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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: jtanguay on August 13, 2007, 07:15:07 pm
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well i broke it :oops: still closed though so i can at least drive it around. anyone know a cheap source for these things??? dealer only item???
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did you try crappy tire or any of those shoe box outlets?
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Any of your local jobbers should carry a kit that has a seat and bleeder. It is intended to fix a problem with the seat being damaged, which may very well happen before you can get the old one out. You have to drill oversized, tap and install the seat. I've only ever done one, and found out after the fact that a rebuilt caliper would have been cheaper by the time I bought drill bits, tap and spent the time and frustration. BTW, the rebuilt with warranty was cheaper than junkyard prices.
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well i was hoping to buy some bleeder screws and change them all around... changing calipers and rear drums would be $$$ i'll try crappy tire
actually i've found this: (the bleeder screw sticking out is what i broke...)
(http://image.autopartsonlinecanada.com/live/thumb/N202049723TRW.JPG)
and i think mine on my car is leaking anyways, because when i took the tire off it had a nice wet spot on it. so good time to change both sides.
i'm going to put some anti seize on the threads to avoid this happening in the future.[/img]
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I use teflon tape on the threads on all my bleeder screws. It helps seal against air leakage past the threads when vacuum bleeding from the screws as well as preventing corrosion.
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I think that they are 6 X 1mm and available at Carquest, cheap. Run a drill, say about 7/32, into the old bleeder and with any luck you will tear it out and still have the original threads to play with. Bottom the drill lightly in the caliper or cylinder to clean up the mating surface. Anti seize sometimes works but the best thing is to break them open about once a year at the least.
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I've always antiseized, but I really like the teflon tape idea!
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hmmm teflon tape... good idea! i'm definitely changing the one side (only $16 each for the wheel cylinder) because i'm sure that is the culprit for my leak, but the other side i will try some lube & a torch.
does teflon tape withstand the high heat though??
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Teflon is good for high heat at least of the kind found in brake cylinders. I have seen a really cool tool to remove the bleeder screws. It is a 6 point socket which fits in your air chisel has wrench flats on it so you can get a good torque on the screw with an open end wrench, while hammering it with the air chisel. I can't remember where I saw it but if anyone knows please post. It appeared to be the ultimate in removal tools. Cheers Dan
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Core it out instead of fixing it. If it's that corroded, the insides and the seals won't be much better.
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Core it out instead of fixing it. If it's that corroded, the insides and the seals won't be much better.
i'm definitely changing both wheel cylinders. they're cheap enough that i don't mind doing it...
i was hoping to bleed the brakes this summer, but didn't expect this much of a surprise :roll:
i can't wait to change the calipers :( they are way more $$$!!!!
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PB them for a few days before hand
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I just bought the 320 pc socket set from mastercraft for on sale for $250. reg $699. I needed a good set, but princess auto has a comparable set with only 220 pc (no 12 pt sockets) for around $150 AND it comes in its own carrying case which is nice.. oh well i'll stick with the mastercraft.
the kit had a nice deep 6 pt 7mm socket that fit snugly on the bleeder screw... i seriously thought i had it coming out but i should have known better from what everyone says about those bleeder screws :roll:
i'm now considering changing the rear shoes too since i just bought the brake tool kit from princess auto on sale for $30. i bought it to do the brakes on my sisters PT cruiser.
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man this sucks... i managed to get the leaky wheel cylinder out (yay) but the other side is in there really good. I've managed to get one of the allen bolts out, but the other just rounded :( even the hydraulic fitting isn't playing nice!!!
i might just leave it since it isn't leaking, and change it later when i get some new bolts.
i'm thinking of just grinding off the hydraulic fitting and getting a new one. or maybe i'll just heat the hell out of the wheel cylinder and use lots of lube... hmmm!
any advice?
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man this sucks... i managed to get the leaky wheel cylinder out (yay) but the other side is in there really good. I've managed to get one of the allen bolts out, but the other just rounded :( even the hydraulic fitting isn't playing nice!!!
i might just leave it since it isn't leaking, and change it later when i get some new bolts.
i'm thinking of just grinding off the hydraulic fitting and getting a new one. or maybe i'll just heat the hell out of the wheel cylinder and use lots of lube... hmmm!
any advice?
Hammer in a Torx key...
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I tried that with my downpipe to turbo stud and I snapped it, leaving a nice hard metal chunk in the drilled out stud :x . All four studs had snapped so with another one I tried an extractor and that snapped :x :x :x . Now I am having a hell of a time drilling into these super hard chunks of metal lodged in the turbine housing :x :evil: :x :evil: :x :evil:
Just thought I'd share my frustration :cry:
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I tried that with my downpipe to turbo stud and I snapped it, leaving a nice hard metal chunk in the drilled out stud :x . All four studs had snapped so with another one I tried an extractor and that snapped :x :x :x . Now I am having a hell of a time drilling into these super hard chunks of metal lodged in the turbine housing :x :evil: :x :evil: :x :evil:
Just thought I'd share my frustration :cry:
sounds like you're having a worse time than me. for now i've left the old wheel cylinder (doesn't leak at least) but the car does pull to the new wheel cylinder side when hard braking (so no hard braking unless necessary). i did however change shoes & springs and turn drums on both sides. feels good to have braking power again :oops:
just to get me from point a to b. what i'm going to do is get some new bolts to hold her in at CCS and just drill out the old bolt... that'll be that. the other problem is the brake line. i'm probably just going to buy a straight piece from c-tire and bend it myself. anti seize and or teflon tape is definitely going on!
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The answer is as near as your Princess Auto store. I just got a broken coolant flange stud out of the side of a head. I drilled it and managed to break the drill in the bottom of the hole. No amount of chiseling would remove it. The problem was hard drill bit in somewhat softer steel in really soft aluminium. I went to my friendly PA and bought a couple of sets of 1/8" diamond burrs for $3.99 ea and went home to find my dremel. It took an hour of burring and blowing out the dust to get the stud out but it is very easy to control. I then cleaned up the hole with a tap and voila fixed. I used up about 4 of the 20 bits in the set. You probably can't do this in the vehicle. Good luck Dan
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I will have to try that because the cobalt bit I have been trying hasn't been doing a thing.
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I usually spray PB blaster inside the bleeder and give it time to work on the threads from the inside,... a little on the outer threads too.
Hammering on the top of the bleeder usually ends up with it broken at the surface so I stick an allen wrench down the hole and tap on it so the energy goes to the deep threads.
I've had several of the allen bolts, holding the wheel cylinders on, strip out lately. I take a cutoff wheel to the wheel cylinder where the bolt goes through, getting as close to the backing plate as required.
With your luck the brake line will probably freeze in the nut and twist the line when you try to loosen the nut,... after you break it loose just turn the wheel cylinder instead of the nut.
Be sure to put some antiseize between the brake line and nut as well as on the line nut threads,... while you have the antiseize out.
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I usually spray PB blaster inside the bleeder and give it time to work on the threads from the inside,... a little on the outer threads too.
Hammering on the top of the bleeder usually ends up with it broken at the surface so I stick an allen wrench down the hole and tap on it so the energy goes to the deep threads.
I've had several of the allen bolts, holding the wheel cylinders on, strip out lately. I take a cutoff wheel to the wheel cylinder where the bolt goes through, getting as close to the backing plate as required.
With your luck the brake line will probably freeze in the nut and twist the line when you try to loosen the nut,... after you break it loose just turn the wheel cylinder instead of the nut.
Be sure to put some antiseize between the brake line and nut as well as on the line nut threads,... while you have the antiseize out.
i'm just going to buy another brake line... probably overkill but it really pissed me off and its rusty anyways (but not too rusty.. i've seen worse!)
i was thinking of grinding off the allen bolt, but i'd rather get some carnage in there so i've decided to drill the bolt out from the other side... oh yess REVENGE is mine!!! :twisted:..... oh yea and definitely will goop up those fittings etc.
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If you break off a bleeder screw ,a left hand drill bit is successful about 75% of the time . If not ,then the heat generated from drilling is enough to use an easy out. This does work !!!!!!
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If you break off a bleeder screw ,a left hand drill bit is successful about 75% of the time . If not ,then the heat generated from drilling is enough to use an easy out. This does work !!!!!!
i would definitely try this for a caliper, but for a wheel cylinder, it wouldn't be worth my time. i will be bleeding my fronts soon... i'll spray penetrating fluid every day or two before a drive to help loosen them up.
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Ex brake shop mechanic's tips to not breaking bleeders:
1) always put the rubber caps on them
2) a little never seeze on threads only is extra insurance
3) A sharp tap on end of any suspect bleeder to persuade it.
4) before using so much torque that you break it, heat the wheel cylinder from the brake side just above the bleeder to a nice dull red, then wrench on it (for calipers heat it just below the bleeder, you want to aim for end of bleeder)
If it breaks: Take an old file and grind tang down so it is tapered, has nice sharp edges and the end will fit into bleeder. Pound it in, heat as above and turn with a wrench.
It is possible to bleed some wheel cylinders using a thin wire pushed past the edge of the wheel cup. Dont cut the edge of the cup though
For stuck line nuts, try a pair of good vice grips, the clamping action will deform nut a bit and often break the rusty bond, otherwise heat and penetrating oil.