VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: oblique on June 23, 2023, 07:53:09 am
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Bare 8mm head. Based on part mumber it was a complete unit, probably harvested for parts to repair others. I have some new spring seats if required if you're porting your valves and springs over. 800CDN shipped to CONUS/Canada
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Check your Personal Messages for a short note from me. Thanks.
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Oblique, I am just re-reading this. What part is the 8 mm derived from? I thought all heads were either 11 or 12-mm bolt holes.
Looks like this has made it to Illinois as of this evening. I should have something to do other than painting houses after the 4th to keep me busy.
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I think the 8mm represents the thickness of the valve stems.
Some are 7mm.
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Fatmobile do you know if this head Oblique is sending me is a hydro lifter one? I was not sure but Oblique says it is.
I am wondering if I can install mechanical lifters in that head as it does not come with any at the present time. I have the ones I pulled out of the head that cracked the pre-cups and fractured the head to the valves.
Franken head if you wish to call it that. I may need to get some spacers for the 11 mm bolts to be able to center the head correctly on the block. I may need to get spacers too if the ARP Studs don't work right.
Later
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That's a good question.
I'm not really sure on that.
I don't think I've ever heard of anyone trying to put mechanical lifters in a hydro head.
As far as making sure the head gasket is centered,
I usually set the gasket in place and see how the edges line up.
Then make sure that's where they are sitting when the head is on.
I wonder what could be used for centering the headbolts in the holes to make sure the head is centered.
With the last head, I hylomared one side of the gasket to get it to stick,
while the head would still slide around on the other side until it felt centered.
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How about cutting the head off of some old head bolts and use them to keep the gasket and head where it is supposed to be.
BTDT!! Works great!!
Just a thought...
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Yep, I have a set of those,
with a slot cut in the end so a screwdriver can unscrew them.
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@fatmobile... I did the same with mine!
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I have 11 mm ARP studs and the new head has 12 mm holes. I will just make some sleeve spacers for the four corners and I think that will work just dandy.
Now I have an MLS gasket that will fit this new head but I am wondering if I should continue to use the 1 notch composite gasket I just put on. I don't have much protrusion of the pistons over the head, so the 1 notch gasket works well and will give me the biggest performance for the money.
I like the MLS gasket as it might save me another blown head gasket down the road. I do have a turbo on it, a KO3 so not a lot of boost. But some.
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So it's a hydro block with 11mm bolts?
Most of the metal head gaskets are for the hydro block,..
A hydro gasket on a mechanical block will leak coolant out the front.
You can get a custom metal gasket made for a mechanical block.
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Dale,
I didn't realize you were putting this head on an 11mm mechanical block...i really don't know about mating that combination. My concern would be the oil drain for the lifters...are the channels common to the lifters and cam?
In terms of centering it, i guess you dont have the little studs poking up out of the back of your block?
And then using mech lifters...i suppose if you are blocking the 2nd oil drain to mate with your mechanicsl voocks the oil from the cam should be enough..
I am assuming the lower cylinder head body is same for hydraulic and mechanical...the longer valves make up for shallower mechanical lifters?
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I may finally get time to look at what I can and can't do with what I have currently. I will snap some pics tomorrow and show you guys what is aligning and what is not. I believe I have an MLS gasket for a hydro head. It didn't work on the mechanical one and the holes appear to align on the head Oblique sent to me.
Been putting paint on the church hall. Exterior, up to 18 gallons, and that does not include any for the trims and doors. Lots of spray and roller work. I have throbbing shoulder blades and my arms are like noodles. Pushing that power roller up above your head for hours at a time is not for the weenies in the crowd.
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Ok, got some pics for show and tell.
This is the head with the MLS gasket in place
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e6uy5ly5u458jn7y70qt1/IMG_20230709_140927890-1.jpg?rlkey=mrpgwqjej4okgt4qqzlyt1u5r&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e6uy5ly5u458jn7y70qt1/IMG_20230709_140927890-1.jpg?rlkey=mrpgwqjej4okgt4qqzlyt1u5r&dl=0)
The holes line up just right for the two oil return openings. Oil squirters will return oil to the top of the head and valve stem seals will keep it from getting into the cylinders. I just need to get some more of them. I thought I had a package of them but I think I put them on the old Rabbit just before selling it.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6vh1rzxb5wcbrdrxu7urq/IMG_20230709_140932872-1.jpg?rlkey=03q9adhd2q2lujwfk0a08ussw&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6vh1rzxb5wcbrdrxu7urq/IMG_20230709_140932872-1.jpg?rlkey=03q9adhd2q2lujwfk0a08ussw&dl=0)
The top view of the head is where you can see no place for that oil to go. So I need to block this off somehow. Weld or JBWeld?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/giazd3l9wxajkte0ko1ch/IMG_20230709_141818887-1.jpg?rlkey=jeasm43ui5mflg7z4m11h4taq&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/giazd3l9wxajkte0ko1ch/IMG_20230709_141818887-1.jpg?rlkey=jeasm43ui5mflg7z4m11h4taq&dl=0)
That second drain hole for the oil would go into the coolant if I used the MLS gasket.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/of4637gpmh0ud2isb3w7s/IMG_20230709_141849767-1.jpg?rlkey=lfwa6twbxtk7l9lpyb6ic3tlb&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/of4637gpmh0ud2isb3w7s/IMG_20230709_141849767-1.jpg?rlkey=lfwa6twbxtk7l9lpyb6ic3tlb&dl=0)
If I use my current 2-hole composite gasket there is a very slight hole that will line up on the head meant for coolant to get into that second oil hole so I need to figure out how to stop that from happening.
Should I just plug that hole with something and use the older gasket? That is what I think is needed here.
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IIRC Lucas used a piece of sheet viton cut to size for a AAZ MLS head gasket with the 2nd oil return. Can't remember if he was using a 1.9l head on a 1.6l mechanical block but he might have been. It is in a write-up somewhere, maybe his build narrative, but that must have been 10 or more years ago.
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Thanks, I might take the head down the street to a machine shop and see what they will charge to weld the hole shut. That way no leaks are possible. I will keep you all informed as I finish this. I couldn't find my extra valve stem seals and camshaft seal so I am waiting on a Rock Auto order at the beginning of next week.
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Hope things are going well with the engine. You have probably seen this already, and Parts Place seems to have done you wrong here already but they advertise a plug that might work for you?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113968096226?hash=item1a890723e2:g:ObUAAOSwmENdzZgc&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4CW2VdGFYlZeY%2BNG1SjIQCnidwEBqHm5u0fE8wmnIVeiVsOqKEk21ckF%2BgdsZaXOqY1fhfhacIh7NuaYCUeCjX%2B9Vfg7pQqFFZdHzRlelXAcMYboFspSYHC%2FZMVrFcFpUnIURW26R%2Fqepmbq12BCR5wPGGrGxE5PAb%2FouMtLgraaYZu9g9jSoRS4mbeFuqut4puPNGfR2sLk9beSP%2Fk9KinORkPKBAq6bRJx3Bopdmz4k7vJlBh2GVpTqyVOE8tuwN8KyRBwtW3p3D%2F3%2FFFj11ZUppjXsZQHLRnEIciEyuEP%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4qEnMmxYg
Crazy long link there, sorry about that.
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I think I can buy a lot of JB Weld for 40 bucks. I think I will use that as a reference price for having it welded shut. I had to buy new shims to get the valve clearances right and I am waiting on them right now. I have little time these days to do anything for myself. I may need to re-evaluate that if I want to do my own things.
Tough to be a handyman with a good rep I guess.
Thanks for the link just the same, I sort of remember that being available but then sometimes my memory fails me and the delusions take over.