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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: wikdslo on October 22, 2007, 07:26:24 am
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I have a 1.6 in my rabbit. The throttle cable is definitely loose. The pedal does not spring all the way back as a result of too much lenght in the cable.
Recently, it started sticking a bit. So it won't come back as far as it *can* and will keep the motor revving a bit.
Is this something I should be looking for on the pump or on the cable? And is there anyway to repair the cable? It's $40 for a new one from the dealer unfortunately.
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So it looks like the pump is gummed up where the cable swings to give it more fuel.
It looks like someone sprayed some lithium grease or something similar that got really gummy and gross.
I was thinking i'd just spray it with some brake cleaner and hit it with an air compressor. Is it ok to spray brake cleaner on this pump?
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I was thinking i'd just spray it with some brake cleaner and hit it with an air compressor. Is it ok to spray brake cleaner on this pump?
Maybe. But I would just use wd40.
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Maybe. But I would just use wd40.
Yeah, I ended up doing that. After cleaning it a lot, and hosing it, it was better but still doing it. Then i lifted a part of the upper spring on that whole assembly, and pushed it back down, and voila! She's good to go!!!
Then last night i blew out a rear brake line... AHHHHH :roll:
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You blew a brake line? where did you get this thing safetied?
Should I bring my brake flairing tools this weekend?
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damn thats scary... if i were you wikdslo i'd replace all the brake lines just to be sure.
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Just visually inspect them and take a pair of side cutters to any section that looks questionable.
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damn thats scary... if i were you wikdslo i'd replace all the brake lines just to be sure.
I redid the fronts from caliper to Master cylinder.
The rears from the rubber lines were new. And the passenger rear has a union right where it comes to the back of the car, and that portion on is new. The only other questionable lines are the ones from the master to the prop valve. They look like they will be a bugger to do though. I was thinking of just diong them for the sake of doing them.. I'll get pics today. Maybe someone can give me their thoughts?
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If things are really rusty down there I would replace them. Often rust is hidden behind the undercoating. Steel lines usually start to ooze slowly as they fail. Rubber flex lines can fail explosively sounding like a gunshot when they fail. They only fail when you need them! Replace them if they are as old as the car. Replacing the steel lines is a snap. You may even be able to buy the preformed lines but making them up is no challenge. It is a lot cheaper too. Get the bulk 25' roll of 3/16" line and a couple of adapters to mate to the female metric threads at the m/c and proportioner. Be prepared to come up with a new way to fasten the lines to the underside as those little fold over tabs will be history. You even get to learn how to use a flare tool!
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If things are really rusty down there I would replace them. Often rust is hidden behind the undercoating. Steel lines usually start to ooze slowly as they fail. Rubber flex lines can fail explosively sounding like a gunshot when they fail. They only fail when you need them! Replace them if they are as old as the car. Replacing the steel lines is a snap. You may even be able to buy the preformed lines but making them up is no challenge. It is a lot cheaper too. Get the bulk 25' roll of 3/16" line and a couple of adapters to mate to the female metric threads at the m/c and proportioner. Be prepared to come up with a new way to fasten the lines to the underside as those little fold over tabs will be history. You even get to learn how to use a flare tool!
Yeah, got the flair tool, the 25' of 3/16" and a couple of ends. Should be fun to see what happens :)