Post by: Tmarkle on March 30, 2017, 01:32:02 pm
Post by: vic003 on March 31, 2017, 06:28:00 pm
IMO, you should better use braided SS oil feed line. I can't remember the dimensions of the fitting, maybe 10x100 and standard conical seal, maybe 60° cone.
I bought them to my local store in France specialised in pressure hoses made to measure.
I will need approx 80 to 100cm and bought them for 50$, found it cheap for the quality compared to the crap stock feed line.
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Post by: Gizmoman on March 31, 2017, 11:22:47 pm
I have no idea what fittings you'll need. "push-on" type with the proper ends for you engine and turbo will do fine with some good clamps.
Post by: vic003 on April 01, 2017, 10:39:51 am
There should be no pressure on the line to speak of. Just be sure the hose you use is rated for oil and can withstand 500F,No no no, he is talking about the oil FEED line, not the return line.
I have no idea what fittings you'll need. "push-on" type with the proper ends for you engine and turbo will do fine with some good clamps.
Feed line have to handle engine oil pressure.
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Post by: Gizmoman on April 01, 2017, 11:12:16 am
There should be no pressure on the line to speak of. Just be sure the hose you use is rated for oil and can withstand 500F,No no no, he is talking about the oil FEED line, not the return line.
I have no idea what fittings you'll need. "push-on" type with the proper ends for you engine and turbo will do fine with some good clamps.
Feed line have to handle engine oil pressure.
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I know it's a feed line, but worst case the pressure should not be over 90 psi. Nearly any oil line hose can handle that easily (doesn't need to be wire braid). However, the connections should be rock solid for sure. Use SS braid if your going for the bling, but it's not necessary.
Another option is soft steel tube (like large diameter brake line) with proper end connections. That's what my stock feed line is on my AAZ.
Post by: libbydiesel on April 01, 2017, 01:11:14 pm
Post by: fatmobile on April 03, 2017, 12:41:59 am
Post by: Tmarkle on April 03, 2017, 05:05:49 pm
Post by: vic003 on April 04, 2017, 05:50:37 pm
Thanks everyone. A local shop here in town can build me a steel braided line pretty cheap so I'll probably go that route. I'm hopefully gunna start the project this weekend, depending on if I get the line!
Good choice, they are not so expensive, durable and practical!
Post by: Tmarkle on April 05, 2017, 01:25:04 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 12, 2017, 01:30:22 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 18, 2017, 05:33:32 pm
Post by: Gizmoman on April 18, 2017, 06:19:45 pm
Hopefully one of the moderators can help with posting photos or you can read the FAQ
Post by: kljaja on April 19, 2017, 04:22:50 am
Post by: vanbcguy on April 19, 2017, 04:11:11 pm
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Post by: Tmarkle on April 19, 2017, 04:31:15 pm
Easiest way to post photos by far is to install Tapatalk on your phone and do it from there... Becomes pretty straight forward that way.Thanks, I'll get that tonight and get some pictures posted
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Post by: Tmarkle on April 19, 2017, 04:32:25 pm
What exhaust did you use? Old one made to fit td? Gear lever system doesnt hit toilet bowl?I built a custom plate and downpipe. Pictures will be up soon.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 19, 2017, 07:34:48 pm
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Post by: Gizmoman on April 19, 2017, 11:55:17 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 19, 2017, 11:59:36 pm
Good to see you stuck with it to the end! Nothing like driving "your" work around!Heck yeah I love it. Way more get up and go. It's been a very fun project. It will probably never be done though, as I'll always be testing and tuning lol.
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Post by: Tmarkle on April 21, 2017, 01:09:33 am
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 21, 2017, 11:25:55 am
There is no reason to go any larger than 2.5" unless you're planning on running monster boost (30+psi) with fuel to match and that would be counter-productive with the k03. I don't even think you'd notice a difference between 2.25 and 2.5 with the k03.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 21, 2017, 11:39:51 am
On the next project, I'd recommend getting mandrel bends instead of doing the diagonal cuts.And that wouldn't have any clearance issues going over the rear axle? The egts are very controllable so I guess I probably don't have to go much bigger.
There is no reason to go any larger than 2.5" unless you're planning on running monster boost (30+psi) with fuel to match and that would be counter-productive with the k03. I don't even think you'd notice a difference between 2.25 and 2.5 with the k03.
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 21, 2017, 12:30:14 pm
I'll say again that your k03 is currently a significant limiting factor. The turbine side is quite restrictive. I don't think you will see any difference at all with anything larger than 2.25" with that turbo regardless of the amount of boost you run.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 21, 2017, 01:18:36 pm
You can fit 3" over the rear axle. It's obviously easier to fit 2.25". It is a challenge to make any larger-than-stock exhaust so that it clears without noise/vibration. I have gotten some 3/8" thick medium durometer silicone sheets. Gluing a pad in places where the exhaust might contact the body can make life easier (and less noisy).The K03 is small for sure! I appreciate the very fast spool though. It was the easiest turbo for me to find near me. I just didn't want to put on exhaust that was "too restrictive." Thanks for the good tips! Straight pipe for a flow through muffler?
I'll say again that your k03 is currently a significant limiting factor. The turbine side is quite restrictive. I don't think you will see any difference at all with anything larger than 2.25" with that turbo regardless of the amount of boost you run.
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Post by: Tmarkle on April 22, 2017, 01:29:28 am
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Post by: Tmarkle on April 26, 2017, 12:06:33 am
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 26, 2017, 12:32:26 am
Post by: Tmarkle on April 26, 2017, 12:36:11 am
Are you sure that the water under the coolant flange isn't coming from the coolant flange gasket? It's completely normal for the temp to hit 2/3 on the gauge sometimes. It is also completely normal for the coolant to spew from the pressure tank if you open it when it is hot.It could be from that gasket... I have a new one I'll toss in and see. The steam is the part that made me wonder, but I guess hot coolant would steam at operating temp.
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Post by: RabbitJockey on April 26, 2017, 11:13:20 am
Post by: Tmarkle on April 26, 2017, 12:50:08 pm
Post by: fatmobile on April 26, 2017, 02:27:18 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 26, 2017, 02:47:36 pm
Check the flow from the small line coming from the radiator going to the resevoir.What should it look like? A steady stream or what?
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Post by: ORCoaster on April 26, 2017, 10:43:22 pm
Just my experience, all water pumps are different but if working half as good as they should I venture all would produce a solid stream into the reservoir.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 27, 2017, 12:35:15 am
The return to the reservoir is a slight but steady trickle on my 1.6 but as soon as I race the throttle it sprays in there as good solid stream enough to spray out if I am not careful. It rises up and catches the edge of the cap area and then flies out the top. But I would venture an RPM around 2500 at that point.Ok. Well the only thing that appears to be SUSPECT of being the head gasket is the leak and steam below the water flange. But I'm going to replace the water outlet and the o ring and pray that that fixes it. I love driving it so this leak situation is driving me nuts! Lol.
Just my experience, all water pumps are different but if working half as good as they should I venture all would produce a solid stream into the reservoir.
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Post by: Tmarkle on April 28, 2017, 09:37:54 pm
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Post by: ORCoaster on April 28, 2017, 10:32:01 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 28, 2017, 10:41:08 pm
The head can be removed with the manifolds on it if you want to bust yourself getting it out to there. I leave the exhaust connected at the pipe but remove it from the head. Likewise I remove the intake. The studs are somewhat tricky to get to from the back but it can be done. The IP should go as well as you have to have the lines to the head off the injectors anyway. Clear yourself some room to work and you won't regret it.Thanks. If I have the head decked, should I use a thicker gasket? It's a one hole that's on it now.
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Post by: ORCoaster on April 28, 2017, 11:18:04 pm
I have just been off a tooth on the IP and have had that wrench on the front of the crank go clunk and knew instantly to back it up and do it again. Something didn't align correctly.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 28, 2017, 11:24:34 pm
Changing the distance from the valves to the top of the piston is going to result from shaving down the head. I always measure the protrusion of the pistons above the top of the engine block to decide on what gasket thickness to purchase. Bentley guide has ranges for individual gaskets. Once I know that height of the pistons over the block I still check the clearances on the valves as well. There isn't a lot of wiggle room with the top of the valve pushing down into the cylinder and the piston sticking up above the block. That is why we all recommend turning it over by hand a couple of full rotations on the crank when doing a timing adjustment.Yep. When I did the the front seal in the IP I had to remove obviously the timing belt and IP pulley with everything TDC. Afterward I rotated the engine by the crank pulley and obviously there was some resistance due to compression, but I have a feel for it turning over freely. Correct me if I'm wrong but it's more than likely that the head will need decked right? 212xxx miles on the ole girl.
I have just been off a tooth on the IP and have had that wrench on the front of the crank go clunk and knew instantly to back it up and do it again. Something didn't align correctly.
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 29, 2017, 06:45:26 pm
I have actually hand lapped a couple of them successfully and feel it is better on the prechamber inserts. Skill is required and the usual disclaimers apply.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 29, 2017, 06:54:09 pm
Has the shop dealt with VW IDI diesel heads? If not, then do not have them cut the head surface. If it is not done right, the prechamber inserts will be loosened and can cause total engine failure later on. Factory says that machining the diesel heads is strictly verboten, but it has been done successfully by some.Well when it rains it pours.... I was checking it out today in the nicer weather and found the timing belt was pretty loose. Tightened it up to where I could bend it 45 degrees. Started, ran for about 15 seconds, and the belt snapped. It shut down immediately. I'm thinking the car is a total loss at this point, as I don't have the money to replace the head if it is screwed up from this.
I have actually hand lapped a couple of them successfully and feel it is better on the prechamber inserts. Skill is required and the usual disclaimers apply.
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Post by: TylerDurden on April 29, 2017, 07:08:52 pm
I'm thinking the car is a total loss at this point, as I don't have the money to replace the head if it is screwed up from this.
Bummer!
But not a total loss... you were gonna pull the head anyway. You could probably park it and get the coin together for another head, then get back in business. You've come this far...
Post by: Tmarkle on April 29, 2017, 07:12:02 pm
Yeah I'll see. Maybe if I can find a used TD motor I'll toss it in, but here in Montana vw diesels are tough to come by.I'm thinking the car is a total loss at this point, as I don't have the money to replace the head if it is screwed up from this.
Bummer!
But not a total loss... you were gonna pull the head anyway. You could probably park it and get the coin together for another head, then get back in business. You've come this far...
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 29, 2017, 08:12:50 pm
How old was the belt?
Post by: Tmarkle on April 29, 2017, 08:27:14 pm
Were you driving the car when the belt snapped or was it idling? If idling, you probably have to replace a couple valves but probably no other damage.Idling. Previous owner (whom I know and trust) said 10xxx miles, but I had to replace the front seal in the IP because it was leaking diesel, and I wonder if that shortened the life significantly.
How old was the belt?
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Post by: ORCoaster on April 29, 2017, 09:57:42 pm
Might need a couple of valves and you will be good to go.
Need anything? I found these after my son visited last month. He ruined the head by placing it on a concrete floor with the face towards the pistons down. But most of this was still good.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyahonpv6m89bm/2017-04-16%2018.35.41.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyahonpv6m89bm/2017-04-16%2018.35.41.jpg?dl=0)
Post by: libbydiesel on April 29, 2017, 10:25:22 pm
I wonder if that shortened the life significantly.
Indeed it does. If the timing belt gets any significant amount of diesel on it, it should be replaced as a matter of course. The easy time to do that is when you have to pull the belt anyway to replace that seal.
Post by: Tmarkle on April 29, 2017, 11:24:26 pm
Pull the head and I bet you will see a couple hits of the valves on two cylinders and that is it. They shut down pretty quick when at an idle. Not much momentum to carry it through a lot of turns of the crank.I'll think about that stuff. Thinking about saving some money/selling some stuff to do fresh rings and bearing and maybe ARP hardware, so that I know she's ready to handle the added stress of the turbo. Can a guy rebuild a head himself or should I have a shop do it. I'm pretty mechanically inclined. The shop that I talked to has done these heads before too.
Might need a couple of valves and you will be good to go.
Need anything? I found these after my son visited last month. He ruined the head by placing it on a concrete floor with the face towards the pistons down. But most of this was still good.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyahonpv6m89bm/2017-04-16%2018.35.41.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zyahonpv6m89bm/2017-04-16%2018.35.41.jpg?dl=0)
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 30, 2017, 01:16:05 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 30, 2017, 11:37:42 pm
I've replaced valves and valve guides and then hand-lapped the new valves to seal properly. As I mentioned before I have also hand-lapped the head gasket surface and actually think that's better than having it milled.I think there was a thread on how to hand-lap the head I read somewhere but I can't remember where!
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Post by: libbydiesel on April 30, 2017, 11:42:26 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on April 30, 2017, 11:45:34 pm
I use a large true flat piece of polished granite and then use some spray adhesive to stick 120 grit paper to it. The paper I use is from an 8" wide floor sander roll. I then lubricate the paper with WD40 or similar. When sanding I vary the direction and position of the head repeatedly. This will not work for a significantly warped head.Thanks for the great tips. I really hope the head isn't warped terribly, but I won't know anything until it comes off.
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Post by: Tmarkle on May 02, 2017, 10:36:00 pm
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Post by: Tmarkle on May 03, 2017, 05:12:39 pm
Post by: fatmobile on May 03, 2017, 07:34:52 pm
Sounds like a good deal.
Post by: Tmarkle on May 05, 2017, 01:13:59 am
If you have a feel for what the compression should be; bring a socket and breaker to turn the engine over by hand before buying.Gunna bring a battery too and see if maybe she'll start. '83 would be 12mm block right? It hasn't ran for about 6 months he said. I've got a feel for compression so I'll do that before I use the starter to turn it.
Sounds like a good deal.
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Post by: RabbitJockey on May 05, 2017, 10:26:57 am
if the crank bolt is 19mm its a 12mm block
Post by: Tmarkle on May 05, 2017, 11:57:29 pm
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Post by: Tmarkle on May 16, 2017, 01:02:50 am
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Post by: Dakotakid on May 17, 2017, 12:15:46 am
Using NEW valve stems: 1.3 mm for exhaust..........1.0 mm for intakes
The exhaust stems are slightly smaller than the intakes.....even though they are both referred to as 8 mm stems. Obviously, the exhausts grow slightly larger with heat.
I use a 0.315 inch reamer for the exhaust followed with slight cleaning hone. I used a 0.3155 inch reamer for intakes followed with slight hone for smoothing. My job turns out slightly larger than the Bentley specs. I lose a little guide wear....but, I KNOW they will not stick in the new engine.
In the future, I will use the 0.315 in both holes and use more lubrication to get slightly tighter clearances.
There are also manufacturer differences in the stems (although (of course) not much). TRW's are slightly larger......Sealed Power and Osvats are a red-one smaller than the TRW's.
Of course, wobbling valves is not "accurate" as the guides wear oblong due to the rotational effect of the cam. But....what the hey............
I GUARANTEE you need at LEAST exhaust guides in virtually any used head.
Post by: Tmarkle on May 23, 2017, 12:17:57 am
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Post by: vanbcguy on May 24, 2017, 01:37:51 am
New valves are cheap compared to the rest of the engine - once you have the valves pulled for inspection I'd be tempted to replace any that hit pistons.
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Post by: libbydiesel on May 24, 2017, 01:52:12 am
New valves are cheap compared to the rest of the engine - once you have the valves pulled for inspection I'd be tempted to replace any that hit pistons.
Your post is right on except I think you're understating it a bit. If there is any indication at all that a valve and a piston made contact I wouldn't just be tempted, I'd most certainly replace it.
Post by: Dakotakid on May 24, 2017, 03:39:57 am
This is the first time I have ever seen true "first-over" pistons. I would go ahead and compare piston protrusion among the four. But, I would NOT pull those pistons unless you HAVE to because finding rings for those will be difficult......unless Hastings or some other off-beat. This is why you do not have much of a ridge.
Post by: RabbitJockey on May 24, 2017, 07:47:18 am
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/20170501_1908491_zps6fahk7xu.jpg)
Post by: Tmarkle on May 24, 2017, 08:25:59 am
If the valves are suspected units due to contact.....the lifters must be considered as well.What would be a situation were I'd have to replace the pistons? I don't know if I mentioned that every single piston has a valve mark. Most of the marks are pretty much just visible but one has a ridge half way around I can catch my nail on easily (one pictured).
This is the first time I have ever seen true "first-over" pistons. I would go ahead and compare piston protrusion among the four. But, I would NOT pull those pistons unless you HAVE to because finding rings for those will be difficult......unless Hastings or some other off-beat. This is why you do not have much of a ridge.
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Post by: Tmarkle on May 24, 2017, 08:27:36 am
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Post by: RabbitJockey on May 24, 2017, 08:49:57 am
First over piston would be the first size over stock piston, so a 77mm piston because 0.50mm over size is the "first over" size piston.
Post by: Tmarkle on May 24, 2017, 08:54:57 am
pistons would depend on personal preference, they dont sound too bad, just make sure the rods aren't bent. I would only replaced them based on whether or not the engine needs overbored, which is decided by cylinder bore wear and compression numbers.Cylinders look good so I think that's ok. @dakotakid is saying that my engine has oversized pistons? Like it's been rebuilt once or was I misunderstanding his statement?
First over piston would be the first size over stock piston, so a 77mm piston because 0.50mm over size is the "first over" size piston.
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Post by: RabbitJockey on May 24, 2017, 12:03:11 pm
you can buy the two tools you need for measuring bores for less than 100 dollars if you're interested in being scientific about it
How ever in my opinion, if it had good cold starts before, didn't have a bunch of piston slap, didn't burn a bunch of oil, and the bores don't have any obvious problems then i wouldn't worry about it.
Post by: Dakotakid on May 24, 2017, 02:20:26 pm
Post by: libbydiesel on May 24, 2017, 07:27:14 pm
First over piston would be the first size over stock piston, so a 77mm piston because 0.50mm over size is the "first over" size piston.
The oversizes are:
1st=0.25mm
2nd=0.50mm
3rd=1.00mm
I don't know of anywhere that sells 1st oversize. I have heard that the 1st oversize was reserved by VW for factory long blocks that needed some minor correction to the manufacturing/machining and were not typically available to the general public. Because of this, many parts suppliers only show two oversizes and call the 0.5mm oversize the 'first oversize' and the 1.00mm oversize the 'second oversize'.
Post by: Tmarkle on May 24, 2017, 07:50:26 pm
Huh weird. P.S. sorry if this becoming more of a project discussion that turbo swap discussion is annoying people. If a moderator can move this to a project category or something like that.First over piston would be the first size over stock piston, so a 77mm piston because 0.50mm over size is the "first over" size piston.
The oversizes are:
1st=0.25mm
2nd=0.50mm
3rd=1.00mm
I don't know of anywhere that sells 1st oversize. I have heard that the 1st oversize was reserved by VW for factory long blocks that needed some minor correction to the manufacturing/machining and were not typically available to the general public. Because of this, many parts suppliers only show two oversizes and call the 0.5mm oversize the 'first oversize' and the 1.00mm oversize the 'second oversize'.
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Post by: libbydiesel on May 24, 2017, 07:57:25 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on May 25, 2017, 12:46:54 am
inside diameter.
Best way to remove the valve seals?
Are the valve spring exhaust/intake specific? I kept them separate just in case but I thought I better check.
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Post by: Tmarkle on May 27, 2017, 01:08:25 am
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Post by: ORCoaster on May 27, 2017, 12:05:01 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on May 27, 2017, 12:07:51 pm
Doesn't sound like you have a warped head then. A quick polish might be all you need. Just to clean it up for the install.That's what I was hoping to hear haha, the only thing I'm still stumped on is getting the old valve stem seals out. I should have just left them but I tried getting one out and pulled the spring and some rubber off so now I definitely need to get them out and replace them.
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Post by: burn_your_money on May 27, 2017, 12:27:37 pm
https://www.amazon.com/Valve-Removal-Pliers-Serrated-Overhead/dp/B014OSYFG8
Post by: ORCoaster on May 27, 2017, 09:55:34 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on May 27, 2017, 09:57:48 pm
AS long as you have replacements there is no reason to baby the seals when getting them off.I have new ones. No problem there. Ordered a tool kit with a removal tool like above and a set of install tools.
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Post by: Tmarkle on May 29, 2017, 08:33:52 pm
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Post by: ORCoaster on May 29, 2017, 11:47:53 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on May 29, 2017, 11:49:49 pm
Lifters???? or that round can like thing that goes over the springs and has the spacer on top? The Cam followers. I am not following the wording you are using here.Oops sorry I'm used to pushrod engines. Yes I meant cam followers.
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Post by: ORCoaster on May 29, 2017, 11:57:34 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on May 30, 2017, 12:00:03 am
As long as you clean it up real good and get the grit off of it you should be fine. I have one in my engine that actually has a bit of the lip that is on top of it that holds the shim in place. The cam lobes don't get near it so it is not a problem. I have replacements now but I really don't want to pull the cam just to replace that one piece. It is working so why mess with it?By the way this is a hydro head so no shims. I'm not super familiar with the hydro system so I wasn't sure if there was a mechanism inside that could have been damaged by the fall or the belt failure.
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Post by: ORCoaster on May 30, 2017, 12:03:32 am
Post by: Tmarkle on May 30, 2017, 12:08:28 am
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Post by: libbydiesel on May 30, 2017, 02:39:54 am
Post by: RabbitJockey on May 30, 2017, 11:03:04 am
Post by: libbydiesel on May 30, 2017, 06:45:49 pm
Post by: ORCoaster on May 30, 2017, 08:33:13 pm
Post by: RabbitJockey on May 31, 2017, 12:02:14 pm
Post by: Tmarkle on May 31, 2017, 09:18:24 pm
Got the old valve seals out and installed the new ones. Highly recommend this tool set!
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Post by: ORCoaster on May 31, 2017, 09:33:27 pm
I only resort to them when dealing with liquids. I figure Fast Orange and the bristle brush will take most any grease and oil off.
Post by: Tmarkle on May 31, 2017, 10:16:54 pm
Nice and clean install tool. Not so nice and clean hands. You are not a glove guy are you?I have a bad habit of never wearing gloves. The only time I seem to remember to grab them when working with hot metal haha
I only resort to them when dealing with liquids. I figure Fast Orange and the bristle brush will take most any grease and oil off.
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Post by: dailydubber on June 01, 2017, 10:01:46 am
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170601/623941c610a31a64a3812d18ecc83edc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170601/d4bb62e44d6ca86bdc382e547af7bd37.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170601/eb86369adc00b205c583215f9b1717de.png)Did you have to do anything extra after the guides were installed? I am rebuilding my head and thinking about replacing my guides myself instead of the shop
Got the old valve seals out and installed the new ones. Highly recommend this tool set!
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Post by: Tmarkle on June 01, 2017, 07:38:15 pm
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Post by: dailydubber on June 02, 2017, 09:44:01 am
Not doing the guides. The valves had very little wobble and measured very close to spec, and well below the maximum wear. Just doing new valves and seals.Oh ok, my bad. I read that post wrong
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. I will start a thread once I am nearing the end of my engine rebuild. Only the head is what's holding up the progress. Well ultimately the funds
. I'll watch this thread closely and hopefully I pick up on some good information. Good luck!Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
Post by: Tmarkle on June 02, 2017, 11:08:34 am
If mine had needed valve guides honestly the price for a full valve job plus having the head milled begins to near the price of a new head. Luckily mine also wasn't warped so I'm just putting new valves in and new head gasket and she'll be ready to roll. I'm hoping it will be solid now so I have wheels when I tear down my 12 valve Cummins for an overhaul. Once my Bentley manual and parts come I'll start putting everything back together.Not doing the guides. The valves had very little wobble and measured very close to spec, and well below the maximum wear. Just doing new valves and seals.Oh ok, my bad. I read that post wrong
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Post by: acidtonic on June 04, 2017, 11:28:37 am
Post by: vanbcguy on June 04, 2017, 03:40:56 pm
What about the crack between the valves on the head? In your photo on reply #92 it looks like the crack between the valves will eventually cause failure after enough heat cycles.Those cracks are present in most IDI heads. The general rule is they're no problem unless they're thicker than a dime.
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Post by: Tmarkle on June 04, 2017, 10:34:10 pm
What about the crack between the valves on the head? In your photo on reply #92 it looks like the crack between the valves will eventually cause failure after enough heat cycles.From my understanding very small cracks like those are common.
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Post by: Gizmoman on June 07, 2017, 08:01:19 pm
I had em on mine and it ran fine.
That's only one head though, one guy, on this forum, on the www.
But then, what are the chances?
I did have one prechamber loose and the cracks were no where close to it. The loose prechamber was one on #4 and that's the piston that melted : (.
Post by: RabbitJockey on June 08, 2017, 11:42:56 am
Post by: fatmobile on June 13, 2017, 04:10:11 pm
Post by: Gizmoman on June 13, 2017, 06:36:54 pm
Where do you guys get that little cap that goes over the valve stem so it doesn't catch on the seal?Are you talking about protecting the seal when you slide the valve stem in?
If so, I used painters tape to cover the groove in the stem.
Maybe I don't understand the question:?
Post by: Tmarkle on June 13, 2017, 09:18:47 pm
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Post by: ORCoaster on June 13, 2017, 11:33:53 pm
In a pinch I might try using a straw.
Post by: fatmobile on June 20, 2017, 06:01:24 pm
I got one with some valves but wore it out and was wondering what to use so the keeper grooves don't catch the seal.
I'll check what I can do with a straw.
Post by: Tmarkle on July 01, 2017, 01:19:45 am
Almost put back together. Rebuilt head and rebuilt injectors, plus numerous seals and hoses replaced. Hoping she runs good after all this time and money spent.
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Post by: Tmarkle on July 03, 2017, 10:09:44 pm
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Post by: vanbcguy on July 04, 2017, 11:17:05 am
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Post by: Gizmoman on July 04, 2017, 12:18:21 pm
Lots of folks out there with a chipped timing slot on their cam. Won't hurt anything, just run it.There you go. You've come a long way, don't let this mishap chill your efforts, plenty of folks have done the same thing or worse. During my rebuild, I torqued down my brand spanking new Klobenschmidt head with one of the valves open and sitting on a piston.
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Post by: Tmarkle on July 04, 2017, 06:32:39 pm
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Post by: Tmarkle on July 04, 2017, 11:06:08 pm
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Post by: air-cooled or diesel on July 05, 2017, 08:51:52 pm
the factory old style (basic-hook up) the toilet bowl exh hook up, set up was an easy basic way to kind of 'separate' the exhaust. as one single piece the exhaust is now a solid extension, or lever of the whole engine. the old toilet bowl allowed a separation of the beginning of the exhaust and the rest -length of the exhaust. if its solid the whole exhaust is now a (solid) lever, where as you torque the engine the whole lever is dependent on the motor mounts, and you can ruin the exhaust and have all that torque going down to the muffler and tail pipe. on the 'newer' mk3's like ive kept up on and most newer cars as i take it, theres a separation (also) they will have a flex pipe, so the rest of the length of the exhaust (under the whole car) can just 'hang' there. the front part, the motor can now rotate, torque on the motor mounts.
Post by: Tmarkle on July 05, 2017, 08:55:14 pm
dude, looking at prev pages & pics, i couldnt be sure, looks like you made one under estimation of your project. recent problems aside, which i hope you can get straightened out. what id like to point out and the question. is your exhaust one solid (&welded) piece to the turbo? that is a problem.Going to run a flex joint after the down pipe so that nothing mentioned will cause a problem.
the factory old style (basic-hook up) the toilet bowl exh hook up, set up was an easy basic way to kind of 'separate' the exhaust. as one single piece the exhaust is now a solid extension, or lever of the whole engine. the old toilet bowl allowed a separation of the beginning of the exhaust and the rest -length of the exhaust. if its solid the whole exhaust is now a (solid) lever, where as you torque the engine the whole lever is dependent on the motor mounts, and you can ruin the exhaust and have all that torque going down to the muffler and tail pipe. on the 'newer' mk3's like ive kept up on and most newer cars as i take it, theres a separation (also) they will have a flex pipe, so the rest of the length of the exhaust (under the whole car) can just 'hang' there. the front part, the motor can now rotate, torque on the motor mounts.
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Post by: air-cooled or diesel on July 05, 2017, 09:09:01 pm
your intake being solid is quite the same. you need breaks, normally 2 are needed, the closest 2 to the motor. rubber hoses at the intake, (&clamps),any more are additional, like 2 on either side of the intercooler. rubber can flex.
Post by: Tmarkle on July 05, 2017, 09:47:27 pm
hate to be a multiple critic; only trying to help. butt i thought id mention..Using a metal reinforced flexible radiator hose between the turbo and the blue charge pipe. Plenty of flex there lol
your intake being solid is quite the same. you need breaks, normally 2 are needed, the closest 2 to the motor. rubber hoses at the intake, (&clamps),any more are additional, like 2 on either side of the intercooler. rubber can flex.
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Post by: air-cooled or diesel on July 06, 2017, 11:51:20 am
Post by: Tmarkle on July 06, 2017, 12:21:36 pm
No intercooler, I know it looks like it drops down to a fmic but the easiest way to attach the charge pipe with how the K03 sits compared to the 1.8 intake manifold was to loop down and back. It will evening get an intercooler which is part of the reason I fabbed the charge pipe that way.hate to be a multiple critic; only trying to help. butt i thought id mention..Using a metal reinforced flexible radiator hose between the turbo and the blue charge pipe. Plenty of flex there lol
your intake being solid is quite the same. you need breaks, normally 2 are needed, the closest 2 to the motor. rubber hoses at the intake, (&clamps),any more are additional, like 2 on either side of the intercooler. rubber can flex.
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Post by: air-cooled or diesel on July 07, 2017, 08:56:37 am
Post by: RabbitJockey on July 07, 2017, 11:59:43 am
Post by: Tmarkle on July 10, 2017, 11:49:48 pm
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Post by: ORCoaster on July 11, 2017, 01:05:12 am
Post by: vanbcguy on July 11, 2017, 02:35:49 am
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Post by: Tmarkle on July 17, 2017, 11:46:20 pm
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Post by: libbydiesel on July 18, 2017, 12:29:08 am
Post by: Tmarkle on July 18, 2017, 12:29:56 am
You can adjust the belt tracking by adjusting the injection pump bracket. I've described how about 8 gazillion times in the archives. I'm too tired to type it again.Thanks, I'll take a look!
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