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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: RockOcean on June 09, 2016, 06:13:40 pm
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Hello all, it has been almost 4 years since my "AAZ rebuild (broke down in Maine)" post where I rebuilt my motor thanks to the help of you all. I have put about 90,000 miles on the motor since then.
About 6 months after the rebuild I did a compression check and got 500psi on all but one cylinder was 490psi. I was having to put in a half quart of oil every 1500 miles. About a year ago I started getting a good few drops of oil every time I parked. I then had to put a half quart of oil in every 800 miles. The leak turned out to be a combo of rear main seal, but mostly it was leaking from the oil galley plug.
Before I left home one month ago I fixed all the oil leaks. The only noticeable one was from the oil cap that wasn't leaking that bad. I have driven over 2000 mile thus far with not a single drop of oil hitting the ground. But all of a sudden I was having to put a half quart in every 600 miles, then 400 miles, then 300 miles.. I have a catch can setup that drains back into the block, and have had this setup since my rebuild. I checked the inter-cooler piping and there was no pooling of oil. I took off the hose that goes into the intake from the catch can and put it into a test can to see if that is where the oil was going. I drove like that for about 100 miles with hardly any oil in the can.
The motor fires right up and has no signs of performance loss. I then decided to take the hose directly from the pcv valve and put that in the test can to see if any oil comes out when bypassing the catch can. I sealed the catch can openings simply by tie wrapping a plastic bag around them so dirt would not get in it while driving. Once again, no oil in the test can. But, oil shot out of the catch can that I sealed off. I am thinking maybe the catch can drain got clogged up and the crankcase pressure cleared it and shot the oil out that was in it.
There are no signs of any blue smoke while driving. Only when starting the van cold at high elevations does it puff a little white/blue smoke. I am waiting for some injector seal plates so I can run a compression check. Other then that I don't know what else to do. Is it possible for my valve cover/ oil cap to be leaking down onto the exhaust manifold and then burning off, hence not showing any drops of oil when parking? . I left Florida a month ago and am currently in Utah with plans to head up to Alaska. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ryan
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7393/27534000506_40da6b5b88_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HX5X5E)CatchCan (https://flic.kr/p/HX5X5E) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7404/26959287963_955e4cdcb9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/H5ip4H)OilCap (https://flic.kr/p/H5ip4H) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7447/27533969486_5c99e10eb6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HX5MRQ)IntakeOil (https://flic.kr/p/HX5MRQ) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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3 cylinders at 500 and one at 490 is pretty damn good actually. A 10 PSI difference between cylinders is nothing to worry about at all. 500 PSI is great compression too. You definitely don't have any issues with ring seal!
So you're still having to add a quart every 300 miles? I see your valve cover is pretty wet in that picture; the severe tilt of the engine in a Vanagon will definitely shed quite a bit of oil from a leaky valve cover.
Also, in the picture below it looks like your oil cap has a pretty poor seal? Doesn't appear to be sitting flat on the valve cover?
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7404/26959287963_955e4cdcb9_c.jpg)
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Im now losing a half quart every 100 miles! Any suggestions? Im currently in Grand Priarie, AB (Canada) on my way up to Alaska.
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ive seen a few times where a leak should seem obvious but can be hard to detect. 1st i might use a big piece of cardboard covering from wheel to wheel and front to back(motor area, etc) and check, other than that it has to be going somewhere, most likely a leak, joint or gasket. get motor nice and hot, park it on cardboard, maybe let idle for a while and trace for oil leaks. either than that check breather vent for excessive oil or smoke, would end up going down intake, so it doesnt sound like your problem, as it would runaway if what your saying was going there.
check oil pan and under timing cover crank flange, can be hard to see, (im shaft seals?)
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Thanks for the quick reply. There are no leaks on the motor besides from the oil filler cap, and that leak is very minimal.
Since my last post a couple of hours ago I went to the local diesel specialist. I got super lucky and the nicest mechanic came out to check it out. Right away he took off the oil filler cap and let it bounce up and down in between the engine and his fingers. "Its blow by" he said. Then he looked at my cone filter and said "You gotta put some oil on that filter, you probably got some dust in your engine and it's worn your rings to cause the excessive blow by." He explained everything so spot on. Then he recommended using a 5w-50 oil and adding some Lucas oil additive. Saying that should get me up to Alaska and back.
So I got some 5w-50 Castrol . I am going to hold off on the Lucas oil for now and see if the 5w-50 works better.
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one thing im working on you can do. until you 'fix' the blow-by problem. separate the vents, you may need other vents(crankcase). although new vents require you to drill(clean) and have vent 'nipple(s)'. was very common on T1 bugs and like. you had lots of possibilities. like alt stands with multiple vents available. in separating vents and blocking off intake you now start with more venting, i was thinking an oil cap that fits yours with venting in it. get a vent box, for you with the oil looking like its coming up thru the cc venting youll need to set up something, as it ends up you can recover the oil coming up to a vent box. the more venting you have, until you fix, the less chance oil will be pushed up vents, and will give you a chance. i doubt pepboys has anything like this anymore, thats sometime ago, possibly napa can order something -special. or an independent shop, possibly a speed shop will still carry something like this.
id start with separating the (2?)vents, blocking off(open ports), and running vents into a vent box. a box may start to fill with oil, but on 1 side it wont go down the intake.
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id start with separating the (2?)vents, blocking off(open ports), and running vents into a vent box.
on some further thought, and some specific explain,, such as, the lower cc hose you can use a sleeve, prob can find something that fits in like a plumbing shop(can even perhaps have threads), or such as a brass(or similar) connector, that slips into lower hose, then run 1 hose to vent box, clamps. the valve cover vent has 2 openings, run both of these now to vent box, find extra venting, such as from cap would be easiest, even trying to get 2 vents coming from top of cap, run to vent box, make sure box can breathe to outside. when you get done (fix it), the only thing youll really need at this point is a new oil cap.
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i wouldnt give that blow by test too much weight.... they all have some amount of blow by, a compression test will tell you much more than just observing how much the cap rattled around(they will all do that.) what is the history and condition of the turbo?
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Thanks, I have been thinking about adding an extra vent. My catch can drains the oil back into the motor.
I put the new 5w-50 oil in and drove 450 miles before having to put another half quart of oil. That second half quart only lasted 250 miles. When I changed the oil it seemed super thin. Is there any chance that diesel is getting past the rings and in the oil making it thinner? The oil does not smell like diesel tho. I reluctantly put in a half quart of the Lucas oil to see if that helps. We made it up to Fairbanks, Ak and are now heading South to Northern California over the next month.
The turbo is a stock K03 with about 90,000 miles on it. Boost and performance seem the same as it was when new. It's not blowing out any oil, or abnormal smoke. Which leads me to believe the seals are ok.
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I bypass the catch can AND block the drain to the block. Reconnect the stock puck to the intake and drive it for a while like that for a while and measure how much oil is consumed. If the oil consumption is reduced, you know it is an issue with the catch can system, namely allowing it to suck oil up the drain and into the intake.
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yeah also, if you're running that, i would think the hose going to the intake should be on top and the hose coming from the puck should be on the bottom, but i don't know whats inside of the can
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Yes I have thought of deleting the catch can and drain to see if it is the culprit. I just need to find the bolt to put in the drain hole into the block. Will let you know how that works out. Thanks
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I switched the hoses so the top one does go to the intake shortly after my first post. It doesn't seem to make much difference. But I will contact the manufacture and see what they say. Thanks
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Today I ran a few tests. First was running the catch can hose from the top outlet into a catch bottle for 20 miles on the way to the auto parts store. No oil in the bottle. Then I plugged the crank case hole for the catch can oil drain. Then deleted the catch can system returning it back to stock. Except I plugged the intake hole and routed it to a catch bottle in case there was excessive oil from blow by coming thru. I drove about 10 miles and sure enough there was about 1/20th of a quart of oil in the bottle. So I assume it is definitely bad rings? Could it just be the oil rings that are bad. Hence there no lack of performance, or hard starting?
I ended up hooking the catch can and oil drain drain back up. But this time I kept the intake hole plugged and ran the top cc hose to a bottle that I mounted where the rear mud flap would be. I am thinking that more oil might drain back into the crankcase of there is no suction from the intake on the other side. I mounted the bottle at the mudflap in order to keep fumes from creeping thru the engine lid into the van.
I might have an opportunity at some garage space in Anchorage to change the rings. Anyone know of someone around there that maybe able to help out? Another plan is to take the ferry from the there to Bellingham. Leaving me with with only 700 miles to my final destination. Thanks for all your help!
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You may be relegated to rings at this point. Oil control rings might account for oil being burned in the cylinders directly but they do not account for excessive oil usage from the crank vent.
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So I assume it is definitely bad rings? Could it just be the oil rings that are bad. Hence there no lack of performance, or hard starting?
i never heard of a ring of the set on a piston wearing alone, abnormally. the oil ring essentially rides on the cyl wall, not really doing much more, the 2 upper rings do all the work, and have all the pressure on them. one thing to consider is how this happened, as iirc you recently rebuilt motor, bad air filter? not changing air filter, air leak post air filter? open cc vent w/o a filter? not changing oil properly?
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Ok, what would be a cause for oil usage from the crank vent?
I was thinking maybe when I gapped the rings 4 years (90k) ago when I rebuilt the motor that I gapped the oil ring slightly wrong which is why I have always lost some amount of oil that has gotten progressively worse. With a 500psi compression test done six months after the rebuild, I assume I gapped the other rings just right. I guess the only way to know for sure what may be the cause is what I will find once the head comes off, and I can see in there. Anything I should be looking for, or measuring once I do that?
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Ok, what would be a cause for oil usage from the crank vent?
one thing to check, is your power brakes working correct? a vacuum leak from vac sys/pump can push oil thru ccvent. since you seem to have oil pressure i assume the vac pump is installed correctly, easy enough to get right, but vac line to booster or integrity of booster its self. a leak can push air pressure into cc and oil can easily get pushed out; although the dipstick is a common place for this to happen. i suppose any ccvent/opening can be a result of this.
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Ahhh yes when the brake pedal is depressed when it's cold the booster behind the instrument cluster makes a hissing noise on the first depress. The hiss goes away if you depress it again right after that. That being said tho the brakes are functioning fine. The other night I had to slam on the brakes when two moose decided to cross right in front of me while doing 50mph. I was surprised how quickly the van stopped.
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Since driving 500 miles with the CC hose venting into a bottle I am still losing a half quart every 100 to 200 miles. But there is no oil in the catch bottle. This leads me to believe that the oil is draining from the catch can back into engine. Which is good and bad, since I shouldn't have that much oil from blow by. But at least I have a set up so that it goes back in the engine. But now i'm back to square one wondering where the oil is going? It is interesting to note that the 2 times I have changed the oil on this trip I have been able to drive 500 miles before having to add a half quart? I am going to see what lowering the boost does, currently it is set at 9psi max which I rarely ever reach cause I drive it so easy. I think lowering the boost may keep the crankcase pressure down a little bit and hopefully help out.
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a compression test will tell you much more than(,,)
1 thing i can think of, block off(temporarily) the catch can return, before the catch can fills up and overflows, check if here is where the oil is going. make sure block off doesnt botch something, and (also)can doesnt suddenly overflow and starts gushing,out. make sure catchcan breathes. ^^-like ruin plumbing, endup in the block, etc.
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what turbo do you have and how many miles are on it? Also 9psi shouldn't be a problem for any turbo that is in range on these engines.
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I deleted the catch can and it puked a good amount of oil into a test bottle. This oil must now be going into the cc and draining back into the motor as I have driven over 800 miles and there is no oil in the test bottle that usually would go into the intake.
It's a KKK K03 with about 90k on it. Since limiting the boost to only 5psi I have not been losing as much oil. I also have switched back to 15w-40 "dino" Rotella oil since it is much cheaper. I'm in Homer, Ak heading to Haines to take the Ferry to Bellingham, WA and then down to Northern California. Hopefully I can make it those 1700 miles on the 8 quarts I have:~ )
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Bet you about anything it is the K03. Friend of mine with an ahu has been through 3 of them. All using tons of oil as the center section goes bad. He was running about 15psi on all of them and they don't make it long on that.
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What should I be looking for to pin point that as the problem?
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the worst one of his the bearing would rotate in the center section and almost plug it off. Yours probably isn't that bad. I would get a known good K03 and replace that one of yours and see. Another thing his was doing when it was really bad was the downpipe had some oil residue on the inside of it.
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yeah k03 is a crazy small turbo, and im sure its working hard in a vanagon. but just for my own pride... who suggested scrutinizing the turbo first???? it was me :) :) :)
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Well it seems that turning down the boost has helped the oil consumption a good amount. I have only been losing a half quart every 250 miles since making that adjustment. Also putting in the dino Rotella may be helping too. We are bout to get on a ferry back to the lower 48 leaving us with just 700 miles to drive to spot where I can finally fix up the engine right. While the blow by may not be the biggest cause for the loss of oil it is still something that needs to be fixed. I might start by putting on a new turbo as I have sourced a Borg Warner for $500. The turbo actually has about 120,000 miles on it, I forgot I ran it for about 30k before I rebuilt my engine. On top of that the turbo was rebuilt at that time and not new. I look forward to finally fixing/rebuilding this engine correctly this time, and will post photos along the way. Thank you everyone for all your help!
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Hello again, since my last post I drove my van the 700 mile to Northern California with the same problem. Losing half quart of oil every 200 miles with no sign of any smoke, and no leaks any where. I then took some time off the road for awhile which is why I did not post up until now. I was planning on driving from L.A to Maine this week with plans to pick up an AHU engine (70k) with wiring harness for only $1200 in Wisconsin. But 250 miles into the trip I had to add 2 and a half quarts of oil! So I turned around with plans to rebuild the engine.
The first thing I noticed when taking the injectors out to do a compression test were that #1 and 2 injectors had burn marks on them that 3, and 4 did not have.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4164/34595972776_85805e1a76_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UH8ppf)Injectors (https://flic.kr/p/UH8ppf) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
My compression numbers are: #1 (395) #2 (395) #3 (395) #4 (300)
The AAZ specs (Bentley pg 15a-2) are:
New: 493 psi minimum
Wear limit: 377 psi minimum
Max difference between cylinders: 73 psi
I am planning for a full rebuild once again. My brother sells VW parts so this is very easy for me to just order everything I may possibly need. And if I don't need it I can return it.
As for now I plan on taking in the head, and the block to a machine shop on Monday to have them tested.
Any recommendations for 80.5mm over sized pistons and rings?
Last time I rebuilt the engine, I did not get the block decked to provide optimal piston protrusion for a 2 notch gasket so I will be doing that this time.
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you so much!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4186/33827553333_4a73c4bd8e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Txe45a)Garage (https://flic.kr/p/Txe45a) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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Upon inspecting the intake piping it looks as though there is a lot of dust in there. Somebody had mentioned that I may have "dusted" my engine. So if this is the case what all could have been effected by this?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4161/34640014905_e4e28228f9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UM28Ai)Dusted (https://flic.kr/p/UM28Ai) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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If you have had dirty air running into your engine it could have done some erosion to the turbo fins, added a bit of wear to valves, and more significantly worn the rings, cylinders and pistons. It's unlikely, IMO, to have damaged anything else although depending on how much and how long, higher abrasive content in the could have accelerated wear on the bearings/journals/lifters, etc...
If doing a complete rebuild, you might consider going to an mTDI. The upsides would be better fuel economy and lower heat load on the cooling system/oil. The increased lower rpm torque is a double-edged sword. It is more fun, but harder on the trans.
In order to go mTDI, you could keep your current AAZ block and all accessories except you would need to swap the pistons, head, injectors, and injection pump. I'd also recommend swapping to the AHU pump bracket and timing covers to match, but it isn't strictly necessary. The TDI pump bracket accommodates an additional timing belt roller for a bit more wrap on both pump and cam. You could keep your crank, rods, and all accessories. Go with a Land Rover 300TDI injection pump. The AAZ is a fine engine also so there's nothing wrong with rebuilding it as is.
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The turbo is still producing good boost so I hope that the fins are ok. But after removing the turbo it looks as tho the seals may be leaking. It is interesting to see oil trying to come out from in between the manifold and the turbo. Would this mean that oil is leaking from the head?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4157/34492481782_e71337e4eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UxYZ8L)TurboLeak (https://flic.kr/p/UxYZ8L) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4167/34269265250_3a82d94748_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UdfWCS)ManifoldLeak (https://flic.kr/p/UdfWCS) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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There is no oil in the exhaust manifold, or inside the exhaust outlets on the head.
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Looks like cylinder #2 is the only cylinder that is wet, and cylinder #4 has a lot more soot then the others. Any suggestions on why this is? Also if I am not mistaken the cracks between the valves are normal?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4165/34499456102_ba06c302d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UyAJmE)WetCyl (https://flic.kr/p/UyAJmE) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4156/34531043851_12afc2ca76_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UBoCi2)BottomHead2n3 (https://flic.kr/p/UBoCi2) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4163/34661435685_ac1b39a84c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UNUVf6)BottomHead4 (https://flic.kr/p/UNUVf6) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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I don't know why #2 would be the only one that was wet. Extra soot on #4 might well have to do with the lower compression. What oil return line are you using? Stock AAZ?
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I have a steel braided oil line that goes straight up and down into the oil pan.
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I assume you have decent ID on the oil return fittings - any smaller ID than the stock line can back up the oil and cause it to come out the turbo seals. That's probably not the case here, though. From everything you've said, I think there's a good chance that excessive blowby was creating crankcase pressure that was pushing oil up the oil return line.
Is there any chance your air filter was clogged?
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Yes the oil return fittings look the same if not larger then stock. Do you think there is a chance that once the blow by is taken care of it will not leak from the turbo anymore?
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Now that I think of it when its cold sometimes my oil pressure will sit around 70 psi for maybe a minute and then drop to 20. When I moved the van to work on it I started it cold, waited for the oil pressure to drop to 20 then I drove it up on the ramps and shut it off. So maybe the oil that I am seeing only came out when the oil pressure was around 70 and since I shut it off right away it stayed there.. When usually it would burn off?
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Did you see my question about the air filter? Any chance it was clogged? That can cause the pressure control valve to shut (hockey puck on valve cover). With that closed, the crankcase pressure will build.
It is possible with blowby fixed the turbo will not leak. It is not likely that it has anything to do with startup oil pressure.
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I doubt the filter was ever clogged, I cleaned it twice this past summer. And I put a brand new one on this fall. Both K&N cone filters.. The old one had a small pin hole on it due to rubbing, that is why so much dust got in the intake I believe. What causes high start up pressure?
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I dropped the block and head off at the machine shop today. They quoted me to fully rebuild the head, and to rebore the block to 80.5mm would be $850 for labor. And an additional $600 to rebuild it for me and give it back as a long block. I will be supplying all the parts. Is this reasonable?
They are checking everything first so hopefully all that won't need to be done.
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I would think 2-300 to rebuild the head. Magnaflux, boring, and decking the block maybe 250. Rods would be another 100ish. Typically there isn't anything you need to do anything else to the crank other than maybe polishing the journals. 850 seems steep to me for that, especially if you are providing the valves. 600 to build it up seems quite reasonable for the labor, provided they are doing everything correctly, e.g. replacing intermediate shaft seals, replacing the oil pump bushing, replacing the galley plugs and freeze plugs, etc...
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Having trouble sourcing 80.5mm piston rings does anyone know if these are even available from Grant, Goetze, or Mahle?
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Not much I can add, just want to wish you good luck as you proceed. Looks like you have some very good assistance for sure. As for cracks between valves, it's common (based on limited knowledge) and shouldn't hurt a thing. Yours actually appear quite small from others I have seen.
I must say, you really do some serious mileage every year and all in all, your rebuild has served you well.
Jim
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Thanks Jim!
The machine shop called today and said the head does not need to be resurfaced and asked if I was ok with the cracks between the valves. I said that is normal for these heads. Upon my looking for 80.5mm piston rings, I came across a set of Kolbenschmidt 2nd over sized pistons with rings. So if indeed I do need to bore once again I will use those. Anyone know what rings come on those?
Also Andrew, thanks for all your info! I don't know if you remember "Jarad" on the Samba forums from years ago? He is the previous owner of my van. It was pretty cool to go thru posts that he has made about my van four year before I purchased it. You helped him out a lot as well :~ )
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I also sent out the injectors to be tested, and the turbo as well to the same place. It is just 100 miles away. Bec Pacific in Bakerfeild, CA.
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Got the measurements back from the machine shop:
<<Block bore
Cylinder 1 .004 wear
Cylinder 2 .004 wear
Cylinder 3 .006 wear
Cylinder 4 .022 wear
Parts needed
Pistons/Rings @ 1mm oversized
Wristpin bushings
Rod bearings @ .25MM
Main bearings @ .25MM
Oil pump drive shaft bearing x2
Gasket Set
Oil pump??
Parts for the head
8 Valve guides
4 intake valves
4 exhaust valves
8 lifters>>
They said I will have to put a a sleeve in cylinder #4 in order for 80.5 mm pistons to work. Please note that the pistons in there now are oversized at 79.98mm. They also need to grind the crank for .25mm over sized bearings. Along with the parts for the head, the $500 KS Pistons, all the other parts from my brother, and the possibility of having to rebuild the turbo as well I think im gonna just buy a whole engine with everything on it from Quality German Auto Parts which is an hour and a half away. What do you all think?
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I think im gonna just buy a whole engine with everything on it from Quality German Auto Parts which is an hour and a half away. What do you all think?
I'd certainly consider it.
You have received many miles out of this engine so take what I'm about to say as an outside observer looking in. First, I personally don't think a K&N filter is your best choice if very fine dust is something you want to keep out of your engine. There's a reason they breathe better - they aren't as tight.
When I cooked my engine (no EGT sensor) it was #4 piston that melted. I think #4 somehow works harder than the rest and may even receive more than a fair share of air due to something going on inside the intake manifold (I had the same type you do).
I don't understand the voodoo of #4 but I think it's more than coincidence that it was the first to melt. Somehow it seems that last cylinder works harder or is mistreated/overheated more than the other three. Possibly some of the folks with more experience can chime in and are more than welcome to tell me I'm nuts.
I still think there are better air filters than K&N and from the bits of info in your post, I think it let in some superfine dust along your many miles.
Jim
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I think it would be a mistake NOT to go see the Kraut (forgot his name....I've talked to him on the phone) at Quality. Right now, he seems to have quite a few of that particular engine on hand. Actually, the most I have ever seen him have.
When you go there.....keep a look out for cans of ether on the shelves, etc. I have always "wondered" about his "cold start" videos that he puts out. Maybe I am too skeptical....but, it always seemed his "unknown" engines tended to start up too easily.
I considered buying from him in the past. But, my $400 delivery fee was always the deal breaker. YOU are not faced with that dilemma. Please let us know your view of what you see at his facility. Please report on how your deal went and how it runs (if you decide to take the plunge).
Good luck on the deal. P.S.....I wouldn't call ahead of time....I would want to ensure that I really did see a cold start!
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A diesel would have to be pretty trashed to have a poor cold start indoors in California.
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A diesel would have to be pretty trashed to have a poor cold start indoors in California.
Mine starts instantly (faster than a gasser) after a short GP cycle - San Diego. Still no harm in looking for a few either cans.
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great time to go to a tdi
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great time to go to a tdi
X2... AHU mTDI FTW!
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Thanks for the heads up and concern that Thomas at Quality German Auto Parts may be putting ether into his motors to help them start up and run smooth. I do think you went a little to far telling me to look around for cans of ether. We will see what happens, I'm pretty sure there are way more good experiences with them then bad.You should knock them unless you your self has had a bad experience with them. My dealings will be well documented on here so we will see what happens.
I would love to go ahu tdi as you would see further up in this post I was suppose to be picking up a 72k ahu engine with harness, pedal assembly, and cluster for $1200. But I did not make it to Wisconsin :~ (
My plan now is to buy this complete engine put it in my van. Pick up my nice and clean wore out engine from the machine shop and then drive to Maine where I can rebuild the engine myself. Then I will sell the one that's in the van. Or maybe sell both of them and get a tdi engine.
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Picked up the engine today, was a great to meet Thomas who answered every question I threw at him. Even threw in a few gaskets I needed for free. The engine has the late style pump on it with some extra wires labeled in red and green. What am I suppose to do with these? Will it effect the pump at all if not hooked up? It also does not have the cold start lever on the back bottom of the pump. Anyone know how I am suppose to hook that up on this pump? Thanks
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4184/34727185356_ca8946b144_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UUHUk7)LateStylePump (https://flic.kr/p/UUHUk7) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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Hmmmmmmm... The green ones are a lift sensor for the plunger, it'll essentially throw an RPM signal. The red ones though, plus the lack of a cold start capability suggest that this pump may have had ECU timing control. Some late AAZ engines had rudimentary electronic control over timing - I have no idea if the pump will function normally without that connected to an ECU or if it will just run fully retarded all the time.
Is there a crank position sensor in the block near the oil filter?
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No there is not a crank position sensor.
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I read on another thread to just cut the wires going to the injection pump and it will still run at 95%. I imagine its for the fuel enrichment? If it doesn't work I will just install my old pump. I got the motor in and all set up. But when I went to put my vr6 water pump pulley on for some reason it is not clearing the crank pulley. It was really close on my other motor but it cleared just barley. I had to re-clock the turbo to get it just right for the Vanagon install. Once I did that I was excited to crank it up even tho the water pump pulley was not on, figured it would be ok to run for a minute. BUT - my oil feed line to the turbo is a different thread! So no starting the engine today. I am going to get the water pump pulley machined to fit. And then find the right connector to hook up my oil line tomorrow.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4169/34649160382_4fbe10bb9a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UMQ1dW)AlmostReady (https://flic.kr/p/UMQ1dW) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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why not swap to your old crank pulley?
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also, i would try to find the fuel line clamps to help prevent them from vibrating and breaking.
I think the electronics on the pump controls the timing advance and timing, kind of like the solenoid on some injection pump timing covers. but i am not sure.
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I don't have the belt for that set up. I would also have to put on the power steering pump, and a/c compressor to get that to work.
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Sounds like your real close!
Congrats on getting it in already. I find that setbacks can be good just to keep things going at a logical pace ;)
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I ordered the factory no a/c, no power steering water pump pulley from VW today. Will be here tomorrow along with my old turbo with the correct oil feed adapter on it. Here is a picture of the insane cylinder wall wear on number 4. I don't know how it still ran so well and started up fine with that much wear? Any thoughts on what made it wear like this?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4166/34793067266_d3c19b25bd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V1xyJ7)#4CylinderWear (https://flic.kr/p/V1xyJ7) by RockOcean.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/atflickr/), on Flickr
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headgasket or injector? maybe a bad oil squirter in that cylinder?
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What condition were the rings when you removed them? Almost looks like metal on the top of the cylinder wall. Heat issue?
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I'm guessing fuel wash or ingested debris.
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reading over the entire thread it sounds like a lot of dirt did get in the engine, and if you look the other bores are very worn out for a relatively fresh engine so that would make sense.
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Woooohoooo started right up! Time for a 100 mile test run. Thanks everyone for all your help :~ )
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Nice! I'd ditch the K&N and get a filter that doesn't pass the fine dust.
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Nice! I'd ditch the K&N and get a filter that doesn't pass the fine dust.
^^^^
That thars melted aluminium - seen it (but a lot worse).
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K&N=snakeoil
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(http://www.webchutney.pk/content/uploads/2016/09/raw-7.gif)
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So what cone filter company do you recommend?
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Not sure about cone filters specifically but Donaldson makes some good filters that are extremely suited to keep fine dust out of your new engine. There are probably quite a few others that would do the job as well.
https://www.mrostop.com/g070020-donaldson-air-cleaner-fpg-radialseal.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3pTJBRChgZ3e7s_YhAkSJAASG9Vr7q2z1AUnBYn6_UBrkfIy7FOergLKMMocNYzl5g1SxBoCn_Pw_wcB (https://www.mrostop.com/g070020-donaldson-air-cleaner-fpg-radialseal.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw3pTJBRChgZ3e7s_YhAkSJAASG9Vr7q2z1AUnBYn6_UBrkfIy7FOergLKMMocNYzl5g1SxBoCn_Pw_wcB)
You may find something at your local autoparts store that could be swapped into the same housing. Take you filter in and see whats available or possibly check online.
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I don't think that pump has proper timing control. It's more like a TDI pump where the internal pressure is constant and that solenoid you highlighted in red pulses to control the timing. Keep a close eye on EGTs and MPGs. I could be wrong. That's not a North American pump so I'm not very familiar with them.
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I made it across the country with no problems. It is nice to not have to put oil in every 200 miles :~ )
I will post photos of the pistons and rings once I get settled in a few days. Is there any chance that it was not bored straight? And that caused the extreme wear on that top half of the cylinder wall.
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I made it across the country with no problems. It is nice to not have to put oil in every 200 miles :~ )
I will post photos of the pistons and rings once I get settled in a few days. Is there any chance that it was not bored straight? And that caused the extreme wear on that top half of the cylinder wall.
You got some real gnarly nads that's for sure - good on ya!
I suppose anything is possible but I believe when cylinders are bored, they are all quite parallel with each other unless someone moves something between bores. As I mentioned, my #4 bore looked very similar and it was due to over fueling/boosting while climbing a long grade as I had no EGT gauge and was using water temps to check heat - very bad idea. The silver stuff at the top of the bore is aluminum from your piston. My engine ran after that, and not too bad - just made enough unburnt fuel smoke to cloud a 4-lane freeway.