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General Information => General => Topic started by: jack's lack on July 21, 2009, 06:23:06 pm
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I'm falling deeper into the rabbit hole with this thing; pardon the pun. Many of you have been very helpful even instrumental at this point so I figured I would start a longer build like thread to get into the specifics.
So here is the patient. The 1982 rabbit 4 door listed in my sig
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/b5f34f0d4235e7f5d73ab19dc1e6cc51.jpg)
And the AAZ as it arrived
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/04dbe6c3a912d404d66816a45e912243.jpg)
And the other side
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/d66173bcfe71da9557662d1fab2aa162.jpg)
Here is the K14 off of the engine. It turns freely and there is almost no play in the shaft, so that is good news
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/222705755599e3165fa69f2e8f13be73.jpg)
I yanked the alternator and got it tested and sadly it is no good. What's worse is that I, like a fool, installed the TDI clutched pulley on it so now I have to buy a $20 tool to get it off not to mention a new alternator
I drilled a hole in the exhaust manifold where the stud for the downpipe bolt was. I'm having techtonics make me a new 2.5" exhaust so I won't need that mount. Getting the stud out was one of the worst bolts I have faced, only slightly easier than the rear stub axles. PB blast, torch, channelocks repeat ad nauseum. The drilling went super fast though. I went with the aircraft spruce thermocouple that is so highly recommended on this forum. It is 1/8" NPT so the hole I drilled was 21/64"
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/4d328298193868495836e48ac64b29bb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/ac35f77d05b318dee87f01ab1f2e4a38.jpg)
Then I tapped it with the 1/8" NPT tap. I had never tapped a hole before, and it was more fun than I anticipated. Here it is with the thermocouple installed. I torqued the fitting to 33ft/lbs as it felt good and snug, should I take it further or have I over-stressed it already?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/f51006b7a5a1d6c4b261cb49f36046dc.jpg)
The next thing I got on was installing the gauges. If you want to run it up to the red, you have to know where the red is right? The install plan was to locate the gauges below the heater controls above the ashtray where the pointless little cubby was. I bought a plastic single din 3 gauge pod but it did not fit, so I moved to plan B. I have always thought the wood grain dash was a hallmark of the westy rabbit, but personally I felt the plastic was a little ghetto. I had always had visions of making a proper wood dash for this thing but keeping it westmoreland style. So here is what I did
first I measured the existing dash and drew a CAD file of it (i'll email you the file if you want it) then I grabbed a piece of 1/4" MDF and hit the laser cutter
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/6d4bafe7c53cb500cee86e91d455f94e.jpg)
The finished pieces
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/d596c0d77f8fa0aa375267feeb4fc819.jpg)
After a notable amount of gluing and sanding I got a decent test fit
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/327dea89e0c9e67088498d14be215175.jpg)
So I moved on to veneering it. I used two types of wood. The dark is called Zircote, it is a type of rosewood and the figuring is so dark it is nearly black. The light wood is quilted maple I really enjoy the effect.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/bf545e9892a9b51d85edfeed4021418d.jpg)
Here it is 4 coats of polyurethane later and in the car
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/2234a91fac3e7f485236677530ff135b.jpg)
And a close up of the gauges. I went with Isspro, and I am very pleased with the quality they have the minimal cockpit feel but don't have the VDO cheapness I had hoped to avoid.
I went with boost, and pyrometer (EGT) of course, and I did oil temp for the third one. it is 90+ degrees here for a fair amount of the year and I would rather not BBQ my engine or my turbo. I snagged a air to oil cooler out of a Volvo at the pick'n'pull so I think I am going to run it in addition to the stock oil to water cooler. Is this redundant or a good idea?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/a2be00d6c4621ab5654339712474a0f1.jpg)
I have ditched the EGR and I am going to get to work on the blank offs. Holy isht what a mess it made of the intake. I have cleaned it, but I think I might try to find a PD150 intake anyway
I have pulled the IP and I am going to get the injectors of tomorrow. I have PM'd Giles and hopefully they will be headed his way soon. I am going to pull the head soon and order the ARP studs. I want to have it rebuilt and P&P'd. I think I am going to pay to have this done, as I am not confident enough to do it myself. I have scored a crank and pulleys of of a 1Z TDI and I am going to swap it in to preclude the keyway catastrophe. and I am debating rebuilding the bottom end while I'm at it. At the least I will take some measurements and get some opinions from you guys first.
Im not there yet but I plan on running a FMIC, but I am weary about causing too much lag. what diameter piping do people use on these things? it seems like there is a ideal size that would not cause a restriction, but would not create an excessive volume to fill either. Is this sound logic? has anyone done the math on this?
there will be much more to come,
Thanks again to Jerry (sycronicity) for hooking me up with the lump
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Sorry about the pics before. I had to change photo hosting websites. Seems to be working fine now though
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Nice project! Did you change the grille on it? We had a '81 when I learned to drive, I seem to remember the facelifted grille on it. You very rarely every see a Rabbit around here any more... and the ones that are left are invariably diesels.
I always wanted to do a 2-door with the Cabriolet body kit on it.
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don't think that getting the 1Z crank & pulley will completely solve the problem... my 1Z crank sprocket was a little bit loose, and it has to fit on tight, so it had to be welded up and filed down a bit.
i really like what you've done with the wood!! this thing is really going to fly with that torquey 1.9 & K14 ;D
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Wow, this is looking good, I'll be watching! I normally hate wood-grain dashes but that looks really good.
I'd toss the factory oil cooler and just run the Volvo unit. The factory ones are sometimes called "oil warmers" since they exchange heat from oil to coolant or vice versa. Not always a good thing. The Volvo one is thermostatically controlled and will do a much better job. I actually really need one but of course can't find one anywhere for less than $200. :P
Brendan
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sO THE PD150 INTAKE IS THE WAY TO GO ?
GEE-BEE
[email protected]
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sO THE PD150 INTAKE IS THE WAY TO GO ?
GEE-BEE
[email protected]
You know I'm not really sure, but it seems the best option I have found yet. Some guy is selling them on the vortex for a reasonable price, They are available with the neck pointed towards the driver side, which should make intercooler piping easier, and since it flows well enough to satisfy the PD150 I thought it would have to be a substantial improvement over the stock AAZ intake. Honestly I haven't even measured yet to see if it even fits :-[. I do know I don't want to spend $500 on some custom made dual plenum thing and have to bash my firewall into my glovebox to make it fit. More research is definitely in order.
Brendan, that's sound advice on the oil cooler, plus aesthetically I think it would clean up the coolant hoses a bit to loose the "oil warmer". I just have to find a way to mount the volvo cooler and an intercooler In front of/next to my radiator. I'm probably going to have to take a hot exacto to my grill. I guess I should be happy I don't have air conditioning to contend with.
I'm planning on just ditching the power steering. Mine leaks like a sieve anyway so I have never really had it, and I hear it can make the install harder/impossible as the extra pulleys will fight the frame rail on the MKI. can anyone attest to this?
Jerry, I did change the front end a bit, that is the 79-80 style squares. They are my favorite headlight set up on the rabbit. Blasphemy is often cried when I say this apparently the correct answer is single rounds, which I admit look good it is just when the crowd is all running one direction, I feel compelled to head the other way. This is of course the reason for the primer fenders. They are the cheap Italian version and they don't fit very well at all. I hope to find a Cabriolet in a junkyard and grab some OEM fenders. when I first started looking for a rabbit I wanted to find a 2 door and do the cabby clipper kit, it is a good look. My Uncle is a pretty decent diesel wrench and he had a 4 door 82 rabbit when I was a kid, so I blame this whole obsession on him.
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So it has been awhile, a lot has been done, but yet I still feel so far from finished
here is my guest room at the moment. Good thing I'm not married huh ;D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170723/7aa629231942241de6c740b6175bb755.jpg)
I have finished my port and polish job on my intake. it's from a PD150 I'm told. I have a 2.5" EGR delete pipe on it that was pretty easy to match up. I got the pipe from tdiparts and it was a disappointment for the near $100 price. the welds were a bit of a mess and in two places had burned through and were actually creating obstructions in the intake path, but I got it cleaned up and mirror polished in about 2 hours. If I had to do it again, I would get the slightly more spendy diesel geek one that comes with a block off plate for the exhaust manifold as well as a fitting for boost gauge tubing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170723/abb12a00d4043248d26443c04f84a3bb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170723/656d78630e7656a08037190b95c70a62.jpg)
For the boost gauge tubing I used a 1/8NPT fitting located in the top post on the back of the manifold. I had to trim one of the lower posts to clear the compressor housing on the turbo. The other will likely need to be trimmed as well, but I am going to need the downpipe first to see. I ordered a complete 2.5" stainless steel exhaust from techtronics tuning with a borla muffler. This was three weeks ago and I haven't heard anything so I need to call them and light a fire under someone asap.
I am going to need to add another fitting to the intake for the LDA correct? The only tap I currently own is the 1/8NPT is it feasible to use that size fitting for the LDA connection?
I ask because it turns out I had an eco pump and had an empty LDA. The good news is Giles is sorting that out for me, and has confirmed via email that it is on the bench as I type. It's going to set me back a few hundred $, but in the end I'll get my second Giles pump, and this one WILL have the LDA
I made a block off plate for the EGR on the exhaust manifold out of some 16 gauge steel I had. Is that thick enough? seems a little thin
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170723/0b0992c9ef6b2c6e05506fc8d94d3278.jpg)
The head is on my desk and is ready to get ported and polished. I just have to figure out how to compress the valves and I'm on my way. I have read that I will likely need to have new valve guides pressed in, and put new oil seals on them. Anything else I should replace in the head? I found out about the lighter MKIV cam followers that are supposed to fit. has anyone done this? is there a worthwhile advantage to using these?
I received my 1Z crank and pulleys this week. I am going to break down the bottom end and get measurements this weekend. I am hopeful that I can just do with a honing and a re-ring. I am going to have the block hot tanked and I am going to paint it with aerosol engine enamel. I plan to get the pistons ceramic coated if they check out. I am debating having the exhaust manifold and the turbo housing done while I am at it. I hear the stock rods are nearly bulletproof. Is there anything I can do at moderate cost or effort to improve them? I have heard mention of polishing them or having them coated. What are the advantages to these?
I now have a set of ARP head studs $13 a piece WOW that is a spendy piece of hardware. should I look at getting the main studs and connecting rod bolts as well, or is this overkill?
I grabbed a new manual steering rack tie rods and boots and spent a day getting my power steering out only to learn that the u-joint shaft that connects the rack to the steering column is longer for the manual car. So I spent another day connecting a hose to from the supply to the return on my PS rack and threw it back in. I now have the proper U-joint and a new boot to boot. So when I feel like spending another day on perhaps the most frustrating job ever I will finish the job.
that's what is new for now. I am pushing to get this done before mid September. I need a deadline or I am going to drag this on forever. I would like to get on to paint and body work this winter
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Just got off the phone with Giles. The pump and the Injectors are going in the mail today. He set it for 20PSI, but says It can go further if I get the bug. I'm so excited this thing is going to rip
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The racegeek.com EGR delete pipe includes a egr block-off of plate also
120.00
I will let you know.....
Iam going to Cearmic coat my exhust manifold and powder coat my intake after all the drilling is done..
The intake will be sent to extrude hone where they you a plasma sand/polish and it will make the intake like a mirror
They did my intake on my cast inlets on my Twin turbo / Intercooled aircraft engine....
Gee-Bee
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So I came up with a rig to get the valves out. Gear puller with a strut bolt socket (22m with a cutout for access). It's not pretty, but it worked like a charm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/f2377faeac0229870a479c6c8b302090.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/2c8627966c9f3b08fd3deb8de46b6e2c.jpg)
What I came to discover was that I seem to be lacking the inner spring and the lower valve spring seat for all 8 valves!
I'm going to post this in the IDI section as it gets more traffic and hopefully get some answers. It always makes me nervous when I take things apart and they look radically different than the Bentley.
Here is every thing I took out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/bbe3b658b4b6b15659e3844e1ef1f034.jpg)
Here is what is left, just a valve guide and an oil seal. Incidentally the valves had almost no play side to side, they would barely wiggle seems like my guides may still be good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/cb68739d81b230fa207a72f5a850a245.jpg)
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:)
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Where'd ya get that intake??? I've been eyeing those, the only one who has them is Ryan in the UK... $$$, much of it lost in the converison. Nice polish job. Will that intake still allow the top-mounted turbo our engines have, or are you using a different exhaust manifold?
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I got the intake from a guy on the tex. it came from Czechoslovakia and it was in fact still $$$. I think I paid extra for all the EGR gunk that came inside of it ::) It fits if you trim the long posts that I believe were used to mount the heat shield on the PD motors. it is hard to explain so I will post pics with it all bolted up when I am done with the head. It was a really simple modification though seriously less than 5 min with a hacksaw, and considering the time it takes to sand the casting marks out of the deep recesses of an intake manifold it is no work at all.
Gee Bee, I would be weary about mirror polishing the inside of your intake. I have read from good authority that a little grit on the surface actually promotes airflow. This comes from guys like Dave Cross (935 racer on here iirc) who have access to flow benches and dynamometers who can verify this sort of thing. If you are coating it inside then maybe it will flow better. I'd love to see some flow bench #'s either way just to verify if you do go that route
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I was always under the impression that it was only gassers who wanted to keep the intake a bit rough to help promote air/fuel mixing ???
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I'm greatly envious of your PD150 intake. I presently have a 1.6 intake on my AAZ and am looking for a good/cheap intake to replace it with.
Great build....you'll love the AAZ in the bunny-I do.
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Nice EGR block off plate on ebay 22.50
search : VW EGR
ITEM : 370081915897
Iam using McNally gauges on mine , Ouch 780.00 for a set of three
OIL TEMP/ PSI
WATER / VOLT
EGT/PSI BOOST
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/5674f63e8cd35c054676be6ef1b406cf.jpg)
So this showed up in the mail. It really does not get much better than opening a box and finding this. ;D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/87e77cfbf4a3bd5eefff4f4bf89df07d.jpg)
I ordered seats and inner springs, so I am playing with a full deck now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/9fad662bfdb519eef254b3ee87a0eb22.jpg)
I finished my P&P job, got the ports matched and got all the casting marks out. like it has been said before this isn't hard, just very tedious and time consuming. I caught a dremmel on fire in the process, so now I am on number 3. Some day I will have to invest in a nice big air compressor.
The head has the usual cracks between the valves and some around a couple of the prechambers, but nothing looks too bad.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/0b8014afb015510fe8550b67685b8bcb.jpg)
I got the injectors, also rebuilt by Giles, and new bosch fast glow plugs in. And yes I used new heat shields, I don't know why I had 2 of the old ones in the photo above. Reassembly was a lot easier than I anticipated, getting the keepers back in was a little tricky, but no where near the headache I was prepared for. I forgot to order a camshaft oil seal, so the cam will have to wait until I order new rings, because there is no way I am paying shipping for such a tiny part.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/c5bd8d6cb8db14a7ee2422cc9408d246.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/05d46009364051efe6af9b7a33fd47e4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/b82480c6b677a37925ae267bb1c04f6d.jpg)
Some of you wanted to see pictures of how the PD intake fit so here you go. You can see in the last picture the post that had to be trimmed to clear the compressor housing. These photo are taken with gaskets in place, so it should be identical to final assembly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/1ea222d2b35f500ac17c614d69e2069c.jpg)
Finally I broke the bottom end down. Two sets of bearings were chewed up, which explains all the metal I found in the oil pan. This scored the crank a bit too, but no worries since I am using a 1Z crank. What causes this to happen?
Next up I am going to take measurements of the bores and the pistons. Fingers crossed it will just be a hot-bath, a hone, and a re-ring.
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Love the rims!
Your wife must be pretty cool to let you put all those dirty ole parts all over the house and on the counter top! ;D My wife would have a fit!
When you put the engine back into the car, do you leave the turbo and manifolds installed on the head? Do you place the bottom end in 1st then place the head on with all the intake exhaust and turbo already installed onto the head? (Just curious, I have never taken an engine out or installed one, and probably never will)
Thanks for taking the time to show and explain your build! I am envious of your skillz!
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Thanks, and I'm not married, not sure if I would be for long if I was living with a woman and working on this project in the house ;). I don't think anyone's wife is that cool. I really need a garage. Plus the parts are pretty clean now, that's why the sink is an absolute mess ;D
As for the install, I'm still a bit from that point, but the plan is to completely assemble the engine, jack the car way up and slide the engine under and into place, then lower the car and bolt up the mounts. Once it's in I'll bolt up the down pipe intercooler piping wiring, hoses and the like. I think this will work, but like anything on an old VW I have come not to expect it to go smoothly on the first try.
Skillz huh? The only reason I am confident in doing this is because of the wealth of knowledge available on this forum. Between the bentley manual and the search function here I have answered almost all of my questions. When I do have a question the knowledgeable people on this forum have been quick to weigh in, without the pretension and judgment you might find on another very popular forum where on every thread some jacka$$ posts an animated gif of someone ejaculating on the screen. Seriously thanks to everyone for your help and support. This has been a lot of fun.
I forgot to mention in my update that I got the manual steering rack, tie rods, tie rod ends, u-joint shaft and new boots all swapped in. I did the old eyeball alignment on the driveway, with a bit of negative camber. I took it out on the highway, and wow what a difference. I have never felt so in control, almost like the car is anticipating what I want it to do. I had to modify the bracket that holds the shift linkage to the steering rack a bit, I just had to drill a hole and move a bolt. Other than that it was way easier than re-installing the power steering rack. I am gonna sell all of the power steering parts, so if someone is looking to go the other way, shoot me a pm
I spent a few hours at the cash&cary the other day and I grabbed a 120A bosch alternator out of a MKIII passat , but I took it to the autozone and it's fried, so there goes $20. They did have an audi with black leather seats that were in great shape. I think I am gonna have to call and ask how much $. I think they would look really good, and if I see another set of plaid recaros in a MKI I may have a fit. My MKIII seats are just not to my liking. Oh the same audi also has a K26 bolted to it, maybe I should grab that too?
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Looking Good !
Should of ceramic coated that exhaust manifold !
Iam ceramic coating from the DP back, it's a 2'5 Techtonic's
Gee-Bee
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Should of ceramic coated that exhaust manifold !
I'm still seriously considering it, I will probably send it off to Swaintech with the pistons and the turbine housing as well, but I am running low on funds, this project is going to drag on longer than I expected, oh well.
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Yeah, that's how these things go. My project was originally going to be a hone, ring, and go, but almost a year later and we are just now in the finishing stages. :P
Looking great so far!!!
Your plan for installing the engine sounds good. I bet you will find that it actually will go as easy as you said it will. :)
Brendan
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So I took the measurements and great news, all are well within tolerances and a lot were dead-on pistons are all within .001" I made a spreadsheet for the bore measurements. the worst number is .0025", and Bentley says .0039" is the limit. So we are good right? I'm gonna call around tomorrow and find a shop to hot tank and hone it, then I am gonna call swaintech and get these pistons off, and order a set of rings. Finally some good news on this thing. 8)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/953c041d45c9c6f6a71c4b72bc158d6a.jpg)
Also the 1Z crank pictured left has a disk bolted to it that the AAZ crank does not have. What is it? and can I remove it?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/b5f4f1f9b53dc96269511b95da349f95.jpg)
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That is the crank pulse trigger wheel that is used for the crank position sensor. Its a 1Z TDI right?
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Looks good, Ryan... good to hear something in spec on that motor. Sounds like it spun a bearing, that's usually the cause of chewed bearings; the bearing shifts in it's saddle and blocks the oil hole, and it's all downhill from there. This is what I was talking about when I said it had Montclair, CA, origins; Quality German Auto... those guys have a spotty history with their motors. He does get them from Germany, but God knows where he digs them up.
I just bought the same intake for my setup. :D Should make setting up the AWIC simpler, and I may send it to Extrude Hone for internal polishing.
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That is the crank pulse trigger wheel that is used for the crank position sensor. Its a 1Z TDI right?
yep 1Z TDI I just found the sensor in the Bentley and I asked over on the IDI forum, and just got the same answer. I think I'm going to just take it off
oh, I think it spun a few bearings and a couple of thrust washers, it was a bit of a mess, but the block didn't seem to take any damage. Speaking of which, where do you find the bearings for the connecting rods? I can find the main bearings and the thrust washers easily enough, but the con rod bearings seem to be a rarer bird.
Extrude hone would save you a lot of headache. It was a PITA trying to sand it by hand and with a flapwheel on a flexshaft, it worked though, and it was cheap, just time consuming.
also Jerry, does the offer still stand on the alternator, I have had one hell of a time trying to find a new one? Sorry to hear about your woes with those sweet rods you bought, that really stinks.
I feel like this thing is finally getting close, I can't wait to start reassembly
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Absolutely, PM or e-mail me with your address again, please. Just a thought... two bad alt.s in a row, maybe you should find another tester?? ;)
I solved my little clearance issue with the vigorous application of grindage with the ol' Dremel. Eh, the first assembly is always just practice, right? ::) At least I found the broken ring! I'll post some pictures tonight, the clearance to the oil squirter tabs is miniscule, but it works... I win. :D
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ok a few new things
IGot the block back from the machine shop. I had it hot tanked and honed. I took another set of measurements, it is still within spec, but a little closer to needing a larger bore. I think it is ok though, chime in if you disagree.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/3121f34f27ba32f8e68a1770e1a8387e.jpg)
I went ahead and measured the ring gap too, it is pushing the limit on the bottom ring, but I don't know what I can do as these came in a set.
I painted the block with duplicolor engine enamel, color is new ford gray. I am pleased, it was easy enough, but it needs a week to cure!!!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/f65874b30f031caf65fb46493ffbf83c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/0f6d0afa22d35f9c4b2d6f55cef1224f.jpg)
Do you like my engine stand? I think it's great.
The exhaust finally showed up, however there is a problem with the turbo flange. Hopefully it will get sorted out quickly though, otherwise it looks great, and I went ahead and polished the tailpipe.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/7898f5cebad12bd5f0312c132a6fe048.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/3961315c1f849ade0161179be2b159c7.jpg)
I have ordered a full set of bearings from Myke W. I am considering getting them low-friction coated when I finally get the damn turbo apart and so I can send a bundle of parts to the ceramic coater. I have been working on one bolt. I have sprayed it with PB Blaster at least a dozen times, I have hit it with the torch, and it will not budge. It is in such a place that I can only get to it with an open ended wrench. I can't even get the flare nut wrench on it, so it just slips off. I have no idea what to do, and I am about to give up on having the turbine housing coated.
I put a new seal in the waterpump and a new low-temp tstat. It is crazy all the little things you have to reassemble when you are doing a project like this. It has been way more work than I thought, but I am still very excited.
Cheers
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I've never had to try it- but have been told and have read- heat the part with the torch again- and put a candle against it. Repeat that a couple/few times.
The super heat lets the wax penetrate like nothing else.
Once it cools - give it the wrench.
Supposedly it works everytime.
If you can't get access the to thread end of the hole - it might not work. You'd have to grind away the outer portion of head of the bolt - leaving what was the head - as an axle - so to speak.
In other words, not just lopping off the entire bolt head.
Leave an "axle stub" to get vise grips onto. Then the wax can go down into and around the threads.
Or just lop off two sides of the head - leaving a box shape that a wrench can fit. And still give the wax some access/clearance to the thread hole.
Maybe post a picture of said bolt and more ideas will flow.
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My intake assy I did in Silver powder coat and I picked up two used turbo and sent both housings and the exhaust manifold and the two heat sheilds out for ceramic coating, They came out great it was around 250.00 for everything from a local shop here.
Iam going to send both turbo's to GPOPSHOP for OHC and I will probly sell the extra one since I already have a spare.
What was the problem from Techtonic's on the flange ?
Gee-Bee
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You will like the Swaintech coating. After I got the pistons back all I could do was ooh and ah at them for a while. :)
Brendan
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I have a quick question/concern. I have read a couple of places about buying two sets of bearings and not using the number 3. What's the deal with this? the number 3 was chewed to sh*t and the thrust bearings were pretty chewed up too. I don't want this to happen again, what can I do to make this thing bullet proof. I figured low friction coating would give me some insurance, but I'm still nervous.
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I have a quick question/concern. I have read a couple of places about buying two sets of bearings and not using the number 3. What's the deal with this? the number 3 was chewed to sh*t and the thrust bearings were pretty chewed up too. I don't want this to happen again, what can I do to make this thing bullet proof. I figured low friction coating would give me some insurance, but I'm still nervous.
Contact Myke W. He is a mod here and has the correct set of mains for the engine. I believe the problem is when the main bearing has the intergrated thrust washer. It ends up eating the crank shaft, but the stock design with the separate washers do not. Also, the #4 I believe ,check the faq, is the one if you use the extra or myke w's set has a 360 degree slot. This is for better oiling in the head and I think #3 rod if I am not mistaken.
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Well I ordered my bearing set from Myke W, so I should be good then huh? :)
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Yep, you should be good to go, though you may have to order new thrust washers if yours are chewed up. I got lucky with mine, I re-used them and the endplay was still bang-on. :)
Myke's bearings have the proper 360 bearing, I also cannot remember if it's #3 or #4 but I know I used it.
Brendan
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#4 gets the 360 oil channel... I found it in the archives after spending an hour trying to figure out why I had an extra channeled bearing. I thought Swain had lost one. :D
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awesome build, an absolute inspiration. thanks.
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Okay, sorry it has been awhile. I'm a grad student and this fall quarter was nuts, but only 4 classes (20 hours) stand between me and my masters.
I'm on break, so back to work on this lump
I got the pistons and the bearings coated by Swaintech. Piston has goldcoat on the crown and pc9 on the skirt. Sorry I did not take a pick of the bearings, but it is just a low friction coating looks a lot like the piston skirt
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/e2772ddc4e00f6640425193b872a8cf0.jpg)
I got ARP mainstuds I used the number on here for the 1.6 and they fit. 204-5402 is the number if anyone needs it
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/1e370bf8caf300287f728a9d8ea68408.jpg)
I used the Craftsman universal spring compressor to get these guys in. It was really pretty easy. Rings gaps are spaced 120º apart as per the Bentley spec.
I really love the color combo of the gold coat and the gray block paint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/cb9a56fc6859bc5f3502a04c79e0da9d.jpg)
Next I dropped in the bearings and the 1Z crank and bolted it up. I torqued the mains to the bentley spec first and then brought them up to the 60 ft.lbs ARP specs
I found out that the ARP connecting rod bolts I ordered (104-6002) do not fit. They apparently only fit the 1.6 engines. After much correspondence with the ARP tech I was still unable to get a good number for the AAZ >:(
The problem is that the AAZ bolt threads into the connecting rod itself. It DOES NOT have a separate nut and stud.
What did work surprisingly is ALH connecting rod bolts. the spec is M8x1.0x45 (really more like 43mm) the ALH is only threaded for the last 13mm or so and the bolts I took out were threaded for 32mm, also the dowel on the ALH bolt is much closer to the threads. However they fit and torqued up nicely (# on the bolt is 028 105 425C).
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/da43939ff108d17bede740ee979840e8.jpg)
Wow it feels good to rotate a freshly assembled engine doesn't it? I can't wait to hear it roar to life for the first time.
so next step is piston deck protrusion. Many people have shared their rigs for getting this number so I will share mine.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/7336eecb8de1b97fd36d049f3d9dddd5.jpg)
It is my dial gauge for IP timing with a nut as a spacer threaded into some aluminum channel with some 1/2" washers epoxied to them. Nice huh?
Anyway I zeroed it on the deck and then I spun it around a few times and took measurements on all the pistons mostly I got .030" but a couple times I got .032" either way that is well within the 1 notch range. It had a 3 notch on it before, but it was pretty shoddy looking anyway. most of the black paint or coating or whatever had peeled off needless to say it did not inspire confidence. So I ordered a 1 notch Victor Reinz from Autohaus AZ and priority shipped it Hopefully it will get here Thursday or Friday. if nothing goes awry I might be putting it in this weekend.
A few post's ago I mentioned that the flange on my downpipe from TT was wrong. I had considered sending it back to them, but the more I thought about it, it just seemed easier to fix it myself. All I had to do was drill 2 more holes. I think it will work for a K03 and a K14 now ;)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/cc7f5319d929ecb84c607c8956b53c3a.jpg)
here it is bolted up. I don't think it looks too bad
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/5e0100527dda4caf68c8188247e22dcc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/771fb066481e541397ac64e8fdbf0621.jpg)
I started sorting things out and figuring out which bolt goes where while I wait for the headgasket (zylinderkopfdichtung I wish I got to use that word more often). I also soaked the wastegate adjustment screw in PB for awhile and got it free. I went ahead and screwed it all the way in.;D I am going to see how that works and if I don't like it I will spend a few hundred on a boost controller. So here it is as it sits
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170722/e2feab7f2ade26999231934ee883bc2c.jpg)
I hope to have more by the end of the week.
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I'll take those arp crb off your hands I will need them for my build, nice work, looks excellent so far. I plan on sending my stuff off to a coater as well, how are their prices? anyone I should talk to over there?
thanks,
Kevin
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I hope to have the AAZ silicone engine hoses done in a few weeks, so I will keep you advises
Like the block color..
Gee-Bee
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Loving it. Looks great.
Don't spend a couple hundred on a boost controller. The boostvalve will work just as good:
http://www.boostvalve.com/volkswagen_2.html (http://www.boostvalve.com/volkswagen_2.html)
The A3-BV is for wastegated diesel's. Only $49.00!
I'll be using that one, if the need arises. Hitting 15psi right now with the wastegate blocked, but that's with a cracked intercooler. ::)
Brendan
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Don't spend a couple hundred on a boost controller. The boostvalve will work just as good:
http://www.boostvalve.com/volkswagen_2.html (http://www.boostvalve.com/volkswagen_2.html)
The A3-BV is for wastegated diesel's. Only $49.00!
Brendan
Thanks Brendan.
When I saw $50 I was sure you were linking me to a bleeder valve, and I was worried I was going to have to be all snobbish as to why that is not good enough.
I'm putting together my intake piping now. I'm going with aluminum straight sections and silicone connectors and elbows.
I got a bar and plate design FMIC that will fit in front of my radiator on ebay for $60 :o The similar one that siliconehoses.com sells was $170. It is good the intercooler was cheap because the piping is outrageously expensive. my first scheme was $800. I have simplified it and made sure I have easy access to my valve cover now and I am at about $500. I could take another $150 off of that if I just use the stock intake hose.
Intercooler should get here tomorrow, so I will get some pictures up, and the headgasket should come today. So I will be doing some serious assembly later on.
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Make a build list complete for the MK1 Intercooler, If you need any gaskets made or a silicone elbow ?
Shoot me a email
[email protected]
I will send you a pdf catalog
Gee-Bee
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/6a073700db3112099f680688967d0cd7.jpg)
so here is the intercooler. I'm psyched, not bad for $60. I'm going to try and fit it and get it mounted tomorrow.
Too bad there is still no sign of my headgasket. I hate waiting on stuff to get here, but I love opening boxes full of parts.
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Did the Mount pic's help ?
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just a quick update of this weekend's progress. The timing belt tensioner I had ordered did not fit. I think it is for a TDI. I got a couple of parts from autohaus AZ that did not fit and I think that is the issue. It says AAZ on the engine code, but it also says TDI so I think it is a mix of parts. I went to Autozone, Pepboys, and Napa and no one had a VW timing belt tensioner. Anyway since the tensioner looks just like my 1.6D tensioner I just ordered one of those and priority shipped it. Fingers crossed it will get here midweek. My silicone and aluminum bits for the intake are due to get here thursday. With no further issues next weekend should be the one.
on with the photos.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/cd8de90818ef5ff2d771ad54e4ada1e4.jpg)
Here is the headgasket in place on the studs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/565a1929e790e44877ae44adb515bad7.jpg)
and here with the head torqued down to 80ft.lbs. That is the ARP specification, but I have read some people have taken them higher. What is the consensus on this?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/0a94a68eee304a927be00ae709a332b3.jpg)
One issue I did discover with the fitting of the PD150 intake is with the turbo oil supply line. However it was pretty easy to bend it a bit with a tubing bender and get it to work. The other issue I foresee is that my fitting for my boost gauge hose is very close to the turbine housing and is actually touching the heat shield between. I am going to try and find a kevlar jacket for a sparkplug wire to insulate it and route it as far above as possible.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/acb68558b8c364915d374e63e1190a6d.jpg)
here you can see the tighter bend in the oil line.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/36c6bc3e722d69ae8fb81b031e373444.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/68c6f03a563688653307fe78dcdbb47e.jpg)
I have almost everything bolted back up. I just need to get the timing done so that I can finish it up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/b2677869f8af32862a4f4d137f4d5f06.jpg)
One issue I am having is that the alternator bracket for this car is unusual. The bentley calls it out as with powersteering and without AC. It has a spring mounted under it and it acts as the tensioner for the serp belt. All the replacements I have been able to find look like the one on the right. It seems to me I have one of two options and neither is great.
1. move the guts from the working alternator with the wrong housing into the bad alternators housing
2. find the bracket and tensioner that will hold the working alternator. I'm not even sure about this because I think it was positioned above the AC compressor which I will not be running, and do not have
Plan C of course is to rig something up.
Someone has had to have encountered this before. What do you suggest I do to sort this out?
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Oof... Devil's in the details, huh? Do you have any electrical shops near you that might rebuild the original alt. for you? Otherwise, I'd try for a guts swap with the other one. You may even get away with just swapping the voltage regulator, that's usually what craps out, the rotor & stators hardly ever go bad... just clean up the contact armatures and make sure the brushes are in decent shape. Biggest hassle is going to be breaking those through-screws loose. PB-blast thoroughly first, as usual. :P
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this is looking good 8)
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I know a specialty shop that just deals in starters/generators and mostly for rock crawlers and big trucks. They do excellent work and they have an "old timer" on staff he personally fixed the generator for my 54' plymouth, and guess what they didn't have to send out for specialty parts :o they had all the obscure stuff in the shop they also are the largest retailer of interstate batteries on this coastline, like no joke, seriously sent the alt to them. Ace alternator in yucca valley, CA. These guys know their stuff, and they can refurb your trash man. looks spectacular so far by the way, the giles tag was a nice touch.
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That alt bracket doesnt look like mine ( AAZ ) there is a alt bracket on ebay for non-a/c
ITEM 150396210242
Ref your pulley/ tensionor see ebay item:290370187324 for engines up to year 1994/95
290370189262 Engine serial 5572766 with late model pump with timing on the adj on the pulley
there are two different models for engine #'s
Try some 5/8 i.d. fire jacket ( firesleeve ) from aircraft spruce for your harness
let me know, How did the rear mount pic's help ?
GB
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Thanks GB
the picture did help. I think I am just going to modify mine with das hacksaw ;D
BFI was selling the gasser style but apparently they are out of stock and I don't want to waste a week trying to find one at a boneyard or on samba or ebay and then have to get a new mount pressed in. I am really anxious to get this done.
I ordered that alternator bracket. Thanks for the heads up. I figure it will open up a few more options for me.
Also I found a vendor on the tex selling ABF serp belt set ups for the MKI and he has the alternator 90A brand new, only problem is he is charging $350 for it with the bracket. I have PM'd him for a price sans bracket. would be nice to have a fresh alternator to go with my fresh engine.
Thanks Kevin, I might try and find a shop on the east coast first though. But getting it fixed for a backup is a great idea. I actually think my setup looks cleaner without the separate tensioner so I would prefer to run it.
I figured I would leave Giles' tag on that pump for the photos and give him a little free advertising. This is the second pump he has done for me, and the workmanship, the performance and the customer service have been nothing short of awesome.
Yeah Jerry, you always leave the last few difficult details for last and then they bite you in the bum. I just keep thinking about hearing it run for the first time. It is going to be worth it. How is your's going by the way? I haven't seen an update in sometime.
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Glad you got the alt bracket, I have both brackets now with and without A/C both set's (4 )went to powder coat, I found a brand new Bosch 90 amp alt on ebay
Iam non running air until next year when I do the cabby dash swap and will add a Scirocco radiator and condenser, I have plenty of room with my Citi South African front end core support.
Iam waiting on a Ko4/KO3 hybrid coming the first of the year andwill wait for my giles pump at that time.
I have three cores going to Giles, all late model pump's, one has new hardlines and a complete set injector body's
Glad I could help...
P.S. Iam waiting on a complete set of AAZ engine hoses to go to the tool maker so we can have a set of silicone engine hoses in blue done., next will be the four body hoses , upper lower radiator and two coolant lines from the heater core for the MK1.
GB
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P.S. Iam waiting on a complete set of AAZ engine hoses to go to the tool maker so we can have a set of silicone engine hoses in blue done., next will be the four body hoses , upper lower radiator and two coolant lines from the heater core for the MK1.
GB
I will be interested. I am doing blue silicone for the intake. Just let me know when they are ready. Do you have a ballpark on the price?
Thanks again for the heads up on that bracket
Ryan
P.S. I just got a message back from the guy on the Vortex $229 for a new 90A alternator with a 1 year warrantee. So I went for it. Now I'm gonna have backup. Oh and three 18" lengths of polished aluminum 2.5" piping showed up today ;D
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You're gonna beat me to start-up. ;) Mine's almost exactly where you are in re-assembly, but it's a long way from going into the van... I'm pretty much shut down for the winter. No heat in the garage, and it's hard to get enthusiastic about bundling up to go work on anything. I still have to configure the van with the diesel fuel tank, run the lines for oil & intercooler, etc etc.
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Iam waiting on aaz engine hoses, I hope less than 135.00
GB
P.S.
The dude on ebay ( alt Bracket ) had a clean airbox and T2 with AAZ exhaust manifold for 25.00 also that I need to go with the brand new T3 I got the other day ,I know gpopshop was looking for some cores so I had him ship it to them
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Looking great! All that and no glowplug pimping though? ;)
Brendan
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Looking great! All that and no glowplug pimping though? ;)
Brendan
:-[ I know, I knew someone was going to call me out on that. I'm going to do it eventually. I'm just trying to get it done. I'm going to need to redo the wiring harness at some point. I figured I'd save it till then. Plus it is 70ºF here today. So I don't need them as much as some of you guys anyway ;)
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The engine is finally ready for the swap. Here's how it looks
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/02d3e162e1b078787f45dc1e267eeedd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/3d3df4716ac82bbd68cf4ee2c76e48c5.jpg)
I received the new 90A alternator last night. I had a hard time finding a 6PK belt short enough though this one is a 945mm I took a 923mm off of it.
I had ordered a conti-tech belt from Autohaus, but It is a 1045mm. I think it is for the other alternator on the other bracket.
Also it was hell getting the stock pulley off, but I finally did and I got the freewheel pulley
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/749d0aa3fdb04ead5f3bccbc81e1a7fd.jpg)
And the back. I put thermo wrap on the downpipe. It is not as pretty or durable as ceramic coating, but it is a hell of a lot cheaper and will have to do for now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/af6e72ab2ada3f423f7c390eb40c35b6.jpg)
You can see in this one how the rear timing cover had to be modified a bit. This is so the MKI mount will fit.
Gee Bee had emailed me pics of his, which jogged my memory as to how the passenger side mount bolted up.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/100f7886ac1856021521cc96b4a28964.jpg)
here is the stock rear timing cover.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/68741a57283b5c1768743dea397657b6.jpg)
And here it is modified. the lip has to be cut off the rear, and the post that the outer cover screws into has to be removed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/4e4a5a5ae4f3425f9b83ad0d37a613c9.jpg)
finally here is a close up of it bolted to the engine.
So tomorrow the old engine comes out and this one goes in. We will see how much I get done.
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Well here is the score for today
Volkswagen 1
Ryan 0
I have had to remove both manifolds and the alternator from the 1.6L to get it out of the car.
The issue is that the damn driveshafts are in the way, and I do not have a socket big enough to get them off.
What size is it anyway? I need to get one because eventually I'm going to have to do them.
The nuts are rusty as hell too. Going to be one of those PB blast, torch, repeat jobs for sure.
So right now the 1.6D is sitting on a dolly and the car is up on jackstands. Tomorrow morning I'm going to jack it up high and slide the old lump out
Then I need to swap the transmission, motor mount and a few other items over to the AAZ and slide it under.
I think I will need to take the alternator off of the AAZ for sure, and probably the turbo. I think the manifolds will clear though.
It is just the turbo that sticks out pretty far. Nothing sticks out as far as the 1.6NA intake manifold though. That thing is an ugly beast.
Damn the winter for the cold and the short days. I really need a garage.
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easiest way for me was remove bolts to the D/P from the mani. remove the intake plumbing then unbolt the head as soon as thats done then unbolt the tranny and pick out the engine weighs about 125 wet and 88.5 dry could be wrong, prove me wrong, I am a MARINE and am in pretty good shape "if I do say so myself" and often underestimate my own strength. oh and an impact helps for the castle nuts on the drivehsafts a 28 if I remember the size corectly. good luck
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The axle nut is 30mm and the inner ones are triple square 8mm.
As for your issue with the tensioner I think I know what happened. In 95 (or part way through) VW changed the design of the tensioner. They stuck with that design all the way through 2003 (I think). Your head is from a pre 95 engine so it has the old style tensioner. You are correct in ordering one for the 1.6.
That's a very sexy looking engine by the way :o
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Thanks for the info and the compliment Tyler. Yeah the 1.6 tensioner fits thanks for answering that for me. Who needs a later style tensioner?
NintendoKD, I'm 6'-1" 150 lbs on a good day. I'm built for endurance, not power. There is no way I could pick this lump up. The best I could do was scoot it around, and I am sore as hell from that.
Okay picture time
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/ab6e482e99bfc5bb9c7f39f60c7b85ac.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/b28de40632cc7cd3b770f65edc1142f5.jpg)
So I got the old engine out in a few hours this morning. I just jacked up the car as high as I could on my jackstands and wrestled it out
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/afb1b8cd370433393b49bbacd0d06ce7.jpg)
I have always wanted to post a picture of my engine bay empty and waiting for a fresh new motor. I must admit it feels good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/110a476389cea29794e7e47e2e304869.jpg)
Well I separated the transmission and took off my clutch flywheel pressure plate assembly for the swap, took off the plastic elbow off the bottom of the water pump that holds the thermostat as mine was different from the AAZ one, and I need it to mate up with my radiator hose. And I grabbed the motor mount too. You can see in this photo how it held the injection pump as well. The sharpie line is where I had to cut it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/5f0beb1fbdb94f9c0e3bd4794dbd46c0.jpg)
Here it is modified. a little notch has to be taken off the top too. It fits like a dream though. The injection pump half went back on the NA motor, now it will work with a gasser mount.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/cd4795565e1c829ee41b181681c8cf2c.jpg)
so I strapped the fresh motor to a handtruck and wheeled it out of the house and down the back stairs (let me tell you that was fun). The first floor of my house is about 4' off the ground so not too many steps, but enough to make me pretty nervous.
After the stair adventure I bolted up the pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and transmission. I got the shift linkage and the duckbill spoiler out of the way, and then I slid it under and wrestled it into position. The little dolly I made was more trouble than it was worth. I ended up just sliding the engine under on a piece of 3/4" plywood. I took off the right front tire and I let the car down as low as I could. jacked the belt side of the engine up a hair and slid the bolt for the passenger mount in. It was hell, but I got it lined up eventually. Then I just jacked the transmission up and got the driver side mount in. That one was way easier of course.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/e7e77882497f30f985066aff8e09313c.jpg)
here is how it looks. I got it a little dirty on the install. I will have to clean it up before the final assembly photos. After the photo was taken I jacked the car back up and got the shift linkage back in and put the turbo on. Unfortunately I ran out of daylight at that point. The rest must wait until tomorrow. I hope to hear it run by the end of the day. I am so psyched about that.
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No Cherry picker? wow! I gotta hand it to ya great job "to be brutally honest" i would have done something similar. ;D
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Today I got everything hooked up except the intercooler and radiator.
The Intercooler is too big >:( it is about 13.5" tall and I have about 12.5" to work with. I have no idea what to do.
I think I am going to just run without it and connect the turbo outlet directly to the intake manifold until I find a smaller intercooler and sell this one.
I am so disappointed, but I don't want to start cutting big pieces out of my radiator support.
I'm going to be beyond busy with my thesis until June. I guess it will have to wait until then.
The exhaust was also a pain in the ass. It was missing one of the clips and a rubber hanger, but what really pissed me off is that the down pipe was too long, I had to cut 1.5" off of it to get it to fit. It probably could still do to be a 1/4" to 1/2" shorter. I know a lot of people on here speak highly of techtonics tuning, but I will never buy anything from them again. I paid nearly $1,000 for it. The flange was for the wrong turbo, the downpipe was too long and it was missing a hanger, oh and it took 2 months from the time I ordered it. I realize a certain amount of trouble is going to be part of a custom job, but I think this was too much. Anyway it is in now and it looks great.
I have been working on this thing from sunup to sundown for the last 3 days. I really need to hear it run soon.
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Ouch !
I paid 300.00 for the KO3 S/S 2.5 DP from them and another 315.00 for a complete 2'5 flowmaster exhaust for the caddy, I wanted a comlpete S/S exhaust and they said no.
So I ceramic coated the complete exhaust with the drilled and tapped the AAZ exhaust manifold.
let me know what you need for the I.C. in size and parts ( Silicone Coupling's etc . )
I know people..
GB
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I think there might be a few who are slapping their foreheads after reading that Andrew...
(http://image.autopartsonlinecanada.com/live/A810095401REI.JPG)
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Thanks guys. I had the 3 notch that came with the motor so I swapped it out for that. Took about 6 hours to do.
That was a great save Andrew as soon as you mentioned it I noticed the difference.
I had a couple coolant leaks, but I fixed those quickly enough.
It took forever to get the damn pump primed.
Eventually I got it to start, but only with the cold start pulled and it runs really rough sputtering and creating a lot of smoke.
I kept having to rev it to keep in running putting in about 5psi of boost. Even still it cut out a few times.
Any thoughts? I have never started a fresh motor before and I have no idea what to expect, but I think it should run better than this.
Am I lacking compression because I should be running a one notch? Is there still air in the fuel?
I timed the pump at .036", my dial indicator is in inches, but that is about ,91mm. Giles said .90mm to .95mm
I'm kinda wishing I just left it alone at this point. At least the 1.6 was running.
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any way to prime that pump faster? I'm thinking using a gator grip socket on an electric drill on a low speed and just turn the darn thing and then time it. No? Bad idea? good idea? make it a how to and sticky it? 8)
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*Slaps forehead*
SON of a BEEEAAAATCH! :P What's bumming me out is that I have no idea which one I installed... Hopefully I can dig up a receipt or copy of the order, that was back in March. Or maybe I have a photo of it in the camera.
Nice catch, Andrew. I had no idea there was a difference.
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I prime all my pumps the same way when at the shop or have an air compressor. I use a fluid extracktor with the smallest hose fitted, unhook the small injector return line to the return banjo fitting and connect the vacuum/fluid extracktor to it. Clamp off the main return line as to not suck fuel from it, and turn it on. It'll pull fuel all the way from the tank through the pump. Only left to bleed the injectors. Works every time with no problems, and can be used to check for air in lines.
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how much does one o them cost? good for bleeding brakes and clutches too, really any hydruolic system without copious amounts of pressure
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Got mine from NAPA, around $120. I consider it one of my major tools needed daily.
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I don't think I have ever seen an electric drill strong enough to turn this engine over. However you do it make sure you run 12v to the fuel shut of solenoid before you go working yourself into a sweat cranking the piss out of it with your socket wrench. Don't ask me how I know :-[
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Thanks guys. I had the 3 notch that came with the motor so I swapped it out for that. Took about 6 hours to do.
That was a great save Andrew as soon as you mentioned it I noticed the difference.
Was this a spare HG or you reused a previously installed HG?
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Thanks guys. I had the 3 notch that came with the motor so I swapped it out for that. Took about 6 hours to do.
That was a great save Andrew as soon as you mentioned it I noticed the difference.
Was this a spare HG or you reused a previously installed HG?
previously installed. It came with the engine. All the black coating had flaked off. It is metal though. I thought they were reusable. Also I only torqued the ARP studs to 80 ft. Lbs.
Is is not sealing?
Where can I get a one notch aaz headgasket?
I saw Myke W has a 2 notch at least that is closer.
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I got my 1 notch metal from Myke. I don't know why he doesn't list them. It did take longer for it to come in but he can get them.
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VWMOTORS on ebay has them , Just email Thomas..
GB
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The metal head gaskets aren't reusable. The rubber valve cover ones are though. :)
sounds like we have diagnosed my problem.
I guess this also means I can't return that TDI gasket huh? ;)
I should have it down to 4 or 5 hours for a headgasket change this time
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Don't feel bad. I've done the Wife's car twice now too. ::)
Love my lift pump. No priming needed. :)
It should run pretty good on first start-up, if everything is kosher.
Brendan
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I got the one notch headgasket from Myke W in the engine today.
I discovered that the timing belt had skipped a few notches on the crank pulley.
I vaguely recall an instance when I forgot I had left the socket wrench on the crank bolt and turned the key. A true well there's your problem moment for sure :-[.
Anyway with the new headgasket and proper timing it fired right up. ;D
I took it out and wow it is fast. Also apparently the vacuum pump on my 1.6 was not working cause damn I have some power assisted brakes now.
I need to back the screw out on the wastegate soon. At 3/4 pedal it is making 25psi in a matter of seconds, and if I floor it it pegs the boost gauge at 30. :o
This is waaay too much for the k14, but I guess it is proof that the Giles pump, head port, PD intake and exhaust are producing the desired effect.
btw I never saw EGT's above 1200, but I didn't sustain boost above 10psi for more than a few seconds. This is good news since the intercooler will have to wait until the summer.
I went roids style and threw the air filter in the rain tray. It really does fit well in there, but damn it is LOUD. I think it may make me crazy.
I'll try and snap some pics this weekend. for now I am going to run a few errands with it this week, check for leaks and enjoy the jet noise coming from my intake.
Thanks again to everyone for your help.
Cheers,
Ryan
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I can't wait to hear that sound :o ;D That is what I am after a diesel that sounds like a jet engine.
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WOOT! Congrats, mate! ;D Happy new year, and happy motoring!!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/5f29d8505cc97d82477e4a0e9a70ded2.jpg)
Here is a photo of how it looks right now.
It has been pretty solid, the fuel return line sprung a leak, but I just cut off the damaged piece and reconnected it.
The turbo to intake piping is only temporary, until I get an intercooler that fits
I need to come up with a plan for what to do with the breather on the hockey puck, cause right now it is spitting oil on my valve cover, also I don't want it to suck up anything nasty. What have you guys that are not running a stock intake done about this? I don't have fabrication skills so welding a bung onto my intake and connecting it there isn't a cheap and easy option.
I backed the wastegate screw out 3/4 of a turn, and it works, but I can't build above 15psi, and the EGT's build pretty quickly. I am going to get a boost controller, and hopefully find an intercooler that will fit pretty soon.
It pulls pretty hard, and clutch slip is becoming an apparent issue. I reused the clutch I had on the 1.6 with it. It had the 16v pressure plate and an 8lb flywheel. The LWFW is a bit tricky because with too little pedal it will hesitate or stall, and with too much it will boost up and launch, and the window between the two is quite small. When I received the engine the flywheel was bolted directly to the crank. I assume this is for the 02A, because on my setup the pressure plate bolts to the crank? I am looking for a recommendation for a good setup for the AAZ/020 combo that can hold this kind of torque, but will be pleasant for a daily driver
One more question for people who have done this swap. How do I get a water temperature reading? The sensor on the neck for the top radiator hose has 4 wires. I have tried all of them and none have made my needle move. Am I going to have to swap the neck off of my 1.6?
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the air filter assy. looks like it was really easy to put on ;) Looks awesome, hope mine turns out half as nice.
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Aircraftspruce.com has the blue hose in 1/2 , 5/8 and 3/4 I.D for the breather
Search: silicone hose
I think if you relocated the fuel filter to the rh front fender and used a stock AAZ intake tube problem solved.
Iam going to use the stock airfilter inlet duct to a K&N Filter assy ( 2.5 ) i.d. ( Model RB-0720 )
I have a extra assy if you need one, 35.00
Those four silicone elbows and clamp's werent cheap either .
Can you shoot me a pic of your hardline to heater valve where it connects
MY AAZ HARDLINE ( COOLANT) IS 3/4 O.D. AND MY OUTLET IS 7/8 O.D.? IS YOURS THE SAME ?
[email protected]
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yeah, the air filter was as easy as it gets, I just marked it with a sharpie and went at it with a hole saw. I cut up an old piece of rubber hose and lined the hole with it for good measure. Plenty of cold air in there, but I'm serious it is mind-numbing how noisy it is. I don't know if I am going to leave it that way. I was thinking I would throw that silicone 45º in there after I got the FMIC in just to get it a little further away from any water that may drip through the cowl.
GB, yeah that silicone is not cheap, those are the pieces I am going to use for the intercooler piping, it is just a rig I threw together with what I had. I am just going to sell off any extras I have when I am finally happy with the setup.
I have the stock intake hose, I was just hoping to improve upon it, especially since an open dual cone filter in the engine compartment would be sucking hot air.
I do recall there being a bit of a fight with the hardline to heater. I think my hose is quite old and pliable so I just forced it over the AAZ Hardline. I will try and get a picture for you anyway, but I don't think it is a permanent solution.
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I have some silicone hose reducers on there: 4 inches long 3/4 to 7/8 or 3/4 to 1' i.d.
Hardline coolant is 3/4 I.d.
let me know and I will get one in the mail.
They will be a option on the aaz Hose engine kit
let me know..
GB
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I'm eventually going to need that in my build, I'm paying very close attention to this thread, lots of good Ideas do's and don'ts. Thanks guys.
Kevin
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/d1d4d7e2fe6d1abcf1fe194c5e52f7ef.jpg)
I got this one off of ebay. The core dimensions are 20" x 6" x 3".
I had to present my thesis yesterday. I have been working around the clock on it. It went well, but I still have a ton to do.
Anyway I decided to take a relaxing day and work on the rabbit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/568ae56e3fd8646b2e15fa0da801beb9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/7256a964a899359728f9272882535f10.jpg)
Here it is bolted in place,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/ec73566dc19fc1130bbc02cce056578e.jpg)
and with all the piping hooked up. I put a 45º on the intake and got the filter further up into the corner of the rain tray.
The radiator actually fit on the stock mounts behind it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/56171768ec2fdfb44dd7b356dad6854a.jpg)
Here is the piping going into the intercooler,
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/200e0efb0bdaedb389aafd0d30cf61cd.jpg)
and from the front.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/23112e030148f66d4a9e8b5710fda837.jpg)
You can see it through the grille. Maybe I should paint it black so it sleeps.
I swapped the neck for the top radiator hose from my old 1.6D over, and now I have a working temperature gauge. This is especially good since I just put a huge obstruction in front of my radiator. ;) I also installed the heater hose that GEE BEE hooked me up with. I am going to take it out and hit the highway with it, but driving it around town I noticed a drop in EGT's
Next up clutch.
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Andrew, I did not bead the pipe ends. Do you think they are going to leak, or blow off? I don't have access to that kind of equipment.
And I love it too. Working on a car is so simple. There is always a right answer it is just a matter of troubleshooting. I always feel a sense of accomplishment.
The end of most days of grad school I usually feel overwhelmed and confused, which I am beginning to think is the point. Good thing I will be done in May.
The IC works really well though, I was doing 70mph on the highway 10PSI for about 10 minutes and the EGT's held at 700ºF. The water temp stayed at 2 ticks below center, which means my low temp T-stat appears to be working. Oil temp held at about 205ºF so the FMIC does not seem to be preventing the radiator from doing its job. The true test will come this summer when we hit that 110º heat index.
The clutch is slipping right around 12PSI and I can't build much more than that right now. I really need to get a boost controller and a new clutch so I can see what this thing can do.
Already it is not even the same car. I think it feels like it will be nearly as quick as my R32!! btw I have been missing her a lot less recently.
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I like it.......
I am relocating the battery ( Ultima ) behind the passenger seat and this will make it easier for me to go straight to the front drivers side intercooler inlet
Glad the 1.6 coolant flange worked and the 8v hose I sent fit as needed, thanx for sharing.
GB
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Great thread - very inspirational....Lots and lots of helpful information. I'm contemplating doing a rebuild on my 1.9 so this will be very helpful. Thanks to all for sharing.
jack's lack - I have to hand it to you, all this and no garage or major shop tools and working on a thesis to boot. Your an inspiration - great project, great looking car, two thumbs up to you!
Man I love this site.
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ein bora, thanks for the love, and good luck with your project.
Andrew, I am going to have to try to rig one of those tools up. Thanks for the tip. Added to the punch-list.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/6a99108e986d349fed7c3e5b26989b9d.jpg)
so another little project. I got this from boostvalve. It is the ball and spring type. It came with two different springs. I installed the heavy one
first step was to remove the hardline that runs from the compressor housing to the wastegate.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/1dc45df1ea69cecfdd0245bf8b0e3cd2.jpg)
Next I used a tubing cutter to cut a piece out of the hardline
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/f94ee496940feac5d3f240f4975d8676.jpg)
I used my bubble flair tool that I had to do the brake lines to flare the end of the tube to discourage leaks. If only I had one for a 2.5" pipe.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/7fd5af480aff6488633d1be1d73dd015.jpg)
Here is the final assembly ready to go in the car
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/e3f5f260ada04a15d662f4bb31649a16.jpg)
Here it is in the car. Sorry about the photo I took it tonight when I finished. I had to use the flashlight to complete the job.
the valve is held in place with the bolt and hole that previously held the hardline to the compressor housing. The location is quite convenient for adjustment.
I have about 5 or 6 threads showing on the controller. I took the car out and let it build some serious boost on the on-ramp. The wastegate is opening right at 20-21PSI. Perfect on my first try. The clutch of course is slipping when the accelerator is about half way to the floor, but I can get it to make 20PSI in 5th gear without slipping. EGT's were awesome under 900ºF the whole time.
Of course it is actually below freezing here right now. I have had it with the El Nino. My house is on a pier foundation. It was built in 1905 which means no insulation whatsoever and it leaks like a sieve. My floor is like walking on ice. I don't know how you guys up north do this.
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I don't know how you guys up north do this.
Cold? COLD!? Cold is replacing a CV joint while its snowing, and -20C (-4F) before wind-chill ;)
I just read all 7 pages was it? and I LOVE YOUR PROGRESS and determination to detail. Dammnnnnn lol.
Really good work throughout this entire thread!
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awesome work man
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I have solved the clutch slip issue
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/74eece2f850212c0904d639e09a4c0ba.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/7ffe43b85b694e0b6488a554483c4f39.jpg)
With ACT Heavy Duty Pressure plate. ACT says these are good for 357 ft/lbs of torque, which gives me plenty of room to grow ;D
I considered going with their modified sprung disc (no pucks), which is rated at 279 ft/lbs, but I decided better safe than sorry.
It is going to take me a little while to learn to drive this thing. I have stalled it twice, and I can't remember the last time I felt like I couldn't drive a stick :-[
Sometimes I get it right and it is a smooth take off, but often I just lurch it. The rivets on my ring gear are not going to last long like this. I think in a week I'll have it dialed in.
I'm pretty sure my old clutch got some coolant, oil, water, or some combination all over it because it was kinda greasy and did not look happy
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/a5fc4374a11ad8788801339061125e7b.jpg)
This guy isn't even that old it is a Sachs 210mm 16v'er clutch
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/1a48372598c6cba17913acb6027bdf00.jpg)
And it made quite a mess in here. I cleaned the flywheel when I did the swap. This is after 1,000 miles!!! I cleaned it really well with some brake cleaner before I reinstalled it.
I have come up with a few explanations for the problem. First I did not have a timing check cover. The car did not have one when I bought it, and I could never find one. I found one on the german autoparts website, so that issue has been addressed.
Second I installed the engine with the galvanized metal cover that came with the AAZ, which was apparently for an 02A and left the bottom of the pressure plate exposed. So when I changed the clutch I swapped it for the 020 one that was on my 1.6D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/3747d2c5ffadf74165bc7a2bcf42dc01.jpg)
02A is on the left, 020 on the right.
The end result is that the clutch no longer slips and this thing is a beast! I took it out on the highway and floored it on the on ramp. I am amazed at how quick it is. I was making 25PSI so I swapped the softer spring into my boost controller and did a few runs to get it dialed in around 20PSI max. EGT's build to 1200ºF pretty quickly with the pedal on the floor, and obviously it makes a little black smoke. When I let off to about 3/4 pedal though they drop down to around 900ºF and I am still accelerating.
It is a lot quicker than I thought it would be. I feel that I have achieved my goal of making this thing as quick as my sister's MKIV 1.8T Jetta, of course now she is trading it in for a Japanese subcompact so I will never get to confirm this. ::)
Next I am going to relocate my air filter under the hood, because I can't take the noise anymore. Also I have come up with a way to connect the hockey puck to the intake as part of the same modification. I will have to relocate the fuel filter to do this, so I got some new fuel line to accomplish this. Pics to come soon.
Also the radiator is leaking pretty badly, so I bought a new one. I got the kind with the integrated reservoir to clean the bay up a bit, but I can see that mounting it will take some rigging. I will post up picks on how I work it out, when I do.
Finally I decided I would upgrade to the USRT shift linkage, when I did the clutch, but my kit is missing a piece. It makes me crazy when you pay good $$$ for parts and they show up with pieces missing. Do I just have bad luck, or is this the accepted standard? So anyway it will have to wait, and I don't know when I am going to have time to get to it.
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yeah, pucked clutches take some getting used to.
I am running a four puck and found that the best way to keep it from being jerky and stalling is to NOT use the throttle much when clutching out from a stop.
just smoothly pull the clutch out and just give it a little bit of fuel, once you have your foot of the clutch pedal you can get crazy with the throttle.
on the other side, if you want a tire burning start, bury the throttle, let the revs come up and simply pull your foot off the clutch fast, it will grab, and you will go. none of the slipping your old clutch used to do(this is what these clutches were built to do)
-Owen
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Looks great. The polished pd intake really sets the engine off visually. I'll definitely have to get one sometime.
Any plans for a different turbo?
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Thanks Owen, I think I was giving it too much fuel. It does seem a lot smoother to let the clutch almost entirely out before giving it diesel.
Any plans for a different turbo?
Maybe not in the near future, but the thought has crossed my mind. I love the quick spool on the K14, but I am concerned about running it up to 20psi. I drove it on the highway for a few hours at 70mph and it was making 10-15psi for that entire time. The oil temps got pretty high. Part of my plan is to build a 020 transmission with a tall ring and pinion and run a .71 5th so its like a 1-4 + 6 setup, but I don't know if that will be enough. I think if I go through the trouble of changing the downpipe, exhaust manifold, and oil lines, that I might as well go for a VNT Turbo. That way I could see nearly instant boost, but not be way outside of efficiency on the highway. why, what were you thinking?
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The problem with the k-series turbos is that they max out their egt's before their boost. As you have seen already. You aren't really getting the most out of your ported head and custom exhaust because the turbo is the bottleneck in the system. I think you should look at a larger frame vnt like a vnt20 or so. Even a T3 would be a better match for your engine and light mk1 chassis, imo.
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A little bridge climbing and highway fun, enjoy.
1982 VW Rabbit Diesel AAZ Swap @ 20 PSI (http://vimeo.com/10493750)
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can't wait, looks like a real blast. ;D
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Road looked like a real stagecoach ride..... !
GB
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Wow. just wow.
everything...
wow.
dash
engine
gauges are mint
turbo bark
everything. im going to make a vid tomorrow once and for all so everyone can laugh at me.
ps. im in love with you and your car.
holy hell it must be a fun ride
my thoughts: a T3 or a bigger GT something something would make that engine sheer drive line parts and melt tires off the rims.
it would go like, as my budd says my car does, "a raped ape".
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Use this guy for your trans build : VWTRANSAXLE.COM
375.00 for a OHC , plus he will install your Peloquin
GB
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Wow, I must have something wrong then. No boost at highway speed, with EGT's at around 900F or so.
Of course, it's not intercooled and I have the fuel cranked up a bit.
This build is amazing. Good job!
Brendan
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At 01:00 it looks just like your avatar picture. :D
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Awesome build! Your skills and determination are remarkable. Although I can't figure out how students have time and money for such things, certainly wasn't the case for me when I was in school.
Wouldn't a K24 turbo be more appropriate for an engine like this? I am running one on my 1.6TD as it came from the factory. Some may say it's too big for a 1.6 and I won't argue, but for an upgraded 1.9 I would think the K24 would be a good match while to my admittedly untrained eye the K14 looks like a major restriction.
Thank you for taking the time to document and post your work - it will be a great resource for others.
-David
http://motorheads.net/vw/turbobus (http://motorheads.net/vw/turbobus)
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Thanks. My glib answer to school, time, and money would be coffee and Visa ;), but the next two paragraphs offer a more detailed explanation, because I fear I may have come off as someone who I am not.
As for time, I did most of work between academic quarters when i was out on break. The bulk of the work was done in the summer and the remainder was done during fall break between the thanksgiving and xmas holidays. I have since graduated and received a Professional Master of Architecture with a cumulative GPA of 4.0 which also works out to about the average number of hours I slept per night during the term. So trust me my thesis did not suffer because I was fooling around with my car.
As far as the money. I do not have a car loan. I do most of my getting around on foot or on a bicycle which means I buy a tank of diesel once every other month or so. I am not married, and I don't have kids. I own an old duplex and rent out half which pays most of my mortgage. I paid for school with loans. I worked at a firm part time all through school so I had some discretionary income which I chose to spend on my car.
Regarding the turbo, you are spot on. The K14 is way too small. If I am just getting around the city it is no big deal because I am only making boost when I am accelerating from a stop. Granted I am making 15-20 psi on every shift, but it is not sustained for any length of time. On the highway however once I get over 65mph this little hairdryer starts making over 10psi and it gets hot. EGT's at this point are about 600ºF. We are seeing temps over 90ºF here for most of the day this time of year so ambient air temp over the black asphalt on the highway has got to be in the triple digits. My oil temp climbs up to about 250ºF and just stays there and water temp is about 1.5 ticks from the orange on the old VDO temp gauge in the cluster. It all feels a bit too much like a time-bomb to me.
I am thinking if I go to the trouble and expense of changing turbos I am going to switch to a VNT17/22 hybrid and rig up a mechanical vane control borrowing heavily from Andrew Libby's setup. This will no doubt cost me a couple grand, and I just don't have the coin at this point.
For now I am going to trade the oil/water cooler for an oil/air cooler, and see where that gets me. I am also going to try to rig up a two-speed fan and a lower temp fan switch for my radiator. I am also still toying with the idea of building a transmission with a taller ring and pinion and a big 5th gear giving me ostensibly a 1-4 + 6 setup
I will of course document whatever it is I end up doing.
Cheers
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/8cfbd5f0fdb60dc72d821e599d97f428.jpg)
Well I have put 3,000 miles on the AAZ so it was time for an oil change so I figured this would be the best time to attack the oil cooler swap.
I purchased the thermostatic sandwich plate from Summit per Andrew's recommendation.
I had the Volvo oil cooler from a trip to the pick and pull a few years back.
I went to Napa and had them fab some hydraulic lines. Using rubber hoses and clamps seemed a little too fragile to me.
I also ordered hoses to delete the coolant lines running to the stock cooler. I just ordered the hoses for a N/A motor.
The hose that runs from the cylinder head to the water pump is a little short, but it works.
Also the "crack pipe" on the N/A motor is smaller in diameter than the AAZ's. I swapped it back in so I would have one less hole to plug.
The coolant lines were the hardest part. This is largely due to the fact that I put the hoses on the engine when I was assembling it, and as a result the hose clamps were not oriented in a way that made them accessible in the car with the injection pump in place.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/b8e6c273f3c6228dc87c88e080ba2e48.jpg)
The next hiccup I ran into was that I needed to grab the shorter threaded shaft from a motor without the oil/water cooler. Luckily for me I still have my N/A motor handy.
What I removed is on the right. What went in its place is on the left. The hole in the center of the sandwich plate is larger in diameter than the stock cooler. This means you can't bolt it up with the stock threaded shaft and nut. You have to use their adaptor. This also meant a trip to the store to buy a 1-1/8" Deep Socket. Apparently their are still people not using the metric system.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/e9f2fd80055b734a2602ff0bcdbc7bea.jpg)
So here it is in place with the hydraulic lines. The woman who helped me at napa did not have swivels for the male end, so that made installation a bit harder as these lines are very stiff, and will snap back and slap you in the face. Don't ask me how I know :-[
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/9f98c017c2caddf527fa365395c4fe62.jpg)
Here is the other end of the lines. This photo is taken from the drivers side just in front of the wheel. The cooler is mounted underneath the battery. It has a little metal scoop on it to grab some of the air flowing under the car. We will see how well it works.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/41cb8b1f704663efd05f93e13a946f97.jpg)
Here it is again from a lower
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/023f556f6079e9661720663e0d90efa8.jpg)
And looking down on it from the top.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/9bcb9483a23560d3a13f388c1a823566.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/17f5d33e778246419fe241dea2237945.jpg)
I whimped out and took the air filter out of the rain tray and it is 5,000 times quieter. The piping is strapped to the firewall so it will stay in place
In the process I plumbed the hockey puck to the intake with some pricy silicone. I need to get this stuff fabricated when I am finally happy with the setup. I think it will stay this way until I upgrade the turbo. I have installed a new radiator a while back that has an integrated reservoir. This cleans up the bay a bit, and it does not leak like my old one did.
I relocated the fuel filter to the passenger side fender wall so I could have room for the intake.
I also installed the USRT linkage kit for the transmission which replaces all the steel balls and plastic sockets with Heim joints. It is marginally nicer, but it was a total PITA. It required a lot of cutting, drilling, and sanding not to mention I had to adjust the lengths of the rods about 20 times before I had 1st gear again.
Anyway next up is a slim radiator fan or two with an adjustable switch.
cheers.
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Nice work!!!
What is the fitting used on the Volvo oil cooler? I have the same cooler in the Golf, but I made the Volvo sandwich adapter work and I'd rather use the unit that you have. Are the sandwich adapter lines NPT? How much did the hydro lines end up costing you? I need the exact same set I think to work with what I got.
I suppose I could pull the cooler and take it to the shop but I'd rather not try and transport an oil leaking mess if I can get away with it.
Brendan
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Thanks Lord V. The Volvo unit is 1/2" NPT male the Hayden sandwich is 3/8"NPT female so you have to get custom lines fabricated. Too bad cause the northern tool preassembled 3/8" male to male are way cheaper. The swivel ends were the most spendy part. Grand total was $60 for the hydraulic lines!!! small price to pay for peace of mind though considering the time, money, and heart I have put into this build.
I drove it up to Charleston SC last weekend. Oil temps stayed below 220ºF until I got on I95 and started doing 70mph then they were back up in the 250ºF range. I don't think at that speed enough air is getting picked up by the scoop. The good news is that the coolant temp is now 1 tick below center in these same conditions. the core is 4"x11" so I have ordered a Spal 4" puller fan with a 195º thermostat and relay (turns fan on at 195ºF and off at 175ºF. Remember the sandwich plate starts to send oil to the cooler at 160ºF and all of it by 180ºF so they should be a good team) If the single fan does not do the trick I will add a second one they pull about 120 CFM ea. IIRC. Pics and analysis to follow.
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Thanks Jack!
So the Volvo fittings are 1/2" NPT?? Weird, I could have sworn they were something else. Did you take out the "adapter" fitting in the cooler? I'll have to look at mine again and see what I'm dealing with.
250F is pretty hot. I don't think I've seen my temps go above 90C- 194F. Hope you get that sorted out.
Brendan
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I didn't have any adapters on the Volvo unit. I must not have pulled them from the donor. Honestly that was years ago when I was considering turboing my NA motor, and I scarcely remember what I grabbed that day. I mated my new hydraulic lines to male threads that are integral to the unit. They are the 1/2" size. I took both the plate and the cooler to Napa with me to have the lines made just to make sure everything fit. Luckily I had not run it yet so there was no oily mess to deal with.
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How many bolts attach the passenger side engine mount to the engine? Do you think you lost any strength by cutting the bracket in half? Could you just use a gasser bracket along with the aaz ip mount?
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There are still 4 bolts holding it to the side of the block. This is the same number as before, and it makes it pretty much the same as the gasser bracket. I don't think it really lost any strength. I could have used a gasser mount with the aaz ip bracket, but I did not have one and there are not many MKI VW's in the junkyards around here, and by the time I got to that point I wasn't about to wait another week to install the engine to order one.
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wow
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Did you get my longer 068121053 E hose i sent you ?
GB
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Time for an update!
Firstly my SoWo Woes. I had a thread up about it, but I am going to post here with pictures as well. Basically 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the IP to the block backed out and sheared off, but amazingly it was still running!!! I noticed the problem only after having driven the 330 miles from Savannah to Helen. I started the car and it seemed especially clacky so I popped the hood and to my horror I observed my timing belt cover jumping around. Well there's your problem. Sadly the car never made it to the show. It took me a couple days, but I got it buttoned up enough to limp it home, and finish up the repair there. Images follow.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/6cddc617c417951e55c0544343041a65.jpg)
This picture was taken just after I got the pump off. This was my first glimpse at how bad it was. eeek
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/9ceed0181e118dc79a7e686945bc4bf0.jpg)
Obviously what I found behind the bracket. You can see the remains of both of the bottom bolts still in the holes.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/3c31be3bb2eb20358261d57b63d24c4f.jpg)
This is what I was able to recover. One bolt came out easily by cajoling it out with an automatic center punch. The third bolt I tried everything on to no avail, and in the end drilling it out with successively larger bits did the trick.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/ad086e70b85c49d2910e33193e203fd4.jpg)
Here it is with 4 12.9 grade socket cap screws. Each one should take 13kips before yielding. there was another threaded hole in the block 42mm to the left of the bottom right bolt (the one I had to drill). So I drilled a hole in the bracket and put an extra bolt in there for good measure.
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:o Holy crap. I'm wondering what's in there holding mine together now.
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On a happier note I have a more upgrade related bit of work to report.
I was not happy with the performance of the oil cooler set up I had so I made a few modifications.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/b982c6b73031fc2f278b0db9d97c395a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/6b7c95e41ab6707f9b9d9eac12d75982.jpg)
I grabbed a second Spal 4" puller fan off of ebay for a good price, and I built a shroud to hold both of the fans out of a piece of galvanized sheet metal I had lying around. I then hit it with the BBQ black. I am pleased with how it turned out. It fits the Volvo air/oil radiator like a glove.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/7dd66e612948e84d07cc652aa5530499.jpg)
Here is the quick schematic I drew up. I love working stuff out on paper and then building it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/31ae0515bc8d7c3af57a40a86955135e.jpg)
This is from the drivers side looking up from the ground.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/6b4d66c2094794fcef232846f2883b4c.jpg)
From below.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/bc587045106c2a61f5c2f6ef028905ff.jpg)
And a close up of the tee with the sender. It turns the fans on at 195ºF and off at 180ºF.
I have driven it on the highway at 70+mph on 90º+ days and the worst I have seen is 220ºF which is still a little higher than I would like, but a substantial improvement over the previous set up.
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Good idea with the forth IP bracket hole to help secure - I will keep an eye on mine for GP
Between the Volvo air/oil cooler - which BTW is another good idea - and FMIC
which one had the greatest effect in helping keep eng tems down?
Where did you get your dual cone air filter - thats the one in the eng bay now?
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You mentioned taller gearing for the AAZ which HP peaks early compaired to 1.6Ds -
what about putting a 3.67 R&P from very available 2Y trans into a late FF - which came with
3.89 R&P but .71 fith gear??? I was wondering if anyone had tried this for the AAZ - would it
be very difficult to accomplish and what about practicality or viability in useage of such with AAZ?
If it is not too hard to swap out it may be a nice application to try - any coments?
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You mentioned taller gearing for the AAZ which HP peaks early compaired to 1.6Ds -
what about putting a 3.67 R&P from very available 2Y trans into a late FF - which came with
3.89 R&P but .71 fith gear??? I was wondering if anyone had tried this for the AAZ - would it
be very difficult to accomplish and what about practicality or viability in useage of such with AAZ?
If it is not too hard to swap out it may be a nice application to try - any coments?
I simply swapped in the 020 transmission that came with that engine in a Mk 3. It has a 3.67 final drive and a .71 5th gear. It works like a charm.
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Ok - thanks for good idea - what specific tranmission code did you use and what specific engine did it come mated with because here in the US we were more limited to what was shipped and all the Mk3s here came with TDIs/CTN trans - so yes - if you can clue me in as to what and where I could purchase that would be great but I will need to know what to look for! - thanks - OK - I just checked and VW did not make an 020 trans having 3.67 R&P and .71 5th gear? that is why I was thinking maybe they swaped a .71 fith in there - I could tell by know the tranny code - thanks
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D'OH, sorry but it's a .75 5th. Code is DFP, but there are lots here http://scirocco.org/gears/ (http://scirocco.org/gears/)
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peloquin LSD and 16v Internal's
3.67 chd with a .71 from a FF trans
100 mm axles
All bolts arp 12pt and powdercoated trans
If I do it again I will do a 3.42 R&P for 800.00
Vwtransaxles.com did the build
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Amazing project. Hard to believe this thread died. There's so much good info for those of us that plan on an AAZ to Mk1 switch. Several dozen things were pointed out that I didn't realize. After reading parts of it through, several times, I'm still not quite sure how to address the clutch conversion to the 020 tranny. The differences of the flywheel /pressure plate/disc.
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I'm still not quite sure how to address the clutch conversion to the 020 tranny. The differences of the flywheel /pressure plate/disc.
Does not compute? What are you meaning? The stock AAZ clutch will fit in ANY of the previous years 020 transmission. Or vice versa if you have a good clutch on your 1.5,1.6,1.7,1.8,1.9 or 2.0 engine the whole kit and kaboodle will swap over. With regards to 16v stuff, they use a different spline transmission main shaft.. but that too could be remedied with a 16v clutch disk.
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That's good to know. I'm a newb & couldn't find a definitive answer. Thanks
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Thanks. My glib answer to school, time, and money would be coffee and Visa ;), but the next two paragraphs offer a more detailed explanation, because I fear I may have come off as someone who I am not.
As for time, I did most of work between academic quarters when i was out on break. The bulk of the work was done in the summer and the remainder was done during fall break between the thanksgiving and xmas holidays. I have since graduated and received a Professional Master of Architecture with a cumulative GPA of 4.0 which also works out to about the average number of hours I slept per night during the term. So trust me my thesis did not suffer because I was fooling around with my car.
As far as the money. I do not have a car loan. I do most of my getting around on foot or on a bicycle which means I buy a tank of diesel once every other month or so. I am not married, and I don't have kids. I own an old duplex and rent out half which pays most of my mortgage. I paid for school with loans. I worked at a firm part time all through school so I had some discretionary income which I chose to spend on my car.
Regarding the turbo, you are spot on. The K14 is way too small. If I am just getting around the city it is no big deal because I am only making boost when I am accelerating from a stop. Granted I am making 15-20 psi on every shift, but it is not sustained for any length of time. On the highway however once I get over 65mph this little hairdryer starts making over 10psi and it gets hot. EGT's at this point are about 600ºF. We are seeing temps over 90ºF here for most of the day this time of year so ambient air temp over the black asphalt on the highway has got to be in the triple digits. My oil temp climbs up to about 250ºF and just stays there and water temp is about 1.5 ticks from the orange on the old VDO temp gauge in the cluster. It all feels a bit too much like a time-bomb to me.
I am thinking if I go to the trouble and expense of changing turbos I am going to switch to a VNT17/22 hybrid and rig up a mechanical vane control borrowing heavily from Andrew Libby's setup. This will no doubt cost me a couple grand, and I just don't have the coin at this point.
For now I am going to trade the oil/water cooler for an oil/air cooler, and see where that gets me. I am also going to try to rig up a two-speed fan and a lower temp fan switch for my radiator. I am also still toying with the idea of building a transmission with a taller ring and pinion and a big 5th gear giving me ostensibly a 1-4 + 6 setup
I will of course document whatever it is I end up doing.
Cheers
Hey Jack,
I installed a oil cooler but I located the thermal switch at the sandwich plate. This will trigger the fans sooner when the temps go up.
Another thing I discovered was the temp on my gauge was also high. 250 when pulling a bit hard on a cool day. I bought a infrared thermal heat gun and pointed the gun to the fitting at the sandwich plate where the thermal switch is located. The temps were much lower. 195. I have come to believe that the gauge is just not accurate,
I'm also thinking about the VNT for my AAZ. But witch one? VNT15 or 17? And what exhaust manifold is used with that turbo?
Great job on this build. You should post up some results now that you have been driving it a bit.
Tony
http://www.instrumart.com/products/2270/raytek-raynger-st20-infrared-thermometer
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The VNT 15/17 both have their turbine housings integrated into their exhaust manifolds, so the turbo and manifold are one unit. As far as choices, both are good turbos, but the 15 is smaller than the 17 and spools a little faster, but doesn't put out as much boost as a 17 can. The big daddy that folks like to use in higher performance VNT builds is the 17/22 hybrid, a vnt 22 cold side on a 17's hot side. The boost of the 22, the response time of the 17. For a daily, the 15 will be good, but a 17 would be a little better for pushing around the big doka you have.
And unfortunately Jack's last post on this thread is the last he posted on these forums. Haven't heard anything else from his alt account on the vortex, so I assume he's built his car and moved on to other things. Too bad, though; this thread accounts for about 80% of my own build choices for my AAZ too.
Good advice on the mounting of the fan thermocouple, I'll remember that when I set mine up.
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Tony, I just looked at this and remembered that you sent me an e-mail that I meant to reply to. Anyway, I would recommend the 17. The response difference is very slight and the turbo is a fair amount less labored running anything above 15psi or so. On my VNT vanagon builds I have sourced the euro non-integral manifold VNT turbos and then created an adapter to go between the stock K14 AAZ manifold and the VNT. I actually made a jig for the adapters which allows the turbo to be mounted without any interference with anything. Most notably, it doesn't interfere with the stock mounting bracket. I also made it so that the turbo is rotated so the supply and drain are vertical and the turbo is rotated so the exhaust is to the rear of the engine compartment and the intake to the front for easy exhaust routing.
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Thank you CrazyAndy and Libbydiesel. I'll look into the VNT 17. When it comes time to do the adapter, I'll check back in if I have any problems.
No worries about responding to my email Libby.
Thanks
Tony
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Sorry I dropped off of the face of the planet guys. I moved to Maryland, and I haven't had a space or the money to do much with the old VW.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/ca49c0298bd6991db121d8106f281846.jpg)
She did win the POS Beater class this year at H2O if you can believe it! Which now serves as my motivation to try and get her some awards for actually being a nice car.
Also, it is not that obvious in the photo, but I scored some BBS RA's for a song. I absolutely love the look, and the price was about a tenth of what I would have paid for a set of RS's
However in the next couple of weeks I am moving to a place where the rent is half as much, and there is a garage! ;D
I'm planning on finally tearing it down completely and doing paint and body.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/99b0f33cc9f426273a248f401b38fa33.jpg)
Also in other news she is no longer a daily. As I scored a support vehicle for a decent price. Sadly it is not a diesel, but is a 2.0L Turbo.
More to come soon I hope. If I work really quickly I might be able to make some of the shows this season. Maybe not SoWo, which is too bad, because it is my favorite, but H20 should be a reasonable target.
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HE HAS RISEN! :D Welcome back, good to hear from you. Nice A4, too. Love the BBS wheels on the Rabbit.
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Thanks Jerry,
Something about BBS meshies and these cars just fits together like PB&J. It's a truly gestalt assemblage. Fun fact: I got the tires from a MB dealership. They are for a smart car, which take the smallest tires you can find without special ordering federal FD1's from California.
The A4 is pretty awesome. It is a 2008 6spd Quattro, Ibisweiss with a black interior. It have found it nearly impossible to find that combination.
The guy at the stealership said "I thought I was going to have a difficult time selling this thing, I mean, who wants a luxury car with a manual transmission". I put my hand in the air and said "this guy". The crazy thing is that it was a Honda dealer, and a new Civic had the same sticker price! Yes it's used, but it is a lot more car than even a loaded civic. I've actually managed to get 30mpg highway out of the thing, which isn't an impressive number on this site, but the thing does weigh 1500 Lbs. more than the rabbit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/1212052898fcd70dc9b471f93ac893ce.jpg)
The rabbit is officially in the garage, albeit a very small garage. Good thing it is a very small car. This would be easier if I had more room, but I think it is safe to say that I enjoy a challenge.
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Thanks for the FD1 tip. Been thinking about a good tire for the money.
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6-Spd = even more awesome. Is that the 2.0T? I looked for a long time for my 5-spd Passat 4-Mo 1.8T wagon... I almost went for an Allroad, but they're too thirsty for my taste. I've seen 30-35mpg hwy pretty consistently in the Passat.
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Long overdue update:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/30995e73425dbb18a6d8508a4ccb38c0.jpg)
I put up a bunch of T8 fluorescent lights in the garage so I could see what I was doing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/c521e20aa025003e1c6520a7d6593c30.jpg)
I discovered why I lost my clutch! This is the $400+ ACT unit that I installed with the matching 6puck sintered clutch. less than 10K on it and NO racing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/132ae993c77d50595158b8abfaa7cad2.jpg)
I figured It was a good opportunity to clean this guy up, and…
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/a5ee822b0007b9b502b8fb0b9a2be1c7.jpg)
paint it to match the engine
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/5a4e3cc32292fe89b7406a9de25e17d9.jpg)
Next up I decided it was time to open up the grille a little so that I could sneak the oil cooler in behind it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/60a964650187c769ed23e306d5d09a6b.jpg)
Step1: drill a bunch of tiny holes.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/2ec1ea24e79e04158780323a1b3a8a3b.jpg)
Step2 cut between with a tiny cutoff wheel and X-acto as needed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/e7d4196876766822ff8ba644558cf8d7.jpg)
Step 3: File like mad, and then sand
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/44992ae341a0e1b965496f6e84a12a20.jpg)
The finished product. I think it will look pretty stock once I dye it black again, and it is mounted.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/4a5e234e71e0876ed92f50d6c7ed5333.jpg)
Time for this beast to come back out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/e647b465374de2a7fb297342232e76e3.jpg)
Off the mounts and on the ground. Ready to jack the car and slide it out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/3c263a78946c4231806d97b7445047ab.jpg)
Out of the way for now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/030bb1e527e89ec7a11ee84699897798.jpg)
A lot of work remains.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/9beb58d0565b2dcab6feab5978dbe60f.jpg)
Good thing I have my little helper.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/d12706c71a19f13d89991c5ed53c1c58.jpg)
And a new bigger helper ;D
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/e272f25a6445ffed8d029ec0787270fd.jpg)
Powersteering bracket deleted
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/4065877dd5ce6d89df32f0e799e37daa.jpg)
Battery tray deleted. Note the big rust hole to repair
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/2f173af6936b79142f4dfa4b5c6eabb6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/d650b5b2923b6f7e8f921c019089ac45.jpg)
Progress albeit small
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/196029ba314c173782f9f3b1e03d26c3.jpg)
Coolant reservoir bracket deleted
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/fe087edf6c71d0cd7c21ba071befef67.jpg)
Time to attack the interior
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/64f7e4d13c8b92221f14dbbef893c0fd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/222ffa7733b4924de91a758dc71237c7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/64c2034b24b607ad0cf94692d38d4d02.jpg)
Almost all of the rust is surface. I have only found one spot where it rotted through the floorboard, and there was a big rust through in the firewall above, so no surprise.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/15a7a567750284afd46cb0e25e78ebf4.jpg)
A couple of bags full of our worst fears. I have carefully labeled everything. As part of this I am going to tuck the wires as much as possible, and I anticipate that I will be pretty much rebuilding this whole rat's nest.
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Interesting comment on the 6-puck clutch. I had put a 4-puck in mine and hated it from day one. In 3 months, it absolutely destroyed a new flywheel. I put in a new ACT setup with a standard-type disc, and, after 3 years of daily driving, couldn't be happier.
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I have a 6 puck clutchnet in mine and it works pretty good now. Same thing happened to it after a few thousand miles. I called and they redid the diaphragm springs for 0 dollars for me. That is what is in the car and feels almost like a stock clutch now. It wasn't right from day one before. It was an on off switch before, now since the new springs it feels almost normal and it is a great performing clutch.
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Update: Sorry I keep forgetting to take pictures and post. Lots of work is happening though I swear.
The car is disassembled and I have been sanding and shaving the engine bay for what seems like forever. I'm getting close to being able to move on to welding and filling.
This rubbery seam sealer stuff is everywhere and is a pain to get off. I've always had a lot of respect for a clean nicely shaved engine bay, but I honestly had no idea how much work it actually takes. Pics of the progress.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/d55644bba15feddba5defcfe5853c794.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/5d1124ead7c20d143535bfc02fd385cc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/be82ab5c48e52ad1a911b4093ee51071.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/fdd2f2db75cdd02eb3138cecb3d9177c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/0e712817d36bf5ac1abf877edadf8606.jpg)
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I noticed that you ground off the mount for your windshield washer reservoir… Are you going to pull the fluid from the trunk area? Or are you not going to have any washer fluid spray onto the front windshield?
Here's mine:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk164/deepgrooves74/Bucket%20Project/72721E7A-A03D-4DD9-8E3F-AA24F049D0A9_zpsdzuv32pz.jpg)
Just finishing up media blasting last night…
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great build man, i dunno how i missed it all these years
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I noticed that you ground off the mount for your windshield washer reservoir… Are you going to pull the fluid from the trunk area? Or are you not going to have any washer fluid spray onto the front windshield?
Just finishing up media blasting last night…
I haven't decided. I might pull it from the trunk, but first I think I'll just go without it. This car isn't going to daily anymore. It is gonna be sunny sunday / show car. I'm deleting the heat and the blower (gonna hide a small electric unit in the dash), and all the rear wiper, washer, and defog. I'm really going for a more stripped down, clean, simplified go kart. Yours is looking good. I decided to get a cheap media blaster to help me get in all of those pesky little nooks that I can't seem to get to with tools or my fingers.
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DUB LUV 8)
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Much overdue update. Painstaking bodywork continues at a glacial pace. Slow and steady is something any VW owner get's comfortable
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/128164803a92f580f455776103cd505f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/c42fa05ba159e2efc17412588a14bd8f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/f0ade7bf0d2d08be32f26a6474b878c6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/84164b779d7142ce86781ad75127bc6c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/42da84745b8b978d1657a3c2fcb7592d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/a4df8371020c2332bd8bd21c2840eeb6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/d670b08e223f9ef428b73408a2e267d5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/7f213a31612734a3e5a37f4faf00a699.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/dc46dc66bc34ee5529d4c249a2e88f1e.jpg)
The front valence was pretty dinged up. A lot of pulling and filling was required. These images were from months ago. I have dozens more to post. I'm trying to catch up.
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Looking good! Keep at it! I was about to do more on mine yesterday, but then realized I needed to redo the crown molding in the dining room for my wife... There goes the first time in 3 months to work on the rabbit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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On to the rain tray shaving.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/880d35a56d077eb88fd1bc838fee68c9.jpg)
welded a panel in
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/d8f108aadae523222ccd2636a7e60798.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/f03788f9da3ed7c471cfc02ccdad2f3d.jpg)
Then started filling and sanding again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/ee7b8ee9116a6aad92702015bd2322f6.jpg)
There was a nasty hole that rusted through the inner fender, and the firewall. Wasn't an easy place to get fingers to work either.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/f43222e3fb052c2f5cbbf944963e02f2.jpg)
heat delete! No turning back now!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/3ea922b50782aadbccde58c3c80e1012.jpg)
cleaned up inner fender. Wow that was too much work.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/6d652da6e4200788dea8d22cd554643c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/5a7e86e8cd6fc57ecc2a77f5f8673f70.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/130783046dcc641d78b0e41941ab520d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/e661f618027db377ba486d3e40ff6d34.jpg)
Epoxy primed the inner fenders. The first of a lot to come.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/5f96ea009ee0c0afb0dd361b79b40d06.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/7d33f684c46c10130b77b2f1923d73f9.jpg)Engine bay cleaned up and ready for primer.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/af73618aa947f79fec19403e23c6327c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/c773c5c143855c79d0ec4eecee97200a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/2d5ecb61d3e1756d60397aab388ebdcd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/5c6f8de377ac53d078544a75511ae06b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/2c484b254c8637c4c465823f0543fb7e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/7cf755410bb04c3f287d3fa98403dd4c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/1693b1b22587d1cf9063a5f69820364f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/7e64c489d5c1cbc13f7ffbca61b1aec0.jpg)
Freshly primed.
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On to the cowling A-Pillars & Roof.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/9a9ff97040795b6f9378d20ff44ba21e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/39ce52e730c6091203175c6e13bb6fdf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/f2f058cb33554cf5dbac3a53a3ab43c0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/d2d22c856680d0a03e7a516e3ea0ded6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/f1b46949366624ae247359193f0471d1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/4bfb1ba4f1e9b2e6e66551e7b428aab4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/92dd456f182e01c95d69f54a6b9c4423.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/b69ff4ffc251d07fa7e829a5b5df6cd2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/2d88c0c00d9663f70b563b58caa57209.jpg)
Finally sanded! Again more time consuming than expected.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/1ce38947ac8c99e63ddbc8574af5e697.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/2c707b18e0b794cd4db36e32a68a2a57.jpg)
And the payoff. Wet paint action!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/7b916b8c57d75535e03daad425f7ef9c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/5ec3b7f837dcc192bf77ee1a3d2b630c.jpg)
Here it has cured.
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Next up C-pillars and rockers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/24cf148b393554d0b275f8556725ad3b.jpg)
First up shaving the rear repeaters.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/a91898b848e71b151a5ec643937da2d0.jpg)
cleaning up the rocker.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/01642124cc680f92e6a4ff7809da0c5e.jpg)
cleaning up the rear fender wells
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/952f84173991af931874e43d981831e4.jpg)
check out my sweet new wheel ;)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/629ec4729fab36756784f02186af787a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/e8b358fcf2b74b81407c2deae1bf291b.jpg)
getting the passenger side C ready for paint
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/f8b401fbac550fd9c57ef1a8d7b7cdda.jpg)
here is the only major floor board issue that I found. It was directly under the hole in the firewall/raintray. A real "there's yer problem moment.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/03ba462bb4af88517e3e08e091254062.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/76b571f416cb648f184164024a80115f.jpg)
There was a fair amount of cancer in front of and behind both rear fender wells.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/8cd53edf826b04fc7a5a14e7b0af0e60.jpg)
There was also some black waterproofing gunk applied all around the car. I wonder if the previous owner did this, or something offered by the stealership. You're gonna want that true-coat!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/9b0d0beb12fa2731065abc5e8ad9574a.jpg)
Filling the dents. Apparently quite a few people opened doors into me.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/b2a6a310390ed54821f8571320dc7a9e.jpg)
filled the trim holes and smoothed the panel seam below
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/94557847315df0d78681cb663c85043a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/08c7635b37696ec7d2a0d0b7d16f3cda.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/7d35e5fbcbf9e1f86d9222c29d254dcc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/4c4f3811c3d02669beb7f99f3f8c51d8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/f75fda360eae108344040acfeff8ab6e.jpg)
grabbed some gas piston hood openers, so went ahead and deleted the brackets for the old stick. I'm gonna miss that stick. We spent a lot of time together over the years.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/7ebfa0b34bf33dfd3c1eb239536a874d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/18f3f012350373e9dc0cb92a9eb3ed7e.jpg)
primer gray potential is finally setting in.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/1be1030e4783f1fdba0218d5e52b9d77.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/55118195cca9a0a808a7d9bcd1da55ed.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/8559c479ae31bd159d3fd2400e948e8f.jpg)
On to the driver's side. Sand fill repeat. I can hear the air compressor droning away in my dreams.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/37418576f632ee6633c9ecebbcf195f0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/53388eea1376286986422dda71b3b1b5.jpg)
and more cured primer
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/6e19b7974253ca7c13e936dae206f63b.jpg)
On to the back
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/1dfa6c376eb4b81daffd33b8d526421b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/ed7ad33d6b8b7cc8e3887a6a703bf443.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/2967e33839a3e602768f14b9f6500af4.jpg)
had some real issues behind the wheel wells. Especially at the exhaust cut out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/753d6b2c2db297e037bc3d6f61ae5a36.jpg)
stitched in a panel. Clearly I am yet to become an expert. I am thankful for kevlar strand body filler.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/879989875fb7bd5b08cfb20e20180f2e.jpg)
Started the POR 15 in the spare tire well. Found a couple more rust holes to weld before finishing up, hence the unpainted spots.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/9e188b8f82e0510080d43360df8c72aa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/dee361b2376be114d13b851c510be5c8.jpg)
Lightweight fill ready to sand. I have since sanded it and will prime tomorrow after work if all goes well. Then it's on to doors and fenders. There is a light at the end of the tunnel, but it is still faint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/b967a25c360a2e93b83014642ff97a1e.png)
also in other news I scored a little piece of Unobtainium!
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Oh my gosh, look at her butt!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/dda56573bb0b77bd1e9311bf0784afb9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/2426582cdb01d3ed9e3fd06bea67a78c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/c50bdb9d896a5d2d684abc8143a48715.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/7f0ec7040d23a09bc5017ee6155e72c1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/72d114513c2d379733a9f8bd5e8bb2e8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/12e8be948b41cd340181e0bb9b4213bf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/801ab71dae875fc1586286704c08ae5c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/5b998f53f8c02e179e9cc7f3c8f08716.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/758874297bc477135ddabd55e5781938.jpg)
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Spent 4 hours stripping the paint off of the outside of one of the doors.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/bf0ce2e6a09806454beb13bfff072770.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/c1347d2c3d6450ce86d10f455a311597.jpg)
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Lots of work. Very impressive.
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Put in another 2:30 today. Sanded the door with 80grit. Pulled a dent and welded some pin holes in the bottom aft corner.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/92b9f896d9a5388c069848181a69aff8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/1443320e28ffffe0258253708d2b951f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/d333bc2a79400c9a95031ec01a1a3720.jpg)
Finished up the evening with some Everglass filler (not pictured). A couple more hours and this one will be ready to prime. I will tackle the jamb and interior of the door at a later pass, but regardless this has been the quickest panel by far.
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320 grit sanded here and ready for paint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/e2686d6748fe9371702a462b275eeeff.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/d7387a2436fc594d73fa7748821aa8a8.jpg)
Und mit primer
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/875095cd75e26a8c65bae12dd769eeff.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/39a646e652876405abf74c9258cb8f68.jpg)
The gloss of the wet paint highlighted a couple more little dings. I'll catch them in the next round.
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Today's progress
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/c6eda5127c854fbad33ffc47d120666e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/97f93f1bf0d5bd0f9953cd9f49f10821.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/cc97b56b2afecef580c01d0fe0fa069e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/b85d5745e95d5f9d887caa2a1eeed220.jpg)
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Sanded to 320
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/eb6959dbcd0d1b35380e070b5d9106ef.jpg)
Primered
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/b19345ef2190f8516d529916801f2ce9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/583a2e3f8d58a9e4e78b1f36266e2185.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/9a6a232ebf56921aaf6ab9e93979c294.jpg)
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On to the next door. The passenger doors were not this car's good side. I found some evidence of previous repairs and a really large dent. It took quite a bit of filling and blocking to get it smooth. This was the most difficult panel yet.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/098312c69873380d29f5901d58316794.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/58570cbc2a6151eab33f960d492f989e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/af62c7f6308fea0f2d31244287d039fd.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/e28ae571f86394369989c6211310827f.jpg)
got the dents at the aft of the passenger door as flat as I could with a hammer, dolly, and slide hammer.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/c2d7d0eee5e47012ca2c2a4286194dea.jpg)
And with the everglass filler. Hopefully I can carve out some time to block it and move on to lightweight filler this week.
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Again, very impressive. Thanks for sharing.
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Someone with a lot of dedication and time to do the kind of work we all would like to do but are too busy with our engines all the time.
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Thanks for the encouraging words. I think that I started down this road grossly underestimating how much time it would actually take. At this point I'm just taking it one panel at a time.
Regarding the current panel, I was hoping to prime it today, but the dent needed yet alas at least one more layer of rage gold was required.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/ea9c0dd1765606c06b1112f1de17dfa5.jpg)
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Finished filling
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/95625f1e67a0647e36e47cbd268343c8.jpg)
And primed the last door tonight. It's not perfect, but it is a lot better. The panel alignment between the two doors is still a bit off. Hopefully I can get it a little closer by adjusting the hinges.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/5f65dded79150053abd41150ad740047.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/ec5db56eabb9a6cb8c3a97ccbaa25d3a.jpg)
The fenders, hood, and hatch lid remain. I also need to tackle the interior, including the jambs, and the exposed interior portions of the door.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/10713a5c275bcace59cd5dcf7c6cf9ce.jpg)
Finished sanding the underside of the hood. There was plenty of my favorite seam sealer to clean up in here too.
And primed. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/9fd46a543115d18d21b763982dc650a3.jpg)
The word sisyphean comes to mind.
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At least it wasn't for all eternity
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Holy crap cakes batman! Glad to see that the work continues
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been following your recent work, love what i see, real nice, it ll be worth the work. i was thinking for one thing, when i get to bare metal, i like to use that 301solution, even if in some situations you get most of the rust off, or you get down to bare metal, mix301 properly, i put in spray bottle, and dose to all metal, after washing off, metal now has rust-resistance, light,small amounts of rust are usually neutralized. another thing the solution does, as i hear, is help the 1st coat of paint(primer) to adhere to metal.
another thing i was thinking, undercoating,rust-proofing/sealing,&sound deadening. the doors, inside, take some, the sound deadening helps there alot. keeps the doors from rattling and carrying road, and metallic sounds. one my one mk2 the sound, fire resist cloth under hood was coming apart, took it off, lot of difference in sound there. just in doors when you finish(if you proof,etc)make sure drains are cleared. the undercarriage has special difficulties, from under fenders, down floor(s), trunk, etc, has to be able to resist, weather, and take a bad beating for as many years as you can get out of it, check and work on it, reapply, periodically. when you get to the end of rear floors to trunk is an especially difficult area to get it all. inside the floors is also quite difficult, being they are down, anything, &water will just sit there. the factory rubber coating,sealant, after so many years,; in mine after ooh, 20years, 25years whatever, a good layer of moisture just sits under the coating. then again it appears the factory from bare metal applied this rubber coating, so anything(water)that gets under coating, well, ive had some work vs.rust, at times. this coating after these years, for me, will just, with a little start, peel off. so something here that adheres to next layer, for you it looks like paint, and keep moisture from getting inbetween. of course here, and undercarriage sound deadening is very pleasing. the sound deadening smooths ride noises, also loud engine noises, body creaking, noises, etc, and can keep your cabin pleasing, not being annoying for people, not getting headaches, etc, keeping noises where you can be social, and not fatiguing driver and passengers. when i took up the rugs(in my older), there is, under the carpet, those particle,board pads, by the time i got there, they about came apart coming out, just thru them away.
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All the places where moisture got trapped and caused rust have become apparent as I've progressed. I'm going to use POR 15 on the entire floor, and I definitely intend to use Dynamat to deaden the sound. I don't suspect that this will ever be a quiet car, but it would be nice to be able to carry on a conversation once in awhile. I have been using a DTM epoxy primer as a first coat. Adhesion hasn't been an issue. My biggest challenge has been water drops in the compressed air. Guess I'm going to have to throw some money at that before I move on to finish coats.
The long cold winter is over so now it's update time. No heat or insulation in the garage makes it an unpleasant place to be when it is anywhere south of 50 degrees.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/6c86a2b81b11c2ad1760e4b39bf10790.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/2e8609b820b60bc39e8f401c04436ca6.jpg)
Top of the hood sanded.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/da05a921339473ba6e09b8d60f34a5f1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/7bf5dce5a09e2b2d11a066608da244fa.jpg)
And primed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/83acd41de8cdcfb4ea2e01b4c5c81fc5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/7c99a613cbd94338dac272dfee6d4563.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/aa528ac26df6820ba932c83107df8873.jpg)
Hatch sanded, shaved, and rust repaired
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/324684d7971cd8757d94a386e4723e0a.jpg)
And primed. The inside of the hatch is next and then onto the fenders. I have those cheap rabbit parts reproductions and I'm not confident that I can beat them into shape.
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For sure buy a water separator before you move on to Base Coat and Clear coat if you are going that way. There is nothing that makes one's heart sink faster then a nearly finished panel with water drops on it.
Do you have a second gun to use that has the proper nozzle size for your paint? Generally the primer uses a larger diameter opening than the final paint as it is thicker most times. Especially primer/surfacer type.
Rather than hang your parts and risk runs can you set them up on some type of sawhorses with a panel of wood between them? Painting a panel that is laying down is so much easier and you can control runs better that way. I know you are pressed for working space, I can totally relate there. I have even resorted to building a small spray booth of thicker mil plastic and 2 by 2 lumber just to keep the dust off my stuff. We get a lot of dicier winds that come from everywhere due to the tall trees around the place. I can never count on a calm day.
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I have an air/water separator, but the housing is cracked so I think it isn't working properly. Also I have been reading and I think my big problem is that I just hooked it up with a hose. I am going to do a proper hard line setup with risers and add a desiccant drier before moving on to base and clear. I just need to save up some coin as I spent all my car money on baseball tickets these last couple months.
I don't have a second gun, but It does have two tips, and I am using the larger primer one. Runs haven't been an issue yet, but that might be more of a problem with color and clear. I think I can find a way to lay these panels flat in the garage.
Now for progress.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/6a3bc71051592f21a233fec79981087b.jpg)
Got the inside of the hatch sanded
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/1bb3c20cd0185e7ab1f84abffad379ba.jpg)
And primed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/58672c8efef05eeeb75ed8dad7b5e383.jpg)
I also touched up the remainder of the underside of the hood.
I have those cheap rabbit parts Italian fenders and the fabrication and fit is horrible. I figured out that I needed to trim a chunk of metal from the bottom aft end of the panel where it bolts to the unibody below the A pillar and wraps under the rocker. I'm also welding the seams that were just folded over and half crimped and left open. I'm gaining hope that with a bit more effort I'll be able to get these to work. I wish OEM fenders were easier to find.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/2da5f20aa1cefec7b673db2e105a77a6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/1b6ad180cc98f493e899376d9d85eb9e.jpg)
More soon.
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Made progress on the fenders. I welded the seams and fixed a few other issues. The inside of the passenger side one is primed
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/c63211b1a43484f0a76bda4e73e5db58.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/02ad9dd9933d9bfd36265705d9970ea8.jpg)
The inside of the driver fender is ready for paint as of tonight.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/469dcf26321cd8e87bfbb7043b07ccb2.jpg)
And the passenger is getting fit pretty well to the car. I'm sanding it and getting it ready for primer next. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/44e6a0d5de9077d4589c61c9d176901a.jpg)
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Got the inside of the driver fender primed tonight.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/aa460fbe426227195a85b1ef6d9cbc2a.jpg)
Sanded the passenger fender and wasn't happy with the shape. Started filling little low spots and it looks like I just need to hit the whole thing with lightweight and block it now. That's what I'll get started on Thursday night.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/86d946d81e467a53fabee8e41b084972.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/44fecd6ad2da57d4469bb8de6e2265a0.jpg)
Got about 90 minutes in this evening before heading off to band practice, and made some progress blocking the fender. I should get to spend 3 hours or so on it tomorrow evening.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/18b0058e559ef8c9e22c43aba5bb7109.jpg)
Finished blocking and sanded to 300 and
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/34e26ef07a3d50a3f095eeff614513e7.jpg)
Hit it with primer. Only the outside of the driver side fender remains then the exterior of the car is done.
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Almost there! The amount of work you have done is astounding.
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Almost there! The amount of work you have done is astounding.
Thank you for the kind words. I'm beginning to feel accomplished. I can't wait to spray color, but I'm hoping that all this extra work pays off with stunning results.
Got a little closer today.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/f6cde189a53e800da3208240056defe5.jpg)
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I have found that if I do the prep work with exquisite detail as you have done I never regret the final look of the color. If I scrimp or get in a hurry on the prep I ALWAYS find fault in the final product.
So invest early with the effort and it will pay you back with dividends once it is all done.
I can't believe those body panels are so dented in. Could be small dents that just take a lot of filler to smooth out so they are not noticeable.
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Finished blocking the last panel tonight
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/8fa340a00c62fa861c55bc5f0b0f508d.jpg)
And hit it with primer.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/d1b65cc41ec5c4ffcf55691215152375.jpg)
Next up is the interior, which obviously won't require quite the same level of attention, and a quick wet sanding of the exterior, and then hit it with high-build primer aka spray on filler, then guide coat and block like mad.
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Made some progress on the trunk floor tonight. There are a few small rust holes to weld up, then I'm gonna start working my way forward with POR 15.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/d46024f64ce55c4d1fef992db92b13ef.jpg)
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Tonight's progress
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/0e333b9cb7a2260f04725bd204415860.jpg)
Finished cleaning up the trunk floor
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/6923cd839f648f3c56cc4adf46f78f1b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/fe4225e355a60742f792272bf96694f5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/876d5131090298270d18bd1a1d94202f.jpg)
And painted it with POR 15.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/c52d4e33398e5f3b02973c3608193e08.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/34e05c611dd76b39f736b6e0279e5741.jpg)
I cleaned up the floor below the back seat. I had a mess of rust to clean up on the passenger side between the wheel well and the door.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/3e6addb3a966d3f5e6f0b2767537ccd3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/66f0d8157a460f2e1f3929130c6f5da4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/6de76bbea9a21a04938e2c51a22fe272.jpg)
Painted with POR 15.
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What are you using to remove the paint and rust prior to painting? A wire wheel on a drill?
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What are you using to remove the paint and rust prior to painting? A wire wheel on a drill?
I tried the wire wheel initially, but it was basically useless. The rubber seam sealer and the carpet glue are just too stubborn for it. The carpet glue is especially a nuisance. If you get it hot, you can move it around, but when it cools it's back to being just as sticky as before.
I have been using one of these in a die grinder to some greater degree of success.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/5a85496ea050890963417271003e4e16.jpg)
I then follow up with those 2" coarse brown scotchbrite like disks to get in the tight spots and then do a quick 80 grit sand with the random orbit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/e9647f8e0c34a9b50e1bfef5e44e818e.jpg)
The rear passenger floor pan area is what two hours with the above wheel gets. I'd get more done if I had a bigger air compressor. I'd say I get about a 50% duty cycle with the die grinder.
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Thanks for the info. I think I have some of the same to be doing on a Caddy I just hauled home last week.
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Thanks for the info. I think I have some of the same to be doing on a Caddy I just hauled home last week.
No problem, and happy sanding. A (I assume diesel) caddy! That's a nice find!
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Made more progress tonight.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/e55268c43e64261e9b9fede8b9e24ac2.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/a830794dca6a580a2033e92bcda5072b.jpg)
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Jack,s lack this should answer you question.
http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,37009.0.html
Honestly are there any others worth having?
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Jack,s lack this should answer you question.
http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,37009.0.html
Honestly are there any others worth having?
Very nice! I'd be jealous of the deal you got, but clearly I have my hands full. I'm looking forward to seeing it progress.
But to answer your question, even if it comes with a gasser, you can always swap a diesel in. Caddys are rare enough around here that they are all worth good money.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/24e9dd42fdfa2956a54fe55a57bed3fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/536ad04893c7504d084313cd66c75ba1.jpg)
Tonight's activity.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/e2f5116a90b2df8bc08e255e9da6ded7.jpg)
Uncovered this rust hole. Should be easy enough to patch.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/04630f676d68d40ce36ffd4cb663f83a.jpg)
Got the next section cleaned up
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/f256db5a8caadbacd65e29d03d5ed8ba.jpg)
and painted.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/74fe2589f8723b1a5e0d0d85a9533b33.jpg)
close-up of the rust repair.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/628bf2e9aeb4a53707aa8e75412fb230.jpg)
started on the driver's floor pan tonight. There are a couple of rust holes to repair, but they are difficult to make out in the photo.
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photobucket is so greedy, you can barely use their website or app because of all the advertisements and now they want to charge for third party hosting when there are a million other sites who will host for free.
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Phuckobucket. What a dick move... I'd rather pound screws into my toes than give them any money... ever.
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recently all these photobucket format pics and videos have gone down, gotta love them, also gotta love how photobucket wants/gets access to like your whole harddrive info, for pics&videos, and all you want to do is upload 1 or 2 pics for format to post on site. real scam/hack site. dont they like have access to your personal info/account, photobucket? and all that personal info is just waiting to be hacked, evidenced by all the scam ads in acct.
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they've ruined a lot of great info out on the net, what a shame. They used to be the best too, I can't imagine that they weren't already making plenty of money from the advertising, and now they can die a slow death as everyone turns to their free competitors.
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Flickr is a good free alternative. Works fine with forums, will spit out bbcode...
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Needless to say this Photobucket thing has me pretty irritated. It is going to take me time to re-link all of my photos. I'm not about to pay $400 to Photobucket. That would buy me 2 gallons of showcar clear or 2 more isspro gauges. I tried Imgur, and Flickr, but neither will give me a direct link or Bbcode via the app. This is very frustrating.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/d7263166e0a1c677ef6e1e5a3c6a2113.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/ef90b85ea60acc6844612533d20a4468.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/650e6e9b05c0b331aa951632ac007465.jpg)
Progress Report! The floor under the drivers seat was bad. When I went to weld the little pinholes, the surrounding metal deteriorated. It took quite a bit of effort to get it stitched up, but it's done. In hindsight, I probably should have just replaced the panel.
Okay, figured out how to get bbcode from Imgur. You have to open the webpage in a web browser, which is also annoying because it keeps trying to open the app. It's not ideal, but it's workable.
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If you're posting mostly from your phone just insert the images with Tapatalk directly! No hassle! It takes care of everything.
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Milestone reached. Finished the interior side of the floor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/35553ec49eeb370e7d74eba4adb527b5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/3dfa0cbd76dcdd7152edd5b2ff19ec0b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/da160ed7bff9cd27a28cedcac0e7d124.jpg)
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If you're posting mostly from your phone just insert the images with Tapatalk directly! No hassle! It takes care of everything.
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Thank you so much! I don't know why I didn't think to try that. This is so much easier!
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Got in a solid 8 hours in the garage today. I started prepping the interior for primer beginning at the rear.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/b9699a1851499b225f7120f03af50c10.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170717/2a80da2105729d52f200aa71ac8ef74c.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/e1a600af391a5dff9948e3875942f69f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170718/467fe002ad83f5669d0e7c701a2d1315.jpg)
I finished sanding and hit the trunk interior with primer tonight. Inside of the firewall is next.
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Finished sanding the inside of the firewall
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170725/d4eb30e03e1b9b7be8e292646996055e.jpg)
And painted it with POR 15
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170725/750302e69672ee3458728c8aa5a37b20.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/fed5b0baa6bc8f70764b19322c2c048e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/9b07f2037d0eb00470e9d13dd72fee88.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/c6b6d92b98fee06b22d565db6e5883aa.jpg)
A & B pillars are primed. The inside of the roof and the doors remain.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/24f32580fb091866209c005bab6cffeb.png)
Check this info out
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Awesome build thread man! I am definitely following this one! Great motivation for my own build. Keep it up!
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I got the underside of the roof sanded and painted with primer awhile back. It's not that exciting, but here goes (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/2ec12e627e707e19d0aba6774facf940.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/9da0478bfbe0ead16b260b42ff5be782.jpg)
Today I finished sanding the interior and jamb of the passenger rear door. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/3d8fdd7c9edb0247b68fb67d7b8848f9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/940e0a69c703004042b6e283e36207ff.jpg)
And painted it with primer. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/8e6fc8f83f7c3fc4abdbc88db5dd7d99.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/549ccd67d5c510bd6e6f7712b8a2b7be.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170903/783be2dbfc3f5a54c135662b3bf4a2eb.jpg)
The passenger front is up next.
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You should spend 15 mins on that fan cleaning it up, it would love to move more air for you if you did.
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The entire garage could use a cleaning, but the king of fans is still blowing strong.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170917/354b08bcbb0e39b9de46d2a3d8e398af.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170917/06228c44d1fb573df47aac6ca1efc373.jpg)
I finished sanding the inside of the passenger door and got it primed today. 2 down, 2 to go.
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This is giving me crazy ideas to go weld up all the holes in the caddy sitting in my cousin's field :)
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Got the drivers door painted. One more to go!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171105/1cda0fc95547d60ee7883949a282df8d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171105/22427ec0b0c6cf140323bb464c9cb6b7.jpg)
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Getting closer on the last door. I️ just need it back above 40 for a few days to get it primed. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171112/bcd3fb2ed2e74d91280f7e000b2c5f55.jpg)
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With the NE getting a new cold front coming this weekend I don't think you will be spraying for awhile. But what has been done so far is just fantastic. Keep going when the weather lets up.
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Thanks for the encouragement! It was a bit warmer tonight, and I managed to get the last door primed. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/bbdb6ba058c8312966832be79e659c38.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/d8f95923d17f6c79bbd98099b9b34eba.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/d2f62d24c92b49bca5c4a1854646bee2.jpg)
There is almost no trace of the diamond silver metallic left. I started cleaning up the under carriage. I’m glad that this phase is nearly over and I’m looking forward to getting on to the blocking.
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Looking really good man! Little here, little there. Keep it up! Enjoying the updates!
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Winter and professional obligations aside, I’m back at my favorite hobby. I have continued to work on the undercarriage, and tonight I got the first coat of POR 15 on the fore section. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180802/ed97aff85f3da30437f49b338b290ab4.jpg)
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We will all be driving our rust buckets to your door shortly.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180807/9008a7fbbb9635a177c94943567e3e24.jpg)
It’s not all good news. There is substantial rust damage above where the swing arm bolts to the passenger side. I’m just gonna take repair one step at a time. I doubt i could make it worse. On the plus side, this explains the crazy shim I had to make to get this tire to align.
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Oooo, that's some ugliness. I'm sure you will get it sorted better than ever, though.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180821/1b440dfc2952a10cc2ecd690f73bf65b.jpg)
I’ve made some progress with the repair. I cut out the worst rectilinear area of the underlying tube support and welded in a 16 gauge plate and then ground it smooth. What remains of the light gauge unibody metal that wrapped it is still a mess. I am debating patching it with another 16 gauge plate to add some strength. I can blend it back in without making it too ugly. No one will ever be able to see it anyway.
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I’ve made significant progress recently, but haven’t posted because the Tapatalk app wasn’t ready for the new iPhone. Seems that has been addressed with the new update so here goes:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/5cbd1d360a5675dc3af1ee11c37fb358.jpg)
I finished the repairs on the frame rail.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/d093323796e11e86b75c113dbd85ec08.jpg)
Then I finished removing the rubberized waterproofing from the undercarriage. There is still some in the photo, but I have since removed the remainder.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/bef4ba9ccd9fe278d5e922797d102121.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/018cef4b2d058cbf44cf4e793675ff62.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181021/a6f445e48485b214dc205118e1ff0927.jpg)
Then I painted the remainder of the undercarriage with POR15.
I have since cleaned the car and started with the high-build primer filler. I am using Evercoat Superbuild 4:1. This stuff is way harder to work with than any paint I have ever used. Firstly, it is incredibly thick, and very sticky. It smells just like polyester resin like body filler. It had settled so much that it took me 90 minutes to stir it up. I have since bought one of those mixers that goes on a drill. The directions said that you can clean it with acetone, but this was not the case. I have since purchased a gallon of lacquer thinner. You can’t just throw a little in the mixing cup and wipe it out with a shop towel. I am going through shop towels at a record pace. Also with a 4:1 the little 8oz mixing cup only makes 5oz of paint, which does not get very far, so I grabbed a quart size that will mix 20oz a batch. So far I have only hit the front inner fenders and valance. I have been super busy at work and haven’t had time to sneak a few hours for garage time in the last couple weeks, but I am excited to post progress when I do.
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The Great Work continues. On that primer, do you find that you have to have a large tip opening on the gun to spray it or do you thin it down more than recommended to get it to come out and lay flat. I was trying to use a 1.5 mm tip with some primer/surfacer and never got the mixture right to suit my environment. Which is cold and foggy today. Other times I tried where it was super hot, 98, and dry. I just couldn't correct with the reducer at hand.
I now own a better HVLP gun capable of painting latex paint, a 2.5 mm tip. If that doesn't handle the thicker paint I don't know what to use. Mabe a roller and then just sand it more?
NOT
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I have been using the primer tip 1.8, which is at the thinner end of what is recommended for the high-build I’m using. I imagine it would lay flatter with a larger tip, but I’m not that worried since I’m going to be blocking the whole thing anyway.
I got 20oz more laid down tonight. Here is a picture of the progress. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181030/6590c188ffa678aba4a9fc52dbaf4fc8.jpg)
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Yeah, that is where I would want to be with my Caddy right about now. But summer came and summer went and Autumn followed. Still no sanding or painting done. No roof replaced on the house either. I need to do a better job of prioritizing MY TIME next summer.
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Its gotta stink to stick! I sprayed the roof and the C-pillars to the body line tonight.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/4d027493511f9579df72b37a05bf3db4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/8a07c1e1a3ff7e2d9ac127e71771bf03.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/3e71d5700dae54822bd4d4239ebceade.jpg)
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And the passenger side. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181102/1be2aad77c897f85315bc9e98d4715da.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181102/8126ae83e885d942059ff9d444b63c8d.jpg)It was a lot warmer last night and the primer set up much faster. I ended up losing about 1/3 of what I mixed up and then lost an extra hour cleaning the gun. The learning experience continues!
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