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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: oblique on November 27, 2016, 07:30:15 pm
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A drop falls at 0:15
https://youtu.be/3yeA7-m0Xoc
I also blow smoke at WOT and my cabin smells of coolant. My dipstick wont stay down...every time I check the oil its pushed up. No signs of any contamination the oil and it doesnt seem to be consuming any.
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It might not matter where the drip is from... all the seals are probably ready to go. Best to re-seal the pump now in one shot, unless you like taking the pump out each time the next old seal leaks.
The dipstick might be pushed up by blowby, or just vibrates its way up... check for blowby (and a compression check is worth the time, if you haven't checked in the past year).
The coolant smell in the cabin might be the heater core... you can bypass it in the engine compartment and see if the smell stops. If it stops when bypassed, you need a new core.
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Probably the cold start cover. Super common spot. You need to pull the pump to get at that one so you'd be wise to have the whole thing resealed at the same time. You CAN do it yourself though there's a very real risk of converting your working pump to some scrap parts.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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My dipstick wont stay down...every time I check the oil its pushed up. No signs of any contamination the oil and it doesnt seem to be consuming any.
check for vacuum leaks, vac pump, vac lines, vac hard line, And brake booster. booster can rust out, in back too where you just cannt see it, a mirror can help, or running motor, use a stethoscope, or engine stethoscope. various orings can have failed, 1- hard line @ booster, an oring betw master cyl and booster.
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Replying to mulitple comments:
What does it cost to get a pump sealed by a service centre? Is calibration required?
I play with motorcycles and have rebuilt engines and carbs - is toying with an IP a huge stretch? Who sells a quality seal kit?
Can I check the state of my vacuum system with a mityvac?
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the bosch VE pump is well documented and probably one of the easiest to rebuild. However, you'll have to decide for yourself the much it's worth to you to stop that drip. There are a lot of options. Several seals can be replaced with the pump off the engine, without really taking the pump apart - but the crud that's in the pump stays in the pump.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5fVcsvRPN-wf4p7vkpcHKpBX6BnjTDRB
It's not bad if you've done it before, just messy. You also have or buy or fabricate a few special tools. Most people find the adventure not worth it.
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Can I check the state of my vacuum system with a mityvac?
mityvac might be a good idea. *see if there are other suggestions. id use a mirror, or stethoscope tool. if you want to try a mityvac, take soft, flex line off top of vacpump, youll want to disconnect small lines coming off; you dont want to suck your vent doors to whereever, cap them off, try some vac on line, and see if brakebooster, and such hold a vacuum.
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Ended up finding the shaft seal was leaking. I've just replaced that (along with cold start) with seals from the Bosch kit. If I really push on it I can wiggle the shaft side to side but there was also quite a bit of corrosion on there so I'm hoping that was the problem.
Now I have a different issue: timing the pump. I didn't anticipate the dial indicator adapter and my car's on borrowed time in my folks garage so ordering the adapter from ebay will take me into next week. Can I time it by hand? ear? eye? mouth?
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Initial timing should get you by long enough to get it out of the Rents garage. Simple set of timing with tools for doing the timing belt change. Once all marked up on the IP and bracket front you can generally twist the pump towards and away from the engine and get it to where it sounds good and starts easy. Done by ear and eye.
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So I ended up using the depth gauge at the end of a digital vernier caliper which worked quite well. After changing the main seal using libbybapa's in-car method and putting the fusbox back together after investigating why my horn didnt work, I drove out of there only to be confronted by a sudden jerk and loss of power with an oscillating engine. It died and I restarted, it would sutge up some, come back down a few times and die. I found that I forgot to button down the clamp that secures the air intake tube to the turbo but this had little effect after fixning. Now it wont even start.
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Is the timing belt tensioner tight? Do you have slack in the belt now? Are ALL the bolts on the IP tight? The one on the bottom is key as well as the bracket that holds the IP to the engine. Surging may have tripped the timing. Look it over for loose parts and then recheck timing. Something sounds like it shifted to me.
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Timing belt is nice and tight. Maybe too tight? I cant quite twist it 45deg between cam & pump sprocket.
Pump bolts and bracket are nice and tight.
Could this be electrical? We did have the fusebox out completely (quite a few corroded connections) and my wipers werent working just before the motor cut out.
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Could be a suspect. If no voltage at the fuel solenoid then no fuel. Could be a loose connection along the way.
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Fuel starvation would be my first guess. That input shaft seal might not have worked, or you have an air leak somewhere on the vacuum side of the fuel system.
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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Will be checking electrical tomorrow and would like to confirm vacuum. Does the tube that goes from the pump to the air intake provide vacuum to the pump to draw fuel?
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The tube to the intake manifold adjusts fuel based on boot pressure.
If you didn't prime the pump after reseal/reinstall, it probably just has air in it... a little air in the IP will make it run badly, a lot will stall the engine.
I'd attach the mighty vac to the outlet of the IP and draw fuel all the way through the pump... then quickly reattach the return line (IP to tank) so little air gets in. Then start the engine before the fuel drains backwards pulling air in from the return lines.
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Pulled fuel through the return outlet of the pump with a mityvac with little effort...fuel might've been in the pump all along. How do I check the fuel solenoid? I did remove the spade connector for cleaning...maybe the pump isn't grounded properly?
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Pulling the fuel through with a vac is usually easy enough, it is more of a question how much air comes out before the fuel does. If the fuel comes out instantly, the pump was maybe full. Full with zero air is required for proper running, though so I'd use a container and bottle-feed to ensure I pulled a pump-full of quantity into the IP and eliminated air as an issue.
Regarding the fuel solenoid: You can hear it click when you jumper 12V to it... that said, it doesn't prove fuel is passing, or that the connection is good. These rattly engines have a knack for fatiguing wires at their connectors.
After ensuring the pump is full, I'd loosen the lines at the injectors to see if fuel is reaching them all, while jumping 12V to the fuel solenoid during cranking.
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Ok so I pulled fuel out of the pump, until I collected maybe 200mL of diesel. Wasnt full all the way for sure and got lots of air bubbles. Replaced the return hose with new. Tested solenoid: 8ohms with no ignition, 0 with ignition on. Cranked with a fresh battery and after about 2 seconds, she would fire and run for a second and die. Throttle position and ignition advance position had little to no effect each time. She did this consistently.
How did she run fine for 3km after and then suddenly stop? I gravity filled the pump with diesel purge to get her started that time. I also removed the pressure relief valve for inspection and changed the o-rings but I dont see how this would affect anything.
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More bubbles... Ja, that timing belt might be too tight and pulling the input shaft enough to let air seep in the new seal. It can happen with a worn bushing.
Or the new seal is borked... air is getting in somewhere, and pretty fast if it only runs for a second.
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Sorry let me be clear. There were lots of bubbles when I first drew fuel out of the pump but they stopped and vacuum held ok for a few minutes.
I initially set the timing with a vernier caliper which wasnt too accurate. Seemed somewhat on the advanced side. If my belt is too tight is it possible timing got pushed out a little further as I drove?
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Belt tightness has nothing to do with timing once you have it locked in place. What gets some of us is that we have the pump secured to the bracket but the bracket isn't secured to the engine. That can cause it to rock and might affect timing. Remember this, the pump timing is sensitive to small changes, like millimeters of distance the internal shaft moves all the way in and out.
Your air problem has to be due to loose nuts on the pump someplace. Those on the side that hold that mechanism against the governor shaft are tough to get tight if you don't have the right tool there. Copper washers can be gouged and not sit flat, and orings and seals can get nipped putting them in. That is why I use Vaseline on all of them. It just dissolves in the diesel when running.
Then there is that infamous top seal around the pump. Sometimes that new gasket needs to be tweaked by removing some tabs to get it to lay down enough to seal it well. If you don't have hex or torx heads on those bolts, if they are screwdriver slots you should swap them out to the former. It is way easier to tighten a hex head than a slotted head. At least for me.
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Sorry let me be clear. There were lots of bubbles when I first drew fuel out of the pump but they stopped and vacuum held ok for a few minutes.
Ja, I got that... it's the bubbles and that it only runs for a second or so, that leads me to the main seal.
Any chance you got the IN and OUT bolts mixed up?
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I assume you mean the torx bolts at the back of the pump? I think they only in one way since theyre different lenths?
Edit:
I think you meant fuel in/fuel out? I used the hose closer to the driver side of the car which has the banjo vertically mounted against the pump body.
So how likely is it that my timing is off?
If I can draw fuel continuously after a while with no bubbles, can it really be the seals?
I just cant get my head around the fact that it ran fine for a little than BAM it cuts out and starts choking out of nowhere. Maybe I hit a speedbump and bent my frame haha. No, this isnt that funny.
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Did you ever check for a vacuum on the supply side? How old is the filter? Might it have become plugged with something since you started with the IP? Short duration runs like it sounds like you are experiencing are from lack of fuel but it might be lack of flowing fuel. The IP can be fairly full and still have a problem delivering fuel if there is a vacuum on the supply side. Did you jack up the car and pinch the fuel lines?
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First of all thanks guys for staying with me this long, especially throughout my sporadic posting.
So the saga continues. I finally got the car into a garage and decided to check timing.
What I found was that with the flywheel mark lined up with bellhousing arrow, cam locked in place with #1 lobes pointing up (cyl 1 = closest to drivers side), the keyhole on the pump is about 270 degrees off! Meaning the pump sprocket needs to turn 270degress clockwise for the keyhole to line up. Yep.
I'm baffled as to how this is possible as I'm pretty sure I had the cam locked to the pump sprocket when I timed the engine initially. If I did screw it up, is it possible that it ran for a few minutes in this way or did something happen? Right before I lost power and the motor wouldnt start up there was clunk but I dont know if it was a pothole or not.
I dont even know what question to ask here. Any comments?
edit: is there a way independently verify crankshaft position?
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Correction: That is, with the camshaft locked in, the #4 lobes are pointing up (#4 =closest to passenger side) and the pump keyhole is 90deg off clockwise (needs to rotate 90deg clockwise to line up with keyhole).
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#1 cyl is closest to the cam sprocket...
I'd set the IP timing again.
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Ok so I timed everything up and this time with my dial gauge and adapter set it to 1.03mm. Was at 1.15mm before. Started and ran rough for about 5 seconds with advance pulled all the way out. Applying throttle had no effect except maybe prolonging the rough idle for a second or two. Ran rough but sounded better...no 'marbles' in the engine anymore.
I checked fuel lines behind the motor and under the car as suggested and everything looked ok...no leaks or kinks.
How do I test for fuel with mityvac at the supply side of the pump...its a banjo fitting.
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Made sure I had fuel at all injectors...check.
Made sure I had fuel at pump supply...check but only a dribble.
Made I had fuel at filter...only half full.
I guess its time to check the lift pump?
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I would say so. It sounds like a supply limiting situation. At this point in your situation I would go back to running it in and out of a bottle of some sort. A quart or Liter bottle to rule out the rest of the fuel system and verify the engine and all is good to go. Chase one problem at a time otherwise you may compound the problem.
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Any chance you got the IN and OUT bolts mixed up?
I think you meant fuel in/fuel out? I used the hose closer to the driver side of the car which has the banjo vertically mounted against the pump body.
Belated followup: to clarify, the OUT bolt has a tiny orifice to restrict flow and create pressure in the IP for dynamic timing. If the OUT bolt mistakenly gets swapped with the IN bolt, the orifice will cause a greater vacuum in the lift section which can pull air into the IP from the main seal and starve the IP.
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Funny that my IP has them stamped as IN and OUT. I can't mix them up. Well, unless I wanted to.
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Funny that my IP has them stamped as IN and OUT. I can't mix them up. Well, unless I wanted to.
Sometimes it's not so easy to see the marking.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/t1gl057qp7axpk7/20170217_103727.jpg)
I haven't tried swapping them, but I bet the symptoms would be similar.
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That is an OUT bolt if the tiny hole on the side also has a screen like thing in the opening in the middle of the bolt itself. IN bolts have a very noticeable hole drilled all the way across the bolt. So actually two holes that allow fuel in and down the center.
I will see if I can do pictures later this evening. But it has been a tiring day.
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Car ran fine from a bottle.
I pulled fuel from the IP supply hose with a little device I rigged up and it ran for a minute or two but starved again and died.
Update: Changed filter, blew out both hoses (supply->filter, filter->pump) and easily drew fuel from the hard steel line behind the engine coming from the tank.
Same story. Started fine and idled for a while then began to get rough and died.
The IN and OUT bolts I think are fine since my supply bolt has the large cross drilled openings.
Is this an issue with my IP?
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If you can pull fuel from the tank and through the filter to the IP and you can push fuel back to the tank from the IP and runs fine off a bottle I am really puzzled why it dies after a bit when properly hooked up. Granted there is a greater vacuum needed at the front of the IP to get fuel there then if you run it off a bottle so that might be our clue here.
Do you know if any of the four vanes in the ring inside the pump are sticking? Remind us again if you dismantled this pump down to that point. I almost want to guess that you are not developing a full lift on the front end of your pump. Also remind us if you put a lift pump on it at any time during all of this.
Running rough sounds like not enough fuel to the injectors and that happens when the pump runs out of fuel or all the time?
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The pushing of the fuel back to the tank from IP I havent specifically confirmed but when I remove the supply fitting from IP after each run it is dry down there each time.
work done on IP:
shaft seal
cold start seal
high pressure valve seals
main seal (using the in-car method of stretching the seal around the injector line manifold square thing)
Never installed a lift pump in the car. I dont think this 84' Jetta (Candian) came with one from the factory.
I do not know if any vanes were sticking but when fed from a bottle, engine idles smoothly and revs up fine. When its all hooked up she slwoly starts getting rougher and rougher then dies after 30 seconds. Applying throttle has no effect.
Edit: One note. Libby's method changing the main seal with the pump on the car requires the seal to rest on the 4 bolts that hold the injector manifold square thing onto the pump body and backing out each bolt to get the seal past the bolts and onto the large round shaft where the seal's groove is. Its possible the while turning the bolts, the threads could cut into the seal. So if I compromised the seal in this way, would it explain my symptoms? There doesnt appear to be a leak there but could air be getting in past it?
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The big seal is not a problem. Like said above, the supply /lift portions of the systems are suspect if the engine ran fine from the bottle.
I'd give the pump a good soaking in atf or diesel purge for a day and then rev it good while running a quart of the stuff to/from a container.
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I don't think the main seal at the back has been compromised.
It would be leaking if it was, as at that point there is plenty of pressure against it and no vacuum.
Isn't the process of replacing that O ring to pull the lines off the back of the pump manifold, loosen the four bolts a bit at a time to expose the old O ring, cut it out and then roll the new ring over the square part to the round part of the piece?
Not much chance of cutting it or nicking it until you start bolt tightening sequence.
Did you lube it up good with Vaseline or something before running the bolts home?
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Yes, thats the process I used. You are better at describing it than I am :)
Lubed it with some wd40 before tightening the bolts.
So is my pump shot? Where do I go from here?
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Man what a head scratcher!
I was re reading the thread and I picked up on this question you asked and as yet no one answered:
edit: is there a way independently verify crankshaft position?
« Last Edit: February 15, 2017, 10:27:15 by oblique »
To do this without question I would be likely to just pull the #1 injector out and remove the heat shield. I would rotate the engine to when the pointer and the flywheel mark are showing in the peek hole on the bell housing. Then take a piece of wire, say something like a 14 gauge thickness and poke it down to the top of the piston in the cylinder. Then slowly rotate the engine back and forth a bit to verify that the TDC of the #1 cylinder is aligned with the timing mark you are seeing in the transmission peak hole. When the wire stops going up and starts going down you should be at TDC. Others here have used such a technique in the past.
What I can't understand is how it is loosing fuel other than by use and not getting it replaced. Even off a bottle it should take it out, suck it into the IP, spray a little to the injectors and send the rest back to the bottle. A quart or liter would run the car for a long time at idle. Clear hose on the tank side would show you if air is being pushed out of the pump while it is running. Have we already gone down that route?
You have had electrical problems and seals that leaked on this pump from what I can tell. When the engine is running for that brief amount of time is there still a good solid 12 VDC on that fuel solenoid? If it drops off then it is like you hit the key.
Then there was the replacement of the throttle bushing too was there not? I wonder now if you have the alignment of that mechanism out of spec now. So that even though you are moving the lever it isn't moving the rest of the collar and such inside the pump. Taking off the throttle arm after you make a mark where it is at right now and shifting the whole thing backwards, counter clockwise one of those notches on the shaft, that might bring the throttle back to life. I have had to do this on a couple of pumps in the past and just takes a little time. Getting those springs to go back to where they were is the bugger for me. I found using a pair of needle nosed vice grips was the way to grab them and pull them around to lock them in.
I can't believe a running pump has gone bad with the few things you have done so far.
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The rig runs ok off a bottle... supply or lift section, methinks.
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ORCoaster, I think you hit the nail on the head early on with fuel supply. The motor runs (and is willing to rev) with the bottle however with everything hooked up and bled the the idle slowly but surely gets rougher and slower until it dies. Removing the fuel supply hose off the pump reveals the fuel cavity down there is empty.
As side notes to clarify some things, I never touched any of the throttle components at all. Those seals/gaskets are still original.
I was asking about TDC because I wanted to know how the heck I buggered up the pump sprocket by 90 degrees.
Tyler/ORC:
Could I have damaged the IP internally (or otherwise) by setting the sprocket 90degrees behind the first time? (still not sure how it ran like this)
I've rebuilt carburetors and a few motorbike engines before but those all had manuals so getting into the IP seems scary - will I benefit anything by opening up the pump? Assuming its not the fuel solenoid, what do I look for?
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I don't think it's possible to harm the IP by having it out of time, folks have run engines 180o out of time.
Because it runs ok from the bottle, I'm not convinced there isn't a restriction in the supply. I would try running it off a bottle with the bottle 6-8 feet away on the ground... if it can pull fuel that far/high, the IP is likely fine, but the supply needs work.
Before I would open the IP, I'd try some cleaner (Diesel Purge, ATF/Naptha) like I mentioned before. If the vanes in the lift section got sticky, solvent and revving might get them freed up.
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Nope, can't hurt an IP running it out of time. Like Tyler says engine runs with it out of time by 180 degrees.
So Soak the IP in Diesel purge. Fill up a bottle and put the two hoses from the IP in there. Let it get good and full in the IP and let it set for a day or two. Then fire it up. You will have a diesel/purge mix in the bottle at that time.
Good suggestion about running it a distance away from the engine. Basically simulating the distance to the tank. I know that takes hose but it would show you if your pump can draw into itself or not.
If you don't have an issue with getting fuel up into the pump from a distance then the IP is doing what it needs to do.
So where to look for a problem? The FILTER! Has that been changed? Then since you have already sent air down the line from the inlet of the IP to the filter the next place to look is the line from the filter to the tank. Something is in there or floating over the inlet and causing you trouble. It might be in the fittings on the top of the filter flange too. So don't forget those.
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Alright I will be soaking it in DP for a while but so far everything points to the IP.
I've replaced the fuel filter with new (primed it) and disconnected and manually blew out both hoses (diesel doesnt taste all the greatest) stemming from the fuel filter housing and checked the housing itself.
Drawing fuel from the main supply line behind the engine was easy enough with the mityvac but sometimes drawing fuel from the return line on the IP takes a LOT more vacuum.
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Drawing fuel into the IP shouldn't take a lot of vacuum. Unless there is a filter, line or obstruction in the IP itself. If all is clear in filter and lines to the IP could it be possible that something went down the IP when you replaced the O rings on the pressure regulator? I am totally reaching for the basket of straws here. The small passage that allows fuel to get around in that part of the pump might be holding something so you are not generating the actual pressure you should and thus the advance isn't working as it should. To clean that might take the Mighty Vac on the pressure inlet.
When ever I drew fuel into the IP through the OUT bolt opening I did it with a large plastic syringe, used for mixing 2 stroke oil. Only holds about six ounces so not really that much capacity. It filled easily just pulling up the plunger.
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My vote is the little screen in the OUT bolt of the injection pump is plugged up
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This morning I did the following:
(As I wait for Diesel Purge to arrive)
Checked orifice on OUT bolt: clear.
Hooked up a bottle to IP and set it in the void in front of the air filter so its the same height as the IP with a tall arcing hose to see if it would draw fuel.
It did, but just barely - not near fast enough to feed the IP.
To check that I did not have leaks, I connected the return line from the IP to my MityVac (instead of back to the bottle) and drew fuel through the pump and out of the bottle with ease.
While I had the car running on whatever fuel I had managed to prime the IP with, there was very little visible movement on the return side. The hoses were clear and had pockets of diesel in there so I could readily see what was going on. Very little.
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Based on this description I would purge it by filling the IP with the Mighty Vac from the Out Bolt. Then let the purge set a day after you run it just a bit on it, 1 minuts should be enough. Set up the bottle as you previously did. So the return line is going there. Have Diesel in it to replace Purge if it does start cycling it around. That is what should be happening. Basically the IP is going to pump around the fluid from the bottle through itself and then spit it out in the bottle. The running engine barely uses fuel at Idle. Say a prayer and hit the key.
If there was a problem with the vanes or a vane being stuck and the purge manages to free it up you should see equal amounts of fluid going in as you see going out. Unless there is something sticking in the inlet passages along the way. With a single short hose on the inlet side that is open to the inlet banjo there isn't much between the Vane part of the pump and that hose.
But the way you describe the fuel going in when you use the Might Vac sounds normal and nothing is plugging that process. Now it might be that the vacuum from the IP is not as strong as the Mighty Vac and that is why it isn't getting replacement fuel but the Might Vac does. That is why I thought you had a vane sticking. So, if after you purge it and it still shows this difference between IP versus Might Vac I think I would be inclined to fill the pump as full as you can get it. Then flip the Mighty Vac over the to the inlet side and see if you pull something out from the inlet side of the passages.
If the purge doesn't do the trick I hate to say that at that point I would be thrashing the snot out of the IP. No Just Kidding!!!! I would just pull the pump and start tearing it down but I am capable of doing that and you may not. I have lost count on the number of pumps I have opened and closed with good results afterwards.
I think the addition of a lift pump would help here if the IP is weak at drawing fuel. For what ever reason. Most of those pumps are easy to install, cost around 20-25 bucks and would need a switch or add it to the fuel solenoid wire. Just be sure to fuse between the two for safety sake.
Keep updating, There is always a reason thus always a solution to these problems that hide so well from us.
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Still waiting for Diesel Purge.
Has anyone bought rebuilt pumps from Prothe (Hans)?
My pump is listed quite cheaply (price includes $150 core): http://www.hansautoparts.com/product-detail.aspx?86-92TurboPump.htm
Also of interest is the mention of the feed pump. Is this what creates vacuum to draw fuel from the tank? http://www.hansautoparts.com/product-detail.aspx?16LFeedPump.htm
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What Prothe is calling a feed pump is what we have been calling the vane pump. It is the front end part of the IP and yes it is what creates the vacuum like pull that brings fuel to the IP. We are hoping that yours will come to life given a good soaking with the DP. I can buy it off the shelf from several places around town but then we have a lot of diesel trucks around as well. I am really hoping that the vanes are not fully working on your pump and once freed up then you will able to rev up the engine and keep them engaged against the side of the pump creating a vacuum like draw on the fuel.
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Finally got around to the Diesel Purge.
Once again, pump would NOT draw ANY fuel from a fully primed tube of fluid running straight from the bottle of DP. I manually drew DP from the return easily, car idled and died after a minute or two. NO movement of fluid from the return whatsoever. I revved it as much as I could, but it was not very willing and refused to redline.
Lots of white smoke from exhaust along with a puddle of black gooey stuff near tailpipe.
If the DP works I will be thrilled but right now if anyone has a clean mk2 turbo pump I am interested.
How in the world did this car run for like 2 miles just fine before suddenly sputtering out after I first re-sealed it? Did I contaminate the fuel supply and it took 2 miles for that debris to travel to the fuel feeder and get it stuck? I mean, like, WTF is going on.
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I have only had a similar experience with one pump. I took it mostly apart to redo some seals and inspect for wear. I did not go below the cam and such and inspect the vanes. When I put it back together I couldn't get it to draw in fuel for the life of me. So I tore it all the way down only to find that the vanes were stuck with a layer of yellow looking varnish like stuff. I could use my fingernail and push them out of their slots but they were sticky to the touch.
My theory was that once the pump lost the diesel it also lost the ability to lube those vanes. They dried out and stuck to the main part that drives them round and round. Once they were cleaned I slid them in place with some Vaseline and it fired right up and has been running since.
I can only think something like that is going on with your pump.
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Pump is now with Giles.
If anyone has suggestions on how to get a woodruff key out of the crankcase Im happy to take them. :)
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from Giles:
(http://imgur.com/KLzHXal.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/P9FwEMF.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/bcEhGhC.jpg)
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Ouch.
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Those little pieces of metal that make the vanes don't really slide very well being jammed in like those are. Lots of wear going on in there. Most I have seen in any pump I ever opened. Did this run dry? For an extended amount of time or just lots of cranking trying to get fuel up into it. They need a prime of fuel to pull fuel, but you know that.
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Giles thinks its from excessive belt tension. Would explain why it ran fine for about 2 miles after I first did the seals before cutting out suddenly?
If not, and the vanes were varnished in place after the pump sat dry for a few days, then all the cranking and bad idling without adequate fuel could be the cause.
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This has been an informative journey. Also a testament to everyone who stuck with it till success.
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I tossed the new pump in there and so far after 200km she is singing happily.
Definitely lots learned ;)
Thanks for everyone's help, especially ORCoaster...gold star for you, sir. You have definitely done your homework. btw is this just sheer volume of experience or do you have some profesional background?
Willy likely get my injectors serviced next as she is smoking like a demon with no advance.
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Well thanks for the kudos my friend but I have to give credit where credit is due. This forum and all of its contributors have educated me on a lot of what I pass to others. I do all my own repairs but I have only done diesel for about the last 10 years. Some of the members here were born with it in their blood compared to me.
But having tools, mechanical experience and this forum I didn't shy away from pulling apart the IP the first week I had it in my possession. I would have wasted a tank full on the drive from the leaky seals on it. One of the downsides of finding an old car that has sat more than run in the last ten years is that everything that is supposed to be lubricated when turning really isn't. So plenty of experience and learns on the workings of a diesel engine.
I like to modify or tweak things so I have built some items that helped me see how the pressure in the IP was working or not. How to deal with the blow by until such time I was able to rip the guts out of the beast and correctly address the problem. And I have a nice car in the process. It will even run on WVO if I care to have it do that.
So I can only credit what I know to this forum and just doing something. At times it worked and I learned why, and other times I just laughed at the folly and results but learned from that too.
Glad you got a rig that runs, now do the injectors and save the planet.