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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Apsik on October 30, 2007, 07:36:31 pm
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Hello,
recently this forum was very usefull to me because I was building my TD engine. Now I hope that the battle is over and it will be drivable [surprises free]
When I bought my 2nd MK2 I decided to swap a 1.6D into my 1st MK2, after a year it was not enough and i bought 1.9 AAZ engine ... "good condition" and I've been "fighting" to run it properly for a whole year.
What I've changed already:
Turbo: KKK -> GT14 -> GT20VNT with custome vanes control
Crank shaft: TD -> '97 TDI incl pulleys
Head: compleatly rebuilded (valves etc. incl. some porting)
Pump: 9mm -> 10mm
Injectors: JR fited with 261 nozzles
Intake: hidden with K&N filter
IC: Merc-B. C-Classe (fited in the only avaluable space in the MK2 front bumper) pipes 48mm stainles steel
Exhaust: free 2" stainles steel
Oil catch tank
80*C thermostat and some other minor mods.
If I would have the knowledge I have now year before it would have been much easier... but it wasn't.
The main problem was the crank wedge (long story incl. cam timing problems and valves hitting pistons) and it snaped this summer when my car was 1000km from home. Now the crank is replaced and everything is back in one working piece.
Some pictures:
- custom GT20 mount
(http://polskajazda.pl/foto/foto-zoom/ApsikMK2GTD_326.jpg)
- TDI crank shaft
(http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5893/mk2gtd339ol5.jpg)
- proper vanes control solution (thank you tintin - I've been thinking for 2 months how to make it as simple as possible keeping functionality)
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3158/mk2gtd349fp7.jpg)
(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/9646/mk2gtd352ro8.jpg)
(http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/622/mk2gtd353yo9.jpg)
-vanes control improved with MBC
(http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/197/mk2gtd358ug3.jpg)
-engine bay now:
(http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/2881/mk2gtd283xc0.jpg)
-the car itself:
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1271/mk2gtd355wo2.jpg)
(http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4138/mk2gtd295vl9.jpg)
Now I'm crousing for at least 1000km after that I'll try to find a nice power setup. I think 140+bhp and 300+Nm is possibe ... right?
I hope the engine is finaly ready for some power :roll:
I'd like to know your opinion about my project and all suggestions and questions are welcome.
PS. Many thanks to Zaprzal (VNT and power idea), Trochim (10mm pump), Da-BRT (great injectors) and tintin (complicated vanes control)
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That's a thing of beauty.
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Your car looks great man, love the blacked out intercooler, very stealthy. Would love to see a vid of this thing running.
Just out of curiosity how much boost are you running?
1Slowvw
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Your car looks great man, love the blacked out intercooler, very stealthy. Would love to see a vid of this thing running.
Just out of curiosity how much boost are you running?
1Slowvw
Video comes soon - as soon as I find cameda with audio recording (my rec video only)
Currently for crusing ~1bar (1,2bar in peak). But I have no idea about the proper boost for power setup - guesing ~1,4-1,5bar
And one more thing - I have to get rid of the 02O gearbox is way to short. In spring I want to build 02A gearbox with 5th gear from syncro when replacing it I think it will be a good idea to reinforce the crankshaft fixing:
(http://www.kotinet.com/matti.farm/Audi/Moottori/114-1424_img.jpg)
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Hmm, I wonder how my pics have got there :shock: :? :roll:
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Hmm, I wonder how my pics have got there :shock: :? :roll:
Because in my opinion it's the best idea to reinforce the crankshaft
If you have any obiections I'll remove this pict immediately.
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nice headlights! where did you get them? I want a set!
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Hmm, I wonder how my pics have got there :shock: :? :roll:
don't worry, it's just 1.9mTDI syncro project site and this guy (Ventil from this forum) have some nice diesel fotos on server
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nice headlights! where did you get them? I want a set!
custom made. Only in Poland ;) 8)
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nice headlights! where did you get them? I want a set!
custom made. Only in Poland ;) 8)
Indeed m8
That's Bi-Xenon system on lenses in AutoPal Clear hedlamps. I build it myself.
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8803/mk2gtd231ck6.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1870/mk2gtd232gl1.jpg
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/3685/mk2gtd238yb0.jpg
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Ah so it's running again? Asked for feadback on the injectors but I think the email didn't reached you.
I'm very curious about the power! :D
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My guess is around 170hp/350nm with that setup :D
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Ah so it's running again? Asked for feadback on the injectors but I think the email didn't reached you.
I'm very curious about the power! :D
No the email didn't show up but as I said before "thank you for the injectors" great stuff man.
My guess is around 170hp/350nm with that setup :D
...and the boost suppose to be?? (~1,5bar??)
Dyno test not before the end of winter. But I'm very curious about the power.
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Can you explain the VNT control a bit? Does the throttle connection only open the vanes on full throttle? Is the other controller a vacuum can or from a wastegate? How is the transition from vanes closed to vanes open? Can you feel it or is it smooth?
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Can you explain the VNT control a bit?
ok... take a look at this picture:
(http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/622/mk2gtd353yo9.jpg)
Does the throttle connection only open the vanes on full throttle?
The throttle connection close the vanes and open them as well (increasing throttle = closing vanes, decreasing throttle = opening vanes - cable connection is stiff enough to work both directions!)
Is the other controller a vacuum can or from a wastegate?
That's preasure can, it comes from stock AAZ KKK turbo wastegate so increasing preasure = opening vanes (because of the spring it can do the job)
How is the transition from vanes closed to vanes open? Can you feel it or is it smooth?
Comparing to 1.8T 300bhp I've been driving recently it's very smooth (just like my G60) but you can feel a bit more torque increase @~2400rpm (only on full throttle) and you can hear very clearly that the vanes are close :) turbo noise is quite loud and typical :D (it'a also because of the location of a air filter)
Understand it like this: when I'm crousing and I accelerate full throttle it needs ~1sec to build the boost (0 to 1bar) but the torque does't 'strike' you like tuned 1.8T used to do.
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So does the throttle cable override the boost can or the other way? I can't quite make out how the throttle cable and the boost can are connected. Is that rod with the two nuts on it the vnt actuator rod or is it on the other side of that plate?
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So does the throttle cable override the boost can or the other way?
The other way - cable pulls vnt actuator but when the boost increase the can just push actuator back. Other words: on full throttle the cable holds (up) the actuator (vanes CLOSE) but the preasure can can push it back (down) because of the spring.
I can't quite make out how the throttle cable and the boost can are connected.
They are not connected :D They work together ... cooperation ;)
Is that rod with the two nuts on it the vnt actuator rod or is it on the other side of that plate?
Yes - that rod with two nuts just under the can is the vnt actuator rod (on the top I added a piece of plate to connect the cable). There is nothing else on the other side of the plate
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So the black rod underneath the boost can is the old wastegate stem? It looks like it isn't touching the vnt actuator, is that right?
Do you mean that on full throttle, the vanes are closed and as boost builds the boost can opens the vanes?
One last question, are the vanes open or closed without a controller. Is there a spring that keeps the vanes in a certain position?
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Do you mean that on full throttle, the vanes are closed and as boost builds the boost can opens the vanes?
You are right! Sorry m8 that's my mistake - it was 2:30am when I was writing that and I mixed up some facst. My posts are already corrected.
So the black rod underneath the boost can is the old wastegate stem? It looks like it isn't touching the vnt actuator, is that right?
That's right. The old wastegate steam is touching the vnt actuator only on full throttle when vanes close and by increasing boost = steam is pushing the actuator down (opening vanes).
One last question, are the vanes open or closed without a controller. Is there a spring that keeps the vanes in a certain position?
Vanes are OPEN on the neutral/start position (like on the picture). It doesn't need any spring because the cable controls that.
.... and libbybapa have noticed my mistake too :)
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Is that rod with the two nuts on it the vnt actuator rod or is it on the other side of that plate?
Yes - that rod with two nuts just under the can is the vnt actuator rod (on the top I added a piece of plate to connect the cable). There is nothing else on the other side of the plate
I cant quite get my head round this. If the cable is attached to the plate welded to the actuator rod then surely when the wastegate rod presses against it to move the vanes back under high boost it will also move the cable with it, and pull the arm on the pump.
Im sure im missing something as it makes sense that the plate moves and compresses the spring below the plate, rather than tugging on the cable. If this is the case i just cant figure out how the cable is attached to pull on the vanes during acceleration but can still allow the spring to compress under high boost. Or am i just being thick!?
Care to elaborate a little? Thanks
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Please don't comment my paint skills but this may help:
(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6097/mk2gtd346acs6.jpg)
The plate is mounted to the GT20 with 2 stock screws M6 (hot part) Solid orange part is the bushing that holds vnt actuator rod vertically. On the picture you can see that it's much thinner than on my drawing
Preasure can is welded to the "orange" plate
VNT arm (the solid brown part allows to adjust the rod position - higher/lower)
VNT actuator rod with a piece of "metal" welded on the top and there is a whole just to let the cable go through
Cable from mountain bike front disk break :) attached behind the pomp to the arm and on the other side to the vnt actuator rod but it has a lock above the actuator than goes through a whole in the actuator than through a spring and a lock on the end - this way fixing is flexible
spring from a pen (double in my case) allows to push the vnt actuator rod down on high boost on full throttle
Guys my english is't as good as yours but I hope you can understand that.
It took me 2 months to find "in my opinion" the simplest solution (base - tintin's vnt control).
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That is a GREAT picture! I fully comprehend it now, I was wasn't sure where the boost can came into play in the other pictures since it looked like it was broken, but now I see the shaft comes and hits the flat plate to push it back to open when the desired boost is met. Very nice.
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Simple question for any of the VNT people: Is there a spring in the vnt actuator that keeps the vanes open unless something acts on it or do the vanes just flop around if the actuator isn't hooked up to anything? In other words, is the cable coming from the throttle the only thing that closes the vanes?
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In other words, is the cable coming from the throttle the only thing that closes the vanes?
Yes in my case it is. I think it's the point of the system.
Only the throttle can close the vanes and increase boost. Without the cable I had hudge turbo surge :( because it also opens vanes when throttle released.
Another picture:
(http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/7789/mk2gtd354awt7.jpg)
colors match the previous drawing
Yellow stripes - locks on the cable
Orange circles - mounting points/screws M6
Orange U - bushing that keeps the actuator vertically