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General Information => Upgrades (non engine related ) => Topic started by: Rising on November 12, 2012, 08:01:42 pm
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Does anyone upgrade the motor mounts on these diesels? Or will that just rattle my teeth out? My rear motor mount just broke and I need to replace it so I thought I might use the opportunity. Any recommendations? Or just new ones?
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the only upgraded mounts will make it worse. get oem. only you could change out you k frame for a vr6 from an mk3 and change the bracket on your engine. thay may or may not rwduce vibration though.
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Don't buy
FEBI FEQ!! They are junk and will rattle your teeth out.
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the only upgraded mounts will make it worse. get oem. only you could change out you k frame for a vr6 from an mk3 and change the bracket on your engine. thay may or may not rwduce vibration though.
Would the vr6 kframe have a significant impact on anything or just an option? I think ill probably just go oem.
Don't buy FEBI!! They are junk and will rattle your teeth out.
Noted! I certainly don't want anything getting worse. Though my rattles aren't too bad.
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The prothane inserts are probably overkill, pretty big increase in nvh. I think next time I'll fill the mounts with some low durometer urethane myself and try that out. Is your front mount shimmed?
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You don't have a k-frame so don't worry about swapping that out.
I take back my FEBI comment, that's not who I used. I used FEQ
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The prothane inserts are probably overkill, pretty big increase in nvh. I think next time I'll fill the mounts with some low durometer urethane myself and try that out. Is your front mount shimmed?
Uhmmm....
Nope?
Haha
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People make little plates and there are myriad diy options but the idea is to get the little cup that the front/snub mount sits in to be closer to the engine or snug on the mount thus reducing the slop and tightening things up a bit.
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People make little plates and there are myriad diy options but the idea is to get the little cup that the front/snub mount sits in to be closer to the engine or snug on the mount thus reducing the slop and tightening things up a bit.
essentially preloading all the mounts in the engine bay. i feel like that would cause premature wear on the rear mounts
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People make little plates and there are myriad diy options but the idea is to get the little cup that the front/snub mount sits in to be closer to the engine or snug on the mount thus reducing the slop and tightening things up a bit.
essentially preloading all the mounts in the engine bay. i feel like that would cause premature wear on the rear mounts
You're probably correct in your assumption but I think it's worth it. The front and rear are inexpensive and easy to change out and I hate slop in my driveline. I'm generally a big fan of poly and solid motor and transmission mounts on most vehicles.
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People make little plates and there are myriad diy options but the idea is to get the little cup that the front/snub mount sits in to be closer to the engine or snug on the mount thus reducing the slop and tightening things up a bit.
essentially preloading all the mounts in the engine bay. i feel like that would cause premature wear on the rear mounts
You're probably correct in your assumption but I think it's worth it. The front and rear are inexpensive and easy to change out and I hate slop in my driveline. I'm generally a big fan of poly and solid motor and transmission mounts on most vehicles.
every tried the non hydraulic mounts in the idi's? im not concerned with comfort in my vehicle so much as i am with it rattling itself apart, its already pretty buzzy in the cabin and im amazed the plaic pieces have lasted this long.
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People make little plates and there are myriad diy options but the idea is to get the little cup that the front/snub mount sits in to be closer to the engine or snug on the mount thus reducing the slop and tightening things up a bit.
essentially preloading all the mounts in the engine bay. i feel like that would cause premature wear on the rear mounts
You're probably correct in your assumption but I think it's worth it. The front and rear are inexpensive and easy to change out and I hate slop in my driveline. I'm generally a big fan of poly and solid motor and transmission mounts on most vehicles.
every tried the non hydraulic mounts in the idi's? im not concerned with comfort in my vehicle so much as i am with it rattling itself apart, its already pretty buzzy in the cabin and im amazed the plaic pieces have lasted this long.
you problems will be worse.
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stock mounts it is!
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People make little plates and there are myriad diy options but the idea is to get the little cup that the front/snub mount sits in to be closer to the engine or snug on the mount thus reducing the slop and tightening things up a bit.
essentially preloading all the mounts in the engine bay. i feel like that would cause premature wear on the rear mounts
You're probably correct in your assumption but I think it's worth it. The front and rear are inexpensive and easy to change out and I hate slop in my driveline. I'm generally a big fan of poly and solid motor and transmission mounts on most vehicles.
every tried the non hydraulic mounts in the idi's? im not concerned with comfort in my vehicle so much as i am with it rattling itself apart, its already pretty buzzy in the cabin and im amazed the plaic pieces have lasted this long.
The OP and I are both driving mkI so I don't have any experience with hydraulic mounts.
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Don't try inserts. They just make it harsh. I have FEBI mounts on sides and rear, and some no-name mount on the front. It shakes a bit, but it doesn't feel like the car is coming apart.
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I got 45K out of the last FEQ mounts on a 1.6NA. Wasn't in love with them but they were still functioning and not totally shot when I left the truck. They were dirt cheap and made in China. Tectonics Tuning sells HD rubber that might actually be sorta correct diesel mounts. Maybe. Not cheap. Least for the A1 chassis.
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Okay well I just got my new motor mount in the mail. But when i went out to install it I just found that my cv seems to be destroyed as well. I'm guessing somehow the stress of a completely disconnected rear motor mount destroyed it. I'll have to take it off to see the real damage but i can tell it's screwed up from here. ::) I'm just going to keep replacing parts on this car till i have a brand new rabbit.
Anyway. I think I remember someone saying not to buy cheap replacement axles as that was bad news. However are there any other options? CV's seem to be just as expensive as whole half shafts. It's just the inner cv. Could it be rebuilt or replaced more cost effectively without buying some junk axle that will give me problems down the road?
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It's a messy, annoying job, but if the joint isn't worn yes you can buy a boot kit, GKN brand preferably, and do that.
Keep the balls in there respective slots is how it's supposed to go, clean them and the races and look them over real close for
damage. You can get away with a little but much wear and they will not last long even with new grease and boot. The GKN joint is expensive, but
far better than anything else out there. If I have to use a cheap axle I use Empi brand, which are still cheap crap but so far the least worst of the
cheap crap. The really quick way is to shove new grease in and use a quick-boot that goes over the thing without removing it.
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Take a look at the boot on the outer too. Check for cracking on the folds. If it is looking tired, get a whole new/reman axle.
A R&R on a whole new/reman axle takes half the time of fixing one that might be marginal on the other end anyway.
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Check your boots frequently, I find the crap replacement boots last about 3-4 years and I live in a relatively mild climate.
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Yeah I think I'm just going to replace the whole axle. Similarly priced and upon closer inspection I think this one is physically damaged. Ive had a bit of a clunk on take off for awhile. Probably this shaft I'll post a picture after I take it out.
Best price on an empi half shaft? Rock auto has it for like 50
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50's bout good as it gets, the Empi's are alright, I've never worn out a joint in one but mostly because the boots go every 40K or so and I get sick of changing them.
If I was going to buy a new axle for a long term car, it'd be an Empi, and I'd immediately re-boot with GKN/Loebro boots. At least on the outside.
Look at your output flange seals too, they are cheap and not hard to do and trans leaks are annoying.
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Hmm. If I take out the flange seals should I think about doing one of those peloquin fake LSD spring shim kits?
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Look up BrokeVW's site for all the VW trans info you ever wanted, and didn't want. He goes into great detail about revisions and why's and if's.
I think I would if I had the money and time, but that's just me. I actually have a trans so early in my 82 now it does not have any springs at all on the flanges.
I have a pair of NOS 100mm output shaft flanges laying around, but they are not the latest revision that are heat treated more/better I don't believe.
I can't see ever breaking 90's with even a stockish turbo 1.9L, so in my parts bag they sit..
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Great info thanks a ton! Yeah I'm really not sure how this axle broke... I wouldn't think my little n/a would ever have that kind of problem ... I would guess wrong.
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Odds are it was a ***ty aftermarket one or if not it got a lot of dirt in it and was ground into junk.
You can visibly see the difference in good German joints heat treating and the aftermarket ones.
Not to mention as was mentioned all the aftermarket boots are of a limited lifespan.
My 81 got about 150K on the OG boots from new, re-booted cleaned and regreased with GKN and the joints went another 150K
or therebouts it seems like. It was on the order of decades to wear out a set of German joints, IF they are kept cleaned and lubed.
It is a matter of principle that I all but refuse to pay money for aftermaket junk in this case, I'll use old used German one's first, I have
more faith in them. My 82 has 400K on it and what I believe to be original joints that I re-booted cleaned inspected and lubed recently.
Three out of four show a little wear on one ball/race, but I still trust them more than an aftermarket set. I'm stuck with a budget just like anyone else
and didn't have $300+ for four new German joints, so back in they went with new grease and boots. I guess if you don't drive a lot it's less of an issue.
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I don't consider $30/pair+ free shipping expensive for quality.
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I don't consider $30/pair+ free shipping expensive for quality.
Nor do I. If you are talking about GKN boot kits they are around for less than that.
I'm also waiting for the day when I buy one or a joint and see Pc on it.
At that point I may well go buy a Honda.
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Yeah I wish I could get away with rebooting. So you think it would be a better bet to try and find a junkyard axle than put empi axles on?
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Yeah I wish I could get away with rebooting. So you think it would be a better bet to try and find a junkyard axle than put empi axles on?
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It's a nasty PITA to try and find OG axles. The majority have been swapped out in my experience.
GKN joints are stamped as such on them, on the outer part, but it's hard to see in a car.
It's preferable, no doubt. Maybe put up a WTB add on vortex. If your EMPI weren't showing wear I'd
say boot them and go, but if they are and $$$ for new isn't an option, I'd either get filthy looking for good originals
or just buy the $50 junk for the time being and try and squirrel away twenty bucks a month or so till you can order good
new joints.
It's a real shame, I'd pay $200 a pop for a GOOD rebuilt axle easy, but they just don't exist that I can find. I've even talked to R-Axles
or whoever it is that has such a good rep for remaning them in the US, they don't have cores and can't do them any cheaper than
I can just buy new GKN joints myself. Most people are at a level where an inferior product is acceptable to them on these cars, as long as
it's quick and cheap. That's a real shame. I treat my Caddy(s) just like I treat any Mercedes or BMW or Saab or Porsche or whatever I've owned.
My 81 rewarded me with 650K miles before I passed her on and exactly two failures that left me walking, one being a dead battery. My 82 is at 400K and looks to be going the same route.
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This could be an upgrade on mk2's no? http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/56841
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This could be an upgrade on mk2's no? http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/56841
That hydro passenger mount might require a different bracket on the engine.
(If anyone has that bracket, or its part number, I'm interested.)
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From making the mounts myself for a flipped VNT for mk2 I found some things out. IIRC I think the differences are in the cast aluminum piece. The bolt holes are the same in all, but there is one that is about 7/16" longer than the other. FWIW I think you could get it to work no matter what you have, but the one that works I am pretty sure has an A at the end of the 9 digit part number.
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... I found some things out. IIRC I think the differences are in the cast aluminum piece. The bolt holes are the same in all, but there is one that is about 7/16" longer than the other....
Ja, I think Tylernt had an issue with his motor sitting a bit jakey after putting in the pass hydro last year. The 16V bracket may be a bit different.
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I think I read somewhere that the Passat engine sits at a different angle than the Golf/Jettas. I have no idea if it's true or not though.