VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: wolf_walker on May 27, 2014, 06:47:54 pm
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Whole lot of cleanup as much as anything else. Sealed the block up, sealed the trans up, new clutch(again, and not sachs).
Spherical rod ends and Teflon bushings for the shift linkage, and a weighted rod.
1Y intake, new downpipe for the dual outlet mani is in the works. That cast iron elbow is silly.
A1 TD intake box, moved the fuel filter to the only place left that isn't below the pump level.
Some poly stuff, k-bar and upper brace, sway bar.
Made the stupid AC belt adjustable like a grown-up bracket.
Lot of re-wiring because I'm picky.
New hoses and water pump and such all-around.
Lots of paint. Cheapass-protip, industrial black spraypaint after baking
in a toaster oven really is more durable than regular rattlecan stuff.
Found a factory oil cooler water hose that fits the tallblock off some TDI.
Bunch of other little things. It really is the little things.
That take forever.
Like that new coolant hardpipe. I can't imagine how long it took
installing, removing, heating, bending, cooling, installing, marking, removing,
heating, bending, installing, etc, etc, etc, to get it to fit right.
Then I had to paint, and heat cure, the sections that the finish was mucked up on.
Nothing on the outside of the motor is stock, and it all kinda-fits since it's a VW, but
none of it really falls in place. And the hardware. The wire brushing the hardware.
I hate dirty motors. I chose not to bust the AC system open this time so the compressor
isn't very clean, but I don't have to touch it too often.
But it's starting to look reasonably orderly and correct.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/nwd45c.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2pq3mnp.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/spc6r9.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/apbfdc.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/v7haf8.jpg)
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........................, moved the fuel filter to the only place left that isn't below the pump level.
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Why? From an ease of bleeding air out standpoint, the fuel filter output port should be lower than the IP inlet banjo.
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I think opposite, air goes up, to filter, out the bleed screw on the filter housing.
Never seen VW put a filter below the inj pump, I try and mimic what the factory did when
it's possible unless there is a good reason not to. I've never had any trouble with air from the filter to the
pump but it's possible I guess. Plus I don't have to get on the ground to change the filter. :)
Factory TD A1's had the filter on the raintray about there anyway, so hey.
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Air bubble rises. You want a path for the air in the fuel to have a constant rise, not a rise, then a drop, then a rise to the IP, which forms a trap for air.
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I would of set you up with a complete silicone hose kit for a steal
There is a total of seven, not counting the two from firewall to heater core..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1631999
I like when people say , I dont care what color and I send them gloss green
GB
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Air bubble rises. You want a path for the air in the fuel to have a constant rise, not a rise, then a drop, then a rise to the IP, which forms a trap for air.
That could make sense to, so why did VW not mount them low? At best they were level with the pump,
and the TD's as I mentioned had them above on the raintray, there is a good spot below the battery for one,
but they chose not to for some reason. It's slightly above the IP on most of the newer TDI's I've seen as well.
I think they are down low on the Cummins VE pump Dodge trucks, but they also have a lift pump, so.. Who knows.
Like I said, when I'm not 100% sure on something, I follow the manufacturers lead.
Then I can blame them if it don't work right. :) I'm not an engineer but my observation skills are pretty decent.
I've actually never had an air leak in the feed circuit, I suspect it don't matter much
in practice as long as one has their *** together. They give you that clear hose to
show it up pretty quick if it does. If it acts funky I'll post something about it.
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I would of set you up with a complete silicone hose kit for a steal
There is a total of seven, not counting the two from firewall to heater core..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1631999
I like when people say , I dont care what color and I send them gloss green
GB
If I'm still driving this thing when the rubber wears out I think I might just shoot myself and be done with it.
I appreciate that offer though. ;D
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I would of set you up with a complete silicone hose kit for a steal
There is a total of seven, not counting the two from firewall to heater core..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1631999
I like when people say , I dont care what color and I send them gloss green
GB
Tell me more about your kit. Why is silicone better than what I have already. I have an 81 NA Caddy as well as a 92 Eco.
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I would of set you up with a complete silicone hose kit for a steal
There is a total of seven, not counting the two from firewall to heater core..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1631999
I like when people say , I dont care what color and I send them gloss green
GB
Tell me more about your kit. Why is silicone better than what I have already. I have an 81 NA Caddy as well as a 92 Eco.
Because he says it is.
GB repeatedly promotes his stuff directly to where it's needed:- Smack in the middle of a thread.
No need to bother with a Vendors section any more.
I guess if it's OK with the moderators, er Omni-Mod, then it must be fine.
I have some plastic bottle honing devices, I wish to shift, totally colour changeable with addition of veggie dye ;D
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I never found the "bleeder" that helpful.
When the filter is off the car, the bleeder is too small to be useful for filling the filter.
When the filter is inline, the bleeder can only let air in, as fuel tries to flow back to the tank.
Maybe I'm missing a trick. :-\
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I would of set you up with a complete silicone hose kit for a steal
There is a total of seven, not counting the two from firewall to heater core..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1631999
I like when people say , I dont care what color and I send them gloss green
GB
Tell me more about your kit. Why is silicone better than what I have already. I have an 81 NA Caddy as well as a 92 Eco.
Because he says it is.
GB repeatedly promotes his stuff directly to where it's needed:- Smack in the middle of a thread.
No need to bother with a Vendors section any more.
I guess if it's OK with the moderators, er Omni-Mod, then it must be fine.
I have some plastic bottle honing devices, I wish to shift, totally colour changeable with addition of veggie dye ;D
Have a nice 60 day vacation. Personal attacks on members and moderators are not tolerated. You show ignorance when you make assumptions. I have had more than a few people say that they have tried contacting Red Rotors to be set up as a vendor with no response...I was one of them years ago. If Red Rotors doesn't want to set someone up that is his business, but things still need to be offered to people. I find it nice when someone like GB offers hoses at a discount to other members on here. It should be no skin off your back if he does. So the personal attack is un needed. Furthermore, it would be ridiculous for him to link to the FS section when the parts in question are being discussed in a thread. Please come back and be helpful, add to the forum, or be gone forever, as you haven't contributed much of any merit since your last ban.
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Iam here to support the forum, I will make anything for one off's to a nla item
85 % of my work is aircraft hoses, ducting and valve cover gaskets..
Everybody is helpful here and I will always offer custom colors to members and special discounts
Just finished a set of gloss green for a Dolka model
GB
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I think it's awesome that the man took the time to not only make but offer his stuff in a thread like this, one of the benefits of a small community
is not having to be quite so rigid. I for one appreciate it even if I'm not buying it, someone else might be.
Tyler, me neither really. Honestly I just suck on the feed line to the pump till there is fuel after filling the pump from the topmost port and
things work themselves out. When I change filters I run it for a min, fill the new filter with fuel, put it on and fire it up. Never had a problem.
Wonder if VW had a fitting to screw in that hole to pull vacuum on it to prime? Mercedes had a primer pump near the motor.
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I welded a bracket to the rh rear frame to mount the fuel filter ( just a little more room now )
As the fuel line comes out of the tank, it feeds to the filter
Another MK1 caddy
GB
Need anything give me a gingle..
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Overkill is consistently more fun. And in this case cheaper. (yay amazon)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/f55ead.jpg)
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Followup on the "bleeder" on the filter mount (or on top of the mk2 filters)...
My acute deductive talents (AKA reading the manual) indicate the port is to be opened when draining water from bottom the filter.
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Followup on the "bleeder" on the filter mount (or on top of the mk2 filters)...
My acute deductive talents (AKA reading the manual) indicate the port is to be opened when draining water from bottom the filter.
There's a manual? lol
I actually have one from my 81 somewhere. I've never had any water come out of that drain, I just replace the filter a time
or two a year which is probably overkill. I ended up plugging the hole with a bolt to get the clearance I wanted to the heater lines after lowering the
mount to clear the strut tower brace. Which I may not be able to use anyway depending on how plumbing the airbox to the
intake goes. Hardpipe with couplings ain't happening, ordered some SCAT ducting form aircraftspruce to see if it'll
cram in there.
I am so sick of this tiny ass engine bay.
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(http://i57.tinypic.com/2v2dt1t.jpg) think I solved the intake pipe problem.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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So the SCAT ducting fit, barely.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WZGzC9qaYfU/U5-oJnnJHEI/AAAAAAAAceY/pTMK-fZxDu0/w961-h721-no/2014-06-16)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d0aVlDxEExk/U5_4PzTIbZI/AAAAAAAAcgo/Fxz24JkbxKw/w961-h721-no/20140616_192838.jpg)
Spherical rod ends are awesome for shift linkage. Have teflon bushings form Roger and a weighted shift rod as well.
And I sprung for one of those mushmiester dealys form USRT, mostly because I'd been drinking and was browsing parts.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_p9Tu2-JCig/U6OYSgA6LQI/AAAAAAAAcic/o0stn0WeSVM/w961-h721-no/2014-06-19)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MMZUIn4NEDw/U5RafA601-I/AAAAAAAAcT0/ylbApPmxPaI/w406-h721-no/20140607_200526.jpg)
This is going to become a less crappy downpipe than stock at some point..
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZtB0Frwtpps/U5-qp3gmfOI/AAAAAAAAceo/JbJae0eiLXM/w541-h721-no/2014-06-16)
And I gave up and orderd a 2" Techtonics exhaust.
While I didn't bother doing a lot of math that should be more than sufficient for the intake and exhaust.
Need to fill fluids, finish the exhaust, finally put the rear SS brake lines on and bleed system, and I think that'll be about it.
Till whatever needs tweaking presents itself.
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(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RAX0VtXkBpA/U6duS5gl4hI/AAAAAAAAcn8/SQF8rTfWO2c/w965-h724-no/2014-06-22)
Figured what the hell, drivers side is clean, might as well fix this one.
Still, sigh.
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"Spherical rod ends are awesome for shift linkage. Have teflon bushings form Roger and a weighted shift rod as well.
And I sprung for one of those mushmiester dealys form USRT, mostly because I'd been drinking and was browsing parts."
Was there a problem with shifting with the stock setup? Re the colorful intake hose, will it stand up to engine environment long term? You wouldn't want to have a leak develop/ suck dirty air and not know it's happening.
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http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ShiftLinkage.shtml
same as this setup I would imagine. Seems like the stock linkages wears very quickly, at least here in ohio they do. Upgrading to rod ends or similar make it basically a non wear item. All you have to do is grease it every year and all is like the day you installed it.
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Yeah, I've got Rogers teflon bushings. The stock stuff when brand new and carefully adjusted is "ok" at best.
Figured I'd try something different. There is for sure less play and more precision/adjustability in the linkage.
Plus it should last for ages. One of the biggest problems with NA diesels is to utilize what little power they have,
you need to be able to shift quickly. I've had a bunch of these cars and replaced all the same parts, run different
trans, good fluid, etc, etc, even the best setups it takes 2 or 3x the time to shift as most cars and not be abusing the thing with
brute force which I'm not willing to do. I hope this setup will add enough precision that I can cut some time down
between gears. I extended the shift arm a bit to lower the for/aft throw some too, and it has a weighted shift rod.
I may well discover once the linkage is performing better that the trans is just tired, most of them are, but at least
then I'll know and not be left wondering. I thought hard about an 02A swap but it just wasn't worth it for what I do.
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Was there a problem with shifting with the stock setup? Re the colorful intake hose, will it stand up to engine environment long term? You wouldn't want to have a leak develop/ suck dirty air and not know it's happening.
Oh, and http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php)
I might wrap the abrasion prone areas in really good duct tape, but it'll probly be ok.
It was the only solution to using that intake, a strut bar, and a stock airbox, I had envisioned a hardpipe
between the two couplers but that wasn't happening.
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Less-crappy and non-$300 downpipe is happening slowly.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AXFgc3Vwwm8/U7TC5sMy7mI/AAAAAAAAc24/5tFVl0PhpdM/w635-h847-no/20140702_194121.jpg)
And some non-30yo-rubber rear brake lines. Nothing says professional like ziptied brakelines btw. Also pictured: TT 2" exhaust which exceeded my
expectations for $198 shipped.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b6WSTuZyD18/U7TCkKJYO3I/AAAAAAAAc2E/6C0q6YX5LMQ/w1129-h847-no/20140702_193955.jpg)
And I found a place making the clear fuel line, so I got the factory turbo length one to better fit the top mounted fuel filter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9DzZ4tRrGA4/U7TCeqbT7XI/AAAAAAAAc14/RfeqyOzAug4/w1129-h847-no/20140702_193931.jpg)
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Was there a problem with shifting with the stock setup? Re the colorful intake hose, will it stand up to engine environment long term? You wouldn't want to have a leak develop/ suck dirty air and not know it's happening.
Oh, and http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php)
I might wrap the abrasion prone areas in really good duct tape, but it'll probly be ok.
It was the only solution to using that intake, a strut bar, and a stock airbox, I had envisioned a hardpipe
between the two couplers but that wasn't happening.
Looks similar in construction to the hoses the Porta-John trucks use. lol Spec temperature wise seems ok.
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I hope for the sake of all mankind the p-jon stuff is heavier. I'd trust this with air but not.. Other stuff.. lol
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What is th od of the two intakes, looks like a 1.6 mkii td airbox
you should be installing over not inside the intakes
I make that stuff also
http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-HeatDuct.html
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65mm OD intake, 70od airbox I believe they were. The SCAT tubing is affixed and sealed inside the silicone couplers.
It's plenty for a NA motor to breathe through I think.
There wasn't anything else I could find that would contort squish and twist where it must and still fit those
two size openings.
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Understand
I have to make a 180 turn, then a to a 60 degree to the mkii td airbox
using this exhaust manifold and turbo
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/tubular-top-mounted-manifold-for-1-9-tdi-with-gtb-turbocharger.html
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/garrett-gtb2260vk-gtb2056vk-and-gtb1756vk-turbocharger-with-vacuum-conversion.html
The only option is to run a lh side airbox, I already moved the battery under the bed
I do like this airfilter assy as its best of both worlds
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390515779701?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1427.l2649#ht_2545wt_983
GB
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I saw you posted that airbox earlier, very slick. I used the one I did since it was handy, had to cut the bottom out
a lot to get it down as low as it is. I really wanted a factory filter though, so hey.
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-txn_E8T-OGs/U7mfzmJcZPI/AAAAAAAAc-M/mZNr-PWxBBU/w566-h755-no/2014-07-06)
Came out decent for what little I have in it. Got to flow better than that stock BS.
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(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8GFTkJ43J0k/U8RgcyFhdZI/AAAAAAAAdIM/HrGYYt76Qp4/w1033-h775-no/20140714_155634.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y4BP3N03ZT4/U8VoStPI4UI/AAAAAAAAdK4/Eu0cy8YcDDc/w581-h775-no/2014-07-15)
I love spray-on bedliner. So much.
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Soo.. this is still going on. And escalated a bit.
The pass side rust is done, as is a bit of relatively minor in the rockers, and some below the rear window,
and all the seamsealer has been removed with a dental pick, re-sealed, primed and topcoated in a
very narrow band of black. It's a little ratty looking from under five or six feet but otherwise is decent.
I elected not to reproduce the double wall setup VW had on the inner fender, we seam welded in the repair panels
after cutting out all the rust, and bonded the outer layer up top to that steal and sealed it, so I think it's
plenty solid. Have I mentioned I hate unibody cars?
The TT 2" exhaust is on, and didn't fit for crap in the rear but it's fixed now.
The DP we built seems to fit well enough, not running so we'll see.
The shift linkage is hooked up, all the play is gone, every bit, except what is actually
in the transmission which is a fair bit, but it's still a lot better than anything one could do with stock
plastic and it should last basically forever.
Got the front sway bar and Scirocco K-bar fitted.
Both fenders ended up off, no rust at all on the drivers side, I poked
and scraped off a few places since I didn't believe it but it's clean.
Both sides are undercoated and primered and painted etc, etc and waiting on fenders.
The fenders, have managed to rust under the top reinforcing plate, so I bought a spot weld
drillbit and will remove and deal with that. There is also some trailing edge rust to fix.
I still think it's better than dealing with aftermarket fenders, and they will still be mostly
the right color.
Ordered a cheap, and I do mean cheap in all senses of the word, euro plastic front bumper from
ECS. I think I'm getting too old to not have a front bumper at all.
Eastwood supplied a number of cavity penetrating rust preventative goo's that was used
liberally everywhere I could get the 3" flex tube into. Fair bit of additional undercoating as well.
The rockers were ugly paint but solid, they are now primed, painted and bedliner'd like the tailgate.
Came out pretty well.
Found one of my wiper pivots was shot, ordered a set of NOS ones from Canada and rebuilt the
wiper trans with them.
Found an Italian or some such speedo cable on ebay awhile back rather than the cheap
crappy replacement everyone sells lately, hopefully it's quiet.
Found a door hinge welded on crooked, and a number of other less than impressive things
related to build quality as I removed paint and sealer from body joints. You can tell it wasn't
built in Germany to say the least.
Got a new carpet that fit so-so at best, cleaned up the interior and treated the weatherstripping, sunroof,
etc, this evening since it's been sitting for over a year. Still looks nice. Seats in tomorrow and
then on to the fenders, I've been putting them off since I'm sick of paint and body work that I'm not
very good at.
Been a LOT of other little things, more than I can remember, but it's getting there.
And after all this it STILL needs to have the doors off and cleaned up, and the front and rear
glass out. My Wife forbade me to do them till it was on the ground and running again, which might have been
wise.
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See how you do with the flex joint there. I just had my downpipe rebuilt last week to move it from there further forward. Don't really know what else you could do with that setup though other than doing dual flex joints.
The problem I had was the whole exhaust was getting vibrated around too much and engine movements was really throwing it around. It'll get pushed downwards when you accelerate, in my case it was hitting the crossmember.
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Looking good!
Question: Do you have problems with mice droppings under the heater box?
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Two years later, she rides. Fired it up yesterday, test drove today.
Installing fenders sucks almost as much as removing them.
I see why VW gobbed so much sealer in there, it's the only want to cover up
how lazy they fit. I'm not body man and they aren't perfectly aligned, but
I really don't think they are much worse than they were to start with, and that
was factory. Anyway, they are back on and sealed up.
Surprisingly uneventful mechanically.
Two minor coolant leaks.
No apparent oil leaks after two heat/cool cycles.
Motor mount adjustment seems good. TT HD mounts are pleasant.
Shift linkage works, it's full of TT and delrin and weights and whatever else I could throw at it.
It's still a VW, but it shifts really, really well so far.
Nary a rattle or complaint from the exhaust, I was worried about the TT stuff as I had to cut the thing
to make it fit and make a new hanger in the rear, not even a rattle though.
The intake is a little noisy, time will tell if it drones or is too loud to live with.
Need further driving for much suspension testing.
Brakes are tight with SS lines front and rear, finally.
I added the oil/coolant heat exchanger and it seems to be aiding
in oil temp warm up just like I expected, with the previous external oil cooler, even
on a t-stat, it took forever for the oil to get up to temp.
The late style crankcase vent stuff is working, I guess.
Had some electrical oddness, but mostly problems I created.
I put in an LED tied to the output of the cooling fan relay, and a
switch tied to the trigger pin of the relay since I occasionally want to
manually kick it on. All that stuff works, and the fan cycles as it should,
odd part is when you turn the AC on (and the cooling fan kicks on), then turn
AC off, the cooling fan stays on until the blower fan is turned off.
Also, though I'm not sure how it'd be related, my freon has leaked low
enough that the AC isn't working. Weird.
Electro-oddity #2 is my i-can't-leave-well-enough-alone glowplug circuit,
basically a really high quality external (ford starter style) relay with separate fuses/lines
to each glow plug and big direct power from battery, relay is triggered by the stock
GP relay. I also added an LED on the GP power side of the external relay so I can see
when they are really on. Works, but when kicking off it flickers, I can hear the stock
relay chattering for a second or so before letting go. I can run wires and such but I'm
no engineer, I wonder if not having a load on the stock GP relay is somehow screwing
with it, or if the VW relay is just crapping out maybe. I don't like it chattering though, or
the external one. Really do not want to go to a manual setup, it's 2015...
Other than that she seems to have come through her sabbatical pretty well. Needs a wax job
bigtime, and I'm still dicking around with a cheap aftermarket euro front bumper I bought.
(http://s26.postimg.org/4yvnmrbx5/IMG_20151125_165101.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/5bn1sxu6t/full/)
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I was reading back through this, can't believe how long this one drug on.
Couple follow-ups.
The high mounted fuel filter with the Mercedes pre-filter works perfect, I primed the pump
(with two year old fuel) using my mityvac on the return fitting like always and it fired right up
with no drama after sitting for so long and being torn down to the longblock. Good ole motor.
The shift linkage is, in a word, awesome. (expletive) awesome in fact.
It's not perfect, it's still a VW, but holy crap is it so much better.
I'll never touch that plastic BS again, money well spent.
The airbox is noisy, like NA blurb blurb at idle and resonance at some speeds noisy.
It's not crazy bad, but it's bad enough I'd like to make it better. I'm pondering an
enclosed airbox of some sort to go in place of the cut up A2 TD Jetta one I have on there.
The exhaust is great, the enlarged DP, well braced and with good mounts isn't hitting the swaybar, no rattle, nothing.
The TT stuff is good once I finally got it in a happy place, it's all just surprisingly fine. I fully expected to have to jerk
around adjusting it but no problems so far.
The Koni STR.T struts are worlds better than the cheap Boge/Sachs stuff I've been running.
I suspect they are still soft for "performance" use but for a stockish height street Rabbit/Caddy I'm totally sold.
The only thing left that rattles is the steering column, again. Still.
I've got bearings and junk for it if I ever get the nerve up to pull it out.
Again.
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Good for you. Let me know if you get that steering wheel quiet. I have been chasing that erattle on bumps ever since I did the struts.
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Not holding my breath on a quiet column, least not with a diesel.