Post by: vic003 on February 18, 2016, 11:12:26 am
I'm French and had to use the french section but it's a little bit dead now...
So excuse my english language!
I drove a Seat TDI for 2 years, and now I just buy et golf 2 and mounted a MTDI with a pump that I made myself.
The first had problems with the iddle but ran good with enough power, it was fun!
I made a new one to correct my iddle problem and put new components in!
But I have now another problem, the iddle is good it start very well without pushing the pedal. Now the engine with full throttle don't go over 2000/2500 RPM.
I use a 17mm shaft pump from 1.6TD, cam plate and head from TDI, timing piston and spring from 1.9TD with the regulator, lever modified in 10mm and throttle lever modified in 17mm. I also put a longer pin on the governor piston.
So why could my engine don't go in high RPM?
Post by: libbydiesel on February 18, 2016, 09:44:26 pm
Post by: vic003 on February 19, 2016, 12:59:49 pm
Most likely there is an issue with the assembly of the governor spring capsule. Possibly the control lever assembly is bent/damaged/indexed to the governor springs incorrectly. Maybe the accelerator to shaft orientation is incorrect or max fuel screw is way off. The accelerator pedal/cable could be failing. The accelerator cable clip that sets its position on the pump could have fallen out.
Thanks for your answer.
What is the thing you name governor? The shaft with the 2 springs that go on the control lever?
All the part of the acceleration control are good, no damage since last time and it worked great.
It's a lot better with the change of the pin, I'll upload a pci to show, I don't know the name!
Now I've a problem with the timing piston and spring, doesn't work well, I'll replace it tomorrow.
How do you name this part:
(http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/17/13/65/36/img_2010.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/17136536/80)
Post by: vic003 on February 20, 2016, 07:12:02 pm
Post by: vanbcguy on February 20, 2016, 07:38:39 pm
Glad you found the cause! If you choose to run a lift pump make sure whatever you run will pass fuel even when it isn't operating. I have a Facet Posiflow lift pump on my Mk3 - it's supposed to flow around 40 GPH I think, plus the IP can draw fuel through it fine even when it is switched off.
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Post by: vic003 on February 22, 2016, 05:27:15 pm
Post by: vanbcguy on February 22, 2016, 07:20:30 pm
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Post by: ORCoaster on February 23, 2016, 07:53:58 pm
Post by: vic003 on March 14, 2016, 06:34:58 pm
To answer, yes it was the feed pump in the PI, these pices seem to be appaired, and I took them in another PI.
Now I try to fine tune of the PI, but I don't find tuning to limit smoke at low RPM when turbo don't charge. I've a more agressive LDA cone 75 from Peugeot and I don't have the max flow for my 0.260 nozzles. I try to have the max flow with 1.7 bar (approx 25psi) on my K24.
Post by: vanbcguy on March 15, 2016, 02:20:50 am
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Post by: vic003 on April 05, 2016, 01:25:08 pm
It seems like on boost fueling is good, so if I reduce the main fuel screw I will reduce on boost too.
My LDA is at the max, and I changed it for a number 75, much agressive, more fuel at full boost. I searched a LDA that have the biggest range of fueling, and this one seems perfect, good angle of the cone.
I think I can make a bit more aggressive LDA but I can't find one.
Post by: vic003 on April 09, 2016, 07:37:15 pm
I drove with my MTDI tonight, after tune my LDA, I put it at the less aggressive part of the cone.
I have what I want, no smoke at low RPM off boost, but I'm to the max of the LDA cone on boost and no smoke at 1.1 bars (16 psi). But I want to put my K24 at 25 psi, and I don't know how I can have more fuel on boost with no smoke off boost as I already use 100% of my LDA cone without any smoke...
Post by: vanbcguy on April 12, 2016, 10:52:29 am
Post by: vic003 on April 14, 2016, 06:49:08 pm
The lda I'm runing is the most agressive one I can find in France, it comes from a Peugeot and is number 75. I can't find cummins parts here, or it is very rare. Maybe someone can find me the part number or something like this I could find on eBay from US or maybe UK.
For the agressive side of the LDA, the angle of the cone doesn't change, and what I need is more angle to have a bigger movement of the LDA.
I agree with you on the fact I must change the preload of the spring as I made, but in my mind the problem is the same, if I want more fuel on the max of the LDA I must screw the main fuel isn't it? And if I do that I get the fueling I need for my boost but lot of smoke off boost, it's very annoying in France, as smoking cars are scapegoats here...
Do your mtdi smoke at full throttle in low rpm when your are runing for approx 150 WHP?
Post by: vanbcguy on April 15, 2016, 04:01:43 pm
The LDA and fuel screw operate independently (though they are of course related). The LDA can open up more than it is currently with your existing fuel screw setting - it can add more fuel at full boost than you are right now with a more aggressive pin. Set up the fuel screw so you are just below smoking with the LDA disconnected then set the LDA up, you'll probably find you need to back it off!
Post by: vic003 on April 25, 2016, 07:20:21 pm
I'm currently on holiday so far away of my car, and I project to travel to Ireland for a month or more, so the project will be in stand by.
I'll work on a presentation of my car when I'll be back home, so probably next week.
For you, I can find a tune with no smoke off boost with a boost of 25 psi and nice fueling on boost, that's right? I owned a TDI before with electrical pump, I made my own progs with a GT2052V, and it was way more easy to control smokes!
But I made the choice of a simple and more reactive system, so the MTDI was the good choice. But to find fine tuning it's a bit more toughy but a nice challenge!
The fuel pines you talk to me are those one? http://www.mandhinc.net/DPD-1-F.html (ftp://www.mandhinc.net/DPD-1-F.html)
The one I saw are really price, approx 150 bucks the part, so I'll probably to made one myself with my lace and a carbide milling tool a homemade heat treatment. It won't be easy to make it a precise shape but it's costless!
If you have good adress for aftermarket parts at low price in US or Canada it would be fine, I've family in Vancouver so I can ship parts to them and see after.
Post by: vanbcguy on April 25, 2016, 11:21:25 pm
Yeah the prices I've seen those pins going for is a bit absurd as far as I'm concerned, though the stock Bosch ones aren't exactly easy to come across new. Seems like they should be more straightforward but I guess the combination of the specific diameter and the threading aren't the easiest in the world.
It will be hard to make a 25 PSI tune be COMPLETELY smoke free. You can make it fairly civilized but with the pedal to the floor it's probably always going to have some smoke until the turbo spools up. The LDA is meant as a pollution control device and has its limits. However you should be able to make your car not smoke under normal circumstances. Since there's nothing reacting to actual air mass the "tune" you set up with the pump will make more or less smoke depending on the weather, temperature, altitude, etc.
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Post by: vic003 on May 04, 2016, 04:01:37 am
Si I worked on my new fuel pin yesterday, I have to grind it now, but the diameter and surface of my new one is good.
I love my old lace, it's magical!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/173cb4e5b3e8445b8f8b3608c0bd9466.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/929c3204417951e907af6774f368948d.jpg)
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Post by: vic003 on May 04, 2016, 10:54:51 am
Here the shape of the pin
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/405c83404fe302f8683302237ceb4e1d.jpg)
Some hand work to get a good RA
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/1312b9f3c7438a7956d00153584d91ec.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/a3372b7faddf82884004b44d1c33a006.jpg)
Final shape
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/0798dd1c297db0d9e51fd3eaead8bde3.jpg)
And now the piece get heat treaded with my home made fournace. Due to the high level of carbone it's like a surface cementation
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/87da65ce27cec9ca03ec9e6329e2dd8e.jpg)
Oil cooling
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/e5cfdc5e9b6080e2feb94900b60ff1e0.jpg)
Finish!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/43b9df766d18b1af2f8a0ce578b4f8e9.jpg)
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Post by: libbydiesel on May 04, 2016, 11:07:34 am
Post by: vic003 on May 04, 2016, 11:24:18 am
Next step I will try to increase the working range of the LDA with a longer lever!
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Post by: vic003 on May 18, 2016, 03:31:47 pm
I installed an oil cooler with a thermostatic sandwich plate that was mount on my old Seat.
I also decided to put some plastidip on my turbo piping.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/0a540d43a254ccf6dcfd847f1868950b.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/b1fc1378409a0252b7c7ddf07766daa8.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160518/f3c669a74929443db05fa2e680707168.jpg)
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Post by: vic003 on May 22, 2016, 02:49:07 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/7719c6e5de8467cec81e3f8b4a75b940.jpg)
Do someone know if I need a support or something like this to avoud stress on manifold and turbo?
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Post by: vic003 on June 11, 2016, 02:14:07 am
I found a new pump with 20mm shaft but it is a small snout. I saw Tintin mounted it with spacer on the axis, but instead doing that what do you think putting a longer shaft with the correct offset?
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Post by: theman53 on June 11, 2016, 10:29:20 am
Post by: libbydiesel on June 11, 2016, 01:02:22 pm
Post by: vic003 on June 11, 2016, 01:07:09 pm
So, I have this pump and I want to put in this longer shaft, it would get out 13mm more. But idk if the brass bushings would love.
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Post by: vic003 on June 11, 2016, 01:27:54 pm
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Post by: vic003 on June 11, 2016, 01:37:13 pm
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Post by: libbydiesel on June 11, 2016, 08:38:16 pm
Post by: vic003 on June 12, 2016, 03:03:20 pm
Another question, I heard the rev limiter on Iveco pump is set to 3800 rpm how can I adjust it?
Is this the lenght of this part? (I don't know the english name)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160612/89a0c5f2a0c2426ab56799ec6722275d.jpg)
Or this control lever?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160612/1ba480e3d8bd182ebe1debadb337909d.jpg)
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Post by: libbydiesel on June 12, 2016, 06:02:04 pm
The second lever length has some effect, but the governor RPM is really controlled by the rate of the spring.
Post by: vic003 on June 12, 2016, 06:25:06 pm
Which effect has the lenght of the pin on the first pic? I think the one that is actually installed in my first pump is shorter, it only limit the fuel flow?
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Post by: libbydiesel on June 12, 2016, 08:51:06 pm
Post by: vic003 on June 14, 2016, 03:16:15 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/c60975be5d17371a2322e27c2ee23bc6.jpg)
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Post by: theman53 on June 15, 2016, 08:57:17 am
Post by: vic003 on June 15, 2016, 09:26:38 am
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Post by: vic003 on June 23, 2016, 02:56:52 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160623/bb39c5a43abbae17d5819357b1630e6e.jpg)
I just hate the ahu timing belt, I don't find them really strong for a tdi engine with 11mm head.
So I took a ALH new version belt with 141 teeth, that I mounted with an idler pulley off a c6 v6 HDI. I think it would be better.
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Post by: libbydiesel on June 23, 2016, 03:07:27 pm
Post by: vic003 on June 23, 2016, 03:10:03 pm
What do you call mismatch?
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Post by: libbydiesel on June 23, 2016, 05:18:12 pm
Post by: vic003 on June 23, 2016, 07:48:26 pm
Now you say that I will see that. It's just annoying as I rebuild my turbo not long ago.
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Post by: libbydiesel on June 23, 2016, 08:01:05 pm
Post by: vanbcguy on June 24, 2016, 01:03:05 pm
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Post by: vic003 on June 26, 2016, 08:13:18 pm
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Post by: vic003 on June 28, 2016, 11:01:34 pm
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Post by: vic003 on June 29, 2016, 11:21:24 am
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/be1a8173aadcfd3b99ecfc3fa1bb95e4.jpg)
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Post by: vic003 on July 01, 2016, 06:13:44 pm
I'm set it actually at 1mm and start well, can I have more economy with different setting?
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Post by: vanbcguy on July 02, 2016, 12:43:34 pm
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Post by: libbydiesel on July 02, 2016, 03:32:43 pm
Post by: vic003 on July 02, 2016, 06:55:28 pm
French guys always say to set at 1mm regardless the parts you run in your pump.
So I first started with 1mm and will see for improvement, just I saw 1,54mm for range 300 tdi and found that high!
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Post by: libbydiesel on July 02, 2016, 07:21:00 pm
Post by: vic003 on July 06, 2016, 10:07:52 am
Yesterday I fit my timing belt cover, and a little modification was made by heat and reshaping it but it's good!
But I saw another problem, I have an exhaustive leak between manifold and turbo. I now there is no gasket existing for k24, maybe you have a solution ?
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Post by: libbydiesel on July 06, 2016, 10:44:39 am
Post by: vic003 on July 12, 2016, 05:09:28 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160712/a2d943a6c22b000bb3f6d462a7cba311.jpg)
Other thing, I made a test run sunday, drove 30 minutes and found the pump temp very hot, is this normal?
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Post by: vic003 on August 25, 2016, 06:42:01 pm
Approx 2 months later, the MTDI runs well, I use it as my daily to see reliability. So now plan is to imprive tuning, turbo is runing approx 25 psi,and I'm still lean in my air/fuel ratio with no smoke and approx 150hp, seems good :)
I'll increase slightly fuel too see when it begin to smoke, and I have a question about 2.5TDI pumps from ducato, I think they are almost same then Landy 300tdi pumps.
In which way must I go to adjust advance curve? In my opinion the spring is softer then one for TDI due to the lower RPM limit. Am I good?
Next week little golf will get bling bling rims, very originals parts, wait for pics!
Post by: libbydiesel on August 25, 2016, 07:26:34 pm
Post by: vic003 on August 26, 2016, 02:09:52 am
I don't know how is the advance curve on these engines but I know the tdi one very well.
For me it's the harder point when tuning a mTdi, with electronique I just had to put the value I wanted on Winols!
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Post by: vanbcguy on August 29, 2016, 03:15:32 am
Yes, you are correct that the stiffer the spring the later the advance. I'd wager the springs are probably stiffer than needed if anything though - advance causes NOx which is controlled in most markets. The ideal advance curve for optimal performance is not the same as the ideal curve for minimal NOx production.
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Post by: vic003 on August 29, 2016, 06:43:20 pm
Ok, that's what I thought, so will try TDI spring with more shims, then less timing advance at low rpm to help turbo charging and more advance at high rpm to improve fuel combustion and had high boost fuel. Do you think it's the good start or should I try a stiffer spring?
I should invest in a spring hardness measurment tool.
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Post by: vic003 on August 29, 2016, 06:44:45 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160829/523197ef1b3747242653707e214a0398.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160829/c9b81d767b4e9c4bdea588f859578d72.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160829/b418548268cc06185999440f77a7fd32.jpg)
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Post by: vanbcguy on August 29, 2016, 06:53:12 pm
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Post by: vic003 on August 29, 2016, 07:05:48 pm
The timing on electronic controlled pump is not so simple as pump internal pressure has à great effect too, but it's easier too control with vagcom.
In my choice of springs, I have TDI, Renault dti (wich is basically a TDI with 11mm head) wich is stiffer, and after commons TD spring, I don't know with which one begin!
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Post by: vanbcguy on August 29, 2016, 11:18:05 pm
The TD timing cover is much shorter than the TDI one so the TD spring will be too short too.
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Post by: vic003 on September 04, 2016, 12:01:46 am
The tdi spring isn't a good choice?
The problem for the Renault is that is used in an electronic pump with n108 too.
Second problem, I have all my pump parts in a box and I don't know which one it is. Do you know the lenght of the Tdi spring please?
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Post by: vanbcguy on September 04, 2016, 02:58:12 pm
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Post by: vic003 on September 04, 2016, 04:26:36 pm
Actually I run with the Iveco one but designed for 2.5L low rpm engine.
What can I find in mechanical and adapted for same displacement engine?
In Europe I know the Fiat croma which is 2.0l tdim but nothing else in my mind.
And is there a shop where I can buy only the advance spring? I don't have money to buy complete pumps and hard to find em.
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Post by: vanbcguy on September 04, 2016, 04:31:24 pm
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Post by: vic003 on October 03, 2016, 10:33:03 am
I got a new job so my project got slow down as I'm at home only the week-ends.
As you sayed, the rover engine was set up to go to 4500rpm, my pump is for an engine wich run max 4000rpm so I think the timing doesn't match perfectly with TDI.
You didn't change anything on the timing of your LR pump? I know there are some hp to gain with the timing, it was an important mapping job on e-tdi.
So I still searching for the perfect spring and piston, maybe fiat 2L tdid.
I had to change my direction boots yesterday and I saw the frame part that link the 2 wheels together and support engine (sorry don't know english name) were bended and full of rust, so it's the job for saturday and I'm searching for an anti sway bar as all is removed!
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Post by: vanbcguy on October 05, 2016, 02:24:48 am
I talked to Goran (Dieselmekken) about my goals and told him what pump I was using. He didn't seem to think the advance would be a problem
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Post by: vic003 on October 05, 2016, 03:02:04 am
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Post by: vanbcguy on October 06, 2016, 04:34:49 am
Post by: vic003 on October 11, 2016, 03:53:28 am
Some pics of the week-end:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/adb4ff5f9bfdc0642fd9041629758136.jpg)
New subframe, reinforced and with anti roll bar.
And a gift for my little car:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/c79d8dbcc07e27d3e765211f80d8d7a7.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/44484860360f6c9c801b6defc585d487.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/471e30e7a429d9a835c88bccb467ef23.jpg)
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Post by: vic003 on October 23, 2016, 06:26:47 am
I actually run 25-26psi, light black smoke when full boost so I use all the o2 but the power output is low, I estimate 150 or 160 at the crank, low for 25 psi with k24, don't you think?
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Post by: vanbcguy on October 23, 2016, 02:50:56 pm
The worse the efficiency of the turbo the more restriction it needs to put on the exhaust to make the same pressure ratio too.
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Post by: vic003 on October 23, 2016, 04:33:54 pm
Unfortunately I can't measure intake temp, do you have a good Idea of temp sensor like this?
But the fmic I use is approx the same I used before and I always had good temps.
Of this is the turbo I'll get faster with a holset one. But in my head k24 could do lot better than 160hp.
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Post by: deepgrooves74 on October 23, 2016, 06:08:55 pm
You could also get a gauge that has two readouts on it pre-and post intercooler temperatures. That would tell you whether or not you were efficiently cooling the charge...
Then also ultimately and EGT gauge. I assume you have to have one of those already?
You have to forgive me if this is a stupid idea I haven't done this myself, but I have read things that showed good promise.
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Post by: vanbcguy on October 24, 2016, 06:47:42 pm
Remember the K24 shipped on engines putting out 68 HP and went in to production over 30 years ago. You're asking it to produce 2.5x the airflow it was doing in its stock application. Sometimes a little less boost will actually provide a little more power if the turbo is just generating a ton of heat and restricting the exhaust.
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Post by: vic003 on November 14, 2016, 05:08:17 am
So first, to answer you deepgrooves, the water-methanol injection seems good, but I would think about it only with a completely tuned engine, with a good reliability and nice power output. I didn't find the good tune already, so it's not a good idea to think about that now!
Let's talk about the K24, we won't have do talk about it anymore as he died tomorrow! On saturday, I drove back home, and the intake piping popped out on a hard acceleration, I think the turbo didn't love that instantly RPM increase...
Yesterday, on a hard acceleration too, I heard a big whistling noise with low power, thought about intake again but nothing, I think K24 has died!
Next week-end I'll check it, I've just buy a rebuild kit so I will make that tentatively cause I'm thinking about a Holset one! :D
I contacted Alcaid that advised me to go for a HE200WG, it's probably my next turbo, the only problem is that I didn't want to change mine so soon and it's a little expense I didn't plan!
Two weeks ago I bought a new car, so the golf is in stand by as I have a new toy! I took a Seat Leon Cupra, with the amazing engine of the new S3, the 2l TSI with 280hp. The only problem of this car is that contrary to the S3 and Golf 7R it's not a AWD, it's lighter and more reactive, ok but tires have troubles to transmit power to the ground!!
I'm thinking about next upgrade on it, bigger Alu FMIC, 200 cells cata and chiptuning, power will grow to 380hp and 500NM torque (approx 370ft/lb), this engine is a beast!
I just need to get money!
Post by: vic003 on November 15, 2016, 07:29:54 am
When I see the flow map of the k24 it's approx 20-23lbs/mn so it will do a 160-180 bhp, maybe mine wasn't capable to give more then 20lbs/min.
But now doesn't matter anymore as the new one will be 31lbs/min with a faster spool than K24! 8)
Post by: vanbcguy on November 16, 2016, 02:54:50 am
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Post by: vic003 on November 16, 2016, 04:08:57 am
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Post by: vic003 on November 19, 2016, 03:12:55 pm
I just put my k24 off and here is what I found
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161119/df15c6d7d44a5a14de0a9c9cc286d441.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161119/86bfad737defccb38b8eed55bf4c610d.jpg)
He's dead, but i had spare one with turbine dead and rebuild kit so I made a new until I get my k24.
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Post by: vanbcguy on November 19, 2016, 03:15:00 pm
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Post by: vic003 on November 19, 2016, 04:19:42 pm
New holset will be happy running at 30 psi!
The thing that's weird, I always had Garrett turbos before, and the the kkk had no shaft play compared to them, I still don't understand how it happened, but all compressor parts were worn, from wheel to backplate!
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Post by: damac on November 19, 2016, 10:49:53 pm
what injectors are you using?
i got an alh motor i want to make mtdi and i have rover 300 pump i want to leave stock. i want to start fresh with nice parts but just want bang for buck performance whatever that is, not looking to make a race car but i want to get good mileage.
Post by: vic003 on November 20, 2016, 06:07:07 am
Holset turbos he200 series are 650 USD inc. shipping from Alcais.
For the nozzles I'm running, these are french one from DSS 0.260 but probably want to go bigger in future.
In this configuration, with a 300tdi pump you can hope have 200 crank hp with just a modified LDA fuel cone.
I highly recommand to go with a stage 2 or 3 clutch, mine is XTD, not the best but do the job for the price!
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Post by: vic003 on December 02, 2016, 01:41:21 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/1c135eba45a1b20541cc0c1b39795491.jpg)
Very good quality abd shipping was very fast, Alcaid is top!
The only problem I have, he said me holset has T25 flange, so I bought a new t25 manifold, but my holset came with T3 flange...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161202/bbce63ea27c9cbb9510df7c8dd3ad807.jpg)
So I refilled the drills on the manifold with inconel and I would try to re drill like a t3 flange.
Flanges are the same for T25 and T3 manifolds from TA, the only differences is drilling. Hope it would work.
Envoyé de mon PLK-L01 en utilisant Tapatalk
Post by: vic003 on December 07, 2016, 03:59:12 am
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161207/096811357fdd98733913a1ae58f934eb.jpg)
This week-end I'll get my vband and my t3 flange gasket, so I'll begin to build my new downpipe and properly fit turbo on manifold.
The next steps will be the adaptation of the intake piping and build a bracket to support the turbo on the engine, I don't like it only hang on the manifold...
Thinking of a brand new IC piping, but I don't now where to fit it, the mk2 underhood isn't big!
Envoyé de mon PLK-L01 en utilisant Tapatalk
Post by: ORCoaster on December 07, 2016, 03:10:00 pm
Post by: vic003 on December 07, 2016, 07:03:51 pm
I would also be adding heat shield between that unit and the firewall. Otherwise things are going to get warm under the dash. Might get by with thin reflective shield or add to that with 1/2 inch metal deflector.Thank you for the info!
On my Seat I owned before, the gt2052 was very close too but never had issues.
But we are here to share and learn from other, I think it's a good idea to have a reliable and safe car!
Will search for that!
Envoyé de mon PLK-L01 en utilisant Tapatalk
Post by: vic003 on December 11, 2016, 04:40:18 pm
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161211/c3b8f4f416078d6527be861627942178.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161211/ab5ae58b2b4f4dafc5635ee8ae28e843.jpg)
Downpipe done!
The last thing to do is air piping and tuning!
The airflows at iddle is impressive for this little holset, way more than k24
And with more throttle in neutral it begin to create pressure, at something like 2000-2500 rpm!
Envoyé de mon PLK-L01 en utilisant Tapatalk
Post by: ORCoaster on December 11, 2016, 05:28:18 pm
Post by: vic003 on December 11, 2016, 05:34:56 pm
This one could be better!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161211/d9abc4976c8f380b28b04b7c3a12535a.jpg)
I should build a turbo support bracket!
Envoyé de mon PLK-L01 en utilisant Tapatalk
Post by: ORCoaster on December 12, 2016, 12:04:42 am
Post by: vic003 on December 12, 2016, 04:03:52 am
It's completely bend due to removing turbo many times.
The car isn't finished yet, but it's not my daily so I take my time too fix all little things...
I think I will put a turbo housing isolation from Cool it, less heat in engine bay and more heat to help turbo spooling.
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Post by: vic003 on March 29, 2017, 07:10:37 pm
Last mod on my car is a turbo bracket, modification of 1z bracket to fit the holset, I'll upload pic if it!
Anyone has info to build a homemade electronic boost controller for wastegated turbo? I think 300$ boost controllers are too expensive!
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Post by: vanbcguy on March 29, 2017, 07:13:49 pm
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Post by: vic003 on March 30, 2017, 02:08:40 am
If I can remember you have an electronic controller on your car, right?
Envoyé de mon PLK-L01 en utilisant Tapatalk
Post by: vanbcguy on March 30, 2017, 02:29:52 am
You could probably make something a little simpler...
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Post by: vic003 on March 30, 2017, 04:21:25 am
But sure, the system must stay a cheap part and I don't care for the time spend working on it.
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Post by: vanbcguy on March 30, 2017, 04:33:50 am
Ideally you're looking for an open wastegate during cruise conditions (reduced back pressure) and max boost with the pedal floored.
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Post by: vic003 on March 30, 2017, 07:14:42 am
Yes, seams a good idea to open wastegate when cruising, I must think about it.
I should use a vacuum controlled wastegate in this case instead of boost controlled.
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