VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: as4k on September 27, 2023, 09:43:41 pm
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Long time Audi/VW owner but new to diesels. I found this site and have been combing through a lot of topics. Seems like a great place to learn!
Wanted to share an interesting project that is applicable here but is an Audi.
Back in 2010 an Audi 4000 showed up at a show in Pennsylvania. It was on a dolly and parked with our club. I knew the guy who brought it and the car he had was really interesting. It was a 1981 Audi 4000 turbo diesel 5spd. I had never seen one of these as Audi didnt make or bring many of the td models here, and if so, most were automatics. You see more 4000 diesels than these things. So a lot of us poked around and I took some photos (which become important later), then that was it. The reason the car was on a dolly was due to a hole in the block but I was never told why.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHez9vfESEhgb5UNfirgY5hhqmD2wNSm381w8KSHBd3J59ZD_kOLlRFI1lgMmLa_IkVb_utIOHoUlNOCsVjJ9WHY-4D61nHlLqiM98Wrt32X2jewr7Iq72EU0B8g2Y1l2D7ZyFtlDAI6ieDPAnojAF7C=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcfxzQDAO4M1yP-EA2AmVKa5MSnHshUCeCtgRwIeDBKLpJlC3TDcBa9ewPl4_KF_d4YNua4HoaiBSEq36NAD1geL4UeRnwcCrAMv7gKSVeW--6ssaZOkxpGR_DXL-47R-jIszLWCExupIt-AR1n7khF=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
So years go by. One of my car friends in Georgia ended up with the car and was going to resurrect it. He sourced a nice proper CY engine code block and had the original head rebuilt. He also sent the injection pump to Giles for a rebuild. The car sat for years inside but not a whole lot of progress was made. Fast forward to summer of 2022. My friend asks if I would be interested in it. I say of course and have it shipped from GA to IN. Upon receipt of the car, the longblock was in the engine bay but everything else (nuts bolts, brackets, etc) were in crates in the car. So this was going to be fun.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdO3o2lvpVTSCCoRTEDHAr_89NeV3AIBEimv2heaQIvqWHFRNStuRSo0KUjxMOBiQLkmZ2jVU6z0GK8M9faJK0SzcTkfUEMK6DTgKFUsg2DiZp6-RexmLjcenpi9PShwKP9MeBe63nryNzg6kQGBC1S=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfzMkGLeGBTuMneX3MMx-LxBo3wC879_uh5yURh5a3vNzn_tISRBlF-ch_zso8FUxv3DjZo1HnlBbM96kVmyU_bVO5OpbRyrKTuSXWr4VIjFFfBeA4glKjm5qNEMw4QvZuyNap3mLhuvaa5sR9MJ8gQ=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
A few things about this particular car. Its Helios Blue, has power windows, no sunroof, and has dual radiators (which was an option). There was also a hand written story from the previous owner on the car but that appears to have gone missing. I've been told this was a demo car for Audi/VW but I also believe it was some sort of emissions test car based upon the odd EGR set up AND the factory stamps in the maintenance book, along with it doing some 6000 miles in a month.
Work started on the car immediately but I'll jump ahead and leave the better stuff for later. Since GA didnt require titles for cars before 1985 it made getting one for this car a bit challenging. A court order later I was able to title, register, and plate this thing. Interesting fact is that since GA never required a title the original NJ title is still around. Neat relic to have along with some paperwork from when it was bought from the auction after VW/Audi got rid of it.
Needless to say this thing was going to be a project. I'm more of a 5cyl Audi guy but have owned 3 other 4cyl gas models. The only other diesel I have owned (and still do) is a 2012 dieselgate Jetta. Thankfully a good friend in our local car club is a VW guy and has an awesome VW caddy diesel truck, so he has been helpful over the course of a year.
I unpacked the car and tried to sort through everything. Some parts diagrams were tough to find or not available. A few of the EGR parts are nowhere to be found in any parts catalog. Pretty much 90% of everything was there, but a lot of stuff needed cleaned or just plain replaced. Thankfully the engine itself and injection pump had zero miles on them, albeit sat around for a while (pump had all the caps on the open ports).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfoyRiVDHY3hqNTGYGZRrFE8XCdDqzCFAikhp3M2dTMUEabbEnVSsSsbYmuUBaRe1mThdRDD0bqKTz6HvPZ5Sk9seEhstDCdMKbhTh1z79PnaB9spY9QCsny5gheHuleky6udFlVaQX-TbWU9sizzqE=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfI5OWGZEn4zlzhAzkI1OX-UD58MRBthVmvpyMNNR04wZqYYd_zAKlhCgqp9hn3hWKddaERu4EQEVv_te8g0QAuO5lkSw7OoCfbAlurIMqMSK0dQgGdPFpzHk-kqj3ucKRGWbPcnogWB2ss4CQF3A-A=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfHwmc9y3LTPRkfemMatQfgYZjRvTwJdhcYtsVTG0ooOqVWDifMM0n_TeuUZ_vEdOmEaF4YzXd4sG-QBPUSZOuMDm964OefYH17dxWCRxqG0MbOfwmz4HBfyq_BUeI6L9Gc7e_mbbr9vlENf1Tah_pL=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
Lots of cleaning and scrubbing, also seeing where things fit.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeWqpa7A2--tfjVVNvPOTpoYcLBJEDYtZ3fV9KHKD3M8YTCRzin6G9X9TGY0ttzsNHseVrOJQdappSkpIhwA3SzXjzK8c9hGpjCaj0tYswlIOKf5V51pNlhD4ceo8kxYiJfmaERu5kKc1yHTq9bLAAf=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHedDcnb4C73atpB85L70Rtet0UX8aOfdILqcB_YrlsXp4diX-QqixlB7VG7ugKqc1n-aCgS3mJYC-iMaR3gxUIas50HKD13ZcZvtc2V-wisUOl-BEhZfbblGjCEtDa5r5L3bBRa8xpBCqNzoztuSCdA=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
Time goes by and so many parts are ordered, installed, rinse wash repeat. Got everything in terms of gauges, lights, all power windows, and locks working. My goal was to get the car ready for the show in PA where I first saw the car, but that was May and it wasnt looking good. I actually had the car running by then but the main radiator needed fixed (that unfortunately took ALL summer).
So fast forward to a month or so ago. The car starts ok, gets up to temp great, so I wanted to see if it moved and stopped. I replaced the front calipers, pads, and rotors. Rear drums were cleaned but the shoes and wheel cylinders were perfect. A brake bleed and everything seemed good.
I had an issue after I got the car on the street. The clutch pedal engaged VERY high, which made the car undrivable. Add to that the brake pedal was hard. Car would stop but it took effort. This is where I'm at. I ordered a seal kit for the vacuum pump and will install that tomorrow. The clutch is another story. I didnt realize there is a measurement for the release level in relation to the clutch cable bracket. There is zero free play in the pedal so I need to get the cable off and adjust that lever, then start over.
I'm dying to drive this thing. Its got such an interesting story. I reached out to Audi and every damn contact I have but cannot find production/sales numbers for 1981 models only. I've heard of 1982 and 1983 turbo diesel models but never an 81. With a 1/81 build date AND the factory build sticker in the trunk it all checks out.
Appreciate you guys taking time to read this. Here are more random photos. I've got a youtube channel (Mike's Virtual Garage) and IG (mikesvirtualgarage) for lots of Audi content, and even a video on this thing. Looking forward to learning here!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHd_SasIQJxPDroVCw39g1LDOKZL_MGWyRiIzvOWn5021Q4sA4XNBlYuJVfpyRdY4gG7WV2ZU7IdWLbPRIBXUQS1UET4Sh1ziVpFXpZ5gAlHr5kXqdZFOnLdOsUWh4-Ecwd-DSZ-Kk_5_I-WCn1GvXur=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcvFPaEot9tuoYwC2zFxZxm9aW-4vLHuCgUIuB1c4-lec_fbGCAub0vTx1-eJHkjR0HVfjzXVSy04H9mKh--tWxcS_R8aqKB102yo2Y9eJCRT0mh4qpCptiEchfu5CgrTpXGWEJxixpUGI73SDcDaV5=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHecDgV7Lgpw06VLoqabYCqyUJNNB5Mp462TgsJHd3LpEKVMudVs8DQ4AZ6qef_yDRI-7ztqVAWWmNo-CURHx85z5Tl96XuMfCwmH6HNj2axULaFeUjaxt3ACLCaVlBT_VDECd_amtZHsaRzF83F29Jf=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeY1LXjvDlT_lN9yulbs_RunTnipi4ZlP-yWKEGhV6Gi7xZElW4BLADD3uZfVsxNngLP6Mh6c3J0_DvgMPYWIFAdZyElalRnj309o4cI0BGEFoTke7WgJTnErMDJcGn7QJz4tx1amjUlS2VR1rws5La=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHeUMUryuhtpNbDh51jgg4fjHzK3LV_U4cGbcYSuQ0eeqyvF4OSJjTQEuL20g5awy8LExDi3YB269_M5_i1yJR1hlKer1VrwhiZ8XOt-uj_NV0vu5inKwz4vRWpEDwhQ5nma34uygv8546CU3zynVG7-=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfU8tg2Iqexc16KFFLJkzGX5xB2XfPqjf5D2Qfp86K9vDn6G8baiQYN5J45nMGH8CQviardvxz0tOzMZ9CO28OF_QKo3fb5KzfbKKnBQw-d0V2SVIEa1cCvLhSzsHVXASoXnu3VvSWQn5smYJ__yV-J=w888-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfa_4Vo0EFxW19sZKZnZ1iki2TuPyq9Yhv3HadSz7fdZnVISladkjKhaejKIFMe3C5HRS0YQ3nKmZMlvvrnKchefY8_56fRxY04XAQbg8Zzi-qy5bWNuTvYc9jvZtK313NtgkjorVaPBv3qv6aYI-1s=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHdRlEIHPHMOqQy_WEUAbeVRl7oiNedmRN-t8m7SZo0SGfFU7gyqcZG0cTO442RECSkWgITMJXWcQ0ryjGyfHt80_Dw7IsxwrZZYV0s-wyb5SAlZHfXOQ-U7PCzkFXe5cRFOTf-zNkkkRds1n-W46DpS=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHf4Z3AMn6GxYqHPpF-YizHuBd__eExHxkrCXFds0-Glw2Go59zmd0woeQKRiKpMIsD1FkBcbOUVPrtx0liRovIEtFhLFAcXYalSzu-9KWvFwOM4w9yvqYBCeCAo-yTx9yQItzPZiqqmRmNSM6A_4_vh=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfXvQw5M5P3XzyFu86yQdD3y2aAcMhCcD8bwdpeILPQMrX_WzU79QUvOe0ctCBCazVHXLrdqC654PseQyaZGxXYaWjos9mBVE_AjP0AunLM93Cp1n6OtwqvlFgqf1IesJMByuJZcp7FleuVwWlrF2Vn=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfNIp04w7FpGR96DoOUVbqMlWHiaQCHpGuqZr69coVxo7NE6bPGRajMnPrmNcmhWXQZ7CJxvFpFYtJOLkPFYqid1wQMGlxH6tE4xCMRA-9IMqTPmbMCUyTHgVxa0ZXK0rnTk7F3KoMtUzC7ZiAvJBjI=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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81 is the earliest VAG car with a TD I believe...
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81 is the earliest VAG car with a TD I believe...
Oh hey Dennis. Nice seeing a familiar name. Come on down to Fort Wayne sometime to hang!!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHceZZJAbSXqHxdrZ769hyWVDr3l949M7Pzc1VvroFcqSch3CtAFZnHT3quQJ2iiCS-OKscGZJ2oABfRWUIoEjIVuHx7a8Nq06fYenmZjuJ6rgO8N8ThrwC4QdJaJdJd63Rut__WbPk7b7FqWkTqWLqk=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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Will do. Nice to see faces I personally know.
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Great story,
Thanks for sharing with a great write up and pics..
Hope to see more!
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very interesting car.
especially because it's an 81, the turbo diesel engine wasnt released until 1983
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Small update here. I acquired a new vacuum pump, installed that, and think it solves the hard brake pedal issue. I took a lot of time to get the clutch cable adjusted. The Bentley has a measurement for where the release lever should be in relation to the bracket the cable slides into. That didnt seem too accurate after getting that set. Having never adjusted one of these it took some time but I think its where it should be. A quick test just in the garage nets a much better engagement point. I have not moved the car out of the garage to test the brakes and clutch yet though.
Work will pretty much halt for now. We are working on moving, which is a good thing (A LOT more garage space!). So I'll likely get back to this once the car is moved to its new location.
For now, does anyone have any info on the EGR stuff on this car? There is a bracket that has a rod and a few vac ports that bolts to the injection pump bracket and sits right behind the PS reservoir (pic below). I cannot find anything on this in parts diagrams. With this being such an oddball car, who knows. I didnt add this back since I wasnt going to use any of the EGR stuff. I can pull the part out and look for part numbers.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcfxzQDAO4M1yP-EA2AmVKa5MSnHshUCeCtgRwIeDBKLpJlC3TDcBa9ewPl4_KF_d4YNua4HoaiBSEq36NAD1geL4UeRnwcCrAMv7gKSVeW--6ssaZOkxpGR_DXL-47R-jIszLWCExupIt-AR1n7khF=w1185-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
I think the car just needs run/driven. Sometimes it starts and immediately stalls. Once started it seems to surge (idle goes up and down quickly). I did adjust the idle and this helped but maybe it needs raised a bit more? There are a few gallons of fuel in the tank and I have a few more to add and was going to add some Seafoam to maybe clear anything out once I can actually get it moving.
Thankfully, at this point, the engine gets up to temp fine with no coolant or oil leaks. I'm really excited to drive it and see how it does. The actual future of this thing is unknown though. May hold onto it and drive it to the PA show and be open to selling.
Appreciate this forum. Been going through a lot of older topics and threads to learn about these!
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Keep us updated please!!
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These old forums are full of great info.
Sometimes that can kill a forum because after doing a search, there are no questions to ask.
That thing stuck to the injection pump might be part of a cruise control.
Even though that's not what they look like on a MK2 Jetta.
Looks like your fuel line used to be clear.
Since there are no computers or spark, fuel supply is important.
Nice to be able to easily look at it and see that it is moving and not full of air.
Most of the time, for me, surging is caused by the injection pump or bracket bolts not being tightened down.
That's not usually at idle though.
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These old forums are full of great info.
Sometimes that can kill a forum because after doing a search, there are no questions to ask.
That thing stuck to the injection pump might be part of a cruise control.
Even though that's not what they look like on a MK2 Jetta.
Looks like your fuel line used to be clear.
Since there are no computers or spark, fuel supply is important.
Nice to be able to easily look at it and see that it is moving and not full of air.
Most of the time, for me, surging is caused by the injection pump or bracket bolts not being tightened down.
That's not usually at idle though.
Yeah, I'm a huge forum supporter. I get that there are other means/groups nowadays, but forums have SO much information that needs to be saved and utilized.
The cruise control for the car is the bellows just to the right of the injection pump. Its the same as other Audi's I'm use to, so that was easy to find its home for.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHfNIp04w7FpGR96DoOUVbqMlWHiaQCHpGuqZr69coVxo7NE6bPGRajMnPrmNcmhWXQZ7CJxvFpFYtJOLkPFYqid1wQMGlxH6tE4xCMRA-9IMqTPmbMCUyTHgVxa0ZXK0rnTk7F3KoMtUzC7ZiAvJBjI=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
Once I get the car running again I'll see if I can get some video about whats going on.
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The new fuel line shows air in the fuel.
But air near the filter when it's been sitting can be normal.
Air in the line just before the filter, when it's been sitting, is absolutely normal.
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The new fuel line shows air in the fuel.
But air near the filter when it's been sitting can be normal.
Air in the line just before the filter, when it's been sitting, is absolutely normal.
I'll get some updated photos/video. That photo was from May, right before I took the main radiator out for service.
Appreciate the responses! :)
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So, I'll be moving in about a month and this means all the garage contents and cars will be as well. I dont think I'll get to ensuring the car can drive, shift, and stop as it should before we move, so I'll have it flatbedded to its new home. Before then I do plan on taking a video for you guys about what this does when I start it up. In the meantime, this car has no tach, and no 4cyl Audi diesels back then could come equipped with one (at least here in the states). How would I check the idle speed? I've seen some older Audi/VW videos with actual dealership diag equipment, but of course I dont have that. Any insight here would be helpful. Also, one thing I found out early on is in relation to the crank bolt. The short block in the car was sourced and rebuilt due to the original having a hole in it. I didnt think much of the crank bolt until I put the pulleys on the front. The crank bolt is not accessible for rotating the engine. This doesnt seem correct. Does this look odd to anyone else? I'll check the PN for the crank bolt but wanted to gain insight here as well.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86wAl9SZHoPelLR4N7YGkAyMlFTVSlgEGiSohDxnB4gnreV10bDGtplNyyHR8JOyhD6bpszLXzVBjzFlco8MX-TIg0hl2ynmwBxSsCBDqjriQsluV-FYV5TfdUmxOFFsjPjcYPOnwyCFGX5UD9hphjv=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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For a cheap tach, you can get a Tiny Tach. They have a clamping pickup that goes on the fuel line and uses that as the signal. You wire it up to 12 volts inside the car and you can check that idle fairly precisely. I had one on my Rabbit and had it stuck to the dash with double-sided tape. It was better than nothing.
Nowadays I have a tach where the clock used to be on the gauge cluster. I used the conversion thread on this site to make a gasser tach into a diesel one that uses the alternator wire for a signal. Looks very VW stock. I have converted plenty of others since and the hardest part is getting the GTI tach as they were not very plentiful. I recently discussed with a guy on Craigslist that wanted 650, yep Six hundred and Fifty dollars for one. I passed on that. I had just purchased two MK1 clusters the week before for 25 each.
https://tinytach.com/tinytach
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There is also the laser tachs.
Stick a shiney piece to something rotating, and point a laser tool at it.
The MK2 TD tachs fit some of the busses.
Maybe it will bolt onto the back of the audi cluster.
Or maybe one could be swapped from a gasser Audi of the same year, and adjust the circuit like we do with the GTI cluster in the MK1.
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Thanks guys! The tiny tach is something I had never heard of and sounds pretty interesting. This will be a good option if I cant figure out something with a factory Audi tach. Will keep you all posted!
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What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?
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What size is the crank bolt? The older engines 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm bolt, the newer 12mm head bike engines have a 19mm 12pt bolt, maybe you have totally the wrong bolt, or your pulley is for older engine?
Well, I got this project with the engine in pieces, basically. Looking back at photos from when I got it, the crank bolt was sinched on there so I assumed it was correct from when the bottom end was rebuilt. I am def not one to assume though! I have the PN for the correct crank bolt and washer. The CY has some specific pulleys and it appears all of those on the engine now are correct. I have had a few friends send photos of various engines with this code, so those have helped.
I've never been an artist, but this car has been like painting without a brush, to put it lightly :D
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i dont think there is a washer, only the older engines had that, perhaps you have an older crank in a cy block?
did you have the crank sprocket off? was it a woodruff key or the angular notch key? the 11mm engines had a woodruff key, newer engines had the angular notch, and then with the tdi they went a flat spot on the crank.
this should be the right crank bolt:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-screw-genuine-vw-n90577101
and this is what the cy crank sprocket should look like:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166362673113?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rIbV4gbGTBa&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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I'll ask Casey to see if there were any specifics that he remembers. From what I know its a proper CY block but I figured that was an Audi only engine code? EDIT - I did find out that the block came from a Jetta TD, so not an Audi like I originally thought.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85YjUjfZ0_uEVoQCB6SnlwCUAgPTUoLGUvtQG7DilscMTqvZ384qPsfYfcdPEVoGvkI8Siy6YbYs3SAhi6tRuHCBM7BsxJCGTBuCPYC1p9FsNB8iWYsygh_i7cGW09q_bzKd6Tw-kp9lNWs0pe4vy-E=w666-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
If you zoom in you can see what was on there when I got the car. Looks like a standard hex head bolt with a large washer.
I use 7zap all too often for stuff. This shows what options there are depending on code and such.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/ (https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/)
Lots of good information here. I appreciate everyone chiming in on this stuff because there could be things on the car that may be incorrect and I just dont know it. I never did take the crank sprocket off to check if it was a woodruff key.
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i think cy could be in an audi or vw.
I am not 100% sure on the bolt, but from what i have seen 11mm headbolt engines had a 17mm 6pt crank bolt with washer, 12mm/81 and later engines had a 19mm which i believe is 12pt but maybe that is only the later engines like aaz/ahu.
maybe someone more experience can chime in. I dont think it's anything to be concerned with, the later crank sprockets are stronger/more reliable but i wouldn't be worried either way so long as everything is torqued to spec.
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I think I was more concerned that if I needed to crank the engine by hand, I really couldnt from down there unless I took off the crank pulley sandwich.
Of course, this is just one of a handful of things I'll investigate and fix when the car is moved.
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You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.
That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.
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You should be able to get to the crank bolt with the pulleys on.
That chain looks big enough to lift the engine, ha.
The photo I had didnt originally work so I'm reposting it. LOL, yeah, the chain was a bit overkill but its what my friend had :D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86wAl9SZHoPelLR4N7YGkAyMlFTVSlgEGiSohDxnB4gnreV10bDGtplNyyHR8JOyhD6bpszLXzVBjzFlco8MX-TIg0hl2ynmwBxSsCBDqjriQsluV-FYV5TfdUmxOFFsjPjcYPOnwyCFGX5UD9hphjv=w1180-h889-s-no?authuser=0)
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I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench. I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.
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I think you need to replace that bolt with something that is longer and has a head on it that you can turn by hand with a wrench. I have an 81 with a 17mm head on it.
Agreed. I'll snag the correct bolt based on the parts catalog. Just figured it was correct from when I acquired everything.
Appreciate the continued help here!! :)
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i am curious what you'll get a replacement. I think the pulley is probably the problem, like it is intended for an older 17mm crank but this is a later engine, it is an 81 which was the cross over year for 11mm/12mm head bolts.
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yeah man, what is going on with that pully?
I've never seen a pully that covered the bolt like that.
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Maybe it is from an Audi and not a VW part at all. Might look into that angle and see what comes up. With all the tweaking I do on my VW I find it hard to work on it if I couldn't turn the crank manually. I mean how do you even time that thing?
Oh, by ear of course. Sounds good let it go. Hey in cold weather I have to crank on it so long my battery dies. OH, that is good to hear. Maybe measure the timing next time.
Rant and Rant some more
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I usually turn the crank, to set the timing,
by putting it in 5th and rolling it.
Grab the driver's side wheel and turn it.
That way I can look in the timing hole and line up the marks.
I usually rotate the engine by putting a socket on it to get close first.
But I can't see the timing marks from that end.
Gotta turn the crank a couple times after a new belt to see how it tracks and make sure nothing is hitting.
So yeah, that would kinda piss me off if I couldn't put a socket on that bolt.
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7zap has been pretty good in terms of part numbers.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/ (https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+4000/a40/1982-3/1/105-4000/)
There is a specific bolt and washer for the CY engine listed and I have no clue if thats whats in the car now. I doubt it. There are a few specific pulley pieces based upon the engine code and if it has power steering (mine does). Oddly enough there is a different water pump pulley listed (on a different diagram), which I believe I do have.
This thing is wild. I'm thankful to have a vw diesel guy here that helps with that sort of stuff, but since this is such an odd car its been fun.
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i do pretty much the same thing as fatmobile except i let it on the ground, and just push the car back or pull it forward to set the crank position.
on the tach, if you can find a the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a dakota digital converter.
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I think with the engine being longitudinal helps me a bit. Whenever I mess with timing on the 5cyl cars its very easy since the flywheel is easy to see while still moving the crank a bit from the front. I always joke with my VW friends about how the older Audi engines are in the engine bay the "right" way :)
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on the tach, if you can find the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a Dakota digital converter.
But Why? and that isn't stock, so I don't like to do that. I prefer the long way around and convert the tach to use the alt wire which makes it difficult to do. That is just me.
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Been a minute so I'll provide a small update.
We are now moved into our new house. Both of my Audi's were actually the first things moved over, so that was nice. The 4ktd was towed and I drove my other one. We now have just a bit over 2 acres of land, a much larger attached garage, and room/plans to build a separate out building, so TONS of room for activities.
For the first time under my ownership and likely many years, the 4ktd sits outside, and doesnt look too shabby out there. i hopped in the car last week after charging the battery in hopes to see if it would start and run. A few cranks and a bit of help from the go pedal and it came to life. I still have the odd surging idle, but it may just be the idle still needs adjusted up some. Runs great though.
I made a few notes the last time the car ran. Fuel leak from injector #4 where the rubber cap sits over the last port on top of the injector. I cant tell if the actual nipple there is a bit tweaked or the cap just needs a small zip tie. Either way I have another injector to toss in. I need to tighten the turbo oil feed line a bit. The clutch pedal wasnt returning all the way (but it is now), and the brake pedal is still hard. So this means the vacuum pump may not have fixed the hard brake pedal issue. I said screw it and ordered a new master and brake booster. I hope to get this stuff replaced yet this month. The only other oddity was that after letting the car run until the main cooling fan came on, I shut it down, then immediately tried to restart. I got a very slow crank and no start. I suspect the battery, which isnt 2 years old (but had a 2020 date on it) is toast. I've done enough charging and jumping with it :)
I do owe you guys some updated photos and a video of it starting/running. I also did acquire the correct crank bolt, so I'll take time to replace that. I was really hoping to take this thing to Carlisle (which is this week) but moving sidelined ALL car related activities.
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Sounds like you have a nice setup.
Check to see if the alternator is putting out.
Cuz it probably should have charged the battery enough while running.
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Sounds like you have a nice setup.
Check to see if the alternator is putting out.
Cuz it probably should have charged the battery enough while running.
And as usual I forget some useful information :D. I'll check again for sure. The volt meter inside the car showed like it had good voltage but I'll check it at the battery. Alternator is fairly new, not that it matters.
Yes, the more space is outstanding. I was doing rear brakes on my other Audi a few days ago and was in the driveway. I had so much space and nobody around to watch me! Def enjoying this so far and cannot wait to get the garage all sorted so we can fit some cars in there :)
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Maybe just check the battery terminals and the ground to the frame. If the Alt is putting out the right amount of power then maybe it just isn't getting in to be stored as it should.
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Maybe just check the battery terminals and the ground to the frame. If the Alt is putting out the right amount of power then maybe it just isn't getting in to be stored as it should.
Ah, interesting thought. So, where should the engine to body grounds be? Honestly the only ground I can think of is the battery negative to the transmission bolt. Since I got this car with pretty much nothing assembled I didnt even think about additional grounds.
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carlisle, are you near central pa?
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carlisle, are you near central pa?
I am not but our club goes to the Import show in early May there every year, so I make the trek from Indiana out there. Will be there with my other Audi later this week/weekend! Its where the car in question first graced us with its presence :D
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One way to check grounds is to crank on the starter for a while then feel the cable ends.
Bad cable connections get warm/hot.
That ground to the trany is always suspect.
Running electricity through a bolt that goes into aluminum. Galvanic corrosion.
I like using the MK3 battery cables and running the engine ground right to the top starter mounting bolt.
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The negative terminal on my truck has a split cable. One goes to the frame rail and the other goes to the transmission. Not sure if this is stock but it does help to have them on all parts of the individual big metal pieces.
Maybe a visit to the parts store is in order for you.
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Thanks guys. I'll check this soon. Def appreciate the help and comments!!