VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: monst on March 08, 2014, 07:42:53 am
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:o
Yupper... It's leaking now and can't be ignored...
So I got to deal with it.
It is leaking at the last seal next to the
(best way I can describe it) the fuel lines - distributor....
It looks like maybe four torx hold that section onto pump...
As for the way it is running, it still runs ok... despite a
constant drip. (which will fill a 1/2 pint pretty quick 8oz. appx. .25liter)
I would like to go at it myself and just replace that one seal....
anyone know the part number of that seal... and what
mysteries :-X :-X lie there..
(like what is going popout and spill all over the floor when
I remove the fuel distributor from the pump)
I would rather use a Viton seal.......
* Now if this is something that hasn't been undergone
what are places to get it rebuilt... I live in the northeast
and (looking for a quick turn around.. I need the car running)
Someone near me was saying something of a place in
Connecticut... He got a Kuboda inj. pump rebuilt....there
He couldn't remember the name (had in the name: Diagnostics) at
the end of the name. prices were very reasonable.
So that is all I can think..
Thanks , Micky
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The resealing of these pumps has been discussed SO MANY times here.
There is a search function up there in the top right corner. It works.
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http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5311&start=22
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=33164.msg309635#msg309635
Buy the complete seal kit, you are going to need it anyways within the next year. You really should do all the seals while you are at it.
Personally I would never attempt doing this seal with the pump installed in the car. I know others have with success, but knowing what is behind those 4 innocent looking screws is enough for me to take the pump off and do it on the bench. Plus being in the NE things are going to be a lot rustier than what most people from the south expect.
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As someone who is looking forward to resealing a pump in the near future. While doing it on the car is possible, it is not worth the risk. Plus you will more than likely need to replace all the seals anyway. My pump has now started to leak from the top in addition to the head and the cold start lever.
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There are a bunch of things you could screw up inside the pump, on-car there are only 2 or 3 and it is a whole lot faster.
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There are a bunch of things you could screw up inside the pump, on-car there are only 2 or 3 and it is a whole lot faster.
True, but doing the big ring in-car, almost any screwup is game-over.
On the bench, most common screwup is the throttle lever - easy fix. Plus, easy to do the other common leakers and a gov-mod.
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As someone who is looking forward to resealing a pump in the near future. While doing it on the car is possible, it is not worth the risk. Plus you will more than likely need to replace all the seals anyway. My pump has now started to leak from the top in addition to the head and the cold start lever.
Ditto, this happened to me once and never again. Every pump that works that I want to drive that has a tight mainshaft, I break down to clean and reseal.
Its just not worth doing this again. If one seal is leaking, others are crusty and fused in place and it will be a matter of time before you yank it again.
Use pump lock pin and clamp each sprocket area to the belt so it won't jump teeth. Pull the pump and break it all down and reseal. Feed pump back on the same way with keyway and it will pull itself back into place. Then all you have to do is time it.
A vise and ability to use and make simple tools is all you need. Some parts should be marked in relation to each other, I like to use nail polish.
If worried about it there is a guy on ebay that sells a video so you can pause step by step.
You could easily do the whole job and have your car back running in a day. And I did my first one a few years ago, now its easy.
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Thanks...
Appreciate the insight.....
I will look at the possibility of the vid.... on eeb...
It is possible to get a seal kit... that is
VITON...... bio friendly seals?
Micky
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/GASKET-KIT-SEAL-KIT-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-VE-Injection-Pump-Diesel-/151247071353?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2337072879&vxp=mtr
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Yeah,
Thanks on the link here.
I got my seals the other day...
Going to work on it today.
got to get the pump out.
Monst
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Use a sharp scribe to mark every arm you remove in relation to its shaft. That way you wont go wrong by more than one spline.
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Use a sharp scribe to mark every arm you remove in relation to its shaft. That way you wont go wrong by more than one spline.
This sounds like a good idea.
Also, the trick that amateur watchmakers use is to take a picture with a digital camera every time a part is removed or reoriented.
I got through my first half dozen movements that way. Now i just recognize where the parts go. One train is somewhat like another.
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Thanks on the tips....
So I replaced the seal at the hydraulic head.....
slapped it back in... I decided not to delve in
too deep. Too many projects going at once,
Anyway, pump was out of car for a good day.
My question is this, How long does it take to
crank a dry pump to get the vehicle started.
And is there a bleeder on the ip?
Micky
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Some of us fill the pump through the out bolt and then put the bolt back in place. Some just put suction on a line at the out line and pull fuel through till they get the pump full. It will take more cranking than you want to do on a battery to fill an empty pump.
I use a big syringe made for mixing 2 cycle oil to the proper ratios. A bit of clear line and I just have to remove the line at the needle point and rest and pull again.
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I installed a 12 volt diesel lift pump purchased at the FLAPS. About six fairly short cranks with the injector nuts backed off and it lit. Pump was rebuilt and empty.
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So I ended pulling the pump again......
It just seemed to be taking too long....
I even did the gravity thing....
took an old empty gear oil bottle
and zip tied it upside down to the
hood support and then ran a hose
down to the ip over night....
this got a quart into the ip....
so
then I ran it out of a pail... and
the return was looking pretty good
I mean yeah there were still air bubbles
but fuel was passing on through for sure...
It was just that the fuel was not coming out
the Hydraulic head to the injectors......
I was dribbling like and ol' manz..........
nothing significant was getting to injectors...
very minimal if any...........
What do you think?.... Could it really
take that long.....
I mean I have run out of fuel... and
car has died..... poured fuel in......
and you know it took a bit... but it started
up......... So what is the difference here?
So I pulled it again... to check and see
if the parts where positioned behind the
hydraulic head..... ANd now I will
slap it back in........
Very interested in some perceptions....
THanks, Micky
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If you have open ended fuel lines the fuel will drib out due to the small quantity involved. Try putting lies in upside down with injectors pointing towards the sky.
Or easier perhaps, is to measure the fuel from one/each fuel line for 10 seconds of cranking...
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So I had a nice hand siphon pump today....
I stuck it on the return side of the the fuel
filter.... I drew through the injection pump about
5 litres of fluid.... I even sucked a quart
of ATF through the IP.
MY PROBLEM: It still does not have any diesel
in the lines going to the injectors.
Cranked it over quite a bit.....
So while running the hand siphon,
the return line will go clear ()meaning
no air bubbles. Then we'd crank it for
a while(20 seconds) and then it would
have air in the return after cranking.... There would
never be air on the inlet side(no air going into IP just fuel)....
So I am confused as to why the
hydraulic head is not sending fuel into the injector lines.
We replaced the o-ring on the hydraulic
head because the IP leaked but, car ran ok even though it leaked...
I even checked to make sure that it was put back together.
It is back together ok(no sprung parts in the hydraulic head).
ANy IDeAs?????????
I there a special bleeder on the IP.... ??????
I am at a loss here..... :P :( :-\
ThNKS, mICKY
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Are you 105% sure that the stop solenoid is functioning? Rare that it failed right at that time.. but I have seen wackier.
Verify the solenoid is working as intended. Sucked in with power, let out with no 12v.
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Reassemble fuel lines, and then slacken the timing bolt. Then crank and observe. If you do not get spraying of the diesel, out of the threads, then either solenoid is stuck closed or piston is snapped off.
Test with dial gauge that you get rise and fall of 2.3mm with cranking
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Stop solenoid...
Sounds like it is working...
Unthreaded it....
Is it supposed to be two pieces?
checked it... while out. it was pulling inward....
Rise and fall of plunger... with dial indicator...
is less than 2.33mm it is... 2.00 mm
let me know what you think
Thanks, Micky