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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: theman53 on September 24, 2008, 10:12:01 pm

Title: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on September 24, 2008, 10:12:01 pm
Today I cut some excess off of the Intermediate shaft. I didn't try to lighten it as I am not too concerned with weight. I basically left it the same size as the small end. I didn't even take out the casting marks. Much better spinning...I don't think it would have been worse if I had chucked a thorny locust into the lathe and spun it  :lol:  I will post pictures of the finished product maybe tomorrow.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 27, 2008, 10:14:45 pm
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/49/m_7efc3dc14b2c4b7e8b4f331aebb97eaf.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/47/m_93b57739f4ef4406b135c15a621a79ed.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/m_8c9e5be3d82b4272b9035927ee5cef7e.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/m_4ac29ffc299d444eab6e3f2ccdf75049.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/46/m_8e06fc0907b34200b62887ec9ef83530.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/19/m_1c3312d0e45d4e01bc4356e3929a0684.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/18/m_91a4a3a37f1c4056b655d0ac0d1f7ed4.jpg)

what do you think of the line where the seal ate into the intermeadiate shaft? All the pictures of the head and engine are before I took it to the machine shop. Hopefully they will look better when they return.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on September 28, 2008, 07:41:37 am
The line looks normal. How deep is it though?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: gigaz2 on September 28, 2008, 08:08:17 am
micro pics, can't see the groove :(
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 28, 2008, 08:14:45 am
I can't tell I tried to use the calipers on it. I am guessing about .020"...you can't get the calipers into the grove really. here is a big picture.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/49/l_7efc3dc14b2c4b7e8b4f331aebb97eaf.jpg)

I could blow any of the other pics as well if needed like this one, you can kind of see the line.

(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/l_4ac29ffc299d444eab6e3f2ccdf75049.jpg)

I just thought that was cool. I balanced the thing and still you can see the casting numbers and GERMANY. I took quite a bit off too.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Jet A on September 28, 2008, 06:30:25 pm
Looks normal wear to me.

I also turned mine down....a little more than yours though. also balanced as well.
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/bdc3746f.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/992eaebc.jpg)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 29, 2008, 08:41:51 pm
what do you guys think of the rusty bottom end? The head is going out here soon as well. As soon as the guy northwest of me gets back with the cost of a built and ported head  :twisted:
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 22, 2008, 07:19:01 pm
Just got the call from the engine borer... the crank and bores were fine. He was considering honing and putting it back since he couldn't find pistons for it....but I had given him pistons to bore the motor to. He eventually found them. He said it would be about a week. He also found a sleeve for the intermediate shaft. THe mains and rods he said showed little to no wear at all and I could reuse the thrust washers :D
    I also took apart the head last night. I will hopefully be sending it and the IP out tomorrow. FULL PORT and undercut valve job for the head and GILES for the IP and injectors...you only live once right? I am breaking the bank for this so I hope all goes perfectly and no problems or do overs. I am hoping with the Giles IP and injectors and the fully ported head to make some more HP over stock, but still get some mileage. I will post some before and after head port pics as soon as I get it back.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: arb on October 23, 2008, 09:38:03 am
Great !!  What are you putting the engine in ?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on October 23, 2008, 11:34:05 am
Looks great!  Everybody is turning down their IM shafts, I guess I'll do it too.  :P

That's another person near my neck of the woods.

Brendan
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 23, 2008, 09:15:29 pm
I have a 86 jetta. It is nothing special but I am going to try and make it look like a respectable car. It has some serious issues with the pass rear fender area where someone hit it, but other than that is the most solid vw I have ever owned.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 25, 2008, 01:08:56 pm
My head is now at air cooled engines plus getting the full treatment of some under cut valves and a port and polish. AND about 4 hours ago I sent off the Injection Pump up north to a man named Giles. He also has my injectors as well. Still waiting on the engine.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: riddleyo on October 25, 2008, 01:50:49 pm
Sweet! sounds like an awesome build is coming!
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 30, 2008, 09:13:23 pm
I won't be able to afford it now, but when I can would this be "the best" intercooler for my 86 jetta that my new turbo is going in? if not please let me know what would be.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=7&products_id=200&osCsid=f89d2446b2b693d3b3d25487803811a3

I am all for good quality parts that work...I know absolutely nothing about intercooling a car, please help.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: cyrus #1 on October 30, 2008, 11:23:43 pm
I know very little about intercooling as well, apart from my research here.  However, that intercooler seems excessively large.  It says it is rated for 800 cfm.

If you use the turbo calculator here and type in the specs for the 1.6: http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml  You will find that a 1.6 boosting 30 psi at 6000 rpm only uses about 300 cfm.  :shock:
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: jtanguay on October 31, 2008, 02:14:02 am
Quote from: "cyrus #1"
I know very little about intercooling as well, apart from my research here.  However, that intercooler seems excessively large.  It says it is rated for 800 cfm.

If you use the turbo calculator here and type in the specs for the 1.6: http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml  You will find that a 1.6 boosting 30 psi at 6000 rpm only uses about 300 cfm.  :shock:


less of a restriction isnt necessarily a bad thing  :)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: AdAm84 on November 01, 2008, 03:52:54 pm
was I reading it right that that intercooler was only $150 :shock:  I am going to use a saab FMIC on my build. It should fit perfectly as i don't have A/C in my way. But for that price, maybe I will reconsider. The saab has plastic end tanks, and that looks super solid. 8)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on November 01, 2008, 05:26:21 pm
I am a complete turbo noob.
I have owned vw diesels all of my life...but never a turbo. I completely understand the consept of cooler air being better, but I have never done anything with a turbo motor. I was just thinking that I don't have working a/c and that should fit up there nicely. It looked like it didn't have much pressure drop and if it is rated for 800 cfm I was wondering what that meant. Did it mean it would cool 800 cfm to outside air temp or if it would cool air up 800 cfm after that it wouldn't benefit? At any rate I figured I would want at least something rated for 600cfm. That is the size carb on my old 400 and that is a na gasser. I just don't know though that is why I was asking.
Also, after looking at the site, is water to air a good idea, or too hard for a daily driver?
whoever it was that posted the link for silicon intakes Thanks. I have been trying to figure out how the heck I am going to piece all this junk I have in the basement into the car...now I know.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: jtanguay on November 01, 2008, 06:36:51 pm
Quote from: "theman53"
I am a complete turbo noob.
I have owned vw diesels all of my life...but never a turbo. I completely understand the consept of cooler air being better, but I have never done anything with a turbo motor. I was just thinking that I don't have working a/c and that should fit up there nicely. It looked like it didn't have much pressure drop and if it is rated for 800 cfm I was wondering what that meant. Did it mean it would cool 800 cfm to outside air temp or if it would cool air up 800 cfm after that it wouldn't benefit? At any rate I figured I would want at least something rated for 600cfm. That is the size carb on my old 400 and that is a na gasser. I just don't know though that is why I was asking.
Also, after looking at the site, is water to air a good idea, or too hard for a daily driver?
whoever it was that posted the link for silicon intakes Thanks. I have been trying to figure out how the heck I am going to piece all this junk I have in the basement into the car...now I know.


air/water is far superior IMO, but more expensive and more complicated.  it would really shine in a daily driver... imagine no heat soak!  air/air intercoolers will start to get too hot while sitting at a light, and so your initial go power is reduced until you get up to speed again.

with the air/water setup you can have a pump set to turn on at a specific temp, and even turn on the rad fan to cool the liquid at a light.  thats where it starts to get a little bit complicated though.

i think the 800 cfm is how much the intercooler is rated to flow.  so if you put more air going in, you'll have a restriction.  sometimes thats good though, so the air has time to cool in the intercooler.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on November 13, 2008, 06:47:48 am
I still haven't  got my block back yet. :evil:
But it is bored and the machinist was impressed that the cylinder specs were to be within .001 when he said most all the other diesels he does are .003. I saw the block laying on the floor and he pointed and asked what is that though? I have searched and have no clue. There is something and it looks like it was threaded or put into the block right under the hole where the vacuum pump mounts. It is on the transmission side and he didn't notice it until it was cleaned. It looks only to be about an 1/8" hole. The question is what is it, how do I fix it, what is its use, and what information could you guys give me on it?
any ideas? I am fresh out.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on November 13, 2008, 09:02:37 pm
anyone?
I hope it isn't a big deal. Please read my last post. BUMP
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: zukgod1 on November 14, 2008, 10:11:43 am
Got a pic?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on November 14, 2008, 04:13:46 pm
Nope. I will sometime soon or have the block and will soon.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: zukgod1 on November 14, 2008, 04:38:36 pm
I ask just because I don't remember seeing anything on mine.

I have a couple blocks sitting at home I could look at but not till tomorrow at this point.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on December 04, 2008, 08:04:50 pm
Look at what just came in the mail  :twisted:  :twisted:  :shock:
It may not look like much, but it is supposed to flow like crazy.
The old...
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/18/l_91a4a3a37f1c4056b655d0ac0d1f7ed4.jpg)
The new...
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/33/l_5bbc1c17952a44938ca9aaac0bb0a441.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_90bca9efd5a94fcf93f9b72ae56f801d.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/27/l_77ffb09fade04dbba684b8d6b74cea1b.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/21/l_6d9f380045ba4fb185618c652150b132.jpg)
And the flow chart
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/21/l_d32b370c5d4d44c5950378f28ea121a6.jpg)
[img]
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: cyrus #1 on December 04, 2008, 08:27:44 pm
Very nice!  I'm glad to see the flow bench numbers.  What was the cost?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Dirtrag2 on December 04, 2008, 08:34:58 pm
just took a look on fleebay and... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-12-25-X12-X4-5-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-AIR-WATER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a543Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem110311852219QQitemZ110311852219QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I might rethink my Projekt Fox at this rate  :P
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on December 04, 2008, 08:56:26 pm
My cost was maybe different than yours since he likes me LOL...Actually he gave me an approximate cost and said it could change with the price of metals, valves, phase of moon etc, but his quote was approx.530.00 and with shipping both ways I had about 600 in it total. That was cleaning, parts, labor, porting, getting the broken stud out, and cam seal...everything. So it was close but I will let him decide what he charges you. His name is John and will quote you whatever you need I am sure.

PS, one hell of a guy to deal with, great communication, and easy to talk to. He is not a my stuff don't stink pay tons of money now blah blah blah kind of guy. I would recommend 100 percent. Also, if he comes up with a camshaft soon I will be "testing" that as well ...if the wife doesn't care (find out :lol: ).
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: arb on December 11, 2008, 09:43:45 am
Quote from: "cyrus #1"
I know very little about intercooling as well, apart from my research here.  However, that intercooler seems excessively large.  It says it is rated for 800 cfm.

If you use the turbo calculator here and type in the specs for the 1.6: http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml  You will find that a 1.6 boosting 30 psi at 6000 rpm only uses about 300 cfm.  :shock:


Well, for $150 it certainly adds to the TOO COOL factor even if is it almost 3x larger than required. But hey, what's the harm ? The temp drop should be a little more - a good thing - and the increased spool time sounds like its not an issue for TheMan53 :-)  I like this idea - but I'm not looking to race, but have power w/o cooking my engine.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on December 11, 2008, 09:34:45 pm
OLD            I still haven't got my block back yet.  
But it is bored and the machinist was impressed that the cylinder specs were to be within .001 when he said most all the other diesels he does are .003. I saw the block laying on the floor and he pointed and asked what is that though? I have searched and have no clue. There is something and it looks like it was threaded or put into the block right under the hole where the vacuum pump mounts. It is on the transmission side and he didn't notice it until it was cleaned. It looks only to be about an 1/8" hole. The question is what is it, how do I fix it, what is its use, and what information could you guys give me.

(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/32/l_21fd4e4f13644983a21e43297904353d.jpg)

Well I got it back and here is the pic of the "thing". It looks more like a pop rivot without the center part, but it doesn't get through the block so I think I am just going to run it. Let me know what that is please. I really don't think it is anything, but if it is clue me in.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: arb on December 12, 2008, 09:11:45 am
Is it possible it had a small tag on it and it is what's left from a pop rivet ? Often manufacturing tags higher end parts for the manufacturing process. Today its almost always a bar code if they want to track a part, but back then, maybe they tagged it where it would not interfere with anything else.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on December 13, 2008, 08:41:48 am
could be. I just wanted to know if anyone had seen or had issues with this before. like I said it looks like a pop rivot, but I don't think it is. There is no center to it. Main thing is that the hole where it is located does not go through the block and there isn't going to be water pressure or oil pressure so if there is a leak then I will use one of my 3 things that fix the world if all else fails...Zip ties, duct tape, and JB cold weld :D This would fall into the last of the 3. If you guys want I could take pics of the bores, but not much else is going on now. I need to get the car ready before engine going in.
Another note. I put the IM shaft in to see how it fit and it was so tight I didn't think it would go. When it left here it was so loose it came right out no problem. The machinist measured everything, so I know it is correct, but I couldn't believe the difference. I had him measure each piston and mark it and bore the hole for that piston. Each hole to the piston has around a +/- .0005 tolerance and I believe the spec for new bore was .001. I hope this all works as good as I have planned.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on January 02, 2009, 09:42:37 pm
I have 2 important questions and will be posting a pic later of the block.
1. I read the FAQ about 1.6TD a faster car...just to be clear are the blow off valve and wastegates needed at all?The way I understand I can delete the BOV and add a manual boost controller in place of the wastegate.

2. I have some lines like someone dropped a chisel on my deck of the block. The machinist that bored it said it was ok, but I don't like the looks of it. It looks like a HG failure waiting to happen. The 2nd question is how much can your block be taken down without it being too much?Pic to further explain comming.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on January 02, 2009, 09:56:04 pm
Quote from: "theman53"
I have 2 important questions and will be posting a pic later of the block.
1. I read the FAQ about 1.6TD a faster car...just to be clear are the blow off valve and wastegates needed at all?The way I understand I can delete the BOV and add a manual boost controller in place of the wastegate.



In order for the manual boost controller to work, you need the wastegate.
Blocking the wastegate that people are doing will mean there's no way to control max boost, other than by adjusting fuelling.
With a manual boost controller you can leave the W/G doing it's job but you will be able to set it to open at a desired boost pressure.

For example, I have a 1.15 bar waste gate spring on my Schwitzer turbo.
I will then use a manual boost controller to up the boost somewhere in the 2 bar range.

BTW, if you are planning on running a considerably higher boost pressure than stock, you may need a stronger waste gate spring if you want to youse the MBC to full effect.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on January 02, 2009, 10:03:57 pm
From my last post pics
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/57/l_0c9b63d40a4c461bb7e0a51e8c0b484e.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/21/l_fee67cb3f6e848e98750416309aec475.jpg)

I can't get any better pic. There are 2 lines leading from almost the waterjacket to almost the combustion ring and almost to the back of the block. The one to the combustion ring I can't get my fingernail into, the other I can. It was magnafluxed and came back good, but these just seem to make me nervous.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on January 02, 2009, 10:05:56 pm
the main reason I asked about the BOV was that I don't have one at all. THe intake I bought just doesn't have it on there. I will get a MBC and not block the wastegate? But could I just close the hole on the intake manifold for a BOV delete?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: cyrus #1 on January 02, 2009, 10:23:04 pm
Quote from: "theman53"
the main reason I asked about the BOV was that I don't have one at all. THe intake I bought just doesn't have it on there. I will get a MBC and not block the wastegate? But could I just close the hole on the intake manifold for a BOV delete?


The manual boost controller will need to be plumbed inline with the wastegate.  You can plug the blow off valve hole with no worries.  Just be sure that it will hold a decent amount of pressure.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on January 03, 2009, 11:03:51 am
Quote from: "theman53"
the main reason I asked about the BOV was that I don't have one at all. THe intake I bought just doesn't have it on there. I will get a MBC and not block the wastegate? But could I just close the hole on the intake manifold for a BOV delete?


Yeah, the blow-off is completely useless. I would just weld the hole shut and be done with it.

And yes, if you want to use an MBC, you can't block the waste gate. What the MBC does is allow you to choose when the wastegate will open. If it's blocked, it obviously won't open at all.
I think you really should go with an MBC rather than blocking the W/G.
A blocked waste gate will allow as much boost as the turbo can possibly produce, which means it will be operating way past its safe limits.
That'll lead to frequent turbo failures in the long run.

Some people think you get more power when you add more boost, but this is only true until a certain point. If you are constantly over cooking a turbo by letting it boost 30 psi when optimum range ends at 14 psi, the produced airflow will actually start to decrease when you go far enough over the turbo's limits.

One more thing about turbo pressure - psi isn't always equal to engine power by any means. You can tell just as much by looking at what type turbo the engine has. One real-life example: My old Saab 2.0 gas turbo would make 268 hp at 13 psi of boost on it's big motorsport turbocharger, while another similar car needed 24 psi to make as much hp with a standard, small turbo.

Don't go past the turbo's natural limits - it's a waste of energy and money  :wink:
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on January 03, 2009, 12:04:47 pm
Great to know. I am a turbo newbie and have researched a ton, but never actually owned one until the one that I have on the engine stand. I figured I would run about 18-20 psi eventually, but I don't know for sure. It will be my daily driver and needs to be reliable first. The 18-20 range is about where the guy who ported the head said I should have optimum power. Not that it couldn't do a little more, but he said with the porting and some valve overlap when you get in the upper 20s you will be loosing some cylinder pressure by blowing it out the exhaust. Which he said would give more spool but not enough for the gains for what I wanted in a daily driver. That plus more strain on the turbo left me with the idea of 18-20psi.
What about the crappy pics of the dents in the block and how much can you take off the deck?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on February 08, 2009, 10:39:11 am
OK I got all my bearings and I am ready to put the pistons in so I can measure the protrution. What can I use for a ring compressor? The one I have will never get down that small. I think its for 4.00-4.25" and our bore around 3".
Or is there a way to get the rings out without breaking them? It would work alot easier that way to check things and then the rings wouldn't be sitting there not moving for another 3 months. I want to be sure to get this correct as I am going to go with the MLS for the 1.9  and plug the extra hole. I will also drill the water holes, but I want to do all this while it is apart and I can clean it in the basement.
Any suggestions or things that you guys have done would be great.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: camboscams on February 08, 2009, 10:17:03 pm
Hey Guys, i'm way behind on asking this question but why do you turn down your Intermediate shaft? for less rotating mass? so the engine will rev quicker???         Just wondering, Thanks
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: jtanguay on February 08, 2009, 10:39:42 pm
Quote from: "camboscams"
Hey Guys, i'm way behind on asking this question but why do you turn down your Intermediate shaft? for less rotating mass? so the engine will rev quicker???         Just wondering, Thanks


every little bit helps  :lol: apparently it's not very balanced, and wobbles a lot on a lathe.  turning it down might actually increase bearing life... which is crucial for oil pressure etc.

it only spins at half rpm though, so it should never see more than 3000 rpm (and thats on a crazy Giles pump modded car)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: camboscams on February 08, 2009, 10:44:23 pm
Thanks JT for getting back so quickly. Strange that volkwagen made something that wasn't perfect.... They must have subbed out the Iitermediate shaft manufacturing to someone else :wink:
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Smokey Eddy on February 08, 2009, 11:23:00 pm
my ALH intake doesn't have a BOV spot either. I did that on purpose.  :roll:

I don't think it fits the 1.6td head though? I have it on an AAZ head
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on February 09, 2009, 07:34:09 am
what about a ring compressor what are you guys doing ?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: dillenger1 on February 09, 2009, 03:52:23 pm
Quote from: "theman53"
what about a ring compressor what are you guys doing ?

Using a ring compressor :D
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on February 10, 2009, 08:11:19 am
Yeah I guess I asked for that, any ideas or where is the best source to find one that goes this small that is good quality?
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: zukgod1 on February 10, 2009, 10:01:17 am
Ive had problems with ring compressors like that one.

I have one of those and a cheap one that has a Red handle on it and the ring compressor part is ribbed or wrinkled depending on how you want to describe it. I'll see if I can find a pic.
Anywho, the one posted above can get caught between the piston and the bore if your not careful and good luck getting it off without having to start over..

This is a bad pic but I think you can get what I mean.

(http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/pbi/648434.jpg)

Well actually you cant see it all all  :cry:  well the part that goes around the piston is shaped like an accordion.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: myke_w on February 10, 2009, 10:10:51 am
If you do use the sheetmetal ring compressor, be sure you get the thing very tight and hold it hard against the deck when you push the pistons in or else you'll destroy the ring land and the ring.

I like to use the handle end of a rubber mallet to push them in. I gently pop them in with light blows. A bit of oil on the rings helps too. Also be sure your ring gaps are not all alighned, I usually do 180 degrees out on each level.

GL  8)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: myke_w on February 10, 2009, 10:11:58 am
also good to see another diesel freak from Ohio ;)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: jtanguay on February 10, 2009, 11:47:34 am
Quote from: "myke_w"
If you do use the sheetmetal ring compressor, be sure you get the thing very tight and hold it hard against the deck when you push the pistons in or else you'll destroy the ring land and the ring.

I like to use the handle end of a rubber mallet to push them in. I gently pop them in with light blows. A bit of oil on the rings helps too. Also be sure your ring gaps are not all alighned, I usually do 180 degrees out on each level.

GL  8)


the ring gap alignment instructions that came with the rings i bought from you also had the 180 degrees out on each level as well  :D

very good geotz brand
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on February 10, 2009, 05:20:36 pm
Quote from: "libbybapa"
I use one like this:

(http://i19.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/2b/b5/8f90_1.JPG)

Can be had new at most any auto parts store, just make sure it fits the piston size.

Andrew


that is exactly what I have but it is for larger than 4" bore...and I hate it even for that. It can get lodged in between the bore and the piston if you get it nice and tight and if you don't the rings will hit...of course that is the 4" version and those IIRC had a much more looser tolerance than this .001" diesel.

I like the one Zukgod has, but I don't know where to go to get it. I guess I will check fleebay.

MYKE W  I will be contacting you as soon as I get the pistons in to measure protrusion for the MLS head gasket. I am also going to get the big papa oil pump and the nice baffled gasket for the oil pan, but I am cheap and will only pay for shipping once :D
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Smokey Eddy on February 10, 2009, 05:24:19 pm
I used this one :
(http://i19.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/2b/b5/8f90_1.JPG)
a 1/4" drive fits into it, i dont know why you'd need a special key :P maybe if you didn't have any other tools and you somehow got the pistons out without using a 1/4" drive for anything.
after breaking two rings two seperate times trying to use this other one..
(http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/pbi/648434.jpg)
 But it may have been too big...


I had no trouble at all with the sleeve one. Just oil it up like crazy.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 21, 2009, 09:52:32 am
I am working in my basement and have uncovered the engine to take some pics of what has been going on. I am almost finished polishing the VC. The Block is going to be Chevy orange and everything bolted to it will be Gloss black. The valve cover is undecided though. I sanded the paint and junk off of it and now like the looks of it so I might just do the VW letters in Chevy orange and clear the rest or black the rest...maybe you guys could let me know what you think.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/67/l_a4c34c82870a42ca843da18a10c14203.jpg)

(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/66/l_6340e0958d6d4ae58e64945a7ef24b90.jpg)

(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/68/l_1de652fe9d494c92befb5a0de003fe9a.jpg)

(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/84/l_1866676151ec46109d96a34252fc0b7d.jpg)

(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/76/l_7c6cc85851754eac9f3b34fea141032a.jpg)

(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/90/l_ec78b1cdc9c94eb6808398f4bc53d7a9.jpg)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 24, 2009, 09:39:51 pm
I have differnet stages of polishing on the valve cover.

My question is what to do with it. should I paint it black with the chevy orange VW or just polish it completely and clear it?

Also what do you think of the old basement engine overhual? LOL I told my friend about it and he asked " how in the hell are you getting it up the stairs?" He didn't realize these things aren't a small block chevy or ford. I think the bentley says they are only around 200 lbs assembled. I told him I would carry it out the same as I brought it in. :D
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Vincent Waldon on March 24, 2009, 11:38:17 pm
Quote from: "theman53"
maybe you guys could let me know what you think.


I think that I hope you're not frying a turkey down there... would ruin the nice polish job you did on the VC. ;-)

Quote from: "theman53"
Also what do you think of the old basement engine overhual? LOL I told my friend about it and he asked " how in the hell are you getting it up the stairs?"


During university I was "between garages" and stored a spare Beetle motor on the balcony of the apartment I was living in at the time. Two of us easily lifted it up seemingly endless flights of stairs... good thing the balcony was high enough that the super never noticed. ;-)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: dieselweasel on March 25, 2009, 01:37:19 am
Quote from: "theman53"
He also found a sleeve for the intermediate shaft.


Any idea where a person might find one of these sleeves?  My I-shaft has a groove in it...I replaced the seal but it still leaks.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 25, 2009, 07:49:32 am
I think if I remember it was for a toyota of some type. There was another guy on here that had the same thing done, but I don't know where that post is. If someone doesn't pipe up I will call the machinist tomorrow and find out.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: dieselweasel on March 26, 2009, 12:28:23 am
Thanks.  You're "the man"!   :lol:
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 01, 2009, 06:53:51 pm
Seeing Turbo J say I have been doing something else besides drinking beer got me to thinking about the Jetta of mine that this engine is going into. You guys haven't seen this beauty :D I have some work to do and I am not painting it until I have the engine perfect. I just wanted to have a rust extermination before the engine went in. I also am not putting the engine in until the car is ready that way the rings won't be sitting doing nothing for months. Sorry to bore you but here is some of the ground work. I have already welded the seat belt back in and now as you see am contemplating the floor...re-floor  :shock:
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/85/l_230c96133357435785da988bb016b693.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/110/l_193f88c0c16d428cabef0a8c4438d6a1.jpg)

Not the best car but the fender and driver floor are the only spots of rust on the car that are bad. I am relaxing now, but will hopefully have some welded in place by sunday. If I can get half of it done that will be perfect. Lots of work ......
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/93/l_e151491914cd4c0b85fe549506d422cf.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/83/l_397097312d1346eea5d257dd295a9fdc.jpg)
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: CoolAirVw on April 05, 2009, 06:54:27 pm
Keep up the good work.  I just wanted to say when you get under the car pull the brake lines down, just move them out of the way, no need to open the system, wire wheel and "treat" the little studs that the brake line clips fasten too, with rust treatment.  Those studs/clips hold water and make rust.

There used to be a stud in this picture but instead there is a rust hole.  The dark spot in the middle is carpet.

(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k286/coolairvw/Brake-line-rust.jpg)

Several of my brake line clip studs had similar holes.  

After replacing 1/4 floor, I treated mine with por 15 products and then undercoated.  I soaked the studs with undercoating spray, then pressed the brake line clips back on.

See my thread here...

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6255
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 05, 2009, 10:07:20 pm
Thanks for the advice. I have this spray galvanizing stuff I sell at work that I am using right now and will epoxy primer and undercoat it all when I am finished. I am also welding in *galvanized* sheet metal. I have milk and a respirator and a blow gun and I hold my breath while welding...I don't even feel sick :lol: .  I know its poisonous but I am taking every precaution and it is working so far.

 I welded most of the day today. I got the back of the drivers side lip done...not the entire back 1/4 just the lip that stiffens it all up. I also got some of the pass side holes fixed.

 My problem now is how much do I want to weld? Or what should I weld? I obviously need to fix the holes, but where to stop.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 19, 2009, 10:51:58 pm
I found out today that if you grind the surface about 1/4" to 1/2" off the edge of the galvanized plate that the fumes are next to nothing :D . I have 1 or 2 more welds on the passenger side and then I will move to the drivers side. I have taken every little clip out and welded it shut and sprayed my cold galvanizing compound on it. So far I have learned to mig weld pretty good, I could always arc, but the mig hated me. Best advice a guy gave me was PUSH the mig. I was used to PULLING the arc and that was 1/2 the battle. I will post pics hopefully tomorrow.
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on April 20, 2009, 02:54:32 am
Good work, mate!
All these little beauties need is a little love, and you're clearly showing yours just that! Bet she's going to turn into a monster with that new heart though  :twisted:
Title: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 02, 2009, 06:23:56 pm
I have finally decided what to do with the floor and made some progress. I am now out of shielding gas again...I am positive that TSC screwed me on this batch :evil:  Well here is some pics I got a lot more to go but at least now I can get my head around it.
This one I wanted to see how seamless I could make it and it turned out perfect. All of the gray is cold galvanize not primer.
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/94/l_d8e72aa3a5794b92af98f916bc79b9d5.jpg)
I did this to strengthen the seat bracket and have something to weld to
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/110/l_ecb11e93743549b99263760cb3fb5c4f.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/94/l_f6e18734824b49b49f009bd17ce46fac.jpg)
I am going to weld this piece of conduit to make it more rigid
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/71/l_82f7f49df8e1463c9b0dab8994be97e1.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/79/l_a40df69139574aa3a712d757f6f53de3.jpg)
Hillbilly Tools and shop= my brake
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/112/l_4f1a9be728fc45028e5db2f2010dba19.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/102/l_c6a038b47f4341caa831c9c998655019.jpg)
couple of shots of the old floor
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/97/l_582be788e3fd4631b7ab976420271a2e.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/83/l_19de9affa2864483b4e9a77acd3270bf.jpg)
Finally my biggest challenge and hold up TACKED in place
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/107/l_3c444cdfd88d4facacda0b017bc7a648.jpg)

It would have been easier for my cheap --- to buy a rust free car and have it shipped, but at least now I will have some Galvanized pannels and shouldn't do this again. I still have the fender, front part of the floor, and a little piece on the passenger side to deal with but it won't be long. Oh and I am going to replace part of the battery tray since it is missing too.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 22, 2009, 06:20:27 pm
Look what has happend here since the site was down. Thanks to Zuk and 53 willys for clutch recommendation. It is a clutchnet 210mm red pp with a 210mm 6 spring 6 puck red disc with the small 24 spline hub. I think it is the setup for the 8v scirocco? Anyway I have a scheme for my engine color what do you think?
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/72/l_18c4bd868f1d43edb22e68cb914958ed.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/105/l_3eb0fe615ee0489583608a20b6f84c53.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/77/l_0c4ba01b883b4f30ae499dcec3b801f8.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/65/l_7e9f0c03d2724d0b8604ae82c04ae6cc.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/68/l_3cc616b61a134e4f9bd5a8b6f532ebc3.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/109/l_60ce5aa492824d9f9d165788ae1c2162.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/65/l_1dc234a4847e4ba3b4e252213ff35fa8.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/105/l_cc7b2a9031b14b839fb5abeaf1bdd567.jpg)

Have you figured out what the scheme is yet? A little more welding and then put the engine together...maybe in June I will have it going:D It won't be too pretty, but I want to make sure the thing runs before I paint it next summer. If I get that ambitious.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Rabbit on Roids on May 23, 2009, 02:12:34 pm
i really dig the chevy orange engine. its gonna have at LEAST 50 more horses just cause of that sexy paint job.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on May 24, 2009, 07:09:56 am
i really dig the chevy orange engine. its gonna have at LEAST 50 more horses just cause of that sexy paint job.

Easy.. and much more Sex Appeal. Loooooking gooooood Lucas!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on May 25, 2009, 06:00:41 pm
Wow.
Really good looking engine parts!

I hope mine will look even half that good...

Good luck with your project!

P.S.  Your inlet mani will soon be on its way to your door...  ;)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: macka on June 13, 2009, 12:04:08 am
my brother made a small vent for welding by using a duct vent pusher fan, a length of dryer hose, and a floor vent. He put the floor vent section right to the suction side of the duct fan section, and the dryer hose goes away from you. I've used it twice for floor work inside a trunk and inside the cockpit. It sucks out most of the fumes, and gets them out of the area you are working.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 17, 2009, 09:48:51 pm
Well I put a hole in the oil pan tonight...on purpose I needed a turbo drain. I also have been busy on the intake side. Also, someone wanted a picture of what the log style manifold looked like inside so here it is. I ported a bunch to get this to match the gasket. I had it welded before I started because I knew it would be thin on the back side.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/86/l_a791b3658af549b98462554942f6e844.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/71/l_3137b0d632e44f39bae01944282d5ea2.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/66/l_37a2ad0acb9f470598931d06b78431d4.jpg)
I also wanted it to stay with the color scheme so black it is.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/96/l_1199ecf40c014558b37ae0cd46d9aceb.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lovinthedeez on July 18, 2009, 01:01:22 am
please tell me more about your beautiful cis intake pleasey. :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 18, 2009, 08:52:48 am
This was a long time comming. Turbo J and the AKI-76 were a team on this. Aki built it and Turbo J did the paperwork stuff.
    I wanted something built and after talking to people I realized that unless they gave me the super secret mathwork for the slot in the plennum I couldn't do it. Aki said he would do it for a really reasonalbe price, then all I had to do was wait 6 months and grind away like you see here. It is actually not a CIS intake I believe he said it was for a D24 6 cylinder that he hacked a cylinder off of. It could have been something else or a 5 cylinder, but I am almost sure it was a volvo part. The ports didn't match the gasket at all well so I had to take off about a 1/4" all the way around and after porting the stock VW intake and this one I can say for sure that this one has a way harder grade aluminum. Polished it with some of my 3M 777F cartridge rolls which are more for metal/stainless and it didn't load like usual. That is about all I can tell you.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lovinthedeez on July 18, 2009, 10:33:30 am
so how much would it cost if i found said manifold, and did said porting, and sent it out.  don't care how long it takes, take another month if six isn't enough.  you could im me if you'd like.  that thing is a beaut.   :P
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 19, 2009, 05:14:39 pm
Any ideas???
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/98/l_4415a385510c490fa2dc3192d09b9d5f.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/68/l_789e4381cd6e41f9bd28e02bd5afe76b.jpg)

I have no idea what I am going to do now, I sold the stock intake to pay for this partially.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 19, 2009, 05:38:10 pm
hmmm.. make a piece to go in between? Arb would be the perfect person to come up with a solution im sure.. :) seeing all his crazy innovative ways to get things to work.

A piece that would bolt to the mani, then have the turbo bolt to it.. 45 or so degrees from its original position.. only then would you clear the chassis? dang.. hmm
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 19, 2009, 05:52:13 pm
I have a spacer that I got off of 53 willy's when I buzzarded his downpipe, but it is only about 1" thick an not tapered. Which tapered is a great idea I might just be able to do that, but as that is it still would need to be thicker as the bolt holes are no where near close to being correct. I need to go and see if the valve cover will be able to get on and off when the intake is installed.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on July 19, 2009, 06:25:30 pm
Flip the exhaust manifold or do what guilianot (sp) did and build spacers to push the exhaust manifold out from the head
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 19, 2009, 06:38:53 pm
I will have to cut the intake and exhaust more. I had to cut it to fit now as the turbo flange of the exhaust mani hit the intake runners. Do you think it the KKK K24 will fit upside down if I do cut it and will my downpipe work?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 19, 2009, 06:49:48 pm
It isn't usable as is. I just tried to get the valve cover on it and without the intake comming off there is no way and it doesn't have studs in it yet...and when I took it off and put it on it was fine until I tried to put the hockey puck in. I really wish I hadn't sold the TD intake that I ported. I could cut that off and cut this one up and weld the 2 together in a different orientation. If I make spacers for the exhaust manifold I will have to refab the downpipe and the spacers would be about 2.5" long to get it to clear. Both manifolds will have to be ground down to flip it and then everything that bolts to it will need fab work again. This pretty much sucks.

I still don't know what to do. ???
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on July 21, 2009, 10:27:23 am
Kinda running into the same problem with mine.  I'm just using a stock A2 gasser manifold, but I'll have to flip the turbo manifold as well, which requires grinding of both manifolds at the flange to make them fit.  Though with me, I have not built the downpipe yet so at least I'm not running into a wall with that.

I'd say flip it anyway, building a new downpipe would probably be easier than trying to make everything fit the "correct" way.

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on July 21, 2009, 01:12:07 pm
Wow, this intake project has really had its twists....  ::)

I just talked about this problem with Aki on the phone, and somehow it seems, the idea of using the stock exhaust manifold had missed him. Thinking about it, even with the OE intake manifold, there's hardly any room between the mani and the K24 turbo, so there can't possibly be enough room for the Volvo intake runners, if the stock turbo sits in stock position.

This is all very frustrating, and frankly we all would already have wanted to see all the pieces just drop in place, but that's not how it's gone... I don't know who it was that originally misunderstood the starting point, but as the original discussions were so long a time ago, nobody can really remember now. Aki just told me 'of course it won't fit like that', so I believe he hasn't realised a stock exhaust mani would be used,  at the time he was making the intake.

To be able to use the intake, and use its very real benefits, maybe the exhaust manifold can be flipped? Or maybe an extension welded onto it, like I have on my 1Y exh mani? I think there are possibilities. Switch to a stock intake now? Two steps back IMHO. I would very much like to see everything find its course, and this to become the FrankenMotor it's always promised to become, also with a proper intake manifold  ;)
About the breather 'hockey puck'; Aki quoted some people have shortened the connector, and the rubber piece it sits on, and some have fitted a slimmer puck, found on some IDI engines. The valve cover going on and off without pulling the manifold - I think that may be impossible though... ...use easy-to-open intake bolts, I guess.

Anyone with good ideas is welcome to assist, how best to make things fit.
I think us sad, mad diesel heads of Finland, we can sometimes forget someone's using stock parts on their engines  :-[
As always with custom parts, unfortunately there can be surprises, and definetely when people have a different memory of what was the plan originally. The forum shutting down when it did and erasing most old PMs didn't really help here I guess. Some creative tinkering is bound to be necessery at the best of times when doing stuff like this though. I just hope a solution will present itself, so everybody can be happy.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Rabbit on Roids on July 21, 2009, 03:04:33 pm
i would just flip the manifold and re clock the turbo and make some new oil/drain lines. i like how easy it is to work on these vw's with low mounted turbos.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 21, 2009, 07:30:45 pm
I am going to put a stock one on it for now. Maybe I will hack this one up, maybe if he wants to send a call tag I could ship it back, maybe he'll throw in a custom exhaust manifold  ;) . I have already a made up downpipe, both oil lines, and like to be able adjust valves without removing everything bolted to the back of the head, so changing the position of the turbo now isn't an option. I got a TD intake last night from my gasser drag racing buddy for free that I will use for now and I might buy the one in the FS section. With the FS section one I will cut it up and maybe make one out of that and this one that doesn't work. I would rather find someone that would take this and I could have another made that would fit and settle all losses with AKI. The Workmanship was excellent and I have no problem with what work he has done except it is not for my application. At this point I will let him decide what he would like to do.

The dumbest part was I didn't even check for fittment before welding it for strength and then porting it...Man that was dumb on my part.

Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: MJF on July 22, 2009, 12:29:30 am
Too bad if you choose not to use Aki's manifold :(  you'd be happy with results. The bad part of using custom parts is that you usually have to modify other parts to get it fit. Unbolting intake is 2 minutes job with low mounted turbo, don't be afraid to flip exhaust manifold.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 22, 2009, 08:37:41 am
If the downpipe and oil lines weren't made I would flip it right now. It is just too much to change and I wan't the car running ASAP. I really don't want to change all that stuff after what I have gotten into with it now.

I am really hoping that AKI would build me another in 1 day and send it the next and I could sell this one to someone on here and everyone would be happy.

I think this intake would be great for the VNT setup now that I think about it.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on July 22, 2009, 09:35:40 am
If you flipped the exhaust manifold you only have to grind the stud bosses so they are symmetrical and it will fit.  The intake will not need to be ground. [/img]

Sweet!  I thought it would be more complicated than that.  Thanks!!!

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Aki-76 on July 22, 2009, 11:33:14 am
its 15min job to flip exhaust
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on July 22, 2009, 04:08:00 pm
We're going to try to fix this..
Give me a couple of days and I'll see what Aki can come up with, we all hope for a solution that would suit everybody.
Theman, I'll throw a PM at you as soon as I can make that conversation!

Meanwhile, good luck with everything else!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 27, 2009, 10:58:19 pm
Until I get something worked out I figured I would do something with the stock intake. I was going with everything bolted onto the engine being black but when I cleaned this up I don't know what to do. It really looks good so I am thinking about clear??? I don't have my HG yet and really don't want to tackle the fender and paint right now so I have had a lot of time to do this type of stuff...

(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/78/l_5ff5af6760d64d2e9e7fbb819c538643.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/77/l_031f9e61060942b8966e77ab7cb3186c.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/5/l_d73416e5b5f44b4188a4a56564d06029.jpg)
I don't know for sure but I bet I took about a pound of material out of that intake and the elbow going into it. I tried to shape the #1 and #4 pathways to the ports differently, so they weren't as restricted. Thinking being that #2 and #3 won't be as biased. I ground all of the ports to match my head ports shape and matches the gasket size.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: TurboJ on July 30, 2009, 04:37:06 am
PM sent.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 21, 2009, 10:35:53 pm
I bought a house and for the last 3 weeks it has been killing me. 3 sinks, 2 toilets, one bathroom subfloor, 2 bathroom tile floors, fixed one wall, ripped down one wall for fridge to fit, 1 house water filter, fixed one ceiling fan, installed 1 ceiling fan, mudding the walls now that I ripped apart, brush hogged the lawn 5.5 hours, and the biggest pain and $$$ was putting on the roof new steel and ripped off the old shingles.

I say all that to say this...all I have got to do on the Jetta is make a rubber piece for the MLS HG, finished putting in the heater/AC cores, and the new resistor for the fan. I wanted to be driving this thing a month ago. I won't be doing much either until we get moved in. This is frustrating.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 1outof5 on August 22, 2009, 02:55:57 am
I bought a house and for the last 3 weeks it has been killing me. 3 sinks, 2 toilets, one bathroom subfloor, 2 bathroom tile floors, fixed one wall, ripped down one wall for fridge to fit, 1 house water filter, fixed one ceiling fan, installed 1 ceiling fan, mudding the walls now that I ripped apart, brush hogged the lawn 5.5 hours, and the biggest pain and $$$ was putting on the roof new steel and ripped off the old shingles.

I say all that to say this...all I have got to do on the Jetta is make a rubber piece for the MLS HG, finished putting in the heater/AC cores, and the new resistor for the fan. I wanted to be driving this thing a month ago. I won't be doing much either until we get moved in. This is frustrating.

Ya I know how that feels  >:( I've had my caddy off the road since december, just for a quick engine swap ... still not running
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Pillow on August 22, 2009, 04:35:13 pm
Keep chuggin' man!  Moving is a bear though. 

Just take your time and the diesel will be fired up soon enough :)  I want to see a dyno sheet on that bad boy!!!

Plus you have a double whammy work wise with all the rust repair you  have been doing.

Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on August 24, 2009, 10:00:53 am
I hear that.  We bought my wife's car back in October, what was originally going to be a re-ring and go job ended up being a huge project.  I was hoping to have it running this month, but it looks like it will be next month.  Oh well, should be worth it!  It's just frustrating.  Especially now, we are in the homestretch but money is tight and there is only a few more things we need.

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 24, 2009, 06:11:49 pm
Yeah...I have had this car for 3 years. It ran for 1 week :'(. When I finally figured it out that it was too low on compression to run that was about this time last year. That is where this thread takes off. I really don't know when it will run as I am headed out the door now to sand some drywall and hopefully paint. IF I am in there this weekend maybe next weekend I will start back on the car...which is at my parents farm so I will have 40 minutes less working time than before for driving over here. At least I got a spot and a car to work on.

It has been so long I think I am going to paint it while it is down. I was saving that for next year. I wanted to do something sweet, but it will just get a nice new coat of factory something blue poly.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 05, 2009, 07:54:57 pm
so I don't even remember where I was when I last stopped working on the car.

I have taken the dash out. Ran speaker wire. Put in a new a/c evap. Put in a new heater core. Refoamed all of the tubing for the vents. Cut the heck out of the center console for gauges someday. Put the dash back in. Welded the turbo oil return into the pan. Took the front of the car off and almost all of the engine stuff so it is pretty much ready to pull...except for a pesky speedo gear/cable.

Once all of that is done I am going to cut up the fender and put one on that charlie got for me. Then hopefully throw some decent paint on all of it real quick before winter. Anybody got any suggestions how to get it done?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on October 06, 2009, 11:36:12 am
I know some guys that would be happy to do a quick scuff and shoot.  They don't charge normal body shop prices either.  :)  Let me know if you want the contact info.  They are just outside of Danville, near Apple Valley.  It's not a commercial shop, just some guys who do it as a hobby, I work with them too whenever I have the spare time.

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 06, 2009, 06:33:26 pm
Definately will consider that, sounds good for my time constraints. I need to get something going soon...my wife called me today at work and said she found a VW beetle for 3,500 and wants me to sell all of my stuff and get it. It is GAS not a TDI beetle, so now I have to hurry to get it done.
I have a bunch of paint supplies, but not enough time to put together a thought right now let alone paint something.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on December 20, 2009, 02:54:25 pm
So I basically haven't been working on the car. Cold and deer season has been in so I haven't had time, and I am about completely out of money.

I cut up some of the fender that Dakotakid Charlie sent me and the one on my jetta. It isn't as bad as it looks. I am going to buy a Miller 250 for 800.00 with everything but the argon bottle to finish that and I will have it for whatever after that. After seeing smoking eddys post about rings it got me thinking and I can't remember what I had for rings in there, so I bought the Goetze set and installed them. I cut the remaining pieces for the seat braket to weld up when I get the welder. Cleaned up the carpet the best I could. I fought with and the VW is still winning ... I think it is VW 3 Lucas 0 ... with the speedo cable and still can't get the gear out of the trans. I can see it, grab it, and wiggle it side to side, but it will not move out of there. I bolted the timing brackets on and have been thinking about doing the water pump, but that is easy stuff when in the car with no IP on, so I haven't.
Something I did as well when it was still warm out I took my junk HG cleaned it up and bolted the head on. Then I loosened them and bolted it back up twice. I left it bolted up for about a month until it was cold and took it apart. I did that just to experiment. I have heard several times to torque and re torque the ARP studs, especially the con rods and I believe it is probably for stress relief. I figured it wouldn't hurt to do this for the head studs with the used HG I had to get them relieved a little.

It has been too cold for me to work on things now since the garage isn't heated. By garage I mean a quonset hut style barn with an opening in the back that cannot be closed. Deer season is almost over and for the most part has been the worst one for me in 10 years. So I am ready to work on the car again.

I will update hopefully in a couple months, but just wanted to let you all know what is up.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on March 11, 2010, 11:41:47 pm
Lucas it has been a couple months any progress bromosexual? ;)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 12, 2010, 12:23:42 am
 :-X

Just kidding. It has finally this week went from 20 some degrees to about 60. Next week it could be 10. If you don't like the central ohio weather just wait 5 minutes it will change.

I took the engine from the farm garage where the car is and put it in my basement at my new house. I am planning on dissassembling it and taking the crank to my amish friend and having it machined for the D cranksproket. Then I will reassemble.
 
Last weekend I cut my IM pulley down with a carbide burr and then smoothed it up with some sandpaper. I chucked the pulley into my drill with an arbor and got it done.

I have been really thinking about buying a VNT. I think it is a 15 and don't think it will be big enough for what I want, but I still want it.

I bought a Miller 250 that hadn't had 10 spools of wire ran through it in 5 years with a full spool of .035" wire and a cart. Now I can finish the body work and seat brackets. Well as soon as I find a tank. They are about 245 dollars for what I want...did I mention that the welder was only 800.00 :D

I really need to make sure the heater system is working and then get this thing going. I would like to paint it too.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on March 12, 2010, 12:25:53 am
cosmetic comes last Lucas ;)

get it runnin and stoppin and drive it like you stole it. then worry bout rust/paint later. its the only way to do it without going bankrupt lol
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 12, 2010, 12:35:12 am
Have you seen the pics of this thing? It wasn't so much of making it look nice as it was not falling out through the floor  :o  I just know how I am and once it goes down the road it will be sooo much harder for me to put it in to paint. Plus if I do it like I did the truck doors I can probably get it all ready and shoot it in the evening and it will be ready to go the next day.

I still forgot about brakes and exhaust...I can run just my downpipe for a little bit...I knew I shouldn't have fixed the hole in the floor until after I had brakes 8)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: macka on March 13, 2010, 08:46:42 am
That hole in the floor is a pitch tuning speedometer bro  8) the faster your car goes, the higher it whistles  ;D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 13, 2010, 08:48:51 am
yeah look back on page 5...the hole was biggend and welded. Yeah it was bad. I was going to go out this morning to the farm and work, but it is the little ones 5th birthday party and the wife frowned on it
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: macka on March 13, 2010, 09:00:02 am
jeez, thats a gap. Wives always frown, its in their job description
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on March 13, 2010, 09:25:36 am
Yeah I understand her point and I want to be here too. I could have done both though. I might work on something yet today. I still need to find an argon bottle-cheaper that is.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 08, 2010, 11:43:55 pm
Driver side welded.
I need to weld in a fender portion on the pass. rear and a hole in the pass. floor pan and I believe the welding will be done. I would also like to weld the holes shut on the part of the rear fenders that hold that plastic peice. Then use filler to level it out.

Then I think I am going to figure out what to do with the paint on it. I would like just to take it back close to the factory finish. 20 plus years of road and it has chips all over it...not to mention a giant hole in the passenger rear fender I am going to weld up.

I took the crank out of the engine last night and to the machinists today. Having it cut for the D sprocket so if I get enough cash to setup a serp system or have a big audio setup I won't have any crank issues.

Should pull the old engine and trans this weekend if the tractor is there. I would like to split them and see about a bolt kit and possibly a locker. Which leads me to my next question, what is available for a limited slip diff? Someone was talking about a 40% kit??? I just want to price it and see. If it is too much I will probably just buy a used 020 or 02A later when I can afford it. If it is reasonable I would love to attempt it or see if my buddy Troy can help me with it. Any ideas or places to look for trans LSD/40% kit would be awesome. I think brokevw has a walkthrough on how, I just need to know what.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on April 09, 2010, 12:02:15 am
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TT498082&Category_Code=TTLimitedSlipDiff (http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TT498082&Category_Code=TTLimitedSlipDiff)

i tried to find it on the peloquin website.. but i could not for the life of me... i found an %80 kit tho..
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on April 09, 2010, 12:04:37 am
Found it! a %40 kit

http://www.peloquins.com/products_40.html (http://www.peloquins.com/products_40.html)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 09, 2010, 12:06:55 am
 :o :o :o

That is a little more than I want to spend. Good find though.

I don't get it I can buy a locker for a 9" ford, Dana 44, 60, or the corperate series for 1/2 of that or less...must be the import nature.

edit just saw the 40% kit...I like it. Now to find the bolt kit and figure out how to make it work :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on April 09, 2010, 12:08:05 am
http://www.peloquins.com/products_bolt_kits.html (http://www.peloquins.com/products_bolt_kits.html)

;)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on April 09, 2010, 06:34:32 am
Driver side welded.
I need to weld in a fender portion on the pass. rear and a hole in the pass. floor pan and I believe the welding will be done. I would also like to weld the holes shut on the part of the rear fenders that hold that plastic peice. Then use filler to level it out.

Then I think I am going to figure out what to do with the paint on it. I would like just to take it back close to the factory finish. 20 plus years of road and it has chips all over it...not to mention a giant hole in the passenger rear fender I am going to weld up.

I took the crank out of the engine last night and to the machinists today. Having it cut for the D sprocket so if I get enough cash to setup a serp system or have a big audio setup I won't have any crank issues.

Should pull the old engine and trans this weekend if the tractor is there. I would like to split them and see about a bolt kit and possibly a locker. Which leads me to my next question, what is available for a limited slip diff? Someone was talking about a 40% kit??? I just want to price it and see. If it is too much I will probably just buy a used 020 or 02A later when I can afford it. If it is reasonable I would love to attempt it or see if my buddy Troy can help me with it. Any ideas or places to look for trans LSD/40% kit would be awesome. I think brokevw has a walkthrough on how, I just need to know what.

question: where can I get more info on this D-SPROCKET thing, I am pretty sure that it is for me, being that my build will go into a completely different ca, and run multiple accessories.

thanks,

Kevin
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on April 09, 2010, 10:57:14 am
i believe it is merely machining your crank nose for a TDI sprocket, nothin fancy.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Rabbit on Roids on April 09, 2010, 01:38:06 pm
its not some magical crank improvement, just take and cut a TDI style nose on the crank and run the TDI sprocket. you honestly probably wont even need it unless you are going to be running power steering, ac, an alt, and other things.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 09, 2010, 05:33:33 pm
its not some magical crank improvement, just take and cut a TDI style nose on the crank and run the TDI sprocket. you honestly probably wont even need it unless you are going to be running power steering, ac, an alt, and other things.

To me it is chicken soup for a cold. It isn't needed, but can't hurt anything. I am going to eventually setup A/C and higher output alt on a serp setup. I just don't want to chance it on this build after 3 years. The other maybe fine, but I am going the safe route as I don't have it in the car.

BTW..."as I don't have it in the car" meaning engine, that phrase has cost me about 1,000 dollars. There have been 20 things I have done in the up to 100 dollar range that have added up. Just because the engine wasn't in the car yet and I might as well do it now kind of thing. I hope to get it done soon though.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 09, 2010, 07:36:34 pm

PELOQUIN 020 80% KIT  Name: PELOQUIN 020 80% KIT
Part Number: 020498080az
Price: $95.99
Description: FITS 83 & UP 020 WITH 100MM CV more info (application guide)
Quantity in Stock: 2
Ground Shipping: $FREE GROUND IN THE LOWER 48 STATES

   
So how do I know if the 86 jetta I got has 100mm cv's???

Also, this is the best price I found for a bolt kit 53.99...http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?itemPerPage=30&langId=-1&Ntk=all&catalogId=10002&Ne=2&Ntt=gears&storeId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchall&N=4294965419 (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?itemPerPage=30&langId=-1&Ntk=all&catalogId=10002&Ne=2&Ntt=gears&storeId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchall&N=4294965419)

anybody have a better spot?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Rabbit on Roids on April 09, 2010, 07:41:51 pm
http://scirocco.org/ (http://scirocco.org/)

click on gears at the bottom of the page. the small lower table has all the trannies broken down by flange size. just locate your tranny code on it. im thinkin you have 90mm hubs tho. but i dont see why there would be a difference. they are completely interchangeable, and do the same damn thing.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on April 10, 2010, 12:25:28 am
I am using the franken engine in the Toyota MR2 Spyder, 250-300 BHP in a 2400 lb vehicle could be fun ;D :o I will need the d-sprocket for all of the acc. to bolt up.  this thread is going to be useful, because I also need to find a tranny and need to work out some details using cv's etc.  No jack intended, just sourcing out some much needed info, and sorting some problems.

thanks,

Kevin
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 11, 2010, 12:35:39 am
Engine and trans are out. I have an AGS trans and seemed to like it the little I drove it. Do they have 90mm flange or 100? It seems like it is so close now, but I know I have so much to do. I want to take apart the waste gate of the turbo and make sure everything is fine there. I need to paint it. If I am going to go serp I should do it now before I do any A/C stuff, but I don't know about the serp a/c setup at all. I am going to throw some paint at it. I need to buy a speedo cable *LOL-for those that helped* I need to figure out how to put my CV joint back together as it came apart when I was rolling it around.
I think I should get the flywheel resurfaced with the pressure plate as I haven't ran this 1.9L flywheel yet. I want to do a bolt kit and the 80% kit for the drive axles. I still will need brake lines to the rear and a new prop valve as my old one puked more DOT 3 than anything I have ever seen.
Plus, I still need to get the engine together and timed up. Shoud be fun eventhough it is a long way out.
I installed a new rear pass side mount. The old one must not have been bad as the new seemed like it had more give than the old, but I figured while I was there I should do it. I still need to build an intake as well.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 21, 2010, 10:21:27 am
Ordered parts. Got the 80% kit and the missing links shifter kit. Next will be the ring gear bolt kit and then I can tear it apart and put it all back together.
Gary said the 80% kit was easier to use on the 100mm shafts. He said I could use them on the 90mm I just have to radius the edges a little so that it won't unscrew the bolt. The 90mm only have a little clearance and he just wants it to be sure that it doesn't back out.

Looks like A/C might not happen this year as I still need to have exhaust, brakes, and a little paint...plus all the labor before I can get this on the road.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 21, 2010, 10:57:07 am
Just to show you guys some kind of pics here is what is left.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/121/l_22d5aa7d1f3c4372bf19a9e71297aca4.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/117/l_a07f9888eeaf4908a289c95783379d7a.jpg)
I made a tool to get the bolts out of the clutch area from an old head bolt that I welded to an old main bolt. With a little paint it fits really snug, without it had some slop.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/135/l_d88ec2a3dd6d45599d9056e93cbf938c.jpg)
Rust repaired on drivers side
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/137/l_8b425ccb34b34b71a330c3680d189ef0.jpg)
This is the final mess on the passenger side.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/144/l_ac2a7f00e8904acc9e7374e02a1cb504.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: GEE-BEE on April 21, 2010, 11:46:16 am
I ordered my axles with 100 Inners and 90 mm outers

Just saved time

I used disc adapters for my the mk1 for the G60 brakes

keep it up !
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: rodpaslow on April 21, 2010, 11:56:48 am
This is a MK2, I have a 1.6NA that I changed to 100mm cv's.  You don't need the 90mm outers.  Standard 100mm complete shafts will fit a MK2 car with a 100mm tranny - just FYI.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 24, 2010, 09:52:25 am
Got my 80% kit yesterday. It came in a box about the size of a pack of playing cards...for 117.-- shipped. I hope that my ring gear bolts come soon. Summit matched the price of Jegs at 53.99 and I talked them out of the 9.99 handling fee. They had to ship it direct from ARP since it wasn't in stock, I said dude 9.99 for handling something you are not even going to touch? He gave it up :D...man I am a cheap SOB
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 24, 2010, 09:11:55 pm
I got a little scared today.

I almost burnt the car to the ground. I was going to try to finish the welding on the car so I could put it all together. Everything went fine, I just finished the rear passenger floor pan. Then I smelled kerosene and thought "weird why do I smell kerosene? What could have kerosene in it? This car is...DIESEL!" Just as I thought it the fire started roaring.

Apparently when the previous owner deleted the water separator he zip tied the fuel line right under where I was welding. Me being an idiot didn't worry when I caught the zip tie on fire. Just as I don't care when the undercoating lights up a little. I just have a small cup of water and when I am finished welding I put it out. Not the case here. The zip tie on fire that I didn't realize what it held, melted on the fuel line. That in turn with more of my welding caught the rubber line on fire. Inside the rubber line was all the diesel and when it burnt in half it just fueled the fire and what didn't instantly catch pooled under the car...then caught.
     I was the most scared I have been in a while. I went for the hose as the little cup didn't take care of it, but the hose had been hit by the mower and was about 20 feet short. I had my crankshaft, giles pump and injectors, turbo, and a bunch of other stuff in the back that I was frantically unloading. Ripped the welder out of the way and threw my welding helmet. Ran around the car grabbed the wheel and pulled it back so I could get it out of the barn. Ran it forward until it was outside. My GTI was in the way and I pushed the jetta into it to hold it as I didn't have time for wheel chocks. The hose still wouldn't reach and the fire was starting to come out from under the entire passenger side. I got the GTI moved and beat the fire down a little with my welding gloves, then rolled it forward to the hose. I got it put out and amazingly not only did I not burn down anything, but besides some melted dash peices that I had in the back nothing was hurt. Well, some fuel line and the e brake need replaced, but I consider myself lucky
AND DUMB.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on April 24, 2010, 09:59:05 pm
Yikes. That would have been a horrible ending to this thread :o
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: rabbitman on April 25, 2010, 03:48:21 pm
That'll just about make a guy wet himself.............
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 25, 2010, 09:13:56 pm
Yeah I had pretty much wrote it off when looking at the 3 foot fireball under the car. At that point I was just trying to salvage my parts and my father's quansenhut style garage barn. When I pulled it back off of the puddle of diesel I went to call the fire dept. and realized that the puddle was more on fire than the car and that is when I took it outside. I didn't call them as I thought I had a chance to put it out...and I did.
     I am a strong guy, but I had so much adrenaline going I practically threw the car around. Granted it has no engine, but it is still heavy. I don't cuss and I dropped the F bomb when I first saw it. I was completely messed up over it. I pretty much took the rest of the weekend off working on it.
    I am going to drain the diesel out of it now since I need to replace the fuel line anyway. I may let the ebrake ride until it needs work.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Dakotakid on April 25, 2010, 10:16:02 pm
Let me know what dash pieces you need to replace those...I'll see what I have to toss yer way.
Don't think I have any ebrake parts.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 26, 2010, 08:19:11 am
The dash parts were black. They were small and I am not sure if they were for the dash, but I am assuming since I kept all if it together. One is a puddle, the other looks like two 2"x2.25" rectangles in a 90 or L shaped. It is one peice, but that is the best way I could describe it.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on April 26, 2010, 12:40:22 pm
 :o

Holy crap, glad you didn't burn the car (or yourself!) up. 

You don't cuss?  Well then I apologize for cursing like a pirate the past couple times we have met up.   ::)

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 26, 2010, 06:25:15 pm
I cuss...when I see a 3 foot fire under a car the F word gets tossed LOL

I usually don't cuss though. I couldn't care less if someone else does though. I only care about what I do...and even then not as much as I should care about what I do :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on April 28, 2010, 10:26:16 pm
just glad to hear that you are safe, good luck
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on April 28, 2010, 10:56:17 pm
Thankfully I only feel dumb...no dumb injuries. Probably lost 10 years or so off the end of my life span due to heart racing. It is just starting to get funny. I am normally so even, never get too bent out of shape, nice and calm, and in this situation I was anything but :D

I should have taken the camera tonight I cut up the fender and it is real close to welding it on. Man I got the hillbilly going on :D. I will never do this again, I will buy a rust free car next time. If there is a next time there maybe rust, but no gaping holes. I also will have about 200 in paint as I priced it today.
My bolt kit came in for the 020. There is just too much to work on at one time. Hopefully it isn't going to be too much longer now.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: fatmobile on April 29, 2010, 12:07:48 pm
I was welding the roof supports back in the Rabbit the other day, welding over my head so I put an old jacket over me to keep sparks off.
 Threw the coat on the roof when I was done,
next thing I look there's a huge plume of smoke coming off it.
 My car wasn't in danger of burning to ground in the shed so I didn't freak out too bad.
 I can almost imagine your state, everything is in the way and has to be moved before you can save your car, zooming around.
 Would have been a prize-winning video. ;D
 
Glad everything worked out.
 Onward with the progress.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 01, 2010, 08:48:43 pm
I saw an insert for the MKII passenger rear engine mount that was supposed to stiffen it. Is this worthwhile or not. I don't intend to take the engine out once it is in there so now is the time if it is good. looks like this:
(http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/7607a6e23303532323/f)

Also, good to hear you didn't burn your car down Fatmobile.

I got the fender fitting well today. I also got the mains and rods torqued and ready to go *again* since the TDI sprocket. Today as well the 4crawler shifting kit came. Now it looks like the big deal is the trans and paint. I was really sweating the BF Hole in the pass fender, but now it is as simple as welding it up.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 01, 2010, 08:51:01 pm
BTW how much should a guy paint on the cam and trans side of the engine? I haven't really painted much and didn't know how critical it was. Let me know please :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 02, 2010, 08:32:43 pm
from last page(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/144/l_ac2a7f00e8904acc9e7374e02a1cb504.jpg)
I don't know if this is the correct way to do body repair, but this is how I roll...now fitted ready to weld(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/128/l_bc78f45677d54b5fbe3d466b30b22442.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/142/l_f6e0b3a4fdce4f9ea2d4d62a3f72aee9.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/l_b297c2bae2e2421198aec15463964651.jpg)
That ^ is what the only big damage was from the fire. The one little piece that is melted to the bigger piece is what the other melted peice looked like. They were pretty much right there and that is how hot it was in the rear seat area to melt them
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on May 03, 2010, 12:13:06 am
Pretty Nifty there Lucas, I woulda filled that hole with bondo. So your a step in the right direction ;P
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Smokey Eddy on May 05, 2010, 07:40:02 pm
How do you have a 5 lug tire on an mk2?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on May 05, 2010, 07:40:38 pm
looks like a wheel cover to me Tyler :P
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Smokey Eddy on May 05, 2010, 07:51:38 pm
your build has inspired me to paint EVERYTHING black when i get it :D
that way it will match my cam cover & oil filter and IC plumbing. oh and my wire shielding is all black. i want to keep the head aluminum though
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 05, 2010, 09:56:39 pm
Yeah it is a cover.The other side looks way cooler as it has about 25 small spokes for a cover.

What about the Engine mount I posted earlier? Should I do it or not? I need to order a SPEEDO cable *hate the speedo* and figure if this is something worthwhile I will get it while I get the cable.

EDIT
of course my post would wrap to the next page. Here is what I was posting about.
(http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/7607a6e23303532323/f)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 06, 2010, 06:11:58 pm
??
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 09, 2010, 10:12:03 pm
Lost this.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/65/l_1dc234a4847e4ba3b4e252213ff35fa8.jpg)
I think my mom or dad didn't know what it was and it went to the garbage.

It was found I just had to get the picture out there and let everyone know what I was looking for.

I am still looking for an answer on the engine mount above. Anyone have experience with any stiffer passenger rear mount? All imput helpful.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on May 10, 2010, 04:19:49 am
the combustion of a diesel is a violent process, that is why they make the identifiable "rumble" that all diesels have.  Solid mounts would be the best idea, as poly would rattle the car apart and be very uncomfortable to you.  I will be using a modified solid mount to put my rankenmotor into a 2001 toyota MR2 Spyder.  This topic has been highlighted several times in the past.  It comes down to preference.  Most drivers who have done the switch in the past have hated it and wsitched back, in other words if you don't mind it don't matter.  Doing the inserts is, in my opinion, a bad iea.  For this reason, the rubber will wear out and have to be replaced, making the idea of a mount that doesn't wear out go right out the window.

thanks,

Kevin
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 10, 2010, 08:12:17 am
Valve cover was found!!! ;D ;D ;D

On the engine mount:
    I guess I was thinking that if I could make it stiffer the engine wouldn't flex as much. Then hopefully I wouldn't rely on the flex coupler in the exhaust or the brace I am making for the DP as much. If the mount won't last as long I will not spend the money. I was also thinking it might last longer since it shouldn't be flexing as much, but I can see where it would stress the rubber more where it does flex. I don't want to go solid as I have my mud buggy and other things with solid mounts and on a daily driver I think it would vibrate so bad my teeth would itch.

Thanks for the reply and let me know if what I was thinking makes any sense.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: rabbitman on May 10, 2010, 11:42:53 pm
I ran a skiff (bathtub with a huge engine for holding one end of the fish net) and it had a 6cyl 250hp volvo penta with solid mounts and it was crazy how bad it vibrated! The whole boat echoed and buzzed it was terrible. These are lots smaller engines but I'd for sure want something to dampen it.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 11, 2010, 12:02:00 am
Thanks for the info. The mount insert above says that it is just to stiffen a little, not like a solid. I just want a little life out of it. I suppose that mount isn't too bad to unbolt from the engine if I don't like stock.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: mystery3 on May 11, 2010, 01:01:14 am
I have the inserts on driver and passenger side of my caddy, they vibrate significantly more than worn out old rubber mounts but no where near the level that solid mounts would vibrate. Solid mounts on a diesel would be insane my neon had a solid front mount and transmission mount it was bearable but that motor is silk compared to these 1.6L's. I did notice improved throttle response with the inserts and I like rattly stuff, I actually know when the car is running or not running!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 16, 2010, 10:19:29 pm
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/129/l_35c50b1af9434abb83a1bdfe54406ac3.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/124/l_e84509bc3bf149c58ffda995cd245eb5.jpg)

I am trying to mock up the oil lines, downpipe, and block breather. Basically anything that might fight me when in the car. I am making a support for the DP off of the block, so the flex does its job instead of putting undue strain on the tubing itself. I hope this is a good idea.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on May 17, 2010, 01:00:02 am
OOOOH! SOFT CORE :o nice work, looks very clean.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 23, 2010, 12:45:59 am
Pic loaded.
I am pretty proud as I haven't ever done anything like this before. Special thanks to Dakotakid for the fender that made this possible.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/125/l_019f3775d4b947da8c6e0dbdbb1f5238.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/151/l_ee5342cbfd7140b59a7ddcd1f3561771.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/l_e944694febdd4a10bdaf6eda11519c98.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/118/l_09d2facef9844b9d8e0e00275e1bd1e5.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/135/l_e0ff4ce19a054f258d689f966889d483.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/139/l_d506935f707542e09e911e843fb487f0.jpg)

and this is some stuff that Gee-Bee sent for me to do the heater box. Great feeling stuff.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/143/l_2b0107f3bd1b449699d882cfa89e417f.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/139/l_733efcd4633846fb8d996408c2e09d4d.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on May 23, 2010, 09:39:14 am
I like it.

I think your brace idea is very wise. What mounting bolts will you be using on the block?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on May 23, 2010, 12:24:28 pm
FYI, you might have axle to oil-drain interference.  Mine looked very similar to that at first, and they did interfere.

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: GEE-BEE on May 23, 2010, 12:49:58 pm
Thanx it is AMS3195 E Silicone foam with a acrylic sticky backing

Cheer's

GB

P.S. The waves are great here !  ( South Pacific )












 
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 23, 2010, 01:34:40 pm
I like it.

I think your brace idea is very wise. What mounting bolts will you be using on the block?
So far I have cut some bolts off and made studs that go into the back of the block. There are 3  M8-1.25 threaded bosses around where the 1.6D is on the back. I was going to try and triangle a brace from them. I think I will then weld a piece to the DP with a slot in it so it can be easily bolted together. I am open to any suggestions though.

FYI, you might have axle to oil-drain interference.  Mine looked very similar to that at first, and they did interfere.

Brendan
Thanks for the heads up. I wouldn't have ever guessed that. The line is fairly flexible and I cut it long, so I may have some options. What did you do?

Anyone have the complete guide to swapping 90mm to 100mm cv?

A body man I am not. I am quite proud of what I have accomplished, but it isn't quite show quality. The closer it comes to painting it, the more I think I may wait.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on May 23, 2010, 04:02:28 pm
Thanx it is AMS3195 E Silicone foam with a acrylic sticky backing

Cheer's

GB

P.S. The waves are great here !  ( South Pacific )












 

Try stopping by Okinawa, it's nice there and pretty cheap, and the folks are real nice.  Enjoy the vacation.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on May 25, 2010, 12:51:45 pm
I got a -10 AN 90* pushlok fitting from Jegs, the fitting I welded on the pan is pretty shallow, so the fitting basically points straight up.

Since I didn't have any choice before, I "threaded" the axle between the drain line and block and ran it that way for a while.  It did rub some, when I removed it, some of the stainless line was worn away.  I fixed it by replacing it with a 90* fitting when I had to replace the passenger side axle but then ended up cross-threading the -AN fitting when attaching it to the pan.  It leaked some, but I ran it that way for a while once again.

I just now fixed it a final time and used a pushlok fitting instead with a clamp, that way if I have to pull the turbo it will be a lot easier than messing with a traditional -AN type fitting.

...Of course, I also installed a catch-can, and there was too much restriction and it popped the dipstick tube out blowing 2 quarts of oil during my commute home....

Someday this thing will be leak-free.   :'(
Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on May 25, 2010, 06:06:59 pm
Thanks for the tip. I might try to sit it down in the engine bay tonight and see what it looks like. The line is flexible enough I maybe able to zip tie it to the mount out of the way. My fitting in the pan is welded and not able to be changed. I asked about making a stainless like my feed line and my cost with the fittings will still be about 30 bucks. So this one will wear in...hopefully before it wears out.

still up for ideas on the DP brace if any have some :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Smokey Eddy on May 25, 2010, 07:22:03 pm
I really really like your DP brace. I need to make one.
Also, i used (haha) craft foam sheets from walmart and used elmer glue to hold it to my heaterbox doors.

my one word of advice is to make sure the doors are overlapping. you dont want to cut the sheets to the size of the metal doors. you want it to over lap a bit and get a perfect seal.
The difference is incredible.

as for ideas on the brace. I think your have it right in that picture there. use the two bolt holes (Edit: sorry there are three) in the block to make a brace. make it out of 1/4' angle iron.
tools needed: welder of any kind, file, something to cut the angle iron with - a chop saw works great but a hacksaw will do the trick, and a drill to drill bolt holes!!! Or if you're really good you could get some flat bar and stack them, then drill & tap.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 01, 2010, 10:01:47 pm
Fender is welded inside and out. I didn't worry too much about the inside as I will bury it all in undercoat. I also started the patch in the back of the fender I didn't know was there until I was going around the car hitting stuff to make sure it was all solid. I have to weld a hole in the pass rear rocker, the holes for the plastic pieces on the driver rear, and my downpipe brace. After that I believe the rust bucket will just be a bucket and in no more need of welding. I have used about one and a half 11lbs spools(15-16lbs for the mathmatically challenged) of .023" wire so far.

I had to cut the oil drian out of the pan. There is NO WAY a 45 degree fitting will work with the hole I have drilled. I need to get another fitting and weld that.

I need to get the trans back from brokevw.

I need to decide if I am painting it now and if so should I stay stock or go black. I love the black:D

I believe it is just a bunch of parts that need assembled for the most part and hopefully end of June it will smoke to life. I will post the pics of the fender if anyone is interested. I need to take some first.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on June 02, 2010, 10:23:56 am
Sounds like it's coming along!

If you've already paid Brian for the tranny work, I could swing by and grab it from him tomorrow on my way home from work, I'm off on Friday so if you're in the Mt. Vernon area I can hand it off to you.  Might cut your trip in half or so.  Otherwise, I'll probably see him this weekend at Cincy and I could grab it then.

Let me know if I can help you out.  There are advantages to working in Columbus.  :D

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 02, 2010, 09:00:23 pm
He isn't done yet. Last update I had was he was setting the 3.67 R&P in the AGS I took him. Then it has to be put all back together agian. I didn't pay him either as he said I could when I pick it up. I just sold some parts so I will now be able to pay it  ;). I also have some family in Gahana less than 5 minutes from the VW dealer that I met Brian at that I need to pick up some whiskey barrels when I get the trans.
Thanks though, I wish I could have used the favor. Maybe next time:D BTW I needed for sure to get the 90 degree fitting. I wouldn't have known until it was in the car unless you said something. I lined it up with the mount and no matter what I figured I would have problems. My new fitting will be in tomorrow.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 12, 2010, 06:32:35 pm
Trans done next week.
This is the intercooler I wanted:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180488928752&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180488928752&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT)

My GTI rear axle ripped off so I need to get this done soon. I may not get a/c or paint or intercooled, just running.

I need to know if you can run the aaz serp system without a/c when it is supposed to have a/c? Meaning could I run a shorter belt and pick up the water pump? Going to the farm now to do what I can with the inside. Anyone close feel like wrenching in the next couple of weeks let me know  ;D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 18, 2010, 05:00:14 pm
My Trans...
http://www.brokevw.com/lucasags.html (http://www.brokevw.com/lucasags.html)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on June 18, 2010, 05:19:50 pm
Sweet.

Mr Broke sure knows his stuff.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: NintendoKD on June 20, 2010, 01:00:59 am
I should get him to do mine up for me ;D  nice build dude

Kevin
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 20, 2010, 02:00:26 am
Tonight and Before
(http://www.brokevw.com/06-19-10%20026se.JPG)

See the link in the above post for the in between.

 Broke VW is a cool dude. I talked with him tonight for several hours, my wife thought I got shot in the city since the windows were up and I didn't hear the phone :D I left him some drill bits and some tapping solution for free since he did above and beyond what I thought he needed to. He replaced all the needle bearings since I wanted to reuse mine and they accidentily got left out and rusted-FREE. This trans with the care and parts that went into it I guarantee is better than when VW made it originally. Now to bed, church in morning, and then to paint :D

2 HUGE thumbs up for BrokeVW.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on June 21, 2010, 10:13:02 am
Brian is a cool guy.  Did he show you the cutaway trans?  Pretty neat.

He came down to our big Scirocco meet in Wilmington.  Always willing to answer questions and help people out.  I wish he dabbled in 02J's.  :)

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 21, 2010, 10:20:58 pm
No cutaway.  Heck he didn't let me near his house, we met in a lot next to the VW dealer LOL. After our talk though we are pretty similar in tastes besides VW. I pretty much gave him an open invite to come up to the house anytime. Real straight up conservative guy like myself, or so he seems. I hope to make the first weekend voyage in the car down to Mt. Vernon and then to Columbus/Gahana to see my VW buds :D but we will see.

I got the trans painted and the rest of the linkage adjusted like the stock pieces. I had a guy come over today to work and he works for some sort of hospital and got called in on his day off. We were going to set the engine and trans in and he had to go shower for work. We are going to do it Saturday the 26 and then the 28th I am taking it to get brake lines. My friend has a hoist and is going to put some of the copper stuff to the rears that I accidentally cut off when redoing the floor. IF all goes well it will start for the first time this weekend. If I can get past the wife who now HATES this car I will paint it, hopefully next week.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 23, 2010, 09:50:05 am
http://www.continental-seal.net/jointsealant.asp (http://www.continental-seal.net/jointsealant.asp)

(http://www.usseal.com/ASPjointsealant.jpg)

I am going to try to use this stuff for the hole in the MLS instead of the oil cap. You can smash it flat and it should handle anything I throw at it. I sell it to a customer so I got a foot or two for free :D I am going to shave the edges to a taper and insert it into the layers of steel, then across the hole to the other side...and pray I don't have to buy another HG :D
Specs:
Specifications & Testing
 
Temperature Range
 -450 F to 600F
 FDA Suitable
 PTFE to 21 CFR 177.1550

Adhesive to 21 CFR 175.105
 
Pressure Range
 F.V. to 3,000 psi

(F.V. to 210 Bar)
 Independent Laboratory Testing
 ASTM F36 Compressibility

64-69%
 
pH Range
 0-14
   
 ASTM F38 Creep Relaxation
 
Pressure x Temperature

(psi x F), max
 3500,000
 In-House Testing
 5,500 psi Hydraulic Pressure Test

3/16 Material 72 hrs without leakage
 
 
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 26, 2010, 11:41:27 pm
It is getting there slowly:
Downpipe stud I welded on for brace.
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/92/l_8ed8f3c945dc47ab8445755473cd5622.jpg)
This is the brace I will be running from the trans to the DP. I couldn't make the 3 holes in the back work in the ammount of time I had to make it and weld it.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/123/l_616a619edec04da0a13cdce7d63a226b.jpg)
This is the IP bracket I welded a tab on for when my brokeness gets enough cash to buy my A/C stuff. OH my AAZ bracket needed this.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/l_a09e2a1df7094616a34ce60dbc138078.jpg)
I redid the heater core...I put it in last year and then someone posted how there is supposed to be foam in there. I took it all out and put the GEE-BEE foam stuff in there. I have pics on my cell I will upload someday, but here is the dash that won't need to come out again:D
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/128/l_b29585b6ba0d45c6b00a00286c551cd5.jpg)
Starting to clean up and make space
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/l_afe6ce54f420403c998fc157c460b8af.jpg)
For this lump
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/l_1893751e5a974a6380d5a4c925a5e799.jpg)
Two guys, two used cylinder head stretch bolts, one T fence post, 5 foot of log chain, and it is in
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/142/l_0d4f7a86723740499d7d2c866d00d35a.jpg)
That is correct we did not use the tractor as a hoist. We did rest it on the subframe deal and repositioned. I think it took less time than it would have to use the tractor since the brush hog was still attached to it and we would have had to put the CV back in to roll it to the front door. The tractor won't fit with the horse trailer and brush hog all in the way. Brake line will be made monday.

Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 27, 2010, 08:57:07 am
Also something worth noting. When upgrading to a 210mm clutch and PP they take 3 more bolts than the diesel models. I made 3 bolts out of the inner CV bolts by grinding them down for clearance and cleaning them up with a die. Then tapping the PP to accept them. I used threadlocker heavily on those as well. I shouldn't have any problems, but I will report if I do.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on June 29, 2010, 08:32:38 am
Any ideas or concerns about using the 3 odd bolts in the PP?

Brakes and fuel lines are repaired. As I was under the car on the lift I have a little bit of welding left, but mainly getting the interior in, hooking up engine stuff/gauges, and the body work paint issue. Now that it was out in the light it didn't look good at all :(
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Rabbit on Roids on June 29, 2010, 01:53:48 pm
i would have left the 3 holes in the flywheel. diesels only have 6 bolts for a reason im sure. but they only had 6 bolts up till a certain year im assuming? i took a 6 bolt 190mm setup off my old black car and put a 210mm gasser setup in there from my jetta. then it was 9 bolt. i honestly couldnt tell much difference. i think you would be alright either way you do it buddy.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 02, 2010, 09:06:15 am
Well I mocked up the turbo and downpipe while in the car...the rack was in the way for this.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/123/l_616a619edec04da0a13cdce7d63a226b.jpg)

So since I have spent so much stupid time on a brace I ended up finding a solution. I basically just cut the bracket 2.5" and will drill a hole that will fit the bellhousing bolt. I welded a stud onto the downpipe higher. It should help some as it won't stress the 4 bolts on the turbo as bad, but the rest of the pipe to the flex section will be under more stress because of this. I may make another bolt on brace from the original 3 bolts on the back of the block now that I can see how everything lines up. That will be later as I have to finish 3 tack welds that we saw when the car was on the lift. Then the dash/interior and paint. I am taking next week VACATION so this might come together :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 04, 2010, 09:44:48 pm
Got some rust bullet, oil cooler, and the same thermostatic plate andrew got. Mostly installed now. I got a bigger cooler but no fan.
I was in and out of the car about 53 times adjusting the shifter and now it will shift, I may have to redo when it is running. It feels good now. Tomorrow a bunch of body work, gauge pannel work, and try to put the head on. The plan is to be done this time next week. Pray for me :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on July 04, 2010, 10:04:22 pm
It might be too late now but this may help

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/DIY/galga2ox9.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/DIY/galga2ox9.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/DIY/ce975f11.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/DIY/ce975f11.jpg)

I wish I had the time to clean everything up like you are. It's going to look good once it's all done :)

I wouldn't worry about the bolts. They switched to 9 bolts when the went to 210mm. Since you used loctite you should be safe. The dealer stocks these last time I checked.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 04, 2010, 10:11:46 pm
what does that tool do? Is it a clutch alignment tool?
I don't have time to clean everything. I am rushing to get this done. The paint will have pretty much no block sanding and will be the cheaper acrylic urethane instead of base clear. I might do a little block sanding if the D/A goes well and fast. I am going to take a bunch of stuff off and mask a little. My wife left our camera in columbus, so I might not get before and afters.

This is pretty much a have to kind of thing. The Mercedes is only getting about 26-30 MPG. The wife doesn't want me to spend another summer/dime on the car, so I am using all my vacation to get it done...I hope.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on July 04, 2010, 10:35:18 pm
I see where you are coming from. It still looks like you are doing a great job though

That is a shifter alignment tool. You loosen off the adjuster in the engine bay at the end of the long shift rod from the shifter, then you go in the car and remove the shifter boot and put that tool on the shifter. Then you tighten up the adjuster and away you go. The Bentley explains it better then that.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 04, 2010, 10:41:43 pm
Yep, That is what everyone needs. The instructions on the missing linkz shifter set didn't really say anything about marking it until after removing it...at least that is what I read, but I printed my own instead of buying his.

For what it is worth, I probably would still be doing it if I hadn't done it this way. I put it in 2nd and then went and put the shifter where I thought it should go. Then I went and tightened it all down. Shifted around and it was close, so I just moved it a little and got it where I think it is really good. I may make a tool like above or buy one as it was really stinking frustrating to do it the way I did. That is how bad it was as I am very tight with $$$ :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on July 04, 2010, 10:47:35 pm
It's $12.00 at GAP if you feel the urge. I was used to working on mk1s and it would take hours to adjust the linkage properly. With that little gem it took like 5 minutes, I was ecstatic.

I guess I missed the part about you having a Missing Linkz kit. Those are probably the most frustrating things in the world to setup
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 06, 2010, 11:37:47 pm
Thanks BYM...I am going to order that next time I get parts as if I EVER do that agian I will need it.

Also, you all might want an update: I have the inside floors, passenger front door, passenger rear fender and door, and some misc. other stuff all covered in RUST BULLET. I will be finishing the body work tomorrow hopefully.
I made a gauge pannel for the center consol that still needs some work. I also undercoated the bottom lip thing under the core support. I will be putting a urethane black coating on the entire bottom of the car for more rust and rock protection so the undercoat will match that :D

The most exciting thing I did today was bolt the head on. I used that teflon joint sealant stuff in an above post, after I called the mfg. He thought it would be a perfect use of the stuff and said it would take 400 degrees continuously for life. The amazing thing is that it smashes flat. I put 2 pieces of it above and below the hole and overlapped the HG. The guy said it would pretty much go to zero thickness if compressed and it did. I am really hoping that it holds out. I also used the aviation permatex, so I really hope there is no leakage.
No pics as the wife's camera is still in Columbus :(
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 11, 2010, 11:32:25 pm
(http://www.failfunnies.com/images/2/bob-says-you-fail.jpg)
Well....I didn't make it. It is close in all respects, but nothing really got done. I still need to finish some body work and finish masking. I might have been more motivated if it hadn't taken 2 hours in the paint place to get all I needed. My sister was in vacationing from California and it was frowned upon for me to continue working on it all weekend. I got in about 5 hours since friday. So basically it is close but not close enough.
I washed it and found out that I need some seals. I had about 4 gallons of water on the floor, which told me the welds were water tight:D, but sucks that I have to get new seals and don't know which ones to get.
Filled it with fresh diesel. My fire only took about 4 gallons out. Yes the tank was completely full before the fire. You would be amazed how big of a fire can come from 4 gallons of diesel
The plan now is to get it masked and ready for paint. Paint. Then finish the engine stuff. Then hook up the gauges and interior stuff.

Reminds me. I think the sheet metal gauge consol I made up turned out sweet. Pics will come soon.

Round 2 of the heater core
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/90/l_1920ad47c4804cdd896cb65897b51833.jpg)
pre bent oil cooler
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/69/l_bab5a679b35e42f58b47ef5dd9df7c38.jpg)
begining stages of the gauge holder
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/79/l_f778701ce3f942918875433b57cf75a1.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 22, 2010, 08:17:28 am
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/127/l_18b082f158214d25af8a5c7e7b910bcd.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/142/l_bff8a02dc55e4dc1b9ef1fb6ce73daa2.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/113/l_a41eeabadaa0474894bbfa76cdb8de76.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/133/l_ab52e8a512b3440694b65249d87b4fdb.jpg)
Well it is spot primed, block sanded, and needs a little more scuffing here and there before paint. I think I am painting it right there and I hope not much falls onto it as it isn't the best for dust and bugs.
I haven't had much chance to work on it since I took vacation to do so. Nobody did any work for me so the last 2 weeks I have been doing catch up.
Tonight I will take the winsheild out and reglue in. Tomorrow Medium Stratus Blue Metallic :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 22, 2010, 08:19:33 am
Just an FYI in the pics above there see the dark spot under the car??? That is where the diesel puddle fire was when I was welding a little while ago. My welder is up front in the building there...as you see it was quite a flaming puddle.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 24, 2010, 02:22:21 pm
It is painted.
I have found out that the biggest deal with painting is lighting. Which I had none really. I have one over head florescent light 2 eight foot bulbs on the drivers side. I also had my hand held L E D light for the rest of the car. It turned out OK, but it is hard to paint in the dark. I had left over paint and sprayed my junk Bronco and it looks amazing. So for anybody that wants to paint my #1 tip is have plenty of light.
Let me know if you want to see pics. I will get some and peel the masking tape off soon :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 24, 2010, 07:19:03 pm
Nobody is interested in commenting without pics huh?
It looks better than what the camera is doing it justice. The close up shots are the worst parts of the paint job and I am still giving the thumbs up:D
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/81/l_8c33b6b7dffc4969849ff163a5292517.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/79/l_cf6ff597d7a84a4a977db21bcddc571c.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/113/l_7f62e46cd31e4d79af64d31dfbebf4cb.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/l_1f3ac1f55a3a4ae881f3f9b2939ebf8f.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/65/l_d5f69827fddf4e329fe43d4a9f5e6842.jpg)
This one above I am most proud of. From badge to badge there was a 1" deep crease that I pounded out and block sanded. You will never be able to tell it though. *badges were left on as they were glued and I didn't want to break them getting them out*
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/91/l_93f21d067a644bbf901b4d80e205c14b.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/142/l_f9b7e5f7959341e49ffbbb19c1b0c110.jpg)
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/81/l_be2062821cfb421c8f530f049a83081d.jpg)
Those crappy spots in this last pic are the camera not the paint BTW.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: VW Smokr on July 24, 2010, 09:09:13 pm
Looks nice! Great work.

J.R.
SoCal
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Dakotakid on July 25, 2010, 11:36:33 am
I'm liking it, Lucas.

The highway dept.'s salt piles are quivering with anticipation!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 25, 2010, 09:38:18 pm
Lucas, OMG Thats my old car blue! Before I roller'd it black ;)

From the pictures, it looks stellar! and you say the pics give it no justice! I AM IMPRESSED :) Did you just use a mediocre compressor and gun or did you go all out? Where did you get your paint!? is it VW code? I wish to do a dark copper/bronze and I think spray gun this time will be best ;)

PS. Did I do enough *** kissing? :P
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 25, 2010, 09:50:18 pm
Lucas, OMG Thats my old car blue! Before I roller'd it black ;)

From the pictures, it looks stellar! and you say the pics give it no justice! I AM IMPRESSED :) Did you just use a mediocre compressor and gun or did you go all out? Where did you get your paint!? is it VW code? I wish to do a dark copper/bronze and I think spray gun this time will be best ;)

PS. Did I do enough *** kissing? :P
I had a Finex *cheap version of Sharpe* HVLP gun from a couple years ago when I did my truck doors. My compressor is in the background of the 6th pic down Iron Horse-supposed to be made in Canada. It was VW code stock for that car Medium Stratos Blue metallic LA5Z that I got from the local parts store. Omni brand which is the cheap PPG line and I went with a high solids mix. Some dust settled on it, but for the kind of girls I used to go with it will be just fine :D
Yes you did!!!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on July 26, 2010, 11:29:10 am
Looks great for a garage job Lucas!

Sorry I didn't call you back.  I ended up working 9-7 with no lunch break on friday.  :(

Gonna be seeing this car in person soon I figure.  :)

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on July 29, 2010, 08:46:58 am
I have had to fix exhaust on the benz so I haven't got anything done on the VW except peel tape.
I did see some spots that I didn't like as well as at first. I may wet sand or just leave it. I am not going to do anything with the paint until it is on the road though.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 07, 2010, 02:09:03 am
I was trying to get water in it tonight so I could do the final torque and possibly start it tomorrow. It didn't happen though. The carpet is fighting me, but other than that things are going well. I made the alternator fit from my GTI so until I get A/C I will only have one belt. Made another sender out of key stock for the oil pressure gauge and the warning deal. I put the timing pump on and torqued the injectors. I installed the heat dissapator for the intake. I have no pictures though as I am not taking much since I am trying to work on it. I could get some tomorrow hopefully.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 07, 2010, 05:47:45 pm
I am pretty proud of my gauge consol I made. Probably the best work I have done on this thing.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/69/l_5ea4b4354b40497483e43df0b5acfd9c.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/68/l_55d92d6b10ee4ef9af94d08a96f1593b.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/148/l_abf46dab25694d219f70f6161b70bc9c.jpg)

The down pipe brace might not work as planned, but it will be better than nothing
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/125/l_236f0bfac8214a3a95d0a90b171e153e.jpg)

You can see 3 gauge projects in one pic. The oil filter flange has some work done. The water outlet has work done. And the oil pressure sender unit made out of key stock.
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/98/l_40f81153b59d43beaf6ab89df3ea26f9.jpg)

This setup here flat out rules for non a/c alt tensioner if you don't have the brackets.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/125/l_5e9b7b050a8f4baf99ad8b3f16b54817.jpg)

And here is where it sits for this weekend. Close but not there yet.
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/117/l_b22962b003d644068eee183fdf165362.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on August 09, 2010, 11:50:41 am
hotttt dammmmn! Thats lookin' purdy snazzy there Lucas!

I dig the console ;) that turned out great!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 15, 2010, 10:58:21 pm
Gauges hooked up, water in, plugged block heater in and let cool x2, final 100 ft/lbs torque of ARP studs, oil in filter and filter on car...12 hours of gauge working and a couple more for making the oil cooler work. When I have time I will prime the oil pump and make sure it is all working without leaks. Get the timing done and glow plugs. Then all I need is bumpers put on, plates, interior, seats, and work out the bugs. No pics as the wife went to Columbus and had the camera again  :(
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 16, 2010, 08:50:25 am
I have searched...
I don't really understand what the bentley is saying on this and I couldn't find anything in the search. I was hoping if someone could tell me where to hook up to keyed power on the fuse block. It is for this 86 Jetta west german built. I could use a test light if I had a battery in it, but I don't. Let me know if you can, Thanks Lucas.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on August 16, 2010, 11:12:57 am
I have searched...
I don't really understand what the bentley is saying on this and I couldn't find anything in the search. I was hoping if someone could tell me where to hook up to keyed power on the fuse block. It is for this 86 Jetta west german built. I could use a test light if I had a battery in it, but I don't. Let me know if you can, Thanks Lucas.

Connect you battery + terminal to ground. Use the beep setting on the DVM. Connect one DVM lead to ground and the other to the fuse you want to check. The one that beeps when the key is turned to "on" position is switched power. The radio fuse would be one I'd think?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 16, 2010, 05:14:09 pm
Sorry, I can use my test light naturally when I have the battery in. I am looking for just an empty fuse spot that would be on with the key that I can put a spade onto. I was wondering if anyone knew which ones were good for this and if the bottom or top was the one to jump on.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on August 16, 2010, 07:23:19 pm
Sorry, I can use my test light naturally when I have the battery in. I am looking for just an empty fuse spot that would be on with the key that I can put a spade onto. I was wondering if anyone knew which ones were good for this and if the bottom or top was the one to jump on.

I gave an alternative so you do not have to install the battery and you're too lazy to use it?  ::)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 16, 2010, 08:02:21 pm
I thought you told me to use the battery...it isn't within walking distance from the car. I read hook up the + of the battery to ground and that is why I responded the way I did. I should have been more clear on the battery not being close by. I may choose your method though just cause it sounds neat :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on August 16, 2010, 08:28:18 pm
Sorry if I was unclear but I meant connect the battery cable + terminal of the car to ground, not the batterie's + terminal since you do not want to use the battery. Once the + terminal of the car is grounds, you are just finding which fuse is grounded as you turn on the ign switch. The one that beeps is switched +12.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 16, 2010, 11:11:32 pm
OH! Now I get it. I will try that the next time I get to work on it. If I don't bring the battery this time. I need to bring a camera too. It seems like I get a better response when I take pics.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 19, 2010, 10:33:30 pm
3 questions:
Background 1
I put oil in and primed the system. I had oil in the turbo feed line, up to the gauge*little leak at gauge fitting*, and it made the drill work hard. I couldn't see the gauge to tell what i had for pressure though. I was looking at the cam and trying to see where the oil comes out, but I didn't.
question 1 What should the cam and valve stuff look like with the oil pressure up there?

Background 2
I have a westach EGT and the micro 1000 probe. Directions say to tie the black and white to the black and white...I don't have black and white I have white and red, with the k type being yellow and red with the extension being black and red.

question2 Does any of this really matter, or not?

Background 3 The k type lead is a solid core wire. It won't crimp. I can't get a good connection.

question 3 How do you hook it up to the extension? Are you allowed to solider?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: honda_is_the_best on August 20, 2010, 01:44:44 pm
3 questions:
Background 1
I put oil in and primed the system. I had oil in the turbo feed line, up to the gauge*little leak at gauge fitting*, and it made the drill work hard. I couldn't see the gauge to tell what i had for pressure though. I was looking at the cam and trying to see where the oil comes out, but I didn't.
question 1 What should the cam and valve stuff look like with the oil pressure up there?

Background 2
I have a westach EGT and the micro 1000 probe. Directions say to tie the black and white to the black and white...I don't have black and white I have white and red, with the k type being yellow and red with the extension being black and red.

question2 Does any of this really matter, or not?

Background 3 The k type lead is a solid core wire. It won't crimp. I can't get a good connection.

question 3 How do you hook it up to the extension? Are you allowed to solider?

they make extension wires for just this reason, and they have round terminals on them, they screw together..
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 20, 2010, 05:29:51 pm
That is just it, my extension wire did not screw in. It just slid in. I tried to crimp it and it wouldn't do it, hence the is it ok to solider.

I think I will solider on some spades if no one says not to. At least that way it is still removable. Or hopefully someone like andrew will know since I am using his wire and the same probe and gauge he is, and he will tell me what to do.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Vincent Waldon on August 20, 2010, 05:37:30 pm
In general soldering is *not* recommended for thermocouple wire... the reason being you're adding dissimilar metals to the junction... every one of which becomes its own little thermocouple which then adds inaccuracy to the system.

In the ideal world you'd use the same two metals all the way thru the system... using crimp connectors made of the same two different metals found in the thermocouple wire... one for each side... all the way to the gauge.  The terminals on the gauge itself would be made of those same two different metals... in industrial situations they are.

However, we're not in the ideal world, and the temperature at the main junction (the actual thermocouple) is much greater than the temperature at all the other connections.. so we can get by with a few dissimilar metal junctions... including the ones at the gauge terminal itself.  The idea is to minimize them.  So, many folks have good luck bolting the bare wires together at the junction(s) with small machine screws and washers... if done right you're forcing the two metals to only touch each other and the errors are minimized.  Bolt 'em together with machine screws/washers and then weather-protect with electricians tape or heat-shrink tubing.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 20, 2010, 05:48:11 pm
Thanks Vince. I figured that solidering was bad.
I did bolt my thermocouple to the K type lead and did all you mentioned above. Then I went and wrapped it with firesleeve from BEE GEE. My problem is down the K type wire to the gauge extension wire, it doesn't want to stay put. I can't crimp it tight enough as there is no give in the k type lead and the extension from the gauge won't crush completely around it.

Basically, I figure there is a really simple solution I am over looking as a newb on EGT gauges. I might be putting the wire on wrong or something. I am just butting them together...help :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: fatmobile on August 21, 2010, 12:08:27 am
The westach had a gauge extention wire?

I just wire-wrapped Libbybapa's wire around the post on the back of the egt gauge.
 Got a pic of the back of the gauge?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 21, 2010, 08:20:55 am
I will get a pic, but yes the westach gauge had an extension wire that you put on the back of the gauge. It was only about a foot or a little more long. It has ends on it that look like you can crimp, but it isn't happening. I think what I will do is cut them off and wrap them around the k type lead and then heat shrink them :-\
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 21, 2010, 08:32:05 am
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/148/l_abf46dab25694d219f70f6161b70bc9c.jpg)
Then here is a pic of the back of the Gauge, obviously the top middle.
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/69/l_5ea4b4354b40497483e43df0b5acfd9c.jpg)

I don't have the extension wire in the pic. It just looks like 18-22 gauge wire with round almost bullet style connectors though.

and here is the distructions on how to install.
(http://www.westach.com/instructions/2C2-1.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 29, 2010, 12:42:08 am
I got the EGT figured out...
Here is some Hard Core VW porn
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=106377792 (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=106377792)

I am happier than a two faliced billy goat. I have started it 5 times and have some leaks that i think are fixed now. Tomorrow I will put a seat in it and run it around the farm. I need exhaust pretty bad, but it is quieter than my N/As that I have had with nothing but a 3" downpipe.
Thanks to all on this forum for helping me. Especially Dakotakid, for getting me parts/advice for the cost of shipping, 53 willys for the turbo adaptor and stuff, and GeeBee for the cheap stuff too. Andrew and Vince for all various knowledge and the EGT wire. And everyone else for the various posts that made me think more and do some things different than what I would have.

This isn't the end. But a MILESTONE for the 3 year on/off build. My butt was puckered when I first hit the starter. More Video to come later :D
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/96/l_acc3a01f3ff04670a736eb83312778f7.jpg)
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/75/l_66a939fb725f4bf293972c5fd4fdf2ec.jpg)
slight difference
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/146/l_e3026d4c7ba94007b1bb29fce5e9b035.jpg)
I hate the fact that the intake was supposed to go on a HONDA. Some 200.00 intake summit had in the bargin bin for 50.00. I bought it just for the filter, but used all of it:D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: GEE-BEE on August 29, 2010, 09:56:19 am
I have the coolant hose from the pump to the head in silicone
068121053E
need one
black-Blue, red or yellow...

let Me Know

Gee-Bee
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on August 29, 2010, 08:58:55 pm
Let me know how much Gee Bee

I have an issue. I can't get the heater fan to work. I am looking through bentley and no luck. I have traced all wires that I know, but it seems some aren't there. I have 2 plugs in the wiring harness in the dash and I can't find where they go. Anybody have any pics of MKII heater box and all the wiring involved? Please help, dash is out and I can't go on with out it.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on September 01, 2010, 10:52:01 am
Congrats on getting it running!  I know that feeling of "oh crap is this going to work or not!!!" and then the big "whew" after it starts purring.  Which quickly changes back to "oh crap, what's that leak!?!?" as you dive for the ignition key.  :D  Fun stuff!

About the heater- the plug to the fan control switch is a goofy looking one if I remember, nothing else in the dash will fit it.  There is a fuse for it, check that first, then check the fan itself- use a couple jumper wires to a battery at the fan plug to see if it will physically spin.  When they go bad, sometimes they will turn so slowly that they don't produce any air.  (I had to replace the one in the Golf)

Gotta be something easy, there isn't much in the fan circuit.

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: GEE-BEE on September 01, 2010, 12:30:20 pm
22.50 with clamps 068121053 E

The upper hose 191 101 ak ( 91 jetta 1.6 a/c radiator  )and the lower hose 533121051 a ( Scirocco 16 v a/c ) fit's better since it has a 90 degree down bend are going into production

Std install on 975 mm radiator

GB
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 01, 2010, 06:00:13 pm
Congrats on getting it running!  I know that feeling of "oh crap is this going to work or not!!!" and then the big "whew" after it starts purring.  Which quickly changes back to "oh crap, what's that leak!?!?" as you dive for the ignition key.  :D  Fun stuff!

About the heater- the plug to the fan control switch is a goofy looking one if I remember, nothing else in the dash will fit it.  There is a fuse for it, check that first, then check the fan itself- use a couple jumper wires to a battery at the fan plug to see if it will physically spin.  When they go bad, sometimes they will turn so slowly that they don't produce any air.  (I had to replace the one in the Golf)

Gotta be something easy, there isn't much in the fan circuit.

Brendan
Yeah, the fan worked perfectly before on HIGH only. I replaced the resistor, but in the year since I removed the heater box I must have missed a wire or two. It won't even work on high so something other than the resistor is bad.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: GEE-BEE on September 01, 2010, 08:03:45 pm
068121053 E Coolant Hose ( pump to head ) IS A 1/2 LONGER PER JACK'S BUILD

I just finished all the hoses for a vanagon tdi build ( van-Cafe )

vanagon uses the same hose

GB

Ohh yeah advise color: red, Blue, Black
includes s/s lined clamp
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 02, 2010, 07:22:19 am
I would like one, but don't send it until you know for sure that the south american stuff is going to get ordered. I will probably go with black, but I will think about it. How resistant are the hoses to oil and fuel?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: GEE-BEE on September 02, 2010, 11:19:25 am
Silicone is standard equipment on all catapillar motors and the girls here at the beach

No problem I rub all different kinds of oil on them and no problems...

5 Ply lay up

GB

I also have the turbo to manifold inlet duct ( oem) 122.00
32.50 with clamps
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 02, 2010, 11:39:40 am
I have plans for the turbo to manifold  ;)
I want to find a VNT 17vb and then use my AKI 76 log manifold. By that time I want to have it intercooled as well.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 03, 2010, 08:25:26 pm
I overtightened my oil pressure compression fitting so I am making another. I still don't have the fan sorted out. I know it works since I hot wired it from the battery and it spins. I am just going to throw it together and start driving soon. I have the rear bumper and the interior/fan stuff and then it is done for a while. I will try to post a video of the first trip.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: 8v-of-fury on September 05, 2010, 08:35:17 am
oooh LUCAS its gettin close!! Great Excitement Is Coming!

PRaise JEsus.

Can I still send you those parts if I ever order them? lol
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 05, 2010, 11:41:37 am
Yes you can send me anything you want...I just may have to test fit them to make sure that they work for our stuff. I would hate for you to pay all that shipping for nothing.
JOKE...I don't even have an MKI running anymore :D
Seriously, if you need me to recieve stuff and ship it up north it is no problem. I will do it for actual shipping costs unless I have to make a pallet and it costs me money of course.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 05, 2010, 11:57:12 pm
I drove it and have a video on my phone of the first few stalls. I thought I was in 1st, but I was in 3rd and the new 6 puck sprung hub clutch is different to get used to. I drove it about 5 miles. To the 2 gas stations about a mile from the farm. EGT's were sky high. I had to work to keep them under 1,000 F . I did hit 1,100 once for about .33 seconds.

I had to leave the farm and come back to the wife and the BBQ. I have to redo my oil sender I made out of key stock as it leaks like crazy. I still have some fuel, not much comming out of the barbed return lines that I think will disappear after a few runs.

GILES pump, port and polish, and turbo are amazing. The thing runs like a scalded cat...and I haven't even had the pedal past 1/3 to 1/2 the way down. I don't know I could with the EGT's so high. If you push the pedal it immediately responds. It is almost like it is asking me "is that all you want" LOL I can't wait to rip on it.

I only have the DP on for exhaust right now though. Amazingly just a 3" DP is plenty quiet enough for me. I will definately go 3" no muffler straight back. I won't drive it anymore until I get the leak sorted out. OH my oil temp gauge isn't working either  >:(
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 06, 2010, 12:18:14 am
BTW I built 15 lbs of boost and then the manual boost controller kicked in and stopped there.
I am worried about the EGT's. I am building boost much more rapidly than the 300D I drive now. But I don't know for sure if I have a boost leak or not. How do you test for that?
Also, I lapped the wastegate, but it seemed ghetto to me. Is there a new wastegate available just in case?
I turned down the main fuel screw 1/8th turn and left...if I am building boost and everything else is good is that how you get EGT under control?
Let this brand new to TD newb in on your tuning secrets. thanks Lucas><>
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on September 07, 2010, 11:37:12 am
Wish I had the answer.  I've got the same problem but not nearly that much boost or fuel.  Haha.

I have an idea that my problem might be a leak from the exhaust manifold or the coldside of the turbo. 

Make sure your timing is not too retarded.

I'm jealous of your boost, heh.

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 07, 2010, 06:42:11 pm
Thanks guys. I feel a little too special when I am the only one on my thread posting LOL.

I have oil pressure sender v.2.0 here that I am going to run over and try tonight.
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/150/l_c7f2b6fa158b4bde88157babf744e306.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/78/l_5870903b105240fcb00995da14b7b217.jpg)
I am hoping that will fix the leak and not put my stock wire in such a bind since I moved it from the end to the side.
I will drive it some and see what happens after making the adjustments noted here. I have to watch ebay for my amp *hartke* I want too, so it will be tight tonight:D I may wait until tomorrow since I don't have the plates transferred yet. I have insurance on it, but couldn't do the plates. It is actually the wife's car and she hates it, especially now that she has to go to the BMV to get the plates switched. Anybody like primus? "I've been to hell, its called the BMV, anybody ever been there knows exactly what I mean." That is pretty much Holmes county one there.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 22, 2010, 09:56:43 pm
Have 200 miles on her now. Way too much on boost fuel. Headed to the despirately needed FAQ to figure out how to limit it.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 23, 2010, 11:41:24 pm
How much weight can the MKII Jetta carry in the backseat and trunk? Over a 300 mile trip. Repeatable without damage #s if someone has that or owners manual info. Thanks
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 24, 2010, 09:26:12 pm
I have adjusted just about every stinking thing on the car and still there is too much on boost fuel. Any boost over 5 psi and it rapidly climbs to 1200 and I let off. I am going to re read the FAQ on making your TD a faster car and do the opposite to try and get the EGTs down. Anyone know how the star wheel works? I thought I understood it after reading the FAQ but when I adjusted it there was absolutely no change?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 25, 2010, 07:36:55 pm
First fill. 34.8 mpg.
EGTs are pretty much under control. ... It took 7 turns UP on the star wheel and the slope of the pin rotated to the least aggressive point. I got to turn the settings back to where Giles had them to start on the rest of the settings.
Starting to get fun :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: gnavs on September 27, 2010, 05:32:00 pm
Of course the pin is going back to the aggressive point once you're done break-in, right?   ;D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on September 27, 2010, 05:45:37 pm
I don't think I will EVER have air cool enough to run the pin on the aggressive side SAFELY. I have even ran the max fuel down to the point it didn't want to idle and turned down the pin to give more acceleration and it is still wicked hot. It almost seems like the pin allows more fuel than what the max screw is set for. I for the life of me cannot see how anyone could use a 12mm head from the 4bt on these if they give more fuel like the giles pump does. Mine is just the 9mm head IIRC. I turned boost up to around 15 and it slows the climb of EGT, but unless the EGT go down exponentially over 15 I don't think I will be running the aggressive side :'(
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: lord_verminaard on September 28, 2010, 03:14:37 pm
Glad you could stop buy last weekend.  Car has a lot of potential, for sure.  Feels like it's just getting started at 10 psi.  ;)

I think the boost pin actually does increase fuel past what the max fuel is set to, if I remember reading the diagrams correctly lol.

Intercool that thing and crank the boost up pronto!  :)

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 01, 2010, 08:48:29 am
Thanks Brenden. BTW you and your wife are nice. Great looking rocco and audi. I really liked the scirocco.

I think I will need about 30 psi to not let EGT go too far. 1200 is MY limit for short bursts. I did turn it up to 15psi and it has helped. I have almost 600 miles on it. Broke VW told me to change the trans oil in between 500 and 1,000 miles and every 15,000 to 20,000 after that. So hopefully this weekend I will have the 1,000 on it and be able to cruise at 55 all day without worrying about the rings and change the trans oil. I am going with royal purple ...it is the only stuff I can find that has GL-4, which is the only thing he recommends. I don't know why not GL-5???
I used a little bit of engine oil so I started to run the RPMs a little higher, now I haven't used any. For the entire oil usage I have used about 8-10 oz and now I haven't added in 80 miles, right before I went down to Mt Vernon.

I got a taillight, heater blower and cage, and I redid the light for the heater control. The light was a pain. I ended up cutting the old in half and soldiering the bulb to wires. I can see the heater controls now, but it wasn't plug and play like I had thought. The vortex thread I found said get a sylvannia 2127LL and put it in...not that simple.

I would like to post a video but I just don't like the performance of it enough yet. I will do some more work and think about it.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Merffy on October 04, 2010, 01:58:19 pm
 Hey Theman; I'm from Wayne Co., & been watching yer build for about a half year, Kool, I have 91 getta that I'm going to rebuild this winter, I already found a turbo & manifold, & another engine, It wud be neat to see yer ride someday, or stop by the farm, I was in Berlin on sat.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 04, 2010, 05:41:44 pm
Good deal. I am not far from Wayne county. I live outside Big Prairie, close to Shreve and if you hear what sounds like a tank coming and only see a MK2 jetta it is me. The 12th I will have full exhaust but until then it is just a downpipe.

I would love to see your work as well. If you don't already have a machinist I 100% recommend Dwights engine. He is off Eby road. He has only done 1 or 2 VW diesels *mine was first* but he bores to spec. He questioned it but didn't throw it out and just bore to whatever he normally does for diesels. After running 700 miles or so I have only used 8-10 oz of Rotella 10w-30. I credit it to my rings and his machining. Pm me I can get you my cell # and if you need any help I could see what I have for you.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: Merffy on October 06, 2010, 09:20:32 pm
 Hey Lucas; I tried to pm U & it didn't work, try mine, dial the area code,
   I ordered a compression gauge & checked it, It barely made it to 300psi, I went to Columbus on sat. & on the there it smoke sometimes & throttle up even with foot off gas peddle, it has so much blowby that it pulls oil thru the Y-hose into the intake, this happens over 65mph,
   I'll be at the Shreve gardentractor pull on sat. noon, mite see ya there,
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: VW Smokr on October 07, 2010, 06:12:49 am
How much weight can the MKII Jetta carry in the backseat and trunk? Over a 300 mile trip. Repeatable without damage #s if someone has that or owners manual info. Thanks

Can't find my Mk II manual, but the trunk capacity is rated at over 16 cubic feet. So the weight rating should be at least 600-800 lbs, evenly distributed. As to how much in the trunk & back seat... 2 bodies in the trunk and (if you have limo tint on the windows) another 3 in the back seat. Hope that helps out.

J.R.
SoCal

Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: theman53 on October 08, 2010, 10:05:16 am
Thanks.
I will probably only ever haul 300-500 once in a great while. I should be fine for the normal couple hundred that I will have in it.

Now just keeping the EGT in check with added weight ::) :'( >:(
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and... a couple videos :D
Post by: theman53 on October 09, 2010, 08:02:09 am
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=106764485&release=108659160

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EDf9KOkB2o
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Powered by Spearco on October 09, 2010, 10:14:14 pm
Nice vid.
I think the egt's are normal for a full throttle birst.
The noise is strange. Sounds like a BOV  ;D.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 10, 2010, 03:42:26 am
Yeah the noise is weird when I let off, but it is just the exhaust being open. My overboost/blow off valve is in the barn in a box. I welded the intake manifold shut so it wouldn't be an issue.

My problem with the EGT is I couldn't keep it pedal down until redline or even close enough to shift. I will wait until there is about 5,000 miles before I get too worried. I couldn't ever lend the car to anyone that doesn't understand EGT as it sits now.

I really just wanted to let you all know what the thing sounded like. It sounds pretty beastly I think. Not loud enough to drive me crazy, but not quiet either. Tuesday it will have 3" all the way back and that should make it better.
BTW, I dont have ANY stock sound absorbing mat in it. I took it all out when welding and it was such trash I didn't want it back in. I did undercoat both sides of the sheet metal, but it has no sound proofing besides that.

Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Merffy on October 10, 2010, 11:38:13 pm
  kool tube, Where is the ET probe located, it seems to be very sensitive, like trying to keep up with the boost pressure needle, U shud be able to go thru 2-3 gears be-4 it reaches 1200deg., U may want to pull it out & check it against temp. probe meter, I have digital meter with temp. probe, then take a torch to it & check temps,   
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 11, 2010, 08:09:47 am
I have a micro 1000 EGT gauge. From a different thread:
Quote
Oh, you're also listing the wrong thermocouple.  The one you want is part# 10-01478 for $33.75.
Just in case someone liked what they saw in the video and want the part# of the westach thermocouple.
I would consider it one of the best if not the best. Was made for air planes and since it is 1/8" with the little mass it reacts very quickly. I checked it before install and it seemed to be fine. I really don't think the gauge/thermocouple is the issue.

I really think the engine just dumps too much fuel to burn and I haven't been able to figure it out yet. Getting better. When I first had it out it would go to 1,200 as soon as you thought about it, now it takes a bit.

Oh the probe is pre turbine where the 4 runners dump into the turbo. 

I will have full exhaust tomorrow so I will try to get a video of that. I may have some smoke now and it isn't focused enough to see it so I might be able to tune it better once I have the exhaust. Soon will see :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Merffy on October 11, 2010, 11:01:29 pm
  3" WOW! , Is there room to get it thru & around the axle, isn't alittle overkill,
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 11, 2010, 11:17:13 pm
There should be room. I have heard of people doing it on here. 2.5" all the time and that would only be 1/4" difference on the bottom side of the pipe.

3" overkill??? ...because there is no such thing as underkill  ;D

It maybe, but as long as it doesn't hit I am fine with it. I would rather error on that side than be too restrictive. Ideally I would like to steal libby's plans on the VNT17vb vane controller and run one of those with my AKI intake. I will have to have money before that happens but I will be moving some air and don't want anything effecting spool time.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 12, 2010, 11:27:09 pm
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/143/l_0a29f46808f74e3882d9a0906f03f3c3.jpg)
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/86/l_a8e7232fbff2414592ed3685d4f5d9a7.jpg)
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/142/l_87a425704ab54788b88d2df2a165dd72.jpg)

.190 wall steel aluminized tubing, 3", no muffler from the turbo back, custom bent and installed, 6 week wait to get in, total...quiet sounds of turbo$108.10 USD =priceless  ;)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RadoTD on October 13, 2010, 02:15:50 am
.190 wall steel aluminized tubing, 3", no muffler from the turbo back, custom bent and installed, 6 week wait to get in, $108.10 USD total...quiet sounds of turbo=priceless  ;)

That looks awesome! Any idea on whether or not it lowered your EGT's much?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Merffy on October 13, 2010, 08:18:34 am
        KOOL! ! !  I'd love to hear what it sounds now, its got to have a throaty sound with that BIG a pipe, The car isn't leaning on the left side is it ??, hi hi , I'll be in Fredricksburg at noon, maybe call ya,
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 13, 2010, 08:21:21 am
.190 wall steel aluminized tubing, 3", no muffler from the turbo back, custom bent and installed, 6 week wait to get in, $108.10 USD total...quiet sounds of turbo=priceless  ;)

That looks awesome! Any idea on whether or not it lowered your EGT's much?
I actually think it did lower or SLOWER the EGTs some. Maybe it is like a chimney that pulls a draft when hot? I do have some black to adjust out. It should be easier now.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: lord_verminaard on October 13, 2010, 01:34:11 pm
Looks good!  Maybe it's a velocity thing, pulls the heat out of the turbo quicker or something.  Who cares, right?  :)

So now you can dial the tune a little better, keep the smoke down some.  You were right, when you left my house a while back there was some smoke there, just in a big cloud, not a focused stream.  :)

I cranked the fuel way down in the Wife's car, egt's are much lower now but I also don't get any boost, it does still get up to about 1100 or so up hills, @ 5 psi.  Going to probably pull the turbo this weekend and try to tighten a bunch of bolts, hope that fixes the low boost thing.

So what's next?  More break-in?

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 8v-of-fury on October 13, 2010, 11:21:55 pm
yyeahhhhhhhhhhhh LUCAS MY MAN!!!! WOOT WOOOT WOOOOOOOT that loooks killlah!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 13, 2010, 11:29:54 pm
seems like no matter what I do there is still heat there. I am just going to make it fun. I turned up the boost to around 18-20 psi and took a lttile more out of the main fuel screw. Put the starwheel down some. Now it still runs hot but at least it is fun.

Changed the oil I have about 1,050 miles on it. I did the fuel filter too. I am going to start driving it for work soon. I need to get some bulbs for the headlights, grill, and intercool it hopefully soon.

3" is BA  ;D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Dakotakid on October 15, 2010, 01:03:17 am
I sat and stared at your picture of the end of the tail pipe for quite awhile....I was expecting, yet ANOTHER, Chilean miner to emerge!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: wolfsburged on October 17, 2010, 07:19:50 pm
Looking good!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Thezorn on October 17, 2010, 10:37:18 pm
where did you order the exhaust from?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 17, 2010, 10:56:00 pm
It is just a local shop. Troyers welding in Millersburg. I had a 6 week wait, but it was worth it I think.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 21, 2010, 09:29:08 am
Haven't been driving it. It seems to be building boost, but later in the RPM range. I am going to look at the turbo mounting and see what may have loosed up. The manifold nuts that I can get to seem fine, but I haven't been under the car to get to the turbo.

I bought a boost pin that is stock. As soon as it gets here I will get the fueling sorted out. I still got it hot on monday when I wasn't paying attention. I turned down the fuel 2.5 turns and it still will get hot on a hill. I think you would have to have water meth injection or nitrous to run Giles boost pin. I understand at his stock fueling levels but this is down 2.5 turns and really is just slower not really different. I would go more than 2.5 but I can't get the idle up enough and it really doesn't want to start at that point.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on October 25, 2010, 10:01:19 am
I am starting to look at intercoolers. I want FMIC and thinking around a 28x7 with 2" in/out...what is everyone else running and results. It will be probably spring before the wish becomes reality.

I guess I am thinking is 7 too tall, or would 5" be better. Also the 31" wide would it be better than the 28 or too laggy. Or would it just not fit.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 02, 2010, 09:48:40 am
Well it must be an ohio thing. Just as Lord V had a turbo leak and an oil leak so did I. The #1 ex. port gasket had blown out and I was losing a little to spin the turbo. And I had a turbo oil drain leak. I fixed both this Saturday. No more oil leak

BUT

EGT is pretty much unchanged. I was really hoping that by not losing ex. gas would spool turbo more and more air = less heat. Basically all that is happening is the turbo is spooling quicker, but no difference in the getting to 1,200F.

Anyhow, I bought a stock boost pin off of 410 on here and sometime this week I will try installing that. It is also about 30-40F temps here so I thought that would help EGT as well ::)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Powered by Spearco on November 02, 2010, 11:53:14 pm
Maybe its been asked, but have you tried a different thermo probe and gauge?  ::)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 03, 2010, 07:01:52 am
nope
but it has been tested
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Powered by Spearco on November 04, 2010, 12:04:06 am
You need an intercooler then.
My pump from Giles and my engine setup, build heat fairly quick too. But I'm intercooled. It really helps.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 04, 2010, 06:24:30 am
I was hoping to get away with it over winter. It was 25F here yesterday morning and really no change in EGT for the most part. I rotated the pin to least aggressive and 1,2 and sometimes 3rd I can hold it to the floor with it going to 1150 to at most 1,200F. 3rd sometimes will be too close to 1,000F after the shift and shoot right up to 1,200F by the time it boosts. For those temps I was hoping for it to run better than what it does. If I add the IC and temps come down 200F I still really won't be able to dump much more fuel in will I? Where Giles had it set it was great for power, but I couldn't get over 1/2 pedal before 1,200F in any gear...would an IC make that much difference? It was 85F when that was going on too, I figured with the 50+ cooler outside air temp it would help a lot,  but so far I haven't seen much.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 410 on November 04, 2010, 09:23:55 am
An intercooler will make a big difference imo.  I still think that your static timing is a pinch on the retarded side.  If the timing was set to .85mm I would try .95-1.0mm.  I know Giles said no to the timing but just try it.  I think you will be pleasantly surprised at the effect it has on egts.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 04, 2010, 09:32:05 am
I was thinking the same.
What about this? I measured the incorrect core support I have and it seems between the headlights I have 31" and below the support lip about 8" so some modding required. I originally thought of the 28x7x2.5 size, but since the egt is so messy I am thinking of this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing-Universal-Front-Mount-BK-INTERCOOLER-29x11x3-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5219c391QQitemZ250485523345QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 410 on November 04, 2010, 07:55:30 pm
Any intercooler will do.  Look at the size of the factory tdi intercooler.  It's tiny!  My intercooler core is about 12x12 and 3" thick and works very well.  Get something that fits and you'll be happy.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 410 on November 05, 2010, 07:08:56 pm
I had a look at the link for the intercooler in your last post and that thing is huge!  I would go with something a little smaller that fits nicely instead.  Turbo lag might bother you with such a large intercooler.  I assume you received the boost pins I sent you?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 05, 2010, 10:23:52 pm
Yeah I got them. I haven't tried the custom one.

I finally got it to a fun stage. The car has to be just about empty, but I can run it hard now. Most of the time it will only get to about 1150. I just don't think it runs as good as it should. It is fast, but not quick. It is hard to explain.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: AudiVWguy on November 05, 2010, 11:59:18 pm
Think about running water injection. I went to the junk yard and found that the old toyota Cressida windshield washer pumps put out 40 psi. I mounted two of these into a subaru I think, windshield washer reservoir. McMaster Carr sells 40 psi misting nozzles in various sizes. Add a boost pressure switch to activate the pumps at whatever psi you want. I can watch the EGT's rise under boost until the sprayer kicks in, then they almost stop. I'm also steam cleaning the engine as I drive. ;D
The point is every little bit helps.

--- Biggest down pipe you can fit
--- Intercooler
--- Water injection
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: dankcorey22 on November 06, 2010, 01:17:49 am
Check out my intercooler on my tdi its 3" thick but i dont really know the dimensions off the top of my head. it was a 1st gen eurojet kit for $400 and still had to cut and modify to fit  >:( but oh well...lol

(http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv74/dankcorey22/0115102213.jpg)

(http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv74/dankcorey22/0116101546.jpg)

Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 06, 2010, 08:38:58 am
Think about running water injection. I went to the junk yard and found that the old toyota Cressida windshield washer pumps put out 40 psi. I mounted two of these into a subaru I think, windshield washer reservoir. McMaster Carr sells 40 psi misting nozzles in various sizes. Add a boost pressure switch to activate the pumps at whatever psi you want. I can watch the EGT's rise under boost until the sprayer kicks in, then they almost stop. I'm also steam cleaning the engine as I drive. ;D
The point is every little bit helps.

--- Biggest down pipe you can fit
--- Intercooler
--- Water injection
Thanks. I could do the water injection, I had always just thought of water/meth and the expense is not what I want.
I have a 3" downpipe and 3" no muffler all the way back. I need an IC I guess. I think yesterday being in the 30'sF all day helped EGT finally.
Another thought...would coolant temps hurt combustion to the point of high EGT? My water temp gauge rarely gets over 160F, should I get the highest t stat? I have the lowest one now.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 21, 2010, 11:40:17 am
I changed the oil last night. Last time I put too much in as the first fill took almost 6 quarts, but the engine was fresh. The oil cooler and lines take a little more, but last time was too much. So I put 5 quarts in it last night and it was short what looked to be 1/2 quart. I adjusted the clutch and checked again. It was almost full I probably added 3 oz and it was perfect.
    On the way to church this morning the wife and I park and smell oil. I cleaned the VC off pretty good I had thought, so like almost every stop I pop the hood and look. Everything seems normal except I have 2 pea sized spots of oil on top the VC. I forgot to tighten the oil cap it was just sitting on there. Last night I took it off after starting it to feel for blowby, it didn't have much, and apparently I forgot about it. Now with 10 miles and it didn't move I would think at 7 or 10 thousand miles I will switch to synth.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Smokey Eddy on November 23, 2010, 03:16:21 pm
I like your alternator tensioner. With this colder weather + the occasional dusting of snow my belt is screaming. To the point of smelling like melting rubber...
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 30, 2010, 07:11:33 pm
I am finished with monkeying with the fuel. As soon as I get the chance I am going to reset my timing to 1.00mm against Giles wishes. He said no more than .95 as he builds the advance into the pump and to wait until it has miles more miles on it. It has around 5,000 now and really no change in EGT. I have turned down the fuel to the point the thing won't run until there is boost and it still wants to go over 1,200F under boost. Today it was around 50F outside and it really made me notice it again.
Anyone with tons of experience in TD tuning in the central Ohio area is welcome to come and help/offer suggestions. The sad thing is the less fuel the less power...even when really hot I don't think it runs as good as it should. I guess I can say I am dissappointed with Giles's pump and his lack of interest with my problem. It is my daily now so hopefully on the weekend I can get it done.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on November 30, 2010, 07:37:57 pm
I bought a stock LDA pin and it is set to the least aggressive slop. The Giles pin is ground almost 3/8" at the top and was WAY too much. The max fuel is to the point I cannot gain any speed uphill starting in 1st gear. If I am rolling I can go up in 1st and gain speed if it gets into the boost. It seems no matter what I do it still will get high on the egt, it just takes it longer to get there with less main fuel. I don't have any black smoke either. I thought I had it a while back, but I must of just had some cool air or something that day. It was fun you could run it and only get to 1150, ever since it has been hairy.

It isn't overly rattley and when first started it takes a minute or so to go from white smoke to clear even with the advance lever pulled. I am at my wits end with it. I thank you for the response, but I think I have tried that many times.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 01, 2010, 10:34:26 am
Is there a point when your EGT gauge is too deep? There were no instructions on that that I saw. Maybe mine is too far in giving too much contact and taking more time to cool than it should? The other thing is I am only running 15-16psi tops.

Also my EGT when warm idling only will get down to 300F.

Andrew I wish you were in Ohio and could see this mess/help me.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: vanbcguy on December 01, 2010, 03:03:34 pm
Do you have any extension wires or anything else funky on your EGT probe? 
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build and...
Post by: burn_your_money on December 01, 2010, 05:03:16 pm
1200 is MY limit for short bursts.

I don't mean to sound offensive but I think this is an unrealistic expectation for any sort of performance build.

How did you end up solving the issue of hooking the EGT probe up to the gauge?

What you could try doing if you have a spare pump kicking around is to swap in a shim or two into the advance piston and see how that effects things.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 01, 2010, 05:58:15 pm
Quote
Run it with the line to the LDA disconnected and plugged.  With it set like that, then adjust the max fuel until when floored you get a bit of smoke that will clear when boost rises.
I have done that and this is the results. I never got any smoke I could see and EGT with no enrichment would still go over 1,200. I could without the enrichment easily keep the EGT 1,200 or under by turning the main fuel down, but it wouldn't get out of its own way.

I have less than 5 feet of K type pyro lead I bought off of Libby. I ended up attaching them with the leads provided by the Westach gauge just wrapped around the K type and wire nutted as Vince said not to solider.

I broke it in at 10 psi set with my MBC. That is when the EGT's were so bad I had to let off and downshift to go up a hill. Now at 15psi the EGT still has no signs of stopping when I let off, but it takes it much longer to get to the 1,200F

BYM:
I am willing to go more than 1,200F and have several times since this is a problem, but over and over 1,200F is the limit everyone is saying is safe. If 1,600F is safe I know I could do that in another 1/2 second floored after I hit 1,200F. This is my daily work car and I can't melt it down though. Sadly I have no other pump.
Thanks for all the replies eventually I know I will work this out, but I was hoping it wouldn't take as long as it has.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: burn_your_money on December 01, 2010, 09:35:13 pm
How hot have you gone? Does it plateau at a given temperature? The few heavily tuned vw diesels I have been in seemed to always spike to around 1600 and then hold it there on hard runs.

Is there any chance of getting a video of your gauges in action?

The shim would fit in a regular envelope so maybe someone with a pump torn down can send you a few to borrow for testing purposes.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 01, 2010, 11:22:20 pm
I have a KKK K24 with Giles Pump and Giles rebuilt injectors. All engine, pump, injectors, have 5,000 miles. All were installed new at the same time.
I have old video here:
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=106764485&release=108659160

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7EDf9KOkB2o
That is before with the Giles custom ramp boost pin.
I have the westach gauge and micro 1,000 probe. It reacts fast.
I have had it to 1,300 maybe 5 times. Once was the only time extended maybe 3 to 4 seconds. If it plateaus at a certain temp I haven't seen that temp yet. The 1,300 for 3-4 seconds I wasn't paying close enough attention and in 5th climbing a hill with my foot steady it just got up there.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Merffy on December 20, 2010, 08:29:31 pm
 Hey Lucas; Have U been driving the vw since it turned cold, did ya get the hi boost temp. under control, or decided to wait till the weather warms up, I gota keep mine pluged in to get it started with the low compression, I have the spare motor sitting on back of the truck till I can get it inside to start working on it, Merv
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 21, 2010, 12:15:49 am
no. I got the EGT under control, but now past 1/2 pedal really doesn't do much. I maybe getting an intercooler for Christmas. I can start after 6 hours at 1F no problem so far.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Runt on December 21, 2010, 02:03:26 am
I've been rolling this around in my head for a while now while you have all been discussing it.
I may be way off base, but if you have timing close, and fuel down to the point of no smoke and low power, I can't see any way you should get the egt's you are.  Would you be willing/able to remove the wirenuts on the off chance that they are doing something weird?  Perhaps just the wires twisted tight and a wrap of tape?  I don't know that the wirenuts should cause a problem, but I do know that there are very specific connectors made for connecting thermocouples to prevent any dissimilar metal junctions.  Wirenuts would certainly introduce a dissimilar metal.  For lack of a better idea, I think that I would try twisting the cleaned wires tightly together, then seal with quality heatshrink, then gently crimp on one of the crimp sleeves that look like wirenuts.  Just be careful not to crimp through the heatshrink.
It probably won't, but I hope this helps.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 22, 2010, 11:07:37 am
I've been rolling this around in my head for a while now while you have all been discussing it.
I may be way off base, but if you have timing close, and fuel down to the point of no smoke and low power, I can't see any way you should get the egt's you are.  Would you be willing/able to remove the wirenuts on the off chance that they are doing something weird?  Perhaps just the wires twisted tight and a wrap of tape?  I don't know that the wirenuts should cause a problem, but I do know that there are very specific connectors made for connecting thermocouples to prevent any dissimilar metal junctions.  Wirenuts would certainly introduce a dissimilar metal.  For lack of a better idea, I think that I would try twisting the cleaned wires tightly together, then seal with quality heatshrink, then gently crimp on one of the crimp sleeves that look like wirenuts.  Just be careful not to crimp through the heatshrink.
It probably won't, but I hope this helps.

I am going to do this suggestion a little differently. I will just take out the wire twist them real good, then tape them and put the wire nut on and tape that on so it doesn't come off. If it changes I will let you all know.
I checked timing a while back and it is at .0376 ish still. I am going to bump it to .038 next time and see. I have crackling/marbles on plate only when cold*under 20F*, cold advance lever pulled, and it is first started.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 27, 2010, 09:22:49 pm
I have done 3 stages of brakes...
In the meantime I have had no time to mess with the EGT stuff. Yesterday I was dusting the dust off the face of the gauge with my finger and the needle started moving erradically sp?. M F not just my engine code ... it is my life with this M F car. The gauge still is messed everytime I wipe my finger over it the gauge bounces up and down about 200F... What to do now? see if westach has a warranty or if I have another problem?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Powered by Spearco on December 28, 2010, 12:17:25 am
Is the dust causing the incorrect EGT reading.

You said every time you wipe it, it moves 200 deg. Is that with the engine running?

What happens when you blow off the gauge with shop air, better yet computer cleaner air?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 28, 2010, 08:22:06 am
If I just touch the gauge, not any harder than it takes to type, with the engine running it jumps up and down. Haven't tried it with the engine off. Sometimes it jumps up 300F and stays there, sometimes it falls 150F and stays there. It will climb with acceleration and you can touch the face of the gauge and it moves all around similar to what it does at idle. The vibration of the engine can make the needle change but it isn't a jump just a smooth addition to the EGT.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RadoTD on December 28, 2010, 12:00:05 pm
That's pretty weird... hopefully it is the fix to your EGT problem though! Too bad you aren't local, I'd lend you my gauge to test it out
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 81 vw pu on December 28, 2010, 03:50:59 pm
I have done 3 stages of brakes...
In the meantime I have had no time to mess with the EGT stuff. Yesterday I was dusting the dust off the face of the gauge with my finger and the needle started moving erradically sp?. M F not just my engine code ... it is my life with this M F car. The gauge still is messed everytime I wipe my finger over it the gauge bounces up and down about 200F... What to do now? see if westach has a warranty or if I have another problem?

I read this yesterday and checked my egt guage this morning and it does the exact same thing. I do have a different guage than you, its the westach 2c2-19 with the 200-1400 face.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 28, 2010, 04:56:44 pm
It does it with the car off as well. Just touch it and it will go up... with the car not running it won't go below 100F only will go up. Hard to guess but I would say this has been the problem and reason one day the EGT would seem fine and the next giving me fits.

How do I "fix" it. I would say if it stays in its bottom position it is accurate. It is weird now, wiping my finger on the gauge, flogging it, and not getting over 1050F.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Runt on December 29, 2010, 01:58:55 am
I am sure that I'm stating the obvious, but do not trust any (high, normal, or low) reading until the guage does not exhibit this behavior.
It sounds to me like a ground loop issue.  Considering that these guages read on a mV scale, just a slight difference in potential between grounding points could make a big difference.  I'd double check all signal (thermocouple) connections to rule out anything else, and then I'd start by running at least a temporary ground wire, minimum 12 gauge (overkill, but the sub ohm resistance of a smaller wire may still cause some differences in potential), from the TC probe at the exhaust manifold, directly to the gauge.  Also double check that the gauge is well grounded.  If you have a good quality sensitive multimeter, check for mV readings between the TC shield (if you can get to it) and battery negative post, and the gauge ground wire to battery, and the guage body to battery.  Go directly to the battery post, not the terminal, as dirty terminals is one thing that you may diagnose with this.  While you are at it, it wouldnt hurt to check your ground wires/points to battery.
If you have access to another meter/guage, that could be used to check for a faulty gauge, although that is unlikely it is not impossible.  I would want to check/calibrate the guage once this issue was sorted anyways, before I trusted the gauge again. 
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 29, 2010, 08:31:09 am
where would I hook up the ground at the gauge?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: lord_verminaard on December 29, 2010, 10:58:13 am
I bet that is about enough to make you sick.  Should have used the VDO gauge.  ;)

The Golf is running great lately.  Boost is low, but so are the EGT's and it has ample power.  Nearly zero smoke too, only off-boost and when I am really digging on it.  Part of it I think is that the engine is just now starting to "break in".  We estimated about 18k miles on it since the rebuild, now that the speedo works we can get a better idea of mpg and such.

Boost is maxing out at 12 psi or so, that's like a full pull in 3rd or 4th.  Still spools slower than I'd like.  And more fuel up top would help too.

One step at a time.

I hope you get your gauge figured out.  Now, the real question- do you remember how to take the Giles pump back to the way Giles had it set up?  ;)

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 29, 2010, 11:37:36 am
Quote
I hope you get your gauge figured out.  Now, the real question- do you remember how to take the Giles pump back to the way Giles had it set up?
 

Well, rotate the boost pin to Giles ground part, raise the starwheel 2 turns, and get it to where 3 threads are showing on the torx drive above the nut on the top of the LDA. Main fuel is right at where he had it give or take 1/16 of a turn.

As much of a TD noob I am I kept pretty good records of where crap was at...just in case something like a bad probe or gauge was found.

Now I know why it was such a turd. I seem to believe the 1050 max EGT. I could do alot to get it up to 1,200-1,400 F as those have said was ok for short bursts. I am going to mess with it minimally until I get my late Christmas present = intercooler and when that comes I will see what I can do. That is if I can trust the gauge or have a new one by then.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Runt on December 31, 2010, 07:24:28 pm
where would I hook up the ground at the gauge?
I would start by grounding the gauge body.  After a little research, I see that you cannot do much more than that.
I wonder if you disconnect the gauge pigtail from the TC, what would the gauge do? If it does anything, the guage is BAD.
I also see that westach suggests using NORMAL wire to extend the TC connections.  See: http://www.acro.co.uk/html/Wiring/single_cht.htm (http://www.acro.co.uk/html/Wiring/single_cht.htm)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 81 vw pu on January 04, 2011, 02:49:11 am
where would I hook up the ground at the gauge?
I would start by grounding the gauge body.  After a little research, I see that you cannot do much more than that.
I wonder if you disconnect the gauge pigtail from the TC, what would the gauge do? If it does anything, the guage is BAD.
I also see that westach suggests using NORMAL wire to extend the TC connections.  See: http://www.acro.co.uk/html/Wiring/single_cht.htm (http://www.acro.co.uk/html/Wiring/single_cht.htm)

On my westach 2c2-19 the gauge body is all plastic except the glass. When I touch the plastic the needle is not affected, only when I touch the glass over the needle. I did notice when I moved my finger from left to right on the glass the needle went down and right to left it went up.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on January 04, 2011, 08:52:19 am
That is what I am getting. It isn't everyday, as sometimes it will do nothing when I touch it. Some days I don't even have to touch it just hold my finger close and it will follow it. I tested this before install, and all was well, so either I broke something or the running vehicle did. I would assume ME as the problem. Either way I think I will buy another gauge like an autometer K type and see if that fixes it. I didn't like the way the Westach fit in my space so far. It is for a 2-1/16" hole, but the face is about 2-1/4" and hits my other gauge. I had to sand a little of the bottom to get it to fit and thought that might be the problem, but if another has the same issue then I will not take all the blame :D

Just did a search on pyrometer problems and they said that a kinked wire could cause trouble. The one in question was an autometer and it should be putting out 1 to 2 millivolts at ambient air temp. I need to get a great fluke or similar meter and test the TC before doing much else. The gauge itself is normally not the problem aparently. As hard as it was to get all the wires through the firewall in one convienient hole I bet I damaged something.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: VW Smokr on January 05, 2011, 07:55:53 am
Both my VDO and Isspro pyrometers exhibit that needle fluctuation issue when given the finger... rub. A lot of tachometers do the same. Just assumed it was static electricity charge building up. It seems to go away after a few seconds to a minute or so. Making sure the case is grounded might help, or not; the VDO has a plastic case anyway.

Try not to dust your gauges at highway speeds... it's all too easy to lose control of the burger or taco in the other hand, or spill your beer into the cell phone ! :)

J.R.
SoCal
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on January 17, 2011, 10:33:33 am
Pyro seems to be settling in???

For all whom are doing ball joints this may save you....There is a big and small ball joint. Stock 86 is a small BJ as far as I know. My previous owner must have had a junk spindle at one time and replaced it with at big BJ spindle. When you put a small BJ in the Big BJ spot you can crush that pinch point all you want, but the BJ will continue to fall out. All it does is make it harder to put the big BJ in once you figure it out.
I need to buy a new big BJ. I am going to be running the old junker for now. There is no way to know until it is apart and since a replaced the control arms I didn't even look at the old BJ. Luckily I didn't drive it I just shook it to see if my poly bushings were squeaky and the car ended up fender on tire.
Anyone have use or would trade German small BJ for German big BJ???
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Dakotakid on January 17, 2011, 02:06:20 pm
I would be glad to take it off your hands, Lucas.
I don't think I have any larger ones right now. I would have to check.
Do you happen to know what mm. measurement the bigger ones are? I might have one....seems like I bought two for the GTI and never needed them....been along time. Consider it sold if you need to go buy a new one.
Contact me in pm or email.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Jettagli16v on January 23, 2011, 04:01:33 pm
Yeah, the big/small BJ issue is
(according to my local parts Haus)
basically from 85-89, you could have either, (unless you have big brakes - GTI/GLi were all big).
Went through that myself,
Put the car on the lift, disassembled everything,
and had my 2 brand new BJs to put in, .... Wrong size!
(And I really killed the old ones getting them out.... Had to smash the crap back together, drive to parts store, and put it back up and disassemble again!)

As a point of reference on EGT,
My 85 TD will peak at 1250, 5th gear WOT.
(19 PSI, 3" turbo-back, stock pump, no adjustments. Aircraft/Spruce thermocouple & VDO gauge)
It used to be 1550 WOT 5th, in stock form (no mods).
Bringing the boost to 19 (from the factory 10) brought my EGT to 1450.
Adding a 3" turbo back exhaust brought me down to 1250.
But the thing is easily 16v quick, or quicker on the boost.

Great build,
hopefully one day you can actually DRIVE the thing!!
keep us in the loop!

-Brad
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: R.O.R-2.0 on January 23, 2011, 04:11:32 pm
if your brake caliper retainer does not un bolt, you need small ball joints..

if you have a caliper retainer that un bolts, or you have a car newer than an 89.5, you need bigger ones.

the small ones are 17mm diameter, the big ones are 19mm..

i went to put GLI suspension on my 85 GTI, and i didnt know that there was a difference in ball joints at the time..

thank god i had the whole GLI as parts, so i took the right ball joints off it and put them on the GTI.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Dakotakid on January 23, 2011, 04:49:42 pm
....and thank you for those numbers (17 and 19).
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: R.O.R-2.0 on January 23, 2011, 04:52:19 pm
....and thank you for those numbers (17 and 19).

not a problem..

bout didnt believe my eyes when i saw that mk2s also have 2 different sizes of BJs.. thought that was a mk1 only thing.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on February 05, 2011, 01:14:17 pm
Won't be long until summer temps. I got a bunch of 2" piping as well. I measured and ordered this off cxracing or something like that off ebay. Said 28x7x2.5 and it measures 28-7/16 x 7-3/8 x 2-5/8 That sucks as the extra 3/8" on the 7 measurement is killing where I wanted to put it.
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/76/l_68664b30de2b45e98d0a1d98e1827f5f.jpg)
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Thezorn on February 05, 2011, 03:28:43 pm
I have the exact same one. Seemed to work well, didnt leak and didnt loose any boost either.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: TurboJ on May 17, 2011, 05:50:52 pm
Your Jetta looks way nice now :)
Good job with the engine and all!

How are things with the EGT problem nowadays?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on May 17, 2011, 06:45:15 pm
It is getting better EGT wise. I have been trying to make the IC work, but it won't fit outside the car. I have to take it all apart and then piece it together. I have been doing maintenance stuff for so long I haven't had time to mess with too much. I was going to have this weekend and get it done, but it isn't possible now. The problem I am running into is the oil cooler I am running+rad+A/C condensor+core support+too thick IC is not making it easy. Hopefully soon.

On side note...if I have too much trouble I will add my 2256vk turbo and AKI's manifold and forget my A/C dreams : D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on May 28, 2011, 10:46:33 pm
Well, I was at it 8 hours plus today. I had to call the wife to pick me up 'cause I wasn't done. Tomorrow I will have the 7" rounds and the IC in...if the parts store has a reducer for me and I have the day to get it done.

There is no A/C going in. I would have to move the rad. I had to weld my core support back together as I shaved it a little too thin in some spots. I just hope that I will be able to get it fast without melting it down now.

Last night I did the wheel cylinders and changed the trans oil. The oil looked horrible and it has only been about 20,000 miles.

If and when I get it done I will snap a pic of it all in there.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on May 30, 2011, 10:09:26 pm
Well...I was working on it until 2:30 last night. It is in but I have a lot of playing to do. I didn't touch the boost controller but I moved the boost gauge input and picked up 2 psi over the wastegate spot so the IC is working.

Results so far: Low RPM lag, but crisper pedal input. Mid RPM pulls more and high RPM STILL way too hot...but I plan on going to 22 to 25psi to help that. If it doesn't fix it I am going to call no joy.

I will post pics of the 7" rounds. They def are nice.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 01, 2011, 09:47:26 am
(http://a2.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/114/a536d7d0688548afa7c0bc29a0ab82c3/l.jpg)
(http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/f89197abfe1445e78d2ee30efc9ddedb/l.jpg)
(http://a3.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/117/8fefef3f99cb47b5b974630086d4c439/l.jpg)
(http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/136/ad66914c789c48c289ebc2f102d41f5e/l.jpg)

I cranked up the boost controller and only can get 20psi BUT I could still peg the egt gauge if I was stupid with it. It has slowed down a ton and it much more driveable.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Dakotakid on June 01, 2011, 10:19:09 am
Accolades and applause to you, Lucas, for taking a car which was so rusty and turning it into such a nice/attractive daily driver! Very nice and uncluttered under the hood. Now, just don't go hitting any deer, EH!
DAILY DRIVERS RULE! :D
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: dankcorey22 on June 02, 2011, 12:26:45 am
Awesome piping Lucas!

 Did you have to get a different alternator pulley when you deleted your A/C compressor?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 02, 2011, 08:12:19 am
The alt was robbed out of my GTI. So yeah kind of needed different pulley but it was already on the the alt. I also just cut the mount and drilled a hole bigger as the gasser has a smaller bolt than the diesel.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: TurboJ on June 02, 2011, 06:34:38 pm
Looking great!

I'm glad to see how it all has come together! It's inspiration for me too, to keep motivated working all of this summer to finally get my TD ready to rock.

Enjoy your beast!
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: lord_verminaard on June 07, 2011, 02:14:02 pm
Looks good man!  I still have not installed my IC.  Hell, I still haven't picked up that engine from you yet... lol!

Sorry I missed your call the other day, I was at our annual Scirocco "Cincy" event and didn't have my phone handy during the day.

But to answer your question, I max out EGT around 1100F at 75 MPH cruise on the highway if it is level and there is little wind resistance.  I get no boost at that speed.

My max boost is about 12 psi right now, that's if I wind out the crap out of it at the very top of 3rd gear.  Normally don't get more than 8 psi during daily drives.  I don't get any boost at all unless I floor it, actually.  :P  I get a good amount of smoke under WOT with no boost, but once boost starts I don't have any.  (but boost doesn't start until probably 3200 rpm at least)

Brendan
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on July 23, 2011, 09:27:16 am
EGT is still an issue, but it was 110F the other day. I can take it up to around 1500-1600F and then it stops. It climbs much slower over 1300F than it does before that point. Now that I have been driving it for 2 months with intercooler on I have never dipped below 42mpg and have 3 tanks at 47mpg. I can only make 21psi boost now. Overall I like it now.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RadoTD on July 23, 2011, 02:52:17 pm
Whoa! Out of curiosity, what's the longest you've held it 1500+ before?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on July 23, 2011, 06:51:39 pm
about 1/2 a second then let off. It hasn't been held there, I just wanted to see if it would platueu. It does right around that 15-16 mark.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on August 06, 2011, 11:28:39 am
I had a bad oil leak. It ended up being the filter housing was almost loose. I tapped and cleaned every bolt hole on the engine when built. I did not use blue threadlocker the first time, but I did this time. Each bolt was about a 1/16 of a turn from being able to turn it by hand. It hasn't leaked now in 2 days since fixing so I think I got it.
I hope I got it. I HATE cleaning concrete.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on August 19, 2011, 08:10:44 am
Update on EGT.
I had Lord Verminaard drive this car and ride with me to give his opinion. We took a several mile trip with some mixed driving and his conclusion is pretty much similar to mine. I need more air...or less pump. It boosts good to a certain point then at max boost I still have much more fuel to give it and it doesn't want it. So the 2256vk that I have will be going on at some point. I am hoping to return the settings to Giles standard when that happens. If I get the big turbo on there and it still has issues then I will send the pump back to get looked at.
As is I finally have it tuned to a somewhat fun state, but since I still have the main screw turned down a bunch it doesn't have the snap that I think it should. Even with the boost pin screwed down a bunch. That and when I tried to get the wife to drive it she ripped the trans mount and front mount up, or finished them off. She is great at clutch driving, even took her test in a manual car, but couldn't get this 200 yards from the driveway. This clutch really takes some getting used to. She wasn't in the mood to learn it and just gave it more fuel. When you don't drive this like a tractor now it sounds like the firewall is being ripped out. New mounts to go in this weekend LOL
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on August 22, 2011, 09:30:53 pm
I adjusted some valves last night. 6 of 8 needed adjusting. I have seen a decrease in egt. Not much but I will take every degree I can :>
I also replaced the front mount my wife ripped out with the BFI industries G60 front mount and worlds of better. I didn't get the trans mount in or the rear insert. I would like to do the trans mount next as it is poly stage 1. Any suggestions on how to get at it, or the easiest way to change that mount in an MK2?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RadoTD on August 22, 2011, 09:39:31 pm
I don't remember how I replaced my trans mount last time, but I do remember that I took out more bolts than I needed to! I think if you just undo the 17mm bolt on top, the couple on the bottom of the mount, you can lift the trans enough to pull it out that way

And are you saying that BFI's G60 mount is better than the stock? Was it stiffer or softer?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on August 22, 2011, 09:43:55 pm
Stiffer than the stock rubber mount I had. The wife ripped mine out so it was a lot better. But even before she did that I think that this mount of theirs is a ton better than my whipped on stock one.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: R.O.R-2.0 on August 25, 2011, 02:48:29 pm
Whoa! Out of curiosity, what's the longest you've held it 1500+ before?

like probably a minute before..
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 03, 2011, 11:43:54 am
Well, for the celebration of the birth of Christ I am sending back the Giles pump to see if he has anymore magic to do to her.

I took it off last night and replaced it with a 12mm Cummins pump. I have it timed and hopefully after I eat and clean the chimney I will have it running. If not I will have to get it back on before work Monday.

On another note as I was reading my stuff above, I did get the poly engine and trans mounts. I installed both, drove 1/2 mile, turned around drove another 1/2 mile home, and took the rear engine poly mount out. Too much vibration at idle-2,000rpm, but running down the road it was awesome. I left the poly trans mount in and it has worn in well. It was still a bit much at first, but now it only vibrates bad at idle.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RadoTD on December 03, 2011, 08:47:06 pm
Well, for the celebration of the birth of Christ I am sending back the Giles pump to see if he has anymore magic to do to her.

I took it off last night and replaced it with a 12mm Cummins pump. I have it timed and hopefully after I eat and clean the chimney I will have it running. If not I will have to get it back on before work Monday.

On another note as I was reading my stuff above, I did get the poly engine and trans mounts. I installed both, drove 1/2 mile, turned around drove another 1/2 mile home, and took the rear engine poly mount out. Too much vibration at idle-2,000rpm, but running down the road it was awesome. I left the poly trans mount in and it has worn in well. It was still a bit much at first, but now it only vibrates bad at idle.

Good to know about the poly mounts... what are you running up front?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on December 03, 2011, 09:22:28 pm
Look at your and my posts up maybe 4 posts, starting at post 330...hint, G60 bfi mount :D
Got it running, tons of snap, but we will see about power. I haven't got to take it out for the road test yet. I have it timed per Giles recommendation to right about 1.28mm. Still a bit of white at cold idle, but seems to be ok. I always had a little white even with the Giles pump.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RadoTD on December 03, 2011, 10:34:38 pm
Haha oh man, that's embarrassing! :P
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on April 03, 2012, 08:19:05 am
http://www.myspace.com/thefunnestmanalive/photos/albums/vw/1801086#mssrc=SitesPhotos_SP_AlbumCover_ViewAlbum

That is a link to myspace where I have all the pics. For whatever reason most of the pics from this thread aren't active here anymore, but they are over there. If you are needing something you can go through the pics if you want. I don't feel like reposting all of them right now.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on April 10, 2012, 09:38:34 pm
Finally starting Round 2 of this.

Here is what I have decided. I have around 300.00 of parts in an autohaus cart. I paid for 2 cylinderheads for my 1.6. I am going to do another 1.6. Then when things simmer down I will do an aaz. I figure I will have around 1,400.00 in the build that I am going to do and a special cylinder head will be made. I also will be glueing in the precups. I might be running an N/A head as the precups are supposed to be a tick smaller than the TD for a little less (read .5) compression. I will start the ROUND 2 thread when it all comes together.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 8v-of-fury on April 10, 2012, 10:22:13 pm
Would a smaller pre-cup (thus less space) not actually raise compression? (albeit .5)

Sounds good to me man, seeing as how you hate the ALH so much lol.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on April 11, 2012, 07:58:11 am
Yep...once again I wrote what I am meaning in reverse. The TD precups are supposed to be the tick smaller and yeild the .5 point of compression. From what others have said the TD and 1.5 had the same precup. I know that precups have different faces as one measures 30mm across and the other 32mm. The N/A has the 32mm face as far as I can tell and should give me a bit more surface area for my "glue" and the head to hold onto...I hope.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 16, 2012, 05:32:11 pm
Just got the call from the engine borer... the crank and bores were fine. He was considering honing and putting it back since he couldn't find pistons for it....but I had given him pistons to bore the motor to. He eventually found them. He said it would be about a week. He also found a sleeve for the intermediate shaft. THe mains and rods he said showed little to no wear at all and I could reuse the thrust washers :D
    I also took apart the head last night. I will hopefully be sending it and the IP out tomorrow. FULL PORT and undercut valve job for the head and GILES for the IP and injectors...you only live once right? I am breaking the bank for this so I hope all goes perfectly and no problems or do overs. I am hoping with the Giles IP and injectors and the fully ported head to make some more HP over stock, but still get some mileage. I will post some before and after head port pics as soon as I get it back.
Way back when, I was hoping that it all went perfectly...it didn't. I have posted the precup pics and will add the block pics soon. Should have the engine back soon and I have planned to have it running by the first week in July. It will depend on the machinist as I am pretty much ready to go on with this.

Side note, anyone have absolutely no issues with their pic hosters? Myspace just isn't really reliable as you can see.
(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/ad462188ad4644a7955c1f28c95f16b3/l.jpg)






Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 16, 2012, 08:52:16 pm
(http://a2.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/51/ee3a7b8ebb6d45eaa43bd420c00a569c/l.jpg)
(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/148/f33e7e8931d84f4f9a5a0e9da62be9c7/l.jpg)
(http://a3.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/139/f07261db68ae46ab8f9c118f8974a62e/l.jpg)
(http://a1.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/154/00c0833f630f42719cece9ae91da3303/l.jpg)
This is what it should have looked more like...you can still see a perfect crosshatch after 40,000 miles and I didn't use a douche bottle and sandpaper to hone it  ;) It has some rust and vertical scratches from hammering the pistons out, but otherwise I think it looks fantastic.
(http://a2.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/155/fae7779d478244088d9ae8d966121320/l.jpg)



Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: RabbitJockey on June 17, 2012, 12:25:57 am
I see u do not believe in them but where can I buy a douche bottle XD
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: Dakotakid on June 17, 2012, 12:58:28 am
Did vinegar cause that rust? Err.....was it strawberry?
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 17, 2012, 12:33:13 pm
All the carnage and you guys actually read...LOL

Rust was caused as I kept it outside when I saw there was no easy way to resurect this one.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: libbydiesel on June 17, 2012, 12:37:48 pm
(http://a2.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/155/fae7779d478244088d9ae8d966121320/l.jpg)

That's obviously a yeast infection.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 17, 2012, 12:42:54 pm
thank you sir...I just spit on my monitor a little.

I waited to pull and post this stuff when I wouldn't be such an idiot about it and could take a joke. Mission accomplished. I don't feel tender about this at all now. I actually feel better as all the stuff I did *besides the extra heat* didn't hurt this engine at all. All of the main and rod bearings look unharmed. Next time I know if I hear a little bit of a slight knock to shut it down and do not restart.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 25, 2012, 09:27:13 pm
(http://a2.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/151/f3bd1473cfb747858dcda27745d207d4/l.jpg)
(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/61/c3f66f83158c42e48fe13ed25a439870/l.jpg)
(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/151/0fd56f8bc7c249d585e8d514c22467b4/l.jpg)
(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/140/b6a8a384776b4e90be36820cc4ec0847/l.jpg)

That is what is left of #3 in the old 1.6. The Prothe piston did not hold up as well as the valves did. Not that I think anything would have, but I will not buy these again. Just on principle if nothing else.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: libbydiesel on June 26, 2012, 11:01:23 am
Wow, that's a nice artifact.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: CrazyAndy on June 26, 2012, 12:07:28 pm
Well that makes me nervous on running ARCO's in my AAZ.
Title: Re: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: shwak23 on June 29, 2012, 04:44:25 pm
I would use photobucket. As long as you don't move the pictures from album to album once you post them somewhere.

Sent from my DROID X2
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: 1.9aaz on July 22, 2012, 10:56:06 pm
Well that makes me nervous on running ARCO's in my AAZ.

I have them too and run a lot of boost/fuel and have had no problems. They are even skirt/top coated! They are OEM for Isuzu I believe. Not to worry,
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: CarlosA on July 23, 2012, 08:43:47 pm
I have that same broken spot on the bottom of a cylinder on an engine I just got to rebuild .. think its useable that way? I wasn`t sure so kinda  gave up for a bit.
Title: Re: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D
Post by: theman53 on June 23, 2013, 04:40:55 pm
I was putting together my other 1.6 for this car and while rummaging for parts I found the leftover pieces of Precup from this engine. Put them up to the magnet and they are not magnetic. This tells me they were the Inconel precups. I would like to make this note as others have said that the Steel ones were better. So this failure was the Inconel precup.


For the record, I got lucky and the new head is the Steel/magnetic precups.