VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions => Topic started by: vanbcguy on February 28, 2013, 04:28:58 pm
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Ok, here I go!! This build is going to take some time as I'm not in any particular rush nor am I particularly flush with cash - I have a 1-month old baby here at home and I figured I needed a project that let me have some "me" time but keeps me around the house.
Anyhow, some of you who've been on here for a long time have probably seen Jezebel Jetta... I bought her nearly 5 years ago now, she came to me with a 1.6TD engine in her bay instead of the AAZ I thought I was buying. I didn't know enough about VW diesels at the time to spot the differences. My how things have changed... :) In the time that I've owned her I've cleaned up most of the crap problems that she came with - I put new coil springs in all 4 corners, brakes have been done, tires were done a few years ago, she's got a 2 1/2" exhaust system from the back end of the stock AAZ downpipe back, Bilstein HD shocks and a monster AWIC... Fixed the cruise control and the sunroof... I replaced the carpets, put down soundproofing and swapped in an interior from another Jetta that we have. So I've put quite a bit of time and effort in to her!! She's got about 330,000km on the odometer now, she had 260,000 when I got her.
I know my 1.6TD is getting a bit long in the tooth - it runs fantastically and pulls great but I figured I should either decide to buy a different car, or start working on a new drivetrain for her. Seems I'm attached to Jezebel, so I decided to start working on a new drivetrain.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/860294_10151490494371427_1313485111_o.jpg)
I picked up an AHU a few weeks ago that I'm just starting to strip down. It came fairly complete, though the wiring harness is a bit hacked up (it was cut off at the firewall by someone a little too eager to get the engine out of the car). My plans!!
- Sell off the ECU, K03, EGR stuff, manifolds
- Get everything stripped and off to the machine shop
- Find someone to do some porting on my head
- Get all my internals together
- Get the engine built up - targeting about 150-200HP
- Get an M-TDI pump
- Get an 02A from a Mk III TDI
- Get my K24 rebuilt (or find another turbo suitable for 20-25 PSI)
- Do the swap!!
I don't have the head pulled yet so I'm holding off buying too many parts - if it turns out the block is crap or whatever then I'll be starting from zero again. The only thing I've bought so far is a PD150 intake with EGR delete pipe. But I have got my work space more or less set up, which is a great start!
Hopefully this weekend the head will be coming off and then the fun stuff starts!
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DAMN! Nice, I wish I went through my AHU before I swapped it in.. I could have too as it sat in my garage for the better part of 2 years while I decided what to do. I had MORE than enough time to entirely do it over.. gahh I was stupid. Next time though ;) she'll be done proper.
You have a solid plan, and the ambition to get it done right. I suggest libbydiesel (Andrew) as the one to build you your M-TDI pump, they are zero mile brand new units with the ability to get some SERIOUS power.
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DAMN! Nice, I wish I went through my AHU before I swapped it in.. I could have too as it sat in my garage for the better part of 2 years while I decided what to do. I had MORE than enough time to entirely do it over.. gahh I was stupid. Next time though ;) she'll be done proper.
You have a solid plan, and the ambition to get it done right. I suggest libbydiesel (Andrew) as the one to build you your M-TDI pump, they are zero mile brand new units with the ability to get some SERIOUS power.
Yep, talked to Andrew about a pump already! :)
I'm super excited to get cracking on this project. I should be DEBT FREE by about May which means I'll have a lot more money for toys - it's going to be pretty trippy not having to sign away part of my paycheque to the bank every month.
I contacted KermaTDI yesterday to see what their recommendations were for nozzles, cam and clutch for my stated power goals:
- Bosio Race 520's with Stage 1 Flow Calibrated injectors
- Southbend Stage 3 Endurance clutch
- Colt Stage 2 Cam
I was kind of surprised by their clutch recommendation - seems pretty beefy. I did tell them I will be hauling a trailer fairly regularly though.
I'm also sniffing around for a turbo - ideally I really don't want to take Jezzie out of service until I have everything ready to drop in. I MIGHT spring for a new turbo if I can find something really tasty. I've been looking at the Garrett GT2056 (the wastegate version) - its map seems to fit my needs pretty well at least on the compressor side. I'm mainly comparing it to a K24 so a bit of low end lag compared to a K03 won't bother me in the slightest since I've never even driven my car with a K03 on it.
If I go that way I need a non-VW manifold too, but it seems like there are quite a few T25/T3 style manifolds available for 8V engines. I'm just concerned about firewall clearance mainly.
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Sounds like your doing about the same as I with your engine. I have pd 150 intake and Libby pump. still undecided on injectors but I just hit up kerma for some advice. I'm using a k14 off an aaz but plan on the same amount of boost as you. I've never used a k24 but I have the small k14 on my mk2 and I like it. Andrew suggested the k14 over anything except of course a vnt but thats a bit much for me at this point. For clutch I used a tdi pressure plate and a vr6 disc both by Sachs.
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After hunting around to the point where my eyes are basically bleeding I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with a GT2056 for my turbo. It is sized in between the K14 and the K24 but it is quite a bit more efficient (its peak compressor efficiency is 78% compared to about 70% for the K24) and it seems to be sized pretty well for the TDI.
I thought about going the VNT route but it seems like a compressor this big will be in the surge zone if it spools too fast. The GT2056V from the Jeep Liberty is a somewhat common turbo to run on a TDI - it uses the same compressor. Looking at the maps I don't see that there is really any room to spool the GT20 compressor up in to the 20PSI zone until you are getting closer to 3K, so having "tons" of boost off of idle without destroying the turbo just won't happen with a compressor this big, VNT or not. I've set a target of about 200WHP and it is going to take a decently large compressor to get there.
Anyhow I'm quite used to driving my 1.6TD with its K24. On this M-TDI I'll have more displacement and a bit smaller turbo than the K24 so I'm expecting it will be a noticeable improvement lag-wise over my current drivetrain.
Next step? Finding a workable exhaust manifold...
Right now I am leaning towards this one from SPA Turbo... I'd need a T3-T25 adapter but those appear to be somewhat commonly availableEDIT: Actually this already has a T25 flange - sweet!!:
(http://www.designengineering.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/TMW06SIDE1.jpg)
http://www.designengineering.com/files/pdfs/spa/090345.pdf
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Forgot to mention, I also spoke with South Bend about their clutch recommendation. They confirmed they would recommend the Stage III Endurance. A big part of that is because I tow with the trailer fairly regularly and Jon believes the Endurance clutch will last a lot longer for me. It is rated at about 425 ft-lbs of torque I believe, so I have something to shoot for!!
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...aaaaand I've found a transmission! :D :D Bought a CTN 02A from one of our members here. That should go along with the rest of this build quite nicely!!
Things I need to decide on yet:
- Bottom end: Keep it stock, or start getting in to more interesting rods?
- Pistons: I'm going to be starting with new ones for sure, do I stick with AHU pistons, go with ALH pistons, or.... ?
I have my engine about half way torn down now. Head is off but I haven't opened up the bottom end yet (I don't have an engine stand at the moment so it is still sitting on the oil pan). The bores look halfway decent but there does seem to be a bit more piston clearance than I'd expect. I haven't measured it though. I don't really plan on re-using the existing pistons.
Next step will be finding a decent machine shop. I've been asking around but haven't gotten any good local recommendations yet. I know they are out there - there are TONS of TDIs around here. I just want to find a shop that knows what a TDI is! I'm also considering getting the head ported - not sure if I really need to or not at the 200HP level but that's why I need to find an expert... :)
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I highly recomend doing the 02j mk4 shifter swap.
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I highly recomend doing the 02j mk4 shifter swap.
Tell me more? What is the benefit of the 02J shifter versus the 02A shifter?
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The biggest benefit is the ends on the O2J are able to be replaced where the O2A you have to buy the entire cable set and I think it is NLA. If it is still available they were 400.00 per set.
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it feels way better. like lucas said replaceable ends. 42 draft design also makes nice billet inserts for the ends. Also 40 dollar audi tt short shift kit. Super easy to fab into tunnel in place of 02a box. drill 2 holes 2 longer bolts and some shimming and its in. Also mk4 shifter boxes use a ball and socket for the lever with a replaceable insert that can be replaced in the car. you can get all the stuff for it for a few hundred bucks. I just did it on my b3 wagon mtdi swap though it hasn't seen the road yet I can tell its way worth it.
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Good to know... I do have an 02A shift box and cables coming but I'll keep my eyes open for 02J parts. Very good to know about the parts being NLA for the 02A - that would piss me right off if I needed to service them in a few years.
For my own reference as well as anyone else who comes along, here's the best way I found to do the 02J shifter conversion on a Mk III:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5820143-DIY-02A-gt-02J-Shifter-conversation-for-VR6-SLC-Cars
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My PD150 intake + race pipe showed up in the mail this morning... ;D ;D ;D
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I will live vicariously through you Bryn, you are doing what I want to lol. No budget and my only car.. pretty much cannot happen.. at least not all at once anyway haha.
ps. how do you pronounce Bryn? Like Brian? Or?
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My PD150 intake + race pipe showed up in the mail this morning... ;D ;D ;D
thumbsup!! I got one too!
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My PD150 intake + race pipe showed up in the mail this morning... ;D ;D ;D
thumbsup!! I got one too!
Took a look in my racepipe - while it looks great (stainless is sexy!) there's a fair amount of fine metal particles coating the inside. Definitely want to clean the hell out of it before it gets anywhere near my engine!!
I guess it has been on a lathe during manufacture as it has some nice chamfered edges and a good band for the IC piping to grab on to.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8107/8557973008_9b45abf1f3_z.jpg)
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Trying to decide if I need a lift pump or not...
I saw some folks doing the PD in-tank pump. Great for that 'all stock' feel and probably the perfect solution for Mk4+. I did find someone doing it on a Mk3 though and the fuel gauge gets totally screwed up. Not a fan of that.
Also did some poking around and found there are some commonly available small lift pumps for the Duramax guys that are under $50, like the Airtex series. The E3526 seems perfect - max 35GPH open flow, rated at around 7PSI. Nice and small, easy to find anywhere diesel pickups are found (ie anywhere outside of a city). If I decide I need one I'm probably going that way.
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I would install one regardless.
No prime time, no worries of being stranded by loosing prime, saves battery and starter in case of lost prime ;)...
The benefit might not be for POWAH, but convenience.
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More parts sold that I'm not using, more incoming stuff! Received an 02A, a set of the larger vented brakes with spindles and a starter today. Happy happy!
As if April 26th I'll be completely debt free which should start making more stuff happen here.
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As if April 26th I'll be completely debt free which should start making more stuff happen here.
I have no debt.. but I don't make enough to do what I want either.. haha. congrats man :)
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Well one little snag...
My wife and I had a bit different understanding around how frequently the oil was being checked in her Jetta. I drove it yesterday for the first time in months - oil pressure beeper kept going off and the lifters were clattering like crazy. Had to add 2L to even get it to show on the dipstick. Grrr... This is her first car so I should have been on it more myself. Valve train is quiet now but it's still throwing oil pressure alarms and the oil smells like molten lead.
Sooo.... Guess we need to find another beater for her first. That's going to delay my build a bit. I'm going to put some thick oil in to see if it'll take care of the low pressure enough to keep the alarm off but that's pretty much all she wrote or Jezzie's sister. The car needs way too much other stuff to bother fixing it.
Gargamel!
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oof thats a tough one my girlfriend does same stuff drives it 5-10k past oil changes frequently. i secretly want her mazda to kick it though.
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The fact that the buzzer was going off is a bit hard to take. Anyway, I check the oil in my wife's care. ;)
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The fact that the buzzer was going off is a bit hard to take. Anyway, I check the oil in my wife's car. ;)
Yeah - I had been out of town all week too. It was "just" going off when she was turning corners and she didn't think it was a big deal so she decided to wait till I got back. Bah. At least it was only a $1200 car to begin with.
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Hookay, so after a whirlwind of sketchy Craigslist folks and a whole lotta test driving of vehicles I got rid of the bad oil pressure Jetta and my rusty old pickup truck, plus emptied my bank account so I could end up with this for my wife (who will now be checking her oil!!)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/249036_10151637994371427_852955482_n.jpg)
OK yeah it's for me too, but Jezebel ain't going anywhere. The new Jetta is a 1.8T - filling up with premium at $1.61/L when diesel is at $1.36/L is definitely... noticeable. But she doesn't put that many miles on really.
Anyhow, I will be done paying for that adventure in July, at which point this build will get going again. In the meantime, I've got:
- my PD150 intake
- the actual engine
- a CTN 02A
- the proper Mk3 TDI brake setup
I MIGHT be able to get some more parts going a bit sooner - I have a side gig that has suddenly given me a bunch more hours. I promise this build really is going to happen!!
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Have you decided on the turbo and manifold yet? I want to get bigger turbo for my mtdi and am looking for ideas. I want top mount for sure.
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I have a manifold designed for 2L 8V that's top mount I found. I'm flirting with a VNT solution at the moment so I haven't committed yet to anything in specific, but if I go with the GT2056 I think it's a Kinetic manifold... Need to check my bookmarks when I'm at the computer. That combo would still need a T3 to T25 adapter but that is verging on common.
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I have a manifold designed for 2L 8V that's top mount I found. I'm flirting with a VNT solution at the moment so I haven't committed yet to anything in specific, but if I go with the GT2056 I think it's a Kinetic manifold... Need to check my bookmarks when I'm at the computer. That combo would still need a T3 to T25 adapter but that is verging on common.
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talk to andrew he's working on something that may help you out with vnt..standalone controller for mtdi vnt.
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Yup, I am working on a standalone electronic VNT control. I'm not sure yet of timing or price.
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Yup, I am working on a standalone electronic VNT control. I'm not sure yet of timing or price.
Funny, I'm not sure about timing or price yet either!
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Very tempting... Bug me next month!
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After lots of thought I'm going to go VNT using an Arduino controller. Ordered the Arduino, a Fastscale pressure sensor and some GM style N75 solenoids, still need to sort out what I'm going to do for a TPS.
I'll post my experiences with the controller as I build it - I'm an IT guy by day so really this is right up my alley.
Oh and the Wagon is now fully paid for so all free cash will be going towards the build now. Woohoo!
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rover pumps have a tps built in to the throttle plate.
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id talk to libby though if you got a pump from him he caould probably make one when he builds the pump. would love to hear more on this controller.
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id talk to libby though if you got a pump from him he caould probably make one when he builds the pump. would love to hear more on this controller.
Yeah I was planning on that!
The controller is pretty cool. The Arduino for those who aren't familiar is a simple microcontroller designed for hobbyists and the education market. They have a number of analog inputs and digital inputs/outputs. The digital pins can be used for PWM (pulse width modulation) control of "things" - the factory VW ECU controls the N75 solenoid using PWM. Oh and they are CHEAP.
The controller I'll be building will have a solenoid for the turbo (and actually should be adaptable to really any turbo), plus also one for the LDA. It will be using my otherwise unused #3 injector for the RPM signal and then a pressure sensor to measure boost, and a yet-to-be-determined TPS. The controller has a map of boost : RPM and boost : throttle position, much like a factory ECU would.
My goal is to have a setup that can completely fail electronically with no ill effects other than a loss of power - the car would still be completely driveable just like any other mechanical diesel, only it wouldn't be able to close the vanes on the turbo. I'm trying to use as many commonly available parts as possible too (like the GM boost control solenoids).
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id talk to libby though if you got a pump from him he caould probably make one when he builds the pump. would love to hear more on this controller.
Yeah I was planning on that!
The controller is pretty cool. The Arduino for those who aren't familiar is a simple microcontroller designed for hobbyists and the education market. They have a number of analog inputs and digital inputs/outputs. The digital pins can be used for PWM (pulse width modulation) control of "things" - the factory VW ECU controls the N75 solenoid using PWM. Oh and they are CHEAP.
The controller I'll be building will have a solenoid for the turbo (and actually should be adaptable to really any turbo), plus also one for the LDA. It will be using my otherwise unused #3 injector for the RPM signal and then a pressure sensor to measure boost, and a yet-to-be-determined TPS. The controller has a map of boost : RPM and boost : throttle position, much like a factory ECU would.
My goal is to have a setup that can completely fail electronically with no ill effects other than a loss of power - the car would still be completely driveable just like any other mechanical diesel, only it wouldn't be able to close the vanes on the turbo. I'm trying to use as many commonly available parts as possible too (like the GM boost control solenoids).
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Brilliant ideas! This sounds like something i would very interested in! What vnt are you going to use?
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Lord Verminaard and I were looking into this a few years ago. He has a couple audrino chips and knowledge. He never is on here anymore but I could contact him. I have a parts list saved in my old browser of internet links to parts. I wasn't going for ease of finding replacements I was going for best part as most of the pieces are Bosch. If needed I could post all the links, but here is the one to adrino.
http://dmn.kuulalaakeri.org/vnt-lda/
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Yeah the GM solenoids are cheap (under $30) and I found that tons of folks with other turbo cars have been switching to them as they perform better than the various other stock pieces. Google "GM 3-port boost solenoid" and you'll find them all over the place.
That link is the source code / base design I plan on using. :-)
It is actually so crazy simple once I got my head around it. I had a light bulb moment when I looked at the schematic and realized it is just a way simplified version of my pinball machine! Once I got that then it was all over. The fact I can get a complete VNT that bolts on without a ton of work helps too.
Right now I'm planning on a GTB1756VK. There's a guy over on the tdiclub forums selling a package that has the turbo, manifold, oil lines and the turbo converted to a vacuum can already. And it clears the factory Mk3 engine mounts.
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The electronic vane control I have been working on will be functionally quite similar to the one linked. I will be writing my own code with things arranged a little differently, tho.
My goal is to have a setup that can completely fail electronically with no ill effects other than a loss of power - the car would still be completely driveable just like any other mechanical diesel, only it wouldn't be able to close the vanes on the turbo
I have the exact same priorities. I love electronics and wiring, I just don't want the operation of my vehicle to depend on that added layer of complexity and additional components. Using electronic management of non-vital components with a fail to safety is truly an excellent way to go. I wish VW/Bosch had kept the accelerator cable and mechanical pump and added the electronic on-the-fly timing control to it with a failure mode that was just normal mechanical pump operation.
Right now I'm planning on a GTB1756VK. There's a guy over on the tdiclub forums selling a package that has the turbo, manifold, oil lines and the turbo converted to a vacuum can already. And it clears the factory Mk3 engine mounts.
Running an well intercooled 20psi or so with fuel to match with that turbo and vanes properly controlled will be a very enjoyable level of performance.
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Hey libby, curious if you have found a TPS solution yet?
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Well, yes, but I will reserve further comment until I have done more testing.
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"N75" valves showed today. These are GM boost control solenoids used on a variety of turbo GM vehicles over the years. ACDelco part number is 214-474 and they are available for under $30. The pigtails I got are technically for GM windshield washer pumps but they are identical to the solenoid connectors.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3695/9130871864_2484fa07e3_c.jpg)
They can be used as either "normally open" or "normally closed" solenoids so you can really use them for any old thing you might want. I'll be using one for the turbo and one for the LDA. In addition to having the Arduino regulate the LDA I am contemplating using my Auber EGT gauge to cut off the LDA if EGTs exceed a safe value. I need to look over the Auber documentation again though as I don't want it to end up "fluttering" right on the edge of the limit, can't recall if I can set a band or not.
**EDIT: Yup, you can set a pull in and a pull out variable... Though the other thought I had was using the gauge as a turbo timer to keep the engine running till EGTs dropped below 300 ° which I can't do if I use it for LDA control...
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/9128742137_f690717a83.jpg)
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Pretty sure it is set to give out a 5v signal when the alarm is activated.
I dig where you are going, mind if I copy you to the T? haha. Really cool ideas you got Bryn, all the best with it.
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Pretty sure it is set to give out a 5v signal when the alarm is activated.
I dig where you are going, mind if I copy you to the T? haha. Really cool ideas you got Bryn, all the best with it.
Absolutely, copy away... I'm just assembling ideas that are already out there on the Interwebz!
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It is true they are out there, but who has the patience to look and put it all together? ;).
Sooooo much more fun than a muscle car, and for a fraction of the cost eh? lol!
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It is true they are out there, but who has the patience to look and put it all together? ;).
Sooooo much more fun than a muscle car, and for a fraction of the cost eh? lol!
I stare at a computer all day for work so spending some time reading about this stuff comes naturally... Perfect for long calls where I don't have much to do but I can't really be productive in the meantime.
And yeah definitely a fraction of the cost though as the ideas keep coming that "fraction" keeps getting bigger and bigger. At least I know the final result will be a vehicle that's uber cheap to drive (and with amazingly cheap insurance!!)
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OK, on the TPS side...
Right now the best option I seem to have is to try using one of these:
(http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Finfo%2FAirtex%2F5S5068_2.jpg&imagekey=945702-3&width=450)
It's a TPS off an early TPI GM (you can find 'em by searching for TPS111) so again fairly cheap and fairly commonly available. I need to do some sorting around how I'd make a bracket for it but I think I could do something similar to the early Dodge (Cummins) VE pumps where they mount the bracket to the LDA. This TPS is spring-loaded internally so it just needs to be mounted so the pump accelerator arm pushes against it. The tough part is sorting whether the range of motion is appropriate or not, I'm not entirely sure how I'd figure that out without having both the pump and the TPS in hand. As long as the range of motion is greater than or equal to the pump arm it should work fine.
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You didn't ask but I will give some part #s that I was gathering when Lord V and I were going to do this.
bosch part #0280122001 TPS expensive version
http://www.google.com/search?q=bosch+throttle+position+sensor&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1#hl=en&ds=pr&sugexp=ldymls&pq=bosch%20throttle%20position%20sensor&xhr=t&q=bosch+part+%230280122001&cp=0&pf=p&sclient=psy&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&tbm=shop&source=hp&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=bosch+part+%230280122001&pbx=1&fp=1&biw=1259&bih=848&bs=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&cad=b&sei=M97IUcHzH8rkyAHk1YHACw
Honeywell 1GT101DC - hall sender
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=92F3009&CMP=KNC-GPLA&mckv
TPS cheaper versions
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1137765&parttype=5136&partkey=1982190&a=FRc1137765k1982190-3000841
MAP
http://cache.freescale.com/files/sensors/doc/data_sheet/MPXH6250A.pdf?fsrch=1&sr=12
There are also some dead links I have to very fast servos that handle decent heat. I thought that servo would have been better to control the vanes, but I don't know
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Another issue I see with servos is the amount of pull vs. expense vs. speed of movement. Consider the vac diaphragm is approx 3" in diameter x 14 psi. 3^2 x pi x 14lbs/square inch = 395 lbs of force. Once you do the force conversion on the servos available, the ones that can generate/maintain that kind of force are very expensive or very slow or both. Less than that force, you will have increased occurrence of vanes sticking.
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Yep. That is kind of why Lord V and I gave up. I figured by the time we got everything invested it would be more than 5x the cost of a manual controller copied from you. Also the ones I looked at the ones that were reasonable couldn't handle under hood temps consistently. I really hope that you guys come up with something. I would like to have something for the MTDI jeep and its 2256.
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While the boost control solenoid "duty cycle" method of regulating vacuum does seem a bit strange to me, it is nearly universal across the whole auto industry. I figure all those engineers must have decided it was the best available at least at the time. Some of the newer turbos use a servo + position sensor which allows more direct control (plus the computer is aware of the actual setting, taking care of issues around adjustment of VNT actuator arms and things). There is no reason an Arduino couldn't control one of those really but those turbos tend to be a bit more expensive. Given that we've got a good vacuum supply on our engines already and the solenoids are so simple I'm definitely going that route.
I did some messing around looking at my IDI pump - I think the TPS I linked to above will probably work just fine. They're under $30 at Autozone too which is just perfect. The early TPI one I was originally thinking of goes the wrong way, this one (TPS111) will go the same direction as the pump arm. These are SUPER common - lots of Chevy/GMC trucks from 1986 through 1991 use them.
The other TPS sensors listed above need some sort of interface between the throttle arm and the sensor itself which seems like a pain to sort. There is a factory piece for the VE Cummins engines but it seems to be very expensive and hard to find, not to mention the bracket to hold the TPS itself is apparently made out of unobtanium. I figured the little arm would be much easier to deal with - just measure the same distance from the centerline of the pump arm and then attach a little angle bracket. I think I can prototype a bracket to hold the sensor itself pretty easily out of sheetmetal too.
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My Arduino showed up today!
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9203259516_477e00cb8f_c.jpg)
Little bag on the right is the prototyping board. I'm getting really excited about this controller!!
Now if only Whitbread over on TDIClub would respond to his PMs...... Then I could order my turbo!
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MAP sensor arrived today...
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5350/9216401697_3e470e766d_c.jpg)
This one is a 5.5 bar - it is totally overkill for what I am doing but it was available as an engineering sample, so....
In the end I will only be using 1/3 of its range. It should still have about the same resolution as the stock VW system given that the Arduino has a 10-bit ADC versus the 8-bit that VW appears to use in their ECUs so I think it will probably be fine though a 3-bar would be a more suitable choice. Who knows, maybe I will end up using it to measure drive pressure or something - again still overkill. I have plenty of analog inputs to work with! From my math and the datasheet I think it will measure to the nearest 0.09PSI which should be totally fine for my needs.
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Well this happened:
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q79/s720x720/1234924_10151891788951427_654377594_n.jpg)
...that's gear oil with chunks of metal coming from my transmission... 020 self machining syndrome or something similar...
So now I'm very much actively working on this again!!!
Block is stripped down, still need to pull the pistons / crank but otherwise she's ready for the machine shop...
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q75/s720x720/1379626_10151911897956427_1287222686_n.jpg)
The bores look good - you can't see from the photos really but you can still see some of the factory crosshatching at least at the top of the bore. I PROBABLY could have run it without a rebuild, but where's the fun in that??
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/q77/s720x720/555902_10151911931581427_85890237_n.jpg)
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Dragged Jezebel back from Delta where she's been sitting since the transmission blew. I had a HECK of a time getting her up on to the dolly, and then even more trouble getting her off again. There's gear oil everywhere underneath, the splash shield off the bottom of the transmission has disappeared so I'm pretty sure there's a gobload of gear oil in the clutch. It can't hold the engine anymore - I had to take her up to 4K RPM and basically dump it to get her off the dolly. Freaky.
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1379564_10151920865646427_362748906_n.jpg)
I believe I've sorted out my turbo and manifold stuff. Apparently a 2004-2006 Passat 2.0 TDI exhaust manifold fits the MkIII chassis perfectly (it's essentially the same as the AFN manifold except it has EGR provisions). Darkside Developments have GTB1756VK turbos converted to vacuum operation, perfect for what I need.
Big problem I've got is the injection pump. Libby isn't making them anymore, Westyventures will be "in a couple of months" but he's in the middle of redoing his shop right now. Giles is looking for WAAAAYYYY too much money and all he's building is "stock equivalent" - to get a 12mm pump head he wants another $1k on top of his fee. There's the Advanced Automation LT 2.8 pump available for a bit more money - haven't heard anything about their reputation yet. Their pumps ship limited to 4K RPM plus have the "low smoke" governor I hear isn't so hot, so I'd be in to modifications right from day one.
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Id go with a rover pump for now. Or contact dieselmeken he seems reasonable.
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Get a Land Rover 200TDI or 300TDI pump, use your 1Z/AHU rollers and cam-plate as well as delivery valves. You will be all set for power then.
I found to get a nice steady idle I had to use a 1.6TD idle spring on the governor assembly. I could not get a nice idle with the two weak spring LR setup.
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Oh yeah, for that as well you will need the larger AAZ pump mount.. or bore out your 1Z/AHU one. The Rovers utilize the ALH size snout of VE pump. Possibly could use an ALH mount if you want to use the twisting pulley style timing too.
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ALH mount is completely different. It won't even bolt to the 1Z/AHU.
I would not use the AAZ bracket as it is missing the extra roller. Best would be to use the 1Z/AHU bracket and have it machined for the larger snout.
I have the Rover pump on my ALH Automatic Vanagon and it works well. I pulled it to bits before installing it and had to replace the camplate/rollers as they were pitted and replaced the governor shaft/gear/flyweight assembly as it was oddly worn. For the camplate I used a Cummins 4BT. I did not have any difficulty with the idle and kept the stock Rover spring.
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TY Andrew. Always overfilling with knowledge you are. (yoda I am)
I don't know why, and never looked in to it, but the idle springs caused a hunting idle for me. Changed it out and never had an issue since.
How does the 4BT cam plate measure up to the large lift of the AAZ and 1Z/AHU cam plates?
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I don't remember measurements offhand, but the humps are larger than either AAZ or AHU and less abrupt on the leading edge than the TDI camplate.
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I have the Rover pump on my ALH Automatic Vanagon and it works well. I pulled it to bits before installing it and had to replace the camplate/rollers as they were pitted and replaced the governor shaft/gear/flyweight assembly as it was oddly worn. For the camplate I used a Cummins 4BT. I did not have any difficulty with the idle and kept the stock Rover spring.
Where are you getting replacement parts, or are these from a cache that you have?
Since you had the pump apart, which seal kit did you use? I'm thinking DGK121, because of the larger mainshaft seal, but Jeremy thinks he used DGK126. Thanks.
-Todd
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Good call on Dieselmeken. I've emailed him, hopefully he can help with a pump.
I'm pretty sure I could get something together that "works" on my own but I'm really hoping for a pump built by someone with more experience than me. There are enough variables and challenges in this build already!
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk now Free (http://'http://tapatalk.com/m?id=10')
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I have the Rover pump on my ALH Automatic Vanagon and it works well. I pulled it to bits before installing it and had to replace the camplate/rollers as they were pitted and replaced the governor shaft/gear/flyweight assembly as it was oddly worn. For the camplate I used a Cummins 4BT. I did not have any difficulty with the idle and kept the stock Rover spring.
Where are you getting replacement parts, or are these from a cache that you have?
Since you had the pump apart, which seal kit did you use? I'm thinking DGK121, because of the larger mainshaft seal, but Jeremy thinks he used DGK126. Thanks.
-Todd
I have a decent stash of pump parts and used parts from there.
The DGK126 is for non-turbo pumps equipped w/ the cold start lever. The DGK121 has the LDA seals and the large shaft seal but is missing the cold start o-rings. If you are building an mTDI pump then you should not fit a cold start lever so the DGK121 is more appropriate.
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I'll be resealing a Landy pump.... DGK 121, still? Hmmmm.... I never took notice if it does or does not have a cold start lever.
And what are people doing with the #3 injector? Running it with the harness unplugged or sourcing a standard TDI injector? Thanks.
-Todd
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My plan is to leave the injector there and unplugged. Otherwise I'd need a new injector line that doesn't otherwise exist. I was going to use it as an RPM sensor but then I realized the crank sensor is a better choice in my case.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk now Free (http://'http://tapatalk.com/m?id=10')
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You have to bend the line to fit if you use a standard injector on mine it is just not plugged in to anything.
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My plan is to leave the injector there and unplugged. Otherwise I'd need a new injector line that doesn't otherwise exist. I was going to use it as an RPM sensor but then I realized the crank sensor is a better choice in my case.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk now Free (http://'http://tapatalk.com/m?id=10')
Why not use the alt w terminal? 90amp has it 120amp doesn't.
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I'll be using the W terminal for the tach, but my VNT is going to be controlled by a stand alone controller and I need an RPM signal for that too. I am using an arduino - it is more than capable of running the turbo but the high frequency of the W terminal signal will cause it to have to do a lot more work to count the pulses than it would if I use the crank sensor. Besides, if I don't use the crank sensor then I need to make a blockoff plate for it - might as well just use it since it's there.
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I'll be resealing a Landy pump.... DGK 121, still? Hmmmm.... I never took notice if it does or does not have a cold start lever.
And what are people doing with the #3 injector? Running it with the harness unplugged or sourcing a standard TDI injector? Thanks.
-Todd
Yup mixed up my part numbers. DGK 121.
I have had my third injector unplugged for 2 years now.
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when i did my mk3 golf tdi e to Mtdi i just left every thing pluged in exc the injection pump, RPM still works from ECU , riped out the center out of the maf as i lost 40lb/t at 1300 rpm , and moded the air box , heater light still flases but will pop it out to , would like to add a stand alone VNT controler at some point with a vnt 20 , so looking forward on how you get on
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Yeah in my case my car started out life as an AAZ. If I wanted to turn it in to an electronic TDI I'd be in for just as much work as someone putting one in to a Mk2, which is a large part of why I decided to go mechanical. For instance my cluster is AAZ-specific (has a W-fed tachometer) and my car has a very limited chassis ECU that runs the glowplugs including the famous "activate glow plugs when driver's door is opened/closed" feature but doesn't really do much else. :)
I'm pretty confident the VNT controller is going to work out well. I can see it will need some tuning for sure; I am looking in to options for data logging.
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Welp, after poking around a bunch I decided to go with a Land Rover 300TDI injection pump which I managed to find in the US through roverparts.com... Price was decent, PLUS it should come with a TPS on it already that was used by the Land Rover EGR system. I should be able to adapt that for my VNT controller provided it is actually attached.
Land Rover part number is ERR4046, translates to Bosch number 0 460 414 099.
From what I have found this one should work with my AHU pulley. I will have to machine the mounting bracket hole larger but I have a machinist I know who should be able to take care of that. From what I've heard the advance and governor should be suitable for my use. In the end I decided I wanted to go with an 11mm pump as I had some concerns about higher RPM use with the 12mm pump plus it didn't really seem that I would need a 12mm pump for my power goals.
Anyhow now I get to nervously wait for it to ship - always hard dropping $1300 on something that you *HOPE* will work. I really wanted to find a "new" pump with some sort of warranty on it that I wouldn't have to open up right away, this should fit the bill.
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Yes the ahu pulley will work :). But irrc the key way sits 10* one way or the other from vw's shaft. So timing is by hand on the pump as a lock wont fit.
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Yes the ahu pulley will work :). But irrc the key way sits 10* one way or the other from vw's shaft. So timing is by hand on the pump as a lock wont fit.
Yup, you are correct, here's a perfect example showing how it will be:
http://switchamotor.blogspot.se/2010/08/pump-position-after-tweaking.html
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1YSYxoIZ1Wo/TGARRADI3DI/AAAAAAAAAg4/hba-_DIq0Hg/s320/20100728193-792079.jpg)
Pretty sure I can live with that - will make getting the belt lined up initially a bit more of a pain but I should be able to work with it.
I suppose I could probably get my machinist to cut a new woodruff key slot in to the pulley too but I don't know FOR SURE what the difference in measurement is.
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I'd recommend getting an ALH sprocket and hub. I just installed the hub so there was a little bit of tension from starting up the camplate ramps on the correct cylinder and it all worked fine from there. Timing adjustment with the 2-part sprocket setup is way easier. Otherwise you will need to slot the mounting holes.
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I'd recommend getting an ALH sprocket and hub. I just installed the hub so there was a little bit of tension from starting up the camplate ramps on the correct cylinder and it all worked fine from there. Timing adjustment with the 2-part sprocket setup is way easier. Otherwise you will need to slot the mounting holes.
Good call. I'll keep my eye out for a set.
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1YSYxoIZ1Wo/TGARRADI3DI/AAAAAAAAAg4/hba-_DIq0Hg/s320/20100728193-792079.jpg)
Pretty sure I can live with that - will make getting the belt lined up initially a bit more of a pain but I should be able to work with it.
I suppose I could probably get my machinist to cut a new woodruff key slot in to the pulley too but I don't know FOR SURE what the difference in measurement is.
Instead of cutting a new woodruff key way, wouldn't it be easier to have a new lock pin hole drilled in the bracket?
-Todd
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Even easier is to just jump the sprocket a couple teeth or use the ALH hub/sprocket combo.
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I just do mine by hand, when i set belt timing I already have my gauge in the pump.
I roll over till I see it just starting to ramp on the cam plate, and then set the belt there. With the pump in the middle of its throw, no issue to dial it in to wherever you need it set for your desire.
I wish I went with the ALH style, Still might. I would love to be able to tune my timing without having to loosen the fuel lines off haha.
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Even easier is to just jump the sprocket a couple teeth or use the ALH hub/sprocket combo.
It's tough finding someone willing to sell the hub. I found a pulley, but that was the easy part.
-Todd
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Best bet on finding the hub is to get a junk pump, remove the hub, sell the junk pump.
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I THINK I found an ALH pulley & hub. The guy was going to send me a shipping quote today but hasn't yet, hopefully he doesn't disappear. :)
I put a deposit down on a turbo too... a rebuilt/rebalanced GTB1756VK. It should be available next week.
So that's most of the complicated stuff sorted out... Turbo / Injection pump / head studs / limited slip diff / misc other parts are all on their way here.
I still haven't hauled the engine over to the machine shop - we're just in the process of rearranging the whole house as the time has come to get our 8-month old OUT of our bedroom and in to his own room. That has resulted in me moving out of my office (I work from home), my wife switching to our former spare bedroom as her office (she works from home too) and me moving my office in to her old office. Whirlwind of stuff but not having a baby in the bedroom any more is WELL worth it!!!!
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Im a little unclear on the rover pump sprocket setup do you take off the hub that is the stock rover hub and press on the alh hub or is it keyed?
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You need to remove the rover hub and then install the VW hub onto the rover pump. Neither hub is keyed to the pump shaft. There is a keyway in the shaft, tho, so getting the hub set for #1 is not hard. In order to remove the rover hub, I just got a longer 13mm bolt and ran it into one of the sprocket mounting holes in the hub and aligned the other end to push on the solid area just to the side of where the pin goes.
Here's some more details from another thread:
The Rover pump is a very good pump to start with. It is a better match to the ALH than it is to the AHU as the snout is the larger ALH style. I recently installed one on an ALH and it worked well. On the AHU you would need to enlarge the bore of the pump bracket. The LR pump also uses a two part sprocket similar to the ALH and so has the pump mounted solidly instead of the slotted holes and rotation of the pump body for timing. Because of this, one would need to either use the ALH hub and sprocket or slot the three mounting holes of the injection pump. I used the ALH hub and sprocket. I needed to trim a little off the top of the pump snout where the timing pin goes as the ends of the bolts holding the two parts of the sprocket together would hit the pump case. In order to use the timing pin method, one would have to add a bushing to the timing pin hole and go through a fair bit of effort to get the hub set correctly. I didn't think it was worth it so I just set the hub so the pin could be used for the rough timing for belt installation. The Land Rover delivery valves are also the long version rather than the short version that the TDIs use. Because of this you would either need to swap in a set of short delivery valves or bend the metal lines to fit the longer delivery valves. I've done both and either is a viable option. The small mounting plate at the distributor head is also not correct and so you would need to either modify it or replace it. I used a 1.6 plate but it might have needed a couple m6 holes drilled, I don't recall. The accelerator lever setup is a little odd and the angles aren't great. I welded a small piece onto mine. All said and done the Land Rover pump is a very good option. I also went through mine before installing and needed to replace the camplate, governor shaft and governor assembly with flyweights as those parts were damaged.
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I just do mine by hand, when i set belt timing I already have my gauge in the pump.
I roll over till I see it just starting to ramp on the cam plate, and then set the belt there. With the pump in the middle of its throw, no issue to dial it in to wherever you need it set for your desire.
I wish I went with the ALH style, Still might. I would love to be able to tune my timing without having to loosen the fuel lines off haha.
i have one but i don't use my pump lock. its much easier by hand then u can kind of add some pretension between the pump and crank that way when you tighten the tensioner nothing is throw off time. id just put a dab of white paint on the back side of the pulley where ever tdc is. you don't have to be dead on with the paint either since the pump gets fine tuned later.
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Yeah as I'm thinking about how much awesomer this setup will be I'm already excited to set my timing. Dealing with the injector lines is such a pain when timing my 1.6...
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New goodies!!
(https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1392082_10151945337031427_1078272646_n.jpg)
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You need to remove the rover hub and then install the VW hub onto the rover pump. Neither hub is keyed to the pump shaft. There is a keyway in the shaft, tho, so getting the hub set for #1 is not hard.
When I pulled the hub of my Landy pump (with a puller), I noticed that if I put the hub back on the mainshaft and turned gently (like a safe cracker), the hub always fell back into its original position. I'm guessing the mainshaft is harder than the hub, and the key way made a minute indentation on the inner bore of the hub.
What are the chances that the ALH hub on the Landy pump will do the same and be in the correct position for the timing pin?
Ooh, nice goodies. Do the later TDIs not come with a windage tray? Is that a stock or larger oil cooler? Never even crossed my mind to look into a shim kit. I've run several kits on 020s and liked them.
-Todd
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Stock sized cooler supposedly. It does seem like it is slightly larger than the OE one but I haven't actually put them side by side.
That's a full on LSD... It's always wet around here and tire spin was a fairly regular occurrence for me with the 1.6. Figured since I'm sending the 02A in for a rebuild anyhow I might as well do it right!
Windage tray was available through ECS - stock didn't have one on the AHU.
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Nom nom nom nom nom.....
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1400414_10151952876681427_73665441_o.jpg)
Found a good price on a rebuilt GTB1756VK with warranty. Should be shipping out this week!!
Also the LSD is just too pretty to only have a picture of the box......
(https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/945228_10151948203826427_50364772_n.jpg)
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Ah, I totally missed the size perspective of the diff box. I've used several Quaifes in the past and the Peloquins work the same, from what I've read. I'm temped to pull a 02A apart. it looks more simple than an 020.
-Todd
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Yeah everything I read said the Quaife and the Pelloquin were basically identical in terms of longevity and performance. What it came down to was the Pelloquin included the bolt kit already versus buying it separately for the Quaife. Final cost was about $50 cheaper.
The other BIG thing was that Pelloquin identified that the CTN 02A has an 02J style differential. The CTN (which is what I'm using) only came in a few years and only behind TDIs, apparently the axle flanges attach 02J style, so most 02A LSD's won't fit. Just the fact that Pelloquin was aware of that and mentioned it on their site made me more willing to go that route.
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Add the fact that the diff bearings are included and there's a lifetime warranty on it, only sweetens the deal. The warranty is transferable and no questions asked.
Quaife has a limited warranty and when I thought I had an issue with one, they wanted me to ship it back to England. Peloquin is located in the USA, and although not your home country, I would still imagine cheaper to ship.
-Todd
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OK, let's talk connecting rods...
I'm PROBABLY going to get new ASV pistons (they have the oil cooling gallery in the piston which is a good thing to have with higher HP).... Next up is connecting rods.
There's basically 3 options:
- Keep my stock rods (they all appear to be fine), possibly get them resized by the machine shop or at least measured out
- Go for the ICE Tuscan rods (About $600)
- Go for the Rosten rods (about $900) and have to get my IM shaft clearanced
I've seen folks running around the same HP as I'm looking at on stock bottom ends, but there's also been more than a few AAZs around here with holes punched in the side of the block, and the AAZ uses the same rods as the AHU. I don't think we ever really conclusively figured out whether the issue was rod bolts or the rods themselves, either way that makes me nervous.
So the question is... do I spend the extra $600 on the ICE rods, they come with new ARP rod bolts already so that part is taken care of, or do I spend money getting my OEM rods checked out, then buy new bolts... In the end I'm not sure I'm really saving all that much?
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MOAR GOODIEEEZZZ!!!!!!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1391738_10151955105201427_297626940_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1375649_10151955105291427_256844297_n.jpg)
Nomnomnomnom.... Put my meter on the TPS too - realized I never even looked up whether it was a true TPS or just a part throttle switch or something like that. Thankfully it is a proper TPS, goes from 1Kohm to 2Kohm in a nice linear progression.
This is officially the single most expensive car part I have ever purchased. My poor LSD didn't even get to hold the record for a week!
Thought... I'm planning on using my stand alone VNT controller to handle the LDA as well. Looks like it would be pretty simple to convert the LDA to vacuum operation rather than pressure, I could just swap the vent fitting from the bottom of the LDA to the top. I've got a second N75-type valve for it already, so why not just drive it off my vacuum pump?
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I wouldn't. A well-tuned mechanical LDA works extremely well as is. I would not want to complicate it's function by making it depend on the whole electronic subsystem. I suppose there might be a slight gain from tuning the LDA to less-than-optimal fueling and then use your N75 combined with an EGT feedback loop to bump the fueling up to optimal. That way, with failure of the system, your vanes would default to open and your LDA would default to a slightly under-fueled mechanical control. I don't think I'd go to the bother, tho, personally.
BTW, nice pump.
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Thanks!! Can't wait to hear it run...
My thought was more that I will be adjusting the boost through software so it sort of makes sense to be doing the fuel enrichment through software as well. In the event of an electronics failure it'd be in "limp mode" with the vanes fully open and no fuel enrichment. Not fun to drive but still solidly reliable...
If I do it with electronic control I basically don't have to touch the LDA settings (preserving the warranty on my pump)... But yeah I mean I've played with the LDA on my 1.6 for the last 5 years so I'm totally comfortable keeping it mechanical.
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The rods were not the cause of the block failures it was the mains. I cannot tell but I think the 65mm long mains were too short and the later aaz had 90mm mains. What has happened is the mains let go and let the block window. I think the tonytdtruck had the 90mm mains but I am not for sure on that, but his did not window either.
Also I do not know if the aaz has the same exact rods as the AHU. Same size but I do not know if they changed anything or not in the metallurgy. I have also found better pricing on the rods than what you have as I think you should be able to get the ones you were looking for for under 600. IMHO if you are shelling out the coin go for the x beams. I think they are around 1100.00 but I don't see the H beams being a huge upgrade to a well done stock rod. A slight upgrade yes but if you are not going for mad power I would say the stock would be fine. Many have done lots of power on a stock bottom with these.
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Yeah I'm unfortunately at the point where I'm having to do stuff on credit, so some savings where possible are desperately needed. Still I'm a firm believer in "do it right the first time"... And putting a hole in the side of the block just puts me back at the beginning again, so I'm pretty willing to spend a little to save a lot if you get what I mean.
I'm really on the fence though. ASV pistons sound like a great way to go - stock bore but with oil cooling galleries. They're apparently a bit shorter than the stock pistons though (not a lot, just a little). Apparently the IE rods are slightly longer, so if you use the two in combination everything is perfect.
I'm going to do the pistons either way I think. It's more "do I upgrade the rods" or stick with the stock ones. $1100 for the x-beams is out of reach, I'm in pretty deep already. I figure I'd probably be in about $200 for the stockers by the time I got them reconditioned and bought new hardware so really it's not a "$0 or $600" question so much as it is a "$200 or $600" question. And a rod through the side of the block would cost a lot more than $400.
I guess in writing this I've answered my own question. IE Tuscan rods it is... Haven't managed to find any better than $569 yet though.
These are the ones in case anyone else is looking: http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3024
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Another day, another $1200+ parts order :-/
Rods + a whole ton of small parts are on their way! Amazing how much all those little things can nickel and dime their way up to hundreds of dollars... $80 for an alternator pulley, $30 for a PCV vent hose, $20 for a valve cover gasket, etc etc etc....
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My turbo is actually here now... :)
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1394213_10151962700966427_391453166_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/944275_10151962700906427_1222486719_n.jpg)
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What turbo is that?
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Nvm, missed it on the last page. Curious to see how it works out.
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Nvm, missed it on the last page. Curious to see how it works out.
You and me both!!
Yup, GTB1756VK....
Dropped my block / crank / head at the machine shop yesterday afternoon. They're going to measure / clean / check it all and give me a shout, thinking I'm going to have them build the short block.
They actually had another TDI block just delivered by someone else when I was dropping mine off - this definitely isn't the first one they've done. :-)
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So I had an idea the other day to integrate into a standalone control adding a circuit of sorts to use the vacuum on the cruise system to bump the idle when the engine is cold say raise it up to 1200 rpm then when the engine is at 120f it cuts off. I'm no electrical wiz so I don't know what it would take but seemed like a cool idea.
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Hmm on a mk2 you could definitely do that.... Wouldn't be hard at all really!
The cruise system on the Mk3 is a bit different. The vacuum actuator is up in the dash connected to the pedal itself. There is a separate electric vacuum pump in between the inner and outer fenders, the cruise control module commands it. So it would be a bit trickier...
If you did go that route I'd definitely maintain the brake / clutch vacuum dump valves that the factory cruise system has for safety reasons. Though that might kind of defeat the purpose since you'd only be able to control idle with the car in neutral and no foot on the brake. Would be fine for warmup though.
As soon as the controller can cause the engine to accelerate when you may not want or expect things get much more safety sensitive.
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ALH timing pulley with hub... :)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/r270/1385282_10151971337676427_188800881_n.jpg)
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Machine shop has checked everything out...
- Crank is absolutely perfect, still at factory spec and cleaned up 100%
- Head is good, no cracks, needs valve guides (duh)
- Block is good, no cracks, bores worn to about 50% of wear tolerance, going to go for the first oversize (.5mm over)
Pistons and rods should be here today/tomorrow, bought a set of ASV pistons. Decided I'm going to have the shop do the bottom end - while I'd get a lot of personal satisfaction from doing it myself I will feel more comfortable having them do it.
Dug out the transmission I bought back at the beginning of the year - looks like there are some parts missing from the shift tower. I had been waffling on whether or not to use the 02A stuff or if I should go straight to the 02J version, decided to go for 02J stuff rather than try and source parts for the 02A tower. Ordered a Polo shift box housing so I can swap the 02J parts in while still fitting my Mk3 properly. Here's the link to those if anyone is contemplating doing the same:
http://www.europeanperformanceproducts.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p11274_02M-and-02J-Transmission-Shifter-Conversion-Kit.html
That means I've got an 02A shift box and cables spare if anyone needs them for anything...
I think I'm past the half way point for money spending now thankfully. I got put in to an 'acting' manager position at work for the next 3 months which comes with some extra $$$$ so that will help big time.
Biggest ticket remaining items will be injectors and clutch. Having a hard time finding big enough nozzles!
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Ha, as soon as I post FedEx shows up...
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1395166_10151979978831427_2105493960_n.jpg)
Insanely fast shipping from Boraparts. I ordered these YESTERDAY and they're on my table here in Canada today...
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Nothing but good news from my machine shop - they're nearly done and they're on budget. Woohoo!!
Now the transmission shop on the other hand... Not sounding so good. My "good used" transmission is sounding pretty roasted. All synchros shot, 5th gear shot, input bearings shot. Going to be expensive!
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Omg... thats brutal news.
"Good used" sketchy pickings. Lol
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Omg... thats brutal news.
"Good used" sketchy pickings. Lol
Yeah overall not really that impressed. But I bought the thing over 6 months ago so not really much recourse. It probably drove ok in whatever it came out of but it seems like it probably was half low on fluid and it had never been changed. Really though, what do I do right? Start over with another transmission? I'm already in the purchase price + shop time on this one, if I throw it away and start over I'll already be in the hole. Might as well get 'er done.
Still a lot better than the 020 that's in Jezzie right now - it has fried synchros and a giant hole in the diff casing.
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It will be nice to have it rebuilt w/ the lsd to boot!!
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Yeah I'll have darn near a brand new transmission when this is done... All new bearings, all new seals, new 2nd gear synchro hub, all new synchro rings and probably a good used 5th gear from another 02A. Oh and yeah the LSD. This bloody transmission will probably have me for over $3k though by the time it's all done and dusted, and that's NOT including the clutch / hydraulics, that's still to come.
BUT I'll have something that I can actually rely on with a warranty!!
I made the mistake of totalling up everything I've spent so far. Don't. Even. Ask. :P
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Well some good news on the transmission front... The shop decided it'd be easier for everyone involved to just sell me a rebuilt transmission rather than trying to fix the one I have. Basically they only thing they're reusing is my transmission case and the LSD I bought. Price comes down by about $500 as the parts cost is a lot less - works for me!! Very glad that I'm working with a nice honest shop who is actually looking out for me.
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Nice!!
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Nice!!
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Machine shop called, my engine is ready for pickup!! I had them build the bottom end - figured by the time I bought the tools required I'd be up at the same point as just paying them to do it, plus they are giving me a warranty on their work. No brainer...
Now to try and find someone to come with me and pick her up!!
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An AHU/1Z bottom end is not overly heavy. Without a head on it, I haven't felt the need for another person.
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An AHU/1Z bottom end is not overly heavy. Without a head on it, I haven't felt the need for another person.
I screwed my back carrying it up my driveway and in to my dad's Tahoe when I took it in to the shop. Still have a niggling little pain around my spine from that. Not going to chance it again!!
EDIT: Went out to the car to measure a couple of things. Remembered why I call her Jezebel. There was about 2 gallons of water on the floor in front of the driver's seat (she's parked nose down right now - my driveway is steep). GARGAMEL.
Wet vac'd it all out and I've got the engine idling (the old 1.6) with the heat cranked. Bah.
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No, not that heavy.. I've lifted quite a few..I've even man handled entire engines..
Lift with legs, no back. Don't push yourself though if you have a pre existing injury.
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She's home!!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1450082_10152005633151427_1673651480_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1456521_10152005633236427_686294594_n.jpg)
I haven't shot any photos of the head yet, but it's gorgeous. The shop did a wonderful job on everything, I'm super stoked.
Dropped my pump bracket, back of my timing cover and my ALH pulley off at a different machine shop today (this one does custom machine work versus engine work). I'm having him open up the pump bracket and the back of the timing cover to fit the Rover pump, and having him mill off the shoulder on the ALH pulley so it will fit inside the AHU timing cover. Awesome little machine shop - the guy has a ton of equipment packed in to this tiny little place you would never know was there otherwise - he has a big lathe that must be 10-15 feet long. Very cool. Should have taken him my IM shaft to have it cleaned up too! Might still do that actually....
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Awesome build so far, I plan on getting to building my ahu this winter in a similar fashion. What are the plans for machining the intermediate shaft? Would you just have it turned a bit to lighten the rotating mass a bit?
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Get I'm shaft balanced I hear it makes a big difference in engine vib. Supposedly a reason why the alh is much less shaky at idle no I'm shaft.
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Yeah I don't know what VW was thinking with the IM shafts - they seriously look like a tree trunk spinning around they are so wonky.
Don't know that I will get it actually "balanced" as it obviously isn't even slightly now. But definitely could do with a pass in a lathe.
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Do the AHUs have the cam lobe on the IM shafts, or did they do away with that?
-Todd
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They did away with it - no cam lobe on the AHU shaft.
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Does anyone know what size the freeze plug is on the transmission end of the block - at the end of the IM shaft?
Realized that while the shop replaced all the rest of them they appear to have left that one out.
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36.6mm
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=oot3azeaj2imke45432geoyy&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1282902@JETTA%20&year=1987&cid=freeze@freeze&gid=5332@Expansion%20Plug
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Thanks Andrew!!
Hookay - my transmission is back home, I have my machined IP bracket / timing cover / pulley, I have my engine, everything except the head gasket should be showing up this week in the "seals and gaskets" department, I have all new cooling hoses....... I think I've nearly bought everything!! Wow.
Still inbound from various suppliers:
- Oil Seals
- Turbo:Downpipe flange / gasket
- Turbo oil lines
- 02J shifter parts
- Polo shift box for 02J shifter parts
- Timing belt / roller / tensioner
- Oil pump
- Camshaft
What's left to buy:
- Clutch
- Injectors
- Clutch hydraulics
- Head gasket
- Oil
Looking at the total spend vs. the used cars available for about the same money and I feel a bit better... In the end this project will have cost me about the same as a lower mile ALH-equipped 2000-2003 Jetta by the time I paid the transfer taxes on it. Only I'll have 2x the engine of a stock ALH car... :D
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Made some progress today... Front main seal and im shaft seals installed, water pump installed. Used my new die grinder to open up my exhaust manifold to match the turbo. Ordered my clutch and head gasket.
I'm RIGHT on the line between a 2-notch and a 3-notch. Decided to go for the 3 as I'm going to try one of the Dr. Diesel AAZ cams that I found second hand.
Other than that it was mainly a "clear the work space" day. Got all the scrap parts together for recycling, that kind of thing.
Won't be able to get much else done for a week or so!
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Gratuitous turbo photo:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/10916658155_7e666b7b1c_c.jpg)
One AWESOME thing with the GTB turbos is that they are very easy to reclock. I haven't quite decided how I am going to handle my intake piping - gotta think on that a little more.
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Haven't had a chance to get too much done... I have the WP mounted along with the brackets for the IP and the alternator. I have a TON of parts sitting down in Bellingham that I need to go pick up. It is turning out to be cheaper for us to go and have a short stay in Portland so we qualify for a customs exemption rather than just driving down and paying the duty on everything that should be sitting there, so that's what I'm doing instead! All the "fun" stuff like the head gasket, etc is there right now so that very much limits the forward progress I can make at the moment. Trying to avoid tearing in to the car till I have everything pretty much ready to go as I don't want to have my landlord on my case.
Still trying to sort out my alternator. I think I'd prefer to go for a 120A one - I've found that VALEO Part # 437369 for an AAZ is a 120A that still has the 'W' terminal. There aren't many 120A that have that. It's not a cheap alternator though - pretty darn close to $300 no matter where I look. Ouch. There is a REMY Part # DRA8950 listed out there for under $200 but it is identified as a "light duty" rebuild... I've got a "light duty" rebuilt alternator on Jezzie right now, bearings are done and voltage regulator took a crap after about 20,000km so I think I'd prefer to get something a bit better.
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Hookay, lots and lots of money spent but not much happening right now. I have a ton of stuff sitting in Bellingham waiting to be picked up. Turned out it'd be cheaper for the three of us to head on down to Portland for a weekend and stay in a hotel rather than just picking up all the packages I have waiting and paying the duty on what's there, so that's what I'm doing this weekend.
Fun things I've gotten recently...
- Racor Turbine fuel filter
- Facet lift pump
- 02J shifter, cables, shift tower
- Polo shift box (fits the 02J shifter components but bolts in to the Mk3 body without hacking anything up)
- Alternator (found a 120A Bosch rebuild that should have a W terminal on it)
- Hiflox Warp 7 nozzles (don't have them in my hands yet but I've sent the money)
- Water pump pulley to allow elimination of the AC compressor (I don't have AC - this will drive the WP and alt on the serp belt, only the PS pump will be on the v-belt)
- Bunch of bits and pieces for my VNT controller... it is starting to get a little more complicated than just controlling the VNT - serial LCD will show stats like a Scangauge would
I'm off December 24 - Jan 1 so I should have some time to DIG IN to the car finally. I think I've gotten just about all my bases covered now, not really much left to buy. Ordered all the weird little fasteners and things that VW uses... All the clutch pieces to do it OEM style... Heck I've even got a Mk4-style shifter knob and boot to fit my 02J shifter!
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Going to be a doozy and a way to knock the socks off the mtdi naysayers. ;D
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Going to be a doozy and a way to knock the socks off the mtdi naysayers. ;D
Yeah I'm sure excited!!
I keep flipping between "what the hell am I doing here" and "oh man this is going to rock". The bill for this build is frigging nuts for a 20 year old economy car, but really all I'd be doing otherwise is buying some other used VW that needed a bunch of maintenance and I'd undoubtedly end up spending just as much. The 1.8T wagon I got for my wife has had over $3K in maintenance expenses since we got it earlier this year, so really just as much $$,$$$ spent there. It IS a damn nice car though.
Thinking once I have all my bits and pieces I gotta lay everything out on the floor and try to take one big picture... Not sure I'd have room though, I've already got boxes stacked on top of each other.
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Went and picked everything up!!
Couple crappy things.... The "unused" cam I bought is a complete piece of junk. Rust on a couple lobes, gouges and scratches all over, one lobe has so much texture it looks like a piece of leather. I didn't pay much for it but I always hate wasting money, even more so when someone obviously either knowingly ripped me off or is too stupid to breathe without someone telling them how.
The other crappy thing is my clutch wasn't ready yet. I ordered it nearly a month ago through BoraParts. It's a DC Stage 3. The story is the dude who runs DC was in the hospital so they are way behind. The crappy part is the complete lack of communication. I had to call to find out what was up with my order after it didn't ship for weeks. I emailed after 2 weeks, no reply, called after 3 weeks. Told them I was going to the states specifically to pick up stuff so I needed it in time or I'd loose my customs exemption for it. Said I'd drive out to the warehouse to pick it up so they wouldn't need to ship it a second time, save them some money. Was told I'd be contacted if any issues came up. So I wasn't too pleased when I drove 40 minutes each way on my vacation just to find out it wasn't there yet. Sigh. Aaron said he'd make it right and he'd contact me - I'm thinking I'm going to have to stay on top of him though as the communication has been pretty crappy thus far.
Other than that - big pile of parts!! Can't wait to get started.
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Much progress...
Head is on, turbo is mounted, turbo oil lines are in, alternator mounted, lots of work done on my turbo controller... :D
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q71/s720x720/1174699_10152115608256427_1923448164_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q71/s720x720/1480765_10152115744366427_339686217_n.jpg)
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Turbo controller is alive and running, it is now actively able to control the "N75" valves I'm using for the LDA and turbo.
Added the EGT gauge too. Set it up so the LCD will change its back light from green to red if EGTs go over my setpoint. Haven't done anything beyond that yet though. I THINK I want to hide boost from the LDA when EGTs get too high so the pump will back off fueling.
I have another pressure sensor coming too. I want to be able to at least log exhaust manifold pressure if not have it influence the VNT position as well.
Doesn't look like I'm going to be able to use the SD card data logger board I got. This little Arduino is doing too much already and the SD library makes the sketch too big for the Arduino's memory. But I should still be able to write out to the serial port easily enough, just means I'll have to bring a laptop for logging. I was hoping for a toggle switch - wrote up most of the code before I discovered it wouldn't fit. D'oh!
I will of course be soldering everything up permanently once I have it all working.
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Swapped all the 02J shifter parts over in to the Polo shifter box I got so I can use the 02J shifter in my Mk3 body without hacking anything up. I can REALLY see why this is such a popular swap - the 02J style shifter is quite elegant in its design. The 02A shifter seems like a bunch of crap thrown together in comparison.
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1512587_10152119481501427_2046005371_n.jpg)
Fiddling with my boost control solenoids still, had to adjust the control frequency down to closer to 30 Hz. The arduino doesn't have very many available frequencies - 30 Hz / 122 Hz / 245 Hz / 400+ and then up from there. 122 Hz gave a tiny range from "fully closed" to "fully open". 30 Hz seems to do a good job. I've been testing a solenoid at about an 85% duty cycle for the past hour and a half, it seems to get up to around 65C and stay there so I think this should be a decent frequency for it. From my reading most solenoids should be rated to a minimum of 130C. Yes, I'm using my EGT probe to measure the internal temperature of the solenoid. :D
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1559654_10152119493511427_1701291691_n.jpg)
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Are you using a gt2056v turbo? If so which did you use and which flange did you use?
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Great, how much to build me one for just the vane control for my Jeep TDI project?
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Are you using a gt2056v turbo? If so which did you use and which flange did you use?
GTB1756VK - a little bit smaller, but not much. Should be good to a bit over 200 HP / 31 PSI. Mine is a VW/Audi OEM turbo I bought as a rebuild.
I'm using a 2005 Passat TDI exhaust manifold with an adapter sold by the same guy I got the turbo from. Darkside Developments sells the same stuff more or less, I got mine through X-MAN on TDIClub. The '05 Passat manifold mounts the turbo in such a way that it clears the Mk3 engine mount easily, though I may have a little bit of firewall interference, we will have to see.
Great, how much to build me one for just the vane control for my Jeep TDI project?
Have to see if it all works properly or not first!! Only way I'd consider selling them would be if I got boards made up, the prototype board stuff is OK for a personal project but it wouldn't be any good for a commercial product.
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Should be getting my cam today!! :D Going with a Colt Stage II. Once I get that I can get quite a bit more done - without the cam I can't put on the timing belt, which means no timing cover, which means no serp belt...
My clutch issues with Boraparts are still unresolved. I'm getting right p$$$ed off now to be honest. It's the total lack of communication that's getting me. Called them again right after boxing day, was told that Aaron was "too busy" to take my call (too busy to deal with a customer who has been waiting over a month for a product with multiple missed "we'll call you"s) and to email him, he'd reply right away. Email sent, nothing. So today I'm going to call again, get my refund. If not then I'll do a chargeback through my ccard. It's a little tricky though as I've gotten a few bits from the order, just not the clutch.
So to all of you out there looking for clutches, do NOT buy DC Clutch. I've been waiting over 6 weeks now since ordering my DC Stage III clutch from Boraparts without getting squat. At this point I don't even want the thing - a rushed assembly by a company that is too backed up to maintain their volume sold by a retailer who can't be bothered to keep the customer in the loop, sounds AWESOME eh? I'm sure warranty issues would be dealt with promptly too.
Mainly I've been working on the VNT computer lately. Still mostly software changes right now - I have the basic "control the VNT based on TPS and RPM" stuff sorted, I have the EGT and EMP sensors being read along with some processing. I'm about half way through changing the LDA map over from a pressure-based map to an EGT-based map instead. The idea is the computer will be able to back off the fuel to keep EGTs below my setpoint (at least if there is boost present at the time). Should be fun!
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:D :D :D :D :D
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1521664_10152134861066427_1681897412_n.jpg)
Colt Stage 2...
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Specs please
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Specs please
I was asked not to post them online, but I'll send you a PM.
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Specs please
I was asked not to post them online, but I'll send you a PM.
How does this cam improve performance?
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with most performance gains the more air you can get into and out of the cylinder the potential for it to run better is there. The cam will do both.
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Specs please
I was asked not to post them online, but I'll send you a PM.
How does this cam improve performance?
More lift than the stock TDI cam plus quite a bit more duration. Valves open sooner, close later and open further. This improves the overall volumetric efficiency of the engine, meaning more air gets packed in, meaning you can run more fuel without melting things. :)
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Finally got a call today from Boraparts - still no clutch though. I was able to cancel the order; DC Clutch was saying they still didn't have any friction material in stock and that they'd have it in "a couple of days". Well considering my clutch was going to be ready in "a couple of days" a month ago, I'm definitely not falling for that line!!
Sooooooooo... back to the drawing board on that one!
The other GT1756VK builds I see out there are all in the 350ish ft-lb range power wise so stock clutches are not an option. I'm sort of thinking of the South Bend Stage III Endurance though I've seen a few complaints about rough engagement at slow speeds. Always hard to know what is "I have worn out crappy motor mounts" and what is actually the clutch though. Clutches are such a b**ch to choose, so many trade-offs. I want something that'll hold all the power I can throw at it yet still behave itself nicely in traffic and be reasonable when I'm backing a trailer uphill. Seems like a lot to ask!
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I've used a few SB truck clutches without any regrets whatsoever, for what that is worth.
well, once I got a flywheel with the wrong drilling, but hey sent a new one right away.
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I am fully pleased with the SB in the MKIV it is the stage 2 endurance good for 350ft/lbs or something.
I am also fully pleased with the clutchnet 6 puck with 6 springs in my 020. It is a little rougher than the SB but it also holds more. Good engine mounts with both and it isn't too bad, but just enough to know it isn't stock.
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I'm running the sachs clutch with single mass flywheel built for a vr6 on my mk4. It is the smoothest engaging clutch I've ever had. I'm also running bosio pp764 nozzles, Malones stage 4 tune, vnt 17, full 2.5" custom exhaust, ported head, a large smic and pd150 intake. The clutch holds the power with no issues. I know that you'll be pushing more power and torque than my set up but there is nothing worse than a grabby clutch on your daily driver. This clutch actually has a lighter pedal feel than the stock clutch I pulled out.
Awesome engine build by the way. Is your head stock? Other than the colt cam going in I didn't see anything about the head. Sorry if I missed it.
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Yeah the head is bone stock at the moment. I would have loved to have it worked on but this build has cost me a fortune already. I have had my head reconditioned - new seals and guides, valves resurfaced, etc but that's it for the moment.
Once this is all paid off and I get bored of it I can definitely see myself getting the head ported by someone who knows what they are doing. I've kind of been keeping my eyes open for suitable core heads.
As to the clutch - the SB stuff is leading in my mind at the moment. I'm about to go to the states for a couple of weeks so getting something shipped to the hotel is definitely a possibility. Just trying to decide if I want the Stage 2 Endurance or the Stage 3 Endurance. I'll have brand new motor mounts when I swap everything but I'm not terribly in to the idea of an unfriendly clutch in traffic. That said I work from home so my driving is mostly for pleasure / family stuff, and we have the 1.8T wagon too. So it's not like I HAVE to use Jezebel all the time.
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I would go for the stage 3 then. My stage 2 acts as stock with the heavy flywheel. that would be the other part, if you go with a lighter flywheel it will probably be much harsher than with the heavy 21lb one I have.
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My vote is for the SB stage 2. Good choice on the cam as well. I've done a couple colt cams and both owners noticed a difference. I have a stage 2 sitting on the shelf for myself whenever I get time. If you do decide to get the head ported, make sure you get a 3 angle valve job at the same time. Keep up the great work. The first time you step on it after break in will make it all worth it.
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Yeah the 21lb is definitely happening.
I did email the folks at SB a while back and they recommend the Stage 3 endurance for me. I do tow with Jezzie a fair bit too - he felt that the stronger clutch would be a better bet given my use case.
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Got some solid good work done on my VNT controller last night. Finally sorted out how to add new maps / modify existing ones in terms of changing the axes - I have set the LDA map up now so it uses EGT as the Y axis and RPM as the X axis. This lets me set RPM-dependent max EGT ranges. The idea is the LDA will still operate exactly as normal (increasing fuel as boost comes on) but I will be able to taper off the boost getting to the LDA as EGTs go past a certain (adjustable) point.
I left it as a 2D map as I figured I might want to have different max EGT ranges depending on RPM - for instance allowing a bit higher EGTs at low RPM to get things going (knowing that I'm not going to be staying there long) but getting more aggressive about the EGT limits as I get closer to 5500 RPM. Naturally it is going to take some effort to tune this though.
I will say it is pretty neat being able to hold a lighter to my EGT probe and having the controller start changing the duty cycle on one of the solenoids in response. Since I haven't been working with a real engine yet I haven't had an RPM trigger available so I haven't been able to simulate changing conditions with the VNT solenoid. But since this map applies even with no pressure / RPM applied (just an EGT input) I can actually hear the LDA solenoid reacting as the probe heats up. Very cool. And nice to know that this actually WORKS.
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Ordered my clutch today...
I decided to go with the SBC Stage 2 Endurance. I dug through a ton of dyno sheets for various TDIs in the power range I'm looking at and there were precious few that exceeded the Stage 2 Endurance torque rating. Those that did were within 15-20 ft-lbs and I've heard the SB ratings are quite conservative.
Overall I found too many people complaining about poor low speed driveability with their Stage 3 clutches, that they are too "grabby". Trying to back up my trailer with a grabby clutch sounds horrible. So does sitting in a 45 minute border lineup - I really like the fact I can just clutch in without hitting the accelerator to roll forward in that kind of situation right now.
So at this point the only single part I'm missing is my injectors. I have a set of HFLOX Warp 7 nozzles here ready to be installed, just need to get over to the diesel shop to drop 'em off. All that's left on my actual engine build is installing the belts, valve cover and oil pan... Wow, not far off now! Unfortunately I'm getting on a plane on Sunday to head down to Atlanta for a couple of weeks so there won't be any progress till the end of the month. Wife's b-day today too. Outta time!
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You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch. Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks. Been there.
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You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch. Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks. Been there.
Yeah after I ordered it I saw someone mentioning somewhere that South Bend basically say that the Stage 2 Endurance will hold more torque than a pair of street tires will anyhow. So basically unless you are planning to run drag tires, the Stage 2 is perfect. Anyhow glad it's sorted, and glad to save $200 on it over the Stage 3.
The one thing that hurts about all of this is I actually planned a trip to the states back in December purely so I could get my clutch and avoid the shipping / duty involved in sending everything here to Canada. I did get a whole bunch of other stuff for my build so it wasn't a total loss, but I'm having to spend an extra $150 in shipping and duty now that I wouldn't have had if the DC clutch had shipped anywhere even remotely close to when it was supposed to. I mean considering the total bill for everything here it's not that big a deal but $150 is $150. I could have redone my front brakes for that.
ANYHOW, enough griping!!
Here's where I'm at now:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/q71/s720x720/1520660_10152144123276427_533844706_n.jpg)
Cam and lifters installed (with tons of cam lube!), timing belt installed - still need to do the IP timing. I used the "small screwdriver down an injector hole to find TDC" method since the flywheel obviously isn't on yet - will finalize everything later on. Serp belt installed, very pleased with how the WP pulley and belt fit as I pulled the part numbers from various posts out there on the interwebz.
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You are scaring me with those open injector holes. ;) Did you get a windage tray for the oil pan?
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Make sure you recheck the timing belt timing once installed. I had to do the same thing using a small probe down the injector hole for finding TDC but once everything was together I was out about a tooth on the flywheel.
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You are scaring me with those open injector holes. ;) Did you get a windage tray for the oil pan?
The engine stays wrapped up when I'm not actively working on it... But yeah, tell me about it. Yep, I've got a windage tray too.
Make sure you recheck the timing belt timing once installed. I had to do the same thing using a small probe down the injector hole for finding TDC but once everything was together I was out about a tooth on the flywheel.
Most definitely... I mainly wanted to be able to turn it over and confirm that the t-belt was tracking straight considering I've got a modified pump bracket and a non-native pump.
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You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch. Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks. Been there.
Yeah after I ordered it I saw someone mentioning somewhere that South Bend basically say that the Stage 2 Endurance will hold more torque than a pair of street tires will anyhow. So basically unless you are planning to run drag tires, the Stage 2 is perfect. Anyhow glad it's sorted, and glad to save $200 on it over the Stage 3.
The one thing that hurts about all of this is I actually planned a trip to the states back in December purely so I could get my clutch and avoid the shipping / duty involved in sending everything here to Canada. I did get a whole bunch of other stuff for my build so it wasn't a total loss, but I'm having to spend an extra $150 in shipping and duty now that I wouldn't have had if the DC clutch had shipped anywhere even remotely close to when it was supposed to. I mean considering the total bill for everything here it's not that big a deal but $150 is $150. I could have redone my front brakes for that.
ANYHOW, enough griping!!
Here's where I'm at now:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/q71/s720x720/1520660_10152144123276427_533844706_n.jpg)
Cam and lifters installed (with tons of cam lube!), timing belt installed - still need to do the IP timing. I used the "small screwdriver down an injector hole to find TDC" method since the flywheel obviously isn't on yet - will finalize everything later on. Serp belt installed, very pleased with how the WP pulley and belt fit as I pulled the part numbers from various posts out there on the interwebz.
Looking good Bryn.
028 121 031K for the pulley? What about belt length?
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I think I used the "E" version of the pulley, it's basically the same but cheaper.
Belt length - I posted it in another thread on here, I'm on my phone right now so it's hard to find. I'll try and remember to update later!
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OK - if the belt is too long and rubbing on they WP pulley under the tensioner then you still need a shorter belt. The parts stores seem to really suck at belt size lookups for the Canada-specific engines so I'm not surprised you've had issues. Our ACC-engined Jetta took about 3 tries to get the right size belt and it has exactly the same pulley layout as you are dealing with.
I believe I got a Gates K060408HD for my car with the same setup.
I haven't put it on yet so I can't say for sure that it is the right size but I got the size info from my research before. You can get the 'regular' version of the belt without the HD suffix for a tiny bit less money. The HD version is their fleet service version which is supposed to last longer. It's a green belt rather than black.
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Thanks for the responses guys. I ended up having a "K" pulley here. I also had an "A" but the offset was wrong.
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are you running Power steering?
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I will be - haven't bolted it up yet though. PS will be driven off a V-belt. The V-belt pulley on the crank is installed already.
Here's a better picture of the belt layout for anyone who didn't see it already:
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1545649_10152144122466427_99016480_n.jpg)
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Question: I know the ALH and later cars came with a vacuum reservoir. But they also have a different style of vacuum pump. Any thoughts as to whether I should try and find a reservoir? I'm thinking it will probably be OK since the factory vacuum pump was able to handle the turbo + EGR + something else I haven't figured out yet in stock form.
Thoughts?
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None of the VW cars ran a vacuum "ball" until the ALH cars, at least that I'm aware of. Not really sure why they started running the vacuum balls on them either, maybe the duty cycle of the egr and n75 valves can be a high enough load? Anyhow, I think you will be fine. Likely the other vacuum thing you're thinking of is your locks.
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My 83 GTI had a vacuum "honeycomb" attached to the hood of the car. You maybe able to find one and strap it to the hood like they did if you really need to.
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I think they added the ALH vacuum reservoir because of the VNT vacuum actuator. I would add one if going with the vacuum actuator on your VNT control. It would 'suck' to use enough vacuum during braking and not build enough at idle and have your vanes not close properly at take off...
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I think they added the ALH vacuum reservoir because of the VNT vacuum actuator. I would add one if going with the vacuum actuator on your VNT control. It would 'suck' to use enough vacuum during braking and not build enough at idle and have your vanes not close properly at take off...
That's exactly what I was thinking. I know it takes about 2 seconds to suck the brake booster "empty" at idle with my 1.6 (which uses the same vacuum pump). But then again the ALH cars definitely have a very active EGR system as well, which I won't have. I guess I can throw a gauge on and see once I have everything installed.
None of the VW cars ran a vacuum "ball" until the ALH cars, at least that I'm aware of. Not really sure why they started running the vacuum balls on them either, maybe the duty cycle of the egr and n75 valves can be a high enough load? Anyhow, I think you will be fine. Likely the other vacuum thing you're thinking of is your locks.
Definitely not the locks - they have their own separate pump in the trunk. My AHU came with a mess of wiring and vacuum lines - I pulled two vacuum solenoids and sold them to libby months ago, but when I was digging through the rest of the rats nest I found a third solenoid buried in the mess. So the "pile of engine" I bought came with 3 separate solenoids. Some of the airboxes had a vacuum controlled hot air valve so that might be what it was for.
My 83 GTI had a vacuum "honeycomb" attached to the hood of the car. You maybe able to find one and strap it to the hood like they did if you really need to.
Not a half bad way to go if I decide I need one. Be nice to have that bit of retro charm! Plus those things are cool. I guess a check valve would be in order.
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Home from my work trip, had a package waiting for me that included:
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/r270/522441_10152169877656427_2105157787_n.jpg)
Sweeeeet.... :D :D
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Nice!
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I would go for the stage 3 then. My stage 2 acts as stock with the heavy flywheel. that would be the other part, if you go with a lighter flywheel it will probably be much harsher than with the heavy 21lb one I have.
30,000 to 40,000 on the SBC and I am easy on it mostly. I passed a guy in 5th and it slipped on me. I had myself and the 2 girls in the car, roof rack and one snowboard...not much weight. But it slipped no doubt and I let off instantly, but I will be looking for another clutch soon I am sure. I picked the stage 2 endurance or whatever it is called because it was supposed to be 110ft/lbs more than I would ever be making, but I am no longer impressed with this clutch. Really this is the first time I really have got on it, especially in 5th, and it has slipped. I would see about getting that stage 3 if I were you.
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Too late now!
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you can always return it. I would if I had the chance, since you are towing.
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Cross border shipping would have me in about $300 by the time it was there and the replacement got here. Plus another couple hundred for the upgrade. I am TAPPED OUT right now.
For anyone contemplating a similar project, plan on spending a low end Kia to get it done....
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For anyone contemplating a similar project, plan on spending a low end Kia to get it done....
Isn't the case for any big project?? ;D
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Dropped off my injectors and the HFLOX Warp 7 nozzles I managed to score at NW Injection on Wednesday. Price they came back with to set them up was a bit higher than I had anticipated but I got the nozzles for under $200 which pretty much makes it a wash.
It's been too frigging cold even for me to past couple of weeks - I have a carport that is enclosed on 3 sides which is fine when it's above freezing but it's impossible to heat. Still I am getting squirrely and want to get this DONE already.
My wife's wagon just puked its downpipe so that's another chunk of unexpected change. My 2013/2014 vehicular expenses are up to about a fully equipped 2014 Jetta TDI now, at least before I factor in a HPFP or two...
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Started tearing in to Jezebel today. Pulled the lock carrier, rad, all my intercooler stuff, shift linkages, etc. Basically ready to yank the old drivetrain - just have the axles, the clutch cable and the cold start cable left.
Looking for an engine hoist now. Trying to decide if I should buy or rent one. Thinking I might just buy one and sell it afterwards.
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Started tearing in to Jezebel today. Pulled the lock carrier, rad, all my intercooler stuff, shift linkages, etc. Basically ready to yank the old drivetrain - just have the axles, the clutch cable and the cold start cable left.
Looking for an engine hoist now. Trying to decide if I should buy or rent one. Thinking I might just buy one and sell it afterwards.
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Buy one off craigslist and sell it when your done you'll know what you will be able to resell it for! ;)
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Actually all the ones I've been able to find on CL here have been priced equal to or higher than a new one at KMS Tools with the exception of the odd really dodgy and/or broken one. So I bit the bullet and bought one yesterday.
Once I'm done my build I'll be able to use my trailer again too so I should be able to deliver it to someone. That should get me most of my money back.
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Everything is unbolted and ready to yank! Now it's time to clean up the shop so I have somewhere to PUT it and room to maneuver my lift around.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1/1619294_10152225230386427_460766091_n.jpg)
I was DREADING unbolting the axles after all the trials and tribulations I've seen around here. Happily they unbolted quite easily with nothing more than my triple-square "allen key" set, no messing around. Downpipe came off the turbo without much of a fuss too, that was the other one I wasn't looking forward too. Gave it a good shot of PB Blaster on Sunday, came off no problem today.
There are some nice big holes in the back side of my transmission case for sure. Didn't want to take my phone into Lower Greaseland under the car so I didn't snap any pictures today but I will once I have everything yanked. Going to be going at it hard for the next few days, then I've got yet another trip for work. Bah.
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I love doing axles!
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Aaaaaand she's out! My shiny new lift did great. Had my buddy come by to help guide everything, worked awesome. I was worried that I didn't have enough room in my "shop" but it worked out just fine.
Empty engine bay:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1896906_10152227414636427_1903441659_n.jpg)
Engine on my new $69 cart:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1898264_10152227414556427_464570877_n.jpg)
And now of course the promised transmission carnage pictures!! I've seen a few pics of self-machining-syndrome on 020s before but I think mine is pretty darn good. The chunk missing from inside the bellhousing is HUGE! No wonder it ripped the inspection plate off the bottom. This transmission is DONE. Can't see in the pics but the spider gears in the differential look pretty trashed. The rivets that I can see through my fancy new inspection window are definitely sheared right off.
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1/1656059_10152227414451427_1406836339_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1623782_10152227414346427_1960749778_n.jpg)
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Buggered!
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Got a bit more done... Cut out the exhaust so I could pull the shifter as I'm switching to an 02J style one. Put new motor mounts in. Finished buttoning up the engine - just need to install the PS pump, glowplugs, injectors and the oil drain plug!
Injectors are rebuilt with HFLOX Warp-7 nozzles:
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1511021_10152275315901427_255948116_n.jpg)
Ended up paying a bunch more for the rebuild than I was expecting, but I got a good price on the nozzles so I guess it's a wash. These look fantastic - they've been calibrated and everything so they should be working perfectly. Sweet!
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Mounted up the PS pump today. Stupid belt is too short, gotta get a longer one.
Installed my injectors... Decided to swap the shorter delivery valves from my AHU pump as bending the lines to fit the longer Rover delivery valves wasn't seeming like it would work too well. Hopefully I didn't screw anything up there.
Measured out all the finer details of my turbo to firewall clearance. The vacuum can is going to be pretty tight - I put a few self tapping screws in with fender washers to keep the firewall insulation from getting torn up. I'm only measuring / calculating about a 1/4" of space, hopefully that's enough!
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When I was total newbie I swapped delivery valves around with no idea what I was doing and never had any trouble as long as you do it 1 by 1.
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Cool - yeah I know I have the right bits in the right order etc. I'm more worried about dirt contamination than anything.
Installed my 02J-in-a-polo-shiftbox shifter in the car today after taking the cable ends apart and lubing them up with some synthetic grease. Everything moves soooo smoothly now. The Polo shift box was a LITTLE bit of a pain as I've got an early Mk3. The early ones mount the shift box with two bolts from the bottom of the car and one stud with a nut installed on the inside on top of the tunnel. Later Mk3 cars and the Polo have 4 bolts from the bottom instead.
There's no easy way to install a stud in the Polo box due to its shape. I was originally planning on putting a bolt through from the bottom but there's a curve in the shift box in exactly the wrong place that prevents you from holding the bolt in with a nut. I ended up putting a bolt through the tunnel, securing it with a nut and then securing the shift box itself with a nut inside of it. That of course meant I couldn't put the bottom cover plate on until after it was installed. There is basically no way to crimp that plate on properly from the bottom of the car with the shift box in place either. Ended up using a self tapping screw or two to secure it. Ugh. But it's done now!
Not a whole lot left to do before I actually put this thing in the car now. I need to get the bracket installed for my great big Racor fuel filter, got all the hardware for that today. I need to buy a tube of CV joint grease and actually bolt the clutch and transmission on the engine but I think that's about it for the heavy mechanical stuff. Some work left on my turbo controller, need to pull my intake so I can tap it for a couple of boost ports.... Ummm... That's about it? Wow. The end is in sight!!
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Got a bunch of little things done today. Drilled and tapped my intake manifold, installed my IAT sensor and some barbed fittings for my LDA and turbo controller... Reinstalled the heat shield on the bottom of the tunnel... Put on my oil filter and finished up the PS pump...
Hoping to drop the engine in the car this week. Will still be a bit before I have my VNT controller finalized (had to pack up my work area back in January and haven't set it all up again yet) so no mad power runs for a bit. Obviously will need to break everything in first anyhow.
The part I am absolutely NOT looking forward to is swapping the cable clutch parts out. That of course is a prerequisite for driving though!
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Progress!!
Clutch installed:
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/10154088_10152298038471427_276879063_n.jpg)
Intake drilled and tapped for barbed fittings. One for the LDA, one for the turbo computer. The other thing is an IAT sensor. My computer display will show IAT/EGT. The sensor was fairly cheap so I figured what the hell, might as well know how well my IC is working.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/1185931_10152298038686427_649412962_n.jpg)
aaaand transmission more or less bolted up... installed my 02J shift tower and my slave cylinder. Discovered that the TDI front engine mount I got was actually for an 020 4-cylinder (ABA or AAZ). Bah. Also realized I'm missing part of the cover plate from the back of the clutch on the back side of the engine. Need to get those sorted before I can drop it in the car.
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/l/t1.0-9/q72/s720x720/1797996_10152298038881427_935904772_n.jpg)
I had been hoping to drop it in today but those two little things are somewhat critical.
You can see my old 1.6 sitting in the background. What a dirty mess!
It's kind of crazy seeing everything on the hoist like that. I mean... woah... that's a virtually complete TDI hanging there!
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That is a nice and bad feeling at the same time. You are close so don't fret. :D
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Wow, you have completed quite the amount of work since I was last around here.
Keep it up!
ps. Are your IAT/EGT sensors Auber Instruments?
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Wow, you have completed quite the amount of work since I was last around here.
Keep it up!
ps. Are your IAT/EGT sensors Auber Instruments?
Yeah I REALLY want it to be running in the next few weeks... Ideally very soon. Really the biggest thing I'm not looking forward to currently is the under-dash work for the hydraulic clutch conversion. I haaaate under dash work.
Yup I've got Auber Instruments sensors. The EGT / IAT sensors will be going to the turbo computer. I've also got an Auber oil pressure and oil temp sensor - I'm going to use the 2 Auber gauges I bought a long time ago but never installed for oil pressure / temp.
Picked up the engine mount bracket plus a bunch of other little hardware bits and pieces over the weekend. I have everything I need to drop her in now!
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I have a drivetrain in my car again!!
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10168061_10152313391361427_1191974970_n.jpg)
Way easier to fit the 02A in than the 020 - didn't take us long at all. I've got my shifter all hooked up, oil and trans fluid filled, all the cooling hoses except the rad hoses installed... Getting there!!
Primed my oil system with a power drill - I have a gauge hooked up to the head right now, got 50 PSI with the drill running at less than half speed so I should be good to go there.
Question: Filled the trans, the capacity is supposed to be 2.1L. I started having fluid drool out at the end of the second liter. The front of the car is SLIGHTLY raised but that should make it take more fluid, not less. Thoughts?
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I have wondered about that myself WRT to the trns fluid.
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My 02J said 2L???
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I fill the transmission by removing the speedo drive. The level does end up higher then the plug on level ground. You can also jack the front end up a little higher but I recommend getting it all in there.
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I'll add some more fluid through the speed sensor, thanks. I guess the synchros and gears load up with oil once they spin a bit, that would easily make up the difference.
Finished up all the shifter cable stuff. Had one stupid VW parts counter guy that ordered singles of everything I was trying to get in quantity - mainly fasteners. Yeah, I wanted one each of 6 different bolts. Amazingly many things have multiples, who would have thought? Anyhow I finally got all the correct bolts for the shifter hardware, clutch cover plate, etc.
Set the timing properly today. Definitely muuuuch easier with the ALH style sprocket. I've set the initial timing to 1.45mm, will adjust from there.
Working mainly on wiring right now. Quite a bit of my harness tape had disintegrated over the 20 years of life this car has had. Re-taped a bunch, added some convoluted tuning here and there... Oh and found out why my backup lights didn't work - the wiring was hacked up going to the switch and had broken off of the connector. That'd do it! I have a replacement connector to install next. Plus I need to lengthen my VSS wires. A couple of little things to do on the factory wiring and then I need to worry about all my upgraded stuff (glow plugs, coolant glow plugs, turbo controller)
Keeping at it!
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That's funny about your parts guy, here when I need fasteners, they usually seem to be a bag minimum with one bag being not quite enough for one car
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No pictures but...
All the wiring for the factory stuff is done now. My custom glowplug harness is done, complete with a nice 4-bay fuse holder on the firewall.
Axles are bolted back on (have I mentioned I hate dealing with axles?)
Sorted out an issue I was having with my shifter - one of the Mk4 cables I got is slightly bent at the end which was causing it to bind in 1st/3rd/5th. You could get it in to gear but it wasn't a good feeling. Tried to straighten up the cable guide a bit which helped, but in the end I adjusted everything so the cable is slightly shorter which gets around the issue. I guess there is a very slight change in the physical position of the shift knob but it isn't really noticeable. Those cables are f'ing expensive plus I'd have to pull the shifter box to change that one out otherwise I'd just replace it but I think I'll be ok with it the way I have it now. A short shift kit would also solve the issue completely so I could go that route if my adjustment isn't sufficient.
Airbox to turbo pipe is done - I had a much more complicated solution in mind when I bought all my pipe but it turned out to be super simple. As a result I have a bunch of 3" aluminium pipe and some silicone connectors that I don't need. Also realized that there is NO WAY I can put my Racor fuel filter in the spot I had been planning on due to the intake piping so I need to rethink that.
Decided I want to yank my turbo off and cut a nub off of it. This is why:
There is one itty bitty problem with going with this manifold, the turbo is positioned closer to the firewall. I guess there is supposed to be a heat shield that one bolts onto the hotside, but I don't have one. The upper mount nub allows for about 1/2" clearance with the firewall. Unless you plan on using it, cut it off, imho, and give yourself more clearance.
(http://mobrienphoto.com/Misc-Pics/TDI-Pics/Disassembly/_OB_9385-low.jpg) (http://"http://mobrienphoto.com/Misc-Pics/TDI-Pics/Disassembly/_OB_9385-low.jpg")
If you don't, your firewall could end up looking like this:
(http://mobrienphoto.com/Misc-Pics/TDI-Pics/Disassembly/_OB_9346-low.jpg) (http://"http://mobrienphoto.com/Misc-Pics/TDI-Pics/Disassembly/_OB_9346-hi.jpg")
Once that is done I should be ready to put the nose back on the car complete with radiator, etc... Getting awfully close to first startup. I haven't done ANYTHING on my turbo controller since January though so that is still pending.
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Cool. Let me know how your controller works out as if you could make me one cheap I may be interested on my Jeep project.
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Audi tt short shifter is the way to go. Only 40 bucks.
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Audi tt short shifter is the way to go. Only 40 bucks.
Interesting, hadn't seen this option before. Looks like it'll be a bit more than $40 as the original 'ball style' one that would fit my current cable ends has been superseded by a later one that includes the pin-style and a replacement pin-style cable end. Still though, only about $65 or so.
Played with it a bit today and it seems like I've got it adjusted to a 'happy' place. The TT arm would definitely fix the issue should it cause me any concern once I'm actually driving. Thanks!
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I have some pin style ones in good shape I'd send you for the cost of shipping and an hour of my time. also this stuff makes a big difference http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Shifter-Bushing-Set--Mk4-56S-MY02-05_p_279.html http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-billet-shifter-bracket-bushings-for-vw-02a-02j-02m-02q-transmissions
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Actually the way I have it adjusted now it's working great. Or at least it's working great when sitting in the car without the engine running... ;)
OK - where were we...
Pulled the cable clutch stuff out. I bought the proper bracket to support the clutch master cylinder months ago - went to install it and it doesn't fit. The studs on it line up with the proper mounting holes on the pedal bracket but the actual master cylinder hole / master cylinder stud holes are not even close. I wasted a couple of hours trying to bend it in my vise to get things to line up but it just wasn't happening. I think I must have received a defective bracket, there's just no way the oone I have would fit.
Thankfully those brackets are pretty cheap, so I've ordered another one. Hopefully this one fits properly. I needed a couple other little bits - the clip that holds in the clutch pedal broke coming off, plus the little plastic "bearing" that the over center spring rests in on the firewall.
I also have a couple other bits coming - needed some of those through-radiator plastic "bolts" to secure my AWIC radiator to the engine rad - I had some in before but had to cut them removing everything. Should be here soon.
Fuel system work today... I finally found a spot to mount my great big Racor fuel filter as the stock location is totally blocked by my intake piping, plus the Racor is pretty huge. I've got it mounted to the frame rail by the battery - there's a perfect access hole to reach in and change the filter. I've used a piece of 3/4" brake line across the radiator support connected to the factory tank line to get to the other side of the car. I'm using a Facet Posi-Flow pump post filter too. Right now I've got air getting in somewhere - driving me nuts. But I've actually pushed fuel through my IP now which is something.
I REALLY need to get this up and running next week. There isn't much left to do really... Get the clutch MC installed, fix the air leak in the fuel line, connect up the throttle cable, reinstall the radiator and take care of the AWIC. "Not much" eh?
Turbo controller is going to be a little bit yet - I just discovered that I need another whole little circuit to be able to read the signal from the crank position sensor. There's an off the shelf IC that can do it thankfully, but I didn't plan on that on my prototyping board so that's going to be a pain in the butt. But I have a schematic and everything, it isn't super complicated, just more time and effort. I had ASSUMED that the VW one would be basically the same as the Honeywell one that the VNT-LDA code I'm using had been designed for, but the Honeywell one provides a pulsed positive DC signal whereas the VW one switches a signal to ground instead.
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Wow. I'm frustrated to no end. Got bracket #2 for the clutch pedal, exact same alignment problem. So either my actual pedal bracket is drilled wrong or the firewall was punched wrong. Neither are easy to deal with-there is NO room under the dash for a drill and I'd need to hack the hell out of my firewall to make things line up. Gar.
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Would the use of a Rotary tool like a dremel help at all?
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Since I have 2 of the brackets anyhow I figured what the hell and took the hacksaw to one of the studs on the bracket. With that cut off I was able to mount it up - it still has one so it will still provide support. That's going to have to be good enough for me.
A rotary tool with a 90 degree head and a flexible extension I could probably have gotten in there. Unfortunately I own no such thing...
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Clutch has been bled. Holy crap the hydro clutch is soooooo much smoother than my old cable clutch was!
I sliced the nub off my turbo that was threatening to chew up my firewall insulation today too. Was kind of nice to be able to confirm that I've got oil going to the turbo, not that I was worried but hey, good to know.
I still have an air leak on the suction side of my fuel system somewhere before the filter. Frustrated for sure, I've redone all the connections with no change. I have a suspicion it's actually in the hard line I ran across the front of the car. Anyhow that's my next major challenge. Not much left to do though!
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OK, fuel issue sorted. There was a cracked reducer bushing on the inlet side of my fuel filter. I was going to pull it all apart again and it just went PING and popped apart when I put the wrench on it. Replaced with new fittings, no more air leak!!
That means I get to put the front end back on. I don't have anything left to do under the car now. I need a couple bits I have coming to mount up the AWIC rad still before I can put the engine rad in but those should be here soon. Tracking number isn't working but it's from a big retailer.
Once that is done... Fill up the cooling system, finish up my accelerator cable.... take the car off the stands and FIRE IT UP!!
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Sweet. It is nice to have a project come together well. I wish I would have taken as many good photos this last time as you did when you were building this. I bet this will be a really good runner.
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This is what I've come up with for the accelerator cable thus far:
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/10156139_10152351443376427_7523886230102502710_n.jpg)
I'm not happy with the actual cable attachment yet. The factory ball style connector is too tall and bumps in to that "other" springy lever that we all haven't figured out yet. I guess the factory style LR cable had a 'U' shaped bracket attached to the end and a pin of some sort that went through and held everything together. I actually am having some ideas on how to make something like that, but this set up will be good enough to get me fired up. I'm going to get a plate welded to the side of the bracket for reinforcement when I get my downpipe made too - it obviously won't last long without some sort of bracing.
So I THOUGHT I dropped my 10mm socket down the hole at the edge of the rain tray, off in to the abyss of the inner fender liner. I popped the bottom two bolts out to retrieve it and got all of this:
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/1458631_10152351450871427_1349059742210373464_n.jpg)
If you've got a Mk3 I highly recommend taking the two 8mm bolts out of the inner fender liner behind the wheel and cleaning things out - talk about a perfect environment for rust!! I found a couple of bolts plus one of the factory hold downs for the air box hiding in there - this car actually has never had the factory hold downs on it the whole time I've had it so that must have been from a previous owner.
'scuse the blurry pic, but here's my bigass fuel fitler:
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/1907311_10152351447306427_8581172515057670779_n.jpg)
I really like this filter. I have a 2 micron element in it - they are SUPER cheap to buy and very easy to find anywhere that has heavy machinery or marine equipment. Living on the coast that makes things simple. The filter elements are about $5 each. It has a huge separator bowl that takes care of solids and things before they get to the filter element itself. There is a kit for a built in heater if I want it though it ain't cheap.
Access for changing filters is down by the battery (this is mounted on the driver's side behind the bumper cover) - there is just enough room to reach in and change things out without too much hassle. My E-code headlights do stick fairly far back, it makes it much easier to remove the rear cover but it's just a quarter turn and remove type thing, no biggie.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/10152390_10152351447456427_6763037138484391137_n.jpg)
Everything is pretty much ready to go now in the engine bay. I found a better way to route my IC piping than I had with my 1.6 - this stays out of the way of the oil cap. I don't have the IC plumbed up yet but that's not a big task, I've got all the hose and everything ready to go.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/q71/s720x720/1926814_10152351822341427_784357256202894803_n.jpg)
There's a few small miscellaneous tasks to take care of yet but I'm hoping to fire her up tomorrow!!
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Did you bead the tubing ?
The clamps are overkill if you have beaded tubing, just a std worm gear lined s/s aerospace hose clamp correct.
If you ever want less heat soak, replace the hardline with silicone tubing and and just a small amount of alloy sleeves ( joiners ) to connect the silicone assys.
Your install is how the Stephansautohaus gave me piping to reproduce in silicone assys, after the tool was made its less money than metal hardline and no heatsoak ,and we make straight silicone to oblong to reduce clearance issues on the 1.8T ( 240hp ) in there Vanagon install .
GB
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Nope, no beads, or at least only a few here and there where the pipe already had them - I don't have access to a bead roller. Most of the clamps I actually had already from my last build. Actually most of the tubing is from my last build too - the new parts are the airbox to turbo, the 'U' bend on the front and the longer hard line from the turbo to the IC as the old one was too short with the altered layout. I do need to replace the clamp on the actual intake - it is one of the factory spring clamps right now as the T clamps I had were a tad too small.
Heat soak wise I'm not TOO worried - the pipe post IC is only about 8" long and half of it is silicone already.
My setup probably wouldn't be worth making in any sort of quantity - I have a 2005 Passat exhaust manifold, a turbo from a 2.7L Audi, an intake manifold from a euro PD150 and an AWIC... all in a Mk3 body. I know of precisely 2 other people that have the same turbo and exhaust manifold in an A3/B4 body and neither of them have an AWIC or the PD intake.
The straight to oblong silicone is interesting though - particularly for going over the top of the valve cover. I have enough room with the current aluminum pipe but it isn't far off of the injector hardlines.
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I've got a bead roller but I'm only home for 2 more days
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I've got a bead roller but I'm only home for 2 more days
Ah - thanks for the offer - actually I ran everything without beads on my last engine and didn't have any issues at 24 PSI. These T-clamps are pretty beefy when they are torqued down. True I'll be going for more boost here though...
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I hear people use hairspray on the tubing to prevent if from blowing apart...
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I reinstalled my IC this weekend. It was off all winter because they just leaked all the time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0&index=6&list=FL4u8dcRQAsDjZYkWUYUkbyQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0&index=6&list=FL4u8dcRQAsDjZYkWUYUkbyQ)You tube vid;
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg45/rbremiller62/file_zps6b3f217e.jpg)
I made a bead crimper with a few mods to a pair of crimper pliers. I bought a pair of crimper cutters & cut the tip off with an angle grinder. I cleaned up the crimp form with a Dremel to fit the round contour of the pipe. It is so simple and it works great. I made it in 20 minutes. I would leave a bit more tip on the next set of crimpers I make and soften the sharp edges more. I put the bottom edge of the pipe on the top edge of the ziptie and squeeze. Move 1/8" and squeeze again. Go all the way around 1x and it's done.
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Hey now that's perfect! I've seen a few other designs involving a pair of vise grips and a washer but that required a welder. I'll have to keep that in mind.
First start attempt!
Fair bit of white smoke but she didn't light. I've got fuel at all the injectors so it's gotta be timing. I was a little sketchy when I was setting the timing about whether I had the right cylinder or not on the pump, I had made a mark on the pulley but it wasn't clear to me looking at it later exactly what I intended to tell myself. So I think I'm off by 90 degrees most likely, will have to sort that out tomorrow as I'm out of time for today. Compression sounds great though, nice and even. The new starter sounds wonderful compared to my bagged out one on my 1.6.
Oh and I seem to have a slight coolant leak. And an extra thermostat o-ring. Oops.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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Realized I never posted photos of my glow plug set up!
I found this great fuse block - it has LEDs for each fuse. If a fuse blows or comes loose a red light comes on. One fuse per cylinder...
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1982134_10152355296686427_1604947439817377541_n.jpg)
I used an 8-32 tap on each glow plug as suggested by Mr. Vince Walden elsewhere - found some good nuts with an integrated star washer and then ring terminals. Lots of heat shrink and convoluted tubing makes it look great.
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/10252158_10152355296816427_8452055451705557042_n.jpg)
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She's alive!!!
First startup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5WosMsGOt8
Playing with her a bit during her '10 minute over 2K RPM' cam break-in run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2wOGQ7gnJQ
I was totally right - timing was off by 90 degrees, it was off by one cylinder. That'll do it!! I need to add some paint or something on my pump hub so I don't loose track again. As soon as I set it up correctly she fired up on the first try.
Currently timed to 1.40, sounds pretty good there. I'll have to get my timing light / pulse adapter and see how that lines up.
The car is nowhere near done - I've got wiring hanging out all over the place, I've got a coolant warning light flashing (guessing my new Meyel brand coolant ball has a crap sensor in it), haven't powered up my lift pump yet, haven't hooked up my IC, no downpipe and no computer on my turbo yet. Still have some brackets to go back under the dash, things like that.
BUT I DROVE MY CAR TODAY FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE SEPTEMBER!!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Sounds great! Congrats. The first video says it's private though.
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Thanks!!
First Start video should be viewable now... :D
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Awesome! Just need a little lube on the driver's door hinges and you're set! 8)
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Awesome! Just need a little lube on the driver's door hinges and you're set! 8)
haha actually that's my window crank. The door hinges are fine :)
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Good stuff! I'm sure that increases the motivation to get it wrapped up...
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Coolant warning light fixed... One of the pins in the connector had split in to two pieces. Replaced it with a new one, no more flashing coolant light. Yay!
The other thing that was concerning me is the temporary manual oil pressure gauge I had installed initially was reading normally but after a bit ended up down around 5 PSI at idle. I was pretty darn sure it wasn't actually that low as it should have been tripping the dynamic oil pressure warning system according to the gauge. But the gauge I was using I bought for $2 at a thrift shop some time ago and there were no other signs of oil pressure issues. I had been seeing 45 PSI just cranking the engine over and there was plenty of oil under the valve cover when I was setting the timing so I was pretty sure there wasn't actually a problem.
I hooked up my Auber Instruments oil pressure gauge today temporarily and fired her up again - 80+ PSI at start up with 10W30 at 10ᵒC, settling down to 35 PSI once things heated up. Yeah, that's what I thought!! The $2 gauge apparently didn't like actually being USED. ;)
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Made a more permanent connection for my accelerator cable:
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10253836_10152358298471427_6155636124884296965_n.jpg)
I cut a strip out of a piece of an electrical box I had kicking around and then shaped everything up with my dremel. There's a keyhole cut in the bottom that accepts the swaged end on the factory accelerator cable after I cut off the plastic VW end.
The cotter pin is temporary until I can find a small enough clevis pin, though I think it would probably work just fine forever if I wanted it to.
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OK - I installed my Auber gauges today so I have EGT and oil pressure actually in the dash now.
I'm a LITTLE concerned about my oil pressure still. I'm measuring at the head which I know is usually lower than at the flange, but once things are hot (oil temp 95+C) I'm seeing about 10-12 PSI at idle, and about 22 PSI at 2000 RPM. The VW spec is 29 PSI at 2000 RPM but measured at the flange.
Should I be worried? Looking around it seems like I'm not THAT far off of what others are reading on their engines (especially for 1.9s) but I was expecting higher numbers. I COULD swap my gauge over to the flange though that would be a bit of a pain as I went and cut all the wires to length for the head.
I had the bottom end professionally built by a reputable shop - all the bearing clearances should be good. IM shaft bearings are brand new and the shaft felt great installed, no lateral play. Oil pump is brand new, cam is brand new, there is really no reason for the pressure to be low.
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My 1.9 pump was a bit lower than the older 1.6 pumps, but I think it moves more oil volume. I would keep it on the head as if you have an issue it will show up instantly. If you get really desperate you could take the oil pump out and pre tension the bypass spring a little more and that might help
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I use the big oil pumps on my 1.6td rebuilds and also use auber gages.
I put the gages on the filter port just to see the spec mentioned when I first broke my rabbit in because I was paranoid :)
At sub 1000 idle after a long freeway commute I come to a stop at 25 psi. So any pedal and I am at spec with 15/40 oil. I drove around for weeks watching all the temps, etc. and making sure I wasn't dumping liquids and I never want back to switch it at the head like people mention.
Even on older runners I came across with the flaked im bearings it seemed to me I would get low pressures at the head with the dash dummy switches working, but the oil would definately splash still up top. These engines were borderline spec if not below at times at the flange. Part of the reason why I switched engines, etc.
I set my low oil pressure threshold to 23 or something figured that would show a change over my first year+ running the car and I have an aircraft alarm that is very annoying, piercing noises shooting from the dash that let you know stop the car even if the music is loud :) sucks very bad because its on with ignition while the glowplugs light, but i want to know if the oil pump locks up!
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I set my low oil pressure threshold to 23 or something figured that would show a change over my first year+ running the car and I have an aircraft alarm that is very annoying, piercing noises shooting from the dash that let you know stop the car even if the music is loud :) sucks very bad because its on with ignition while the glowplugs light, but i want to know if the oil pump locks up!
If you ground the buzzer circuit to the glow plug feed circuit after the relay the buzzer will only sound when the glow plugs are not operating - might give you a few seconds less annoyance! The glow plugs have such low resistance they may as well be a chassis ground.
Thanks everyone for your observations. I'm thinking I kind of need to check the pressure at the flange no matter what since that's what the spec is for anyhow.
Oh on a totally different note... Had an idea for controlling the coolant glow plugs. I don't have them hooked up at all currently. I'm thinking I can drive them off a relay connected to my Auber oil temperature gauge. I can program it to kick them in below a certain oil temp and then switch them off when it reaches something close to operating temperature. Should help speed up warm up a little.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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So after lots of reading it sounds like my head pressure measurements are pretty typical for an AHU. Seems the 1.9 engines definitely do read low at the head generally speaking. Lots of folks on TDIClub reporting similar head numbers, so I'm probably ok. :D
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Oh yeah, I figured at some point someone would ask what the firewall clearance is like with this turbo / manifold combo:
(https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10297668_10152362789916427_7411471652532947850_n.jpg)
It's definitely tight but it fits! The heat shield on the firewall is padded so the actual firewall is a fair bit back from there.
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my holset is a tick closer than that. Had to move the brake line so the compressor housing doesn't hit it from the engine mounts giving a little bit.
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Got the wiring in to a more permanent state for my gauges... I actually have my lift pump and IC pump hooked up now too. Haven't driven it with the lift pump hooked up but I'm not expecting any great difference, especially at this point.
I went out to the local pick'n'pull and grabbed a bunch of factory VW connectors so I could plug everything in to the fusebox proper-style. The AAZ fusebox in my car is a bit odd to say the least - since there is no ECU lots of stuff that would have gone through the ECU is connected through jumpers and things in the fusebox. There's a number of 4-slot "bridges" for lack of a better term attached above the relay panel that simply connect 2 wires together from the factory - found one of them was connected to the dash warning light circuit, perfect place to tap in for my gauges.
Found another one that is on the backup light fuse - I don't have working backup lights right now plus I have a set of LED replacement bulbs ready to install once I sort out what's up there so that circuit has plenty of capacity. Put my IC and lift pumps on there.
Wiring wise all I have left is the turbo computer. I have all the bits now, I just need some time and work space (HA!) to finish that off.
Also got more of my IC water lines done - only the return from the IC rad to the IC itself left. Once that is in I can fill up the IC, though I do still need to make a support bracket for it.
I seem to have injured my wrist somewhere in all of this - trying to contort my hand to reach fasteners and things has become excruciatingly painful so I'm trying to take it easy. All the under dash stuff sucks big time right now.
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No work done today - my hand is hurting way too much. Just sitting here with an ice pack which seems to be helping...
I did load up all my exhaust parts for my appointment with the fabricator tomorrow. Also took her out for a spin this evening, did my best to keep out of the go pedal. Haha...
Filled up today too as I was nearly empty. Looking back through my records, my last fill up was July 29, 2013. Some new fresh fuel is a good idea eh??
The governor on the Land Rover pump seems to be alive and well right around 4K according to my factory tach. Again I really haven't been taking the engine up that high as it is nowhere near broken in yet plus I don't really enjoy getting a soot bath. I haven't adjusted the accelerator stop on the pump or anything whatsoever yet, not much point till the turbo computer is in.
Overall I'm actually pretty soot free unless I floor it from a stop, and even then I think it's more that my turbo isn't producing much boost since the vanes are wide open. I think it is putting out just enough to open up the LDA - I don't have a boost gauge hooked up yet as that will be run by the turbo computer. I REALLY REALLY REALLY have to get on finishing that.
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Downpipe installed, I have an exhaust system! I've got a small bit of contact with the steering rack when I get on it, going to need to give it a little whack with a hammer.
Also had the shop strengthen my accelerator cable bracket plus weld part of the AHU pump head bracket to my Rover bracket so the end of my pump is secure.
We had a slight miscommunication around a heat shield in the tunnel, I wanted him to cut the exhaust behind the shield, he thought I wanted the shield cut. Crap. Gotta get another one of those, there are some in the yard I was at on Tuesday so not the end of the world. That shield was fairly torn up anyhow.
I also need to sort out my crankcase vent. Right now I just have a tube hanging down but it is dripping oil in my carport. I think I might go for one of those ProVent separators a day then plumb a line back to the airbox.
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Knocked my timing back a bit - I think partly I'm not used to a DI versus an IDI and partly I've got frigging large injectors. The 1.40 setting I started with was LOUD, plus the Rover pump definitely seems to have quite a bit of dynamic advance, especially under load. I have reduced back to 1.30 for now, which is measuring 8º with my pulse adapter. The idle is a lot more tolerable down here, but it still has plenty of clatter. Here's how it sounds now:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYbbsr9Yh9U
My theory is that the 0.275 Warp 8 injectors I've got are probably completing their entire injection event in about half the time of a stock sized injector. We shall see...
Oh yeah, assuming my factory tach is at all accurate, this thing REALLY REALLY likes to rev. Under part pedal it seems like the governor hits around 3800 RPM but if you push it down past 3/4 it will quite happily take off for 5200 RPM under load in an instant, even with the shimmed spring my old 1.6 wouldn't get anywhere close to that.
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Braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnsssssssssssssssssss....
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t1.0-9/10170793_10152383349816427_8231687700332599273_n.jpg?oh=c76581ed18b46bb92eed405395c4fad5&oe=53BCB304)
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I've got about 300km on my build now. Dumped my initial breakin oil yesterday and filled up with some Rotella T 15W-40. That brought my oil pressure up to more sensible numbers too, I think the 10W-30 I was using for initial startup was a bit too thin. Managed to drop my half-full oil filter on my driveway after an otherwise perfectly tidy oil change. ::)
Still haven't put the turbo controller in though I have finished up pretty much all the circuit board work. I need to fit it in to its case, attach a plug and wire it in to the car still. Oh and I realized I forgot to put an input for my IAT on the board, so I gotta solder a wire in for that.
I ended up installing the CCV factory style in to the intake pipe. I was thinking about getting a ProVent but honestly having another filter to change (which costs $50!) and something to drain plus another $140 to buy the thing... All to keep oil out of the intake, which VW didn't see as a problem. I don't have EGR so buildup won't be an issue, I don't have a low mounted SMIC to collect oil either. What I ended up doing was drilling a hole in to my intake pipe, shaping it to fit the factory CCV heater and then using some high-temp epoxy to permanently attach the CCV heater to my intake pipe. No more stinky stinky white smoke when I'm stopped at a light. :D
I've got a fairly significant oil leak from my valve cover. I gotta say I'm not a fan of the '3 bolt' design, I guess it was probably fine when everything was new. There was quite a bit of RTV all over my valve cover when I pulled it from the engine pre-rebuild so I think it had been leaking before too. From what I've read it is pretty easy to bend up these covers by bolting them down with the rubber seals missing or damaged, after which it is very difficult to get them to seal again. I've also seen a tip that you can hammer the covers out a bit around the bolt holes from the inside which results in more clamping force, I think that's what I'm going to try first.
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Just tested the crank position sensor circuit that I had to add to my VNT controller - I was kind of worried about it as I had no way to test it. Well it works!! I get an RPM display that matches my factory tach. Which helps validate that too... :D Now I gotta get this thing finished!!
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sweet
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Haven't put the controller in its box yet nor have I mounted its LCD beyond twist ties to my phone holder but I have driven my car and had the vanes close in response to the accelerator pedal. Swweeeet. I have done virtually nothing with the mapping yet.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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What's that? A VNT data log from an M-TDI? How did that happen???
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5475/14143870582_344e985ddb_b.jpg)
Obviously nowhere close to correct behavior from the controller yet, it is oscillating wildly trying to get the boost where it is supposed to be. The units are just fractions of 256. I have a 250 kPa MAP sensor so the MAP line roughly approximates kPa
Closeup of one bit:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/13960148609_372cbf902f_b.jpg)
Need to do some tuning so it doesn't see-saw so much.
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Just tested the crank position sensor circuit that I had to add to my VNT controller - I was kind of worried about it as I had no way to test it. Well it works!! I get an RPM display that matches my factory tach. Which helps validate that too... :D Now I gotta get this thing finished!!
I am really interested in your conversion circuit. I have yet to hook up my tach to the G28 sensor and i need something like this. Do you have any details or is it proprietary in some way? This is a great thread BTW with all the details; cool build "outside the box".
Rich
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The conversion circuit I used I found on a Megasquirt forum. It outputs a pulsed +5V signal.
This is the page I found:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/buildingandmodding.asp
Look for the section titled "2nd VR Conditioner Circuit" - it uses a chip designed for exactly this purpose. I was able to get everything from Digikey for about $12.
(http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/2ndvrconditioner.gif)
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Still tuning...
Playing with a different version of the VNT software, this one does PID control. Found a bug this evening that explains the overshoot I've been seeing. I've taken about 30 logs now - the "aha!" light bulb came on tonight looking at a log after some code changes. I can finally see why things weren't reacting the way they should. Not sure when I'll get a chance to fix things, hoping tomorrow but I might not get any car time till Thursday.
Also spent some time and designed a PCB rather than the prototype board. I've been having some analog noise issues that I realize need some extra filtering. The current board was good to get started but there is basically no room for the filtering caps and things I need. The PCB will obviously be a better final solution too. Got a great deal - 3 boards made for $30. The BOM component wise is about another $50 but $35 of that is the two pressure sensors. Doing without the EMP gauge would save about $15 but then again you can't get an EMP gauge for that little!
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Oooh... MUCH progress...
(http://noodlytime.com/postimages/vnt-lda.png)
Will be running on the prototype board till probably the end of the month but I am starting to get something approaching usable logs. I've got good control at steady states with lower boost levels now. I need to do more PID tuning but my PID loop is actually working properly. Sweet.
For anyone who might be interested, here's the current version of the code I'm using plus the board design (which includes schematics that can be loaded in Eagle):
https://github.com/vanbcguy/vntlda
The uploaded code version has had a day's worth of fiddling without being loaded in to the car yet, and the board is out for production but hasn't been built yet. YMMV etc...
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The conversion circuit I used I found on a Megasquirt forum. It outputs a pulsed +5V signal.
This is the page I found:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/buildingandmodding.asp
Look for the section titled "2nd VR Conditioner Circuit" - it uses a chip designed for exactly this purpose. I was able to get everything from Digikey for about $12.
(http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/2ndvrconditioner.gif)
Thanks for the great info. Did you put this circuit on a separate project/prototype board or is in incorporated with your main board? Do I need to shield the signal from the sensor to the dash/cluster? I may be asking a lot but do you have a parts list from your Digikey order? I'm good with soldering(I replaced the transformers in a flat screen TV recently) but in-depth knowledge of component specs/calculations is outside my comfort zone right now.
Rich
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The conversion circuit I used I found on a Megasquirt forum. It outputs a pulsed +5V signal.
This is the page I found:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/buildingandmodding.asp
Look for the section titled "2nd VR Conditioner Circuit" - it uses a chip designed for exactly this purpose. I was able to get everything from Digikey for about $12.
(http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/megasquirt/2ndvrconditioner.gif)
Thanks for the great info. Did you put this circuit on a separate project/prototype board or is in incorporated with your main board? Do I need to shield the signal from the sensor to the dash/cluster? I may be asking a lot but do you have a parts list from your Digikey order? I'm good with soldering(I replaced the transformers in a flat screen TV recently) but in-depth knowledge of component specs/calculations is outside my comfort zone right now.
Rich
If you download Eagle (it's free) you can load in my schematic for my full project from the GitHub link 2 posts up. It has the full schematic, all parts and their values, etc.
I've got the circuit built right in to my board - figured if it were good enough for VW that way it'd be good enough for me. Shielding wise the PWM stuff for the solenoids would be the main thing I'd be concerned about - it's around a 60Hz signal with my code. Solenoids are nasty - when you interrupt power to them they throw back a big spike that can be 2-3x what the feed voltage was, I do have diodes to soak that up but I should have installed them right at the coils themselves rather than on my board. The new board design still has the diodes on the board but they are far away from the other signals as much as possible. My prototype board doesn't have any filtering capacitors whatsoever on it and I've had some issues with noise on my TPS signal (though strangely only when it is hot, which makes me suspect the TPS itself - either that or it is somehow picking up interference from my engine cooling fan) Anyhow the PCBs that I've ordered have all the filtering caps that should be there, especially on the input voltage regulator, the +5V output from the arduino and on the various sensor signals themselves.
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OK some good and some bad...
Tuning wise I'm rapidly closing in on a good tune. I'm getting decent boost regulation now - a little overshoot but not much hunting any more. I fixed my code so I can actually set min duty cycle values on the map now - that will help as I can narrow down the range that the PID loop is working with - especially now that I have a pretty good idea of what the "normal" duty cycle values are for cruising along, etc. I set a minimum of 15% when not idling this afternoon which made a HUGE improvement, I think I can probably raise that closer to 25-30%.
I may also set a lower maximum right around spool RPM - what is happening right now is the PID algorithm is trying to get the boost up below 2K RPM when the turbo hasn't spooled yet. It cranks the duty cycle up progressively higher and higher till the turbo finally DOES spool and WHAM, suddenly I've got 20PSI when I was shooting for 10. If I cap the max duty cycle right around 2000 RPM at lower TPS values that should help with that particular phenomenon.
Wow, ain't this fun? Gone crosseyed yet?
OK, and the 'not so good'...
When I got my first batch of parts I ordered a bunch of stuff from ECS Tuning. I didn't realize at the time how crappy they were for shipping to Canada (got a massive customs bill due to the type of shipping service they used). I also didn't realize how bad some of their parts were. I got my serpentine belt tensioner pulley and my water pump from them. The belt tensioner pulley stupidly has a casing mark right around the middle of it which is leaving an impression in my belt. But more serious, the water pump I got from them sounds like the bearing has crapped out already - it lasted 600km. The brand was 'URO' which I've since found out is absolute crap.
I've got a new water pump and serpentine belt pulley coming now. Pulley is INA, water pump is Geba. Not particularly happy about having to yank everything apart to do the water pump but to be honest I should have sent it back right when I got it - it came with some of the bolts not fully installed and the metal it's made out of mars up if you even look at it funny. Bah. Wasted time, wasted money.
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Any reason you don't deal with vm autohaus near BCIT?
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Actually a huge chunk of my car is from them... :-) Lots and lots of the little stuff that you can't do without. ;-)
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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I saw an old friend the other day that works for ecs he said stay away. if not crappy parts they just have horrible bussiness practices.
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I saw an old friend the other day that works for ecs he said stay away. if not crappy parts they just have horrible bussiness practices.
In my case I got some poor quality parts but that was more my problem than anyone else's. I also got a really awesome Peloquin LSD from them and some awesome ARP head studs - no issues with any of those products. My own fault for not checking better on the brands of the various products.
So I noticed quite a bit of black plastic dust around my tensioner pulley today. The new pulley and water pump had shown up so I figured I'd change the pulley first since it's a 2 tool / 10 minute job.
The tensioner I had gotten from ECS had a plastic ring covering the bearing between the pulley and the arm that had come loose. Lots of evidence of it rubbing around in there. I'm pretty darn sure that's what my noise was now. At least it was an easy fix! It was only ever really loud when the engine was cold so I won't know for sure till tomorrow, but everything sounded fine when I started it up after changing the pulley out.
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Fargh, it wasn't the tensioner (or rather wasn't "just" the tensioner). The noise is getting worse fast, so I guess I'm doing my water pump some time in the next few days.
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I've been working away at my tune. I've got peak boost up to around 1.75 bar now (graph is in kPa). I still have a bit of an overshoot that I'm working on calming down but at present it just in the safe range of the turbo, I will just need to get it under control before I crank the boost up any further. Takes a few iterations for sure!
Boost/Target are in kPa, duty cycle/tps is in 8-bit so divide the number by 255 to get percentage - ie 150/255 = 59% Generally speaking anything over 60% duty cycle makes boost nearly instantly but you can really feel how much it chokes up the engine. I haven't hooked up my EMP sensor yet. It's also hard to back off fast enough at higher duty cycles so as not to overshoot. I've got a target boost map, a minDC map and a maxDC map - the PID control loop is allowed to go anywhere between minDC and maxDC, so for overshoots I need to reduce maxDC, to improve responsiveness I increase minDC.
Peak EGTs hit 600C (about 1100F) on that run. I haven't included my LDA solenoid duty cycle in the logging output yet but I suspect it was just starting to hide boost from the LDA on that pull - my EGT map hits a 50% duty cycle for hiding boost from the LDA at 650C (~1200F) and has the LDA fully disengaged at 720C (~1400F). I've still got room for more fuel at this boost level and I've still got more boost capabilities from this turbo (it is 'safe' to run it at about 2.15 bar)
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Replaced the crappy URO water pump I had on the car with a good quality one. The URO pump was definitely bad - there was noticeable play in the shaft already plus there was dried coolant residue below the weep hole. I had been leaking some coolant earlier on but the leak more or less stopped, I guess I know where it was coming from!
UNFORTUNATELY I still have a nasty rattle sound to deal with though. Kind of annoyed - I've replaced two defective parts now (that really were defective) but I haven't gotten the actual problem I'm chasing. I'm now suspecting my alternator - it is a new Bosch Premium reman. I guess I could swap in the original AHU one to see if the noise changes. If it's not the alternator then I'm sort of stumped, but I did notice today that the sound seems to follow the alternator's over run - ie if I rev the engine to 4K and then drop to idle the sound keeps going for a moment while the alternator slows down.
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Well what the hell. I spent some time with the engine running with the car on ramps. My noise definitely was not coming from the alternator, it was coming from somewhere around the bottom of the engine.
Checked the PS belt - it was a little loose so I tightened it up. No change really. Went for a short drive, the squealing noise got worse. It was making a squeaky squeal even at idle. Started thinking about what this could possibly be....
Wait, I reused the old harmonic balancer. Hmmmmmm...
Marked the inner and outer parts of the balancer, started the engine. Ran it for 30 seconds and shut down. My marks are a quarter turn away from each other! Yep, found my noise.
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Took her for a good long highway run last night out to Hope and back (about 300 km round trip)... First extended highway run since the rebuild.
Everything feels GREAT cruising along. The revs are definitely a bit lower with this transmission than my old one - I'm around 2600 RPM at 120 km/h. Oil temps were just a hair over 100C and EGTs around 325-350C when cruising (about 210F / 650F) which I think is pretty much perfect. Cruise boost is set for about 45 kPa (6 psi).
I still have a bad TPS that comes and goes - when it is working my boost control is perfect :) I've got a new one coming but man they are HARD TO FIND big time - seems this particular sensor was only used by Land Rover themselves despite it being manufactured by Bosch. Mine has a broken wire internally on the ground so the ground connection goes from "working fine" to "some resistance" to "completely open" which in turn makes the controller think the pedal is at any number of positions. My maximum vane closure map keeps the vanes fairly open at WOT to prevent overshoot so when it gets stuck thinking the pedal is floored I've got almost no boost. The TPS was only used for EGR control so most folks disconnect / remove them rather than go and buy replacements meaning they aren't readily stocked out there at your FLAPS.
Anyhow overall the first long drive was a success. The car feels great on the road - to be honest that's the first extended run I've been able to do since I had the rear suspension bushings replaced last year. Once you pop her in 5th and set the cruise control she's as smooth as can be. :)
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Permanent boards for my turbo controller - minimum run was 3.
(https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/10371514_10152445242806427_3699938745394599224_n.jpg)
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Replaced the passenger side engine mount yesterday - I had bought the '3 pack' of mounts from IDParts not realizing that the passenger mount was actually the wrong one. The AHU in the Jetta/Golf came with a hydraulic mount on the passenger side rather than the rubber mounts found on the other engines. I've been having some fairly significant vibration at idle so I decided to swap it out for the proper one.
Initial findings: noticeably less vibration. Highly recommended. The hydraulic mount allows a bit less movement of the engine too
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Okay, I've got a solid 1600km on my build now. I think I've got most of the issues sorted out. I still have a minor oil leak at the valve cover, I might take another crack at that today.
I had a bad TPS on my pump - turns out the Land Rover TPS is extremely hard to come across. I guess there weren't that many of them sold with EGR in the first place, plus failure of the TPS is basically invisible to the operator. Anyone who has done an EGR delete doesn't need it any more so basically the only people that want one are folks in places with extremely strict emissions control laws where they have some way of verifying that the EGR is actually working AND where the TPS has failed. Wow! That's not a big sample size.
My TPS had a bad connection internally. It would work fine when it was cold, but as soon as it warmed up the ground connection would start to go. It probably passed the testing that Bosch did on the bench when they rebuilt the pump but it doesn't work in the real world. It wasn't worth sending the whole pump back to get it replaced so I ended up ponying up for a new one - $120!! Bah. I also got a couple of used ones sent to me by a very nice gentleman on DefenderSource so I have 3 good ones now. I did manage to make up a little voltage divider on my bad one so I could limp along, but that reduced the resolution considerably.
Anyhow I'll be putting the new TPS on today and doing some more tuning...
Still having some issues getting my VNT control "just right" - I have some oscillation that I'm working on tuning out. There aren't very many good places around here to make back to back to back runs so it's tough to do this in any sort of a scientific manner! I adjusted the stop screw on my turbo last week but didn't have a working TPS till yesterday - that buggered up most of the tuning I had done previously so I'm more or less starting with a clean sheet now. As of last night things are pretty usable though there is definitely some overshoot I need to get under control. The system is 'hunting' too much still.
Oh the LDA control works PERFECT. I have it set to start pulling off boost from the LDA when EGTs hit 650C. It works great - I did an onramp pull yesterday that hit the limit, you can totally feel the fuel backing off big time. The EGTs barely go past 650C no matter what you do - that is pretty much exactly what I was hoping for. It's also neat seeing my LCD go from 'happy green' to 'ANGRY ORANGE' as the system warns me. I do have it set up to go 'BLOOD RED' if EGTs get really high, but I haven't gotten up there.
And yes, I can definitely do a 2-wheel burnout now off the line on dry pavement. This clutch holds great!
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I just wanted to say that you deserve some big Kudos on this project. It is one of the most well-thought-out and well-executed car projects I have seen. The engine, pump, turbo, intercooler choices are what I would also choose. Great job on getting a working electronic control as well. Thumbs-up.
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I just wanted to say that you deserve some big Kudos on this project. It is one of the most well-thought-out and well-executed car projects I have seen. The engine, pump, turbo, intercooler choices are what I would also choose. Great job on getting a working electronic control as well. Thumbs-up.
Thanks!!! It's been a long road getting here but I'm NEARLY "done" whatever that means.
I did my first real road trip last weekend. Drove out to Spokane on the North Cascades Highway in Washington State - SUPER gorgeous route, well worth checking out. Spent the day in Spokane and then did a quick hop over to Idaho and then I90 back to Seattle. Spent another day in Seattle and then I5 back to Vancouver. The car did brilliantly - I did need to tweak my turbo program a bit, needed some more air at part throttle in certain situations but that's more for smoke control than anything. I think I could probably stand to adjust my stop screw a tad too to give just a little bit quicker spoolup.
After I was back I spent a few hours looping around through a really decent highway onramp to tune my turbo up, made serious progress. It's pretty darn close to perfect now! I've got a little bit of a spike past my max requested boost of 29 PSI but it settles down nicely. It has perfect control at lower accelerator and boost levels. WOT is a bit trickier since very small changes to the vane position have a significant impact, plus the engine speed (and therefore air consumption and exhaust production) are changing rapidly upwards. Max EGTs are hitting about 650C at those boost levels, though that does include the controller hiding some boost from the LDA as EGTs approach 650C. I'll probably be increasing that limit a little but there's no harm in being conservative at the moment.
I've got the car in for a re-do on my downpipe currently. Not really happy with the first one I had made at all. Besides being a total waste of money it was just designed stupid. The guy who built the first one basically had no interest in fixing his sloppy work and I had no interest in fighting with him just to end up with patched up sloppy work as the end result so I'm paying to have it done again at a more reputable shop. The first one was smacking the steering rack plus he set it up in such a way that my cat didn't fit properly. I had him put v-bands on the cat so I could pop it out but I did want it to actually FIT in the car!!
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Useful note for anyone swapping a TDI into a Mk3 AAZ body...
The AAZ temp sensor has a different range than the AHU/1Z one does. Your gauge will read low if you use the AHU (black with yellow ring) sensor with the AAZ cluster. The AAZ cluster is designed for a sensor that is black with a green ring.
AAZ-specific sensor: 357919501
AHU/ABA sensor: 357919501A
By about 92C both sensors will read about the same, so the engine will SEEM to get up to operating temperature when you are stopped in traffic or whatever, but the yellow sensor will apparently read about 5-7C low in the 75-90C range, meaning your car will appear to not warm up much. I've been seeing temperatures around 80C when highway driving which was starting to have me worried that I had a bad t-stat. Will be picking up a new one tomorrow.
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(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5473/14543354975_8379738f63_b.jpg)
Latest code, latest tuning values, latest WOT run... Target at WOT was 205 kPa, it spiked to 247 then settled in between 197-210. That's pretty darn close to perfect. I still want to tame the spike a little but even the guys with pro tunes get a bit of a boost spike.
Man am I ever getting sick of looking at logs... ;)
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OK - haven't posted on this in a while...
Not long after posting my last log back in June we got notice that we had to move - yuck. Thankfully my swap was done to the point where I had a running driving vehicle or I would have been up a certain creek without a paddle!!
I've done a few road trips now, everything has gone very very well. The engine has settled in nicely and is running like a top. I've dropped my idle down a bit more as things have smoothed out which has helped with the overall cabin vibrations and things.
Exhaust has been a problem. My exhaust system really is a mess - in the end after a couple of attempts to get things sorted I've decided to buy an Autotech 2.5" catback and scrap my existing exhaust shop "custom" job. My existing exhaust has multiple fitment issues plus I've realized that it has been causing me a TON of vibration as the shop added extra mounts to deal with the fact that the muffler wasn't even close to the factory position. The muffler is also contacting the body which obviously adds quite a bit of vibration in itself. I've pissed away a ton of money on the downpipe / exhaust now and I really wish I'd just started from scratch rather than trying to reuse my existing setup. Live and learn.
Engine mounts have also been an issue. The stock front mount absolutely cannot keep my engine in place, there's just too much torque. I've been pounding my exhaust in to the crossmember below the seats despite there being nearly 1" of clearance there. You can really feel the engine moving around when you are driving too. I've decided to get a set of Stage 0.5 BFI mounts to hopefully keep things in check. To start with I'm just going to put the front mount in as I have a brand new AHU-specific hydraulic mount on the passenger side already. If that proves insufficient I'll add the rear BFI mount too.
On the 'good' side I can't believe the power now! Every time I drive my wife's 1.8T and step on it I have this feeling of "huh? where's the power? I thought this was the fast car!". I had a dude in a Porsche Cayenne pull up next to me at a light the other day and try to out-accelerate me - as soon as I caught second gear I had some tire chirp and then he disappeared behind me. NOBODY expects a 20-year old Mk3 to be this fast. Bwahahahahahahhaha...
The car is great with the trailer too - not that it was ever bad with the 1.6TD but this engine is waaaaaaay nicer for pulling something.
On the 'not so good' side I've got some leaks still. Looks like my power steering pressure hose is on its way out, I've got a seep from the fill plug of my transmission and I've still got some oil leaks from somewhere, looks like some of it is around my oil temp sensor. The PS hose is going to be a pain - those hoses are NOT cheap nor are the fittings on the rack easy to get at. Not looking forward to that job, I may just pay to have it done.
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is power steering a requirement? any plans to put this thing on a dyno?
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is power steering a requirement? any plans to put this thing on a dyno?
Yeah - I drove without PS for quite a while, while do-able it isn't fun in an urban environment. Add in that I tow with my car and it becomes absolutely necessary - trying to back the trailer up a hill without PS would be a mess.
I'm definitely interested in getting this on a dyno. There's still more tuning I need to do though. I lost the power adapter for my little laptop a while ago which has kind of made things difficult as I can't tweak the computer at all. But yeah I mean I haven't even opened the top on the LDA yet so there's definitely still plenty of fuel available, I still need to do a small stop screw adjustment on the turbo, I still have been keeping EGTs at a fairly conservative level... Moar power!
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Update...
Newer/better program on my VNT controller, has been working quite well. Actually I'm finding that I was calling for TOO MUCH boost a lot of the time - backing it off a bit has made the car noticeably quicker, especially in the lower RPM ranges. I attribute this to having the vanes open more which uncorks the engine quite noticeably.
I REALLY need to get new tires. I've had a set of Kelly Navigator Golds on the car for about 4 years now - they have been great tires but they absolutely cannot stand up to the torque output of this engine, especially if it is at all wet out. It is far too easy to spin the wheels, even with the LSD. I've got a set of 15" Le Castlettes downstairs and I'm thinking of putting some Nitto Neo-Gens on there - I think I can fit the 205/50R15 size that a VR6 car would have used no problem. My current tires are 185's so the extra 20mm of tread width plus a 'stickier' tire will probably help. :D
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2015 update!!
Appears my power steering leak was just a stupid loose clamp on the return hose from the rack to the reservoir. It was pissing all over the place. I went to replace my reverse switch and noticed the clamp was just spinning on the hose - that'll do 'er! Tightened that up...
Oh and put in the new reverse switch. For those of you who have done the 02J shifter tower swap, the standard 020 reverse switch works great IF it has a thick spacer washer on it. My old 020 switch had the spacer when I installed it in the 02J shift tower, I tried without at first but the reverse lights just stayed on all the time. With the spacer washer it works perfect. I haven't had working backup lights in like 4 years so I'm enjoying my new found ability to tell people I'm backing up...
I developed an oil leak at my oil temperature sensor. I was using a 1/8 NPT to M10 adapter fitting which wasn't sealing well at all. I actually used adapters for both my oil pressure and oil temperature sensors; BOTH of them had leaking issues afterwards (and yes I had the copper crush washers installed). I have just threaded the 1/8 NPT fitting in to the M10 holes with some sealant tape on both of those now and haven't had any more leaks. I had to swap out the oil temp sensor with a shorter one of course, pain in the butt...
Tires, I ended up getting myself some winter tires. I've got a set of Falken Eurowinters and so far I love 'em. They're quiet, they stick really well in all conditions and they ride quite nicely. I mounted them on a set of 15" B3 Syncro wheels I had here; I like how they look on the car. Shoulda taken a picture but hey... Went with 195/55R15s.
Oh, I also swapped out my front engine mount with a BFI Stage 0.5 mount. I haven't done the rear one yet, not sure if I will or not. So far the vibrations are pretty intense at idle - it's fine the rest of the time and I definitely can tell the engine is staying put a lot better now. I don't think I even have 100km on these yet though so I'm not ready to make a final judgement. Quite a few people reported that they had much reduced vibration after removing the rubber hood from the mount over on the Vortex, I haven't tried that yet but probably will if they don't settle down. Starting the car right now when you don't remember they're in there is pretty funny.
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good deal. I put a poly rear mount in once and it made your teeth itch at idle, but anything above that was fine like you said.
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The poly mount is definitely settling in a bit but cold starts are still pretty intense. Definitely have to hold on to the steering wheel!!
I have been fighting oscilating boost when the accelerator is floored for a while - my boost control is really good at part throttle, around town driving is perfect but if you floor the car from low RPM I was getting a jumpy spiky graph that wouldn't settle down till the RPMs got higher. That's actually the biggest thing I've been fighting with my boost controller since I built it more or less.
Well I was doing some reading today and stumbled across a forum posting I'd seen a million years ago but forgotten about... Listing the approximate surge line of the GTB1756 compressor. It's not EXACT but it's close enough for a guess... Look a what my target boost settings were in the troublesome area... Ah.
I was requesting enough boost to cause compressor surge which of course resulted in oscillating boost, which the poor controller was trying to clamp down on. I've been messing in software trying to get a handle on it while all the while the real problem was I was just asking the turbo to do something it wasn't capable of. Duh.
Did a couple runs today with the boost request from 2k-3.5k RPM reduced to safer numbers and guess what, the wild oscillations are gone. Actual boost is following requested quite smoothly, with a few little oddities I need to sort out still. I have a highway onramp I use for testing - it's a long run on to the highway and it has its own lane (no merging needed), it's near the port here so it's designed for heavy trucks to be able to get up to speed without anything getting in their way, perfect place for testing. First pull I did was from about 1800 RPM in 2nd gear, shift at about 5200, 3rd up to about 5200. Big blue smoke cloud, uh oh... Oh wait, that was my TIRES. Ha. Yeah she has a little trouble staying hooked up even through 2nd/3rd at full pedal with a slightly damp road... :D
The decreased boost has actually increased power output a bit if my butt dyno is accurate, makes sense since my EGTs are plenty low in the range where I was making changes. EGTs peaked at 707C (about 1300F) on my second run, still room for a little bit more fuel. I'll probably add some more via the LDA as my controller can back that off if the EGTs get too high.
Anyhow, fun stuff, glad I finally sorted that out, I've been pulling my hair out trying to code around real life.
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Just over a year now since I first started her up! First start was April 23 2014. About 10,000 km on her now.
I've finally chased down the last of the oil leaks it appears. My oil consumption has dropped to virtually nothing now that I'm not leaking it out the bottom. The oil pan bolts all needed to be tightened plus both of the M10 to 1/8 NPT adapter I used for my oil temp / pressure gauges have been eliminated as they were a major source of leaks. The valve cover gasket leaks were finally sorted using some high tack gasket adhesive. I'm on to Rotella T6 now, seems to do the trick. Definitely builds pressure faster after startup than it did with the Rotella T 15w40.
The gov mod REALLY woke things up; this engine pulls HARD to about 5000 RPM no problem. I've tweaked my EGT control code a bit now too, it starts backing off pressure to the LDA above 700 C gradually with pressure fully hidden from the LDA by 850C or so. Earlier code version I had was pulling off before that; you could really feel the power output bouncing on the EGT limiter. The GTB-series turbos are supposed to be good to about 800-850C. As of today (when I made the last change) I can hit 800C at the end of a full power romp going through 2nd and 3rd gear - I did a pull from about 1850 RPM at WOT, shifted at about 5200 RPM and continued at WOT up to nearly 5K again before lifting. I would probably melt things if I tried to climb a mountain at WOT but I don't see how that would happen... :)
The only problem with all of this is that now I'm going "but I want MORE!!!"... I'm considering looking for another head to have ported and I'm contemplating a cam plate swap on my pump (the Rover cam plate only has 2.45mm of lift, a stock TDI cam plate is closer to 3.00mm). I think I'm going to hold off on any changes for the moment, I've got a few other things that need to be dealt with first realistically but that doesn't mean I'm not thinking about it!!
I AM also sort of considering looking for a B3V or B4V to drop this drivetrain in to... But that likewise will probably be waiting until at least next summer.
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If you find a DE143 camplate for under 200 usd let me know. That is the camplate I am looking for.
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Update...
Newer/better program on my VNT controller, has been working quite well. Actually I'm finding that I was calling for TOO MUCH boost a lot of the time - backing it off a bit has made the car noticeably quicker, especially in the lower RPM ranges. I attribute this to having the vanes open more which uncorks the engine quite noticeably.
i think thats really interesting, and i realize i am late to comment, but i know even some of my honda friends have said they found more power by opening the wastegate progressively with boost rather than holding it completely shut until max psi is achieved. psi and spool up is not everything, its all about the flow, which is especially hard to measure on the exhaust, except maybe with an emp gauge?
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Yeah I actually do have everything to measure EMP which would make it a lot easier to tune intelligently but I haven't hooked up the sensor yet. Hehehe... The hose is even run and I have a block off plate on my exhaust manifold with a threaded plug just sitting there waiting. Lazy.
I've tried cycling the vanes from fully closed to fully open and back again while cruising along at light throttle. It makes a very definite difference, the flow through the engine is definitely needed. It's tempting to go all boost all the time but there really aren't any gains from doing so.
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On my mechanical control, if I am cruising and snap the pedal down, the vanes close until boost builds and the boost can opens them. In that situation I can feel the engine brake effect of the vanes closing until the boost spikes up to max, the vanes open maintaining max boost and the clutch slips... :P It's not really an issue, though, as I typically drive more intelligently than that. When someone controls a VNT with just a boost can, that engine brake situation occurs constantly unless at max boost.
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Interesting Andrew... Though I haven't specifically programmed anything in to my electronic controller to prevent that, the nature of PID control rolls the vanes closed "slowly" rather than going to fully closed right away, and rarely hits fully closed except when it's been trying for a couple seconds to build boost. Fully closed will also happen when boost is less than 15 kPa in my case (I have an 'open loop' mode for < 15 kPa measured boost that closes the vanes fully before handing over control to the PID mode with a 'primed' integral value when boost passes 15 kPa)
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yeah super interesting discussion haha, its against the norm of thinking about boost. interesting too is that i've always thought, just use a boost can that's good enough haha. i wonder if some it also has to do with compressor inefficiency at low rpms, like say trying to make 15psi below 2k requires way more energy (back pressure)to produce than what it adds. i guess that is exactly what it is haha.
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Yup, that's exactly what it is - trying to build 15 PSI of boost using 45+ PSI of exhaust manifold pressure doesn't really result in much performance.
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So I've made some serious headway with my electronic controller. It's obviously been working well enough for me to be driving lots - I've put about 15,000 km on it - but I've never been one to leave well enough alone.
I've got it working REALLY REALLY well now...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/381/18946544998_537e256db1_b.jpg)
EGT is in degrees, Duty is in % of usable range, TPS is 0-255, boost request and actual are in kPa (multiply by 10 for mbar, divide by 100 for bar, divide by about 6.8 for PSI)... Peak boost is 210 kPa / 2.1 bar / 2100 mbar / ~31 PSI
That's a highway onramp run, cruising as slowly as I could get away with in 2nd on a long onramp and then WOT on to the freeway. My 3-4 shift was pretty fast, the log didn't even catch my foot coming off the pedal :D I do use some averaging on the pedal plus the logger doesn't show EVERY data point used by the actual control loop.
The freeway has a decent uphill grade here too so this is a pretty solid test of my fueling levels and things. Smoke is limited to a decent puff at tip in and then a light haze that's gone pretty quickly. Judging by my peak EGTs (BARELY over 700C at the end of 4th, at which point I was going more than fast enough) there's still room for some more fuel :D
I've made some code changes that help make things a bit more responsive over the past little while... I've been somewhat conservative as earlier versions of my code had some issues spiking way over desired boost. Now that things are well under control I can make it a bit more aggressive. I think I'm also going to add a vacuum ball for the 'N75' as it does take a little more time than I'd like to close the vanes fully.
There's a little bit of jumpiness on the 2nd gear part of the run that I can see in my logs is me hitting the top of my max duty cycle map at that RPM, looks like I need to expand the available range there just a tad. Again I was being fairly conservative with a lot of the settings while I got things under control.
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That looks excellent.
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Well well well... What's this?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/21/07c51f1ce543624bea6a42142f5614b5.jpg)
There will be more to this story.....
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That's great. Looking forward to seeing more.
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I'm picking her up this Wednesday. 1993 factory AAZ car so my M-TDI is a direct drop in while the AAZ will go to Jezebel leaving me with a good car to sell.
I ALMOST feel bad messing with anything though, this car has only 125k kms on it, she's still a baby!
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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Went out to drop off my wheels today, here's a couple more pics...
Driver's side is arrow straight, there's a couple minor blemishes on the passenger side.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/22/a60ba648e9b0b371c2e61457b8a6d10d.jpg)
Ever see an engine bay this clean on a 23 year old car before?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/22/69c5944363f0701b0834d07ec7ff06b5.jpg)
Interior is awesome, kid approves...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/22/0f5f7e10c7c683eaf7914bd0d347ed29.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/22/2cdf497612e49416c22972ae21712b68.jpg)
More once it's out of the shop...
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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That's beautiful. It'll be a fairly easy swap too. The wagons are so much nicer than the sedans. Someone else will get a nice sedan too. Win win. Congrats.
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Hello, I suppose this topic is already super closed ???, but I am very interested in the project to implement it in a nissan patrol (sorry for my English, I am from Spain ;D) and I would like to ask you how you do to record the data in a graph, I suppose that from the usb backpack but I don't know what program to use. And I would like to know how to modify the pressure values (Is this by means of the .ino tables?) Since I am going to mount a gt2052v and I wanted to work over 1.0 / 1.2 bar and that it works well at a speed low rpm (the engine is a 2800cc 6 cylinder rd28) and finally how to adapt the rpm signal since it takes it from the injector pump pulley. Greetings and thank you :)