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TDI - VE Pump TDI Engines / Re: TDI Swap on 020 Gearbox
« Last post by chi1337 on April 14, 2024, 03:07:36 pm »Thanks, will do. Want to do some checkups (for the engine running without oil, since this is the biggest risk as I see); turbo shaft seems fine.
1. Can I remove 1 camshaft cap, so I can inspect the cam scoring? I read somewhere, long time ago, that this would lead to unbalanced pressure on the camshaft, and possibly snap the camshaft
2. Any tests people suggest me to do while engine is on engine stand ? I'll do the compression test through the glowplug holes
3. What kind of seals should I replace; I’ll do the: rear main seal, front main seal, valve cover, new oil pan (steel + alu) with new RTV gasket, oil filter housing gasket. Don’t want the engine leaking oil
4. Other stuff I need to do? Ofcourse will do timingbelt, waterpump (I got one with alu impeller)
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Long story
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I recently bought an ALH engine in “unknown” condition. The engine turns over and gives heavy resistance (although not as much as my 1.6D) in the compression stroke, so that’s good. I have looked around and made a plan to test it;
1. Remove glowplugs & boroscope internals (make sure no scoring on walls, crosshatching is there)
2. Do compression test, using impact on the crank
- I heard some people say it’s bad, but I’ll remove 3 out of 4 glowplugs), the crankshaft bolt can go to 200nm and my impact 150nm max
- Compression test is done while engine is on engine stand, so cold. Should give slightly lower results (as per my experience on the 1.6D), but:
-- Even when cold, the compression result should be above wear limit
-- Difference between cylinders should be 50psi or lower
3. Leakdown test (if compression test is bad)
4. Check cam caps
5. Remove oil from engine, check for shavings
6. Flip over engine, replace oilpan
1. Can I remove 1 camshaft cap, so I can inspect the cam scoring? I read somewhere, long time ago, that this would lead to unbalanced pressure on the camshaft, and possibly snap the camshaft
2. Any tests people suggest me to do while engine is on engine stand ? I'll do the compression test through the glowplug holes
3. What kind of seals should I replace; I’ll do the: rear main seal, front main seal, valve cover, new oil pan (steel + alu) with new RTV gasket, oil filter housing gasket. Don’t want the engine leaking oil
4. Other stuff I need to do? Ofcourse will do timingbelt, waterpump (I got one with alu impeller)
===
Long story
===
I recently bought an ALH engine in “unknown” condition. The engine turns over and gives heavy resistance (although not as much as my 1.6D) in the compression stroke, so that’s good. I have looked around and made a plan to test it;
1. Remove glowplugs & boroscope internals (make sure no scoring on walls, crosshatching is there)
2. Do compression test, using impact on the crank
- I heard some people say it’s bad, but I’ll remove 3 out of 4 glowplugs), the crankshaft bolt can go to 200nm and my impact 150nm max
- Compression test is done while engine is on engine stand, so cold. Should give slightly lower results (as per my experience on the 1.6D), but:
-- Even when cold, the compression result should be above wear limit
-- Difference between cylinders should be 50psi or lower
3. Leakdown test (if compression test is bad)
4. Check cam caps
5. Remove oil from engine, check for shavings
6. Flip over engine, replace oilpan
