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31
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by Mohatanous on March 11, 2024, 05:46:06 pm »
Update:

After removing the head, it appears that nothing is broken or bent! I will link a Google Drive link at the bottom of this post with images of my findings.


What I found was a good amount of gunk that was carbon-y crap built up that physically prevented the piston in cylinder 1 from completing a full rotation. After head removal, the bottom end moves freely with no issues. The valves in the head appear to be fine and all still move, so I don't think there was any catastrophic failure of two objects trying to occupy the same space at the same time.


It appears that the head gasket was blown around cylinder 1, was leaking, and then perhaps the car sat for a time and the gunk built up to that point. I'm not sure, but I know that the cooling system is in terrible condition. What it seems to me is that nobody ever used distilled water in the system and the deposits and gunk inside show that. My prediction, and it is only that, is that over time the gunk buildup made the engine run hotter than it should, popped the head gasket, the person parked it, and just left that information out when I bought it. It would definitely explain why they sold it to me for such a low price. What could have also happened is perhaps a heat exchanger in the WVO system leaked some crap into the cooling system and caused the issues. Either way, I don't see any signs of anything that can't be saved, so I'm a bit relieved. The bore on the cylinders are not scored, so that's good.


My plan is to go through this thing while I have it all apart and put it back together properly and with as many upgrades in terms of reliability as I can. I'm not looking to find performance gains and make tons of power or anything, I knew what these engines were capable of when I bought it and I'm not crazy. I know they're pretty bulletproof and reliable as long as they're treated well, and that's what I'd like to do. I plan on completely replacing every part of the cooling system and flushing everything thoroughly. While I have it all apart, what else should I do? I don't know if the injection pump leaks, but I don't know if I should mess with it before seeing if it does or not. I have a friend that is excellent at doing head work, and I plan on having him look at the head, cleaning it up, and making sure it's flowing as best as it can before I go putting it back on. I also have another friend that has a short block in case I need it, so that's great.


I also do plan on trying a WVO system again some day. I have a friend that owns a restaurant that said that I could take some waste oil once a week, and I think that would be pretty neat. I have lots of friends, which is helpful.


I look forward to responses, once again appreciate everything that any contributors have said thus far, and if I am incorrect in my plan or should do things differently, please let me know. Thank you all!


https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ov7h4FqBKjtB_mPMnzr1qOJV4M_LhD9j?usp=sharing
32
IDI Engine / Re: Booster full of brake fluid
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 08, 2024, 09:29:21 pm »
Today was a beautiful sunshiny day to work on the brakes again. 

Yesterday I got off work an hour early so I used that daylight to pull the MC and booster off the truck.  I found that the front seal on the booster was allowing air to sneak in next to the shaft that engages the MC.  So I found a way to seal it up without buying a new front seal.  I am not sure you can even do that.

I applied a vacuum on the booster and it held for a long time and was released when I pushed on the pedal shaft.  OK got that part fixed and I had already gone through a second MC I bought off a guy on CL.  So today I slapped it all back together and tested it out. 

HMM mushy brakes, but I had yet to bleed them so I did that and I have a low pedal but not bad brakes.  When I had the booster apart I tried to turn that little nut on the end and it just would not budge.  So rather than break it off I am just going to live with brakes that are a bit lower to the floor than I would like them to be.  Other than that they will send you rocking forward if you hit them with much force.

So, now to do something else with it.  We are in for another 5 days of rain so I will have plenty of time to think about what I want to do next.
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by RabbitJockey on March 08, 2024, 07:38:37 am »
34
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 07, 2024, 10:58:51 pm »
Owning a VW is always a continuing adventure.  Keep us apprised and don't forget pictures.  We love pics.
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by fatmobile on March 07, 2024, 10:35:27 pm »
 They do make a rubber oil pan gasket,.. from a gasser 2.0 block maybe 93-99.
  valve cover gasket from the same engine too.

 Yep, you tried everything else I can think of. Might be time to pull the head.
 It'll be interesting to find out what's going on.
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by Mohatanous on March 07, 2024, 08:20:58 pm »
Update:

Pulling the pan yielded no results other than finding a very dirty oil pan, which appears to have been leaking quite a bit. My next step is to pull the head and see what's going on. Maybe it swallowed a valve that I can't see or something else going on in the cylinders that I can't see. I may end up doing a rebuild of it at this point, it would help me really learn about the motor and I think it could be an adventure.

To be continued!
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 04, 2024, 09:19:38 pm »
Less of a problem to check the bottom side than to pull the head.  Loose crank caps perhaps. 

Odd that you didn't suck anything out of the cylinders but then maybe the mice didn't get very far with their chewing and stashing work. 

I'd pull the pan. 
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by fatmobile on March 03, 2024, 10:01:30 pm »
  Ahhh too bad some stuff didn't fly out and then it turns.

 No, I have had several friends who got burned by parts place.
 Try fcp euro or maybe autohaus AZ.
 Rock auto is a good place.

 Did you figure out what cylinder is stopping the piston?

 I wonder if the flywheel was put on wrong.
 Been a long time since I heard of someone changing the clutch and screwing that up.
 While the injectors are out see if you can confirm the TDC mark on the flywheel is at TDC.
 Maybe feel where the piston is as the valves are opening.
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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by Mohatanous on March 03, 2024, 04:36:22 pm »
Also, when looking up parts for this, is this a reliable site?

https://www.partsplaceinc.com/amfinder/?find=1983-rabbit-1-6-d-153473991&p=2

I typically use Rock Auto for all my other things, but didn't know if this site would be decent for things Rock Auto may not have.
40
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6IDI Not Fully Rotating/Not Starting
« Last post by Mohatanous on March 03, 2024, 04:11:54 pm »
After pulling the intake manifold off I was able to see inside a bit with a camera I have for peeking into small places like that. I was able to see all the intake valves moving freely, and all of the exhaust valves also appear to move freely and without sticking from the top when I turn the camshaft by hand. I was able to see the pistons coming up to the top of their rotations on each cylinder, but it still does not turn a full rotation. Pulling the injectors and glow plugs out and a combination of blowing air with a vacuum on the intake valves has not helped the issue, (I made sure that the intake valve for each cylinder was open while I had the vacuum on it to make sure any small crap may have been sucked out). I did not see any debris in the cylinders from my viewpoints. At this point I suppose my next step would be removing the head, although now I wonder if it could be something in the bottom end?

The saga continues!
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