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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: carrizog60 on August 30, 2007, 01:44:59 pm
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well, looks like i have a solid lifter engine...
that's why it was louder than the other gtds :oops:
anyway, i am going to perform the metal gasket upgrade but dont know what to use to block the hole in the block...
do i need to block it too on the head?
also, is the drilling in the head/block (water passages improvement)suitable for mechanical head engines?
i would appreciate a fast response as i have the car stopped and the engine opened and i need the car to go work...
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Solid lifter head also?
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AFAIK - the metal hg on the solid block is experimental at best, search is your friend, there is a lot of discussion about it.
select "Search for all terms" when you search to get more relevant answers.
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i have serched, i read that someone is using but no clue on the material used to plug the hole...
also no clue if only hydro engines can receive the drilling to open water passages :idea:
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you would need to block the oil hole which interferes with a coolant passage and most folks who have tried it have experienced seepage at the front of the block. Also they've used rtv to the best of my knowledge. You can definitely drill the passages, but once again, if you get stuck using a fiber gasket you will have to drill it too.. if you are in a hurry, and want rock solid reliable, the metal hg is going to pose a problem.. It is experimental at this stage.
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I have used piece of 2mm rubber gasket. Works fine, no problems.
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and do i need to block the hole in the head?(if it as one?)
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No, just the piece of rubber. Pic (http://www.kotinet.com/matti.farm/Audi/Moottori/122-2289_img.jpg)
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cant see very welll in that pic....
is the rubber installed?
do you put the rubber to the inside of the holes or just cut a piece with the shape of the hole in the gasket to fill the gasket?
old cars(before tubeless tyres)used something(that i cant find the name in english) to keep the air inside.
does that rubber enough to do the job?
last night just drilled the block and head 8)
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Rubber is installed in that pic. Just cut a piece that fit in to hole in gasket. I´ve used rubber from gas cap gasket...
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is the rubber that black spot or is that the hole?
sorry for all the questions...
i was planning on cutting something with the shape of the hole so i could make the gasket full, without any hole.
is that the way to do it?
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I plan to install a 1.9 metal head gasket before or when i turbo my N/A. It of course is non hyd. But i'm curious on which thickness to use. The compression on my engine is slightly weeker due to age. I guess i need to mesure the protrusion and order a gasket but i really can't have the car down while waiting on a gasket. What would you recomend? I think i have a 2 hole now but i'm not 100%.
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well, the headgasket is installed.
not running yet but my mechanic is not very confident with the outcome results...
the hole in the metal gasket exists the block and he dont believe that it will work for a long time...
it is normal to the gasket be like that?
the gasket is correct and ive seen the gasket in place and theres no way to put everything inside the block area... :idea:
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It´ll work (http://www.kotinet.com/matti.farm/Audi/Moottori/122-2288_img.jpg)
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thank god!
i will then put some info on how its doing 8)
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That´s why you need to block that hole.
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ok, bad news...
i purchased a rebuilt pump from a guy in other forum and did the governor mod before puting it in the engine.
now my mechanic cant get to make the car running properly...
he said that something is wrong with the pump because the mods that i have done wouldnt do what the engine is doing...
here are the problems:
-car misfires a lot
-lot of smoke(unburn fuel smell)
-the throtle dont respond very good
what can cause this?
the distribution was done with belts and accessories being replaced,can something have gone wrong?
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sounds like maybe bad timing and perhaps he didn't bleed the fuel lines
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he said everything was ok,the only new factor was the pump... :oops:
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Do you still have the old pump to stick back on? Keep everything else the same and then you'll know it's the new pump wrong. Then remove govnormod from new pump and try that...
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if i remove the pump i need to time the engine again...right?
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Of course you have to.
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with the same pump the car runs now.
bad but runs.
at cold starts it still makes the white/blue smoke with lots of diesel smell and struggles a bit to mantain idle...
hard to start and misfires too.
when warm the idle is more stable and the smoke stops but still misfires, even at idle :x
next weekend its going to the diesel shop to get things done properly, hope that it will be good or else i will have to replace for the old pump... :oops:
any other things that could do this behavior?
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try loosening off the injector lines one at a time when it is running. You might have a bad injector.
If the HG didn't seal properly you could also get these symptoms, try a compression test
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injectors are not in the best shape but they were fine before HG change...
how can the HG be related to those symptoms?
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injectors are not in the best shape but they were fine before HG change...
how can the HG be related to those symptoms?
easily. bad hg = bad compression = crappy running motor.
edit: wait a minute... you put a 1.9 metal HG on right? that will change the way the car runs... not a lot, but quite noticeably when cold. it is somewhat thicker.
the 2 notch 1.9 is somewhat closer to a 3 notch for a 1.6 i think...
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its a 3 notch metal gasket.
i dont think that could be that, the car when cold if i rev it it woill fall on its face and dont sustein the idle... :oops:
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I´d check the pump&cam timing again.
When I put metal gasket, I should have used 1 notch gasket, but I put 3 notch. It smoked a little at cold, misfired a few times. When little warmer, ran fine.
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When I did the metal HG on the NA in the Caddy, I chose A piece of the old HG material. It's the same thickness ( three hole), it's thermal expansion rate would be similar. I chose a section that had a small hole, similar to the hole that should be there. Then I cut and filed until it was a perfect fit. Put the hole in the gasket. With a tooth pick I applied a small amount of copper colored gasket sealer (High Temp) into any remaining areas of the circle to complete the seal. Let it set up for about 2 hours so that when I torqued the head it would squish any sealer and be exactly the same hight as the rest of the head gasket. I've got about 30,000 miles so far and it been flawless.
HELPFUL HINT: Cut 4 of your old head bolts down so they stick up about 4-5 threads with them turned in finger tight. Also cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver to unscrew them after you install the rest of the head bolts and tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Put them in the four corners. This allows you to set the head in place perfectly! Unscrew the cut studs and use a magnet to slide them out. Install the remaining bolts/studs, tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Now your ready to tighten to Mfr specs knowing the head gasket was put on there prefectly! (Sorry how long this got)
Hope this helps,
J.B.
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When I did the metal HG on the NA in the Caddy, I chose A piece of the old HG material. It's the same thickness ( three hole), it's thermal expansion rate would be similar. I chose a section that had a small hole, similar to the hole that should be there. Then I cut and filed until it was a perfect fit. Put the hole in the gasket. With a tooth pick I applied a small amount of copper colored gasket sealer (High Temp) into any remaining areas of the circle to complete the seal. Let it set up for about 2 hours so that when I torqued the head it would squish any sealer and be exactly the same hight as the rest of the head gasket. I've got about 30,000 miles so far and it been flawless.
HELPFUL HINT: Cut 4 of your old head bolts down so they stick up about 4-5 threads with them turned in finger tight. Also cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver to unscrew them after you install the rest of the head bolts and tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Put them in the four corners. This allows you to set the head in place perfectly! Unscrew the cut studs and use a magnet to slide them out. Install the remaining bolts/studs, tighten to 10-15 ft lbs. Now your ready to tighten to Mfr specs knowing the head gasket was put on there prefectly! (Sorry how long this got)
Hope this helps,
J.B.
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Another helpful hit. Toss the streach bolts and get studs from ARP or Raceware. Reusable, and no variable clamping force from torq to yield monkey business.
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is it normal to see air bubles in the line that goes from the filter to the pump?
i thought that vw´s would bleed them selfs(is that the term?)
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we didnt mess with that part so i guess its the pump...
shes not leaking diesel so how can air bubles appear on feed line?
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Easy, cold be a pin hole anywhere in the supply line, from the tank to the pump....
Could even be a bad seal on the filter (fuel).
dan
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i've seen air bubbles accumulate when i would floor the motor under the hood. at idle there shouldn't be any... but a few here and there isn't so bad.
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i have checked the fuel lines and now it idles fine.air was coming from the exit of fuel filter...
in cold start still shakes and misses,glow plugs are only working AFTER the engine starts and stalls...
then the glow light goes on and after it goes off the engine starts right up...
what can it be?
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Have you already solve the problem?
Can you try with the old pump? It could be some part with bad assembly inside the pump...
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it will be done this weekend.
according to the pump shop guy it as something wrong in the advance mechanism and its letting air to enter...
besides the missing beats and the smoke it falls on its face as soon as i hit 3000...
lets try with the old pump and see if it solves the problem(it should ,car was fine before...) :arrow:
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OK, it was the pump.
with old pump installed the car is now almost fine...
and i say almost because when cold it cant hold the idle...
after warming up a bit it idles fine and constant...
i found that the vertical screw to adjust the idle was disconnected from the plastic thing that attaches to the pump, could be that?
and about the metal gasket for now only problem i see was a small drip of water in the block, maybe when engine cools down the pressure can escape from the plugged area...could some leak stopper in the water solve that?
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most folks who have tried it have experienced seepage at the front of the block.
Like I said..
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yes, like you said :lol:
but if it goes just with the amount of water that is i dont bother at all...
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I applaud the effort to use this setup, but I am a stickler when it comes to these things. I really like things to be battened down tight with no leaks, no uncertainties, so that everything 100% dealt with. My thinking on this mod is, the fact that it seeps at all is a problem, if it seeps now, what will it do later with some miles on it?
Not trying to bash your effort, but if it were mine, I wouldn't run the vehicle unless I could figure out a way to deal with that issue 100%.
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if i got the money i would do that...
for now it will go this way,i only see that one time in the morning,never saw it again so maybe it could be sealed now :lol:
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I hope you are right.. :) keep us posted..
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the radiator also leaks a bit so i need to get that sorted out to really check the water consumption :oops:
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radiator replaced and for now(2 days) the water seems to be in the same level 8)
lets see if it hangs ok :D
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Did it seal? No news is bad news? Has any one cut the metal gasket so that the seal is made with the filler patch around the hole instead of bisecting it?
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no news is good news so far :lol:
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no news is good news so far :lol:
That's great news I going for it! Thanks for the update.
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for now its holding up.
sometimes i rev it to max and even with almost 30psi on k24 it´s still holding on 8)
lets see what time tells...