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Topics - Rabbit79

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IDI Engine / Printed circuit repair
« on: January 22, 2017, 02:36:13 am »
Has anyone ever attempted to repair the printed circuit that goes on the back of the dash instrument cluster? If so how did you do it and how did it hold up? Mine has a break in one of the conductors and I was thinking I might be able to solder a couple strands of wire in there, but I'm afraid that thing might be a bit too delicate to withstand the heat of a soldering iron. So if you have a better plan..... let me hear it. 

General / The MK 1 and EMP surviveability
« on: November 07, 2016, 12:19:28 pm »
So I was reading an article the other day about something called electro-magnetic pulse, or EMP. What I found particularly scary were the consequences of an EMP attack on North America. I'm certainly no physicist or anything like that, but, as I understood it, when you detonate a nuclear bomb at very high altitude, like 150 to 250 miles, it sends out a Gamma ray burst that will induce a voltage spike of about 50 volts into basically everything that will conduct electricity. According to the article, if the terrorists or Chinese or whoever wants to attack us, explode the bomb over Kansas or the Dakotas, about 2/3 of the U.S. would be effected, from the Rockies to the Appalachians, down to North Texas. Canada would be less effected due to something about the earth's magnetic field causing the effect to be less intensive to the North. As I understood it, most standard electrical components, like wiring and switches and stuff like that won't be bothered by this, but it would pretty much fry every circuit card it hits. Now what has circuit cards in it? These days, pretty much everything. As far as automobiles go, it would pretty much kill everything with electronic ignition or any kind of computerized engine control. Point style ignitions on gasoline engines and diesels without computer control would probably survive. This got me to thinking about the old V-dub. All you need to run is the shut-off solenoid in the pump. I don't know if the solenoid would get baked by the pulse, but a guy could probably rig up something manual if you had to. I haven't checked to see if the wiring for it runs through the circuit card in the fuse box, but if it does that would be pretty easy to wire around. So, as an end result, if you have a MK 1, you might be the only person for miles around with a car that still runs. As far as I know in my little town there are 3 other MK 1 diesels, another Rabbit (which I owned at one time), and 2 Caddy's. The 4 of us might see pretty heavy use as a taxi service. hehe. Not trying to be a harbinger of doom or anything here, but I did find this stuff kind of interesting. Plus it gives us MK 1 owners another good reason to hang on to them. hehe.

User's ride Wall / The 79 Rabbit of Rabbit79
« on: February 04, 2015, 02:26:43 pm »
I know she ain't much to look at, but here is the old 79 Rabbit.... Genuine made in Germany. I acquired her in 1996, traded a Ford Tempo straight across to a guy who had kids and wanted something bigger (I only paid $800 for the Tempo, so I guess you can call that the acquisition price). It's got a 1.6 N/A in it. I'd had a gasoline Rabbit many years before and liked it so I figured this would be a good rig for a daily driver, especially when you consider that pickup behind it has a 460 in it. Then when I discovered what great mileage it got, I figured I'd keep her going as long as possible. An engine re-build in 2011 and she's still going strong.

IDI Engine / Booster full of brake fluid
« on: July 12, 2014, 09:40:22 pm »
So I was driving home the other night when a dog ran out in front of me and I had to throw on the binders really hard. Seemed like they grabbed just long enough for me to miss the dog and then the pedal went right to the floor and bam... no brakes after that. Nursed it home and took the master cylinder off and what has happened is I jammed on the brakes so hard the rod from the booster blew out the innards of the piston in the master cylinder. The end result of all this being I now have a booster full of brake fluid (well, about 1/3 full). I can't say that I really know a thing about the boosters as I've never worked on one and everything I've ever read about them says to just replace them if they go bad. So anyway my question is this: Does getting brake fluid in the booster ruin it? I was thinking I'd try to dump as much of the fluid out as I can, then put it in the solvent tank and squirt it out as best as possible with solvent then let it dry for a few days. Or would it be better to use something milder like soap and water? Or am I just wasting my time and need to get a new one? Suggestions? Opinions? Comments?

Troubleshooting / Vacuum pump diaphragm failures
« on: June 02, 2013, 11:47:14 am »
All of a sudden the old Rabbit is eating vacuum pump diaphragms. I've went through 3 in about the last 2 months. The first time I just changed the diaphragm... lasted a couple weeks.... 2nd time new diaphragm and check valves... that lasted about a week... 3rd time another diaphragm and it lasted about a week again. Is there any common problem that causes this? I've been getting the parts from NAPA, which I'm sure is all made in China stuff (but then what isn't these days), could it be I'm just getting sub-standard parts?

IDI Engine / Break in and head bolts
« on: March 17, 2011, 03:29:46 pm »
Well the old Rabbit will be ready for its first start up in a day or two, and I've been mulling over a few things about breaking it in and the final torque on the head bolts. In reading the threads about breaking in, the prevailing opinion seems to be to put the motor to work right away and not let it idle too much. So..... my current plan is to get it started, then jockey the throttle back and forth to keep the RPMs varied until I get it up to operating temparature, then shut it down to do the final torque on the head bolts, and then go about a full break in procedure. Is this the correct way to go about it, or am I off base? Any suggestions appreciated.

IDI Engine / Tensioner stud question
« on: February 06, 2011, 02:48:54 am »
After getting my head back from the machine shop I noticed they'd taken out the stud for the timing belt tensioner. I didn't think much about it at the time but now that I'm finally getting around to putting all this back together I can't remember which way the stud goes back in, or if it even matters. Anyone have a head laying around with the tensioner pulley off that they can look at real quick and refresh my memory?
Here's what I've got:
You can see from this picture I've got more thread to one side of the stud than the other.... I don't know for sure if that's how it's supposed to be or not. The only picture I can find of one is in the Haynes manual and it shows it being threaded equal lengths on both ends, with a much larger smooth portion in the middle. This could just be a home-made job that someone put in there at some point in the cars life, although it has worked just fine in the 14 or so years that I've owned the car.

So do I go with option 1:

Or option 2:

Any and all help appreciated

IDI Engine / A question about rod bushings.
« on: January 01, 2011, 03:49:22 pm »
84 1.6 N/A
My question is just exactly how tight on the wrist pin do they need to be? I have them honed out to the spec recommended in the Bentley (4 ten thousandths), and I can press the pin in with ease, but when the pin is in it's so tight I can't move it from side to side. Now thinking ahead a little bit when I go to hook the rods to the crankshaft shouldn't I be able to have some side to side movement so I can line them up correctly with the rod journals? That could be accomplished by tapping them with a rubber mallet I'm sure, so I guess what I'm basically asking is that how it's normally done, or do they need to be loose enough to move them by hand? Any input appreciated.

IDI Engine / Did I screw up?
« on: December 18, 2010, 11:49:34 pm »
84 1.6 N/A. I was putting in my IM shaft bearings today and on my first go with the rear bearing I didn't get the oil hole lined up quite right, so I pulled it back out and re-installed with the oil hole lined up correctly. I was wondering if it will hurt anything having installed this bearing twice. It did seem to slide in easier on the second go round, and I'm wondering if these are a one time use thing like so many other VW parts are. Will it be susceptible to spinning having been run through twice like that?

Parts for Sale/Wanted / F/S set of 5 Starrett 436 mics
« on: May 01, 2010, 07:40:37 pm »
I have for sale a set of 5 Starrett model 436 outside micrometers. The sizes are:
The 3 smallest have locks and ratchet stops. The 2 bigger ones are a little older and don't have locks or stops. The 3 smaller ones are in excellent condition. The 2 bigger ones have a little rust on the thimbles but not too bad. They all check good against the standards and function fine. The 5-6 does have a little hitch in the thread but it doesn't affect it's accuracy or function.
I'm asking $190.00 US for the whole set.
I only accept payment in gold.

OK not really....I just thought I'd throw that in there to see if I could get a 'WTF!!??' or two. If you're interested e-mail me and we'll see what we can work out. My e-mail is on my profile, just make sure you let me know why you're mailing in the subject line or you might get deleted. I'll probably leave them on here for a week or so and if there's no interest it's off to e-bay they go.

IDI Engine / Save the crank I say!!!! Thoughts?
« on: April 30, 2010, 01:37:40 am »
1984, 1.6 NA, JK engine code, in the midst of a re-build.
Well I took all my stuff in to the machine shop today to get all the machine work done, and they didn't want to have anything to do with my crank. The crank mics out within tolerances, but one of the rod journals was getting close so I thought I'd just go ahead and have them grind it so I'd have a nice clean crank when I put it all back together. Also in my original plan was to have them cut another slot for the woodruff key that holds the timing belt drive sprocket, and this is where we ran into differences. The original slot is wallowed out past helping, but I was thinking I could cut another slot 180 degrees out from the original, and it should work fine, since it doesn't really matter where it is on the crank, just that it doesn't rotate on the shaft. Am I off base here? He also said he thought the sprocket should be a press on fit. I do have to admit there is some axial play when you slide the sprocket on there but that goes away when you put the bolt and washer on hand tight. I don't recall seeing anything in the Bentley about that, and the Haynes doesn't say anything either (sorry I left my Bentley with them in case they wanted to use it for reference). If I have to get a new crank that's just how it goes sometimes and it's no big deal, although it would keep my costs down somewhat if I can save it, and I'm of the opinion that it can be saved. Thoughts? Comments? Opinions? All are welcome.
I'll try to get a picture in if I can figure it out.

IDI Engine / A Boring Question
« on: April 17, 2010, 07:11:32 pm »
I'll start out by saying that this is my first foray into re-building one of these VW engines. I've been a Ford V-8 guy up to this point in life so some of this German engineering is, literally, a little foreign to me  haha. Anyway here's what I've got....79 Rabbit, I was told by the guy I bought it from that the guy HE bought it from put a motor out of an 84 into it. So I have the 1.6 NA in there. Long story short the key-slot on the crank for the timing belt pulley wallowed out and I slipped time so now I'm in the midst of an engine re-build.
Now here's my question.....In reading through my trusty Bentley manual I see the part about the honing group code which is supposed to be stamped on the block. As best as I can make out from the picture it should be on the left front????, but I can't seem to find it anywhere on there. Now according to this there are 3 different dimensions that the cylinders were bored to originally. If I decide to bore it won't the machine shop need to know the original bore diameter as a baseline to start from? The rings and pistons I've looked at all say .020 and .040 over. Are these oversize based on original dimensions 1, 2 and 3, or is there just a fixed dimension that they want you to bore to for the oversize rings and pistons? I kind of have a hunch that if I buy a set of oversize pistons they'll just say "bore to dimension X", but, I've never had to get a block bored before, so this is new territory to me. Any help would be aprreciated. Thanks.

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