VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 79rabbit4dr on October 23, 2008, 04:36:45 pm
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I can't remember where I was reading, mod's feel free to move if you know where the post is, but someone had asked the question if you could lock the cam in 180∘out. So when I was doing my t-belt etc. I snapped some cell phone pix. Sorry for crappy pixelation, but it gets the point across.
180∘out but looking down. You COULD potentially slide something in there at a pretty bad angle, but it'd be obviously wrong.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYC4He-uI/AAAAAAAABgY/Z-KfR0d_FfU/s800/101708_1236%5B00%5D.jpg)
180∘out looking right on
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYC8vd6wI/AAAAAAAABgU/Rfa6iFEQ_gk/s800/101708_1236%5B01%5D.jpg)
TDC proper #1 cyl
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYCrhOnHI/AAAAAAAABgQ/Zzuw32fL3Tw/s800/101708_1238%5B00%5D.jpg)
flywheel mark for TDC
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYCVcvrdI/AAAAAAAABgM/3Ji84017Hf4/s800/101708_1239%5B00%5D.jpg)
flywheel mark up close
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYCI9QwiI/AAAAAAAABgI/quXnKjDZH6o/s800/101708_1239%5B01%5D.jpg)
lobes create a flat spot on top , both pointing up as much as they can at the same time
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYB1wiMBI/AAAAAAAABgE/L-TPpyDnFcs/s800/101708_1239%5B02%5D.jpg)
view of lobes from above
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYBkku17I/AAAAAAAABgA/-9PMN33Pa0k/s800/101708_1240%5B00%5D.jpg)
IP locked in
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYA2ttEII/AAAAAAAABf4/0h7GaDrSzy0/s800/101708_1241%5B00%5D.jpg)
cam locked in
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYAo4mxnI/AAAAAAAABf0/-kWTOoun7nE/s800/101708_1241%5B01%5D.jpg)
I hope those are useful :D
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if you unscrew that plastic plug in the trans you will find an arrow in the trans that is more visible! i don't know if you knew that or not?
Duane
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Also, the proper cam locking tool will not fit in with the Cam 180 degrees out...
If you were using a wooden lollipop stick or similiar :lol: then it may be possible to bend it to fit!! but the VAG tool only goes in when the slot is in the correct 'upper horizontal' position form my experience.
and as the poster above says, the flywheel mark (which are a bit of a PITA to find until you know what yoru looking for) will confirm the cam position at TDC
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True, but it is possible to get that 180 out with some of the tools I have seen, just remember to keep #1 cam lobes "rabbit ears up" Are all cams like the one shown in picture? I do not remember mine having the groove offset so much.
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if you unscrew that plastic plug in the trans you will find an arrow in the trans that is more visible! i don't know if you knew that or not?
Duane
I did know that, but figured dead center is where they'd put the arrow so I didn't mess with that stupid plug for too long. What's the easiest way to remove that anyway?
the proper cam locking tool will not fit in with the Cam 180 degrees out...
If you were using a wooden lollipop stick or similiar :lol: then it may be possible to bend it to fit!! but the VAG tool only goes in when the slot is in the correct 'upper horizontal' position form my experience.
That is pretty much what the other discussion was talking about, but nobody ever posted pix. I just wanted to show what people were talking about. That is, you CAN lock the cam in 180∘if you try hard enough, but it should be obvious that it is incorrect.
I do not remember mine having the groove offset so much.
it's hard to tell unless you specifically look for it, everyone should know that it is offset, but the point is it's offset to the point where it's impossible to lock the cam in 180∘out when using the proper tools. the problem was someone was asking if they could just use anything that would slide into place.
... :oops:
I was going to plug Vince's write-up so I pulled up the site, re-read some of the comments on there and that might be where the discussion was happening that I remembered. Anyway, I printed his write up and had my Bentley open to make sure I didn't screw anything up. People make it out to be scarier than it actually is, imo.
p.s. http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28
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Easiest way I have found to remove the transmission plug is to put a 27mm (or 1 1/16") nut in it and then put a socket on it and unscrew it.
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Easiest way I have found to remove the transmission plug is to put a 27mm (or 1 1/16") nut in it and then put a socket on it and unscrew it.
actually a bolt and 2nuts locked against each other! stick one side in the plug and the other for the socket to unscrew! works well!
Duane
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both are good idea's but most of us can use what we already have without buying something. an injector body! 27mm
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both are good idea's but most of us can use what we already have without buying something. an injector body! 27mm
this is my first one, and i didn't get any spare parts so it looks like it's the 27mm bolt and nuts for me.
thanks everyone!
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both are good idea's but most of us can use what we already have without buying something. an injector body! 27mm
this is my first one, and i didn't get any spare parts so it looks like it's the 27mm bolt and nuts for me.
thanks everyone!
I win!!!! :P :P
:D Duane
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both are good idea's but most of us can use what we already have without buying something. an injector body! 27mm
this is my first one, and i didn't get any spare parts so it looks like it's the 27mm bolt and nuts for me.
thanks everyone!
I win!!!! :P :P
:D Duane
:roll: you're awesome Duane. Bet you're a cool guy to hang with. Can't be too bad w/ that truck you got :twisted:
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both are good idea's but most of us can use what we already have without buying something. an injector body! 27mm
this is my first one, and i didn't get any spare parts so it looks like it's the 27mm bolt and nuts for me.
thanks everyone!
I win!!!! :P :P
:D Duane
:roll: you're awesome Duane. Bet you're a cool guy to hang with. Can't be too bad w/ that truck you got :twisted:
ahh shucks thanks buddy! but you know what they say?
if you can't baffle them with brilliance? hassle them with bull***! :wink:
Duane
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both are good idea's but most of us can use what we already have without buying something. an injector body! 27mm
this is my first one, and i didn't get any spare parts so it looks like it's the 27mm bolt and nuts for me.
thanks everyone!
I win!!!! :P :P
:D Duane
:roll: you're awesome Duane. Bet you're a cool guy to hang with. Can't be too bad w/ that truck you got :twisted:
ahh shucks thanks buddy! but you know what they say?
if you can't baffle them with brilliance? hassle them with bull***! :wink:
Duane
ya but your idea is alaround better for everyone. i'll try harder next time! :lol:
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I didn't have any of those things. It wasn't the easiest but I just used some vice grips- locking them on the inside and outside of the plug and turning...
Took a few minutes but it come out easy enough!
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I know this is old, but I did once lock the injection pump 180 degrees out while changes my timing belt. No damage was done, it just wouldn't start. I recommend finding TDC locking the injection pump then removing the timing belt for replacement.
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I know this is old, but I did once lock the injection pump 180 degrees out while changes my timing belt. No damage was done, it just wouldn't start. I recommend finding TDC locking the injection pump then removing the timing belt for replacement.
There's also a mark on the IP pulley that aligns with a mark on the IP mount........I might have heard that some pulleys don't have the mark though.
Believe it or not, people have gotten these cars to run timed 180 out :o, idk how but it's never very good.
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Is it really possible to get the injection pump 180 degrees out? The injection pump sprocket is keyed to injection pump shaft. If the injection pump sprocket is lined up with the hole in the timing belt back plate and the pin inserted, doesn't that mean IP is not 180 degrees out?
I know this is old, but I did once lock the injection pump 180 degrees out while changes my timing belt. No damage was done, it just wouldn't start. I recommend finding TDC locking the injection pump then removing the timing belt for replacement.
There's also a mark on the IP pulley that aligns with a mark on the IP mount........I might have heard that some pulleys don't have the mark though.
Believe it or not, people have gotten these cars to run timed 180 out :o, idk how but it's never very good.
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There's also a mark on the IP pulley that aligns with a mark on the IP mount........I might have heard that some pulleys don't have the mark though.
Haven't seen this thread in a while... I've never tried (but always wondered) if the other small whole in the IP sprocket would lock in at 180* out. Buy a small thing of liquid white out and mark it before you remove it. Pictures help too.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYA2ttEII/AAAAAAAABf4/0h7GaDrSzy0/s800/101708_1241%5B00%5D.jpg)
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The other small hole is bigger than the correct small hole and the pin would be very loose in it. I guess if one is dumb enough to use the wrong small hole, one could put the pump any number of degress out.
There's also a mark on the IP pulley that aligns with a mark on the IP mount........I might have heard that some pulleys don't have the mark though.
Haven't seen this thread in a while... I've never tried (but always wondered) if the other small whole in the IP sprocket would lock in at 180* out. Buy a small thing of liquid white out and mark it before you remove it. Pictures help too.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_KwB2ZdY0LDI/TMHYA2ttEII/AAAAAAAABf4/0h7GaDrSzy0/s800/101708_1241%5B00%5D.jpg)
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I do believe the easiest way of finding TDC; Before removing belt!, is find TDC crank mark on flywheel, check for tdc at injection pump, check cam tdc(#1cyl). now you can lock pump with pin.
there are multiple tdc(s). four in each stroke; here we're interested in the combustion/compression stroke, and TDC, im wording it 'mechanical TDC', as cylinder #1 TDC is what we're shooting for. mark on flywheel gives you cyl#1 TDC, both cam lobes pointing 'up' on #1 is cam tdc, and pump locking with pin is injection pump 'tdc'apx. the 'up' (better described in earlier posts) of the camshaft lobes shows you your coming off compression stroke to injection(and combustion)(combustion is increasing/at end on compression cycle/stroke).
if the belt happens to be removed(for whatever reason) I believe the best way to get to TDC is to remove camshaft(Correctly), with cam removed find crank/flywheel tdc and pump tdc. you should consult Bentley for proper way to go from here, I'd just install cam at #1tdc and be fine, but the manual may include more, and the proper way to remove/install camshaft.
the TDC marks I have seen are all stock, and all my marks are on(not including wear). if your marks don't line up correctly I cannt help, but with 1 small timing hole(or the correct pump hole for pin) and lock pump with pin, and go from there. this is for standard/stock TDC marks.
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I do believe the easiest way of finding TDC; Before removing belt!, is find TDC crank mark on flywheel, check for tdc at injection pump, check cam tdc(#1cyl). now you can lock pump with pin.
there are multiple tdc(s). four in each stroke; here we're interested in the combustion/compression stroke, and TDC, im wording it 'mechanical TDC', as cylinder #1 TDC is what we're shooting for. mark on flywheel gives you cyl#1 TDC, both cam lobes pointing 'up' on #1 is cam tdc, and pump locking with pin is injection pump 'tdc'apx. the 'up' (better described in earlier posts) of the camshaft lobes shows you your coming off compression stroke to injection(and combustion)(combustion is increasing/at end on compression cycle/stroke).
if the belt happens to be removed(for whatever reason) I believe the best way to get to TDC is to remove camshaft(Correctly), with cam removed find crank/flywheel tdc and pump tdc. you should consult Bentley for proper way to go from here, I'd just install cam at #1tdc and be fine, but the manual may include more, and the proper way to remove/install camshaft.
the TDC marks I have seen are all stock, and all my marks are on(not including wear). if your marks don't line up correctly I cannt help, but with 1 small timing hole(or the correct pump hole for pin) and lock pump with pin, and go from there. this is for standard/stock TDC marks.
This topic is 3.5 yrs old....
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