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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Diesel Swaps => Topic started by: Patrick on July 01, 2018, 08:35:02 pm
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Bought an adaptor kit from KEP to hook the engine to the transmission. Everything is apart right now. Should start putting the car back together this week. Next big hurdle is a front engine mount. For those not familiar with the Porsche 914 it uses a 901 transmission same as a bus, flipped so that the engine is ahead of the back axle. Longitudinal engine. Existing engine is pretty much a type four bus engine, boxer 4 air cooled. Mounts on a crossbar from side to side of the car with 2 rubber mounts in the middle. Gong to re use the cast cross bar.
Anyone have much experience with a front mount for a longitudinal engine? First thought is to use a mark 2 jetta mount on the back side of the engine, but wondering if there's strong enough bolt holes on the front of the block to work from there instead. also contemplating using the big holes cast in the block at the front of the engine beside the oil pan... Going to think about it overnight. Should have the engine bolted to the transmission tomorrow.
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Pics on another board... Build thread here.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=331391&st=0#entry2625903
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Anyone got an easy way to hook a 4 cyl gas tach to a W terminal ? I know I've seen something in here somewhere....
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You have to rewire the tach to accept the signal from the W terminal
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Found a built adaptor. Dakota Digital. Rewiring the existing Porsche tach is over my head. for 69 bucks problem solved.
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Next problem.... Somewhere in the past I saw a reference to a VW part number for a stand alone glow plug relay socket and wiring, not part of the fuse panel. Can't find it. Ringing any bells for anyone? If I remember right it had something to do with vans... maybe South African? I can buckshee something together but a nice socket for the relay would be a better way to go.
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My 1981's, Rabbit and Caddy have the relay mounted on its own socket free and clear of the fuse box. Might try a salvage yard for one like it. I think the 1980's also had it freely wired.
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Thanks, under the hood or under the dash? I've got one older mark 2 parts car here, the others are all new mark 2 or one mark 3. Won't find anything that old in a wrecking yard here, all crushed. that's why I keep a few of my own... that and I'm a pack rat.
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Mine are under the dash. Left side, on the MK1.
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[img]http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=1e1d9c1877e31a46f901e22746a8553a&act=Attach&type=post&id=659741/[img]
Anyone got a suggestion for an air intake? I was hoping to use mark 2 stuff but there's not enough room. maybe a 90 degree pipe turned down with a cone filter?
THAT didn't work. Here's a link.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=91c1e110aaeb85afc561599ecc0d5753&showtopic=331391&st=20
Scroll down to see the engine sitting in the car.
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I only skimmed through your linked thread. I just thought I'd mention that for anything less than 15 psi or so, the T3 is a downgrade from the K14. All you gain is turbo lag.
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Aiming for 20 psi, maybe more if I put a cooler in. I thought the t3 was less restrictive on the exhaust side...
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The T3 is less restrictive on the exhaust side but the K14 doesn't become any significant restriction until you're over ~15 psi. You should add an intercooler before going over ~15 psi anyway just as a matter of course. Above that point, the heat from compressing the intake air becomes a limiting factor. The K03 that was also fitted to the AAZ was much more restrictive than the K14. In the case of the K03, a swap to a T3 will see a benefit in higher rpm power (at the expense of a big increase in lag) even in the 10-15 psi range, but a swap from K14 to T3 won't see that improvement.
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It's on, I'm going to try it. Easy swap to put the K14 back if I don't like it. How's the K24 rate? I have a couple of those on the shelf too.
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K24 is basically the same as the T3.
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That`s what I thought.
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Engine is bolted in, mk2 mount on the back side of the engine, stock transmission mounts on the Porsche 901 trans. Might have to add a 4th mount on the left side of the engine (front? at the power steering pump that I don't need) We'll see after it's fired up. Rad mount is the next issue. Car once had a rad in the front to cool a dodge 360. pipes are still there... going to try to put a smaller rad in the engine bay so I can close the front trunk back up into a sealed dry compartment. Currently has the front of the car swiss cheesed and a big hole in a fender well to let the air flow back out.
Do pictures have to be posted elsewhere and then linked??
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Yes, I believe images need to be hosted elsewhere. I've been using Imgur lately since the photobucket debacle.
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Honda civic rad in the engine compartment. Not sure if it will be enough. Should be according to the adaptor kit company but natural airflow won't be great. Probably have to run the fan a lot more than the same engine in the jetta. Lower mk2 rad hose is a direct fit, had to cut and paste on the upper. Custom part for the heater hose outlet on the back of the head, going to direct connect without a heater core for now. Progress is slow when you have a day job!
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You might consider an mTDI. The higher thermal efficiency of the direct injection dumps way less heat into the coolant (~1/2) for the same power.
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Down the road.... but for now using what I have.
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I can understand using what you have. I just mentioned it to keep in mind if you have issues with radiator sizing. The TDI can use a much smaller radiator due to the drastically reduced heat load on the cooling system.
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Next issue: fuel return line on the 914 tank has been messed with.... If I hook as is I'll have the fuel returning to the bottom of the tank. I assume it should be dumping at the top?? or is it an issue?
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I don't see it as an issue, as long as it returns that is all I would worry about.
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Close enough I had it fired up today... didn't run long enough to suck fuel from the tank through the whole system. Quit for today. Tomorrow put the wheels back on and sit the back end on the ground, fill the tank to the top. Gravity should push fuel as far as the filter if I take the bleed screw out the way everything sits. Should be an easy fire after that... We'll see.
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I swap a spare IN bolt and banjo onto the pump OUT bolt location and then pull a vacuum on it. It pulls fuel from the tank, primes the filter, and primes the pump completely. Easy peasy. I then have the metal lines tight at the pump but loose at the injectors and crank the engine over until there are some spurts of diesel at a injectors. Tighten them down and it will fire right off and run well if everything else was done correctly.
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I agree with Libby, Pull fuel through the system then try it with loosened injector nuts. If fuel shows, even on just a couple then tighten them all and try to start it.
I think your trouble was there is only so much fuel in the pump and it generally is not enough to prime a line from the tank especially if the filter has some air in it.
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IT'S ALIVE!!
https://youtu.be/6BwvBVNTJbQ
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Nice coal, turn down the fuel screw a tad. Don't want to draw unnecessary attention to what might be a non standard power plant in there.
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Don't remember the coal being quite so bad with this engine in the Jetta. fuel going down, and maybe the smaller turbo back on too. maybe a little slow to spool.
Non standard engine isn't really an issue... car is old enough that emissions isn't a problem here. And as for the insurance company, it's still a four cylinder....
VW Oil pressure switch in the back of the head running the porsche idiot light works fine. Did have an oil leak and figured out the sensor wasn't screwed in tight enough... had it out to screw a gauge in and do a pressure check.. Early VW water outlet for head with a screw in sensor hooked to the Porsche temp gauge seems to work fine. Ran it for 20 minutes or so and it got to about 165 according to my infrared temp gun, showed just over 1/2 on gauge. Next step is garage cleanup, put the trunk lid back on, back it outside for a bath, and take it for a drive. Then to the muffler shop. Probably leave it straight through for now, may wind up with a muffler though. This engine seems louder than the other one I'm running, partly because the timing is advanced a little more on this one I think.
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Lost all that extra fuel and them some.... guessing that either the pressure line from the manifold to the fuel pump got plugged or the plunger in the top of the pump is stuck. Maybe tore the diaphragm? have to do some investigation....
Exhaust has been routed to the back of the car. 2 1/2" straight pipe... Was too loud straight up behind the window but I think I can live with it without a muffler out the back. Found someone to make me a new throttle cable too but going to try to hold off until it's parked for the winter.
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http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20960-1537049135.jpg (http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20960-1537049135.jpg)
Taken at the autocross today.... going back to the smaller turbo I think. Spools too slow.
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Throttle cable done and installed, Dakota Digital adaptor was easy to hook up and set so that the alternator now runs the factory VDO tach. A couple oil leaks to fix before the last autocross of the season next weekend. Happy with the swap!
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Tach quit on me... :( Have done some testing and sent questions to Dakota digital. ???