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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: rabbitman on November 27, 2007, 03:02:19 pm
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I put a new water pump on and for some reason the impeller is different on the new one. It's not cast and it's not as high like the clearance will be way to much inside. I put it on anyways but haven't tested it. Anybody know whats up?
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Is it the stamped metal style? I had to replace the water pump on my gasser a while ago. I'm now running a stamped one and it works just fine. It's an aftermarket unit so I'm assuming it's just a different design to cut manufacturing costs. Only time will tell how it stands up to use.
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yeah, it's a stamped one, I thought the impeller was supposed to be a close fit but I guess not.
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So I put my new water pump on and I doesn't pump! It has to much clearance at the impeller.
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I hope the one I just bought isn't like that :evil:
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So I put my new water pump on and I doesn't pump! It has to much clearance at the impeller.
did you bleed out all the air? that totally sucks man... especially since it's not just a simple little job (assuming you have a/c etc...)
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No, I don't have AC, but I'm still really sick of working on this. I took the water pump off twice because it leaked, the first time I already had the belt on. only I don't know about bleeding the air. I've drained out the coolant a few times and when I fill it up and run it there's little spurts of air out the hose that goes into the top of the coolant tank and then it's good to go, this time not even a drop came out :evil: I'm gonna run it till it's warm and see if it desides to pump or not. If it won't I'll take the whole pump off so I can leave the t-belt alone.
A little hint,
Going by my pump it has to be a cast impeller, not a stupid stamped one. Look up www.autopartswarehouse.com and look at the rabbit water pumps, Geba makes a cast one, I have a GMB one. They have 7 brands and Geba looked like the only good one. Maybe the pump body has to be made for either a cast or a stamped one.
Does dynamite remove water pumps? :cry: thanks
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Hi, Well I guess I just didn't rev it enough 'cause I revved it and the water started pumping, the heater is still a joke though. I think it's pumping slower than normal but I'll see over the next few day. thanks!
PS. I would still suggest using a cast impeller even though the stamped one does work.
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the impeller with a flat base reduces cavitation - while a fan open type one does not do such a good job. Get any pump with a flat based impeller - which is likely it will casted not stamped
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I've used this Stamped Steel Impeller Pump on many occasions and have never had a problem.
I asked Jack at on the other forum and he said it works fine and maybe even pumps a little better.
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hi, the problem now is that my rabbit runs hotter than it used to but the heater is colder. So that makes me think the water pump isn't pumping enough. There is still a stream of water shooting into the coolant tank so it is pumping some. thanks
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or the waterpump is pumping so well it pumped all sorts of crap into your heatercore and possibly your rad as well. Did you do a reverse flush?
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no, I never did any kind of flush. I just got done changing the heater core and I still have to test it out. It's -10F now so that'll be a good test.
The other thing is that my radiator was new a year ago and so was the heater core so there probably wasn't to much gunk in the system. Oh well, I'll know tonight. thanks!
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you should probably do a heater flush. go buy that prestone super flush stuff from walmart (like $4-5 bucks??) and flush that crap out good. run it for about 20-30 mins and then drain.. you should see brown fluid coming out if you haven't done it in a long long time.
after i flushed mine & new t-stat, my heater works so damn good. i put all domestic cars to shame! 8) sauna anyone??? :lol: i used to think that i would need cardboard in front of the rad to create any sort of heat... but i was wrong. it's all to do with cooling system & t-stat.
did you use distilled water? distilled water is the 'wettest' water (unless you use something like redline water wetter which increases the wetness) which will increase efficiency and heater output.
did you fill the rad with coolant or just the bottle? fill it as it is running, and make sure it gets up to temperature with the coolant cap off for around a minute. use a thermometer if you need to. if you do this, it should bleed all air out of the system.
first time i filled mine after the flush i only filled the bottle, then i had some serious air locks... overheating issues etc. opened the bottle and let her run for a bit after she got up to temp. no more issues there... but then i had put in a t-stat that opened at around 95-98C so... yea overheat city in the summer :lol:
good luck fixin the problem
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Do not drain the coolant while the engine is hot. Also don't add cold coolant to a hot engine. You'll warp or crack stuff pretty easily.
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I replaced one just a bit ago with a cast impeller and it was kinda the same, as in it didn't protrude into the housing as far as the one I removed.
Seems to cool just fine but I was worried at first. It cant be as efficient as the one I removed. Bad part was the one I removed was fine but I was doing a timing belt and always replace the WP when doing the TB.
I have a spare water pump in my shed (new). Ya never know when you may need one. It's a cast one as well. I think it is a GMB.
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well my water pump is GMB but it's stamped, maybe they "upgraded" since I got mine a year and a half ago. :?
Well I never thought of that the hoses and block could have plenty of junk in 'em, and the nearest walmart is 100 miles away.
I used tap water.
Your supposed to wait 'till the engine cools to drain it ain't you? My bentley says it could warp the block.
I have a 180F t-stat which is 82.222222 Celsius, kinda cold I think.
Last winter I put in a 195F/90.5C t-stat in and the temp needle was at the bottom of the red. I couldn't stand lookin' at the gauge so I put the cold one back in. So now do I have a faulty gauge? Thanks for all the help, I'll do a flush as soon as I can.
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Well you can get a cheep o gauge for kicks to seeif your OE gauge is off.
I have one I keep just for this reason. hook it up and leave it under the hook, go for a drive stop and take a look.
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Well I put a secondary water pump from a passat in the hose that goes from the head to the heater core. I figured this would help rule out my theory that the water is flowing to slow through the heater core. :roll: . I have it on a manual switch so I'll have a dead battery all the time. :( . It's kind of a neat pump, the impeller is driven by a little motor via a magnet so the impeller can stall (like if I turn the heat off w/o turning the pump off) but the motor can still spin. :shock: I'll post my learnings after I test it out. nathan
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Im sort of in the same boat. Noticed a puddle of antifreeze under my '80 Rabbit a couple of weeks ago. It was coming from the weep hole on the WP... If I knew then what I know now, I would have put the car in the paper for $500!
When I bought my first diesel car back in August, I thought the A/C was awesome. In fact the A/C was colder in my 27 year old car than it was in my 5 year old truck! Course, now im cursing the A/C to high heaven. I know VW makes some awesome cars, but really,,, you would have thought the engineers would have made something like a WP a little more accessible.
Anyway, I was finally able to take the pump off tonight, but I broke half of the bolts off in the process. Anybody know if you can heat the housing (its aluminum right?) side of the WP to try and remove those bolts while its still in the car? Im thinking they're really close to critical components like the IP and a seal for the intermeadiate shaft, so maybe not a god idea...
I think in the end I'm going to remove the IP to get to those bolts underneath. If I had it all over to do again, I think I would have gotten a quote from VW or some other mechanic to do it. Not worth the frustration...
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you can use those u shaped box/open wrenches - usually german made to access the bolts below the IP
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Anybody know a good place to get the pump and HOUSING?
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http://www.vw-parts-direct.com
Get one with a cast impeller, you can tell by the pic unless you want to get the whole thing. good luck.
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FWIW I can get the pump and housing, 037 121 010C, OEM GEBA or GRAF for $70 shipped....PM if interested :).
-BB
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ok, the little secondary pump is installed in the coolant hose that goes to the heater core. It makes a big difference in how much heat comes out, turn it on, heat, turn it off, less heat. So the water pump isn't pumping hard enough. It's still not good enough so I'm putting in a headliner made of blue campers pad and cloth to make it look good, and hopefully keep some heat in. :)
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ok, the little secondary pump is installed in the coolant hose that goes to the heater core. It makes a big difference in how much heat comes out, turn it on, heat, turn it off, less heat. So the water pump isn't pumping hard enough. It's still not good enough so I'm putting in a headliner made of blue campers pad and cloth to make it look good, and hopefully keep some heat in. :)
how cold are we talking here? -15C should be absolutely fine with these cars. you either have a restriction in the system or need a proper thermostat. and if you didn't already know; only use distilled water in the cooling system.
i wonder why the water pump is acting the way it is... it almost sounds as if you didn't install the thermostat... although that would mean as little as no heat if cold enough.
-40C would be time to put cardboard in front of the rad... up in timmins while driving in -40C weather, our car died when i was a kid... turns out the distributor shaft snapped (some plastic piece shattered from getting too cold)
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Also if you didn't know, don't drink that distilled water, it's gross.
I didn't need a piece of cardboard infront of my 92 TD at -40. I never had the heat cranked on that thing. I was running the hottest thermostat (92??)
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Also if you didn't know, don't drink that distilled water, it's gross.
I didn't need a piece of cardboard infront of my 92 TD at -40. I never had the heat cranked on that thing. I was running the hottest thermostat (92??)
no cheap distributors to crack... i remember having a super hot thermostat. heat cranked and the gauge still crept up! :shock:
distilled water is good for you. just imagine all those little stones in your kidneys from all the mineral intake from coffee & soda pop.
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I wouldn't drink distilled water (especially not a primary source of hydration). Our body needs lots of minerals to properly function and some of us wouldn't get that unless we drank good ol ground water.
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I just mean it tastes vile. I had to spit it out. They put some bittering agent in it or something.
I was using my friends garage and it was 3am and I didn't want to go inside and risk waking anyone up so I figured I'd drink some. Worst idea EVER.
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well you shouldn't drink distilled water all the time, but it is good at 'flushing' the body of toxins and mineral deposits.
Water
Water is very important for health. You should at least drink an ounce of water for each kilo (2 pounds roughly). So if you weigh 150 pounds, you should drink 75 ounces of water, which is about 2.5 liters. Please note there is a major difference in water qualities. The best water, according to Reams, is distilled water. The water should have the least amount of minerals (The Belgium Spa mineral water only has 30mg per liter). Besides the zero-mineral content, the extra advantage of distilled water is the high energy. Dr. Beddoe says that water is the "wettest" of all waters.
that is mostly because we get practically all the minerals we need from fruits and vegetables.
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Ok the next weird thing, I went on a hundred mile drive the other day with the radiator mostly covered, outside temp about 0F/-17c and the car was getting hotter than I like so I removed the cardboard and after 30mi and the temp didn't change at all.
Yeah, I got a 185F t-stat.
I'm using tap water, never knew why it said to use distilled.
As for the water pump not pumping good I'm getting a strong jet of coolant at the little hose that goes into the top of the bottle. When I get the time I'll flush the system with prestone flusher.
I had a cousin that drank distilled water and thought it gave her lots of energy, she could run forever. thanks a lot. :)
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Well, I flushed the system and I think the heat is better, I still have to run the secondary water pump but thats not a biggy. Now the water temp doesn't go much past normal except w/ cardboard in front of the rad. I did some experiments and noticed that cardboard is not necessary to get the engine hot :shock: , it's funny how everybody says you need cardboard but I think thats kinda why there's a t-stat :idea: Also, people think diesels don't get as hot as gassers but a diesel rabbit has a bigger radiator than a gas rabbit :!: Hence, good t- stat=no cardboard needed, unless it's really cold out then it might be good to block it just to keep the cold air off of stuff. Thanks for all the help guys :)