VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: RockOcean on August 21, 2012, 10:25:50 am
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I recently broke down in Maine from overheating my AAZ 82' Westy. I am staying at a mechanics shop so this is a huge help. Just a little info 3 months ago I changed the radiator, retro fitting the newer style. After changing that I realized the head gasket was the source of the problem. I changed that, and it ran fine for 2 months driving it everyday and then 800 miles to Maine. All of a sudden one day it overheated again - the cap on the expansion tank would not tighten down. So I replaced the expansion tank and figured I would be on my way. Not the case about 50 miles down the road it overheated again - then a couple more times til I knew it was time to get it to shop.
I decided to tear the motor down completely. Luckily I have a hot tank right next to the van so the parts are all clean :- )
-The head has been checked and is warped .006 also has a crack but does not leak. It was a 1.6 head I plan on replacing with a 1.9
-Cylinder number 3 has a lot more carbon build up then the others, also on the bottom of the injector.
-Cylinder number 2 has a small or maybe big chip on the edge of the piston crown.
-All pistons have slight valve marks on them number 3 is the biggest.
I will be taking the disassembled motor to the machine shop today to have them check everything out. Gonna have them machine the crank for an AHU pulley as well.
Here are some pictures:
Chip on #2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782270596_9fb7a10cb6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqbW9d)IMG_8625 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqbW9d) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Chip and side wear on #2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782681025_11cbf54ca6_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/atflickr/59eyx0dr35)IMG_8626 (https://www.flickr.com/gp/atflickr/59eyx0dr35) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Carbon build up and valve imprint on #3
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782277911_8c335c4029_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqbYjk)IMG_8627 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqbYjk) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Crank Snout
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782280361_f537a43753_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqbZ3z)IMG_8631 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqbZ3z) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
I am posting on here because I want this rebuild to be done right and hopefully not again for a long time. So if you could give me your opinions on what I should do, and what parts to use I would really appreciate it. If you need anymore pictures of anything let me know and I will post them
Thanks so much,
Ryan
http://www.facebook.com/FreeRockOcean
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Got the block report back from the machine shop:
Piston is .20mm smaller and the Bore is .30 bigger then Bentley specs.
Does this sound right? I am going to get another machine shop to check it to make sure.
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That can't be correct. Maybe .020 and .030 but tenths is huge with these. The .003" would be the wear limit for overbore to the .001" spec.
The pistons look like they have been running with bad injectors/nozzles. I would get those pop tested and rebuilt.
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If those specs are right for the pistons and bores, then you were more than FIVE TIMES the wear limit.
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Well I guess I will be questioning the machine shop tomorrow. Thanks guys, you know anywhere I can find a aaz valve cover?
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Well I guess I will be questioning the machine shop tomorrow. Thanks guys, you know anywhere I can find a aaz valve cover?
If you mean gasket, then RockAuto sells 'em, just look under Canadian options and use around a 1996ish jetta. Beck/Arnley, if you have preferences.
If you need the cover itself, I do have an extra.
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I need the cover, I will take it.
Do you have the pvc valve connector as well? The 1.6 cover has an outlet that a hose goes over and clamps to - where as the 1.9 cover has a hole that it pops into. Thats how it looks to me, correct me if I am wrong.
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So the mis-communication with the machine shop has been solved.
The pistons are .002 worn and the bore .003
What would you recommend I do at these numbers? I am thinking standard size pistons with new rings and just honing the bore. Or would it be better to get 80mm pistons and get the block bored to fit them?
As for the injectors, is the carbon build up the sign for the bad injector? Because the #3 cylinder has a lot more noticeable carbon build up, would it be okay to just change out that injector?
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The wear limit on piston to cylinder clearance is 0.003. If you were to hone, you would be past that on just cylinder wear. To be in spec you will need to bore and use new oversize pistons. Be sure the shop doing the machine work is familiar with VW diesels and that they are willing and able to hit the 0.001" piston to cylinder clearance. That is tighter than most engines and many machine shops will want to bore to at least 0.002" which starts the cylinder already half worn out.
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The pics of #2 were definately a bad spraying injector. #3 could have been or it could have been a valve issue or a compression issue. I would take them all to a shop and have them pop tested or just have them rebuilt with new nozzles. The 4th piston melting down could very well be the injectors being bad and getting too hot in there. I would not run those injectors without knowing exactly what condition they are in, just me though.
I recommend getting the next size pistons and doing the entire thing over. You could put it back together but it will not last as long or it could run like garbage until you pull it and do the complete rebuild. If the bores are at .003 and the pistons are -.002 then that is .005" and soon they will slap especially when cold. If you are not wanting to fuss with it then I would do it now while it is apart and ready to go, but that is just me.
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Thanks for all this info - feeling much better now about getting this done right. Are my Intake and Exhaust Manifolds from the 1.6 head going to match up with the 1.9 head?
Here is a parts list I have put together if you think I am missing something please let me know. Does anybody know the part numbers for the Crank Bolts, Intermediate Shaft O-ring, and Intermediate Shaft Bearings?
- Valve Cover with mounting bolts (I have had the gasket for 3 months) 50 - 100
- Head http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_reviews.php?manufacturers_id=32&products_id=32 750 - 800
- Injectors http://www.performancediesel.ca 125 - 300
- 028 103 383BK Head Gasket $22
- 028 198 012E Cylinder Head Gasket Set $32
- 80mm Prothe Pistons $225
- 038 198 155 G 80mm Over sized Piston Ring Set Goetze $60
- Machine Shop Bill 150 - 300
- 028105425C Connecting Rod BOLTS (AAZ)
- Crank BOLTS (AAZ)
- 068 103 384A Head BOLTS (AAZ)
- 028 129 717D Intake Manifold Gasket
- 028 129 589B Exhaust Manifold Gasket
- 028 198 501 Engine Connecting Rod Bearing $25
- 026 198 491 Engine Crankshaft Main Bearing Set $34
- 026 198 421 Engine Crankshaft Thrust Washer Set $11
- AHU TDi Crank Sprocket Free
- 056 905 261 Vacuum Pump O-ring
- Intermediate Shaft O-ring
- Intermediate Shaft Bearings
- 037 115 220B Oil pan gasket
- 068 103 171F Rear Main Seal and gasket for mounting plate
- 068 103 085E Front Main Seal and gasket for mounting plate
- 068 115 304B Newer style oil filler https://www.getvwparts.com/oem-vw-parts.html $88
- Machine Flywheel for starter $50
- Flywheel and VR6 Clutch BOLTS
- 028 109 119P Timing Belt
- 028 129 713E AAZ Intake Manifold 50-100
Total is gonna be $1,700 - $2,300
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Exhaust manifolds will be the same, but you will want to get an AAZ intake. They have D shaped ports instead of 0 shaped. You can run the 1.6 stuff, but it's risky. There isn't a lot of contact so it'll likely blow the gasket out.
You don't need a cylinder head gasket set if you are buying the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets separate.
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Ok I see that now - and it looks like its the same size and fitting so I can put my right angle elbow on it. And not have any problems with inter-cooler piping changing. Now I just need to find a AAZ Intake Manifold - anybody got one for sale?
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The engine thrust washers "probably" won't need bought. Usuall they are fine. Measure the endplay and see. It is something you will have to do with new ones anyway. I had my machinist measure mine from the exploded 1.6 I have and they measured the same as new. As long as you don't ride the clutch 24/7 I am sure you will be fine on that one to reuse.
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Alright thanks everyone :)
All the parts are on the way. I sent the injectors over to Giles for a check and possible rebuild, he also had a complete head for me. I ended up going with the Prothe Pistons, I wanted the Goetze rings but I could not find them in the 80mm over size so I went with Grants. I got a valve cover from http://car-part.com/ The intake manifold off ebay http://stores.ebay.com/trigonmachinery this guy sells mostly Marine parts but has some really good VW Diesel parts as well. All the other parts I got from my brother, if you ever need common parts he can get them for you. When I get home I am going to make a Vanagon parts section for his page www.urotuning.com.
Two things I do not have yet are Crank Bolts, and Intermediate Shaft Bearings - do these need to be changed?
Any tips and tricks when rebuilding the motor?
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Inspect your intermediate shaft bearings. If they look at all questionable, then they should be changed. Changing them is easy, but requires the right tool to do so. There's a fellow on the Vortex/eBay who sells a nice tool for it.
Crank bolt needs to be replaced and torqued correctly (no impact for this job).
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The intermediate bearings do look worn. Any idea on where to find these and the main cap bolts? I have looked all over, that's why they are the only two parts left that I need.
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You can get them pre-sized from most local auto parts stores (Napa, Checker, Autozone, etc, etc) for $20-40 or so. They will list them as "cam bearings". I think there is a thread in the FAQ section with bearing manufacturer interchange numbers.
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Main cap bolts are m10-1.5x65mm and use grade 10.9 not 8.8. I am actually using a socket head instead of a hex head as you can get them in grade 12.9, they are stronger. If you aren't in a hurry I could get you some in the mail, let me know.
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Great thanks guys, I am getting the valve cover from Giles as well, will my 1.6 cam go into the 1.9 head? and how do I know if the cam is good or not? Giles wanted to keep his cam. I am really in no rush, so I would like the main cap bolts you have. Instead of relying on whatever the machine shop gets. PM me the payment info please. I am leaving for NYC for the weekend so the next update will be when all the parts get here some time next week. Gonna try and take lots of photos of the rebuild. Thanks again I couldnt have done this right without your help :)
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Well parts are starting to come in the Prothe pistons came in first so I took them down to the machine shop so they can start on the re-boring. I also got the AHU crank sprocket so I took that and the crank to the machine shop right down the street. This guys shop is incredibly clean and just plan awesome. I believe he works mostly on Aircooled motors - he told me if I wanted to fix my van right he would put a proper air cooled motor in it like its suppose to have! haha
The newer style oil filler came in. I was hoping to use my cap and dipstick from my old one but turns out it will not fit and the dip stick will not make the bend any way. Is there any way I can rig it so I can still check the oil from the plate opening? I have heard of using a Bass string to do this. I guess I would have to buy a cap that fits and then drill a hole in it and some how attach the bass string to the dip stick?? Does anyone know exactly how much oil I should put in a completely dry motor to make my marking on the custom dip stick?
When I first got the van I had to rebuild the transmission. So I decided to upgrade the clutch to a 228mm disk by getting a G60 Flywheel and a VR6 pressure plate. I never knew that you had to shave 2mm off the diameter of the flywheel. It did not turn when I first put it on - so I put a copper washer in between the bell housing and the starter on the bolts. It worked, but I later found out that when the engine fully warmed up, if I shut it down I would have to wait 30 minutes before I could start it again. Due to the flywheel expanding up against the starter. So I am fixing that problem as well. Eventually I am going to go back to the stock setup, as I have no view able TDC mark. Although the guy at the machine shop says he will be able to make a mark for me. And if I want to pull off the oil pan you have to remove the fly wheel.
Here are some photos:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782529849_6ca532f305_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/gp/atflickr/177717357D)IMG_8854 (https://www.flickr.com/gp/atflickr/177717357D) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782286396_25cfe662a0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc1QC)IMG_8856 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc1QC) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782286771_a706959b6f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc1X6)IMG_8857 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc1X6) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782532349_890a405e63_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdgXc)IMG_8866 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdgXc) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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Air-cooled motor, I just threw up in my mouth. Why? To cut the power in half and consume twice as much fuel at the same time...
In your picture the crank isn't machined for the TDI sprocket...
For the license plate dipstick checking, you can make a dipstick tube from steel brake line to curve over the top of the alt and run to the stock block hole. I'll post a pic later if you need one. I'm the one who's made the dipstick from a Bass string.
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A picture would be great - does it use the stock dip stick tube or does it replace the whole thing?
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Dipstick tube and dipstick both need to be replaced. I'll try to post a pic later.
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Got my intake manifold in today, and I got some work from Steve that refinished my crank to accept the AHU crank sprocket. He also shaved 2mm off my flywheel diameter so it does no rub the starter when the engines hot. So for payment I am doing some work on his property - stacking fire wood, and organizing all sort of Aircooled VW parts.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782697580_b0cf807094_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqe851)IMG_9053 copy_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqe851) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52781750202_8a208603ca_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9grU)IMG_9062 copy_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9grU) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782756578_2e243c660d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeqBd)IMG_9064 copy_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeqBd) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782538589_407a2eb1f5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdiNM)IMG_9072 copy_1 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdiNM) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52781751487_a569cf8ebf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9gQ4)Firewoodstackin (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9gQ4) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Should have photos of the crank snout tomorrow
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(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1746.jpg)
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Thanks for the picture. I think am going drill out the center of my old cap and glue it into the center of the new cap. Then some how hook up a bass string to the old dip stick.
Here are some pictures of the machine work done to the crank snout to fit the AHU crank sprocket. Also the 2mm shaved off the G60 flywheel. I told the guy I thought you just had to shave flat the old key way - but luckily he knew that wouldn't be the best fit so he ended up welding up the key way and then cutting the exact match for the D shape. Turned out great, he said that the line was under cutting from the weld.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782543079_c00c7cc960_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdk9c)IMG_9097 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdk9c) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782298996_6c67eddcee_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc5zS)IMG_9111 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc5zS) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782704030_8362684951_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqe9Zd)IMG_9106 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqe9Zd) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782704270_c3d0b37ffb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqea4m)IMG_9103 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqea4m) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
I should have the block re bored from the machine shop on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Nice progress. What are your thoughts on the Prothe pistons? Are you using the pins that came with them as I hear they have a thinner wall thickness. I am also assuming you are replacing the rings that came with the pistons with something of higher quality (Edit)
- 038 198 155 G 80mm Over sized Piston Ring Set Goetze
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Reason I ask is I'm about to do the same but not sure about the pins.
The folks your workin with sound like great people.
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Thanks, slowly but surely. Not to sure what to think about the pistons other then from what I have read about changing the rings which I am doing. I could not find Goetze in the .50 over bore size so I ended up going with Grant rings. Seems that nobody has any problems with them other then the cheap rings that come with them.
Does anyone have any info on the SABO rear main seals. At first take I thought it looked pretty cheap, but then I read that they are better because they are made with Teflon and there is no spring that can wear out. Some say they will also leak if not installed perfectly. Anybody have any problems with there seals?
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Picked up my cam from the machine shop today to make sure that it was good to put in the new 1.9 head. Not looking to good, what do you think? Time to go cam shopping?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782707210_79b937a820_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeaW3)CamWear (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeaW3) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782765243_fdd20a344c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqetbB)CamWear II (https://flic.kr/p/2oqetbB) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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Found intermediate shaft bearings here: http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,116,SH1209S
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I have a valve cover coming but am gonna need these to put it on. Doe anybody have these for sale?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52781761217_2ca29700e9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9jHP)ValveCoverBolts (1) (1) (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9jHP) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
> 028103534A
> cover cap
>
> N 90132603
> hex. nut with washer
> M6 /
>
> 028103536
> concave washer
>
> 028103533
> sealing washer
>
> 028103532A
> sealing ferrule
>
> 028103531B
> stud / also use:
> M6X12 028 103 534 A
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Been almost a week since my last post - waiting on parts. Then finding out I need more parts - then waiting on more parts. So here is what I got so far:
Finally fixed the odometer in the best way I thought - will have to see how long this lasts
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782710520_8e312fcf8e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqebV7)OdometerFixxWEB (https://flic.kr/p/2oqebV7) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
The cheap looking but supposedly better rear main seal
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782710915_88594c0efb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqec2V)SABOemail (https://flic.kr/p/2oqec2V) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Ahhh the neu 1.9L AAZ head this thing is beautiful
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782711135_ea5de7c781_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqec6H)IMG_0181 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqec6H) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782769483_0b33185ba1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeurH)IMG_0195 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeurH) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782307051_1c1a69b6bf_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc7YK)IMG_0201 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc7YK) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782307321_bd18013a9c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc84p)IMG_0207 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc84p) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782551454_df45b718af_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdnCA)IMG_0224 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdnCA) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Funny my second VW was this Porsche Mint Green color, I want to paint the block this color
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782770458_36560dd76f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeuJw)IMG_0243 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeuJw) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Freshly cleaned engine bay, its great when you can sit in it
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782552189_030fee0052_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdnRg)IMG_9912 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdnRg) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Neu hood ornament
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782771148_24da458f35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeuWq)IMG_0434 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeuWq) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Here is my custom oil filler/checker
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782552654_8095e565fc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdnZh)IMG_0461 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdnZh) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
The neu cap didn't have a hole in it for a dip stick since it was only designed as a filler. And my old cap would not fit the neu filler tube due to slightly diffrent threads. Also I needed a more flexible dipstick that would make the bends needed to reach the oil level.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782771683_7bb63f3b09_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqev6D)IMG_0454 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqev6D) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
So I ended up drilling the centre out of the old cap and then drilling a small hole into the neu one and glued the old piece on to it. O yeah I had to turn down the top of the neu cap to make it flat.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782553224_d5e82a24f5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdoa7)IMG_0451 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdoa7) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782309771_0a51c008e5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc8MD)IMG_0445 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqc8MD) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
I then put bigger o-rings on the custom VR6 dipstick so that it would have a snug fit. You can get these dipsticks from my brothers shop.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782714730_5d4acfe5f7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqedaG)IMG_0472 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqedaG) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782554014_6bbb33728c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdooJ)IMG_0540 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdooJ) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
I should be getting the block back from the shop tomorrow and the injectors any day now.
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IT'S SO SHINY I'M GONNA DIE! ;D ;)
Great progress and pics, keep 'em coming! I love the oil dipstick, very creative.
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When you install that rear seal - REMEMBER
-no lube
-install and let sit over night prior to rotating the crank so it expands and sets to the crank seal surface
Otherwise it will leak
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Is that head from Giles?
Hopefully the parts arrive soon!
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Thanks
First problem has arrived: After torquing down the main caps it wouldn't turn freely so I loosened caps 1 and 2 - turns freely. But when I torque cap 2 it doesn't move freely. Only with all torqued and cap 2 loose does it spin freely. Any ideas? Everything looks good
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The caps in the right places?
Otherwise, pull the crank, measure the hole when #2 is torqued. Measure #2 crank journal. Within spec?
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Yes the caps are in the right place and orientation, will check those measurements tomorrow. Thanks
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For the dipstick, measuring at the block port with the 83+ dispstick/tube style I showed earlier is much more accurate. Measuring at the extreme rear corner of the pan means that any slight variation in levelness causing a significant change in the reading. That's why I recommended going with the later style.
To keep the odo gear in place I have pulled the gear off, put some dimples in the shaft using pliers and then superglued it back in place. I'm afraid that the added screw will shred the gear long term.
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I would have done the 83+ dipstick mod but my funds are very low and I already ordered the new style oil filler. I actually carry a full size level in my van and always check to make sure the van is level when I check the oil.
I found the reason to my crank not turning freely was due to the wrong or un level bolts. The bolts that were in it originally were the fully threaded newer style bolts and the new ones I got for it where the older style half thread. There is a guy down the street that owns a operates a machine shop mostly rebuilding air cooled motor. His shop is amazing and his workmanship world class, so I told him my problem and he said to leave it and he would come down later to check it out.
We put a dial indicator on the crank journal (I may be using the wrong term here) and the crank was spot on. He them said to torque it down and turned it even tho it was jamming just so he could see what kind of mark it would make on the bearing. Sure enough it left a wear mark on the bearing. After a bit of thinking he then questioned the bolts, so we torqued down the original bolts. With the original bolts it spun almost as it should but still had a little deviation at a certain point. So then he suggested using "emery cloth" to clean the inside of the cap. Sure enough after that it was spinning freely.
My concerns are with this little bit of wear on the bearing should I change them? And should I reuse the bolts? I am a do what ever the Bentley says type of person and they say not to re use them. But does it really matter? Thanks guys I really appreciate this forum and all of your input.
Here are some photos of course:
I take it that I am going to need to clean the paint off where the gaskets go?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782792113_a3f05cf8bc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeBaT)IMG_0573 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeBaT) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
The re bore looking nice - as far as I know.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52781785447_48873b416d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9rVz)IMG_0582 (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9rVz) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782792543_c6cbf33a46_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeBii)IMG_0586 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeBii) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Prothe Pistons with Grant Rings - so much fun filing these rings down to spec. ha
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782330156_e5ff635622_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqceR7)IMG_0604 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqceR7) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Its always gotta be something when working on an engine this time it's that damn #2 cap
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782573654_ba50fbc84c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqduem)IMG_0608 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqduem) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Here are the wear marks that it made when turned with the new bolts torqued down.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782330536_de7282472d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqceXE)IMG_0614 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqceXE) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
These are the bolts, the ones that were in it the newer style on the left and the never used before older style on the right that binded up the crank.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782793168_0f3450f3e1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeBu5)IMG_0638 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeBu5) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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No Giles did not want to sell me his cam with the head. So when I found out my cam was no good I decided to order a complete head from here: http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_reviews.php?manufacturers_id=32&products_id=32
But I did get my injectors back from him yesterday :- )
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Gee Rock, if you had only let me know that a Cam was all that held you back on Giles' head I would have offered my used one along w/ my VC. Hopefully getting a complete head from Smokey Eddie soon so i con't need it. Buy ey, that head looks too damn beautiful to pass it up!
I'd clean off some of the paint on the gasket mating surfaces, or at least smooth with finishing sandpaper discs for a smooth surface.
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Is there a definitive answer for replacing the main cap bolts? The Bentley says you don't have to so I assume that is right? Right?
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I have seen at least 2 AAZs that blew apart because bolts weren't replaced that should have been. Like rod out the block blown apart. I wouldn't chance it. Guilianot is one. Although, his might have been rod bolts...
Definitely mains
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=10690.60
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http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=29_74&products_id=1907
I just did this to the TDI this morning. I have been running the car since I bought it with re used mains and rods. I just sent a text to the PO and asked him if he replaced them when checking the clearances. 3 days later he responded with "no" So all morning long I have been at it and finally finished. Those were the best I could find on the internet in the little searches I did.
Point is, it is a one time use bolt and I wouldn't do it. The ones I sent you were reusable older style. If you could massage the main cap and use them I would. If not I would order the stretch ones. That is if the AAZ and ALH use the same, that I am not sure of. I could measure my old bolts later if you want.
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Today I got new stretch main bolts from the dealer. When I torqued them down and did the 1/4 turn the crank was completely locked up. So I decided to put the older style bolts in again, torqued them down to 48 ft lbs. crank spins perfectly. The Bentley says not to do the quarter turn on the older style bolt - so I assume I am ready to move on right?
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Should be able to if the older bolt sequence was followed.
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It does not say anything about a sequence in the Bentley. But I did torque the bolts from the center out just like you would the head bolts.
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I meant the torque...if there is a 22 then 48 kind of sequence. You should be fine. My only thought is 2 people have had mains fail on aaz's on this forum. Both were the #2 IIRC Jimfoo was one of them. Apparently they made a longer bolt that was 80mm? If I do my aaz I am going to have the machinist tap it 15mm more so I can fit the 80mm bolt and line bore it so I feel more comfortable at night.
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Bentley says just to torque to 48 ft. lbs. I did as I always do, tightening down the bolts a little at a time before doing the final torque.
Finally have the pistons in, and have my measurement for piston protrusion. The numbers are on the low side of a 1 notch .0270 being the highest and .0249 lowest which is actually lower then what the Bentley says for a 1 notch.
Also my brother is having a hard time finding a 1 notch for an AAZ he has one come up but it says its for an AHU any difference here?
Could I just put in the 2 notch despite the numbers calling for a 1 notch - I had valve marks on my old pistons and am thinking this wouldn't happen if I used the 2 notch that I have. I have heard as long as I am not in a cold environment it should not have a problem starting.
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Do not use an AHU headgasket, it won't work. Everything will line up but there is no support for the precups.
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I am just going to use the 2 notch unless I can find a 1 notch and have it here on Friday.
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Valve marks will not ever happen if the correct gasket is used provided the engine is timed properly as well. Additionally, using a too-thick gasket will not ensure against piston to valve contact if someone does not time the engine correctly. Using a too thick gasket disturbs the squish (proper turbulence) which is probably not a big deal on an IDI, but also the quench which occurs during the time when the piston crown is closest to the head and transfers a significant amount of heat to the head which is cooled by the engine coolant. That quench time is an important part of cooling the piston. Increasing the distance between the head and piston at TDC by fitting a too thick gasket has a big effect on quench and will mean that your piston crowns will consistently run hotter. Because the piston crown is the part that of the engine that will melt first with combustion temps too high (even if everything else is perfect), IMO it would be wise to give the crown as much help as possible in remaining cool especially in a 4,000 lb vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick.
The reason your piston protrusion is too small is probably because oversize pistons typically move the wristpin bore closer to the crown in anticipation of having the deck resurfaced at the same time as boring. If you don't have the deck surface milled the same distance that the pin is moved to the crown, the protrusion will change. I would pull the rotating assembly and return the block to the machine shop telling them how much to mill off the deck to have the protrusion solidly land right in the middle of the range for the 2-notch gasket.
As an aside, to avoid that predicament when I am rebuilding an engine, I measure the protrusion of the old pistons first. Then I pull the assembly and measure the wrist pin to crown height of the old pistons. I then measure the wrist pin to crown height of the new pistons and do the math necessary to tell the machinist how much to trim the deck while I am having them bore the cylinders. That saves considerable time (and possibly TTY fasteners) and results in the protrusion I want.
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I got a 1 notch from Myke w that is now taking orders from NH or Connecticut.
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Andrew thank you for your amazing knowledge of these motors especially in a Westy. As much as I would love to get the head decked and have it perfect I am running out of money and time.
I haven't heard from Myke W today, anyone else know where I can get a 1 notch for my AAZ?
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Just for clarity, you would surface the block, not the head.
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Myke_w sold the business
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29808.0
You are looking for Nathan_b
I can call the local VW shop around here in the AM if you need. There is a guy from the forum coming up for a visit, he might be willing to ship it to you once he is in the states on Saturday. IM me if you are interested.
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Yes the block is what I meant. I have found a one notch here:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=ahc35ur0jdp3dkadu2slby45&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1283958@JETTA%20TDI&year=1996&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20%26%20Gaskets&gid=5412@Cylinder%20Head%20Gasket
But they list it at 1.45mm where other websites list a one notch at 1.53 I believe the AHU 1 notch is 1.45 so I hope they do not have things mixed up.
Has anyone ever heard of someone melting their pistons from using .04mm too thick of a head gasket?
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That IS A MISTAKE at AutohausAZ.com. For whatever reason the parts database shows the AAZ for '96 and yet the head gaskets shown are for the TDI. They do sell the 2 and 3 notch gaskets, but the WRONG parts are listed if you go by the application engine. If you search by part number the correct gaskets come up, but no 1-notch. For future reference, the AAZ gasket part numbers are 1-notch 028103383BH, 2-notch 028........BJ, 3-notch 028........BK.
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1stvwparts.com shows the 1-notch for about $60. They are a vw dealership parts backdoor site.
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Myke sold his business but told me he can still do parts no problem.
Myke_w sold the business
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29808.0
You are looking for Nathan_b
I can call the local VW shop around here in the AM if you need. There is a guy from the forum coming up for a visit, he might be willing to ship it to you once he is in the states on Saturday. IM me if you are interested.
Myke sold his business but told me he can still do parts no problem.
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Alright thank you everyone for all the help, I think I finally have everything I need. I ended up ordering a 1 notch head gasket from the local VW dealer today it was only $70 plus $20 for next day shipping so I may have it here tomorrow.
Pre fitting the Sabo rear main with no oil to be left over night before rotating thanks for that tip
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782338981_eeb04168ce_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqchtg)IMG_2359 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqchtg) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
TDC pistons are finally in
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782801723_d892b760b7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeE2z)IMG_2383 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeE2z) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782583619_f7f091b81d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdxca)IMG_2235 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdxca) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Would like to paint the block Porsche Mint Green but that will have to wait
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782584094_f1c521c68d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdxkm)IMG_2404 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdxkm) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Who does # 2 work for?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782584354_0b58574b67_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdxpQ)IMG_2196 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqdxpQ) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Flywheel & Clutch install on a mud flap
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782341141_4927bd8728_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqci7v)IMG_2434 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqci7v) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Ahhh finally she is back in the house
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782803858_afcf42cc7f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeEEo)IMG_2461 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeEEo) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
So many things to turn - O yeah my custom oil filler wont work because it hits the A/C pulley.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782804043_e14891de11_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeEHz)IMG_2473 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeEHz) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
Love this first real torque wrench I have used with the oil cooler nut adapter
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782804408_777014b6a6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeEPS)IMG_2502 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqeEPS) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
The boyz getting the tow truck ready to follow me back to FLA hahaa
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The head in the house awaiting manifolds
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Just waiting on the head gasket for tomorrow
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I don't know where you are planning on staying, but even if you stay in Florida it might not be a bad 8.00 to spend for a block heater. I am not sure how difficult it is to put into a van since the engine is completely different position. But if you were to sell it to someone up north a block heater is nice. You wouldn't even have to use it or plug the cord into it, as long as it was there and you don't have to drain the cooling system that would be loads easier for whomever would want it later. Just an idea.
BTW everything looks good.
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Good point, but I think its a little too late to put one in now. Thanks
Well it was no surprise today that the head gasket did not arrive at the stealership. But I did get a hold of a socket for the injectors. I bought a 1 1/16" craftsman deep well from Sears. It fit on two of the injectors but not the other two, but lucky for me Matt has a lathe and we milled out the top part so it would fit. Worked great torqued to 51 ft lbs
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782350591_75596e09d0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqckVr)IMG_2584 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqckVr) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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It isn't too late. You take a punch and knock out one of the freeze plugs in the back. Mine called for the freeze plug behind #1, then you just insert the block heater and turn the screw until it is tight.
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On the vanagon, the freeze plugs are readily always readily accessible. It's very easy to add a block heater. The hardest thing about it is draining and refilling the coolant which should be done every couple years anyway.
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Oh I thought you had to knock the freeze plug out from inside of the block. What about the wiring it was never hooked up and I don't see a wire for it.
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If it is that easy to get to I wouldn't worry about it too much especially if you are staying in warm climates. But if you ever go on vacation in the winter it might be a good thing. The wire would come in the block heater kit and you would have to place it where you wanted. It is simple, the wiring pushes on and it is done.
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I got the head gasket today from VW - man is that thing pretty. They said there was only 1 in the US and 2 in Canada. I should have taken a photo of it but I just wanted to put that thing on.
Today I put on the head and timed everything up using: http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28 very helpful instructions. Tomorrow all I have to do is put the turbo and piping on and crank her up :- )
This is not the gasket I put on - I had to go with the rare 1 notch since I did not get the block deck shaved to meet the 2 notch range. As you can see I was prepared with a 2 and 3 notch.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52781813892_99f40b284b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9Ao1)IMG_3377 (https://flic.kr/p/2oq9Ao1) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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Finished up the van today :- )
Runs a lot better then it did before it broke. I had a problem with the valve cover gasket that was leaking really bad until I realized that I was missing the concave washers for the 3 nuts that fasten the valve cover. I was able to make it work with 5 washers on each one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52782763065_db9cf1902a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oqesx4)IMG_3479 (https://flic.kr/p/2oqesx4) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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Good to see you back on the road! That's a nice looking van, definitely worth the investment.
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Well done mate, has got many more fun miles left in her now!
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Nice job getting it back on the road and documenting the process! What was the total cost? Did it fall between $1700-$2300 on page 1? PM me when you make ur way down to FL (if you pass by CT and NYC). I'd love to get a ride in it. I can show you my 92 Eco which runs on WVO and my 81 Caddy I just picked up.
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Thanks I drove it 250 miles today runs a lot better then when I first got the van. I would say 10 to 20% more power, and the same for lower EGT's. Also my oil pressure goes from 40-80 moving pretty much right with the rpm's (I hope this is a good thing?) Where as before it kind of stayed around 40. One problem that I thought I had fixed by shaving 2mm off the flywheel has not been fixed - and that is after driving the van for a good 30mins I will have to wait 30 mins for the van to cool down before it will start again (starter sounds like the battery is not charged enough, but it reads 100%) . When I got done with the re build I pulled the fuel thru the injection pump and then left the injectors cracked to get the air out. I had to crank it about 6 times before the fuel came out - then I tightened the injectors. Had to crank it six more times to get it started, while doing that at one point the wire going to the starter got really hot (you could smell it).
What are the chances the wire is bad? - Due to a loss of voltage to the starter when the engine it hot after driving for a half an hour or more. Hahaa stupid question I guess I should just change it - thank you all for all the knowledge on making this rebuild happen. If you want to follow me on my eventual driving around the world in my Westy, checkout my website www.RockOcean.com or my FB Blog www.facebook.com/FreeRockOcean
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Hey, great to hear you got it on the road, and even better to hear of your globetrotting plans! I hope the VC I gave you gives you good service. I have respect for the type 2 crowd since I own a bay window myself, and your Vanagon is no exception. Just get that wire taken care of (which I'm pretty sure might be the problem) and you're golden.
Good luck, and be sure to leave a global soot trail! :)
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This is how to find your hot start problem
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=22321.0
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Howdy ya'll
Just wanted to give a final update on this engine rebuild has the engine worn out prematurely at about 110k miles. After the drive from Maine to Florida I tested the compression and got 500 on all cylinders except #4 which was 490. The next year I went back out on the Appalachian Trail as a shuttle driver giving hikers shuttles to and from towns all along the trail from Georgia to Maine. Didn't have a single issue with the van, the complete opposite of the year before with having to change the head gasket, then the radiator, and final rebuilding the engine in this thread. In 2014 I headed out West for the first time ever. I had an upper IP leak and luckily I was only a few hours away from libbydiesel and he swapped out the seal for me in less then an hour. Eventually making it to the Southern Terminus of the PCT I started shuttling hiker again along the Pacific Crest Trail this time. About a month in I started having more IP leaks so I got the IP rebuilt by Brian at Omega Fuel Injection in El Canjon. This guys does amazing work only working on manual IP's. The Walmart parking lot was home for only 3 days as Brian got the IP and rebuilt it in a day and a half. The rest of the summer was trouble free with the van running great all the way thru the mountains up into Canada and back home to Florida albeit starting to have to keep an eye on the oil adding a half quart every 1,200 miles or so.
For 2015 I parked the van for the summer and hiked the Appalachian Trail. Well almost, I ended up getting de-trailed to help a friend document a album he was recording in Scotland. Returning state side I ended up on Nantucket to work for 5 weeks then got back on the trail in Maine and started hiking South. Eventually getting off the trail in mid November at the PA border with only PA and Maryland remaining. I met my current partner while hiking in Maine and we made plans to drive from Florida to Alaska the next summer. The trip started well but the engine started consuming a half quart of oil every 600 miles. By the time we made it up to Alaska it was drinking a half quart every 300 miles and burning it clean not even smoking. It was so bad we opted to take the inside passage ferry down to Bellingham, WA instead of driving. We worked on a farm in Northern California for the Winter and went to India and Nepal for 5 weeks in the Spring. I left the van in Southern California and hit the road to Maine as soon as I got there. I went about 100 miles and it drank a whole quart! I turned around immediately back to where I left the van and torn it down. Immediately you could see a lip about a quarter to a half inch down on cylinder 4. The machine shop said it was so worn the bore would have to be sleeved. Not wanted to go that route I started looking for a used engine. Lucky for me Quality German Auto Parts was only 30 minutes down the road. So I watched the 15 or so videos of all the AAZ's running and narrowed it down to the one I thought was best. 2 hours later I was installing my new used engine that I got for 1,800 bucks, and 2 days later I was on my way to Maine. I made it to Maine with no issues in 4 days.
The van ran great for a few years and me and my partner both ended up settling down for the first time ever in our live at 39 in Southwest Montana. This engine also started using oil just like the one before that I rebuilt. Since we were settled down we didn't use the van as much now we were no longer living on the road. I ran the van like this for a few years. Finally this summer I decided it was time for another AAZ rebuild. I Really wanted to go AHU but didn't pull the trigger on it and really wish I did. Sure enough this engine too was worn at the top of cylinder 4. It was not nearly as bad as the previous engine I rebuilt and was able to be re-bored using the +.5mm oversized pistons. I will add some photos and more info on this rebuild at a later date.
Finally getting engine back from the machine shop after a dreadful 6 month wait it was ready to fire up! Since it was 20°f outside I had the block and oil pan heater plugged in to warm things up while priming and cranking the new engine. With a full oil filter I primed the oil pump with a drill rotating it clockwise (i hope this is the correct direction?) til I had oil coming out of the turbo feed line. Once I had that I put it all back together leaving the glow plug relay, and IP power disconnected. I cranked it for about 10 seconds and the low pressure oil light went out. I pulled fuel thru the IP, left the injector lines cracked at the injectors and powered the IP. After about 4 ten second cranks I had fuel at the injectors and tightened them up and plugged in the glow plug relay. Another 10 second crank and she fired right up! After purging the coolant system I took it for a test drive and immediately noticed the oil pressure was barely moving past 25psi it was idling at 20psi as it usually does. But it should be rising with the rpm's hitting 50-60psi before shifting into the next gear. Any idea of why this might be happening? The oil pump was brand new and I ran it in the engine about a month before the rebuild and it worked fine. The intermediate shaft bearings where not changed as the machinist said there was no sign of wear and this obviously was not a problem before the rebuild so it shouldn't be after.
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thanks for the updates. sorry i dont have any ideas about your oil pressure.
whats up with you and cylinder 4? seems odd that they always do the same thing even with a completely new engine.
good on your for never giving up though.
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I figured it out, had to add another half quart of oil. My dip stick tube must have changed a quarter inch when I reinstalled it. I added a half quart and the oil pressure returned to normal.
I really think that the catch can setup I had installed on both engines was the cause for both times the #4 cylinder being worn out. I had it so it drained back into the block where the factory oil return line goes since on my van the oil return line went into the oil pan instead. I don't know how it could have done that but it's the only thing that makes sense.
I do have another problem with this latest rebuild tho! It will puff smoke for over 3 minutes when it's only 30°f outside?!?
It was bored out for .50mm oversized pistons. With rings, bearings, and everything else replaced. It also has a brand new turbo, rebuilt injection pump, and the injectors were tested by Giles. The head was also fully rebuilt. There are no air bubbles going into the IP or coming out of it. My glow plugs are pimped via Vince Waldon's guide and confirmed working. IP timing is set to 1.00mm (I live at 6700ft) and the engine timing is dead on. I am at a loss on what could be wrong?
This being my second time rebuilding an AAZ I am quite certain I did everything correct while assembling the engine. The only things I can think of maybe causing this are:
- 6 month old fuel?
- Rings not seated yet?
- Machine shop bored too much?
- New valve seals are bad?
- PCV is bad?
If the block and oil heater are plugged in for a few hours it does not smoke like this. But even if it's 50°f it will still smoke for like 20 seconds on start up.
You can see in the video it doesn't start to clear up until about the 2:30 minute mark. The second video is when it's at full operating temp.
Any thoughts on what this might be?
https://youtu.be/xdnCT9Ic4Lk
https://youtu.be/mUkdZ-C2ZXo
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What happens when you push or pull the cold start lever when it is smoking on cold startup?
Does it smoke on hot startups too?
Could be retarded timing.
Utube comments are shut off. That happens when it's set as not for kids.
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I thought it was well known that if your timing is advanced especially to 1.00mm the cold start would be rendered useless since it only advances the timing by .05mm or so.
I have never had the cold start lever on this IP and in the past when the engine was in good shape it hardly smoked at all on a cold start.
It has the electric cold start with the wires cut off. Does anyone know what I would need to hook it back up? I would imagine the actuator and then the wire in a switch.
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Not sure how the electric cold start works.
The cold start lever only works below 2000 RPM.
After that the internal pump pressure takes over the timing.
Turning the pump to an advanced setting at idle won't override the cold start lever.
It will still manually push the timing piston when you pull it.
I consider the cold start lever to be very helpful at finding the best timing for my engine.
For instance if you pulled the cold start lever or powered the electric cold start and it ran smoother you would instantly know it was the timing being retarded.
When the timing is set right, the cold start lever will slow the RPM when cranking cold.
Many people will crank with it off to get RPMs up, then pull it when it begins to fire.
From the video, I do think yours seems a bit retarded.
A dial gauge doesn't do much other than let you know right where it's set.
Tuning it requires setting it to different timing and see how it works.
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Hello,
Did you ever resolve anything with this engine?
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Sorry not yet. With winter here I probably won't do a compression test until spring. If that turns out good then I will starting figuring out how to get my cold start hooked back up.
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Sounds like thermal expansion issue...new rings can take 5000+miles to fully seat on these...not sure how far you've gone.
Did you use new or used oil pump for the build.
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I have only done just under 1,000 miles thus far. The oil pump is pretty much brand new I ran it for a couple thousand miles before pulling the engine for the rebuild.
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Sounds like it might need more time to settle in.
For oil pressure...have you checked intermediate shaft clearances? From what I remember it gets oil early in the path and too large clearances will reduce overall pressure?
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That is what I am hoping for. I changed the oil and it looked good just a tiny bit of metal swarf on the drain plug magnet.
The oil pressure issue was resolved a while ago. I found that I did not seat the dipstick tube completely and I also replaced the boot up top so my stick was sitting about a quarter inch higher then it did. Once I added another half quart of oil my pressure returned to were it should be.