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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: mcpook on February 17, 2014, 03:18:59 am
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Long time lurker here in the midst of a 1.6 turbo diesel build. I’ve owned my TD since 2005 and am finally feeling semi-competent. I don’t have much engine building experience. A 170 ford straight six back in ’97 and an air cooled VW in 2000. But I’m here to learn and have fun.
Rebuild goals are some more go power w/o sacrificing reliability. Willing to sacrifice some mpg, but don’t want to throw those out the window. Not a deep pockets build either, but I’d rather do it right once and have this engine for the rest of days. This is my sole vehicle so I’m not willing to push limits and risk being w/o wheels, but am trying to get performance with some hopefully safe modifications. I have to keep the reliability goal in mind as the performance temptation is tough to fight. ;)
I acquired a 1.6 TD hydraulic block code MF and head from brandonfast here on the forum back in May 2011. It’s been mostly sitting as I research what I need and purchase/prepare components. I think I’m ready to devote some time to finally putting it together, thus time for my first thread. Yee Haw!
Assumptions:
Block looks to be decked. Assumed it was cooked/hot tanked or equivalent. Freeze plugs looked new, so left them. Didn’t mess with the oil squirters either. Didn’t check bores or piston clearance. The oil pump shaft bearings and IM shaft bearings looked new. I bought new ones and didn’t install cause the ones in the block looked in identical condition. Any assumptions here that should be cause for concern??
Bottom end (done so far):
.5 over KS pistons
Total Seal piston rings (I think I sent TS a set of Goetz that they modified)
Stock rods
ARP rod bolts (104-6002 ? came with block)
ARP main studs (204-5402 ? came with block)
36 mm oil pump (113 011 0001)
Oil pan baffle
SCCH lightened and balanced IM shaft (thanks Justice)
ARP head studs
1 notch AAZ head gasket (piston protrusion between .65 (#3) and .79 (#4))
Paint
The oil pan is in a pile of other miscellaneous brackets awaiting powder coating. Will make some calls this week to find a local powder coater.
Some pics so far:
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very good, with the studs you should be able to push what you want. Longevity...gov mod, intercooler, bigger exhaust, oil cooler. That should do it with plenty of fun for you. An upgrade turbo like the ones alciad is selling or a vnt off of a TDI wouldn't be bad if you are up for building the controller for it.
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i think a mild port job and doing a passenger performance style intake is really beneficial too for more even flow between cylinders
as for porting, just cleaning up around the valve seats for a smoother transition and then going over the rest of the port to clean up the casting should make a noticeable difference.
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Dropped off the oilpan and brackets at the powder coater. Satin black. Stopped by pick n pull and grabbed an oil cooler setup from a Volvo 780. Will test the t-stat to ensure it functions, but hopefully one more thing to cross off the need list. Also grabbed a hood liner that looked to be in decent shape. Will spray it down with air filter cleaner, dry and spray with some undercoating to deter further deterioration and rodent nest pilfering. Also found a tailgate and rear bumper. Lucky day. But hard seeing a rust free diesel caddy shell in the yard awaiting the crusher. Should have saved it or at least grabbed the FN trans and instrument cluster.
A giles rebuilt pump and injectors are still in an unopened box as well as a G-Pop rebuilt Garrett T3 turbo from a Volvo D24. I probably should have gotten some forum guidance before going down that road, but at the time I thought it was the answer as it’s from a slightly bigger vw 2.4 TD. Thought my planned upgrades would put me in that ballpark. Maybe it’ll be fine, but I could have probably gotten a newer holsett or similar for less than I have in the core and rebuild.
The head is actually getting a complete upgrade.
1.6 TD hydraulic head (currently at Herbert Performance/Reno):
Port intakes and exhausts
Port intake manifold and gasket match to head (’86 cabriolet intake w/ modified G60 throttle body for intercooler piping connection)
Surface head (.0015ish I think)
Install tapered pins under the intake seats to repair cracks between valves
36mm x 97mm x 7mm intake valves (028 109 601D)
31.5mm x 97mm x 7mm exhaust valves (028 109 611G)
New precups (Eurocar Togliani #9476)
Techtonics HD Valve springs (#109 081S)
Techtonics 7mm retainers (#109 085)
Guides (037 103 419B)
Hydraulic lifters (050 109 309H)
Seals (027 109 675)
Keepers (021 109 651)
Dr. Diesel camshaft (thanks Justice)
Some pics of the yard goodies.
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You will like the aaz valves or at least that is the aaz valve diameter.
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Are those pics of the final assembly? The reason that I ask is that the bores look awfully cobby. You did just have this bored, did you not? You should be seeing a nice crosshatch, but all I see is radial scratches. especially on the bottom of the bores. You might want someone to take a look at the bores for you. Did you wash out the bores after honing? It looks like you have the telltale haze caused by honing grit still on the cylinder walls.
If you just broke the glaze yourself, you will need to go back in with a Flex-Hone and some lubricant to dial in some crosshatch. It looks like whoever did it just let a cheap 3 stone glaze breaker sit in one spot for a while without any lube to carry off the grit.
Also what did you polish the crank with? It should look polished. That one looks anything but. It is hard to tell with whatever grease is on the journal
Also the Plastigage appears more "squished" on one end than the other This can be from a little mis-alignment when you installed the rod cap or a bent rod. I would clean everything up and plastigage it again making sure that the rod is centered in the bore.
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Ya, that hone looks a little odd at the base doesn't it? Of course, some "people" here are pretty strange with their hone concepts (or lack of concept).
Well, myself, I am real big on new intermediate shaft bearings. Can you get ahold of the previous owner and make some inquiries...or the shop who did the work? Look, you want this to last...right? Figure out what the true story is on those IM bearings. There ain't no time like the present to take care of those. That has so much to do with oil pressure.
I would also be so curious as to how the tolerances were on the cylinder bores. Did they do it "right?" Or did they steal 20-30K miles with a loose bore? It would also take a few mysteries out of the break-in. If it's held to the factory clearances, I would not do the "break it in like you stole it" thing which seems to be popular here (to some folks).
Any sign of aviation sealer on the small soft-plug at the back (trans) end of the block? I've had those leak which necessitated pulling the engine and trans back out after initial fire-up. THAT tends to pi$$ one off a bit!
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the volvo turbo should be a good match, from what i have read it is a 50 trim t3, with a .36 a/r turbine housing, same turbo as i have built for my 1.6td. just be careful with how much boost you run, as lucas had a similar turbo that he blew up twice. do you have any detailed pictures of the turbo?
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I'll try to post some better pics of the bore. I thought the crosshatch looked fine while working on it, but those posted pics do make it look odd. Better pics may show it differently. I installed the pistons with a light coat of 10W-30 on the rings and bores. Obtaining clearer history on the block isn't likely. I recently e-mailed the previous owner regarding another matter and received no reply. Unknowns make me uncomfortable, which is why I listed all of the assumptions. I do not know what was done to the bores. I assume that since it needed the .5mm over pistons, that it was bored by a machinist. The best plan would be to load the block into the truck and have my machinist take a look at the bores, polished journals and measure the IM bearing clearances. Like I said I did buy new IM bearings but when I held them up to the ones in the block, they passed the eyeball test. Didn't measure and compare numbers though.
I appreciate the feedback and interest. Thanks.
I haven't cracked the turbo box. I'll post pics when I do. And about the pic thing: should I just paste them into the text box in order to get them to automatically appear in the post? Right now, I'm resizing to 800 x 600 and attaching them, but that's kind of a pain to click each one to view and scroll across the screen.
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Knowledge is power, dude!
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Talked to my machinist today and plan is to bring him the block for inspection later this week once the headgasket arrives. He said three notch. I told him I already bought a one notch based on actual piston protrusion numbers. I didn't factor in the shaving of the head though. (.0015ish") We'll test fit the head with the studs and 1 notch HG and some clay. Getting all arts and craftsy with it.
I'll check out the tranny end of the block for sealant. I remember seeing a small freeze plug looking insert. Is this the area of concern? Sealant used instead of the plug?
The valves are actually early TDI valves instead of AAZ. I've only seen one other place specifying use of TDI instead of AAZ and that was Techtonics site: http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_13_61_484_587&products_id=1724 Seems mostly I read of people using the AAZ. Machinist's measurements ultimately dictated the TDI choice.
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Most of the TDI stems I have seen are 7mm where the aaz had both 7 and 8mm stem choices. As long as they fit the lifter and guide they will be fine.
The shaving of the head makes no difference on the HG. The piston protrusion does.
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McPoop,
If you want to know the truth behind improper honing techniques and deglazing look up Chrysler of America's invention of "Superfinishing", and you will see that sheep who follow sheep, take the wrong route and shorten the life of the engine, and are the first to experience the need to oversize their pistons.
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Ya, good old Chrysler.
Single-handedly keeping the towing industry out of default for decades. You prove your own weak points when given enough rope.
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Ya, good old Chrysler.
Single-handedly keeping the towing industry out of default for decades. You prove your own weak points when given enough rope.
So do they break down due to honing or poor engine design, or poor electrics?
Maybe it's lost knowledge.
Maybe it's deliberate, after all what company wants to produce a product that outlasts it's warranty 5 fold?
Just how long can a modern 1000cc 100BHP TDI last?
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I am not sure why they fail, but it may be worth noting their longest lasting engines are made by another company
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Got my hone pics. #1 and #4 were wiped down before shooting. 2 and 3 au naturel. The crosshatch/hone looks fine to me. Will still have my machinist check for round.
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I suspect you are hosed. Whoever honed the block did not know what they were doing and did not have the correct tools.
Clearancing German pistons is unlike other engines. The numbers on top of the pistons tell you what the clearances should be. These piston tops DO NOT have all of the numbers. Any chance these are from Prothe? At any rate the piston to wall clearance is measured in a different spot on kraut pistons than others, so a guy who does lots of Chevies and Toyotas will louse up a German bore job. It is not uncommon to have a rebuilt MB motor make make more noise than before it was rebuilt.
That being said, your best bet is to rehone the bores to give you a good crosshatch (45*) and take you chances. The bores are likely already too big so the tiny amount of material that you can take off with a ball hone won't be noticeable. Maybe not even measurable with typical tools. You also have no guaranty that the bores do not contain lots of honing grit. You will need to scrub them with lots of hot soapy water to be sure.
IIWY, I would also break/grind off the cast flash in the crankcase. I would also break all of the sharp edges in there as well with a file or a Dremel tool. The casting flash could break off of its own accord and rattle around in the motor. Breaking the sharp edges reduces the amount of lint that is still in the motor on start up. Lots of flotsom and jetsom is visible in your first photos.
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Ya, good old Chrysler. Single-handedly keeping the towing industry out of default for decades. You prove your own weak points when given enough rope.
I gotta 1998 3.8 with 367K on the odo. Daily beater, engine all original, burns zero oil, starts first crank even at at subzero (F) temps.
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Whoever honed the block did not know what they were doing and did not have the correct tools.
Looks like they were honed with the pistons in? Bores #2 & #3 seem very shiny at the bottom.
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probably just the oil down there.
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So I took my block into my machinist to measure the bores and his measurements indicated that the pistons were too tight. Pistons are stamped 76.98 on top which equates to a bore of 77.01 (.03mm clearance). His measurements indicated I had about half that.
So I disassembled the block and delivered to him:
1) the block so the cylinders can be honed to the proper clearance
2) the de-ringed pistons so that he can measure the pistons rather than relying on the numbers stamped on the tops
3) the crankshaft to check journal measurements (which should be fine as I plastigauged them)
4) the rods to check length/straightness
5) the IM shaft to check bearing to IM journal clearance.
6) The oil pump to check oil pump shaft to bearing clearance.
I’ll supply him with the tolerances from the Bentley regarding the cylinder bores, crankshaft journal wear. Highlighted sections from pgs 59-61, 63 and 73 from the manual.
I don’t see any specs in the Bentley for the IM shaft or oil pump shaft bearing clearances. Does anybody know what these numbers should be?
Hopefully him removing .015mm from the cylinder bores doesn’t throw the piston ring gaps out of spec.
Sounds like in another week, the assumptions will be replaced with knowledge and worse case scenario, I’ll need new piston rings if the gaps are too big.
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Here’s a mock up using an old head with the new manifolds and turbo. Looks like a ½” thick inlet flange welded to the ex. mani should fix the clearance issues. The hot side clears, but the cold touches. Should take some measurements to make sure I’m not creating firewall clearance issues though. I ordered a T3 inlet flange off ebay today that was pre-drilled for M10 x 1.5 bolts. I’ll chase those through the ex. mani as those threads are currently 3/8” 16. I had to hack off some intake mani brackets, but still couldn’t attain the necessary clearance.
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It is tough to weld cast, I would just bolt it together and maybe run a gasket on the turbo and exhaust mani side. I think crazy andy used 3/8" but 1/2" would work too right in between the turbo and mani and it shouldn't get you into trouble on the firewall at all.
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could also flip the turbo, using a spacer is probably easiest tho, especially if you like how the turbo is oriented already.
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could also flip the turbo, using a spacer is probably easiest tho, especially if you like how the turbo is oriented already.
What do you mean by flip the turbo? Just flip it on end 180* so that you effectively reverse the hot and cold sides? That would put the air filter/intake on the driver's side which may work better and uncramp the timing belt fuel filter area. I like :). Only wild card is getting the exhaust past the shift linkage if it's on the passenger side.
Anybody done this and have pics/thread?
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yeah thats what i meant, check 8v turbo threads in the mk1 forum on vwvortex.com it's definitely been done many times. and most aftermarket kits like callaway had the turbo fitted this way.
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Trying to get some info on that intermediate shaft. I didn't realize the axial measurement is the only one offered.
When I have pressed in new inter bearings with my tool, I always used some assembly grease and worked to establish some spin with the aluminum pulley and end cap on the shaft. Couple times, they were a little tight. I just keep turning them and pretty soon, things improved. Make sure the installer got those oil holes lined up!
I would suspect a measurement of 0.002 to 0.005 inch. clearance. On one hand, there is some heat swell.....on the other hand, the rear sees oil immediately and the front a bit delayed (once running).
Does your shaft feel nice and pretty tight as far as fitting it in the bearings?....probably not that far.
The bore measurement is a bit "intriguing." Is this new guy using a digital bore guage? As annoyed as I sometimes get with driving these old cars....I always get a little excited when I see a brand new piston peeking through a fresh bore. Just something about it.
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Yeah I am with Dakotakid on this. If you have new IM bearings in your hand and the block isn't in the car, I would put them in. Unless you know 100% that the old ones are fresh. I would suspect the #1 oil pressure problems are directly related to these bearings. It is worlds easier to do with the engine out of the car.
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Found an old e-mail from the previous block owner stating that he did replace the IM bearings with new. Machinist thought they looked new as well. I'll sleep soundly tonight. Machinst did say a good rule of thumb as far as bearing clearances go is .001" for every inch diameter in journal size. That seems to land within the range that Dakotakid posted. He hasn't thoroughly measured pistons or cylinders yet. Next week.
While the block is away, I worked on the radiator fan assembly. I think this is off an MKIII Passat. Hacked a few inches off the bottom and then scabbed it back on. Not great welds, but every bit of practice helps. Two inch passes to try to minimize warpage. I liked that the assembly was slim toward the alternator, but in looking at my engine compartment, it looks impossible. Maybe an a/c alt bracket is the trick? I've read the 675mm radiator swap is doable in an MKI. I think the radiator will fit, just not the fan assembly. I'll e-mail GEE-BEE as I read he did the swap, but I never saw pics of how his fan assembly cleared. Hopefully the 675 also leaves room to pass 2" pipes for a FMIC.
Also worked on the crankcase breather system. Hopefully no more gunk in the intake and turbo. I didn't weld the 1/2" 90* barb to the block off plate yet as I want to make sure the barb is directing the hose on a clear path.
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Took apart the oil cooler sandwich plate to test the t-stat. The t-stat opened at the boiling point in a small can of water. That's right on as it's marked as 95* on the case. Drilled the holes a bit bigger, deburred, cleaned and reassembled. Still need to order a new gasket for it, but otherwise another part is ready for install when I get the block back.
Thinking next about flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I have a 200mm set that I can use, but I'm thinking a 210mm would probably be wise with this build. Options include:
1) Grab one off an '83 GTI at the local junkyard and mark TDC.
2) Talk to a machine shop about transforming the existing 200mm to a 210mm. I assume this is possible, but the bolt holes look like they may interfere. Has anyone done this?
3) Seek out an AAZ flywheel. Two-pin?
What would yinz do? I'm leaning toward option 1.
Pressure plate and clutch plans were for 16v PP and 24 spline 210mm clutch from Autohaus. Or is a kit from South Bend or similar worth considering? I am obviously not a clutch expert and would appreciate any advice the forum has.
Thanks
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It is tough to weld cast, I would just bolt it together and maybe run a gasket on the turbo and exhaust mani side. I think crazy andy used 3/8" but 1/2" would work too right in between the turbo and mani and it shouldn't get you into trouble on the firewall at all.
To answer the concern at hand, I used a 3/8" exhaust flange water jet cut from mild steel, ran gaskets on each side, adn used longer studs. It fits in a MK1 with plenty of room between it and the firewall.
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-gaskets-36/header-flanges-194/volkswagen-209/volkswagen-8v-one-piece-header-flange-1-2-mild-steel-2358.html
Good choice on the Volvo oil cooler; I had to go aftermarket since there are no Volvos of that vintage in the local yards.
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It is tough to weld cast, I would just bolt it together and maybe run a gasket on the turbo and exhaust mani side. I think crazy andy used 3/8" but 1/2" would work too right in between the turbo and mani and it shouldn't get you into trouble on the firewall at all.
To answer the concern at hand, I used a 3/8" exhaust flange water jet cut from mild steel, ran gaskets on each side, adn used longer studs. It fits in a MK1 with plenty of room between it and the firewall.
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-gaskets-36/header-flanges-194/volkswagen-209/volkswagen-8v-one-piece-header-flange-1-2-mild-steel-2358.html
Good choice on the Volvo oil cooler; I had to go aftermarket since there are no Volvos of that vintage in the local yards.
Thanks. I was planning on ordering a 1/2" turbo inlet flange from them to gain the clearance as theman53 suggested and running two gaskets and longer bolts. Dragging my feet with that order though, as I'm playing with the idea of fabbing a tubular exhaust mani ala the darkside developments offerings. It's a shame that Street Toys is no longer around. I dreamed of that cast iron ram-horn style mani they offered. That would be bulletproof and address those durability and cracking concerns I have with running a tubular on a diesel. Think I just talked myself into going with the spacer and calling it good.
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Got my block back from my machinist. He said he removed .001" at 1 inch down from the deck and about .0015" further down the cylinder as it had a taper to it, which was right in line with Toby's observations in his post. The piston ring end gaps are still within spec with the largest at .020" and the tightest at .014". I assembled pistons, rings and connecting rods. Pistons balanced to within .25 grams and assembled units to within 1.25 grams.
More junkyard goodies. 210mm flywheel from an '83 GTI and an intercooler from an '89 Chrysler Conquest.
The flywheel surface looked to be in good shape according to my machinist. He recommended roughening up the surface a bit with 120 grit. I didn't take a lot off, but rather just tried to roughen evenly across the entire surface.
My son is flying in tomorrow night to spend his spring break with me. I'm excited to have him here and I think he's excited to learn. He's 14 and right at that age where he is really interested in cars and whatever I can teach him, so we should have some fun and make good progress this week.
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Bottom end together for the most part. Ran into an issue with the oil control piston ring escaping the land and going into the cylinder all wonky. Luckily it was pretty obvious as the piston felt stuck. Replaced the faulty ring and achieved success on the second attempt. All pistons rotate smoothly now.
Also kept snapping off the front crankshaft oil seal flange bolts. Snapped two of the smaller ones when I tried torquing them to 15 foot pounds. Still not sure what's going on there? Ran down to the junkyard and salvaged some bolts for the rear seal. We'll see if that one goes easier.
(http://i.imgur.com/Uz8DMgK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZlNXnDv.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qjttJE8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/tANDutN.jpg)
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Also kept snapping off the front crankshaft oil seal flange bolts. Snapped two of the smaller ones when I tried torquing them to 15 foot pounds. Still not sure what's going on there? Ran down to the junkyard and salvaged some bolts for the rear seal. We'll see if that one goes easier.
Those bolts don't go to 15 ft-lbs, I don't recall the spec off hand but it is more like 7 ft-lbs. If I recall correctly there is one or two larger bolts on the flange, those have a higher torque spec (around 15 ft-lbs) but the others are all much less.
I did EXACTLY the same thing assembling my TDI a few weeks ago. Replaced them with new bolts from my FLAPS after we noticed it didn't feel right torquing up.
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MMMMMMMMMM, studs
(http://i.imgur.com/ZlNXnDv.jpg)
Wish I had done that just for the peace of mind.
Looking good.
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hm, prothe pistons?
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Also kept snapping off the front crankshaft oil seal flange bolts. Snapped two of the smaller ones when I tried torquing them to 15 foot pounds. Still not sure what's going on there? Ran down to the junkyard and salvaged some bolts for the rear seal. We'll see if that one goes easier.
Those bolts don't go to 15 ft-lbs, I don't recall the spec off hand but it is more like 7 ft-lbs. If I recall correctly there is one or two larger bolts on the flange, those have a higher torque spec (around 15 ft-lbs) but the others are all much less.
I did EXACTLY the same thing assembling my TDI a few weeks ago. Replaced them with new bolts from my FLAPS after we noticed it didn't feel right torquing up.
The bentley does say the crankshaft oil seal carriers are at 15, but I guess that's for the bigger bolt. The oil pan bolts were also at 15 and they are the same size bolt, so common sense was overruled.
Got the bottom end completely together. Had to remove the oil pump pickup tube temporarily to install the rubber gasket/baffle. But smooth after that.
Head is on. AAZ gasket. ARP head studs. Hylomar block and head and both sides of the gasket.
Have to order the engine mounts and press those in, so the build will crawl til that's accomplished.
Question regarding the oil level tube: I have what looks like an old aluminum washer on the tube. Is this really the correct seal? I found nothing in the engine seal kit that looks like a solution. Also, when installed, the hump is nowhere near the bottom--though it is in the recess. Normal? Thanks.
(http://i.imgur.com/VxZ1xBH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wiu9AIL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qPeX4XW.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9Jq4ACs.jpg)
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Washer on the dipstick tube is normal, it retains an oring in the bore.
Excellent pix, by the way.
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hey, what fittings did you use for the valve cover breather?
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Washer on the dipstick tube is normal, it retains an oring in the bore.
Excellent pix, by the way.
Sounds like I am missing an o ring then. Thanks about the pix. Glad I figured out the whole pic posting thing. Opening the attachments was less than ideal.
hm, prothe pistons?
Pistons are Kolbenschmidt from Autohaus.
hey, what fittings did you use for the valve cover breather?
Machinist welded a 1/2" FPT bung to the valve cover. Threaded in a 90* hose barb to 1/2" MPT 1/2" ID stainless fitting off of ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200508042570?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I probably could have just used the existing rubber valve cover grommet and 90*ed and necked it down from there, but I thought the stainless barbs were easier and cleaner.
The lower return was welded onto the block off plate.
The tee barb was also off ebay and is apparently a coke dispenser fitting. Coke Part# 16177 http://www.ebay.com/itm/151182655577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
(http://i.imgur.com/osG7sIa.jpg)
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I did similar, but I made a new plate and tapped it for the pipe fitting. If you have a leak around that area, don't immediately blame the gasket. Welds are sometimes hard to get leak proof without grinding the stops and starts...it doesn't look like he did, but if he welded both sides you should be fine.
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I did similar, but I made a new plate and tapped it for the pipe fitting. If you have a leak around that area, don't immediately blame the gasket. Welds are sometimes hard to get leak proof without grinding the stops and starts...it doesn't look like he did, but if he welded both sides you should be fine.
Yeah I probably got the idea from reading through your build threads. I'll run a continuous bead on the inside edge to combat oil leaks.
It took me a while to commit to motor mounts, but after some research I came up with the following plan:
- Front--Black Forest Stage one.
- Passenger side--1992 Cabby part number 171199214G (Meyle) from Autohaus (upside down man)
- Drivers side--1984 turbo diesel part number 171199214H (Meyle)
- Rear--1984 Turbo Diesel part number 175399151B (RPM)
Sound sufficient? However, I ordered the wrong drivers mount and got part #171199214D as pictured below. Should I roll with it? If so, which way is up?
Next is getting them pressed to the brackets.
(http://i.imgur.com/uCyCUeo.jpg)
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CRSMP5 is the guy to ask on all those mounts.
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They make 2 kinds vs the 4 originally... So get most $$$ one you can... Cheap ones will not last
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Summer's over and I am back in the garage. The engine mounts are pressed. Haven't ordered the front mount yet.
(http://i.imgur.com/0pEnUcd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/10K6PC4.jpg)
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Looking good!
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The alternator I pulled from an MK2 diesel jetta didn't quite fit as I'd expected. The alternator tabs/body prevented it from retracting into the mount recess.
(http://i.imgur.com/GllhR0O.jpg)
The belt pulley didn't line up with the water pump and crank pulleys either.
(http://i.imgur.com/jEcK5aa.jpg)
I found a new alternator from a 92 passat 16v that I pulled, hoping for a better fit. It has ear mounting tabs which are a bit unusual and a W terminal for which I have future plans. I mocked it up to an old alt bracket and adapted an mk2 toothed adjuster for it.
(http://i.imgur.com/wUDEWis.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iAqMxbO.jpg)
It also lined up a bit closer to the water pump and crank pulleys, but was still about 5mm off.
(http://i.imgur.com/zVCUv0c.jpg)
The local alternator shop swapped around the spacers and it's pretty close now. Not perfect, but should work.
(http://i.imgur.com/vNgzz8I.jpg)
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yup, exactly why i decided to get a reman of the same 65A alt rather than attempt an upgrade just now . . .
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Alternator is rated for 90amp, and seems to tuck up tight to the block to hopefully allow room for a longer radiator and dual fan assembly. Still have doubts as to whether the alternator will clear the dual fan housing.
Rummaging through the brackets I got back from the powdercoater, I found two which remain a mystery as to their application. The one on the left appears to be a gasser accelerator cable bracket, that got mixed in with the diesel parts. The one one the right has me stumped. Can anyone identify these or care to weigh in on their application? Thanks.
(http://i.imgur.com/GZyV3cz.jpg)
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I think the one on the right might have been bolted to the bottom of the injection pump and held the cruise control diaphragm. Total guess though.
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That bracket is the bracket that holds the turbo drain line to the block...
Hotlinked picture from: http://www.tomsebooks.com/newpoweroldcaddy.htm
(http://www.tomsebooks.com/images/vw%20067.jpg)
I think the one on the right might have been bolted to the bottom of the injection pump and held the cruise control diaphragm. Total guess though.
That bracket is a huge, curvy thing...looks like this
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/dedfrog/CCbracket.jpg)
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Keep an eye on that v belt once you start driving. It looks like you might have the wrong offset waterpump pulley...
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That bracket is the bracket that holds the turbo drain line to the block...
Winner. Thanks.
Keep an eye on that v belt once you start driving. It looks like you might have the wrong offset waterpump pulley...
Thanks for the heads up. I shimmed the waterpump pulley a bit to try to get it to align better with the crank pulley. It's still slightly off, but thought it close enough. You think it may cause problems? I may have another spare pulley to hack up and create a shim and see if it gets it closer. The alt pulley is the bigger misalignment offender, but not too concerned as I may need to address alt pulley size to fine tune RPM/tach. Still need to do the diesel cluster tach mod. Have a spare diesel cluster and a cracked screen GTI tach cluster as donors. I assume that I could transfer the working diesel/tach guts to a flawless GTI cluster shell once the marriage is successful.
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Using a round front clip to mock up the radiator/intercooler/oil cooler fit. First step was adding additional holes from a scrap clip to accommodate the 675mm radiator pins.
(http://i.imgur.com/MM7syWd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cThh4MD.jpg)
Next is figuring out the intercooler position, fitting it and mounting it. The pipe run length looks equivalent no matter which side chosen to plumb pipes. I'm electing to run both intercooler pipes on the driver's side as I think I'll avoid access conflicts and have a cleaner look. The intercooler needs some modification to the end tanks to make it work. Both pipes and the mounting tabs need cut and repositioned to work. Starting to question whether this intercooler is right choice.
(http://i.imgur.com/LXTMhUX.jpg)
The front clip middle support also needs cut and modified on one side to make enough clearance.
(http://i.imgur.com/OXKYSvg.jpg)
Oil cooler lines will run through the front clip and under the radiator.
Questions for the group:
Anyone have any install pics of MK1 starion/conquest intercooler install or experience from installing/modifying? I've searched and not found anything, despite reading about the intercooler quite a bit.
Since the intercooler tanks need modifying, should I upsize the existing inlet/outlet pipes from ~1 3/4" to 2"? I assume since the existing pipes are factory sized to the intercooler, they are big enough to not cause restriction. However, most intercoolers utilize at least 2" inlet/outlets. I don't want to needlessly upsize and cause lag though. Turbo pushing it is a T3 from a D24 Volvo Turbo Diesel.
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i'd go to the 2" outlets, personally though i'd probably ditch the starion intercooler and find one on ebay that is the exhaust size you would need, they're cheap on there, and then you can get exactly what fits.
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Merry Christmas everyone. About to head out to midnight mass, but thought I'd resurrect this post, since I am spending more time in the garage on the build. Spent the day in the garage getting reacquainted with where I left off nearly two!!! years ago. Measured hose length to get the oil cooler hoses, turbo oil feed and drain hoses fabricated.
(http://i.imgur.com/l15R9UU.jpg)
Polished up the VW logo on the valve cover. Started with 120 grit and progressed to 1000 wet sand before finishing off with Mother's.
(http://i.imgur.com/P2FGc2V.jpg)
Intercooler and piping routing was on my mind quite a bit today. The current intake manifold has the entry on the driver's side. Since the turbo is clocked, the air filter intake and turbo piping will also be on the driver's side.
(http://i.imgur.com/zDfwaxc.jpg)
This will result in all the piping on the drivers side and require a custom intercooler to be fabricated to accommodate that configuration (same side inlet/outlet). Cons could include some piping clutter and pricey custom intercooler.
Alternatively, I could change out the intake manifold for one that enters on the passenger side to accommodate a cheapo ebay intercooler. I'd have to plug some ports and weld a 1/6" NPT bung and then get it coated again. Cons are redoing some manifold work and pricey coating. Here's the candidate manifold.
(http://i.imgur.com/b5YyG0R.jpg)
Doubt whether one manifold would perform noticeably better than the other. Coated one currently installed is off of an 85 cabriolet. Really comes down to preference on piping routing and intercooler.
Think I'm leaning custom intercooler/existing manifold with understanding that the wiper fluid canister should be relocated to the passenger side to free up room for air filter/cold intake. maybe battery too. Should double check to make sure the pipes will clear the frame/radiator as it is definitely tighter squeeze on drivers side. Drivers side would give the shortest piping length and less bends.
Thoughts on manifold and intercooler dilemma?
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No idea, but I ran my intake over top of the other intake all on the passenger side
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After fabricating and installing the oil drain tube, I discovered that the clocked turbo alignment (with the exhaust to the passenger side) is not jiving with the drivetrain.
(http://i.imgur.com/cF5jL1Vh.jpg)
So, had to figure out another solution. Here's what I came up with. ARP turbo stud kit 400-8009 are just long enough to accommodate a 1/2" spacer at the exhaust manifold, which allowed the unclocked turbo to just clear the intake manifold. Oil drain tube should not interfere now with the passenger axel.
(http://i.imgur.com/0vMWrpLh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Dn7yktFh.jpg)
Does it clear the firewall though??? I hope :-\. Measurements point to it clearing, but we'll find out for real when I drop it in the engine bay. By worst fear is some component not working with the firewall, shift rods, steering or axel.
Meanwhile:
Turbo oil feed tube is being fabbed. Ordered a cheapo ebay intercooler. Need to order the coolant hoses now and get a better dial indicator to set the timing, but will have to remove the engine from the stand and bolt on the flywheel and clutch. Want to replace some transmission seals while I have that out. Anyone know which seals should be replaced? Hate to have the tranny leaking oil.
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nice to see an update, looks like you'll be driving it soon.
for the transmission seals you definitely want to replace the 2 input shaft seals (one around it and one side of it for the push rod)and the brass pushrod bushing inside the input shaft. the axle cup seals, shifter seal and clutch arm seals are more optional, but while its out u might as well spend the little bit of money and time on seals, much easier than if you have to change them later in the car
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Thanks for the trans seal info. I finally got all those mentioned trans seals replaced. Thanks to Brian (BrokeVW) for the seals/boots and detailed instructions on how to replace. The pressure plate, clutch and flywheel installed pretty easily. I roughened up the pressure plate surface with 120 grit sandpaper before bolting up.
(http://i.imgur.com/jA4yIR5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/J96DUwU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eteGMe5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aJkz72h.jpg)
The last pic is to remind me that TDC is actually the yellow dimple and not the machined V since this flywheel is out of a GTI.
Mated up the trans and engine. Set timing belt tension to 13 and timing to 0.95. Tensioned the v belt and installed the valve cover.
(http://i.imgur.com/tWcF0UD.jpg)
Have the short shifter, linkage and weighted rod at the powdercoater. Think the engine is done though. Seeing just a glimpse of light at the end of the tunnel is really energizing. Onward to fitting the intercooler, rehabilitating the shift linkage, new brake booster and brake lines throughout and single round front end swap.
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Looking good!
I totally know what you mean about that "light at the end of the tunnel" feeling...
Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk
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While that engine and flywheel are accessible you should file a notch and paint it so in the event that paint you have on there gets covered or worn off you still have the proper alignment mark to find five years from now.
I would even go so far as to paint the first black to hide it. And the one you want bright red or white.
Just a tweak
Edit:::::
Dang didn't roll down the pictures far enough. You have it buttoned up. OH WELL, got a Dremel tool?
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so did the gti flywheel still have a tdc mark, or did you find that yourself?
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The flywheel does have a mark for TDC, it's just not as prominent as the V notch at 6* BTDC, hence painting the dimple/peen yellow, posting and writing. Hopefully one of those actions will remind me in the future. Techtonics has a better picture and description here: http://techtonicstuning.com/timing.html
My flywheel matches picture #2 on the Techtonics page.
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i have one which looks like the second picture as well, but it is way, it seems like its 180* out.
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Getting back into this and hopefully life won't pull me away this time. Added a block heater while the freeze plugs were accessible.
(https://i.imgur.com/7UU1sqil.jpg)
Shoehorned the intercooler in front of the radiator and slipped on the silicone elbows. The grill and inserts clear and install cleanly. Will consider the single round clip complete and ready to swap.
(https://i.imgur.com/SiHBBx9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9E8oscol.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VshoqhEl.jpg)
Ordered hood struts from Black Forest and making a running list of other items needed for the intercooler piping and intake. Next steps is turning the wrench on the truck and removing the engine, front clip, shift linkage and brake system and rebuilding.
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Major progress today. Got the old engine pulled!
(https://i.imgur.com/IhiJfQMl.jpg)
Upgraded the negative battery cable while I had grounds disconnected. Think this was pulled from an MK3. Positive was done some time ago.
(https://i.imgur.com/UsRhYZSl.jpg)
Also noticed that the windshield washer bottle had a bunch of cracks and leaks, so rounded up a newer one.
(https://i.imgur.com/pGLFn92l.jpg)
Need to pull the exhaust downpipe, brake system, and shift linkage for upgrades. I've decided to pull the WVO system as well. I've run the vehicle for over 10 years on veggie oil with trips all around the west. But a new engine paired with losing my veggie oil supplier 2 years ago were the deciding factor.
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Removed the exhaust downpipe. Upgraded the steering rack bushings to prothane poly. Scraped and wiped down the oily grime buildup with super clean.
(https://i.imgur.com/cTmo8zA.jpg)
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Pulled the interior bits, the dirty carpet and worn underpadding in preparation for soundproofing, new pad and carpet.
(https://i.imgur.com/SonzlBbl.jpg)
Will also rewire the gauges so it's not such a rats nest.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZgfXM76.jpg)
Cutting the sticky glue and pulling out the carpet.
(https://i.imgur.com/zCEykAM.jpg)
I have lots of scraping of that sticky glue. Maybe a heat gun will help release it. Then scrub it down with water and dawn. Prep with alcohol before installing the soundproofing. I'm torn whether it's worthwhile to try and straighten out the floor. There are some humps from getting raised on the lift I suspect. Those will likely return with the next tire purchase or wheel alignment.
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I like the seats, and steering wheel. But even more I want to know if you did the door panels? Seems like they are much better than stock. What's the secret?
I would straight the floor and warn the tire place that there are specific places to put a jack under the car. If they don't do it right on my car it pops the fender flares and those are not easy to fix. Fiber glassed on and body filler to smooth into fenders. Custom install. They generally get the message.
I would also take apart the shifter while it is accessible and inspect, clean and lube. So much easier now than when the carpet goes back down.
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I like the seats, and steering wheel. But even more I want to know if you did the door panels? Seems like they are much better than stock. What's the secret?
I would straight the floor and warn the tire place that there are specific places to put a jack under the car. If they don't do it right on my car it pops the fender flares and those are not easy to fix. Fiber glassed on and body filler to smooth into fenders. Custom install. They generally get the message.
I would also take apart the shifter while it is accessible and inspect, clean and lube. So much easier now than when the carpet goes back down.
Thanks for the shifter rebuild tip. I'll add that to the list. I did the panels myself to cleanly fit speakers in the doors. Used the 5 1/4" speaker pods, and arm rests from a '92 cabriolet. I think the metal inner handle pulls were out of an old ghia spotted at the junkyard. The door cards are thin masonite (1/8"??), quilt batting, the grey vinyl and some new plastic fasteners. I used the existing cards as a template to mark all the holes. I can't remember what glue I used to secure the vinyl to the backside of the masonite. The key is to keep the cards thin; if they get thick, they interfere with the window cranks and make it impossible to reinstall the remote mirror trim. The other tip is to install the pods and pockets as low and forward as possible to provide window crank clearance.
Spent some more time cleaning out the old soundproofing/padding.
(https://i.imgur.com/Cs5ozPj.jpg)
Almost ready for new soundproofing and padding.
(https://i.imgur.com/i83oHuL.jpg)
Finished the shift linkage rebuild under the truck. Used the MissingLinkz teflon bushings. Can't wait to connect the shift rods to the tranny.
(https://i.imgur.com/rUFD0yP.jpg)
Also started to address the holes a younger me cut for the WVO system. Correcting sins of the past? Story of my life it seems...
You can see where the tank was mounted and a hole cut to pass the WVO and coolant lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/kvMZQ2w.jpg)
Routed them through the subframe of the cab.
(https://i.imgur.com/ieISbVe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lVqwLqf.jpg)
The firewall hole was poorly placed under the rain tray drain and was a source of leaks to the cab. Luckily, I live in the most arid state in the union and floor rot hadn't gotten a foothold yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/kBVTAJ5.jpg)
Ordered some new carpet and padding from Newton. Next: Prep and weld in patches. Prime the bare metal. Straighten floor humps. Wipe all down with alcohol and install soundproofing. Swap out the pedal cluster for '88 scirocco pedals to allow upgrade to 22mm master cylinder. Rebuild the shifter base. Then put the interior back together and move on to the brake system.
Looking for front GTI fender flares and an MK1 scirocco shifter if someone has extras they are willing to sell.
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Thin on the door cards is right. I purchased a Caddy and the previous owner spent considerable coin on getting the seats and door cards done with this nice thick quilted pattern. Had to admit it looked great. But the window cranks wouldn't turn there was so much extra padding behind them. Even when they did there was this trim piece, sort of a rope or bead that would be caught every half a turn. I finally had to source out some stock cards and clean them up.
All is well now.
And your shifter under the car still has the boot around it! Or is that new?
Don't see many of them as they get torn up easy. Well on brushy roads they do.
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And your shifter under the car still has the boot around it! Or is that new?
Don't see many of them as they get torn up easy. Well on brushy roads they do.
Shifter boot is new. A pine cone or mudflap iceberg may take it out, but it was an available part that may keep some road grime out of the shifter base for a bit. I was able to locate an MK1 Scirocco shifter shaft. My existing shifter base lost a few plastic tabs when I disassembled it to clean, lube and swap in the rocco shaft, so I rebuilt it with an '84 GTI base. The rocco should bring the shift knob a bit closer to the driver so that I'm not reaching to get it into 5th.
(https://i.imgur.com/CJLqSxe.jpg)
The 16V scirocco pedal cluster arrived, so I cleaned it up a bit and removed the existing cluster. 16V on left.
(https://i.imgur.com/E4uXUpD.jpg)
Finished up with welding in the hole patches.
(https://i.imgur.com/JRC5lga.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mZewkM1.jpg)
Added some bondo to the firewall and bed patches. I ordered a few cans of slate grey touch up paint for those areas as well as for color matching the GTI air dam. I'm not the greatest at body work, but after some sanding and glazing, those should blend in nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/7lI3k9Q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4tIxL7D.jpg)
Started to clean up the old glue and prep for the new soundproofing. Got the bunkhead cleaned and the CLD tiles installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/jbKvpwQ.jpg)
Next: Remove the rest of the glue and old soundproofing, Prime the bare metal. Touch up paint the patches. Straighten the floor humps. Install New soundproofing. Install new carpet. Install the 16V pedal cluster and brake booster.
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Heat gun and putty knife removed the majority of the old soundproofing.
(https://i.imgur.com/JDKZX57.jpg)
PB Blaster and putty knife removed the remainder.
(https://i.imgur.com/8YK6qUX.jpg)
Wire brushed and wiped down with acetone for two coats of POR 15 rust paint.
(https://i.imgur.com/aSJDTJD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vurtJX5.jpg)
Ready for the CLD tiles and soundproofing.
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CLD Tiles installed. Sound Deadener Showdown recommends 25% coverage.
(https://i.imgur.com/lPEBI9k.jpg)
Building the mass loaded vinyl layer.
(https://i.imgur.com/XvW0Kz1.jpg)
I ended up with 4 sections--bulkhead, rear, driver/tunnel, and passenger. Closed cell foam was glued to the bottom MLV sections. Seemed to work well gluing them flipped upside down and propped with boxes, buckets and towels to mimic their natural contours. MLV/CCF layer installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/BVIMJUr.jpg)
The carpet form Newton was meant to be installed over the stock padding.
(https://i.imgur.com/3SgeLzw.jpg)
Mine was not in good shape, so this product from Summit called Boom Mat under carpet lite seemed an adequate substitute.
(https://i.imgur.com/PEknyso.jpg)
Carpet installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/oYPvIxl.jpg)
The scirocco 16V pedals went in really smoothly. Brake booster was pulled from a '90 cabriolet and will accept a 22mm master cylinder.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y1a8pC0.jpg)
Interior mostly back together. Carpet samples #8078 (large square) and #827 (small square) included for comparison to the Newton grey.
(https://i.imgur.com/9D3srZM.jpg)
On to the brakes.
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That's looking great man! Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Started on the brakes today. The brakes I ordered from Summit Racing came with carriers, calipers and pads, so I ended up returning the carriers I previously ordered from Parts Geek. Centric Posi Quiet Loaded Brake Calipers 142.33036 (drivers) and 142.33035 (passenger) The calipers looked nothing like the picture on the Summit website, but were refurbished Girling 54s.
(https://i.imgur.com/9VY6Rygl.jpg)
Loaded a drill with a wire wheel to prep for paint. 3 coats of black caliper paint. While those dried I pulled some 256mm rotors from the local junkyard. Hit the rotors with some 120 grit sandpaper to knock off the surface rust and clean them up.
(https://i.imgur.com/S9UYF01l.jpg)
On to the brake lines and master cylinder.
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What! No bright red or yellow paint on those Calipers?
How... How
Normal. Good job.
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What! No bright red or yellow paint on those Calipers?
How... How
Normal. Good job.
Yeah. I figured the red paint would cut my stopping distance in half and put me at risk of whiplash.
I worked on the brakes today. New hardlines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve/fronts. I bought the hard brake line kit from MK1 Autohaus. It was easy to work with and bend. There's definitely an art to making the lines look good. Fell well short of that, but at least the nuts aren't rounded off. The front and back brake hoses looked original and needed replaced. That and a new master cylinder with different entry points led me to replace the hard lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/UmbCbeZ.jpg)
New passenger hard line. Also installed some adhesive heat shield while I had the firewall clear. No AC, so anything to help keep the cabin cool.
(https://i.imgur.com/zsd0zaq.jpg)
Bubble flare.
(https://i.imgur.com/PSTGwyf.jpg)
New brake hoses.
(https://i.imgur.com/jiOteGC.jpg)
Not sure why the original lines had the curly cues in them, but I mimicked them on the new lines by wrapping it around a 36mm deep well socket. The pictured master cylinder is just for mock up and will be replaced this week with new. Does the new master cylinder need bench bleeding? Or can I install dry and bleed the entire system?
Ordered some mandrel bends for the exhaust and intercooler piping. I still have to replace the rear brake hoses, install the clutch cable, but otherwise I think I'm ready to slide the engine in.
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I like to bench bleed the MC just so I know that it has fluid going into all the lines like it should. Once those rear lines are on it takes awhile to know if fluid is going to the brake or not. Many pedal pushes for the wife for me. I don't have a Mighty Vac to assist in that process.
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Not to hijack the thread but if it is of any interest I had a friend of mine cobble together what is essentially an electric mity-vac. It uses the motor from an electric airpump with 2 lines going to a sealed mason jar, one being the line to the brakes and the other the line to the air pump. I can bleed the brakes by myself in less than 10 minutes. I can shoot some pictures of it if anyone is interested
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and then you use the Mason jar for a celebration drink right?
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I can shoot some pictures of it if anyone is interested
I'm interested in pics of the vac pump mason bleeder. Details on what pump you used would be great too.
I almost finished the brake system. Replaced the rear brake lines and installed the new bench bled master cylinder and reservoir.
(https://i.imgur.com/VMcepdh.jpg)
Installed the engine by sliding it in the engine bay and lifting from below. Seemed to work ok.
(https://i.imgur.com/GLYpfgU.jpg)
Noticed a couple fitment issues that will likely need some modification. Turbo to air intake is kinda tight near the fuel lines and the passenger front brake line. Brake line should bend down out of way pretty easy, but those fuel lines will need to be relocated methinks.
(https://i.imgur.com/GGMPtUh.jpg)
The alternator mount bolt circled in red threads through both lobes of the alternator and likely will hit the subframe when I try to remove it. I'll likely just deal with a re-engineering the next time it needs removed.
(https://i.imgur.com/x1lXHq9.jpg)
The axle may clear the oil return line, but it looks close. Axle installation day will shed more light on that.
(https://i.imgur.com/I3Hoo7J.jpg)
The most troubling thing I discovered was a pile of aluminum shavings by the lower crank cover. There were more shavings, but I wiped the easily accessible away before photo documenting. I am not sure what caused those shavings but there was definitely some binding I discovered maybe 6 months ago when I tried to manually turn over the engine that I attributed to letting the engine sit too long and perhaps developing rust in the cylinders. Now it's apparent that it was not rusty cylinders causing a difficult revolution, but binding from somewhere around the crank seal plate. The plate may have been from a later model gasser that I assumed would match up. Something obviously didn't clear--although after pushing the crank to and fro for an hour, it spins free now. Anyone encounter a similar issue? I will pull the lower cover to investigate further where those shavings are originating and whether it merits addressing.
(https://i.imgur.com/DFR8OIq.jpg)
Engine is installed though and that feels like a big milestone. Hooking up and adjusting shift linkage, drive train, clutch, wiring and cooling system will resume after Memorial Day.
(https://i.imgur.com/Vq6dtdG.jpg)
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To route the fuel lines forward could you not just run them with a 90 degree bend along the frame support and get them to come up in front of the passenger strut housing? Then do the filter in the space there to the fender. I am looking at something like that for my Caddy intake as well. Filter has to move to make room for big rubber hose. And the air filter.
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Been awhile since I posted. Got the truck back from the fabricator who welded up aluminum intercooler tubing, intake and fabbed a 2.5" stainless downpipe.
(https://i.imgur.com/ERAbv2E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9sC8oF0.jpg)
Figured out that the stock ground location on the transmission mount is shoddy, so grounded directly yo the trasnsmission. Starter now turns over easily.
2 problems that I am trying to troubleshoot.
First is fueling. I primed the fuel filter by removing the small screw atop the fuel filter housing and topping off with ATF. Primed the injector pump by removing the inlet banjo bolt and topping with ATF. No fire and no visual verification of fuel being drawn through the clear inlet fuel line. Any ideas/tricks to prime the fuel system?
The second is a bit more baffling and worrisome. I filled up the coolant and slowly been tracking down the leaks and tightening down clamps to fix. Thought I had them all addressed, when I noticed another pool on the garage floor coming from the turbo/passenger side.
(https://i.imgur.com/GnpDf7h.jpg)
It appears that the turbo is leaking coolant. I don't think this is supposed to be a water cooled turbo.
(https://i.imgur.com/3JUoiCj.jpg)
You can see the rust on the mild steel spacer between the turbo and the exhaust manifold and water dripping from the waste gate. Any ideas on this one? I'm really stumped as to where the leak could be coming from and how to fix it. There is no coolant visible above the intake manifold, so I don't think its the freeze plugs in the head. Thanks guys. I keep thinking this thing is close to roaring to life.
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I remove the OUT Bolt and fill it to as high as I can. That gets more fuel into the pump as it is higher than the inlet bolt you used. You can draw fuel into the pump by putting a vacuum on the line going back to the fuel tank and that will generally get you most all the air out of the IP. If you still have no draw then I would suspect the vanes are stuck inside the pump and not doing their job.
As for the coolant leak, check the freeze plugs on the back of the block. Weeping down to the turbo from them I suspect.
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Still not sure on the coolant leak cause, but will continue to keep an eye on puddles neath the truck and coolant levels.
Got the injector pump primed. Fired up, but smokey. Sounds better and less smoke when cold start pulled, so will adjust the timing before test drive and break in. Right now I have it timed to .95. Will move it to 1.00 and see how it sounds/smokes. I have read that for break-in, it's best to drive at 75% of full load on the engine. How do you effectively "run the engine at 75% of full load" on the road? I was planning to drive it around the hilly/mountainous terrain near my house. And vary the RPMs and go pedal during the break in. I have some cement pavers that I could put in the bed, but I imagine that driving the engine under load means something different. What is an effective way to run it 75% of full load? Thanks.
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What you plan to do with the hilly drive will do the best job. If you want bricks for passengers, conversation might be lacking, but I wouldn't overdo it. It would simulate two peoples weight and load. 75% load could be thought of as 3/4 pedal travel. Just take it easy on it for a while, I know you want to know the full potential but that will come soon enough.