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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Gernster on December 15, 2007, 03:53:32 pm
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on my mk2 golf the temp warning light is constantly flashing and the guage doesnt read.
Can somone tell me where the sender is on the engine so I can test/ replace it? Ive just changed the clocks and it hasnt cured the problem.
There are two plugs on what looks like the thermostat housing but dont know which one is the sender!
Part B
Glow Plug led doesn't light, any ideas where to start looking?
I can hear the relay clicking iun and out and the glow plugs work because the car starts! but would like to know how long to leave the ignition before turning over.
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wud most lightly be 1 of the 2 senders on the plastic pipe that comes out of the front of ur head, they control ur glow plug LED and temp guage, sumtimes just cum unclipped (thermostat is next to ur water pump, wont be that)
gud luck
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how long to leave the ignition before turning over.
around 10-15 seconds should do it.
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Wow. That was some pretty terrible spelling. :roll:
Try checking the level sender on the coolant bottle for the flashing light problem. It sounds like you have a few things going on. Usually if the coolant temp sender for the gauge is shorted to ground, it will make the needle peg out and make the light flash. Its possible that you are low on coolant and thats why the light is flashing.
There are two senders on your engine. It depends on what year you have. If you have metal flanges then you should have either
a. two senders on the coolant flange that goes to the heater core or
b. one sender on that flange and another one that is on the upper radiator hose flange or
c. a four pin plug on the coolant flange that goes to the upper radiator hose.
Check for loose or missing wires. The colors are (IIRC) blue/ white (glow plug relay) and blue/yellow (coolant temp gauge).
HTH
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on my 95 Jetta GL Turbo Diesel the dash board glow plug indicator often does not light up, often when the engins is cold this can be remedied by turning off and on the ignition. When engine is warm often not. :?
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"
Wow. That was some pretty terrible spelling.]" :roll:
it is the written dialect of text messaging. I am still learning it from my teenage daughter.
I will most assuredly persist in remaining an intransigent old fogey because I compose and render complete words and sentences in pursuit of technical exactitude, and forever surrender any present or implied claim to contemporary culture in deference to my aesthetic of eloquence.
Moreover, I predict that by 2017, the youth of generation Z will re-incorporate "lost" words from the old vocabulary, translated into their dialect. Intransigent will become ntraZt, eloquence will be LOcunZ, and eelymosynary = eeymoZy
Howdy oldskool rich :D
phat caddy!
p.s.- I'd check the coolant bottle switch.
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cheers guys, will check all those today.
BTW, I have two plugs on the top radiator hose flange as it goes into the engine.
Could it be that the plugs are on the wrong way round? ill take some pics for you.
I'm lost without my haynes! (UK workshop manuals, but they dont do one for the 1.6 td)
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heres some pics:
Looks like the top sensor is blue/white - brown/white
and side one is yellow/red - brown Is this all ok? ive wd40'd the connections but no difference.
PS its stopped flashing now ive topped it up with coolant!
(http://www.asdf48.dsl.pipex.com/golf/golf54.JPG)
(http://www.asdf48.dsl.pipex.com/golf/golf55.JPG)
(http://www.asdf48.dsl.pipex.com/golf/golf56.JPG)
(http://www.asdf48.dsl.pipex.com/golf/golf57.JPG)[/img]
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LOL @ Vanagoner :D That was highly entertaining!
Gernster, do you have a volt meter? Check resistance between the ground terminal on the battery and the brown wire at each plug. Seeing as how you are having problems with BOTH sensors, its likely that the grounds for them go to the same location and are not making a good connection.
A quick way to test the sensors themselves is to disconnect one, jumper the two terminals and check to see is the gauge pegs out or the glow plug light comes on.
The one with the blue/white should turn on the glow plug light when jumpered with the key in the on position.
The one with the yellow/red wire should peg out the coolant temp gauge and turn on the flashy light.
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cheers mate, good tip, bad earth, why didnt I think of that!
Im a fairly handy mechanic, but am new to VW's!
cheers
Andy
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"Wow. That was some pretty terrible spelling.]" :roll:
it is the written dialect of text messaging. I am still learning it from my teenage daughter.
I will most assuredly persist in remaining an intransigent old fogey because I compose and render complete words and sentences in pursuit of technical exactitude, and forever surrender any present or implied claim to contemporary culture in deference to my aesthetic of eloquence.
Moreover, I predict that by 2017, the youth of generation Z will re-incorporate "lost" words from the old vocabulary, translated into their dialect. Intransigent will become ntraZt, eloquence will be LOcunZ, and eelymosynary = eeymoZy
Howdy oldskool rich :D
phat caddy!
p.s.- I'd check the coolant bottle switch.
:roll: Rich actually is dyslexic
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Dyslexia has nothing to do with choosing to spell (or not spell) the word "you" with one letter ("u").
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cheers mate, good tip, bad earth, why didnt I think of that!
Im a fairly handy mechanic, but am new to VW's!
cheers
Andy
glad to help. I always seem to find it funny that you guys call it earth ;) at least you knew what I meant when I said ground :)
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given the earth & plugs a good wiggle and the temp guage is now working, but still no glow plug led? Even shorted the sensor, maybe the dash is faulty.
Does the circuit have a fuse?
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only fuse is on the firewall ( metal strip)
the relay may be bad also ( no signal to the dash LED)
if you pull both temp sending connectors and turn the ignition ON , the glow plugs and light should stay ON ..... remember to reconnect them after testing.
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The temp sensor on the top is for the dash display and the one on the side is for the glow plugs.
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in that case mine are the wrong way round!
got bigger probs at the moment, exhaust fell off this week!
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FWIW on my GTD the glow plugs are the top sender and temp guage on the side.
If your plugs are working the fuse is fine.
Sounds like its just the LED/dash playing up, or the relay which contols it, as someone said.
If you want to know for certain how long the glowplugs are on for check with a test light or multimeter between bus bar and negative terminal on battery and time how long they have power for. Be careful to make a good single connection with the positive lead as i blew my fuse by touching the bus bar and a bit of a glow plug whilst being careless.
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Hi, not had another look since last week, but I shorted the glow plug switch out and the glow plu LED did not come on, so Im thinking its not the sender.
Illl have another play soon, busy now woth Christmas & whatever.
BTW the GTD back box I bought for the exhaust doesnt fit because the guys who did the engine conversion left the original 8v GTi exhaust on.
The boys at Brickwerks said the same, so ive had to buy a full system, which wont come till next friday! :? oh joy, ah well at least ive finished work for the week!
Should run a bit better as im going from a 42mm 3 box system to a 54mm 2 box set up. If I had pots of cah id go for a custom 2.5" stainless setup, but ive been quoted £350, which is only £50 less than the whole car cost!
(mild steel 2" system has cost me just under £100 with a full fitting kit)
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rather add to this thread than start another, gor the exhaust on, still no glow plug light but have not checked the relay. This it might be a wiring issue as the fuse box does not have a fuse in slot 14 ( glow plugs) just a wire with an inline fuse dissappearing behind the fusebox.
Quick question though, temp sender still playing up so bought a new sender. If i pull the old one out will it empty my coolant all over the place??
oh, and where is the thermostat housing on these?
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loosen rad cap to get rid of any pressure then tighten again ...... then remove wire connector, push down , pull retaining clip out, twist and lift old unit .... (have new one ready ) remove old one and put new one in quickly ( as long as motor is cold , it shouldn't leak alot)
the thermostart housing is under the car on the bottom of the water pump ( just follow the lower rad hose to the elbow ... its under the elbow held in by the 2 bolts )
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Just remember to pull the rubber seal off the old sender before you push the new one in. Mine barely leaked a drop (top glow plug sender) but in my haste to jam it back in the hole i didnt notice the seal and couldnt work out why it wouldnt fit.
Is this sender for the glow plugs? You can check if the old one is working properly by removing the relay and testing between terminal T (bottom left) and ground (85). There should be continuity when the engines cold but once warmed up it should loose continuity. I thought mine was knackered and changed it without checking this first but it made no difference so thought this might save you the bother.
I think the bentley has some tips on testing the glow plug led circuit too. Post if you dont have one and want me to copy it out for you.
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cheers for thats lads, I have a Bentley, so will have a read.
This is the temp sender swap. Have shorted the wiring and the guage pegs out ( have also cleaned up the earth) so think it is the sender.
Glow plug circuit seems to operate fine, car starts no problems, but its just the glow plug led doesnt work!
Im a busy chap and the car has a fair old snag list, so just got to keep plugging away!
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OK,
Had an hour playing with this yesterday (temp sender)
my red coolant warning light is flashing and no temp guage. (light does not start flashing until car gets warm????)
Swapped temp sender and expansion tank. No change.
Tried to earth red/yellow sender wire. guage does not 'peg out'
looking at the wiring diagrams it looks like the temp sender guage and low level coolant light run through a control relay ( 18 ) so think thats next on the list to change.
Any thoughts chaps?
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changed the relay but no change. Moght not be the right one, although it was in position 4 in the fuse box the pin numbers corresponed to low speed radiator fan control ( using the Bentley wiring diagrams)
Going to invest in a multimeter and delve into the fuse box this weekend.......
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Good luck. I had a similar problem with my temp light, but it turned out to be the sensor on the expansion tank (which was filthy inside due to a duff oil cooler). However, if you've changed, that, I'm at a loss I'm afraid.
On a related topic, do you know how easy the thermostat housing is to extract the thermostat from? Mine needs changing as it's not getting up to temp properly.
Cheers,
Tom
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in order to make the glow plug light come on simply disconnect the sender, do not jump the conenctor. An open circuit signals the relay to activate, close tells the GP relay that the coolant is up to temperature.
A flashing temp sender light is usually low coolant. Did you swap with a known good sender or just a JY one?
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swapped the expansion tank - light flashes
fitted brand new temp sender - light flashes
disconnected both senders - light flashes
tried shorting both sender connections - light flashes ( and the temp gauage doesnt 'peg out')
I thought I swapped the low coolant relay, but now im not so sure it was the right one. As I said, im going to delve behind the fuse box at the weekend and see what is going on,
As for the glow plugs, looking at the wiring diagrams im going to pull the relay and then earth pin L with the igintion on. Thsi should complete the circuit and test if the actual LED is working!
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ok, so now im confused:
Glow plugs: tried earthing pin L with the ignition on, no light, only thing it can be now is the led has blown as it shares its power with a number of other device sthat all work. Will get another this week and try that
On the tmepo sender side, heres the update:
When the car is cold (started first thing in the morning) the light stays out, and I can earth the temp sender out and the guage goes off the scale and the light starts flashing (overtemp) sp everything seems to be ok, excepet the temp guage doesnt move ( however, the car is cold)
Then (with the temp sender disconected) the car is left running for about 5-10 mins and the light starts flashing. The low coolant level is not to blame I dont think, Ive swapped the expansion tank and tried the connector disconnencted/ shorted/ eathed makes no difference. so where i s it getting its trigger to go overtemp?? all it can be is a component is overheating/ failing?????
Also once the light is flashing the temp guage stops working and doesnt move when I earth it ( so the guage has lost its earth/ power??)
Not sure which relay is the low coolant level one as my car has the wiring loom from a 1989 golf GL diesel ( so I was told),but the car was an 8v gti but now has a 16 TD. However, ive pulled them all and none of them stop the light flashing? can anyone help me to identify? I get conficting information from different wiring diagrams
None of the wiring diagrams I have match the wiring colours for the coolant circuit ( I have haynes, bentley and the russian site one) so am struggling to fault find the wiring up to the clocks.
CAN ANY ONE TELL ME WHATS GOING ON??? The last thing Im thinking of is its a problem in my clocks, but what? voltage stabiliser? rev counter & fuel guage both feed off the same 10v feed according to the wiring diagrams and they work fine?
Any help would be appreciated as im pulling my hair out here ands am pissed off with driving around with no temp guage and a flashing light!
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I had a some similar wierd problems with my car (temp light flashing, gauge moving up and down strangely, glow plugs playing up, clocks lights switching off when headlights were switched on) and it turned out to be a rip in the circuit board next to the voltage stabiliser.
Cant say for certain if this is the case for yourself, but if the car has always had this problem then it might be worth checking the clocks arent damaged. The fact that things change when the car reaches temperature suggests that some circuits are altering as a result of an input from one of the senders.
If you are anywhere near coventry you are welcome to come and pull the temp senders and clocks out of mine and put them in yours if it would help to narrow down potential faulty components.
The temp circuit happens to be one of the more reliable parts on my car. I just wish the same could be said for the head gasket which blew last week on the day i was due to go on holiday!
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well, I bought the clocks just after I bought the car, because the car still had petrol gti clocks in it so no rev counter or gp light. The guy I bought em off got them from ebay for a project he never finished ( Simon at Brickwerks) so they clocks could have always been faulty, as they never worked right in my car.
Ive found some more clocks from a bloke on another forum, so they should be here any day now, and ive pulled the relay/ relay plug and wiring from a scrap gti for the low coolant circuit ( it is separate from the rest of the fuse box on petrol GTis)
so lets hope with a completley rewired system and new clocks I will eradicate the problem!!!