or how can i get the compression to where it needs to be?
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well you are going to need a turbo for sure if thats what you intend. no way in Hell are you going to get 200hp out of an NA diesel.
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well like i said... i was going to get oil squirter's machined in would that not do the trick?
and will the compression still be an issue if i lighten all the spinning mass? or how can i get the compression to where it needs to be?
like i said... you only need the high compression ratio for cold starting. 200 hp should be for a 'racing' 1.6 diesel engine. if you want it as your daily, i can't see it lasting that long...
so you might need to plug it in to have good starts, but it should go like stink if you build it right.
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200hp should be acheivable (sp?) for a DD if its done right. A turbo is a must and a stock turbo will not work out so well. I think its all in the setup.
I see no reason why a 1.6l TD, fully built can not get to 200hp reliably. By reliably, I mean 60k miles or so with out needing major internal work.