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Parts for Sale/Wanted / Re: NOS 1.6TD mechanical long block
« Last post by oblique on Today at 10:10:08 pm »Few more spares.
edit: good used.
edit: good used.
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Recent Posts
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MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Finally mounted my ECOdiesel turbo...
« Last post by oblique on Today at 09:22:32 pm »After a long time searching I found a rebuilt turbocharger with nothing but bench miles, basically fresh. part no. 068145704D
After even more searching, I finally tracked down someone in the UK parting out a few GTDs and got some drain lines shipped over.
1. the 1.6 intake elbow does not work...i managed to get it on but its kinked and does not sit well at all. going to try and use an AAZ elbow and AAZ k14 rubber hose.
2. the usual 1.6 intake heat shields do not work...had to grind down the lower one to clear a bolt and the top one wouldnt fit at all.
2. the turbo inlet is much smaller than the usual k24/T3...i had to build up the difference with duct tape...will need to find an intake pipe and apparently airbox as well is different.
4. supply line is different...the k14 sits about 1" or 1.5" lower than k24..i bent to fit but did not like it at all.
5. the turbo seems to have a slight rotation over k24/t3...i have TT downpipe so it has some give but just barely.
anyone have any spares? i usually try to be thorough..right now i feel like driving a gingerbread house..
After even more searching, I finally tracked down someone in the UK parting out a few GTDs and got some drain lines shipped over.
1. the 1.6 intake elbow does not work...i managed to get it on but its kinked and does not sit well at all. going to try and use an AAZ elbow and AAZ k14 rubber hose.
2. the usual 1.6 intake heat shields do not work...had to grind down the lower one to clear a bolt and the top one wouldnt fit at all.
2. the turbo inlet is much smaller than the usual k24/T3...i had to build up the difference with duct tape...will need to find an intake pipe and apparently airbox as well is different.
4. supply line is different...the k14 sits about 1" or 1.5" lower than k24..i bent to fit but did not like it at all.
5. the turbo seems to have a slight rotation over k24/t3...i have TT downpipe so it has some give but just barely.
anyone have any spares? i usually try to be thorough..right now i feel like driving a gingerbread house..
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MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: Found the build slip behind the rear seat today
« Last post by oblique on Today at 08:54:48 pm »yup, its a Prairie car...a lot of the plastics were skunked but she's all there.
here's what i managed to decode:
K8B = Notchback
A8D = Luxury equipment
M9A = 4-cyl. turbo diesel engine 1.6 L/51 kW according to Canadian regulations base engine is T6A
G0B = 5-speed manual transmission (long ratio for China)
X9B = National sales program Canada
L0L = Left-hand drive vehicle
F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment
B0E = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Canada, various parts
E0A = No special edition
0A2 = 4 doors
S2K = Special price
S5H = Region
3H0 = Without backrest release for front seats
N1J = Leather/fabric seat coverings
Q1A = Standard front seats
4Q1 = Flame retardent materials
3J7 = Articulated and height-adjustable headrests for front seats
3QK = 3-point seat belts with height adjustment and US label, front
EA = code not found :-(
1X0 = Front wheel drive
3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats
4A0 = Without seat heater
3NL = 2 separate seats, electr. adjustable
3Q2 = Rear headrests articulated and height-adjustable
EA = code not found :-(
where are my electronically adjustable seats!!
here's what i managed to decode:
K8B = Notchback
A8D = Luxury equipment
M9A = 4-cyl. turbo diesel engine 1.6 L/51 kW according to Canadian regulations base engine is T6A
G0B = 5-speed manual transmission (long ratio for China)
X9B = National sales program Canada
L0L = Left-hand drive vehicle
F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment
B0E = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Canada, various parts
E0A = No special edition
0A2 = 4 doors
S2K = Special price
S5H = Region
3H0 = Without backrest release for front seats
N1J = Leather/fabric seat coverings
Q1A = Standard front seats
4Q1 = Flame retardent materials
3J7 = Articulated and height-adjustable headrests for front seats
3QK = 3-point seat belts with height adjustment and US label, front
EA = code not found :-(
1X0 = Front wheel drive
3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats
4A0 = Without seat heater
3NL = 2 separate seats, electr. adjustable
3Q2 = Rear headrests articulated and height-adjustable
EA = code not found :-(
where are my electronically adjustable seats!!
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MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: Found the build slip behind the rear seat today
« Last post by fatmobile on Today at 03:41:31 am » Especially hard to find with no mold or rot, in that good of shape.
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MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: Found the build slip behind the rear seat today
« Last post by Dennis Froelich on April 17, 2024, 11:22:59 am »That's a rarity to find anymore. Very cool!!
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MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Found the build slip behind the rear seat today
« Last post by oblique on April 16, 2024, 03:00:25 pm »1990 factory TD w AC PS PM cruise tilt...the rest I don't know.
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TDI - VE Pump TDI Engines / Re: TDI Swap on 020 Gearbox
« Last post by RabbitJockey on April 15, 2024, 08:41:19 am »1. yeah you can remove them individually no big deal
2. i dont think an impact will work for a compression test but i guess its work a shot. I would pull the head, but thats up to you. it will allow you really inspect the condition of the valves, bores, and rods. also it would allow you to make a perfect tdc mark on your flywheel.
3&4 sounds like you have the right idea.
2. i dont think an impact will work for a compression test but i guess its work a shot. I would pull the head, but thats up to you. it will allow you really inspect the condition of the valves, bores, and rods. also it would allow you to make a perfect tdc mark on your flywheel.
3&4 sounds like you have the right idea.
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TDI - VE Pump TDI Engines / Re: TDI Swap on 020 Gearbox
« Last post by chi1337 on April 14, 2024, 03:07:36 pm »Thanks, will do. Want to do some checkups (for the engine running without oil, since this is the biggest risk as I see); turbo shaft seems fine.
1. Can I remove 1 camshaft cap, so I can inspect the cam scoring? I read somewhere, long time ago, that this would lead to unbalanced pressure on the camshaft, and possibly snap the camshaft
2. Any tests people suggest me to do while engine is on engine stand ? I'll do the compression test through the glowplug holes
3. What kind of seals should I replace; I’ll do the: rear main seal, front main seal, valve cover, new oil pan (steel + alu) with new RTV gasket, oil filter housing gasket. Don’t want the engine leaking oil
4. Other stuff I need to do? Ofcourse will do timingbelt, waterpump (I got one with alu impeller)
===
Long story
===
I recently bought an ALH engine in “unknown” condition. The engine turns over and gives heavy resistance (although not as much as my 1.6D) in the compression stroke, so that’s good. I have looked around and made a plan to test it;
1. Remove glowplugs & boroscope internals (make sure no scoring on walls, crosshatching is there)
2. Do compression test, using impact on the crank
- I heard some people say it’s bad, but I’ll remove 3 out of 4 glowplugs), the crankshaft bolt can go to 200nm and my impact 150nm max
- Compression test is done while engine is on engine stand, so cold. Should give slightly lower results (as per my experience on the 1.6D), but:
-- Even when cold, the compression result should be above wear limit
-- Difference between cylinders should be 50psi or lower
3. Leakdown test (if compression test is bad)
4. Check cam caps
5. Remove oil from engine, check for shavings
6. Flip over engine, replace oilpan
1. Can I remove 1 camshaft cap, so I can inspect the cam scoring? I read somewhere, long time ago, that this would lead to unbalanced pressure on the camshaft, and possibly snap the camshaft
2. Any tests people suggest me to do while engine is on engine stand ? I'll do the compression test through the glowplug holes
3. What kind of seals should I replace; I’ll do the: rear main seal, front main seal, valve cover, new oil pan (steel + alu) with new RTV gasket, oil filter housing gasket. Don’t want the engine leaking oil
4. Other stuff I need to do? Ofcourse will do timingbelt, waterpump (I got one with alu impeller)
===
Long story
===
I recently bought an ALH engine in “unknown” condition. The engine turns over and gives heavy resistance (although not as much as my 1.6D) in the compression stroke, so that’s good. I have looked around and made a plan to test it;
1. Remove glowplugs & boroscope internals (make sure no scoring on walls, crosshatching is there)
2. Do compression test, using impact on the crank
- I heard some people say it’s bad, but I’ll remove 3 out of 4 glowplugs), the crankshaft bolt can go to 200nm and my impact 150nm max
- Compression test is done while engine is on engine stand, so cold. Should give slightly lower results (as per my experience on the 1.6D), but:
-- Even when cold, the compression result should be above wear limit
-- Difference between cylinders should be 50psi or lower
3. Leakdown test (if compression test is bad)
4. Check cam caps
5. Remove oil from engine, check for shavings
6. Flip over engine, replace oilpan
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Parts for Sale/Wanted / Re: NOS 1.6TD mechanical long block
« Last post by ORCoaster on April 11, 2024, 09:45:30 pm »Wow, quite the hoard there fella. At one time I thought I needed to replace the vacuum pump on my pickup. I just needed a better check valve on it.
Good luck finding homes for all of that stuff.
Good luck finding homes for all of that stuff.
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Parts for Sale/Wanted / Re: NOS 1.6TD mechanical long block
« Last post by oblique on April 11, 2024, 10:38:25 am »Also have a really nice spare mech head I found recently. Those are not cracks @injector bores...look like casting or tool marks...
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